Wine Trail

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32 MARCH-APRIL 2012

Hunting for wines from lesser-knownregions that marvel the palate is oneof the directions the world of wine isheaded. We unravel the sheer thrill ofdiscovering different styles and varietals.

Text: Zainab Majerikov

bornA star is

33MARCH-APRIL 2012

globetrot

imagecourtesy:robertblanckwinery

France is known to have

introduced some of the

greatest wines to the world.

And yet, there are many regions

in the country that stand apart.

The likes of Bordeaux, Burgundy,

Champagne, Loire and the Rhne

valley are amongst the most

promising ones. However, when I

stumbled upon Alsace and its acute

similarity to wines from Germany, I

couldnt help but add it to my list of

French stars.In Alsace, the majority of

the production, which is 90%,

concentrates on white wine.

Wine production in Alsace, like

other French regions, is governed

by strict Appellation dorigine

contrle (AOC) rules that monitor

plantations, harvest and varietal

specications amongst various

other technicalities.

In AlsAce, the

mAjorIty of the

productIon,

whIch Is 90%,

concentrAtes

on whIte wIne.

image:Zainabmajerikov

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35MARCH-APRIL 2012MARCH-APRIL 201234

For instance, the norms allow

us to plant only one red variety

that is Pinot Noir and six white

varieties. Amongst the dry-styledwines, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc and

Riesling are produced whereas

fruity and not-so-dry grapes include

Muscatelle, Gewrztraminer, and

Pinot Gris, explains Robert Blanck,

owner and winemaker, Robert

Blanck winery, which was set up in

1732 in Obernai, Alsace. Germans

have around 15-17 different

varieties, which set the wines from

sugar, which ranges from 20 to

25 grams/litre. On the other hand,

a classic Alsatian Riesling tends

to have about 2 grams/litre of

sugar. Also, German wines usually

produce about 30% excess yield,

as it is not governed by a body

similar to the French AOC.

Comparison between styles and

varieties

Riesling One of the most famous

grape varieties that has also been

Germanys ticket to fame. It gainedpopularity during the mid-1990s

and most Rieslings in the country

are not aged in oak barrels. The

cutting acidity and at times, the

distinguishing sweetness comes

bursting forth. As I sat surrounded

by the gently sloping vineyards

of Baden-Baden and sipped

on a 100% Riesling, its peach

and summer fruit aromas were

the rIeslIngs from

AlsAce Are usuAlly

on the drIer sIde. In

fAct, most rIeslIngs

Are never oAked.

mAturAtIon only tAkes

plAce In steel tAnks.

both the regions distinctly apart.

Many French regions are

aiming to ape Alsatian wines, but

the quality and the typicity will

be unlike Alsatian wines. Robert

says, Our geography, climate and

terroir are very different. Also, the

vinication processes followed are

very different. The proximity to the

Black Forest region of Germany

inuences the soil, which lends

unique characteristics to the wines.

German wines tend to be sweeter

due to the high level of residual

pleasantly refreshing.

On the other hand, if one were

to look at the Rieslings from Alsace,

they are usually on the drier side.

In fact, most Rieslings are never

oaked. Maturation only takes

place in steel t anks. However, theBlanck winery is amongst those

that ferment the wines in old oak

barrels. It is to be noted here that

in order to give a rounded

mouthfeel and add that layer of

complexity, the wines are aged in

old Alsatian oak instead of new

oak. The wines still exude freshness

with controlled acidity.

Riesling Sptlese (late harvest)

from Baden-Baden has a pale

straw gold colour and honey,

apricot and peach aromas. The full-

bodied wine with about 8.5 grams

of residual sugar is a powerhouse

of avour.

Gewrztraminer This light

pink-skinned grape is aromatic

and produces pungent, full-bodied

wines. It is drama personied in

the glass and is deeply coloured,

opulently aromatic, and fuller

bodied than any other white wine.

It can come across as being too

powerful, but this also makes it

one of the most complex wines

around. A good Gewrztraminer

will showcase an exotic bouquet of

lychees and heavily scented roses.

It is also believed that if one can

pick bacon fat on the nose, the

mAny french

regIons Are

AImIng to Ape

AlsAtIAn wInes,

but the quAlIty

And typIcIty

wIll be unlIke

AlsAtIAn wInes.


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wine has seen good ageing and

can be categorised as complex.

Alsatian wines, on the other hand,

exude more freshness, layered

with the aromas of lychee and

mango. Pair a sweet, fruity

Gewrztraminer with the celebrity

of Alsacefoie gras.

Crmant dAlsace AC This

appellation and classication is

attributed to the sparkling wine

produced over the whole region

and made following the mthode

champenoise, where the secondary

fermentation takes place in the

bottle. The grapes used for this

are the Pinot Blanc or Riesling.

Crmant is very important to

the wine sales in Alsace and its

image around the world. The

Robert Blanck winerys production,

for instance, constitutes 25%

of Crmant.Pinot Noir The Alsatians are

allowed to make only one red wine

varietal, that is, Pinot Noir. The wine

is pale and oral, whereas Germany

is known to make Sptburgunders

(Pinot Noir), which show impressive

Burgundian depth.

Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat

and Sylvaner The rst three

varieties are often seen in some

parts of France, in Burgundy, for

example. The Muscat has a light,

dry grapy perfume rather than

the heavy-duty renditions from

the South of France wines. The

Sylvaner is not found anywhere

else in France and is also seeing

a rapid decline in Alsace. The

Sylvaner was very popular at one

time, but a lot of winemakers have

MARCH-APRIL 201236

completely stopped the production

of the same. I believe in keeping the

tradition alive and, therefore, you

will nd that 14% of my production

constitutes the Sylvaner. The wines

may not be as fruity as the others,but on some occasions, you

will want something different,

Robert explains.

The wines from the two regions

are like a split personality. Alsaces

French grape varieties exhibit

German aromas but the avour

proles stand apart. But the trend

is also shifting in Germany, where

the Riesling is taking on a different

avatar. The wines are leaning

towards the dry style, but they

come across as taut and lean with

a delicate aroma.

If I do have you hooked by now

and intrigued by this genre, then

you know where the next calling

lies. So, I leave you to chew over

the delicious mouthfeel of these

gorgeous wines.

In germAny,

the rIeslIng

Is tAkIng on

A dIfferent

AvAtAr. the wInes

Are leAnIngtowArds the dry

style.



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