Wine Symposium at the Lake Como and vertical tasting of

Armand Rousseau, time stopped for a moment

Angélique de Lencquesaing

Spend time on the shores of Lake Como, taste incredible wines, meet great wine figures,

passionate connoisseurs and talented tasters, equally humble and smart... the story of 3 days

suspended at the Villa d'Este between conferences, tastings and haute cuisine.

The world of fine wines is fascinating because it is sometimes associated to the elegance of great

moments of life. The Villa d'Este offers an incomparable setting, and welcomes each year since 2008

what insiders call the VDEWS (for Villa d'Este Wine Symposium). An almost intimidating name,

heralding a high level programme concocted by François Mauss (European Grand Jury). Winemakers,

enthusiasts and researchers from all over the world gather to Cernobbio as the lake is wrapped in its

autumn colours and slowly falls asleep for a winter's time.

The session begins for me with a joyful Paulée (lunch that traditionally puts an end to the harvests),

judiciously positioned in the programme to encourage the first conversations between participants.

At my table, two cultures coexist and face each other, several couples of Monegasque enthusiasts

talk with American promoters of the Vivino app. The temperature rises quickly, as Champagne

Ruinart Rosé flows, and the tension goes up a notch when a bottle of Château Yquem 1995 appears

in the hands of Heini Zacharassien (the creator of the app). A festival of bottles is quickly organized in

the veranda, we see wonderful bottles pass by, we smell a lot, taste a few drops here and there.

Ruinart cellar master Frédéric Panaïotis (and an

excellent taster) has no equal to find treasures and

share them (Leflaive, Dujac...), thank you Fred!

All these exquisite empty bottles end with dignity

the evening, set as trophies at the entrance of a

restaurant that has become completely untidy,

despite the laudable attempts of the butlers to

maintain a kind of order.

Environmental concerns at the heart of the Symposium

On the next day, we concentrated on serious issues. The day started with a round table debate on

wine inputs. Professor David Khayat discusses the recent progress and conclusion of studies from the

United States, and the state of research to establish a link between alcohol and cancer. The

recommendations of the ASCO (American Society of Clinical Oncology) have the force of law, it is

important to react because the issue in terms of

communication is immense. If for the famous French

oncologist, inputs are only present as residual traces in

wine, people who handle these products risk a lot and

must be protected. A reliable warning to prevent the

confusion made between the risk of diseases caused by

the use of phytosanitary treatments - established link -

and the potential danger of drinking wine. This confusion

is disastrous for the image consumers have of the sector.

The Jadot house, very committed to an eco-friendly

approach, has just obtained the label of High

Environmental Value and stresses the importance of such

an approach for the municipalities and the population

surrounding the vineyards. Several producers (Egon

Muller, Antinori) point out the dilemma they are

confronted to when using copper (a treatment used by

organic winemakers), instead of using chemicals: which one of them is preferable for nature, for

consumers? Consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, who never hesitates to tackle sensitive issues, does

not resist the temptation to emphasize that a general outcry from consumers is salutary, and

therefore desirable; because if great wines are able to enhance the quality of their production, for

low-end wines the lack of communication on the products used - supported by the lobbying of the

input companies - constitutes a danger for consumers. A desirable change or a predictable rejection?

The answer is in the hands of the producers themselves.

The intervention of the nursery owner Lilian Bérillon brings a fascinating view because he is a pioneer

in the organic approach, and even in biodynamic as he develops his activity. Moreover, it is not a

coincidence that the list of his customers looks like iDealwine's partner-domain one (or the domains

we would like to work with). Lilian Bérillon emphasizes - like Stéphane Derenoncourt - the

importance of plant material in the management of a vineyard and the need to use this method in

the long run. His method consists - he says so - in the farmer's common sense: a meticulous sorting

of the plants, the obligation to take the time to select them, a good preparation of the soil and the

root system and the importance of favouring biodiversity, guaranteeing a natural balance for the

vine.

Another enlightening view on the subject was Hervé

Berland's one, who came to expose the environmental

approach practised at Château Montrose. Surprise: it's a

leap into the future happening in this classified growth from

Saint-Estèphe! To reduce its carbon footprint, Montrose has

indeed built a 3,000 m² photovoltaic park making the

domain able to be self-sufficient in electricity (and even

more, extra electricity is sold to EDF). At the same time,

Hervé Berland mentions the installation of a geothermal

well, the use of homemade fertilizers, the recycling of CO2

resulting from fermentation for the production of sodium or

potassium bicarbonate, none of the latest technological

progresses seem to have been forgotten. The goal? Allow

Montrose to become 100% organic by 2020. A vision with

high technological content, almost lacking of spirit, as

François Mauss will emphasize it, but nevertheless

implemented by a passionate team.

Evolution of the taste of wine

One of the highlight conferences of this Symposium is the much awaited one by Axel Marchal

(Professor at the University of Bordeaux, author of a thesis on the molecular basis of the sweet taste

of dry wines) and Gabriel Lepousez (Doctor in neuroscience and specialist in sensory perception and

brain plasticity), dedicated to the evolution of wine taste. We could listen to both of them for hours,

as their speech is so smooth and demonstrations so

clear. Difficult to summarize by the way, because the

evolution of taste responds to complex influences:

viticultural and oenological of course but also related

to the expectations of different markets. The two

speakers - who are also genuine wine enthusiasts and

utter tasters - have sought in all directions anything

that could explain the evolution of the style of wines,

especially its colour, much clearer in the 18th century

than today, as suggested by the artworks of the

painters of the time (cf. Le déjeuner d'huître from

Jean-François, commissioned by Louis XV and

exhibited in Chantilly). They sought to understand the

cause: a higher colouring potential over time because

of the pulp, denser today; the increase in sugar, due

Gabriel Lepousez et Axel Marchal

to global warming, but not only (the carbon dioxide concentration increase plays a role too); the

variability of the olfactory, geographical and also cultural genes. We learn that the olfactory system

of a child is already mature after the 11th week of pregnancy, and that the olfactory repertoire of the

child builds very early, the human species being so made that it is capable of curiosity for diversified

and new tastes.

The two researchers also deliver the results of different experiments, including one confirming that

wines with a higher sugar level are a priori preferred by amateurs at the first sip, but in the long run

those with lower sugar levels are more appreciated. Moreover, Axel Marchal and Gabriel Lepousez

did not fail to note the impact of what they have called the "Sideways effect", this Oscar-nominated

film that has promoted at the highest level the notoriety of Pinot Noir - fresh grape variety for

delicate wines - in the Anglo-Saxon world.

Both point out the risk of a loss of diversity of plant material related to the development of resistant

grape varieties. Facing this risk of uniformity, an encouraging and pleasant trend puts forward the

decline in consumption in favour of more qualitative wines (and also more expensive) and the desire

to discover and curiosity. Aubert de Villaine will conclude this conference by reminding the absolute

necessity to take care of the plant material, fundamental to preserve the identity of a terroir. And the

manager of Romanée Conti knows what he's talking about...

Monumental tastings

But the Villa d'Este Symposium can't, under any

circumstances, be reduced to a succession of

conferences, although they were brilliant! A number of

practical works took place too. For example, one of them

brought me to the kitchen of the Villa d'Este - which, by

the way, serves more than 70,000 meals of

incomparable quality over 8 months, a performance that

deserves to be noticed-. One day I will make you the

meringues for which we were given the secret, let me

just practice a little. But let's go back to wine. A lovely

tasting room, laconically called Imperial Room, offers

continuously during these three days the wines of

different producers taking part in the Symposium. This is

how we managed to taste a few treasures - happy to see

again the Domaine Belluard, from Savoie, and its

incomparable sparkling - but also several monuments. From Alsace, Jean Trimbach brought a

beautiful series of his greatest Rieslings, including a rarity, the cuvée Frédéric Emile 2001 in its SGN

(selection of noble grapes) version. A wine that has not been produced since then, as climatic

conditions have never been optimal again. A complex bouquet and delicately spicy, perfectly light,

which leaves on the palate a discreet mark, the wine has however an exceptional long finish. We also

trained for the gala dinner, 'pre-tasting' the 2011 Clos Sainte-Hune Riesling, admirably straight and

precise.

Thank you for these small breads

with the iDealwine logo! 😉

In the series of monuments, there are also the wines from Romanée-Conti. Aubert de Villaine, loyal

to his discreet image, opens them without warning, to avoid too many people gathering. It is best to

stay close because the bottles empty in a flash. Arrived a few minutes too late, I discovered with

disappointment three empty bottles. With all the elegance and the generosity of one of the

participants, I managed to taste the admirable and extremely rare Batard-Montrachet from the

domain. Marvellously balanced, with all the aromas we expect for a great Chardonnay are present,

none exceeds or imposes itself, the texture is of an incredible finesse, the length is immense, a great

moment that I owe to Olivier Didon (aka Oliv on the French forum La Passion du Vin), very classy, a

huge thank you. So many tastings that it is impossible to tell you all the wines discovered and tasted -

and really regret not being able to tell you more about the German Rieslings from Dönnhof and Von

Winning -.

A vertical tasting from Armand Rousseau

If there is a tasting that we couldn't not mention, it is the one of Domaine Armand Rousseau. The

Symposium offers each year several prestige verticals organized with the producer. This is one of

them, and a good one: nine wines of this mythical domain on the menu, can you imagine the dream?

But beware; the rule of the game is strict: the tasting took place in a dead silence. Everyone was

asked to smell, taste, write their observations in an elegant little notebook, and especially in absolute

calm, supposed to help concentration. Intimidating and a little austere at first, but ultimately

valuable, considering the immensity of the wines. The opening wine, the one that serves as a

"presentation wine" - a Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2012 - is already a marvel of

freshness, with its very pure nose of Morello cherry, its intense fruit, its tight body and its finish that

develops crescendo, a controlled power. Then come four vintages of Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos

Saint-Jacques, an exceptional opportunity to confront these vintages with very different profiles. The

2012 with smoky notes, slightly toasted, is not fully opened, almost austere but develops a dense,

tight body; the 2009 offers a beautiful floral nose and develops on the palate a silky texture and an

explosive bouquet of ripe red fruits, in a more massive than vertical body. The 2010 is deployed with

remarkable energy - almost electric - absolute elegance, a perfect balance. And finally, the 2006

offers a very classic and slightly spicy nose, a supple body of roasted notes and undergrowth on the

finish.

The tension increases a notch when we approach the series of Chambertin. The change of terroir is

perceptible; these wines made from 50-year-old vines offer more richness, a much denser and ample

texture at the same time, which voluptuously fills the palate with an intensity that contrasts with the

more refined Gevrey. The 2012 offers a vibrant bouquet from which spring the intense aromas of

crushed raspberry. It is flamboyant, infinitely elegant. On the palate, the attack is immediately

voluptuous, the texture is smooth, rich and intense, its power seems perfectly mastered. We have

here a thoroughbred - or a Maserati, a car chosen to take us to both ends of this decidedly

memorable weekend - that the brilliant hand of the winemaker has delicately restrained with a

supple hand. Then comes the 2010, combining the above characteristics, but with an extra layer of

elegance. Plenitude of aromas, texture, the right balance between power and velvet, with an infinite

length. We would like to keep forever in memory this perfect wine. The 2009 is in line with its

vintage: a sunny fruit springs from the glass, fully ripe. The texture is powerful, voluptuous, with no

roughness and exceptional length. However, the general expression of the wine is still very compact

and not fully opened. At this stage, we can only advise the lucky owners of a 2009 Chambertin not to

open it yet, the vintage being still quite closed and relatively less pleasant than its peers. The tasting

ends with the delicate 2006: we land softly on a more floral nose, with spicy notes (liquorice). The

palate offers a nice freshness; we are dealing with a more peaceful wine - compared to the

flamboyant 2009 - more melted, that has reached the age of wisdom.

This tasting was a wonderful and unforgettable moment

conducted by Cyrielle Rousseau (daughter of Eric Rousseau)

that gives us food for thought by concluding with the motto

of the house: "Finding the spirit that does great things and

that would make others in other times". After a discussion

between participants, Aubert de Villaine concludes with

words that suit him: "What is magic with Burgundy, with

great wines such as those from Domaine Rousseau, which I

know well, is that they are distinctive for their discretion,

concentration and transparency." Discretion, concentration

and transparency. Remarkable definition for a Burgundy

Grand Cru, don't you think? As far as I am concerned, I will

remember it each time I have the chance to approach one of

these mysterious Pinot wines, in the future...

It is impossible to describe in detail all the great moments of this weekend of which the gala dinner is

one of the highlights. If you want to know more, the solution is to register without delay for the tenth

edition of the Symposium, which will take place from 8th to 11th November 2018. One word to

conclude: congratulations to François Mauss who has created a unique event in the world, with

exceptional talent as he succeeds in creating alchemy between participants from very different

origins and cultures. Alchemy that worked perfectly, in a warm and relaxed atmosphere. Thanks to

all his family who accompanies him with care, attention and delicacy at every moment for each

participant. Are we going back together next year?

François Mauss and Aubert de Villaine

Article published on the iDealwine Blog on 28th November 2017