© Linda Choo of Garden Canadensis Designs 2009 Page 1

Willow Leaf StoleWillow Leaf StoleWillow Leaf StoleWillow Leaf Stole By Linda Choo

Garden Canadensis Designs

© Linda Choo of Garden Canadensis Designs 2009 Page 2

Difficulty: intermediate – design includes a knit on border where the stitches for the body are picked up

along the side edge of the border.

This Willow Leaf Stole, can be made in a number of yarn weights. The size can easily be increased. The

stitch count remains constant through the pattern. Both charted as well as written directions are

included, but the knitter is encouraged to use this opportunity to make the transition to charted

instructions. The body pattern is a stockinette stitch lace with a 7-stitch garter border. The stitch is

based on Pajulehekiri from Haapsalu Sall and is a slight variation of a traditional Estonian stitch.

Construction: The border is a 26-row variation of Mrs. Hope’s Edging. The beginning border is knit first.

The Stole is then turned and the stitches for the body portion are picked up from the long straight edge.

After the body is knit, stitches are cast on for the ending border and the border is joined to the body by

purling the last stitch on the purl row together with a body stitch, until all stitches have been joined.

This is a fairly simple way of doing a knit-on border without the need for grafting.

Gauge: Gauge is not important since this is not a fitted garment. The lace will open up after blocking

Needles: Needle size will vary with the yarn choice. It is recommended that a sample or swatch is

knitted to determine a suitable needle size. The sample was knitted with 3.5mm circular needle with

laceweight handspun yarn, although straight needles can also be used.

Yarn: A variety of yarn weights can be used. The choice of yarn as well as the size will dictate the

amount of yarn used. The sample used approximately 450m of laceweight yarn. Alternatively, fingering

weight, double knitting, sport weight, or baby yarn can be used. The needle size and amount of yarn

needed will vary with the choice of weight as well as the number of repeats worked.

Size: This will depend on the yarn and size knitted. The sample was 18” by 65” after blocking.

Sample: The sample was knit with 60g of laceweight handspun.

Stitches Used:

© Linda Choo of Garden Canadensis Designs 2009 Page 3

Cast on – the cast on must be done loosely to allow for stretching during blocking. Larger needles can

be used to keep the cast on loose, if desired. Use any standard cast on method, as long as it is loose.

The sample was done with a knitted cast on

K2tog – this is a right leaning decrease, by knitting the 2 stitches together

Slip-knit-psso (pass slipped stitch over) or ssk– this is the corresponding left leaning decrease.

Consistency in the direction of the decreases is important in lace knitting for the overall appearance.

Slip-k2tog-psso (pass slipped stitch over) or sk2p– is a double decrease with the first stitch positioned

on top of the decrease. Again consistency in the type of decrease is important to the appearance of the

leaf.

Yo – yarn over the needle, to make an eyelet

Garter stitch – knit on both sides (i.e. the knit and purl rows)

Bind off – It is important that this be very stretchy and loose, to allow for easy blocking. Larger needles

can be used for the bind off.

Instructions:

Beginning Border:

Loosely cast on 11 stitches. Purl 1 row. Work 6 repeats of Chart1, making sure that the first stitch of

each row is slipped loosely. Turn. Cast off loosely, leaving last stitch on needle.

Body:

Turn work 90 degrees so that the purl side is facing. Pick up 78 stitches from chain edge along the

straight edge of the border (the chain was formed by slipping the first stitch of the border chart), by

inserting the needle from back to front through both loops of the chain, leaving the chain edge on the

purl side of the stole.

Begin Chart 2, ensuring that the first stitch of each row is slipped loosely. Do as many repeats of this

chart as desired to the required length. Knit 1 row so that you are on the left side of the stole.

Final Border:

Loosely cast on 11 stitches, using either the backwards loop or knit-on method. These new stitches will

be at the end of the last row of the body. Turn. Purl 11 stitches. Turn. Work row 1 of Chart 1. Turn. Purl

11, purl next stitch together with the last stitch of the body. 1 decrease/join made. Continue to work

the border chart, joining the last stitch of the border with the next stitch of the body on each purl row.

Six repeats of the chart will be done. Knit 1 row. Turn. Cast off loosely, joining the last stitch with the

single remaining stitch of the body. Fasten off.

Block your lace and enjoy!

© Linda Choo of Garden Canadensis Designs 2009 Page 4

Chart 1: Edging

26

/ o / o / o / o / V 25

24

/ o / o / o / o / V 23

22

/ o / o / o / o / V 21

20

/ o / o / o / o / V 19

18

/ o / o / o / o / V 17

16

/ o / o / o / o / V 15

14

V 13

12

o / o / o / o V 11

10

o / o / o / o V 9

8

o / o / o / o V 7

6

o / o / o / o V 5

4

o / o / o / o V 3

2

o / o / o / o V 1

Legend

blank Knit on right side, purl on wrong side

O Yarn over (yo)

/ Knit 2 together (K2tog)

V Slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in back

Written Instructions for Chart 1:

Row1: Slip first stitch, K2, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2

Row 2 and all purl rows: purl to the end

Row3: Slip first stitch, K3, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2

Row 5: Slip first stitch, K4, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2

Row 7: Slip first stitch, K5, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2

© Linda Choo of Garden Canadensis Designs 2009 Page 5

Row 9: Slip first stitch, K6, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2

Row 11: Slip first stitch, K7, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2

Row 13: Slip first stitch, K to the end

Row 15: Slip first stitch, K5, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, k2tog, K1

Row 17: Slip first stitch, K4, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, k2tog, K1

Row 19: Slip first stitch, K3, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, k2tog, K1

Row 21: Slip first stitch, K2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, k2tog, K1

Row 23: Slip first stitch, K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, k2tog, K1

Row 25: Slip first stitch, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, k2tog, K1

Chart 2 : Body

12 V - - - - - - - - - - - - -

o λ o / o λ o o V 11

10 V - - - - - - - - - - - - -

o o λ o λ o V 9

8 V - - - - - - - - - - - - -

o o λ o \ o λ o V 7

6 V - - - - - - - - - - - - -

o o λ o \ o λ o V 5

4 V - - - - - - - - - - - - -

o λ o λ o o V 3

2 V - - - - - - - - - - - - -

o λ o / o λ o o V 1

Shaded portion is worked 4 times.

Legend

blank Knit on right side, purl on wrong side

- Knit on wrong side (garter stitch)

O Yarn over (yo)

/ Knit 2 together (K2tog)

\ Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over (psso) (skp)

V Slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in back

λ Slip 1, K2tog, pass slipped stitch over (Sk2p)

Written Instructions for Chart 2 (Body):

Row 1: Slip 1 stitch, k6, * k1, yo, k3, yo, Sk2p, yo ,k2tog, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo* (4 times), k1, k7

Row 2 and all purl side rows : Slip 1 stitch, k6, purl to last 7 stitches, K7

Row 3: Slip 1 stitch, k6, * k1, yo, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo* (4 times), k1, k7

Row 5: Slip 1 stitch, k6, * k1, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, skp, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k1, yo* (4 times), k1, k7

Row 7: Slip 1 stitch, k6, * k1, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, skp, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, yo* (4 times), k1, k7

Row 9: Slip 1 stitch, k6, * k1, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, sk2p, yo, k5, yo* (4 times), k1, k7

Row 11: Slip 1 stitch, k6, * k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo* (4 times), k1, k7