Winston Churchill Memorial Trust Fellowship...Thatchers AGM in March 2010. Henk is a very...
Transcript of Winston Churchill Memorial Trust Fellowship...Thatchers AGM in March 2010. Henk is a very...
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Winston Churchill
Memorial Trust
Fellowship
Joseph William Wykes
6th
June to 27th
June 2010
Premature Decay on Roofs
Thatched with Water Reed
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Contents
Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION Page
Itinerary 4
Aims of the Fellowship 5
Background 5
History 5
Chapter 2 ABOUT THE JOUNEY
Holland 7
Belgium 25
Germany 30
Denmark 41
Chapter 4 CONCLUSIONS 54
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Itinerary
06/06/2010 - Fly from Leicestershire to Amsterdam (East Midlands to Schiphol
Airport).
Host Henk Horlings
.
11/06/2010 - Drive from Nijkerk to Gooreind-Wuustwezel in Belgium.
Host: Ludo Ibens.
12/06/2010 - Antwerp, Belgium to Lubeck in Germany by eight trains and one bus
Host: Tom Hiss.
14/06/2010 - Lubeck, Germany to the Isle of Rugan East Germany by car.
Host: Ole __________.
15/06/2010 - Rugan to Norddeich North Germany by car.
Host: Hans-Herman Ohmns.
16/06/2010 - Norddeich to Risum-Lindholm North Germany by Train.
Host:Sonke Bartlefsen.
17/06/2010 - Risum-Lindholm to The Island of Aero in Denmark by car then.
ferry.Host:
Morten Petersen.
18/06/2010 - Aero to Odense in Denmark by ferry then train.
To meet Jorgen Kaarup Jenson.
21/06/2110 - Odense to Arhus in Denmark by Train.
Host Ian Reybekill.
24/06/2010 - Arhus to Dianalund in Denmark by train
Host: Uwe Becker.
26/06/2010 - Dianalund to Copenhagen by train.
27/06/2010 - Copenhagen to Kastrup Airport by train. Stanstead to London
by plane and onto Cambridge by car.
Host: Charlotte Wykes.
28/06/2010 - Cambridge to Leicestershire by Coach. Leicester to Barwell by
Car.
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Aims of the Fellowship
To visit to Holland, Belgium, Germany and Denmark, in order to gain an understanding
of all aspects of European thatching. To compare designs, constructions, methods,
materials, ideas, techniques and problems with those in the UK and attempt to identify a
recent trend in premature decay (soft rot), which is different to normal decay (white rot)
that is affecting thatched roofs across the continent. To understand European Thatching
through a commonsensical approach.
Background
I started Thatching in the late eighties, having trained at the Thatching Advisory Services
in Berkshire, where I bought a franchise. The normal way of becoming a Thatcher was to
get a Master Thatcher to set you on as an apprentice, but because of my age (39) this was
never going to be possible.
Hence, this was a unique way of becoming a Thatcher, but never the less a very
successful one developed by Bob West, an entrepreneur who was in my opinion
responsible for the upsurge in thatching during the 1980s and 90s in the UK.
After starting my own business in 1990 I went on to became a successful Thatcher in my
own right and was awarded second place on two occasions in the Best Thatched House
Competition. Unfortunately my role as a Thatcher was ended prematurely due to a
serious back injury and open heart surgery.
I acquired an enormous amount of experience and knowledge during my time thatching
and felt that I wanted to give something back to the thatching industry. From my own
experience, I was aware of a problem affecting European reed. When I heard about the
Churchill Fellowship, I considered that this was an ideal opportunity to contribute to the
trade that had given me so much.
History
In general terms roofs thatched in water reed are expected to last 50 to 60 years. Some
roofs recently thatched with European reed are failing prematurely, causing this figure to
be re-evaluated to 40 - 50 years. But even this estimation would now be speculative.
The performance of roofs thatched with water reed (Phragmites australis) is again causing
concern amongst Thatchers. To a certain extent the causes of early degradation in thatch
are understood and are well documented. In the middle of the century premature decay
amongst home grown reed was at its height, this lead to Thatchers abandoning so called
Norfolk reed which in turn evoked funding for a University of East Anglia project to
examine reed quality and the impact of nutrient levels and management techniques on
reed quality and decay (Bateman et al 1990).
Premature decay was first reported in the 1950s, but was foremost on straw roofs. In the
1980s the University of Bath showed that patches showing „premature decay‟ were
decomposing differently from the normal process of Basidiomycete-medicated (white rot
fungi) decay that turns organic matter into compost.
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Many investigations have been carried out, regarding the structure and strength of water
reed, in an attempt to understand what effect nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorous and
potassium have on the reed, in particular by Haslam in Cambridge and a group of
German researchers (Haslam 1972). Young and Davies (1990) established that thickness
in the stem walls (sclerenchyma and parenchyma) was associated to the growing regime
environment, affected by farming practices in particular the use of inorganic fertiliser.
Researchers in the 1990s looking into patchy soft rot decay
on straw roofs, believed that because there was no evidence
of this on water reed roofs, there was no link between the
nitrate concentrations in dead stems and decay. It was
thought that high nitrates levels contributed to a general
speeding up of the natural rotting process over the entire
roof, rather that the patchy soft rot that we are now seeing on
water reed roofs.
Initial visits to the reed beds in Norfolk and in particular
Martham broads demonstrated that poor reed bed
management results in inferior quality reed entering the
chain. We know that reed quality can vary dramatically
across a reed bed and the diligence of the Reed Cutter is necessary to prevent poor quality
reed entering the industry. Water levels play an important role in making sure that the
reed beds filter any pollutants but high water levels can result in water stagnating and
affecting the quality of the reed.
Research carried out trying to understand the correlations between the growing
environments and the durability and strength of the reed proved very difficult to ascertain
in laboratory conditions, so a more subjected approach is now favoured to use
comparisons of which we know are good samples. Reed grown on slightly brackish sites,
where nitrogen levels in the sediment are low and where potassium levels where high are
found to have the strongest stems.
Investigations carried out by the University of Bath to ascertain what properties present
in the reed and in the growing environment, concluded that nitrogen present in the dead
reed stems did not affect the strength of the reed. The authors did however hypothesize
that it is the ratio of nitrogen to potassium that influences the sclerenchyma content and
thus the strength. When nitrates levels rise in the reed beds as it often does in reed beds
flooded by waters drained from farmlands, the development of woody tissues is
depressed. Ammonium irons and potassium compete for uptake sites within the reed and
the fact that reed beds favour the retention of ammonium irons, which are a major source
of uptake of nitrogen for a reed plant. This activity results in the potassium and lignin
synthesis being depressed leading to weakened stems. The retention of these irons could
be a result of poor or uneven water flow over the reed beds caused by inadequate reed
bed management.
Me on Martham Broads
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The Journey Begins
Sunday 6th
July Amsterdam & Nijkerk
The first day of my Churchill fellowship began today with a flight to Holland to meet
Henk Horlings. We met at Schiphol airport in Amsterdam after a short flight from East
Midlands Airport.
I have never flown into Amsterdam before and the flight over Holland approaching the
airport was quite amazing. I have never seen so much water in one place before. There
below was a network of canals, rivers, dikes and open water, most of which is fresh
water. I was informed that most of Holland is below sea level, and water levels are
constantly managed so that the country doesn‟t flood.
The consensus of opinion is that if global warming has its way that Holland will
disappear one day.
I have heard people say that Birmingham has more canals than Amsterdam; on this
evidence I find that hard to believe.
On the drive out of the airport it was very obvious how flat Holland is. The main roads
have been elevated to prevent them from flooding and require enough sub structure to
them to stop them from sinking. The sub soil is made up of mainly clay and in some
places sand in order to give the roads a good foundation they build them on top of
Polish car tyres.
I had met Henk before in Andover England at the National Society of Master
Thatchers AGM in March 2010. Henk is a very charismatic guy, full of enthusiasm for
the thatching industry he represents. I couldn‟t help but be impressed by Henk‟s
knowledge of thatching; he is probably one of the most knowledgeable non Thatchers I
have met. He was dressed in shorts and a tee shirt as he had just spent the weekend on
his boat, of which I was to learn much about and later enjoy a short, late night sail.
Henk and his wife welcomed me into their home in Nijkerk where I was to stay for a
few days and hopefully gain an interesting insight into Dutch thatching and the Dutch
way of life.
Henk and his wife live quite simple lives, which surprised me a little. I expected their
standard of living to be higher and the comfort of their home to be better. Their house is
about the same standard as an English estate house built in the 1970‟s. The front and
the back gardens were quite small, again equivalent to what you would find on most
new houses built in the UK. The lounge was L shaped with the kitchen placed at one
end. I got the feeling that the way of life in Holland was very compatible to that in the
UK and that we had a lot in common. The room that I was given used to belong to their
eldest daughter who now lives with her boyfriend. The room was of a decent size and
there were a lot of wardrobes in the room but no room inside them.
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Nijkerk is a municipality and a city in the middle of the
Netherlands, in the province of Gelderland with a
population of 38,879 (Jan 2007). The name Nijkerk stems
from Nieuwe Kerk (Dutch for New Church). This new
church was built when the old chapel was destroyed by
fire in 1221. Nijkerk was strategically located between
the Duchy of Guelders (Dutch: Hertogdom Gelre) and
the Bishopric of Utrecht. Because of this strategic
location Nijkerk regularly was the scene of war, and in
1412 the village was completely destroyed. It was
restored and Nijkerk received City rights in1413. In 1421
the church that gave Nijkerk its name burnt down and
was replaced; this happened several times, until a new
church was built in the 18th century which still stands
today. The organ in this church was built in 1756.
In the 18th century Nijkerk was a flourishing merchant city. Several inhabitants
traveled to the New World, such as Arent Van Curler and Kiliaen van Renesseler and
founded new cities.
Since World War 11 Nijkerk has grown fast. It lies on the border of the Ijsselmer which
allows for transportation of goods via ships, and the intersection of two major
motorways, the A1 and A28. This allowed local industries to grow, and also caused a
lot of people who work in the nearby Randstad to move to the quieter Nijkerk. Also the
easy access to the Veluwe is a contributing factor to this growth.
Amsterdam is the Capitol and largest city of the Netherlands, located in the province
of North Holland in the west of the country. The city, which had a population
(including suburbs) of 1.36 million on 1 January 2008, comprises the northern part of
the Randstad, the sixth-largest metropolitan area in Europe, with a population of around
6.7 million.
Its name is derived from Amstellerdam, indicative of the city's origin: a dam in the river
Amstel. Settled as a small fishing village in the late 12th century, Amsterdam became
one of the most important ports in the world during the Dutch Golden Age, a result of
its innovative developments in trade. During that time, the city was the leading centre
for finance and diamonds. In the 19th and 20th centuries, the city expanded, and many
new neighborhoods and suburbs were formed.
The city is the financial and cultural capital of the Netherlands. Many large Dutch
institutions have their headquarters there, and 7 of the world's top 500 companies,
including Philips and ING, are based in the city. The Amsterdam Stock Exchange, the
oldest stock exchange in the world, is located in the city centre. Amsterdam‟s main
attractions, including its historic canals, the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum,
Stedelijk Museum, Hermitage Amsterdam, Anne Frank House, its red-light district and
its many cannabis coffee shops, draw more than 3.66 million international visitors
annually.
The conversation throughout my journey home and during the meal was peppered with
talk about thatch and rapid decay. Henk has formed a lot of opinions about this subject
over the years and although he is not a Thatcher he is convinced of his views and they
The Church at Nijjerk
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are widely respected. However, I am not the only Thatcher who finds it difficult to
work out what is conjecture and what is fact regarding his views.
One of the theories that I brought with me about rapid decay, is that bad practice among
Thatchers and reed producers is mainly responsible for the problem. One of the ways I
intended to prove this was to give out questionnaires to as many Thatchers and reed
producers as possible. Henk‟s concern about this was that he didn‟t think that Thatchers
would be honest enough in their answers, because it would reflect badly on their
companies. I suggested it could be made anonymous but I later found out that the
Federation is very protective of the market in Holland and would guard against any
proposals or bad press that could undermine confidence in the thatch.
Henk had a full week planned for me, starting with a day in his office to see how the
Dutch Federation of Thatchers operate and how they became such a powerful
organisation in Dutch Thatching. He had also planned visits to properties with roofs
with known problems and to spend a day on site with a team of Dutch and Hungarian
Thatchers. Then on the last day a visit to the training workshop where they teach young
people how to thatch.
Monday 7th
June
Today I visited the offices of the Vakfederatie Rietdekkers, (The Federation of Reed
Thatchers) in Holland, where I was given the most informative talk on the history aims
and objectives of the organisation. The Germans ran the Federation from 1926 up to the
beginning of the war. They had total control over the Thatchers who could not buy reed
unless they belonged to the Federation. This organisation in its early days would be a
far cry from what it is today.
Henk as been in charge of the Federation I believe for the last 13 years and in that time
he has totally transformed this organisation and turned it into a professional and
efficient business. Part of Henk‟s remit for the job was that due to a lack of funds; all
projects had to be self-financing. Money required for projects had to be generated from
ideas and promotions, a suggestion that in the end would transform the Federation and
promote thatching in Holland to a new modern era. It changed the Federation into a
powerful authority who govern their trade without interference from bureaucrats or
government agencies.
In the beginning mostof the Thatchers of the Federation and members of the board told
Henk that he would be limited to what he could achieve, so his appointment was
greeted with a lot of negativity. He had to do battle with the Thatchers who made up the
board or executive, until eventually out of necessity the board agreed to some of his
wishes.
His first target was to have a web site. The reason he wanted a website was because
more and more builders and architects were asking for information that just wasn‟t
available anywhere else. This was in the early days of the Internet when hardly anyone
knew what the Internet was let alone a website. Henk‟s agenda started to gain support.
Prior to his endeavours he conducted a questionnaire, where he asked surveyors;
architects and builders, what they knew about Thatch. The results showed that only two
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of the people questioned knew anything at all about thatch. Because they had no
knowledge of Thatch they were giving out the wrong information and instead of
helping people to build Thatched houses, he found out that they were effectively putting
them off.
I think a similar situation exists here in the U.K. where architects do not know where to
go to get good information, this is born out by some of the horrendous designs we have
to thatch.
The website proved to be the catalyst in the Federation‟s future. The web site was born
28th
September 1997 and by using modern technologies and reforming to become a
professional and responsible organisation, the Federation went from strength to
strength.
They started to offer a service and information that was truthful and honest, even if it
was a little uncomfortable at times. The website has now grown into a very
comprehensive site with 4000 visits a month and over 25,000 pages viewed. This year
(2010) they are going to spend 25,000 euros revamping it. www.riet.com
As interest in the website grew, so the Federation‟s reputation among builders and
architects began to gain respect. Thatch was being used more and more in Architects
designs, so more effort was put into selling Thatch. As a result the Federation started to
exhibit at building fares and trade shows, getting allied companies to sponsor the cost
of their stands. This ability to put Thatch on sale in competition with other building
materials has worked very successfully for the Dutch. Most Thatchers in the UK would
love the opportunity to see their product considered in the same way as it is here,
competing on equal terms.
One of the immediate affects of having a successful web site was that Henk was able to
open negotiations with insurance companies and offer them advertising space. At first
no one was interested, but as soon as he had secured the services of one company all the
others wanted to join, but by this time it was too late for all the others.
These developments were now starting to affect Thatchers in general in Holland.
Architects only wanted Thatchers from the Federation to work on their projects. This
had the immediate effect of alienating any Thatchers who did not belong to the
Federation, who very soon realised where the future lay. Consequently Thatchers
started to join the Federation in numbers.
This was also seen as a good time to ease the financial situation and increase the
membership subscription, by three fold to £700p.a. This would have been a massive
increase in subscriptions for UK Thatchers but given the benefits and incentives that the
Dutch Thatchers were receiving its no surprise that no one voted against the increase.
One of the big problems that face the thatching industry is fire. In order to get
authorities to give permissions to build new thatched houses they have to comply with
building regulations. This usually includes restraints as to how far you can build or
extend from a boundary. In most countries in Europe this is usually around 10 to 12
metres. By introducing a successful closed roof construction model, that was very good
at preventing the spread of fire the Dutch managed to get these restrictions reduced
down to 3 metres. This would be similar to the Dorset Model in the UK, set out to give
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developers guide lines for building new Thatched houses, good at preventing the spread
of fire. This in itself is a major factor for the consideration of Thatched developments,
because it enabled builders to construct more properties closer together.
With the acceptance of their closed roof construction it opened up opportunities for
companies to sell fire retardants to the Federation Thatchers, with a percentage mark up
going to the Federation. The Federation has a captive market and they use this
opportunity to their advantage by promoting products that have a financial advantage
for them.
Another example of this policy was high lighted when a German thatch owner
published information on the web about a killer mushroom, which was affecting his
roof and that was going to destroy all thatched houses. This publication had a
devastating affect on public confidence regarding Thatched Houses. Together with the
German Federations the Dutch had to act quickly to restore confidence. They had to
pay scientists in three places to conduct scientific tests to prove that the mushrooms
were not new, or of a killer species. There was no money for this program and it wasn‟t
fair to expect the members to fund this investigation. The benefit would be for all
Thatchers, non-members alike, so they persuaded the company who makes and supplies
screw fixings to add 1 or 2 percent to the cost and pass the extra revenue gained onto
the Federation. This was done and the case was successfully won and the miss
information removed from the Internet.
Could this be a way of tackling English Heritage or funding the NSMT? I wonder?
The development of the Federation and the role Henk Horlings has played in that, has
meant the Federation has gained the respect of builders and architects alike, even to the
point where Henk is now called upon by judges as an expert witness in court cases.
The Federation exercises strict control over its members. If one of the members has a
complaint of poor work against him, then the member has to pay the Federation to go
and visit the property and verify who is at fault, at the cost €125. If a non-member has
the same complaint against them, then they have to pay more. They also give advice to
Architects and builders at the same cost. It appears that they are answerable to no one
and are regarded, rightly or wrongly as the authority on thatch, such is the total
domination that the Federation wields.
One of the main functions that the Federation has implemented is to vet all the work
carried out by the members. Peter, another non Thatcher, who just a year ago was
working as a kitchen salesman, is now employed by the Federation to carry out this
work. He visits completed works, to ensure they come up to standard, so they can
receive a certificate of worthiness. For this the Federation charges a standard fee to the
Thatcher of €125. In some cases where the thatch does not come up to standard they
can order the Thatcher to re-thatch. Once again I found myself wondering how such a
directive from a non Thatcher would be received here.
There are now some big thatching companies in Holland and they use a lot of foreign
labour, Hungarian, Lithuanian and Polish Thatchers. Geographically they are better
placed to employ these people, but the main reason they are here is because of the
demand. The Federation has turned Thatching into an everyday product here,
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competing with tiles and slates on an equal basis; it does not have the luxury status that
it achieves in the UK.
I am passionate about thatch and to see what the Dutch have done with their inventive
contemporary designs and structures makes me wonder whether we could ever do the
same here. They don‟t just build the occasional new Thatch; they build whole estates
and projects on a massive scale. They even have a Thatched Fire Station for heavens
sake.
The fact remains that the Thatching industry in Holland has gone from strength to
strength, where in the UK the industry has stagnated. The main difference between the
Dutch and the English is that in Holland the Thatchers Federation is the accepted voice
of reason, self determined and self regulated. They have the freedom along with
planners and designers to develop their industry and drive it forward. This has evolved
from having a proactive organisation that provides benefits for its members and as the
power to protect its craft against the bureaucrats.
I would like to think that we could emulate what the Dutch have achieved here in the
UK, but I have my doubts. When I expressed my doubts to Henk he was quick to point
out to me that it was like that in Holland before he started. He reminded me that Thatch
was in decline here fifteen years ago, now it has increased by 15%. He also reminded
me of a massive project that was started in Holland in the 1990‟s by Bob West of the
Thatching Advisory Service‟s. He was given the contract because there were no Dutch
Thatching Companies big enough to take on the project. This made me think and realise
just what Bob West did for Thatching in the UK in those years. Thatching in the UK in
the 80‟s and 90‟s was in a renaissance, made possible by affordable insurance and fire
barriers, very similar to what is happening in Holland today. Bob was leading the way
but now thanks to an army of agencies stunting initiatives the new build programme has
fizzled out, just at the time when the new buzz word is sustainability. Well there is
nothing more sustainable than a thatched roof.
This afternoon before I visited any Thatched properties I asked Henk to give me his
understanding and experience of how and why rapid decay is occurring.
The Dutch have done a lot of research into the subject of rapid decay. I believe they
have the most knowledge about the subject but they also have most problems and
because the Federation has a vested interest in keeping the industry buoyant, they have
spent the most money trying to find the cause.
If there is only one thing you can say about Henk, it‟s that he is totally convinced about
his theory that high heat and moisture content in properties leads to rapid decay. In the
UK we call it premature decay but I think their description fits better. Because when
you look at a roof that is suffering from rapid decay it‟s just as if time has been speeded
up and the whole roof has rotted away as normal but much quicker.
Henk‟s theory about is:-
That excessive heat and moisture in a property rises up through the building, passing
through the floors, ceilings and roof space, permeating any membranes and fire barriers
and finally entering the Thatch, cooling and forming condensation when the vapour
reaches the outside of the Thatch. Later, in the drier months the top layer of thatch
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would dry out, leaving a damp area somewhere in the middle, which would never dry
out. The roofs that I have seen in the UK certainly fit this description, but moisture tests
taken at the time didn‟t confirm any excess of moisture in the middle layers, so I remain
sceptical about this idea. I asked Henk if he had prescribed any moisture tests to prove
his theory, he said no.
I would like to call it something else other than a theory, but without firm evidence to
support it I can‟t.
Some of the thinking behind this theory was noted during the building of new houses.
Builders started to seal houses during construction, therefore trapping vast quantities of
moisture in the building before completion. Double glazing and doors were fitted well
before the construction was finished. Instead of allowing properties to dry out naturally
all measures were taken to ensure the house was kept sealed.
To look for circumstantial evidence to support the theory when a property is visited
notes would be taken of:-
Was high temperature when the door was opened?
Was there under floor heating with the combination of dogs?
Were there washing machines or tumble driers in the bathroom?
Did the occupants dry their washing on the landing?
Did the occupants open the windows?
I was given one example of a Thatched house that was performing perfectly alright
when suddenly after a change of owners, it started to show signs of rapid decay. The
property was visited and the cause was determined to be that the new owners had dogs,
and where the dogs were kept there was under floor heating, the dogs were continually
knocking over the bowls of drinking water, thus causing moisture to rise through the
house. I was a little sceptical of this kind of example because that would require an
awful lot of water to be spilled to create this problem.
I have listened to Henk at length but when I ask for the factual evidence to support his
theory, in my opinion there is only conjecture. However, I do believe that this idea does
have a contributing factor on how a thatched roof performs, but is only one of many
factors that lead to a Thatched roof failing prematurely. Henk also agrees that it is never
just one factor alone that causes the early degradation of a thatch.
I woke this morning at 6.30 after a night of broken sleep still feeling a little
uncomfortable with my surroundings and still wondering how I was going to cope with
3 weeks of travelling. I found yesterday very tiring listening to Henk and his relentless
talking and bombarding me with information. He is very much the teacher and I the
student and although I am 7 years older than him. I wasn‟t alone in this thinking as
most of his colleagues found empathy with me as they had been subject to his intensive
talks. The diet of the Horlings household is very unusual; they don‟t eat bread or cereals
in the morning. Henk usual breakfast was eating the leftovers from the previous day‟s
evening meal and his lunchbox was packed with raw vegetables, peppers and
courgettes. I love bread and I told Henk that bread was the staff of life and tonight I
would have to visit the local supermarket and make sure I have some fruit bread and
cereals to get me through the week.
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Tuesday 8th
June
Today I accompanied Henk on a grand tour of Overijssel (Dutch Low Saxon:
Oaveriessel) a province of the Netherlands in
the central eastern part of the country The
province's name means "Lands across river
Ijssel".
To the southeast, the province's surface is
mostly sandy, interspersed with small rivers
such as the Regge and Dinkel and other
brooks. In the northwest, the geology is
dominated by sediments from the wetland.
The highest point in Overijssel is the summit
of the Tankenberg, a hill in the municipality of
Losser, at 89 meters (295 ft). The lowest point
is in the Mastenbroek Polder near Kampen at
2 metres (6 ft) below sea level.
We traveled around these parts on a fact finding
visit to look, listen and learn about the problems
facing Dutch Thatchers, especially those regarding
premature decay in water reed. On the journey I
was also able to compare traditional thatched
buildings with modern constructions to see how
they have changed and if the changes have had a
detrimental affect on the life span of a thatched
roof.
I also met up with as many Thatchers as possible to
ask them their opinions about the problems facing
the industry at the moment.
I saw many examples of thatch deteriorating at different rates. I wanted to see how the
style and design of the roof here affected the longevity of the reed.
As well as looking at the construction, I wanted to see how the Dutch thatch, their
methods and techniques and to ascertain how and why some deteriorate more quickly
than others
The first place we visited was a thatched
holiday village (Putten. Park Royal) which
consisted of 35 chalet style buildings all
thatched at the same time all with the same
reed and all by the same Thatcher. This was
the first of a number of these parks I was to
visit on the same theme. The buildings had
low roofs with very shallow slopes but they
were in the open and not by water. I was told
that the thatches on this site were about 15
years old and already some of them had been
redressed. The Dutch have a way of repair and
redressing that I was to see in more detail later in the Day.
Province or Overijssel
Putten; Park Royal Chalet
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Next on the itinerary was Veluwse
Hoevengaarde, Holiday Park of 120
buildings in a similar style to those at
Putten with a mixture of artificial
thatch and natural thatch. It was
strange to see these artificial thatches
in the midst of traditional thatches, but
they were probably the best examples
of artificial thatch that I have seen.
Several attempts were made to
introduce this concept into the UK but
apart from a few examples in theme
parks and zoo‟s this idea was never really accepted by the thatch owners - they wanted
the real thing.
Then onto Ermelo, here we saw some very
big thatched houses with very steep pitches
and long eve to ridge measurements. This
style was contrary to what I have seen and
have been led to believe so far about
thatched house in Holland. The picture on
the left could almost be a photo of an
English thatched house, apart from the
tiled ridge which is almost universal here.
I have already mentioned about some of the radical
contemporary Dutch designs that I have seen in
presentations and magazines, well now I was going
to see a development for real and although rather
monstrous, I couldn‟t help but be impressed by the
shear scale of the project. Even Henk called it
ridiculous. This was the first time I had seen vertical
thatching. The place was “Nunspeet De Bunte” a
popular tourist‟s site because it is surrounded by
woods and holiday resorts, with the town center
located around the main market square.
Nunspeet is situated on the shore of the (Veluwe
Lake) which makes it popular for water leisure.
There is also a small lake called "de Zandenplas"
which is a popular holiday resort.
After two hours of Henks rather manic driving we stopped for a coffee break at a place
called Elborg (Old Castle in English). Henk was trying to make sure I did not miss
anything and would be driving at times on the wrong side of the road with his head
hanging out of the window pointing to this thatch and that thatch and telling me about
the local geography at the same time.
15
This medieval town remains largely unchanged and now relies on tourism for its
popularity. We had a coffee and some apple cake which is a custom in Holland and one
I chose to repeat throughout my stay inthe Netherlands. Each time it was a different
variation of the same cake and was always shared by birds, landing on the table to
nibble the crumbs.
After coffee we had a
stroll through the town to
the harbor - it seems like
nearly all the towns in
Holland have harbors,
there down by the harbor
we saw a man named
Deetman, who was
wearing clogs and
making rope in the
traditional way.
Later in the day we passed through a place where some of the locals still dressed in
traditional costume. The traditional costumes and wooden shoes that The Netherlands
are often associated with are hardly worn these days. Generations back wooden shoes
were more in use as a cheap alternative to leather shoes. Nowadays they are merely
worn by farmers if they prefer them to rubber boots. Traditional costumes are only
worn in a few local communities that are frequented by tourists. I was told that the
costumes depicted whether a female was single, married or widowed within the last 10
years. Which I thought could be quite useful if it was adopted by us today.
Henk is a very informative guy, a mind of information and he bombards you with
information all day on many different subjects whether it is the history of his boat,
Dutch traditions or their politics. Sometimes I found it hard to take in all the
information he was giving me and I found myself drifting off. I like Henk very much
but I found it hard to absorb so much information.
After Elborg we moved onto Rouveen where we drove down Long Street - a street with
many traditional farm houses, and even a thatched school. Here we met a Thatcher repairing
a roof in a very unique way. The
Thatcher worked for a man called
Poepe Veerman - Poepe means in
English pooh, I was informed.
The reparation seemed to me to
be laborious, intensive and not
very cost effective. The roof
being repaired had steel fixing
rods showing over the entire
surface of the thatch, which
normally would indicate the end
of the thatches useful life.
Traditional farm house
16
The process required tying up two bundles of water reed in order to cut them in half
with a hedge cutter, so that the Thatcher had the length of reed he necessary to perform
the repair. Starting at the eve the entire course of reed would be pulled down to allow
room for the reed that had been cut to be fed in. Reed was now fed in along the whole
course, giving a mixture of old and new reed now protruding about 50cm out from the
steel rod. The rod was then tightened, the reed dressed into place and then the whole
process repeated on the next courses above until the complete elevation had been
covered. I questioned the Thatchers about the cost effectiveness of this operation and
they assured me it gave the customer another 15 years life span for a third of the cost of
PoepeVeerman Thatchers reviving an old roof at a third of the cost of a re-thatch
a re-thatch, I remained sceptical. This method of reparation is so popular in Holland
that there are teams of Thatchers that just specialise in this technique.
Having spent an interesting hour with these Thatchers, it was time to move on to
Staphorst, where we stopped for lunch - a Dutch version of bacon and eggs. It included
all the same ingredients that we would use but in more of an omelette style with salad
included - probably a more of healthy variation of bacon and eggs than that of ours but
just as delicious.
IJhorst was next on the agenda a village with a population of 1500 people. Attractive
forests and wild fields surround this pretty village. The Reest is a small creek that runs
along Ijhorst, remnant from the ice ages. This village is the recreational capital of
Staphorst. There are several campsites and places to rent bungalows. We visited two of
these Holiday Parks of De Witte Bergen with 65 thatched bungalows situated under
trees, which were in a very bad state of repair.
17
At the other Park at Striks Erve, where the buildings were the same age as the ones at
De Witte Bergen but because they were out in the open they were in much better
condition. The local environment does have an enormous affect on the way a thatch
roof performs.
I saw nothing on these roofs that looked like rapid decay (soft brown rot) that day or
any evidence that could convince me of the vapour theory. In my understanding the
biggest factor against the vapour theory here, was that these were Holiday Homes and
they would only be occupied partially throughout the year. They would be occupied
even more scarcely in the winter, therefore the idea that the temperature could build
inside the house and cause vapour to condensate would be very hard to accept.
The thatch at the big holiday park at De Witte had some big problems with decay, but
this was not the kind of decay I was looking for. These were all built in the woods and
the environment proved to be very destructive for the thatch, but then most Thatchers
would already know that if you put thatch under trees it will not last. This kind of decay
looks like natural decay but speeded up. They were decaying faster than normal but this
could be attributed to sealed construction and local environment.
We carried on
our journey
looking at
thatch and only
stopping if I
saw something
that caught my
eye, which
happened on
many
occasions. I saw
a restaurant with a gigantic birds nest on top of the chimney; I
think it was a Heron.
Holland has many windmills and many of them still working, but it still seems like a
novelty when you come across a thatched one, which we did in De Wijk.
De Witte Bergen, Striks Erve: These two thatches are the same age 20 years
Heron nesting
18
The Dutch Thatchers seem to be very good at precise coat work that is extremely flat
and crisp at the edges. Their ridges are mostly tiles cemented into place, although I did
see ridges made out of felt, concrete and wood or just left open with a ridge roll on top.
There was a very ornate one made out of ridge rolls and placed in a criss cross pattern
across the roof.
As we drove on, my concern for Henk‟s driving was getting worse. As I had mentioned
earlier, one minute we were in the gutter the next over the white line, too busy trying to
talk and point out Thatched roofs to see where he was going. Henk told me a story
about the time he showed 3 Japanese Thatchers around and he had to stop while they
threw up. He said they didn‟t like being driven in a car - never for a moment did he
consider it was his driving. Joost however, who I was to spend the next day with, also
agreed with me about his
erratic driving.
I would like to say onward
and upward, but everywhere
in Holland is flat, it‟s a
cyclist‟s paradise. So onward
we proceeded past more and
more thatched houses. I
couldn‟t work out whether
the whole of Holland is
densely thatched or whether
they just took me to places
where there was an
abundance of thatch, not
dissimilar to the UK. Our journey also took us to more Holiday parks with some very
large thatched properties on them and in the most exquisite places. One of them was
Waterpark Belterwijde a very exclusive park or estate with what looked like the most
expensive properties.
The day was beginning to wear on and all this
hopping in and out of the car to look at different
places was starting to make me tired, so the next
stop was a complete change to the format of the
day so far. We arrived at a place called
Giethoorn. Giethoorn used to be a car free town
known in the Netherlands as “Venice of the
North” or “Venice of the Netherlands". It became
famous, especially after 1958, when the Dutch
film maker Bert Haanstra made his famous
comedy "Fanfare" there. Therefore, Giethoorn is
an internationally well-known tourist attraction in
the Netherlands. In the old part of the village,
there were no roads (nowadays there is a cycling
path), and all transport was done by water over
one of the many canals. The lakes in Giethoorn
were formed by unearthing peat.
Waterpark
Belterwijde
Canal in Giethoorn
19
Henk had brought two fold up
bicycles with him and this was
our opportunity to cycle some of
the delightful pathways around
this pretty little place. It was just
as if we had been transported to
another country, a world within a
world peppered with café‟s, bars
and restaurants, with tourists
meandering along the footpaths
that followed the canals. We
ended up at Smits Pavilion at the
edge of one of the lakes where
we enjoyed a welcome beer
before we cycled back to the car.
The last place we were to visit was
Swifterband and as the day wore on
weariness was setting in. We started at
7am and it would be 8pm before we
returned home. Swifterband was an
estate or streets with artificial thatched
houses. Initially, I had to look really
close, as they did look quite realistic.
As we looked round them taking
photos as we went, a house owner
came out to question what we were
doing, Henk introduced me to the guy
and told him I was doing a Winston
Churchill fellowship and what that was.
In return I was curious why someone would want to live in an artificial thatched house
instead of an authentic one. The man
simply explained he didn‟t want all
the hassle of repair and maintenance
that goes along with a real thatch.
This is totally opposite to the
opininons held in the. Where folks
here would not entertain the idea of
artificial thatch; they want the real
thing along with all the notions of
romantic idealism that goes together
with living in a thatched property.
This was the end of a very interesting
day in which I saw many and varied styles, modern and old, radical and traditional. I
saw some unusual techniques, but most of all I was dumb struck with the amount of
purpose built holiday parks incorporating thatch roofs.
A thatched restaurant in Giethoorn
Artificial thatch at Swifterbant
Artificial thatch at Swifterbant
20
Wednesday 9th
June
Today I spent the day with Joost, Henk‟s right hand man. Joost is an ex Thatcher, a
young guy who gave up thatching to work full time for the Dutch Federation of
Thatchers. I was intrigued by his decision to give up thatching for a desk job, as most
Thatchers I know are hands on people, who prefer to be on the roof rather than
anywhere else. His answer was less than convincing, he explained that he was married
with a young family and wanted the security and stability that goes with a regular
income. I had a suspicion that a part of him longed to get back on the roof again.
Joost took me to two sites to meet
some really good Dutch Thatchers.
The first site we went to there were
three guys working on a roof, not a big
roof but a typical Dutch one with slack
pitches on the slopes. I spoke with the
Thatchers but I didn‟t see anything to
interest me here. The construction was
as I expected and the techniques
almost the same as in the UK. I am
concerned however that Thatchers in
general do not take proper care of the
reed on site, by ensuring it is stored off
the ground and covered at all times,
This was a point in question here.
When we arrived at this site the Thatchers were having their morning break and it
seemed commonplace for workmen here, not just Thatchers, to have these gypsy
caravan type huts that they take with them from job to job.
We met some Thatchers at another site who
specialise in the repair and maintenance of thatch.
They were removing moss and algae from the
surface of the thatch. The method they were using
however horrified me, but it was a practice that I
was to come across again and again on my
journey. A hedge cutter was used to take off at
least 50mm of thatch, which I agreed did
successfully remove the moss and lichen, but in
my opinion removed too much of the thatch to be
beneficial for the longevity of the roof. Then the dressing up and brushing down of the
coatwork took place followed by spraying with some kind of ammonia to kill of the
spores form the moss, the spraying would then be repeated every 12 months. Joost
thought this was too often and spraying just the once was sufficient, because he
believed that too much chemical would start to cause damage.
An interesting fact to note here was that when the Thatcher was repairing the coatwork
under the ridge tiles, he brought my attention to condensation that was collecting on the
underside of the clay ridge tiles. This was in my estimation, some confirmation that the
sealed roof construction was damaging to the thatch. It showed that the water vapour
that existed in the roof could not escape because there was no air flow through the roof.
Workmans Hut
21
The problem is compounded here, because the tiled ridge actually forms a barrier to the
exit point of any air flow, preventing any drying affects that prevailing winds would
have.
Lunch today with Joost, provide another opportunity to try something different. He
suggested I tried a Dutch treat called Croquets; they were a kind of rissole in
breadcrumbs with a side salad, which I found very tasty.
After lunch we started looking at thatched
properties again and we visited yet another
big, water park - thatched estate at Galjoen
Zuid Lelystad. This was just a very pleasant
development in a very nice location. The
thatched properties here were in good
condition and showing no signs of any of the
problems I had come to look at. Again I
thought I had been brought here to be
impressed rather that to look at examples of
premature decay.
From there, we went on to, yes, you
have guessed it another thatched village.
The properties here were of very
elaborate and impressive design. The
real advantage of all these villages,
estates and holiday parks, for me is that
it provides the ideal way in which to
study and monitor thatch on a grand
scale. This advantage restricts variables
when comparing how one property fares
in relation to another and also eliminates
the question of material and to a degree
workmanship variation. The thatches here were all in very good condition with clean
roofs except for one that jutted out over the water. On the north facing elevation of this
property there was a large build up of moss on the area of the roof that overhung the
water. There was also some indication of a micro climate with a nearby large tree. So
the conclusion here was that the microclimate was to blame, with water evaporation
causing the damp conditions on the roof. We then noticed that timber cladding on the
balcony was covered in algae, whilst the rest
of the building remained clean. The question
was why the algae didn‟t affect the timber on
the timber clad walls of the house. Perhaps
the overhang of the thatch above was
protecting the walls or that the balcony was
more exposed to rain and the elements. But
no suggestion here that moisture in the
property was to blame.
Galjoen Zuid Lelystad
22
Thursday 10th
June
This morning I travelled with Henk to Laren,
a municipality and a town in the netherlands,
in the province of North Holland. Located in
the region called “t Gooi” it is the oldest
town in that area and one of the richest
towns in the Netherlands, along with its
neighbour, Blaricum. Nationally, Laren is
well-known for its wide array of clothing
shops. This is a very beautiful part of
Holland where the poor used to live, but now
it is occupied by the rich and famous.
The purpose of my trip here this morning was to spend the day with a team of Dutch
Thatchers. I was taken to a building site on the middle of town where they were
building the largest thatch property I have ever seen. This was thatching on a major
scale, but thatching is that way in Holland, there‟s thatch everywhere you look and
most of it is enormous.
The idea of working on this site for the day was starting to make me feel nervous. I
wasn‟t afraid of my ability to thatch or to achieve the standard they required, but I
wasn‟t properly equipped (no boots, no work, clothes, no hard hat, ect). I had been off
the roof for two and a half years, after open heart surgery and my appetite for thatching
on this scale, just hadn‟t returned yet. I felt ill at ease, but I shouldn‟t have worried asI
had arrived at a most inconvenient time.
The three Lithuanian Thatchers I was introduced to by the main contractor, had just
completed the section of the roof they had been working on and were busy clearing up
ready to go home. They were due a 10 break after a 5-week stint. I breathed a sigh of
relief then spent the morning looking around this most impressive project.
I spoke at length to the Thatchers, who were most helpful. They talked about the
difficulty of thatching some of the unusual features on this roof. They were undertaking
vertical and parapet thatching and accomplishing it with aplomb. They confirmed to me
that it was extremely complicated to execute and in order to achievement a good job it
was paramount that the reed was sorted out and the appropriate bundles were used in
the right places. This kind of vertical thatching is very rare in the UK.
Laren
Tabaksspaadje project in Laren
Tabaksspaadje project in Laren
23
One of the major concerns I have when I visit foreign
countries is their apparent lack of health and safety on
sites. Here was a major development going on right in the
middle of town, but I found unsafe scaffolding, swaying
violently from side to side as, no hard hats were being
worn and they were using mains electric on a wet day
instead of using a transformers to reduce the power. The
Dutch are in the EU the same as we are, so why is it that
we always seem to follow the letter of the law when our
partners see fit to ignore them?
Once again I found evidence to back up my worries about
the storing of the reed. The bales had been covered with
tarpaulins, but the reed had been stacked so close to the
ground that water was entering the bales by capillary action.
With no more thatching to observe or Thatchers to talk to I
spent the rest of the day wandering around the town,
enjoying the architecture and looking for evidence of
premature decay. I had plenty of thoughts and theories about
what I had seen so far, but nothing that would persuade me
that I was even looking at the same problem here as we are
in the UK.
The town of Laren was adorned with many thatched houses of all shapes and sizes, both
new and old. I spent the next few hours enjoying some time on my own just to look and
reflect on what I had seen so far without feeling I had to listen to, or be heard by
anybody. After four days of intensive, information packed touring, this was a welcome
break and I was going to take full advantage. After touring the town I once again
decided to enjoy the Dutch custom of coffee and apple cake.
Later Henk phoned to inform me he was coming to pick me up. We drove around for a
while looking at some of the most expensive thatches I
have ever seen, some of them costing up to 4&5 million
Euros. There was nothing to say about these properties,
regarding the thatch, as they were all very impressive
dwellings with fine roofs. However there was one
property I saw that had just been completed, which was
already showing signs of decay, due mainly to poor
slope and overshadowing of trees, causing decay to
form in one of the valleys.
When we got back to the office they had a surprise
waiting for me. It was the first day of the Herring season
and they had bought me some Herring to sample. I felt
like this was a bit of a bush tucker trial and they were
just testing me to see if I could eat them. This is a
delicacy mainly favoured by the Dutch men - the Dutch
women tend to shy away from this tradition. Well I
think I may have surprised them by eating the whole fish, but not in one go. It was very
Poor reed storage
Mains Electric on site!!
Eating Herron with Joost
24
oily, as you would imagine, but it is packed with omega 3 - it didn‟t taste either horrible
or nice, but it was the texture that put me off. I could have eaten another one but you
would never here me say, “Oh I would love another herring”.
Frivolities over, we packed up and headed for Henks, this was to be my last night with
them and their hospitality had been second to none so I though it would be nice to give
them a small leaving present. I bought a plant for Harriet and a bottle of port for Henk.
As I gave it to Harriet I said, “this to remind you of me”, but to Henk I said “this will
help you to forget me”. I also gave them a card with some words of appreciation on it
and a much coveted Churchill Crown and jokingly said to Henk “If you keep this for
long enough you could sell it one day and buy another boat”.
Friday 11th
June
I woke early this morning full of anticipation about my continuing journey, and a little
nervous of meeting my next contact, who was described by Henk as the God Father of
Thatching, in Belgium. I was also feeling a bit sad to be leave Henk and Harriott as
they had been such good hosts and Henk an effervescent travelling companion.
However, I was looking forward to moving on and meeting others on my journey and
hopefully getting a little time and space to myself.
My enduring memories of my stay with Henk and Harriett, will be burning the
midnight oil listening to Henk with his natural exuberance for all things, from his boat
to politics, to food and of course thatch.
Goodbyes having been said I was picked up by Peter (Henks assistant) who was going
to take me by car to meet my next contact, Ludo Ibens, and then accompany me for the
rest of the day on my short excursion around Brussels.
Ludo lives in Wuustwezel, Belgium, and is the owner of one of the largest, if not, the
largest thatching company in Europe. Ludo is an eighth generation Thatcher and his
family‟s thatching history goes right back to Napoleon. He employ‟s 32 Thatchers, 15
Belgium, 3 Polish and 14 Hungarian, with a team of 6 Thatchers based permanently in
France-where he has his own registered company.
After the indoctrination of the last few days, where I had been given chapter and verse
on the vaporisation theory, it was like a breath of fresh air meeting Ludo. He was totally
opposed to this idea and proceeded to give his thoughts and opinions on the problem of
poor quality reed. This must have been very confusing for Peter, who has only ever
heard one side of this argument. At times, Ludo took full advantage of having one of
Henks right hand men available to lobby and started to challenge him over the politics
and polices and of the Federation of Dutch Thatchers.
Ludo is a young man; divorced and with a passion for cars; he informed me that he
goes to as many formula one races he can and once met Richard Branson in the pit lane.
He had to give up the practical side of thatching due to a serious back injury; a similar
fate to that suffered by myself.
He planned to take us to two of his sites today, in and around Brussels, where some of
his Thatchers were working,
25
Brussels has grown from a 10th-century fortress town founded by a descendant of
Charlemagne into a metropolis of more than one million inhabitants The metropolitan
area has a population of over 1.8 million, making it the largest in Belgium.
Since the end of the Second World War, Brussels has been a main centre for
international politics. Its hosting of principal EU institutions as well as the headquarters
of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) has made the city a polyglot home
of numerous international organizations, politicians, diplomats and civil servants.
Although historically Dutch-speaking, Brussels became increasingly French-speaking
over the 19th
and 20th
centuries. Today a majority of inhabitants are native French-
speakers, and both languages have official status. Linguistic tensions remain, and the
language laws of the municipalities surrounding Brussels are an issue of much
controversy in Belgium.
The work taking place at the sites we visited were both re-thatches, the roofs being
replaced after about 50 years. There was nothing special about these properties or the
methods that were being used. Ludo was keen to emphasize the good practice that his
Thatchers employed and frowned upon some of the techniques being used in other
places. In particular the practice of using a hedge cutter to clear the roof of moss and
algae and blamed the procedure as one of the major reasons that the life span of a
thatched roof is comparatively short in Holland. I traveled around Holland for four days
and did not meet one person who agreed with me, and every other English Thatcher that
the south facing side of a thatched roof wears out first. So it was with some relief when
Ludo agreed, that is so, and again held the hedge cutter practice responsible for this
situation in Holland.
Whilst we were on the subject of bad practice I asked him about his thoughts on the
storing of reed on site. He had very strong views about this and commented that all reed
should be kept well off the ground and under cover at all times and if it started to rain
then thatching should stop immediately, stating that with modern day constructions
moisture must be kept out of the reed at all costs.
Well, lunch time beaconed and little did I know what a treat was in store for us. Ludo
offered to take Peter and I for lunch which we gratefully accepted and we ended up at a
Michelin Star recommended restaurant. I shall never forget that meal as long as I live,
but I shall also remember how uncomfortable I felt, as I wasn‟t dressed for such an
occasion. However the food was amazing and I was glad I wasn‟t paying the bill, but I
had to get used to this kind of generosity because this was going to be the norm from
here on.
On the way to the next site the conversation quickly turned to problems within the
industry. A universal complaint from Thatchers is that architects are responsible for
some of the problems that we face - by designing properties with poor slopes and
ridiculous features - no argument there. He was also concerned that the closed roof
construction was the main cause of thatch deteriorating more quickly, but admitted that
it performed best, regarding the prevention of the spread of fire. In Belgium Thatched
roofs when on a building with an open construction would expect to have a life span of
30 - 40 years, but on a roof with a closed roof construction the expectation would drop
to 20 - 25 years
26
There are also many concerns here about the way reed is managed, cut, produced,
transported and stored. Thatchers here would like to pay a little extra so that a
certificated system could be introduced, to ensure that cutters and producers are held
accountable. Because the climate in Europe is becoming warmer and wetter, water
levels are rising in areas where the reeds grow; water levels are also being kept high,
where wildlife conservation takes priority. This results in the reed being cut too high up
the stem thus amputating the strongest component of the reed. Ludo‟s father believes
that problems with poor quality reed started when the producers started packing the
reed into round bales instead of shipping it loose, but I don‟t know of a Thatcher who
would like to revert back to the days when deliveries of reed would arrive like this.
However, Norfolk reed is still produced this way and historically we have still had the
same problems with Norfolk reed that are now affecting European reed. Criticism of the
way reed dealers store their reed was also mentioned. At most dealers yards, a first in
last out system operates; Ludo wants to see a first in first out system adopted to ensure
the reed is used in correct rotation. The reed that comes from distant sources can remain
in containers for up to 60 days and it is generally accepted, that due to temperature and
climate changes, both within and outside the container that this has a detrimental affect
on the quality reed. This man is very passionate about his job and is convinced that
pressure should be put on the reed producers to ensure better quality control, but he is
only too aware of how difficult this is because of the vast difference in the culture and
economical variances, from the very poor areas where the reed comes from to the rich
affluent property owners of Western Europe, where they eventually ends up.
Chinese reed is currently flavour of the month with both Thatchers here in the UK and
in Europe and doesn‟t seem to be affected with the problems we are seeing with
European reed. Ludo, is now so concerned about European reed that he refuses to use
reed from Austria, Poland and Hungary and prefers Chinese reed. He considers that
because the growing climate is very cold it is better for producing healthier reed.
Chinese reed was also a bone of contention for Ludo with Peter, he wanted to know
why the Federation of Dutch Thatchers would not endorse Chinese reed on their web
site and accused them of creating doubts in the thatch owners mind as to the quality of
this reed. He suggested that it was political and the real reason that they didn‟t give
Chinese reed their approval was because they didn‟t want to upset their own reed
cutters and suppliers by seemingly giving their Thatchers the go ahead to buy from
theChinese.
Overall I was extremely impressed by Ludo, he was a Thatcher like myself who uses
his experience and common sense to try to understand the problems that we facing. A
very diligent Thatcher, who runs his business with extreme efficiency, he steadfastly
documents all of his work and has over 2000 files on record, comprising of everything
to where the reed came from, to who supplied it, who thatched the roof, the time of year
it was done, the weather at the time. This way, when he eventually gets an enquiry from
a potential customer Ludo can give the thatch owner a complete history of the property
regarding the thatch.
This idea is on similar lines to an inspiration that the National Society of Master
Thatchers had in the UK, they wanted thatch owners to keep a record book or log, that
stays with the property and contains the history of all the work and changes that has
taken place to the property.
27
Just a little anecdote before I end my journey with Ludo. To put in perspective how big
a status Ludo‟s company has is in thatching terms, Ludo sponsored the Miss Belgium
contest this year so that his companies advert would go out on national T.V.
This was the end of a very enlightening day as far as I was concerned and a very
enjoyable one to boot, but there were many controversial comments made throughout
the day and I wondered what affect that would have on the conversation as Peter drove
me to my Hotel in Antwerp. Fortunately the Hotel was on the way home for Peter as
well, so he didn‟t have to go out of his way. He was very relaxed and seemed to be
pondering on all that he had heard during the day-I suppose one of the problems for
Peter is that he is relatively new to thatching and has no experience of his own to draw
on but today‟s outing certainly gave him a lot to think about and a lot to talk about
when he got back to the office on Monday.
I was really looking forward to getting to my Hotel for the night and having time to
relax before tomorrows epic train journey to East Germany. On arriving I was shown to
my room on the ground floor, it looked comfortable and unassuming, but I was sure
that after I had eaten it would render a good night‟s sleep.
Eating alone was to present me with a bit of a problem as I continued on my journey; I
just hadn‟t realised how self-conscious I had become when it came to going into
restaurants or bars on my own, but this is something I clearly had to deal with, or else I
was going to starve.
I was very disappointed with myself as I compromised all of my standards by eating at
a Mc Donald‟s, something I promised myself I would never do again, after my eldest
daughter held one of her birthday parties there when she was a small child, I remember
complaining at the time about the rip off that it was and that I would never participate
there again.
The streets were starting to get busy as the evening drew on and crowds were starting to
gather outside the bars and cafés, as it was the start of the World cup in Africa and
France were about to start what was to become their disastrous campaign. I felt
alienated and couldn‟t bring myself to join in; my shyness had got the better of me for
now so I decided to cross the road to the train station and check up on the time of the
trains ready for my epic journey across Northern Europe to Lubeck in East Germany.
Saturday 12th
June
I wanted to get up early this morning so I had plenty time to prepare myself for the 400
mile train journey from Antwerp to Lubeck in Germany. This was the first time I had
travelled Europe by train and I was full of questions, would I be able to understand the
timetables? Would the ticket collectors speak English? Would I even get there? The
first problem arose when I went into the ticket office to confirm my departure
arrangements, the man behind the counter told me that this was going to be a very
difficult journey today as there were works on the line and that I would have to use
bus‟s at certain points on the journey. He gave me a printout of all the connections I
needed to make, a total of 6 in all, 5 trains and one bus and it was in Flemish (I think).
Some of the times between trains were down to just a few minutes so the chances of
missing a connection was a real possibility. My estimated time of arrival in Lubeck was
28
19.51, that is if I negotiated the journey successfully; so I couldn‟t afford to mess this
up or my hotel for the night would be shut, as there was no night porter.
The inevitable happened and I did miss a connection, got on the wrong train and ended
up at a place called Enschede. I was befriended by a young Dutch woman (Jessica) and
her baby (Angelica) on the train to Ensheded, who took pity on me and gave something
to eat after hearing about my misfortunes. It was really nice to have their company for
the 3 hours it took to the next stop, bearing in mind that I was on the wrong train going
to the incorrect destination.
After much shaking of the head the ticket lady there produced a timetable that would
reroute me back to Lubeck. Unfortunately this would require another 5 trains and would
not arrive in Lubeck until 21.48; this was going to be a very long day. It was now
4.00pm, I had been travelling for 6 hours and I hadn‟t eaten and the chances of eating
looking at the new timetable looked very remote as there was very little changeover
time between stops.
I was very nervous now and looked for all the available information every time I
boarded a different train to make sure I was on the right one. I decided to call ahead and
warn the hotel that I was going to be late. They said as long as I was there for 11pm it
would be ok.
At one of the last stops, (Ratsenburg),a party of young ladies boarded the train
whooping, singing and laughing. They appeared to be drunk and I wasn‟t sure what to
make of them. As they proceeded up and down the train they seemed to be offering
items from a basket they were carrying. It then occurred to me that it was a hen party
and one of the young girls was to be married. They were raising money by selling
cheap, tacky items to the passengers and encouraging them to participate by amusing
them with their singing and dancing. I was asked to contribute, which I did and made it
a very entertaining end to a tiresome journey.
I arrived in Lubeck in the state of
Schleswig Holstein at 21.48 very
tired and weary, fortunately the
hotel was just over the road from
the train station, so it was just a
short walk to end a very
demanding day. I must admit at
times during the day I did feel a
bit like Michael Palin. The
young girl on reception was still
there and after apologising for
her poor English (which was
excellent) showed me to my
room and welcome sanctuary for
the night.
Lubeck in Germany
Schleswig-Holstein
29
Schleswig-Holstein is the Northernmost of the sixteen states of Germany, comprising
most of the historical duchy of Holstein and the Southern part of the former Duchy of
Schleswig. Its capital city is Kiel; other notable cities are Lubeck, Flensburg and
Neumunster, and.
Schleswig-Holstein borders Denmark (Region Syddanmark) to the north, the North Sea
to the west, the Baltic Sea to the east, and the German states of Lower Saxony,
Hamburg, and Mecklenburg-Vorpomern to the south.
Sunday 13th
June
I just did not want to get up this morning, after my long day of travelling yesterday I
slept well and felt too tired for breakfast. However I had arranged breakfast for 8.30
and I thought I should make an effort so I
dragged myself out of bed. The breakfast
room was very pleasant but I felt
uncomfortable again as I knew I was the only
Englishman here and I felt embarrassed that I
didn‟t speak the language. The lady showed
me to the table and spoke to me in German. I
apologised and said sorry I‟m English, but she
didn‟t speak English either. She repeated what
she said and I thought I will have to guess
what it is. Sometimes if you think about it
logically and consider the situation you‟re in,
you can work it out. So it was breakfast what
might she be saying “do you want tea or coffee” yes I think so, I said yes then she
spoke more German - what could that mean? Ah could it be “do you want milk” I
thought just say yes and see what happens. I was right and there was coffee with a jug
of milk. This is a simple case but I have used it in more difficult situations and
sometimes if you just listen to the tone of what they are saying you can get the gist. I
have a little electronic translator, which I meant to bring with me and forgot it, which
has been a real annoyance for me. I know hardly any words in German except “thank
you”. I just felt a little uncomfortable by the fact that the English expect everybody to
speak our language and we don‟t have to bother and maybe we should make more of an
effort.
After breakfast I phoned Tom arranged to meet him in the middle of Lubeck a most
adorable historic old city.
The old part of the town is an island enclosed by the Trave. The Elbe-Lubeck Canal
connects the Trave with the Elbe River. Another important river near the town centre is
the Wakenitz. Autobahn 1 connects Lübeck with Hamburg and Denmark. The borough
Travemunde is a sea resort and ferry port at the coast of the Baltic Sea.
Tom is a very friendly unassuming man with a delightful family, who gave me a guided
tour of the city including a sightseeing trip around Lubeck by boat. The tour guide was
Ariel view of the main City of Lubeck
30
speaking in German so Tom asked him, for my
benefit if he could speak in English, he said no, but
he would speak much slower, in German!!!
The Hanseatic City of Lübeck is the second-largest
city in Schleswig-Holstein, in northern Germany,
and one of the major ports of Germany. It was for
several centuries the "capital" of the Hanseatic
League ("Queen of the Hanse") and because of its
Brick Gothic architectural heritage is on
UNESCO‟s list of World Heritage Sites. In 2005 it
had a population of 213,983.Situated at the Trave
River; Lübeck is the largest German port on the
Baltic Sea.
In 1937 the Nazis passed the so-called Greater Hamburg Act, where the nearby Free
and Hanseatic City of Hamburg was expanded, to encompass towns that had formally
belonged to the Prussian province of Schleswig-Holstein. To compensate Prussia for
these losses (and partly because Hitler had a personal dislike for Lübeck after it refused
to allow him to campaign there in 1932, the 711-year-long independence of Lübeck
came to an end and almost all its territory was incorporated into Schleswig-Holstein.
During World War II, Lübeck was the first German city to be attacked in substantial
numbers by the Royal Air Force. The attack on 28 March 1942 created a firestorm, that
caused severe damage to the historic centre and the Bombing of Lubeck in World War
II destroyed three of the main churches and greater parts of the built-up area. A POW
camp for officers, Oflag X-C, was located near the city from 1940 until April 1945.
Lübeck was occupied without resistance by the British Second Army on 2 May 1945.
On 3 May 1945, one of the biggest disasters in naval history happened in the Bay of
Lubeck when RAF bombers sank three ships which, unknown to them, were packed
with concentration-camp inmates. About 7,000 people were killed.
The Boat trip was followed by a visit to Niedereggers a very famous Marzipan coffee
shop and restaurant where I sampled a piece of walnut
and marzipan cake. A fine dinning experience and I must
say a much more pleasant experience than eating the raw
herring.
Lübeck is very famous for its excellent marzipan
industry, and according to local legend, Marzipan was
first made in Lübeck possibly in response to either a
military siege of the city, or a famine year. The story,
perhaps apocryphal, is that the town ran out of all foods
except stored almonds and sugar, and used these to make
loaves of marzipan "bread". Others believe that marzipan
was actually invented in Persia a few hundred years
before Lübeck claims to have invented it. The best known
producer is Niederegger, which tourists often visit while
in Lübeck, especially during Christmas time. Niederegger was founded by Johann
Georg Niederegger on 1 March 1806 in Lübeck and is since famous for their marzipan
Niederegger Marzipan Cafe
A Typical Crow Stepped Gable
31
for about 200 years. The company is a family-owned limited private partnership.
Niederegger marzipan is classed as 100% marzipan and contains much less sugar in
comparison to other marzipan makers.
Much of the old town has kept a medieval
look with old buildings and narrow streets.
The town once could only be entered by
passing one of four town gates, of which
two remain today, the well-known
Holsteinor, (City Gate 1478) and the
Burgator (1444).
Much of the old town centre is dominated
by seven church steeples. The oldest ones
are the Lubecker Dom (the city's
cathedral) and the Marienkirche (Saint Mary's), both from the 13th and 14th century.
Like many other places in Germany, Lübeck has a long
tradition with Christmas market in December, which
includes the famous handicrafts market inside the Heiligen-
Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit), located at the
north end of Königstrasse.
After lunch I made my way back to the hotel for a short
rest and relax before I rejoined Tom and his wife for a
family barbeque prior to watching Germany‟s first game in
the world cup. Rested and showered I walked back through
the City towards Tom‟s house to meet with his family and
neighbors for a somewhat chilly barbeque. I remember his
wife complaining about the cold summer so far and how
she wished she was in Rumania where the climate was
warmer and then Tom commenting that they now talk
about the weather just as much as the English. Already crowds of German supporters
had started to gather, this was going to be an awkward night for me having to show
favor towards the German team, something that I am in stringently opposed to. The
barbeque was very good and I was made most welcome. They all spoke English which
was a real blessing for me. Well Germany beat
Australia 4-0, I tried hard to hide my
disappointment and attempted to give stifled
congratulations and hoped it came across as
sincere. On the way back to my hotel the
German fans were out celebrating in force, with
their vuvuzela‟s in full volume. The atmosphere
in town was amazing, but by the middle of the
night I had become a little intolerant of their
party mood and the result, especially after our
(England‟s) dismal 1-1 draw with America the
night before, I just hoped that we didn‟t have to play Germany in the early stages and
not while I was here in Deutschland. I just wanted to SLEEP.
Hospital of the Holy Spirit
Holsteinor, (City Gate 1478)
Marienkirche (Saint Mary‟s)
32
Monday 14th
June Lubeck to the Isle of Rugan
I met Tom outside the hotel after breakfast
for the short drive to his yard and offices,
where I was introduced to Ole Jedack who
was to be my escort, guide and companion
for the next two days. Tom Hiss was the
second reed dealer I had met on my travels
in Europe. He informed me that he started
dealing in reed when his father died (aged
65), after a car crash in 1920. The business
started when they went from supplying
grain to reed. Hiss Reet is a traditional
Germantown-based international trading
company for thatched roofs, water-reed, natural building components and garden
products. Hiss Reet has evolved since foundation in 1833, become the leading supplier
of water reed in Germany. They now supply in excess of 2 million bundles of reed each
year to the German market alone. Tom has subsidiary companies in Turkey, Romania
and Hungary where they harvest and process finest European water reed for thatching
and ecological construction.
I was quite impressed by the attention to quality that was being used here. There was
already a certificated system in place to identify the source of the reed and all the
deliveries of reed are tested for moisture content upon arrival. If the reed is found to
have high levels of moisture then it is returned to the supplier. Moisture checks are
again taken when a delivery is taken to the Thatchers. Tom points out that the method
of testing is not accurate but it gives a rough indication the moisture content. Tom is
also concerned that nitrate levels in reed are increasing in general and so carries out
checks for this too. There is a conviction here to that Thatchers have to become more
vigilant and start to do their own basic checks for moisture and nitrate content. The
benefits documenting their work should also be considered, so that they have reference
points to identify the source of poor quality materials or workmanship.
In the offices I met a gentleman named Philppe who gave me a CD which had a
comprehensive guide to thatching in Germany. He was a very knowledgeable young
man with whom I shared a very interesting conversation before meeting the famous
Professor Slicter, who was at Tom‟s yard this morning, he was there to carry out
mandatory checks for moisture content, on a new consignment of Hungarian reed that
had just arrived. The Germans do not allow reed to be used unless it has been checked
and passed by the professor. As far as I could work out this is just paying lip service to
the rules, because his statement usually consists of the following, “normally this reed
would be fit to use but it is up to the Thatcher‟s discretion as to its suitability”, no
ducking the issue there then.
One of Tom Hiss Barns
33
Thatching in Germany had taken a set back however; due to a report that was published
on the internet about a Killer Mushroom that was going to destroy all thatched roofs.
This was a very damaging report that I mentioned earlier but the effect it had on the
German thatching industry was immense, people lost confidence in thatch and it has
taken a long time to recover from this misleading report.
The next couple of days were out of my hands as regarding my scheduled itinerary. I
had no hotel booked for the night and I was wondering where I would actually end up.
Tom however had taken care of all this and I was in very capable hands of Ole. Ole was
a former dental technician who loved what he was doing but when he saw an advert for
a job with Tom Hiss decided to take a change in direction and become a reed dealer
assistant. He was to take me to the Island of Rugan Germany‟s biggest Island. The
journey there was an education and Ole was a most informative guide. Driving with Ole
was like being in a mobile office with Ole multi tasking every step of the way,
answering calls, writing notes, checking his sat nav and telling me about his views on
life, history and geography, but I liked him very much.
We passed through a town called Wismar where Ole told me about a famous folk law
story about a pirate who was born there. A large number of myths and legends surround
the few facts known about Klaus Störtebeker's life. Störtebeker is only a nickname,
meaning "empty the mug with one gulp" in Old German. The moniker refers to the
pirate's supposed ability to empty a four-litre mug of beer in one gulp. At this time,
pirates and other fugitives from the law often adopted a colorful nom de guerre or name
of war.
According to legend, in 1401, a fleet from Hamburg led by Simon of Utrecht caught up
with Störtebeker's force near Helgoland. According to some stories, Störtebeker's ship
had been disabled by a traitor who cast molten lead into the links of the chain which
controlled the ship's rudder. Störtebeker and his crew were ultimately overcome and
brought to Hamburg, where they were tried for piracy. Legend says that Störtebeker
offered a chain of gold long enough to enclose the whole of Hamburg in exchange for
his life and freedom. However, Störtebeker and all of his 73 companions were
sentenced to death and were beheaded. The most famous legend of Störtebeker relates
to the execution itself. Störtebeker is said to have asked the mayor of Hamburg to
release as many of his companions as he could walk past after being beheaded.
Following the granting of this request and the subsequent beheading, Störtebeker's body
arose and walked past eleven of his men before the executioner tripped him with an
out-stretched foot. Nevertheless, the eleven men were executed along with the others.
The senate of Hamburg asked the executioner if he was not tired after all this, but he
replied he could easily execute the whole of the senate as well. For this, he himself was
sentenced to death and executed by the youngest member of the senate.
Another place we passed on the way was Peenemunde, which was the site of one of the
most modern technological facilities in the world between 1936 and 1945. The first
launch of a missile into space took place here in October 1942 and it was here that the
famous unmanned V bombs were invented and used during the war. The sole intention
of this place was to achieve military superiority through advanced technology. Some
people now believed that by the end of the war the Germans were in the advanced
stages of inventing a flying saucer.
34
In 2004, construction of a new bridge over the river Strelasund commenced, called the
Strelasundquerung 2. The German Chancellor Angela Merkel opened the new bridge on
October 20, 2007. The name of this new bridge is the Rugenbrucke (Rugen Bridge).
The connection has a length of 4.1 kilometers (2.5 mi), the new bridge is 2,831 meters
(9,288 ft) long and the center pylon is 128 meters (420 ft) tall.
We crossed the bridge that took us over to the
Island of Rugan and once again what a lovely
place it was. Rügen is located off the north-
eastern coast of Germany in the Baltic Sea. Rügen
is one of the most visited holiday destinations in
Germany. Rügen was a major summer holiday
destination in the German Democratic Republic.
Rügen remained a holiday island after German
reunification; it has now surpassed Sylt as the
most popular German island again.
In February 2006, dead swans found on Rügen
and tested positive for the first known case of
H5N1 (Bird Flu).
During the day we met some Thatchers on the island, Stephan Orolinski,Grob Zicker
and Burkhrd Erch. Burkhrd was a real character who was treated like a celebrity by
tourists and locals alike. For 20 years he was a former merchant sailer and got into
thatching after the reunification of Germany.
Most of what I saw here was as expected; I saw
no signs of premature decay or any methods or
practices that would concern me. There is a large
amount of thatch on this Island of Rugan and the
Germans like the Dutch are promoting it for the
development of Holiday parks. These holiday
homes must not be confused with what we think
of as holiday homes, these buildings are all large
detached houses with large gardens.
I had some pre-conceived ideas about East
Germany, I thought it would be run down and a bit impoverished, but on the contrary, it
was very modern and up to date. The Germans had obviously spent a lot of money re-
constructing the East. Our hotel for the night was a good example of that, with very
high quality accommodation.
The world cup was now in full swing and after our evening meal we watched another
game on one of the big screens erected in the square while we enjoyed a beer named
after the famous pirate I mentioned earlier (Stortebeker).
The Island of Rugan
Holiday home in Rugan
35
Tuesday 15th
June
This morning I woke feeling very tired and jaded after hardly any rest and much
travelling over the last 10 days. Also my concerns are starting to grow over the lack of
opportunities I have had to record any of my findings down on the laptop. I hope that
when the time comes I will be able to decipher my rough notes.
I went down to breakfast where Ole was already seated and eating and wondering
where he was going to take me today. As we started off he told me we were going to
meet a Thatcher called Reiner Carls who was the chairman of the local Master
Thatchers association. Reiner is also responsible for writing the German rulebook, for
Thatching, along with some others. This is good idea because it gives a definite
standard set by Thatchers for Thatchers and much better to do this for ourselves than
have authorities impose it upon us as I am sure they will one day. There are 20
members in the association and 40 Thatchers in the region who do not belong to their
Federation. Reiner was a merchant seaman before he decided to become a Thatcher.
After the reunification of Germany there were plenty of thatching jobs around because
they were being grant aided by the German government.
We drove into this pretty village, which had many thatched properties of enormous
size; one can only imagine that this must be a really expensive area to live. This guy
was Thatcher who had a team of 6 men and was thatching a kindergarten with an area
of a 1000 square metres; 3 months work even for 6 men, he told me. He told me of
some of the problems he had with underlying asbestos and how he has the permission
to remove and dispose of it because he had the necessary training. I have had similar
problems with jobs that I have undertaken in the UK. I believe the standard of health
and safety requirements in the UK are better than most of the places I have been to and
this situation would not be permitted in the UK. In the UK the building would have
been sealed off and a specialist team would have been employed to remove the asbestos
under very controlled conditions.
There was nothing new to see in the methods they were using, but I was impressed with
the care and attention he was using. The entire reed was stacked off the ground and
covered. The reed was sorted or graded into sizes for quality and any defective bundles
were cast aside, and would be compensated for by the dealer on his next delivery. I
know that this is a ploy set to some extent by the dealer to ensure the Thatcher returns
but I think it is a good way of building up trust between Thatcher and supplier.
The only fault I could see here is that he had no covers on the roof in case of rain and
water could enter the top course if not prevented. The consensus so far is that the reed
must be kept dry at all times and this includes stopping thatching when it rains. I was
impressed with Reiner because he was an old fashion Thatcher who was on the roof
working with his men keeping an eye on quality and coaching his men.
In Germany Thatching is a proper science and anyone who wants to be a Thatcher has
to go to Thatching school for three years and then he has to do two years learning about
the technical side of the building trade; all before he sets foot on the roof. After that he
has to take, what I have been told are very difficult exams. I think this is good because
it make sure that they all “sing from the same sheet” but I cannot imagine how you can
36
spend three years training someone and not see how they perform on the roof. I have
trained 2 Thatchers and I know from my point of view that when I give a lad a chance
to have a go at Thatching, I know within one hour if he is capable of doing the job.
Ludo Ibens of Belgium, I, and most other Thatchers would agree that we can tell more
or less straight away whether a prospective young lad would make the grade as a
Thatcher.
This way of learning to thatch through the German rule book reminded me of a film I
saw when I was young “The Magnificent Men in Their Flying Machines”. In the film a
German was sitting in an aeroplane and his partner asked him how they were going to
work out how to fly it. With the book in front of him, he said, “Ze same vay as ze
Germans learn to do everyzing, from ze instruction book”.
I asked Reiner if he had any experience of problems with thatch deteriorating too fast.
So he took me over the road to look at a Thatch that Reiner had done 13 years ago. The
north facing side was covered in very thick moss and lichen but when he told me he had
cleaned it once already with a hedge cutter I became more interested. This is a common
practise with the Thatchers I have met so far and it could be the answer to one of the
questions that has puzzled me so far. They all agree unanimously that the north facing
side of the roof wears out first and in the UK we are all in agreement that the south
(sunny) side wears out first. The foreign Thatchers think that it is most important (so
does professor---) to clean the roof of all algae and moss so that it allows the roof to
breath, so every few years, because the moss returns they clean it with a hedge cutter
and remove 4 to 5 cm of thatch. That is a colossal waste of thatch in my opinion, where
we would probably, in most cases only clean the roof when the property is re-ridged,
every 12 -15 years. We would only then remove the growths by hand, or by Leggett (a
Thatchers dressing tool) and bush off with a broom. I asked Reiner why he thought that
this roof had large moss deposits on it and no other roof in the village had. In his
opinion he said it was due to the trees overhanging the roof, but in my estimation these
were to far away to cause such heavy deposits. However I had to admit it was the only
reason I could see at the time. All the roofs I have seen in Germany are of the open
construction with foils at the eve and 80mm gaps under thatch to permit airflow through
the roof to allow it to dry out.
We left Reiner and drove off towards Kiel where there is a canal pass which allows big
ships to take a short cut across this part of Germany and save many thousand of miles.
The Canal makes a passage from the Baltic Sea to the North Sea and carries more
shipping than the Panama Canal. According to the canal's website, it is the most heavily
used artificial seaway in the world; over 43,000 vessels passed through in 2007,
excluding small craft. We are going to a place called Insel Riems, which means Small
Island. The region to the east of here is called Mecklenburg Vorpommern. In this part
of Germany there are two regions know as Angol and
South Saxon, and people from these two areas got
together and invaded Britain and they were known as
Anglo-Saxons from who we descended. This whole
region is very flat; they say that when you have a
visitor here, you see him one week before he arrives.
In St Peter Ording we met Hans-Herman Ohms,
chairman of the local thatching organisation of
Schleswig-Holstein, and Katherine Jacobs, a Lady
Hans, Katherine and Ole.
37
Thatcher, who runs her own company and employs 6 Thatchers. She is also a Master
Thatcher in her own right and bears a remarkable resemblance to Kate Glover, an
English Lady Thatcher, who is the vice Chairman of the National Society of Master
Thatchers.
Hans-Herman is a very amiable man with a very big smile; you can‟t help but like him.
He is the type of man who you would imagine would make a very good grandfather.
He told me a little story of when he went to Eire for a Holiday. Hans had been learning
to play the guitar and one of the songs he was practicing was an old German folk song.
During a night out in one of the bars in Eire he was encouraged to join in with the
locals and their rendition of an old local Irish folk song and low and behold it turned
out to be the same one he had been practicing at home.
He took Ole and I to some local sites to give us an idea of theThatching that was being
done in the area and although a little different from what I had seen before there was no
new evidence or clues to help me understand the problems of rapid decay.
The more I see the more confusing the picture becomes. I can‟t be as sure and as
confident as Henk and be absolutely confident of each property and the reasons they
have problems.
Hans-Herman expressed the frustration he has at the moment because he wants to start
a magazine, but can‟t fund it unless he has the support of all the Thatchers. At the
moment one section of the Thatchers doesn‟t want to contribute.
I asked Hans about the practice of using a hedge cutter to clean a roof and he said he
would never use this method and only recommends cleaning the thatch by hand and
only when it is dry.
Later that afternoon we stopped for a welcome coffee at the Friesemkate Restaurant in
St Peters Ording. The four of us sat there chatting about Thatch and many other things
until evening arrived, so we decided to eat there in the warm evening sun. Because the
weather had not been so good Hans told me about a folk law tale, saying if someone
comes to see you and they bring sunshine they are angels with wings. That‟s a welcome
I have never received from English Thatchers.
All the foreign Thatchers, that I have visited or met, are fascinated with our straw
ridges. Everyone wants to know how we construct them, how long they last, and how
we make them look so pretty. Katherine asked if I could arrange a Thatcher exchange
for three to four weeks so we could learn each others techniques and methods.
At the end of the evening Hans-Herman paid for the meal and we agreed to exchange
NSMT magazines and information about some of the topics that we had talked about.
Hans then took me to my hotel for the night, which was one of the most superior that I
have ever stayed in and insisted on paying the bill the next morning. I will never forget
the generosity, kindness and hospitality that I have been shown and I hope that one day
they will visit me and I will be able to return the warmth of welcome I have received.
38
Wednesday 16th
June
The next day signalled the end to my short but most enjoyable time with Hans-Herman
and as he drove me to meet Sonke Bartlefsen I thought how hard it is to keep meeting
these nice people and then just when you‟re starting to get to know them you have to
say goodbye.
Sonke lived in the most amazing house with the most beautiful garden, in which stood
his office, in the shape of a large round house.
We enjoyed a coffee and mid morning snacks
with Sonke and his wife in his house before I
bid farewell to Hans-Herman.
This was an added departure to my itinerary
that was arranged by Hans-Herman.
Sonke has a large team of 24 Thatchers. He
also undertakes slate and tiled roofing.
Sonke Bartlefsen; a man in a hurry, if you ask
me, was under no illusion of the seriousness of
the problems that face the Thatching industry in Europe. He was quick to inform me
that he had problems with all roofs and materials. He said “reed may be good with hard
stems but he still can‟t say for definite if this would produce a good thatched roof,
guaranteed to last”.
He has a big problem with a roof he thatched recently. The roof is only two years old
and although it is showing no signs of rapid decay and looks perfectly fine, it is giving
off a very strong pungent smell of mushrooms. The owners have complained and in
order to prevent any loss of confidence in thatch he has agreed to re-thatch the property.
However he knows that the results could be just the same in a couple of years.
I think this is a very big step in the wrong direction and I don‟t think there would be
Thatchers in the UK willing to go as far as this to keep a customer happy. I do believe
that this decision is fueled by the controversy over the killer mushroom saga that
erupted in Germany and is still making Thatchers nervous, as to whether they will be
sued
I visited another property with Sonke where his men were carrying out some repairs to
the coatwork. The surface had become really crumbly and powdery but the cause of this
was not obvious. How had the water penetrated to cause this decay; they have no straw
ridges like we do, so the problem isn‟t caused by down hill spars. This made me think
about their use of Biddles; could the over use of Biddles to gain access to the roof be
causing this problem? I suggested that as the Biddles are pushed into the roof that the
spikes could buckle a piece of reed and take it deep into the roof on the end of the
spike, thus allowing rain water to follow the bent reed and penetrate the roof in
localised areas. Could the problem be thermal pumping an idea which has not been
scientifically proved but needs to be looked at? It was not a new roof so I could rule out
the kind of decay (brown rot) that I was looking for.
Sonke Bartlefsen’s Storage Yard
39
We drove to the station where we caught the train to the Island of Sylt in Westerland.
The train was absolutely packed with tourists making their way to this very popular part
of Germany.
The island of Sylt is shaped a bit like an anchor attached to the mainland. On its west
coast, the fierce surf of the North Sea gnaws mercilessly at the changing shoreline. The
wind can be so strong that the world‟s best windsurfers meet here each September for
the final Surf World Cup of the tour. By contrast, Sylt‟s eastern Wadden Sea shore is
tranquil and serene. Twice a day the shallow ocean retreats daily with the tides,
exposing the muddy sea bottom. On Sylt‟s north, you‟ll find wide expanses of shifting
dunes with candy-striped lighthouses above fields of gleaming yellow rape flower, as
well as expanses of heath.
For the past 40 years, Sylt has been the preferred playground of the German jet set,
providing gossip for Germany‟s tabloid press. These days, the couplings and tripling
are more discreet than they once were, but the glut of fancy restaurants, designer
boutiques, ritzy homes and luxury cars prove that the moneyed set has not disappeared.
As you can imagine this was another very exclusive part of Germany with very
expensive houses and posed the question of why is Sonke taking me here? I am afraid
that I came to the conclusion, that once again they were trying to impress me, cynical or
what?
On the Westerland peninsular, I saw the most amazing Thatch property that I have ever
seen, but it would be classed as a Thatchers
nightmare, because of the amount of Dormer
windows present, over 20 in all. The thatches
here are finished off with heather ridges. These
ridges are purely aesthetical and only last 3-5
years. The construction of the ridge bares no
resemblance to the way our ridges are made.
Firstly the top of the roof is protected with
bitumen felt, and then the ridge is formed by
stuffing heather under wire mesh, which is
attached to the top of the roof. I was worried by
this technique, because they had gone to the trouble to ensure that they had an air flow
through the roof then potentially sealed it off with the felt. The germans seemed to have
developed some very strange ideas about how to ensure air flow through a thatched
roof. One which is included on all new build constructions, is to have breather pipes
leading form the eve line all the way to the top of the roof on the underside of the
thatch. It then passes through the ridge and is vented by a pipe that sits on top of the
ridge. These breather pipes are positioned about every 2 metres across the roof. As far
as I could see all this did was take air from the eve along the pipe and let it out at the
top and in actual fact not affecting the thatch at all. The eve line of the thatch is vented
also by a specially formed mesh that sits between the wall plate and the brow course;
this I do think is a good idea, so much so that I brought a sample home with me.
We caught the train for our short journey back to Sonke‟s house where for the first time
on the trip my schedule was going to go astray. I should have been arriving in Aero
today to meet Morten Petersen, although Sonke and his wife explored every avenue, it
was too late now to get me to the ferry. They had even more bad news for me, because
Thatch on the Westerland Peninsular
40
of where they lived the train journey to the ferry the next day would be very difficult
and complicated. I was starting to get nervous; I didn‟t want another day of endless
trains and buses. They started to speak to each other including their son in German and
although I couldn‟t understand them it was obvious they were trying to persuade their
son to take me to the port in Fynsav the next day. I was right and after about an hour of
trying to find me a hotel for the night this ended up being the plan.
Thursday 17th
June
Sonke‟s son picked me up the next morning at 8.30 for the 2 hour trip to the port of
Fynsav. He was a very pleasant young man who was enjoying the opportunity of
driving his dad‟s Mercedes Benz, perhaps this is how they persuaded him to take me, I
don‟t know but I wasn‟t complaining.
The big news on the radio that day was that the Opal car factory in Germany was
closing with many redundancies expected.
I was now in Denmark, the last country on my itinerary, a place I was really looking
forward to seeing. The more you hear about a place the more you build up a picture of
what you expect that place to be like. I expected Denmark to be a very clean, expensive
and cultured country, a place where they do things right and they are not encumbered
by outside influences. The 70 minute ferry journey to Aero gave me time to relax and
have a welcomed cup of coffee.
Ærø is 30km in length and 8km wide and has a population of almost 7000. Ærø has the
world‟s largest solar power plants, with an area of 18,365 m2. It provides a third of
Marstal's power consumption.
Ærø is the only island among the larger Danish Baltic Sea islands that is not connected
with a bridge.
Ærø is endeavoring to become self-sufficient in energy, and in 2002 a figure of 40%
self-sufficiency in renewable energy was reached. The initiatives have attracted high
international recognition and Ærø is considered to be one of the world's leaders in the
field.
Ærø's three district heating systems of solar collectors have won international acclaim.
With the recent expansion, the system in Marstal is now the world's largest solar
collector system for heating.
In 2002, three modern wind turbines were erected.
The wing tip of these turbines is 100 m (330 ft)
above the ground and between them the mills
cover 50% of the island's electricity consumption.
I was met by Morten at the port, who wondered
why I was a day late, after my explanation he told
me that I missed the BBQ he planned for me last
night, which was a bit disappointing. He then
drove me to the site where he was working just in
Scale Model of Skovsgard Museum
41
time to join his fellow workers for lunch. This is how I remembered lunches on site,
Thatchers all gathered round a table, bantering and scoffing, sharing tales from previous
jobs. This visit was going to be completely different from the previous encounters;
Morten was a Thatcher in work mode and very focused on the enormous project he was
thatching at Skovsgard.
After lunch I decided to go and observe how they
were working and the first thing I saw horrified
me, Morten was dressing the new coatwork with a
chain saw, now even if you can justify using a
chain saw on old moss covered thatch, you can‟t
have any claims that this practise is good for use
on a newly thatched roof.
The roof was a traditional roof with open
timbering with the thatch being fixed with wires
tied around the battens. This is a very labour
intensive way of fixing the reed, because it
requires having a person on the inside of the roof to pass the wire back out to the
Thatcher on the roof. Because it was a conservation project Danish reed was used
although the consensus of the people on site is that
Danish reed is not very good. I was told it tends to be
short in length, a bit on the soft side and dog legged.
Once again the practise of shaving old roofs down to
remove the moss was prevalent, and with the short reed
and slack pitches on the slopes, this meant that roofs
would only have a maximum life span of 30 years.
I noticed something here that I have noticed on many
occasions back home, but I have never understood.
Reed curls up on certain parts of some roofs, in the sun.
I have often wondered why this only affects some roofs
and not others in the same area. Does it happen when
the weather is hot and dry? Is it because the reed is very
short and the butt ends are too exposed? Or is it poor quality reed?
I decided to check the difference between the pitch of the thatch compared with the
pitch of the reed on one of these roofs. The pitch was 47 degrees on the thatch
compared with just 14 degrees on the actual reed. This was a measurement I was to
repeat on the rest of my trip and the conclusion was that the shorter the reed the bigger
the difference between the two measurements. I think
that this combination also affects the curling of the reed.
Morten is the current head of one of the Danish Trade
Federations, a position he is intending to relinquish. He
wants the new head to model their Federation on the
same lines as the Dutch and have someone in charge that
can generate money for his or her own wages and for
training. There are two organisations in Denmark who
unfortunately do not see eye to eye with each other.
Bad Practice?
Labouer securing the wire
Apprentice‟s Examination Model
42
Some Thatchers have tried over the years to reconcile the differences between the two
with no success. The Federation here do have a training scheme for apprentices and part
of their appraisal at the end is to produce a model showing what they can achieve. The
model that Morten‟s apprentice produced was proudly on display outside his
farmhouse.
There was only so much to see and learn here so I decided to take up Mortens offer of
using his cycle to ride around the Island to look at the thatch and get an overview of the
place.
This was the most enjoyable day of my trip so far. To be able to cycle around this very
pretty little island was an absolute delight. I had no idea how big the Island was, but
when I looked at the map I had almost cycled from one end to the other. There is an
enormous amount of thatched properties on this little Island and almost all of them are
holiday homes, which were remarkably cheap by our own comparisons.
The evening consisted of sharing a meal with Morten and his children. I was told by
Morten that they wanted to practice their English on a real English person. Well I‟m not
renowned for my dialect or my expertise in the English language, so I told Morten to
warn them not to get their expectations to high, about what they may learn from me. As
I expected, his two children spoke very good English but, as with most of the Danes
and other northern Europeans they spoke it with an American accent, mainly because
most of them learn English from American films shown with sub-titles.
Tonight was going to be my first night sleeping under a thatched roof. Morten lived in a
thatched farmhouse which he was busy renovating. The construction of this roof is a
closed construction and as far as I was concerned the main benefits of living under a
thatch were lost. During the night I felt stifled, although the bedroom window was wide
open; it wasn‟t a particular hot night, but it still felt hot and stuffy. The modern
construction methods have ended the pleasant, cool when hot, warm when cold, climate
within the thatched dwelling.
Friday 18th
June
This morning I
resumed my bike
ride around the
northern part of
Aero while
Morten went to
work. After lunch
he proposed
taking me on a
guided tour of
some of the
thatched properties on the Island, before he droped me of at the ferry for the journey to
my next destination of Ordense. Soon I was greeted by wonderful fields of poppies with
a thatched house at the bottom of it. On the theme of flowers I noticed that many of the
A field of poppies on Aero
Verticle Hip End on Aero
43
thatched houses had plants over the door way, this I was informed was, as the plant
droops it indicates that the roof had become too dry and was at risk of fire.
Another quirky
feature I noticed on
some of the roofs
here was vertical
gables, a feature I
have not come
across before and
probably not one
that I would like to
undertake. In the
afternoon we looked at many thatched houses all of which seemed a little worse for
wear. The style of the thatch here was consistent, with low roofs, slack pitches, timber
framed and mostly with dormer windows in the thatch. This was a small Island but they
still had some very large thatched house to show off and although I thought the
standard of thatching on Aero average, I didn‟t see any problems with premature decay
only Rapid decay brought about mainly by poor practice and inferior reed.
The rest of the buildings on Aero were quite colourful, painted in yellows, pinks,
orange, blues and greens, it all seemed a little like toy town but very nice place to visit
and one that I would certainly think about revisiting for a holiday at some point.
We shared a coffee and ice cream before it was time for me to go and wait for the
evening ferry back to the mainland of Fyn and then catch the train to Ordense, the
birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen.
The ferry was packed, it was Friday night and everyone was trying to get home for the
weekend. I too was weary, the trip was taking its toll on me and I knew I was going to
be arriving late at my hotel that night. I was also hungry and so I decided to eat on the
boat, I knew it would not be a delicacy I could relish, but I couldn‟t stand the thought of
arriving late then having to find somewhere to eat.
I had planned the location of my Hotels so that they were
never far from the train station I would be arriving at.
However when I arrived in Odense I completely lost my
bearings and found myself lugging my case around the City
in confusion. The sat nav on my phone kept taking me to the
location of Hans Christian Andersen‟s birthplace instead of
The Hans Christian Andersen Hotel. I saw two young women
out for the night and asked them if they knew where it was
and much to my surprise they didn‟t. They were very
apologetic and assured me that they should know where it is.
They asked a passing guy who did know where it was and
then they gladly escorted me there. On the way they told me
they were students and that Odense was a really boring place.
I was here for a weekend break from my investigation into premature decay and I was
hoping it was going to be an interesting place for me to visit; especially as I remember
the tales of Hans Christian Andersen from my childhood and that of my children‟s
upbringing with such fondness.
A Large Thatched House in Aero
Morten Walking in Aeroskobing
Channel 4‟s Coach Trip
44
When I arrived at the hotel, I was amused that the
TV program Coach Trip was at the same hotel,
recognisable by the Union Jack on the roof of the
coach and also on the wing mirrors. It is a
programme I had started to watch recently and I
was hoping to catch a glimpse of Brendan the
host.
Saturday 19th
June
The next day was spent as a tourist rather that a
Thatcher, it was a very wet day so I spent most of it
looking round the Hans Christian Andersen
Museum and his birthplace. Although I knew of his stories and fairy tales I didn‟t know
much about the man himself and what an interesting character he was, although it was
said that Charles Dickens though he was a “Bore”, mmmmm.
Sunday 20th
June
Today I had arranged to meet a well known
Danish journalist and TV presenter, Joergen
Kaarup Jensen for lunch. He specialises in
writing books and making programmes about
thatch and was in Ordense for an interview for
the job of running and promoting the
Thatching Federation in Denmark. After lunch
he took me to a recreation of a thatched
peasant village, Den Fynske Landsby, similar
to the one at the Weald and Downland
Museum. The village reflected the life and
times of peasants during the 19th
century.
Nearly all of the buildings here were thatched including a thatched Hospital and an
open air theatre and of course a thatched windmill. The walk back to my hotel along the
river Ordense was most enjoyable and ended a rather enjoyable day.
Monday 21st June
Time to head off again, so with my bags packed I
got on the train for the short 1½ hour journey to
Arhus on the Island of Jutland, where I was to
meet Ian de Reybekill; a funny name for an
Englishman.
Ian went to live in Denmark when he was fifteen,
having had an unpleasant childhood living in
Birmingham. Ian started thatching when he was
sixteen, after seeing someone thatching and
The Funen Village
Odense Inner Harbour
Statue of Hans Christian Andersem
45
decided that‟s what he wanted to do. He started
to learn how to thatch with Earling Petersen,
who we were to meet later in the week.
Aarhus is a city of growth. With a population of
more than 300,000, Aarhus is Denmark's second
largest city. It is at heart, however, also
Denmark‟s youngest city when you consider the
average age of its habitants which is far lower
than anywhere else in the country. At the
University of Aarhus alone there are nearly 35,000 students, and there is a total of 25
educational and research institutions in the city. But Aarhus is also a city with clearly
visible roots, founded, as it was, by the Vikings in the 8th century.
A brand new city in the making
Aarhus is at present expanding dramatically. During the course of the next ten years the
entire inner section of the Port of Aarhus will be transformed into a new and exciting
urban area with houses, businesses and educations institutions. As in Hamburg in
Germany and Malmo in Sweden the urban harbour areas will be Aarhus‟s new face to
the outside world with spectacular buildings and attractive canal areas. Within the next
few years some 7 - 8,000 new Aarhus residents will move into the new urban area. In
parallel with this, the Lisbjerg quarter to the north of the city will also be an area of
quite astonishing growth and it will be connected with the city centre by means of a
new light railway, passing through Denmark‟s largest hospital area, the „Skejby
Sygehus‟ Aarhus University Hospital.
1250 years of city history
At the same time Aarhus is a city which is also very conscious about its roots. Aarhus
could well be Denmark‟s oldest city; evidence has been found which shows that there
was a Viking settlement here as early as the 8th century. The Vikings settled by the
mouth of the river – at the very spot where the Cathedral today rises into the sky with
its tower soaring to more than 90 metres in height. The ‟Bispetorv‟ square was also the
centre of the town 1250 years ago, and in The Viking Museum in the basement of the
Nordea Bank you are standing right next to the rampart which the Vikings built around
Aarhus in the 10th century.
Tuesday 22th
June
Today it was Ian‟s turn to show me around some of the
thatched properties he had earmarked for me and
probably for the first time on the trip, I was shown
examples of thatch with brown rot. These samples
matched exactly with what I have seen back home and
what I was hoping to see more of on my travels.
Ian is involved in producing a magazine for the Society
Brown rot
Cafes and restaurants un the centre of Aarhus
46
for the protection of Thatched Houses in Denmark. He informed me that he has written
reports on this problem and has got himself into trouble by accusing some Thatchers of
poor practise, but believes that some of the blame must lie there.
The Thatcher‟s choice of reed and where they place it on the roof, along with the
problems of fixing it too firm, is some of his main concerns. With what seems like an
abundance of short fine reed coming onto the market especially from the Hungarian
reed beds, Ian believes that all Reed deliveries should be treated as suspect and
examined thoroughly before being accepted.
There is a consensus of opinion starting to emerge, amongst the Thatchers I have
spoken with; although it‟s not a consensus that gives a clear insight into what is
happening with the reed. So far we know that this problem affects all roofs and reed
from all sources, with the belief that no longer is there a reliable source of reed, with
the longevity that it has historically been associated with. It has become unstable and
quality varies far too much to trust it implicitly. The demand for reed is seen as the
biggest factor here, with demand being high; less desirable reed is making its way onto
roofs that would have otherwise been rejected.
Many Thatchers also think that the customer needs to be re-educated, as to what
contributes to the aesthetical appearance of a thatched roof. Most customers would
prefer their roof to have a very clinical pristine appearance, this requires fine straight
reed, however Thatchers are starting to accept that reed that is dog legged or bent
makes for a better roof. Although the appearance of the roof is inferior, the bent reed
permits the surface to be more open, allowing for better airflow through the reed and
thus assisting the drying out of the thatch.
The development of roof constructions that help
prevent the spread of fire is also seen as major factor
in contributing towards rapid decay, but not brown
rot.
We visited Ian‟s thatched holiday home; 6 bed
roomed dormer type house in half an acre of land
which was valued at just £30,000 before we headed
back to meet his family, where I shared a BBQ with his wife and their two sons.
Wednesday 23rd
June
The next day we went to meet Earling Petersen, an
ex Thatcher who now makes a living manufacturing
screw fixings and has a passion for English pubs.
He has 8 machines working 10 hours a day and says
that he can only just make it pay and then adds that
no one else will be able to do this now because with
the cost of the machines, no one will be able to get a
return on their investment.
Earling surprised me by agreeing with Henks water
vapour theory but is not so sure about his facts and where they come from. He believes
Large Manor House with problems
Ian’s Holiday home
47
that the problems with reed started with the reunification of Germany, when the
demand for reed was at an all time high and the development of the closed construction
for fire protection. He remembers looking at problems as far back as 1990.
We visited a large manor house just before we got to Earlings and he confirmed to us
that he was concerned about the roof because it was
sucking up water. This reminded me of a theory that
was given some credence here about thermal
pumping; in which after a heavy rainfall the sun
comes out with very strong warmth and causes the
water too travel up into the thatch.
He has some unusual thoughts on which side of the
roof will last longest; on normal roofs where there is
no build up of
moss and lichens
and says the north side will last longer. I am
sceptical of this because I think this is another case
of where there are moss and lichens growing they
will shave it off with a hedge cutter. More
interesting however he does agree with me that it is
never just one reason why a roof fails it‟s always a
combination of a few factors, but says he has
examples of both poor and good quality reed lasting
a long time.
Earling lived in a thatched house, he is a passionate man,
who was fervent about his craft, but he was restless and
wanted another challenge, he expressed a longing to do
something else.
Before we left, we visited a thatched retreat hut Earling had
made in the nearby woods and saw his artistically thatched
mushrooms.
Our next visit was to a Danish reed dealer, Carlo Christian,
what a colourful character he was, the type of person you
take an instant liking to. He was an ex Thatcher with very
outspoken views on Thatchers and materials. When we met, he greeted me by telling
me that I wasn‟t the first Englishman to visit him on a Churchill fellowship. He swiftly
produced a newspaper cutting from February 1991; featuring the late Christopher
White; a former chairman of the National Society or Master Thatchers, on his Churchill
Fellowship. Carlo also gave me a warning and told me to be careful, because
unfortunately Chris died shortly after completing his Fellowship with septicaemia and
he didn‟t want me to suffer the same fate.
Carlo believes all the problems that Thatchers face lies with the Thatchers. Thatchers
are the ones to blame, not the materials. He can take any reed and make it last on the
roof, because he makes sure the right reed goes in the right place. Thatchers do not sort
the reed properly and position badly chosen reed in unsuitable areas on the roof. Well a
Earling in his screw factory
Earling’s retreat hut
Thatched Mushrooms
48
controversial opinion from a reed dealer but hardly surprising. He had a very unusual
analogy of this problem, He said “if you have a woman and she is good in bed then
keep her there and get a housekeeper, if you have a woman who is a good housekeeper
then keep her there and get a whore for the bedroom!!!
Carlo believes its time for Thatchers to go back to basics and for German Thatchers to
ignore the rule book that govern the Federations. Concern should also be paid to large
thatching teams and the attitudes of different companies of putting profit before quality.
I was shown an example of a thatched roof by Carlo, which was sited under trees. The
property a slack pitched roof and was thatched with poor quality reed - it was four years
old and surprisingly enough it was dry. However I still would not have the confidence
to predict that it would last longer 25 years.
Carlo deals with mainly Hungarian reed and was very concerned with all the flooding
that had taken place this summer. The reed had got wet and he was worried that this
reed would still find its way into the market and poor unsuspecting Thatchers would
have to cope with the consequences.
I walked with Carlo around his yard and premises, his house was thatched but not to a
very high standard in my opinion The reed looked like poor quality Hungarian reed
which had probably been rejected by some Thatcher and was used up by Carlo on his
own house.
I was invited to a party later that evening, the locals
were celebrating Sankt Hans aften, which can be
translated as, the evening before the day of Saint John
the Baptist. It reminded me of a street festival, where
all the locals would bring out tables, chairs and food
and sit round a bon-fire eating and drinking.
Those who know that Denmark is a protestant Christian
country may wonder why people would honour the predominantly catholic custom of
celebrating the day of an individual saint such as John the Baptist. Actually, this
tradition has its roots in ancient, pre-Christian folklore, but it was adopted and quietly
transformed by the church, when Christianity became the official state religion back in
the year 965.
After the reformation of 1536, when Denmark adopted the protestant faith, the desire
among ordinary people to celebrate Sankt Hans was still strongly desired, that an act
outlawing the tradition in 1743 went by unobserved and was quickly withdrawn.
Originally, the cause for celebration of midsummer arose from a pagan belief that in the
period around summer-solstice nature would have reached a peak in the sense that
humans, plants, soil, trees and even springs were filled with energy coming from the
sun and that from this point on nature's energy stores would deteriorate as the hours of
daylight and sunshine gradually decreased.
For pagan mystics the days around summer-solstice were thus the best time to go out in
the countryside and cut herbs and plants for use in their concoctions. After Christianity
had made its entry into Denmark, such activities were generally frowned upon, and
Mid summer festival
49
people tended to believe that gathering together and
lighting huge bonfires would be a good way to ward off evil
spirits and witches, who might otherwise bestow evil curses
upon their land or their animals. At the same time, however,
many people believed that this night proved a particular
good time to visit one of the many holy springs of the
countryside, as the water was supposed to be charged with
very special healing qualities on this night. Several other
rituals including dressing up the livestock with special decorations made out of leaves
and twigs were carried out by superstitious farmers in order to protect their cattle from
incursions of evil spirits.
Over time, the tradition of lighting bonfires became dominant and other rituals
gradually withered away as people preferred the cosiness of gathering around a warm
fire. Songs and music had always been a part of this tradition, but during the 19th
century the traditional folk songs were replaced by patriotic songs. The most well-
known of these is "Vi elsker vort land" ("We love our country") also known as the
"Midsommervise" ("Midsummer song"). It is sung at every Sankt Hans-celebration
across the country and is thus very important to know of. It was written in 1885 by the
Danish poet Holger Drachmann, and the original version had music by P. E. Lange-
Müller. In 1979 the Danish pop icons in the band "Shu-bi-dua" composed a new
melody for the song, and since then either version has been in use at Sankt Hans-
celebrations all across the country. In the links section of this review you will find
pointers to lyrics and the music from the traditional version.
In the beginning of the 20th century, it became common to affix a figure resembling a
witch on top of the bonfire. This tradition came from Germany, and some Danes regard
this particular part of the tradition with mixed emotions as it evokes memories of the
horrible persecutions and "witch"-burnings carried out in Denmark and other European
countries in the 17th century. However, this custom is only a little part of the overall
tradition, and it is easy to forget about the negative associations once you immerse
yourself in the general atmosphere of cosiness surrounding the celebrations.
The most recent addition to the Sankt Hans-celebrations is the custom of the recent high
school graduates to meet up at the bonfires to throw
their lecture notes into the fire and to generally enjoy
their last party before going on summer holidays. In the
weeks before Sankt Hans, these students will have
finished their last exams and will have been celebrating
at numerous parties with their classmates. They are
easily recognisable as they will be wearing their
traditional white caps with red or blue rims and a black
peak for the last time on this evening.
I was asked to try a traditional sweet or pudding on the night; a BBQ banana with
whiskey poured over it and then covered with cream, what a treat.
Thursday 24th
June
I left the vibrant city of Aarhus today after visiting the Old Town. This tourist
attraction is a collection of old houses that have been dismantled and reconstructed on
Traditional sweet
Bonfire on Sankt Hans night
50
this site. Every house tells a story, whether it be the post office or the clock maker and
inside are all the relics that belong to that era.
On the way to the station I was entertained by students celebrating their exam results
All week I had been wondering why so many of the young people were wearing these
sailor type hats, I just thought it was the fashion here, they were a bit geeky and I could
never see them catching on in the UK. Then I was told by Ian, that these hats with their
different colours represented the subject at which the student had achieved a pass and if
you met one, it was polite to offer your congratulations.
These celebrations were going on all over the country with students going round in
open top vehicles, whooping and cheering, tooting their horns, jumping into fountains
and getting drunk, but it was all very good natured.
This city with all its ancient history is a young person‟s city and I felt envious of their
youth.
Once again onto the train, to visit my last contact Ewe Becker, who lives on the main
island of Zealand at a place called Dianalund.
Once again an interesting journey on a crowded train in which I managed to occupy a
reserved seat - nearly three weeks of trains and I still can‟t work them out. It did not
seem to matter what time of day or night you travelled here the trains were always
crowded, especially with young people sitting on large quantities of beer in the gaps
between the carriages - they all seemed to be heading for the summer rock concerts that
I had seen advertised.
Ewe picked me up from the station in his really old Toyota Land Cruiser, which I soon
realised was the noisiest, draughtiest and slowest vehicle around, much to the
annoyance of the following traffic.
We drove straight to site where Ewe was re-thatching a house with Rumanian reed. The
reed was very fine and very hard. Ewe uses Polish reed as well, but the reed he uses all
comes from seawater areas. Reed from saltwater and brackish (mixture of fresh and
saltwater) areas tends to be better quality, but suffers from dog-legged stems, which
gives a much rougher look to the thatch than fine straight reed. This would be OK from
thatch, with a clinical finish. I think we are approaching the point where the customers
have to choose between longevity and appearance, and it is time for us to educate the
customers as to the benefits and downfalls of
aesthetics appearances.
There was nothing new to see on the roof that was
being thatched by Ewe, apart from some regional
variations traditional to Sjaelland, which gave the
roof a kind of ski slope appearance. Oats were used
on the ridge instead of straw and the gables were
constructed slightly different.
Ewe lived in a large thatched farm house in very open
Ewe’s Thatched Farm House
51
and beautiful surroundings. This was to be second time on this trip that I would sleep
under a thatched roof, but much to my disappointment it was a very uncomfortable
night sleep. It was far too stuffy and hot and once again I could not help but think that
we have lost the comfortable aspects of living under a thatch in order that they comply
with fire regulations.
Friday 26th
June
This morning Ewe took me to Reerso a tourist area and famous for its fishing, another
very beautiful part of Denmark. Here we had many examples of Danish thatch, but
unfortunately none that would reveal any clues to the problem of premature decay.
It was also famous for its Reerso cats - cats with no tails, just like the Manx cats.
We had lunch in a thatched restaurant that Ewe had thatched. He took me into the back
of the restaurant where the cook was skinning and gutting eels that had been swimming
in a large tank of water. The cook wanted to know if I wanted eels for lunch, I hesitated
as I had never eaten them before and I must admit that it would not have been my first
choice. I decided to be adventurous and go for it and I was pleasantly surprised by how
nice they were.
On the way back to Ewe‟s farm he told me the story of Harold Bluetooth a Danish king
who was reputed to be a good communicator, so they named the way that modern
communicating devices connect to each other, after him.
Visiting Ewe was like going back to the 1950‟s when no one locked their doors, and
everyone was good neighbours, in fact Ewe told me that, once, when they were going
on holiday to Australia they couldn‟t find the key that looked their back door and had to
leave with it unlocked.
This was the end of a very enjoyable time with Ewe and his wife and now the time to
move on to my last destination was beckoning.
Saturday 25th
I was woken this morning with the news that Ewe‟s mother in law had been taken into
hospital and that he would have to take me to the station earlier than he first planned.
This wasn‟t a problem as I was looking forward to spending the last night in
Copenhagen and I had the world cup football to look forward to on Sunday (England v
Germany)
I had plenty of time to wander round this old city
and once again I was entertained by the students
celebrating their exam results. It was time to relax
and do a bit of site seeing, enjoy a beer in the
warm summer sun, take in the atmosphere and
reflect on my journey.
I did visit the Rundetaan,(The Round Tower)
which is the oldest functioning observatory in
Having a beer in Copenhagen
52
Europe, which was built during the reign of King Christian 1V (1588-1648).
But most of all I was looking forward to going home and now it couldn‟t come quick
enough. I felt like I was just biding my time.
Sunday 27th
June
I was awake most of Sunday night listening to students honking horns and hollowing,
yes still celebrating, I was getting rather tired of this now, and matters were made worse
by the fact that I had also managed to catch a cold.
I had a long day in front of me as my flight wasn‟t until 10pm but this now seemed like
an age away. Te trip had taken its toll on me and instead of enjoying my last day in
Copenhagen I was feeling miserable and jaded.
The only highlight of the day quickly turned sour, when England got thrashed by
Germany in the World Cup and sharing a bar with a load of Germans celebrating their
win was not the ideal way to end my travel.
After the match I collected my bags from the hotel and made my way to the station to
catch the train to the airport. Still nervous of my earlier mistakes of getting on the
wrong trains I was continually looking for signs to confirm that I was on the right train.
This one would end up in Sweden so if I messed this up I could be in for a long night.
Not to worry the Swedish guy who sat next to me confirmed that this was the right
train.
I landed at Stanstead airport, where my daughter was there to meet me and take me
back to her house for the night, before catching the National Express coach in the
morning to Leicester. The journey from Cambridge to Leicester along the A47 was an
absolute delight, to gaze over England‟s rolling countryside and just to feel at home.
I shared many experiences over this trip, I met some wonderful people, I saw how they
lived, I shared food, experiences and their homes with them, I was treated to astounding
hospitality and generosity and even if by the end, I was a little fed up with all the
travelling, I shall remember and treasure the memories of this trip for the rest of my
life.
53
CONCLUSIONS
Comparing The Problem
I quickly realised during my visit to Europe that what I regarded as premature decay
was entirely different to what I was being shown.
The Europeans call the problem Rapid Decay and that‟s just what it is, there. It‟s as
though the whole roof has gone into a time warp and has aged before its time.
Here in the UK we call the problem premature decay, but what we are talking about
here is isolated patches on the roof that wear out before the surrounding areas of thatch.
These patches seem to have the ability to soak up water and remain wet all the time, but
do not spread outside of their confines.
I saw very few examples of this kind of decay (apart from two examples in Denmark),
to be able to form any opinions or compare any data to evaluate what is happing.
Causes
I was unable to take samples and send them off for testing because I simply did not see
enough examples of the problem.
The fact that isolated bundles rot while neighbouring reed is not affected, suggests that
those bundles that rot are predisposed to do so because of some factor in their growth or
storage, before they were placed on the roof. It seems implausible that atmospheric
conditions could cause certain bundles to rot, while leaving others unaffected
I did however, see some circumstantial evidence to make me believe that this problem
cannot be attributed to just one cause and it is more likely to be a combination of things
that contributes to this predicament.
Thatchers all know of the eight major factors which are needed in the consideration of
producing a good thatched roof.
Location/ Environment
Design
Construction: open/closed
The pitch of the roof
Maintenance
Material Quality
Workmanship
Use of fire retardant chemicals
I would now like to suggest that where we only used to consider these as single factors
they now can be multiplied many times. For instance poor workmanship can cover a
multitude of sins, an almost endless list, which relies totally on the integrity of the
Thatcher.
54
Due to pressures and demands on the small thatching companies, sometimes corners are
cut in order to ensure a profit and the same goes for the reed producers and sellers.
Demand as been great, as of the last 20 years and it is almost certain that bad practices
have crept in at all levels.
If just for instance we can recognise just 6 factors in each of the main 8 categories then
all of a sudden we have 48 reasons why a thatched roof could fail before its time.
But if you believe as I do, that we only need 2 or 3 of these reasons to combine
together, then the permutations become even greater for failure.
Diligence by all involved is required to ensure that thatched properties continue to have
the long levity we expect from them.
Above all the most worrying signs I saw on my travels across Holland, Belgium,
Germany and Denmark was the trend towards closed construction roofs. Whilst these
thatched roofs perform very well in the respect of the prevention of the spread of fire,
they under perform drastically in terms of long levity, so the customer cannot be fooled
or informed into believing that the roof is also going to last at least another 50years.
I have seen enough evidence and spoke to many Thatchers who agree that if you stop
the roof from having airflow, then the life span of the roof will be reduced.
Some attitudes towards practices we were taught years ago and currently, also have to
change because together with closed construction methods and the over fixing of reed,
these two combinations that will have a detrimental affect on the life span of a roof.
The idea that dog legged reed is bad reed just because it is dog legged is no longer
acceptable. Some of the hardest and most durable reed I saw came from brackish areas,
which tend to be dog legged. The customer has to be re-educated as well as the
Thatcher, because in some cases the appearance of the roof has to take second place to
the long levity of the roof.
Reed dealers in Europe are aware and concerned that nitrate levels are rising in the reed
beds. This seems to be more of a problem in the eastern European countries such as
Hungary, Poland, Ukraine and Romania. The argument here is complex, but I identify
the problem as being the same one that we had in the UK back in the 1960s. Farmers
were putting high concentrations of nitrate fertilizer on their crops which was working
its way into the reed beds and thus affecting the quality of the reed. With poorer
countries coming into the EU, receiving agricultural grants I speculate that they may be
carrying out the same practise.
The problems originating with reed harvesting and production are much harder to
identify and to resolve. There is such a massive cultural gap between the people
producing the reed and the affluent thatch customer. In the poorer countries many of
these workers earn meagre wages and I cannot see how further demands can be made of
these people. The reed dealers themselves are well aware of all the problems that exist
and if they are limited to what measures they can take to ensure good quality reed
reaches the thatchers, then the rest of the industry has even less chance.
55
Since the early 1970s there has been a steady fall in background sulphur dioxide levels
across eastern England due to the decline in coal-fired power stations, heavy industry
and of domestic coal fires, along with stricter emission controls.
In general, our atmosphere is less acidic, but as a result we now have higher nitrate
concentrations in the air, so when it rains it falls to the ground as a fertilizer. Along
with this, milder conditions that have developed over recent decades will provide an
environment in which organic materials will rot more quickly. .
Recommendations
Firstly I must say that the thatching organisations in Europe are coming into line with
that of the Dutch and starting to employ people to run their organisations in a much
more professional manor. This enables them to have more financial clout, and better
equipped to deal with bureaucracy that restricts the UK market. This enables them to
generate money to pay their own wages as well as to fight their cause and develop their
organisation into the voice that is heard above all the others.
Designers must be educated as to what a good design is and what is not, keeping thatch
simple with no complicated features.
If we are to adapt close constructions for new builds then the customer has a right to
know that the thatch‟s life will be considerably shorter.
Materials must be checked on arrival at site, kept off the ground and covered. Suspect
reed must not be used and returned to the dealer.
It would serve Thatchers well if they kept a log of all their work and document all
relevant data, i.e. source of reed, the supplier, date of the work, who worked on the
roof, ect.
Keeping a record of work would also identify whether some methods and techniques
work better than others, but this would be more of a long term strategy.
Money has to be found to conduct scientific research into the problem of premature
decay. Maybe it would be a good suggestion if all the thatching organisations in Europe
got together and met to discuss a way forward for this to happen.
I know there is a will for cooperation on these maters as I was invited to return to all
the countries I visited with an extended invite to all the Thatchers from the National
Society of Master Thatchers.