Wilkes

UNABASHED BAY AREA STYLEFALL 2011 $12

REFLECTINGON FALLLUSH KNITS, COMFY CASHMERES,VELVETY CORDS...

STYLE MATTERSMAKING A GOOD

IMPRESSION HAS NEVERBEEN MORE IMPORTANT

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KITON.IT

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KITON.IT

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Wilkes Bashford375 Sutter Street

San Francisco 415.986.4380

450 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto

650.322.7080

RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEFWilkes Bashford

CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTORAndrew Mitchell-Namdar

MERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob Mitchell

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTORHans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITORJillian Sprague

PROJECT MANAGERLisa Montemorra

DESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. Stanton

CREATIVE DIRECTIONWSAA, Inc., Westport, CT

WILKES ART DIRECTION & COPYWSAA, Inc., Westport, CT

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine SullivanAPPAREL FORUM

Andrisen Morton DENVER, COGarys NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MNKilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PAMalouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX

Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA

Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NYMitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT

Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 12 regional editionsfor member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2011.

Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856,203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY,

NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims,

unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part ofthis magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the

publishers. Volume 14, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES6 Welcome Letter 10 The Commission Myth 56 Notes from Italy 58 Tailor’s Corner 60 Design: Haute Hospitality 78 Profile: Luciano Barbera 88 Profile: A Decade of Agave

FASHION26 Fashion Q&A: Kimberly McDonald 28 Modern Lords & Ladies 64 Basic Instincts66 Why Style Matters 80 The Richest Looks Are Seasonal

DEPARTMENTS8 Upcoming Events 12 Happenings 20 Friends & Trends 74 Travel: The Eyes Have It 76 World Scene86 Food: Cooking With the Stars90 End Page: Closet Therapy92 At Your Service

28 M & WILKES_contents [MRM & Wilkes] Q6.qxp:FORUM 8/6/11 4:27 PM Page 4

WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTURE WITH A DISTINCTLY SAN-FRANCISCAN STYLE

After an exhaustive search, we are thrilled to anounce that we have chosen Gensler, the globally-renowned architecture firm, headquartered in San Francisco, to design our milestone renovation. Gensler is the

world’s largest “architecture only” firm. After searching the world for the most exciting retail spaces today, we felt that only Gensler could offer us the best in retail space innovation combined with a

uniquely San Franciscan point of view. We aim to capture the essence and elegance of the iconic Wilkes Bashford style and all it stands for and combine it with the amenities and seamless

convenience of today’s most spectacular retail spaces. We look forward to exceeding your expectations and creating a true San Francisco landmark to be enjoyed for generations to come!

It’s fi nally happening! Despite the incredible nostalgia we all feel for our unique retail environment, we are moving into an exciting new era.

Breaking ground this October, we will be “refi tting” our San Francisco store to off er our customers a new and spectacular shopping experience.

We are leaving no stone unturned. We’re gutting the entire store, adding an additional fl oor of selling and windows for more natural light, as well as rearranging the store so that all women’s and men’s departments will be contiguous. We’re adding high-speed elevators to keep things moving. Best of all, it will be gorgeous, capturing the essence of the Wilkes Bashford vision as well as the best of San Francisco style.

We are committed to making these changes as seamless as possible. Working “fl oor by fl oor” so that the construction will be well-contained, it will be shopping as usual and service will remain uninterrupted. Most importantly, the “heart and soul” of the

store, your favorite associates, will all be here and their commitment to providing the service you expect from us will be unwavering.

As you’ll see on the coming pages, we have been busy stocking both of our stores for fall with some of the most magnifi cent

fashions the world has to off er! We look forward to dressing you with incomparable style this season... and to the exciting year to come at Wilkes Bashford!

The Mitchell Family

& Wilkes Bashford

WILKES GETS“REFIT” FOR 2012

WELCOME A LETTER FROM THE MITCHELLS FAMILY

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LIKE GREAT CLOTHING, A GREAT CLOTHING STORE OCCASIONALLY NEEDS TO BE “REFIT.”

AFTER 45 YEARS, WE’RE THRILLED TO BE REVAMPING OUR SAN FRANCISCO STORE TO CREATE AN ICONIC SHOPPING EXPERIENCE!


EVENT SCHEDULEFALL 2011

9/13-15 MICHAEL BORIS TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

9/15-17 BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

9/16-17 BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW PALO ALTO

9/22-24 KITON MEN’S TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

10/1 ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

10/11-12 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MEN’S & WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

10/12-13 BRIONI WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW PALO ALTO

10/14-15 BRIONI WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

10/14-15 KITON WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW PALO ALTO

10/14-16 KITON MEN’S TRUNK SHOW PALO ALTO

10/28-29 MICHAEL KORS TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

10/29 HAMILTON SHIRTS TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

10/29 SARTORIA PARTENOPEA TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

11/3-5 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MEN’S & WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW PALO ALTO

11/11-12 KITON WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW SAN FRANCISCO

HAPPENINGS LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

For a complete list of events, go to WILKESBASHFORD.COM

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ASSOCIATES IN AN EFFORT TO SERVE YOU BETTER

One of the most common misconceptions about our stores is that Wilkes Bashford sales associates work on commission. In reality, we have recently eliminated commissions. We did this in an eff ort to make shopping in our stores an ever more relaxed and friendly experience.

This way, our customers are free to work with their “tried and true” associates or with anyone whom they choose, without ever feeling like they have to wait for help

or off end someone if they “fl oat around.”Also, this way our customers get

the benefi t of working with a team of professionals, all of whom have diff erent areas of expertise—be it an accessories expert or a jewelry expert or a ready-to-wear expert—and so on.

The metaphor that comes to mind is the discomfort people feel when changing hairdressers within a salon. We don’t want customers to ever feel this way at Wilkes

Bashford! Our professionals have diff erent strengths and diff erent styles. Please work with and get to know them all!

We are always striving to make improvements in our stores. Our professionals have happily embraced this new team approach, which makes the experience more pleasant for them as well. Realizing we never formally announced this change in any way, we thought you, our friends and customers, would like to know!

“ BY ELIMINATING COMMISSIONS AND CREATING A TEAM APPROACH, OUR CUSTOMERS GET TO WORK WITH A VARIETY OF PROFESSIONALS, EACH OF WHOM ARE SPECIALISTS IN DIFFERENT AREAS .”

THECOMMISSIONMYTH


“ One of the charms of Wilkes Bashford is our knowledgeable and eclectic team mix of sales associates. With our new team approach, we hope you will get to know all of us!” — Jack Mitchell


A great hand was dealt for the Omega Boys Club of San Francisco this January. Wilkes Bashford was overfl owing with excitement as guests put their Texas Hold’em skills to the test, raising more then $45,000 for the San Francisco-based charity.

Hosted by 11-time World Series of Poker Champion Phil Hellmuth, guests included former 49er and Football Hall of Famer Ronnie Lott, Willie Brown and 49ers President Jed York. Our very own Tyler “Royal Flush” Mitchell sat among our guests, including fi rst-place winner Carlos Alberini, at the fi nal table.

A ROYAL FLUSHPOKER PARTY

The focus was on winning for the The focus was on winning for the Omega Boys Club of San Francisco. Omega Boys Club of San Francisco.


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It was a picture perfect evening brought together through Art and Fashion. Scores of people gathered at Wilkes Bashford San Francisco this March for a shopping night to raise money during SFMOMA’s annual gala auction to benefi t the museum’s exhibitions.

ART MEETS FASHION

Exciting looks and Exciting looks and winning fashions filled the winning fashions filled the room; Tyler Mitchell and room; Tyler Mitchell and Stephanie O’Shana share Stephanie O’Shana share a hug; the lively auction a hug; the lively auction benefitted the museum’s benefitted the museum’s exhibits.exhibits.


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THE EVENT THAT WAS FABULOUS

A spirited raffle supported A spirited raffle supported WAS Foundation; brothers WAS Foundation; brothers Jacob and Jesse KovacsJacob and Jesse Kovacs


The WAS Foundation, striving to raise money in support of individuals and families struggling with Wiskott Aldrich Syndrome, partnered with Wilkes Bashford to host an evening to remember. Guests sipped signature Artá tequila cocktails, noshed on hors d’oeuvres and enjoyed an exclusive fashion presentation of the latest spring trends, all in support of the WAS Foundation.

Models strike a pose Models strike a pose in the latest fashion in the latest fashion trends; a fabulous time trends; a fabulous time was had by all.was had by all.

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live life beautifully

C E L E B R A T I N G 2 5 Y E A R S O F

M O D E R N C L A S S I C D E S I G N

W W W. T E M P L E S T C L A I R . C O M1 . 8 0 0 . 5 9 0 . 7 9 8 5


STEPPING OUTFOR SPRING


Guests turned out for an afternoon full of food, wine, fashion and fun at the Taj Campton Place Restaurant in San Francisco.

Jeff Garelick, our director of sales, educated women on all the key trends and must-haves for the season while dining on an amazing lunch by the newly Michelan-starred restaurant. If you haven’t been, pop over for lunch on your next visit to Wilkes.

Guests dined in style as Guests dined in style as models presented this models presented this year’s must-haves.year’s must-haves.

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Though fall was in the air, spring was everywhere at our annual Parca Luncheon and Fashion Show in Hillsborough, California. Rain and cold weather didn’t stop 400-plus women from coming out to support a great cause.

Luckily, just moments before the fashion show was due to start, the rain came to a halt and the show went on fl awlessly. Guests were “taken away” by the exciting clothes, jewelry and accessories for the season. Parca is a non-profi t organization striving to enrich the lives of those with developmental disabilities.

Thank you for inviting us to return last spring for a second time and thanks to all involved.

SUNNY SMILESFOR PARCA EVENT

Models on the runway showcase the Models on the runway showcase the latest fashions; sunny smiles from latest fashions; sunny smiles from Andrew Namdar-Mitchell, Jeff Garelick, Andrew Namdar-Mitchell, Jeff Garelick, Jack Mitchell and guests.Jack Mitchell and guests.


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kwiat.com

earrings from

the Kw

iat Legacy Collection


NAVAJO KNITS

“NATIVE AMERICAN-INSPIRED

KNITS AND PATTERNS ARE ONE OF

THE SEASON’S HOTTEST LOOKS.”

PLAIDS & TARTANS

“GO SCOTTISH AND DON’T BE

AFRAID TO MIX IT UP WITH A BOLD

NEW TWIST ON A CLASSIC.” ALL THAT SHIMMERS

“SEQUINS, STUDS, APPLIQUÉ...

EVEN SHINY METALLIC ACCESSO-

RIES. ADD A LAYER OF SPARKLE”

YOUR FAVORITE BUYERS

& ASSOCIATES PICK

THEIR FAVORITE TRENDS

FOR THE SEASON.&friends trends

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY: ROBERT NORMAN, STILL LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY: GUS CANTAVERO, STYLING: KATIE GROSS

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1. Brunello Cucinelli yoke waist full leather skirt

2. The Row quilted sleeve leather Bexton dress

3. Brunello Cucinelli East West tote

4. Bettye Muller wedge boot

5. Manolo Blahnik bow pump

6. Carven sleeve lace dress

7. Zhor & Nema beaded sweater

8. Nancy Gonzalez navy crocodile shoulder bag

&friends trends

’60S LADYLIKE “LACE, BOWS, DAINTY HANDBAGS AND LOTS OF

FRILL AND TRIM. AND DON’T BE AFRAID TO CHANNEL YOUR INNER JACKIE O.”

1 3

2

SHOW US YOUR LEATHER “MOVE OVER MOTORCYCLE

JACKETS. LEATHER IS TURNING UP IN SKIRTS, DRESSES, AS TRIM AND OF COURSE... WITH LACE!”

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Nadine Martin/Palo AltoHaving Fun with FashionSince 2003

Erikka Pascual/Palo AltoMaking Silicon Valley Stunning Since 2006


1. Kimberly McDonald geode and diamond bracelet

2. Ashley Pittman Alama bangles

3.Temple St. Clair vine cuff

5. Cole Haan riding boot

6. Mely’s toggle closure knit cape

7. Loro Piana shearling cape

8. Etro fur-trimmed toggle closure printed cape

OFF THE CUFF “WIDE INTRICATE BRACELETS, ORNATE CUFFS WITH

LOTS OF DETAIL. THINK CHUNKY... THE BOLDER THE BETTER!”

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CAPED CRUSADERS “CAPES, PONCHOS AND ANORAKS IN

GREAT FABRICS WITH FUN TRIMMINGS ARE CHIC AND CAN BE THROWN OVER ANYTHING!”

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Christine RobbinsBuying Fabulous Fashions forour Stores Since 1988

Karen Sussman/San FranciscoLoving Dressing You UpSince 1998


1. Luciano Barbera stand collar shirt

2. Michael Kors python print archive dress

3. Etro floral print blouse

4. Valentino Red ruffle front blouse

5. Manolo Blahnik d’Orsay sandal

6. Judith Leiber crystal clutch

7. Kwiat diamond studs

8. Jimmy Choo glitter slingback

&friends trends

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SHIRT ALERT “PRINT OR SOLID, MAN-STYLE OR FEMININE, CROPPED, RUFFLED

OR EVEN A GREAT MAXI SHIRTDRESS... HAVE FUN WITH SHIRTS THIS SEASON!”

SHINE ON “METALLICS, SEQUINS, PATENT LEATHER AND OF COURSE...

SOME BLING! ACCESSORIES THAT SHINE ADD ‘POP’ TO WOOL AND OTHER FALL FABRICS.

James Schmedel/Palo Alto Making Women Shine for 12 Years!

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7

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Lotta Velger/San FranciscoKeeping San Francisco in StyleSince 2006


”

1. Luciano Barbera suede shirt

2. Ermenegildo Zegna reversible coat

3. Gimos calf blouson

4. Edward Armah “pocket circles”

5. Incotex washed cords

6. Bontoni lace-ups

7. Loro Piana cashmere Roadster

Joe Durst/San FranciscoKeeping You Well-Dressed Since 1986

3

&friends trends

Robert Simmons/Palo AltoMaking Sure You Look Sharp Since 2001

MIX UP YOUR OUTERWEAR “EVERYDAY FOR

MONTHS, YOU’LL LIKELY NEED A COAT! OUR NEW ARRIVALS OFFER IMPECCABLE PERFORMANCE AND

STYLE. ONE COAT WILL NOT TAKE YOU EVERYWHERE... MIX IT UP!”

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2

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COUNTRY GENTLEMAN “TREAT YOURSELF TO A SUPPLE

SUEDE SHIRT, SOFT-AS-VELVET CORDS, A SUMPTUOUS SWEATER OR SOME PICTURE PERFECT LEATH-

ER SHOES. COMFORTABLE ELEGANCE IS THE WAY TO GO.”

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FASHION Q & A JEWELRY DESIGNER KIMBERLY MCDONALD

KIMBERLY MCDONALD ON BEGINNINGS, ADORNING THE FIRST LADYAND THE POWER OF ROCKS...

How did you get started? Since I was a child in Asheville, NC, I loved collecting all kinds of agates and cool stones. As a curator of private jewelry collections, I started designing pieces for clients with stones I acquired for them. I wanted to start collecting jewelry myself, but I didn’t see anything really unique in my price range... everything had a mass-produced feel. So one day, I made myself a pair of geode earrings. A friend of mine off ered to buy them off of me, but I didn’t want to sell them. Then she made me an off er I couldn’t refuse and as they say, the rest is history.

What attracted you to working with geodes?I love natural materials and geodes are an incredible creation of nature… agates with quartz crystallization inside them. They conduct energy and have raw appeal. We don’t do anything to them. We just clean and slice them, so they’re as close to coming from the earth as possible. Each is one of a kind. Each has its own little personality and every person will be attracted to a diff erent one.

Your business has soared in just 3½ years. Who are some of the celebrities wearing your pieces?We’ve been really lucky that so many amazing, recognizable people have responded to the collection and ask to wear our pieces to special events. One of the most exciting things was Sex and the City 2. The fi lm is such an iconic fashion ensemble and our pieces are in just about every major scene, plus SJP and Kim Catrell wore them on the red carpet. Mrs. Obama has also been wearing my pieces a lot this year. It is exciting that she has chosen them as she truly has access to everything!

What are 5 things in you can’t live without?My chihuahuas ( Dad Oliver, Mama Gracie, babies Linus, Jackson, Angus and Otto); music (from Kanye to Rascal Flatts. Adele, Usher, Puccini… Music is an integral part of life for me.); good champagne (pink, preferably); rocks (geodes, opals, agates,

diamonds); and friends (the ones that know you at your worst and still stick around). I split my time between New York for work and Los Angeles for peace of mind. It’s a production to travel with all of my chihuahuas, but I can’t live without them!

What is your favorite place you go to escape it all? I adore Kona on the Big Island in Hawaii. It is so beautiful and unspoiled and you can swim with sea turtles, which come up everyday at the same time! I love them and have designed a Sea Turtle collection, which serves to raise funds and awareness for the plight of endangered species through Conservation International, an organization that I strongly believe in.

Who are your favorite clothing designers and which is the best designer to pair your jewelry with? Missoni and Brunello Cucinelli... I love to wear them personally and I love the way they look with my jewelry.

“ IT IS SO EXCITING THAT MRS. OBAMA HAS CHOSEN SEVERAL OF MY PIECES AS SHE TRULY HAS ACCESS TO EVERYTHING!”

Big

ryday ovegned

PHOTO CREDITS: MATT M

URPHY, THERESE MCKEON AND BRUCE SOYEZ-BERNARD


“ I SPLIT MY TIME BETWEEN NEW YORK AND LOS ANGELES... IT’S A PRODUCTION TO TRAVEL WITH ALL OF MY BABIES, BUT I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT THEM!”

Who living or not do you most wish to design a piece of jewelry for? I honestly don’t aspire to design for anyone famous. To me, the most exciting sales are when I see someone really connecting with a piece I’ve created. The stones each have their own energy and when I see a woman fall in love with one, it is moving that a piece she connects with will become an heirloom for her children... that she can wear it over the years and enjoy it as part of her collection.

What have you found special about working with the Mitchells Family of Stores?The Mitchells get retail better than most anyone. They have a real gem in Jennifer Celli, my buyer, who is pretty much unparalleled in the business. She has incredible integrity and standards in working with designers. I never have to worry about looking in the cases and seeing a less expensive imitation of my work, which goes on all the time. As a designer that makes me very comfortable. To me, a good store is an edit of what’s in the market. They see everything and whittle it down to what’s worth presenting to the client. It’s fun to go into their stores, it feels like a home, like a family. They know kids’ names, what schools they go to, if a relative is sick. Their stores have an atmosphere you don’t fi nd anywhere else.

“ EACH GEODE IS ONE OF A KIND. EACH HAS ITS OWN LITTLE PERSONALITY AND EVERY PERSON WILL BE ATTRACTED TO A DIFFERENT ONE.”


AKRIS

LUCIANO BARBERA

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AKRIS

With the royal wedding not far behind us, what better way to savor the spirit than with a romantic jaunt to a real castle?

The British Isles are spotted with spectacular castles, former and current homes to the landed gentry. Today, many house world-class resorts, welcoming modern day lords and ladies from around the world to enjoy the beauty and lifestyle of a bygone era…

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AKRIS

BOGNER


AKRIS

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI


AKRIS

LORO PIANA


AKRIS

J. MENDEL


AKRIS

ETON


AKRIS

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA


AKRIS

STEFANO RICCI


AKRIS

ETRO


AKRIS

STORIES: faraway

AGNONA


AKRISBRUNELLO CUCINELLI

KIMBERLY MCDONALD


AKRIS

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Queen of the Castle

Embody modern glamour in a long dress with an even longer slit. This season, women’s fashion is creative and glamorous. Add some sparkle. Experiment with layering. Explore assymetry. Wear lots of chunky jewelry... and don’t forget some fur!


AKRIS

AKRIS


AKRIS

MICHAEL KORS


AKRISCOLE HAAN

LAGOS


AKRIS

FINAMORE


AKRISCOLE HAANgiants who walked theearth with heavy footstepsAKRISAKRISCOLE HAANCOLE HAANgiants who walked the nts who walked the COLE HAANCOLCOLE HAANCOL

KITON


AKRIS

PAMELA ROLAND


AKRIS

PAUL MORELLI


AKRIS

VALENTINO


AKRIS

YIGAL AZROUEL


AKRIS

BRIONI


AKRIS

INCOTEX

Squire for the Lady

For fall, men’s fashions feel as good as they look. Keep it cozy in suede shoes, yummy cords, comfy sweaters and soft outerwear.

Add just the right twist of style to all the great textures of fall with a great plaid sportcoat, a striped or checked shirt and a killer tie.


AKRIS

SARTORIA PARTENOPEA


AKRIS

LORO PIANA


AKRIS

AGAVE


ANTONELLO PAGLIUCA BECOMES FIRST TAILOR IN THE U.S. TO BE “KITON CERTIFIED”!

At Wilkes Bashford, we’re always striving to learn and become the best at what we do. So who was I to turn down Massimo’s challenge (or putting Antonello up to his challenge) of becoming the first U.S. tailor to be “Kiton-Certified?” The Kiton floor is an exciting place to learn. True tailors, they

each can work at any station... sewing on arms, stitching lapels, etc. They conduct their own quality checks with no overseer. If someone, makes a mistake, they will hear about it! Unlike companies that claim you need 300 stitches in a lapel, at Kiton they evaluate each garment and fabric weight.

Everything is a judgement call. For Wilkes Master Tailor Antonello Pagliuca, it was a dream come true. Born in Naples to a father who was a tailor, after some quick “Italian Geography,” he found he went to the same tailoring school as Kiton’s pattern maker. Antonello learned their cutter’s

technique of tracing patterns, met with the pattern maker, even the woman who translates our orders into Italian. He spent three full days at The Kiton Factory, getting a great feel for each step. So now we have America’s only Kiton-Certified tailor! Come in and say “congratulazione!”

“Enjoying life... and being diff erent... this is Kiton,” warmly proclaims Kiton chairman Massimo Bizzochi. Indeed, under Bizzochi’s infectiously upbeat stewardship, at Kiton, they certainly get it right. From their famed “vault” with thousands of new and vintage Kiton fabrics, to tailors that are encouraged “not to rush,” spending 25 to 50 hours handstiching each K-model jacket, perfection is a way of life. Having always wanted to make a “pilgrimage” to the famed Naples factory, I accompanied our Master Tailor, Antonello Pagliuca, on a dual mission: to have Antenollo trained by Kiton’s illustrious tailors and to hand-pick and bring back over a hundred bolts of sophisticated “Wilkes Bashford-looking” fabrics to off er our customers. Walking station to station, I saw huge smiles and a pride in craftsmanship rarely seen today. It dawned on me that compared to other factories (and I’ve been to a lot!) these people were HAPPY!

Maybe best of all: the Kiton factory has their own chef on site. Like any factory, it’s important to the workfl ow that everybody break at once. So, when the lunch horn blows, everybody stops and they all head up to the “cantina” where they cook a fresh meal everyday—meat, pasta, bread, cheese, wine, espresso...

Massimo’s outlook on life is simple: Enjoy it, be who you are, be kind and have fun. He is truly Kiton’s pride and joy and we are blessed to work with him. Our trip to Naples was one of a kind, much mirroring the Kiton product!

—Tyler Mitchell

NOTES FROM ITALY AN ADVENTURE IN FASHION

EDUCATION & INSPIRATION...(NOT TO MENTION INCREDIBLE FOOD!)

OUR PILGRIMAGETO KITON

Antonello Pagliuca, Massimo Bizzochi, Salvatore Tranchino, Tyler Mitchell


“ MY MISSION WAS TO BRING BACK OVER 100 BOLTS OF SOPHISTICATED ‘WILKES-BASHFORD-STYLE’ FABRICS... OUR CUSTOMERS LOVE TO DRAPE THE BOLTS OVER THEIR SHOULDERS AND GET AN IDEA OF HOW A JACKET WOULD LOOK. IT’S A LOT EASIER THAN WORKING FROM A TINY SWATCH!”


KEY AREAS TO FOCUS ON WHEN WORKING WITH YOUR TAILOR:

JACKET

Shoulders If the shoulder doesn’t fit right, you shouldn’t be buying the suit. It is the first measure of a well-fitting suit. Today’s shoulder should be fitted, not too bulky and not too tight.

Lapels Today, lapels are a bit narrower and they should always lay flat. Have the tailor make sure they meet the tips of your shirt collar.

Waist If you have broad shoulders and a narrow waist, a suit will be more flattering if you have the waist taken in, which may involve adding darts.

Sleeves Your suit sleeve should be a bit shorter than it used to be, not below your wrist. Have it shortened so that about half an inch of shirt sleeve shows.

Jacket Length The jacket should fall so that the bottom hits the tip of your thumb.

PANTS

Leg Width Pant legs should not be baggy nor should they be so tight they’re constrictive. For a slimmer silhouette, discuss taking the leg in if you think it’s too loose.

Leg Break Some men prefer no break at all, but many feel this makes the pant feel a bit too short. Most prefer a slight break so that the pant rests on the top of the shoe.

While it’s a wonderful luxury to have a completely custom suit made for you from the bottom up, you can enjoy a “custom fi t” from any suit we sell, if you are willing to work with our tailors. Having a suit you’ve purchased at any of our stores tailored is a complimentary service we provide, so why not try it? Our tailors are up-to-date on the latest styles, cuts and fi ts, which they execute with an old-world commitment to the craft that we believe is second to none.

Following are some guidelines on what to work on when “customizing” your suit!

TAILOR’S CORNER IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT FIT

A CUSTOM FIT FROM AN OFF-THE-RACK SUIT? JUST ASKYOUR TAILOR.


IS IT SELF-EXPRESSION OR NARCISSISM? EITHER WAY, DESIGNER HOTELSAND RESTAURANTS ARE FASHION’S NEWEST HOT SPOTS. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Haute HOSPITALITY

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T H E U L T I M A T E T R O U S E R


n the 1970s fashion designers weresatisfied to have their namesscrawled on the back pockets ofyour jeans. Over the ensuingdecade, they discovered a way toput their stamp on everything fromfragrance, sunglasses and leathergoods to furniture and bedding.Now they want you to experience

their own lavish lifestyles by envelopingyou in their signature luxury hotel suitesand posh dining rooms.

The trend escalated this past year whennearly a dozen new hotels were auto-graphed by top designers—from GiorgioArmani’s sleek, ambitious Armani HotelDubai and Bulgari’s bucolic Balineseretreat, to Missoni’s stylish Scottish hide-away and Christian Lacroix’s Frenchboulangerie-turned-bed and breakfast.

It’s not only the newest way to propa-gate their names: designers insist theevanescent hotel or dining experienceacts as a kind of “live-in portfolio” of theirwork.

Giorgio Armani features custom-madefurniture and decorative objects from hisArmani/Casa home collection in hisnamesake hotels, the second of which isscheduled to open in Milan early nextyear. “I wanted to see how the collectionwould look when applied to real spaces,”says the designer, who adds that the ideagives hotel guests an opportunity to sam-

ple the furnishings in a living situationbefore investing in them for their ownhomes. Recognizable designer fabrics andfurnishings also encourage guests toform an emotional connec-tion with the hotel—andthe brand.

And while hotelsoffer the opportuni-ty to live likeArmani or Versacefor days or evenweeks, restaurantscan offer the same“lifestyle experience” in amatter of hours. Take RalphLauren, whose fashion foraysrange from the highbrow sartorial chic ofLondon’s Savile Row to the RockyMountain highs of Colorado. InsideRalph’s, located in the designer’s Parisstore, Lauren brings his idealized world tolife. The chic eatery is infused with hissignature British-Americana stamp, fromthe vintage leather seating and equestri-an-themed artwork right down to themenu, which includes beef raised onLauren’s own RRL Ranch. “The story ofthe menu is like the classic film AnAmerican in Paris,” says Lauren. “Thefood is genuinely American, but set in amood that is genuinely international.”

In a more flashy setting, design duoDomenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

imbued their Milanese restaurant Goldwith a mix of exotic materials—pink andgray arabesque-patterned marble, highgloss steel, gold leather—that they consid-

er to be architectural equivalents oftheir clothing.

While today’s designerswould like you to believe theyinvented the haute hospitali-ty trend, that honor actuallygoes to Pierre Cardin, whobought the fashionable

French bistro Maxims in 1981and has subsequently turned it

into an international brand. “I sus-pect if you look hard enough you could

find Pierre Cardin’s name on a screwdriv-er,” jokes American designer ToddOldham, whose own foray into the hospi-tality game started in 1999 with the open-ing of The Hotel and its adjoining Wishrestaurant in Miami, and continued thisyear with the christening of 20 new suites.Oldham is now in negotiations to designa hotel in Chicago.

“It’s very smart of developers to findtastemakers from other [creative] areaswho can enhance the hotel experience,”says Oldham, who believes fashiondesigners are naturally more sensitive toaesthetics, form and function than typicalhotel designers. “Because we tend tofocus on making you look good, we canalso make you look good in a room.”

Previous page,clockwise from

top left: BottegaVeneta for the St.

Regis in Rome;Dolce & Gabbana

Gold restaurantin Milan;

the bar at Gold Below, left:

Cavalli Club,Florence

Right: RalphLauren’s Ralph’srestaurant, Paris

DESIGNER FABRICSAND FURNISHINGS

ENCOURAGE GUESTS TOFORM AN EMOTIONAL

CONNECTION WITH THEHOTEL—AND THE BRAND.

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Fabulous basics are the building blocks of a great wardrobe and are also at the

forefront of fashion! Here are14 timeless essentials for fall...

Wide BeltThrow this crocodile belt by L.A.I. over a sweater, a blouseor a dress and add instant style.

Riding BootNot just for horses... a great riding boot, like this one by Duccio Del Ducca, never goes out of style.

are the building blocks abe and are also at theobashion! Here arefaessentials for fall...e

Riding Not just horses..great ridboot, likone by DDel Ducnever goof style.

Not Your Grandma’s Silk ScarfAvant Toi takes vintage Hermès and Ferragamo silk scarves and lines them with cashmere, each one an original.

Diamond Hoopsby Kwiat. Just the right amount of sparkle for dress up or everyday.

Robe CoatIt’s time to replace your old wool coat! Cashmere Robe Coat by Fleurette.

Unconstructed Blazer by Anissejlife. Knit blazers are less constricting and much cozier than their structured counterparts.

BASIC Instincts

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Long White Shirtby Walter Voulez.Ideal to throw on with leggings or skinny pants and a great pair of boots.

“Go to” ToteGo to work, go to dinner, go on a trip... the Gia Satchel by Michael Kors is the “it bag” that goes everywhere.

Anything CamelThe “it” basic colorfor shoes, bags, clothing, outerwear, everywhere. Shown: Michael Kors

CozyCashmeres3 great basic styles: crew, v-neck and turtle in 3 essential colors by Kinross.

IconicAmuletDesigned to ward off evil, once you own Temple St. Clair’s crystal amulet, you’ll fi nd it hard to take it off!

Leopard SlingbackWho says neutral has to be boring?A perfect alternative to the classic pump by Manolo Blahnik.

LeopardSlingback

pp

Who says neutral has to be boring?A perfect alternativeto the classic pump by Manolo Blahnik.

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WHYSTYLE MATTERSMaking a good impressionhas never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier!

Do you want to look moresuccessful? More attractive? Sexier?More sophisticated? The fi rst place to start is with yourclothes. Studies show that well-dressed men get higher paying jobs, enjoy better social status and are

What does your wardrobe say about you? In the business world or out of it? Attuned to what’s current? Appreciator of fi ne quality?

more attractive to the opposite sex. While saving you money,dressing in dated or unfl atteringclothing can cost you a lot. Following are simple tips on howto spruce your look, because yes,style matters!

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BUILDING A GREATWARDROBE IS SIMPLERTHAN YOU THINK.

WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL

FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS)

CAN BE BUILT.

1. Dressy Casual 2. Sartorial 3. Sporty Casual

simple updates forall your modes...


Plaid ClassicA great neutralplaid adds instantstyle to a pair ofjeans and movesgracefully fromoffi ce to dinner.

Color StatementA bolder plaidin rich fall colorsadds excitementto solid basics and layers well with sweaters.

Russ Mitchell

THE ESSENTIAL SPORTCOATTHE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL

Dressy Casual

No single item is more effective in transforming

a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes

a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and

concealing all the right body parts...


UnconstructedA soft, unlinedjacket is anindispensablebasic this season.It looks casuallyelegant and fi ts like a second skin!

CollegiateCorduroyToasty warm andversatile, corduroyhas come backwith a vengeance.

Soft CashmereUnconstructedand elegant, itworks with dresspants, jeans andeverything inbetween.


The IntellectualAdd a sweaterto a windowpane wool suit for a super smart look.

The Young TurkA well-cut dark suit can take youeverywhere... and a great wool tie isan easy way toadd some personality.

The PlayerA fun shirt (withouta tie) with an open suit jacket is arefreshing upgradeto jeans.

Sartorial

FITThe New

Slimmer

Silhouette

is here

to stay

From a fi rst interview to the corner offi ce,

one properly fi tting neutral suit in a

transitional fabric is an essential basic for

the well-dressed man.

(NEW)


The StatesmanHerringbone inwarm fall tonesplus a buttonedvest spellsconfi dence.

The MogulNavy pinstripesuit, blue shirt,red tie, slim cut...need we saymore?

whichSUITSyou?


Sporting Event With ClientA quilted, fi tted,double-breastedjacket is as warmas it is fl attering.

Weekend OutingCold, blusterydays can be facedin style with anelegant update tothe classic parka.


Soccer SidelinesThrow a greatscarf over a versatile pulloverand be the best looking dad onthe fi eld.

Country DriveGo antiquing andlunching in style ina chocolate suededriving jacket,also perfect foreveryday.

Sporty Casual

RELAXEDSTYLE

Whether it’s

the weekend,

or you just

want it to

feel that way.


Green visions abound in thegardenscapes of the Dublincountryside. By David Lyon

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When filmmakers want to evoke the formal lush countryside of GeorgianIreland or the mythical Celtic landscape of dappled glades, they train theircameras on Powerscourt Estate, one of the greenest corners of the EmeraldIsle. Set on Dublin’s doorstep in County Wicklow, the gated lands original-ly surrounded a 13th-century castle that helped guard the city. In 1731, thelord of Powerscourt upgraded to the iconic Georgian manor that still occu-pies the high ground, gazing across a rich array of gardens and over asmall lake to the hunched backs of the Wicklow Mountains.

The 19th-centuryPepperpot Tower was

modeled on a peppermillbelonging to the seventh

Viscount Powerscourt,Mervyn Wingfield.

28 M_TRAVEL_Ireland.qxp:Travel_Ireland 8/6/11 3:58 PM Page 74

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For full immersion in the lifestyle of lat-ter-day Irish gentry, retire to the Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt, where you can nursea tumbler of Tyrconnell single-malt Irishwhiskey on the terrace. The 200-roomresort opened in 2007 and is just a five-minute saunter from the Powerscourtmanor. Its stately Palladian architectureand Georgian-inspired décor are comple-mented by the sybaritic ESPA spa andinvisible (but indispensable) contempo-rary technology.

Concierges can advise guests on the

best woodland hikes and runs and pro-vide maps and electronic keys to the hid-den, gated parts of the estate. They canalso arrange horseback riding through thecountryside, golf on either ofPowerscourt’s two 18-hole courses, or flyfishing for sea-run trout on the RiverDargle.

Dublin is only a half hour away, makingit possible to combine the rustic pleasuresof the Irish countryside with the urbanrush of the Irish capital. It’s worth makinga pilgrimage to the august neo-Gothicgrounds of Trinity College to see theBook of Kells displayed in the library.Created in the 9th century, this stunningvolume of the Gospels is one of the earli-est surviving illuminated manuscriptsand an Irish national treasure.

The Irish also treasure the outsized per-sonalities of their artists. At the NationalGallery of Ireland, one section is dedicat-ed to the Yeats clan: portraitist JohnButler Yeats and his sons, poet and some-times painter William Butler Yeats andmodern Expressionist master Jack Yeats.The gallery backs onto Merrion Square,one of Dublin’s finest Georgian squares,where rows of elegant townhouses are dis-tinguished by differently colored doorsand hand-burnished brass fixtures. OscarWilde lived at 1 Merrion Square from 1855to 1876, and should you wonder where he

wet his whistle, a good bet might beO’Donoghue’s, a pub established in 1792only a block away. The barkeeps still pulla fine pint of Guinness, and the room isfamous for its nightly live music.

The Ritz-Carlton has its own pub,McGills, where the Albaquirky Turkeysplay a driving version of traditional Irishmusic. The resort’s gastronomic jewel,though, is its casual fine-dining restau-rant, Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt, theLondon-based chef’s first Irish venture.Conceived as a farm-to-fork venue relying

intensely on Irish products, the restaurantprovides a literal taste of the countrysidein a country about the size of WestVirginia. The lamb is raised less than 20minutes away, the vegetables come froman organic farm a mile down the road. Asfor the mushrooms, the kitchen staff for-ages them in the woods and meadows ofPowerscourt.

This page, top:A fountain in

Walled Gardenat Powerscourt

Gardens Center: Gordon

Ramsay’sCounty Wicklow

lamb withpotato galette

Bottom: TheMountain View

Suite at Ritz-Carlton

Powerscourt

YOU COULD SPEND DAYS AT POWERSCOURT SAVORING THE IRISH GENIUS FORLANDSCAPE GARDENING OR WANDERING LIKE MYTHIC KING FERGUS IN THE GENTLEWILDS OF THE WOODLANDS AND MEADOWS OF THE 1,000 ACRE ESTATE.

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COLD COMFORTA

s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time forwinter sports, a cozy new coat and aheart-warming cocktail. After ice skating,

cross country skiing or snowshoeing at theLake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondackmountains, guests keep out the chill with thehotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. BartenderLori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater,shares the recipe for this snug concoction.Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz.Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of NewYork State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mixvodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrupin a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fash-ioned glass. Top with cream and garnish witha mint leaf. Cheers!L

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Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Afew steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slightrise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene isquiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi

monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brillianttuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member ofHistoric Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from theoriginal dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditionalCretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as iftime had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.

GREEK REVIVAL

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COUNTRY CHICI

n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eight-room house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel JohnBowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s

the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection ofEnglish and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular withantiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) toshop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, JayneThompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’sRestaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients andpaired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning diningroom filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-centu-ry Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with EnglishIronstone china.

GILT TRIPA

long with golf, rock climbing and fly fish-ing, guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at thefoot of the Rockies in Colorado Springs

can go for the gold. The sparkling festivitiesbegin in a chauffeured Hummer (gold-fleckedhandcrafted chocolates and a bottle ofChampagne are provided), which brings you tothe Money Museum. Here, caterers serve din-ner in the Bass Gallery, where over $20 milliondollars worth of paper money and rare coins,including the most comprehensive collectionof American gold coinage in existence, isstored. Between courses, the curator of themuseum joins guests and passes around sever-al million dollars in coins and notes. TheBroadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminates at thehotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef Rémy Fünfrock, and director ofwine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.

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A STRETCHOF BEACHA

mong the many trendy—and usuallypricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s onevery stylish event that’s amazingly inex-

pensive. For just $5, residents and visitors,serious yoga practitioners and first timersalike, can join certified instructors for “BeachYoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ulti-mate South Beach insider happening, whichattracts vacationing Broadway stars and fash-ion editors, among others, has been meetingevery day at sunrise and sunset for the past 12years. Take water and a towel, and spend anhour reaching new horizons.

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ITALY’S AMBASSADOR OFSTYLE BY WILLIAM KISSEL

LUCIANOBARBERA

28 M & WILKES_PROFILE_Luciano Barbera.qxp:Profile_Luciano 7/22/11 11:14 AM Page 78

Luciano Barbera always wears white for tennis, prefersdress slacks on the driving range, and would neverconsider putting on a colorful, patterned shirt toattend a dinner party. “Can you imagine some-one going to dinner in a fancy collar andchecks and stripes?” he once said incred-ulously. “It’s not possible. It will not

match with the situation.” Barbera appreciates the established rules of prop-

er dressing, but the dapper designer’s passion alsoextends to the fabrics and fine craftsmanship of hisclothing and the factories where they are made,which must be in Italy, of course.

This last mandate has proven a bitproblematic, because currentItalian law allows clothingmakers to put ‘Made in Italy’on their garments even ifonly one simple element,such as adding buttons orsewing on a label, is donein that country. Like mosttrue Italian designers, heis strongly opposed toregulations that inten-tionally deceive theconsumer, and he has

been a pioneer in the efforts tochange those laws.

“Italian culture, quality andstyle should be promoted inthe right way and not getjeopardized by other cloth-ing producers outside thecountry. The customer hasthe right to know thetruth,” he insists.Barbera has good rea-son to be proud ofItalian style and pro-duction. Italy is unquestionably the producer ofthe finest luxury fashion in the world. Barbera’s col-lection, very much a product of the man himself, isno exception. Understated and deluxe, like Italiancashmere, is how friends and colleagues describeboth Barbera and his label. Indeed, admits the design-er, “I’ve always been considered the natural ambassa-dor of everything we produce.”

This fall, what Barbera has produced is a trilogy ofdesigns inspired by the years 1930, 1940 and 1971—three significant high periods in 20th century fashion.He hopes to entice more 30- and 40-somethings to classic

style by creating hybrid products a man can wear in unexpectedways. (To wit, a tech-inspired down vest is faced in super 150snavy chalk stripe suit fabric to deliberately blur the lines

between casual and dress.)Barbera’s suits, while clearly influenced by old-world

English tailoring, are designed in the Milanesemanner that stresses softly padded, narrow shoul-ders and a gently tapered waist. Yet most of hissuits and sportcoats are made not in Milan but in

southern Italy, by many of the same Neapolitan tai-lors producing clothing for other world-renowned

brands. “They have a saying in Naples: ‘It’s like a sec-ond skin.’ This is exactly how a well-made suit should

fit,” he says.Unlike other bespoke suit makers who empha-

size the hand-make of their garments,Barbera’s clothing reflects a perfectbalance between man and machine.“You can have a very strong suit madeentirely by hand that is ugly becausethe person who made it has no styleor sense of proportions. So what is theappeal?” asks Barbera. “The key is tohave the ability to generate harmonyin the garment but to make yoursuit where they are used to makingthe best suits.”

What makes the LucianoBarbera collection so distinctiveis more than just the tailoring. “Ireally consider the fabric theroot of my clothing,” saysBarbera, who started out as a

textile designer. Not only are hisfabrics exclusive to his designs,

they are all developed in house atthe Lanificio Carlo Barbera mill.

Another important attribute ofthe Barbera line is the attention

to detail he lavishes on everyobject. “It’s important thatevery single piece in the col-

lection offers something special,” adds the designer,unable to name a favorite design from his label.“It’s like asking a man which is your favorite child;it simply can’t be done,” he says.

Among Barbera’s favorite expressions: sprez-zatura, the Italian word for detachment, but hesays a better way to think of it is quiet confidenceor low-key style. “The most forceful statement isunderstatement,” he says. “It is the philosophybehind everything I do.”

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Opposite page:Luciano Barbera

This page: Amen’s look from

Barbera’s fall2011 collection

Understated and deluxe, like Italian cashmere, is howfriends and colleagues describe both Barbera and his label.

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S THE RICHESTLOOKS ARE

SEASONAL

BOB MITCHELL ON WHY EVERY GREAT WARDROBE SHOULD INCLUDE SOME GREATSEASONAL PIECES...

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJECSTYLING BY WENDY MCNETT

HAIR & MAKEUP BY MACO TESTA

hile 50 percent of your wardrobe can be “year round,” 50 percent should be seasonal. Cold weather fabrics—like fl annels, tweeds,

corduroys, suedes and velvets—provide a depth, variety and personality to dressing that can’t be matched by less distinctive transitional fabrics. For fall 2011, we’re seeing a big comeback of the gray fl annel suit, made famous by JFK in

the 1960’s. We’re also seeing a big resurgence of tweed and herringbone, for dressing up or casual. Also more popular than ever is layering... chunky sweaters, wool knit ties and a beautiful heavier sportcoat are a great way to bring a pair of jeans to life. So, pile on the cashmeres, sweaters and scarfs. Winter, come and get us!

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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI


SEASONAL FABRICS ARE MORE TEXTURAL& UNIQUE.


opposite ZEGNAabove SUIT: SAMUELSOHN, TIE & SHIRT: HUGO BOSS


LEFT — JACKET: DESIGNER NAME,RIGHT — SWEATER: DESIGNER NAME, JACKET: DESIGNER NAMEopposite BLAZER: SAMUELSOHN, SWEATER: LORO PIANA

above ISAIA


PILE ON WARM, CHUNKY LAYERS FOR A SOPHISTICATEDLOOK.


t’s a crisp fall day, perfect fora bike ride in the park orbrunch with friends at an out-door cafe. But thanks to theFrench Culinary Institute, Iam instead joining 200 otherfood enthusiasts at the thirdannual New York Culinary

Experience. The event raisesmoney for the The Future ChefsScholarship Fund, enabling aspir-ing chefs to attend culinary insti-

tutes. It’s also a unique opportuni-ty to spend two days with theworld’s most renowned chefs.

For foodies, tasting a truly greatdish is pure bliss. But cooking sideby side with illustrious chefs likeTodd English, Morimoto, MarcusSamuelsson and Jacques Torres,among many others, is ecstacy.

Participants attend two classeseach day. Between morning andafternoon sessions, lunch seminars

feature conversations with keyexperts. In the evening, wine recep-tions and tastings provide yetanother opportunity to get up-closeand personal with culinary heroes.

Unlike other “fantasy foodcamps” I’ve attended, these classeswere truly interactive. For starters,a pastry class with Gina di Palma,who insists that baking need notbe an exact science: even if resultsvary, it will likely still be delicious!

PURE HEAVEN FOR A FASHION FOODIE. BY SUSAN F. SIDOR

COOKING WITHTHE STARS

This page, left: David Bouley withhis students. Right: Pan roastedduck. Opposite page, left: ToddEnglish slices stuffed turkeybreast. Right: English tops off hispumpkin lasagna.The next New York CulinaryExperience will be held on April28th and 29th, 2012. [email protected] to request moreinformation.

food

WINE RECEPTIONS AND TASTINGS PROVIDE AN OPPORTUNITY TOGET UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CULINARY HEROES.

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Next, bouillabaisse with AlainSahlac, Dean of the FrenchCulinary Institute, a warm, gentleFrenchman who instructed us inthe fine art of putting lobsters tosleep. Then we prepared pan roast-ed duck and asparagus with Comtécheese foam with David Bouley, afan of healthful artisanal cooking.

My final class was Thanksgiving-themed, led by superstar chef ToddEnglish, whose demonstrationswere entertaining and informativewith a side order of dry humor. Tobreak with the whole-bird tradition,we made a cornbread stuffed bone-less roast turkey breast (and eventook home ingredients for our ownThanksgiving feasts).

After spending my entire careeraround fashion’s who’s who, thesewonderful food masters havebecome my new rockstars. I remaintheir ever-devoted groupie.

PUMPKIN LASAGNARecipe by Todd EnglishServes 2

Ingredients:1 sugar pumpkin7 sheets blanched rosemary pasta(substitute 7 sheets fresh pasta)1/2 cup mascarpone cheese1/4 cup ground amaretti cookie1/4 cup ground almonds1/2 cup parmesan cheese, gratedbutternut squash sauce watercress, for garnish

For the Butternut Squash Sauce:(Yields 1 quart)1 butternut squash1 sprig rosemary, choppedsalt and pepper, to taste2 cups half and half2 cups heavy cream2 oz. butter1/4 cup maple syrup

Directions: Peel the squash and dice into largepieces. Place the squash in sauce

pot and add the liquids and rose-mary. Slowly cook until the squashbecomes soft. Drain off the liquidand reserve. Place the squash intoblender. Add just enough liquid tocover, then blend and add butter.Adjust seasoning and consistency.

Next, slice top off pumpkin, scoopout seeds and any membrane.Clean seeds and toast separately.Roast pumpkin at 400°F for 40minutes, or until inside meat iscooked. Turn oven down to 350°F.Toss pasta in butternut squashsauce. Lay one sheet of pasta inthe bottom of the pumpkin. Spread1-2 tablespoons of mascarponecheese on top, then sprinkle alayer of cookie, almond andparmesan. Continue layering untilpumpkin is filled. Top with parme-san cheese and bake 30 minutes.

Garnish with watercress and serve.

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y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans inthe world; that’s still our mission today,” assertsAgave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eightjeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a recordfor us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retiredfrom the business 16 years ago to raise our sonJacob) is back as designer of women’s. We’ve

become a true luxury label focused on USA-madequality product.”

How do you compete with bigger brands?I knew the secret of making the best jeans was inthe denim. I found the best denims from boutiquemills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partner-ing with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with pro-duction and laundry in L.A. that made jeans forLevi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentical-

ly and accurately. Agave stands for the highestquality jeans, made authentically in the USA.

Our customers know this and appreciate our commitment.

How tough is it to work with your spouse?I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Twocompanies ago we started working together: I was theowner and she was doing production. We hit tough timesand had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged meto do the design myself; she actually taught me how. I

found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying toget her back to work with me for a long time. Last September,

our son Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t

compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.

We have the same taste level but complementary skills. Weshare values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.

What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011?The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo,black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excite-ment is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocketmodels, washed down to a beautiful patina.

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Above: Jeff andLauren ShaferLeft: Items fromAgave’s men’sand women’s fallcollections

A DECADE OF AGAVE

AUGUST 2012 WILLMARK THE 10-YEAR

ANNIVERSARY OFAMERICA’S COOLEST

DENIM. BY KARENALBERG GROSSMAN

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At Wilkes Bashford375 Sutter Street . San Francisco

415.291.9480


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SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERS TO LIFE’S QUESTIONS AREN’T IN YOURBRAIN. THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET. BY JAMES RARUSA former boss, the president of aluxury apparel firm, used to screamat me: “You know what your problem is? You think toomuch! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. I playmenswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate,though I’m not a doctor.

Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants filltheir shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, trans-forming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxu-ry. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, theclothes he pulls out each morning helping to determineif people will buy into his personality, business acumen,credibility, or whatever he’s selling.

I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneledcloset. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenlyspaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows,his belts and ties were arranged meticulously.

I thought about this client, a bachelor with a highfinance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair,beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters!Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect speci-men, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics,and not one cashmere knit!

I looked around his spectacular apartment with itsexpansive views of Central Park and envisioned thewomen he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceivedwardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud.

Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favoritestore as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazzsong with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensionsto help showcase your own unique qualities.

Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this musicmetaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen two-and four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in mas-culine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is nowbalanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks,V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces nowdouble as sportswear. His love life has improved, too:wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knitcardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams.

When people ask me what I do for a living, I oftensay, “I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so thatwhen they get dressed each day, they’re energizedand inspired.” To which they usually respond, “Youthink too much! But let me ask you a question. Can Iwear…?”

essa

y

CLOSET THERAPY

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BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need assistance, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like to see you looking your best, down to the details.

GIFT CARDSA Wilkes Bashford gift card is the gift that always fi ts! Our gift cards are available for purchase in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the gift card up and ship it to the recipient for you!

CLOSET CLEANINGIn order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we off er our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand, to provide any fi tting or re-adjustments you may need. And if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.

EXPERTISEOur long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising them on all clothing and accessory matters. They are willing to go the extra mile to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one, and they’ll even take a trip to your home or offi ce to give you a personal closet consultation, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe.

PICTURE PERFECTTrust our professional sales associates to put together the ultimate outfi t and coordinate you from head to toe. To alleviate confusion when you get home, we will happily photograph your ensembles, providing a catalogue you can refer to time after time.

COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONSIn order to ensure that the fi t is just right, we off er complimentary alterations on all of our clothing. Down to the detail of the stitching, we ensure each article is tailored specifi cally to you. Our on-site team of world-class tailors is ready to assure that you always bring home a perfect fi t.

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SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT.It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable sales associates who help and guide you. You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to constantly exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.

BY APPOINTMENTOur personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as eff ortless as possible. For your convenience, they will pre-select a wardrobe to fi t your clothing needs, placing the garments in a private fi tting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specifi c items you might be looking for in the future. Call our stores for more information.

CLOTHING DONATIONS Service is important to us, not only in our store, but also in our community. We will help you clear out those unwanted items that have been cluttering up your closet, while providing for a good cause. All discarded items will be donated to a local charity — we will coordinate the donation and make the delivery ourselves.

COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAPWe off er complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases, on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPSDeveloping lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your shopping experience.

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Passion for Life15MilMil15 Suit

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