Wild Swimming France book sample 2

Wild Swimming France takes you on an aquatic voyage to the wild side of the world’s favourite holiday destination.

In vast areas of unspoilt French countryside there is so much to discover, from the tranquil river beaches of the Ardèche and the secret waterfalls of the Languedoc, to the shimmering aquamarine pools of Corsica and the Alps.

This beautiful guide will introduce you to parts of France you never knew existed, and provide all the practical information you’ll need, from overview maps and directions, grid references and walk-in times, to tips on the best campsites, places to rent canoes, farm-shops for picnic supplies, rural bistros for lazy lunches, and even the best places to skinny-dip.

Dive in! The water’s lovely.

£14.95

Daniel Start is an award-winning writer and photographer, author of Wild Swimming (2008) and Wild Swimming Coast (2009). He has spent the last three years camping and swimming in France, seeking out its natural wonders and getting sunburnt along the way. Married with a baby daughter, he works as an environmental consultant and lives at the confluence of two rivers in rural Somerset.

To receive updates about magical new swimming locations in France and beyond, or to find out about other products in the series, visit: Wildswimming.com

If you like Wild Swimming France you might also enjoy these other books by Daniel Start:

Swim beneath the great châteaux of the Loire and plunge into the azure-blue pools of Provence. Relax in the secret hot springs of the Pyrenees and discover the unspoilt crater lakes of the Mont-Dore.

France has one of the most diverse and magnificent landscapes in Europe, with a cuisine and culture to match. Its rivers, lakes and waterfalls are sparkling clean and its summers are reliably hot – and it’s all just a train ride away.

In this dazzling new travel guide for families and adventurers alike, Daniel Start, author of best-selling Wild Swimming and Wild Swimming Coast, combines engaging travel writing with spectacular photography to lure you off the beaten track to over 400 magical swimming locations.

FRANCE

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Daniel Start

Daniel Start

Discover the most beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls of France





£14.95







FRANCE

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Daniel Start

Daniel Start






£14.95







FRANCE

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Daniel Start

Daniel Start



Daniel Start

FRANCEWILDswimmingWILDswimming

Wild Swimming France

First edition published in the United Kingdom in 2012 by

Wild Things Publishing Ltd Bath, United Kingdom.

Copyright © 2012 Daniel Start

The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, used in any form of advertising, sales promotion or publicity, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN-13: 978-0-9571573-0-9

ISBN-10: 0957157304

www.wildthingspublishing.co.uk

www.wildswimming.com

To Tania, With heartfelt thanks for your love and support over the last two years

Swims by Region 4

Introduction 6

Getting Started 8

Swims at a Glance 10

Jura 14

Central Alps 30

Alpes-Maritimes 48

Corsica 68

Haut Var and Verdon 86

Vaucluse and Haute Provence 104

Ardèche 116

Languedoc 134

Cévennes 156

Corbières and Roussillon 174

Pyrénées 190

Lot, Célé and Aveyron 202

Dordogne 220

Loire and Normandy 236

Staying Safe and Legal 252

Contents

6 xxx

Wild swimming is the traditional art of swimming in natural bathing pools, such as rivers, lakes and waterfalls, and France, which has them in abundance, is the wild swimmer’s paradise. With some of the most beautiful and diverse landscapes, as well as the cleanest waters in Europe, taking a dip is the essential way to stay cool in summer, and the highlight of any French holiday.

The benefits of wild swimming are well documented – it’s great fun, it’s good for your health and it re-establishes our connection with nature. In rural France, people have always swum in rivers and there are over 1300 ‘official’ river beaches. Unlike the UK, most of France is just too far from the coast, and even if it wasn’t the options are limited. The Atlantic coast has a dangerous swell – great for surfing but not for swimming – and the Côte d’Azur is heavily developed along almost its whole length.

If you haven’t done much travelling in France or ventured off the beaten track, then you are in for a real treat. Its rivers are so numerous that French départements are named after them and three major sets of mountains ensure a plentiful supply of crystal-clear water to keep them flowing, even in the hot regions of the South. On their journey down from the mountains, the rivers often carve beautiful gorges, pools and waterfalls, which make perfect swimming holes and beaches. Countless tracks lead to exquisite stretches of riverside, and with four times as much land area per person compared to the UK, this is a place where everyone can find their little bit of wilderness.

Wild Swimming France focuses on the really spectacular parts of the country, with the majority of swims located in the southern half, where most people go on holiday. We begin our

Introduction

French river sportsCanyoning Swimming, scrambling and abseiling down narrow canyons and waterfalls with helmet and wetsuit

Hydrospeed Swimming down white-water rapids with the aid of a float and helmet

Aqua randonnée A popular family pastime of simply exploring a river, part-swimming, part-scrambling, with aqua sandals and a waterproof daypack

Canoeing One of the most popular outdoor pastimes for French family holidays and a wonderful way to scout out the best places for a picnic and swim

7

Est-ce qu’il y a un beau lieu de baignade en rivière ou lac près d’ici? Can you recommend a good river or lake swimming spot near here?

Nager to swim

Plonger/sauter to dive/jump

Baignade au milieu naturel/ Baignade en pleine nature swimming in a natural setting/ swimming outdoors

Baignade sauvage wild swimming

Baignade en rivière river swimming

Lieu de baignade swimming place

Eau doux fresh water

Marmite deeply eroded ‘pot’ or tub in rock (filled with water)

Resurgence where water or a river emerges from underground

Vasque/basin large pool or basin of water

Cascade/saut waterfall

French swimming dictionary

journey in the hills of the Jura and then head south, exploring waterfall country and the great lakes of the Alps. Moving into the wild hills around Nice we enter into the land of ‘clues’ – white limestone canyons with giant jade-green plunge pools and tumbling waterfalls, and while some require canyoning equipment many of the best can be reached on foot. From here, rugged Corsica is just a short hop on the boat, and with plunge pools and soaring mountain spires every bit as beautiful as its legendary beaches, this must count as one of the most beautiful wild-swimming locations in France, if not on earth.

Heading into Provence proper, the Verdon is the largest canyon in Europe and its lakes are perhaps the deepest shade of blue in the whole of France, while the waterfalls of Sillans-la-Cascade bring to mind the kind of tropical oases you might expect to find in Costa Rica rather than Europe. Towards Avignon, the land becomes more arid, but magical blue pools still remain, fed by underground springs, if you know where to look.

Both the gorges of the Ardèche, which boasts the Pont d’Arc, and the river Gard, with its Roman aqueduct, are justly famous for canoeing and swimming. Yet few venture into their upper reaches and tributaries, where volcanic activity has produced a landscape of extraordinary arches and basalt columns.

The Cévennes, where Robert Louis Stevenson travelled with his donkey and wolves still roam, is one of the wildest regions.Further south, the Languedoc and Corbières are hot, dry, wine-making regions that are well watered by the Hérault and Vis. These rivers gush out of great cave openings into enchanted fern-hung grottoes that conjure up scenes from legend and folklore. The Pyrenees are famous for their hot springs – of which only a few remain undeveloped – and for tranquil mountain tarns with rocky ledges for diving and islets to swim out to. Turning northwards, the valleys of the Aveyron, Lot and Dordogne, and their many beautiful tributaries, offer stunning cliff-side villages to swim beneath and plenty of delicious places for long lunches. Finally, the great Loire, with its fairytale castles and woodland lakes, is a surprisingly wild river – wide, empty, undeveloped and magnificent.

8 xxx

France has fantastic water quality and great summer temperatures. A hot day is the perfect time to swim, but it can be exciting on rainy days, too. In the north of France, it can sometimes be wet and mild, and rivers near towns and dairy farms may not be reliably clean. In the south, especially in the national parks, weather and water quality tend to be excellent.

Kit for families: You’ll feel more confident about exploring rivers if everyone is equipped with adequate footwear (old trainers, jelly shoes etc) and goggles –the basic equipment of aqua randonnée (see p.6). A regular surfing wetsuit or a sleeveless wetsuit top will help small children keep warm if you swim in colder water, such as mountain tarns or streams. Always pack towels (or simple sarongs), suntan lotion, sunhats and plastic bags for all your wet kit, and insect repellent is useful in woodland or for evening swims. Inflatables are fun for children but make sure they don’t drift away. A buoyancy aid (about £40) is a safer bet.

Skinny-dipping: If you come across a magical pool on a walk it’s quite possible to swim without any kit. Wear your undies or go naked if it is secluded. If you have no towel, wipe most of the water off with your hands then sacrifice one item of clothing to dry yourself with, or travel with a small, light cotton sarong.

Wild camping: Remember that this is illegal in France, and open fires are very dangerous during dry summers. If you do decide to camp out by the water, be discreet and invisible. Pitch late and take your tent down early. Leave absolutely no trace.

Getting started

1. If you swim downstream of dams with hydroelectric plants, be aware of changing water levels.

2. Don’t explore narrow gorges if thunderstorms are expected.

3. Don’t swim in canals, urban rivers or stagnant lakes. Keep cuts and wounds covered with waterproof plasters if you are concerned about water quality.

4. Never swim in flooded rivers and be cautious of water quality during droughts.

5. Never swim alone and keep a constant watch on weak swimmers.

6. Never jump into water you have not thoroughly checked for depth and obstructions.

7. Always make sure you know how you will get out before you get in.

8. Don’t get cold – warm up with exercise before a swim and put on warm clothes straight after.

9. Wear suitable footwear.

10. Wear sunscreen and don’t swim in the middle of the day – it’s easy to forget how strong the sun is when you’re in the water.

Turn to pages 252–253 for more detailed information

Ten ways to be wild and safe

9

finding your wayThere are over 400 swimming locations in this book and each can be located using the overview maps, the directions and the 10-point latitude and longitude grid reference. Walk-in times are given, together with symbols to indicate campsites, places to eat, canoe or boat hire and telephone numbers. Abbreviations are given for: left and right (L and R); north, east south and west (N, E, S, W); dir and opp stand for direction and opposite. The grid reference is the simplest and most reliable way to find the place. Type it into Google or Bing maps – on your computer or phone – to zoom straight to the place and view aerial photography and road maps. Or enter it direct into your SatNav and be guided to the vicinity automatically. For those places far from a road you will also need to refer to the French Institut Géographique National (IGN) 1:25,000 topographical maps. You can view and print sections for free at Geoportail.fr.

To find your own locations: If you are using detailed maps, look for bends in rivers, which create beaches and deeper sections; or head for areas above or below weirs (barrage), where pools can form. Any lake you find in a state forest (forêt domainiale marked as green with tree symbols in the Michelin road atlases) is likely to be accessible. Waterfalls are often marked with a straight black line on the IGN maps. You could also explore the main canoeing rivers of France. Where the water is deep enough for canoes it is often deep enough for swimming, too. The map Canoe-kayak en France: carte touristique (IGN, 2007) is an excellent resource.

10 xxx

29 lac de st-cassien48b delta du fango50 vallon sourn, argens54 rue d’eau de st-maurin68 pont d’arc84 pont du gard85 pont de collias

94 pont du diable94a lac du salagou108 la malène143b bouziès154 les tours168d bréhémont171 st-aubin-de-luigne

2a gorges de l’abîme4 lac d’ilay11b angon plage annecy22a ste-croix24b clue de pierrefeu29 lac de st-cassien50 vallon sourn, argens

52 bauduen plage57 lower toulourenc58 upper toulourenc85 pont de collias92 bord de cèze117 tarnon at florac170b candes-st-martin

Swims at a Glance

Canoeing and BoatingHire a canoe, pedalo or punt, to help you explore and to carry the picnics

Great for kidsMainly shallow and perfect for family fun

11

7c lac genin20 chute de la druise41b the manganello 48b delta du fango52 bauduen plage83a st-julien-des-chazes,

146 marcilhac153b manjo café161 gouffre de st-sauveur162 lac pavin155b moulin-de-rocherel166c lavardin

4a lac de narlay9b ornans14 la roche-de-rame18 lac du sautet37 gorges de la restonica43a pont de gaglioli68b the grand gour69a les grottes

72 balazuc78 gouffre de l’enfer89d salendrinque93 gorges de la cèze95 st-etienne d’issensac102d vieussan106 les fayards146c espagnac

1 cascades du hérisson3b cascade de vulvoz 20 chute de la druise24 clue d’aiglun30 ruisseau de planfaé32a cascade de piera36 cascade de la lance

41 cascade des anglais49 sillans-la-cascade51 châteaudouble gorge90 cascade du sautadet98 cirque de navacelles103 gorges d’héric130 gorges du llech

Waterside foodClose to a an auberge or recommended place to eat or buy picnic supplies

CampsitesSuperb sites set by the water with simple facilities and a laid-back attitude

WaterfallsDramatic cascades and wonderful natural jacuzzis

12 xxx

6 lac de vouglans7 pont de confort, semine11 roc de chère, annecy16 lac de serre-ponçon24b clue de pierrefeu30 ruisseau de planfaé31b gorge de carleva38 gorges du tavignano

45 gorges de la vacca51 châteaudouble gorge69 plage des templiers81 freyssenet87 la baume, sanilhac116 cascade de tapoul118 l’hort-de-dieu134a lac des hauts

11 roc de chère, annecy26 pont de la cerise28 clue de st-auban30b ravine de redebraus52a le défens52b la grande gorge61 gorges de la méouge

68 pont d’arc78 gouffre de l’enfer80 jaujac, lignon90 cascade du sautadet98 cirque de navacelles118 l’hort-de-dieu124 gouffre de l’oeil doux

10 miroir de scey33b lac des merveilles94 pont du diable95 st-etienne d’issensac

126 gorges de galamus125b cascades de ribaute 160 lacave164 chenonceaux

Skinny-dippingRemote and beautiful locations where you’ll be tempted to swim au naturel

JumpingDeep pools with great leaps. Take care!

Châteaux and historySwim beneath great castles and enjoy the history of France from the water

13

6 lac de vouglans16 lac de serre-ponçon42 cavu & ste-lucie87 la baume, sanilhac

95 st-etienne d’issensac136 les laquettes159a le port160d floirac

13 ravin du couleau24 clue d’aiglun25 clue du riolan26 pont de la cerise43 gorges de fiumicelle44 cascades de purcaraccia

49 sillans-la-cascade58 upper toulourenc98a moulin de la foux111 le-pont-de-montvert127 fontaine des amours161 gouffre de st-sauveur

8a source de la loue24 clue d’aiglun25 clue du riolan26 pont de la cerise28 clue de st-auban32 l’infernet, le suquet51 châteaudouble gorge55 le styx

56 le point sublime56e haut jabron 57 lower toulourenc68 pont d’arc112 les détroits114 rocher de champignon121 ribaute, orbieu131 gorges de kakuetta

Wild campingWonderful and wild locations for sleeping out by the water

Blue poolsThe most azure, emerald or aquamarine waters you’ll find this side of the Seychelles

Canyons, arches and formationsDramatic rock shapes and gorges that will leave you awe-struck

86 Haut Var and Verdon52a Le Défens

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Haut Var and VerdonThis dramatic region includes the great blue expanse of the Lac de Ste-Croix, the spectacular Canyon du Verdon and the verdant oasis of Sillans-la-Cascade.

10km

AupsAups

GrasseGrasse

Gréoux-les-BainsGréoux-les-Bains

CastellaneCastellane

to Digne-les-Bainsto Digne-les-Bains

Sillans-la-CascadeSillans-la-Cascade

Comps-sur-ArtubyComps-sur-Artuby

CarcesCarces

CotignacCotignac

DraguignanDraguignanBarjolsBarjols

St-Maximin-la-Ste-BaumeSt-Maximin-la-Ste-BaumeBrignolesBrignoles

les Arcsles Arcs

FrejusFrejus

d-952

d-557

d-17

d-562

d-13

d-957

d-560

d-13

d-71

n-555

a-8 a-8

a-51

d-4085

d-95

5

d-21

n-202

d-3

d-6

d-562

n-85

d-955

d-13d-2

2

d-554

d-562

5352

56

55

54

51

50

49

d

c

e

a

aa

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b c

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50LorguesLorgues

d-560

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56

de

Haut Var and Verdon

49 sillans-la-cascadeThis could be a scene from the tropics – a great waterfall pours into a huge, luminescent turquoise pool, with additional pools to explore.

50 vallon sourn, argensIn this pretty valley, the river Argens meanders through glades and between grassy banks with sandy beaches that are perfect for dips and picnics. Downstream you can hire canoes.

52 bauduen plageDelightful lakeside village with a superb beach and clear water for snorkelling.

52a le défensFurther along the lake from Bauduen, this remote lake shore offers islets and cliffs for jumping, set beneath a rocky peninsula.

54 rue d’eau de st-maurinNo trip to Verdon is complete without hiring a pedalo in Pont de Galetas and heading up into the flooded gorges, as far as the waterfall and all the way up to beaches at the lake end.

55 le styxAmazing rock formations and a river cave for the intrepid to explore. It’s a substantial trek but well worth it for the sense of adventure.

56 le point sublimeAnother classic Verdon walk deep into the heart of one of the most dramatic parts of the canyon, passing through tunnels and along walkways that lead to river pools, caves and waterfalls.

10km

AupsAups

GrasseGrasse

Gréoux-les-BainsGréoux-les-Bains

CastellaneCastellane

to Digne-les-Bainsto Digne-les-Bains

Sillans-la-CascadeSillans-la-Cascade

Comps-sur-ArtubyComps-sur-Artuby

CarcesCarces

CotignacCotignac

DraguignanDraguignanBarjolsBarjols

St-Maximin-la-Ste-BaumeSt-Maximin-la-Ste-BaumeBrignolesBrignoles

les Arcsles Arcs

FrejusFrejus

d-952

d-557

d-17

d-562

d-13

d-957

d-560

d-13

d-71

n-555

a-8 a-8

a-51

d-4085

d-95

5

d-21

n-202

d-3

d-6

d-562

n-85

d-955

d-13

d-22

d-554

d-562

5352

56

55

54

51

50

49

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90 Haut Var and Verdon

From the slender cascades and forest pools on the tiny Bresque to the bewitching blues of the great river Verdon, this lesser-known area of Provence seems light years away from the over-developed beaches of the Mediterranean.

Just 50 kilometres from St-Tropez, north of the A8, Sillans-la-Cascade 49 is perhaps the jewel of the Haut Var. As you enter this unassuming village, the Bresque appears to be little more than an overgrown ditch with a strange blue glow. Follow it downstream along the footpath and suddenly it plummets into a great palm-lined oasis of opal water that makes you think you’ve been transported to Costa Rica. A freak rock fall some years ago closed the route into the main pool, though many ignore the notice. You’ll find more milky-blue pools in the woods downstream and there is another big waterfall further along the main path. After your swim, make for Cotignac,

49 The main pool at Sillans-la-Cascade

51 Châteaudouble first pool

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49 sillans-la-cascadelat long: 43.5637, 6.1851walk in: 20 mins, moderate

Great mossy cliff and huge luminous blue pool adorned with palms and vines. Main pool officially closed due to rock fall risk, but there are smaller pools on the stream and another large waterfall downstream. Make time to visit nearby Cotignac with its tufa cliff.

,Park at the main car park at Sillans-la-Cascade (D22/D560 junction), cross the road and follow yellow signs to La Cascade, 1km. When the waterfall comes into sight below on L, descend from path. You will need to skirt the fences by the cliff and caves to enter the main pool. Stay away from the cliff bottoms and the base of the falls. Informal path downstream 300m leads to numerous popular small pools in wooded area. Return up to main path, turn L (dir Panorama Cascade) and then turn L again after 200m to descend 250m to reach another large waterfall with pool beneath (43.5624, 6.1890).

50 vallon sourn, argenslat long: 43.4912, 6.0431walk in: 1 min, easy

The young river Argens winds its way through this gentle valley en route to Correns, with many lovely beaches.

, 10km N of Brignoles, turn R off D554 at Châteauvert.

a Weir pool 3km E of Carcès on D562. 800m after Entrecasteaux turning (D31) a drive on R (through bollards) leads immediately to huge pool below trees (43.4843, 6.2255). Another 3km leads to £ Provence Canoe on R ( E 04 94 29 52 48 ) with beach and rope course.

b Abbaye du Thoronet weir Continue another 4km (D562), past the turning for the abbey, find track on R (500m after D250 and just after a mini-bridge and sign to Domain d’Aurial on L). Continue 500m to find lovely set of pools above and below low weir (43.4773, 6.2972)

c Pont St-Barthélémy pretty pools on the Florieye. Turn R off minor road between Lorgues and Flayosc (43.5028, 6.4009).

d Chute du Grand Baou Mossy waterfalls with good pool for swimmers. Take D562 from Le Val (D554) dir Carcès 50m after D22 take track on L. After 300m, at junction, turn R. Large pool (43.4541, 6.0995).

e Vins-sur-Caramy (near Le Val) has deep, blue quarry lakes on its W edge, off A8/J35 (43.4309, 6.1258) via D224.

51 châteaudouble gorgelat long: 43.5907, 6.4302walk in: 5 mins, moderate

Beautiful gorge with blue pools and small waterfalls. W of Châteaudouble on D955, 4km W of D51 and 3km before Rebouillon, find unsigned minor road, hard R, leading down to bridge. Initial pool just downstream of bridge but continue 5 mins for deep pool with swing and cliff jump. Part of D955 was swept away after the tragic floods of 2010.

a Cascades de Pierrepont offers pools that are ideal for children, by roadside 1km from centre of Montferrat on Chemin de Pierrepont (43.6163, 6.4882).

Haut Var & the Argens

49 Lower pools at Sillans-la-Cascade


49 sillans-la-cascadeThe main pool


52a le défensSwimming out to the rock

95

52c lac de ste-croixWild beach near Les Salles


a few kilometres to the south and the most beautiful of the Haut Var villages. The great cliff it nestles beneath is encased in limestone tufa and dotted with cave shelters that were once inhabited by troglodytes.

There are more waterfalls to the south at the Chute du Grand Baou 50d, but for a traditional river-setting head west to Vallon Sourn 50 on the upper stretches of the Argens and a quiet winding valley of sparkling water and sandy beaches. The Argens widens as it flows beyond Carcès, with several weirs and river pools 50a, before passing by the great, rose-coloured Cistercian monastery, the Abbaye du Thoronet 50b.

To the east, near Draguignan, are the gorges of Châteaudouble, which boast some exquisite pools 51. The village of the same name hangs so precariously on the rocks above that Nostradamus predicted the river would erode them and send its buildings tumbling into the gorge below. Thankfully, the village remains intact, despite devastating floods in 2010.

The most spectacular swimming in this region, however, is undoubtedly along the course of the Verdon, which was dammed to form the Lac de Ste-Croix, one of the largest artificial lakes in France, with beautiful clear-blue water and

xx 52b La Grande Gorge

53 The peaceful Gorges de Baudinard

52a

97

52 bauduen plagelat long: 43.7325, 6.1769walk in: 2 mins, easy

Delightful lakeside village with pretty beach and boulders for jumping and snorkelling.

, 15km N of Aups (D49) on S end of the lake. Eat at R Café du Midi ( E 04 94 70 08 94). 1km S of village on D249 is another beach (43.7335, 6.1861).

a Le Défens is the stretch of wild headland and shore beyond the village. Find track by sailing club and continue 2km, passing numerous beach areas. At road end continue on foot 500m to find large rock promontory with bay and rock island beyond (43.7534, 6.1781).

b La Grande Gorge on D71. 900m before dam (Bauduen side) find steep path down from road layby. Jumping and snorkelling (43.7306, 6.1468).

c Les Salles-sur-Verdon Many beaches on the long stretch of D957 either side of the village e.g. opp ! Les Ruisses (43.7825, 6.2111)

53 gorges de baudinardlat long: 43.7451, 6.1011walk in: 45 mins, by canoe

Below Lac de Ste-Croix these lesser- known gorges also await exploration. Their mossy waterfalls and caves are only accessible by canoe.

,Ascend on D71 by the dam, then turn R after 3km (D9) and descend 5km to Pont Sylvestre. There is good swimming upstream or hire £ boats at bridge (from ! Coteau de la Marine) to explore gorges (2km upstream). Continue across bridge (D211) and turn L at Montpezat (D461) to find excellent lake shore 2km beyond, towards St-Saturnin (43.7456, 6.0806)

a Ravine Le Mau Vallon Head back from bridge and turn R off D9 after 1.6km, by Forêt Communale sign. Continue 1.6km and, 100m after road crosses small ravine and opp green gates, take path R into forest. After 150m turn R at junction, descend to stream bed and follow it down to shore at base of ravine. Wild and impressive (43.7278, 6.0926).

b Eouvière Verte Continue 1.3km on road to this campsite ! with good beach beneath trees (43.7203, 6.0903). Carry on 300m to D471. Turn L (D411 dir Artignosc-sur-Verdon) and, 250m on R, footpath track leads down to lovely river gorges (43.7152, 6.0849).

54 rue d’eau de st-maurinlat long: 43.8017, 6.2495walk in: 30 mins paddle, easy

The classic way to explore the Canyon de Verdon is to hire a £ pedalo from busy Pont du Galetas at north-east corner of lake (D957 S of Moustiers-Ste-Marie) and pedal up as far as the waterfall that joins the gorge from the L after 1km. Remember to take sunscreen.

a Sentier des Pêcheurs offers access to the same shore, but by foot. Park at the car park at Col de l’Olivier on the bend of the D952 (43.7843, 6.2678). Follow signed yellow path 3km (45 mins) down to river beach (43.7821, 6.2635). Path continues downstream and loops back to road.

Lac de Ste-Croix & lower Verdon

52b La Grande Gorge 52 Bauduen - low water reveals some good jumps


52 bauduenMoonscape foreshore at low water


gleaming white pebble beaches. Bauduen, a village on the lake’s south-east shore 52 is a charming place to stay, with access to the forested promontory and shoreline of Le Défens 52a and dazzling sunsets across the water. In the 1950s, poverty and depopulation had left most of Bauduen’s houses derelict so the proposal to submerge the village, which was perched high up on the rocks, met with little opposition. At the eleventh hour, however, the dam height was reduced and Bauduen suddenly acquired an idyllic lakeside setting.

For many people, the Canyon du Verdon is the highlight of their visit. You can drive around the gorges on spectacular roads but a hike down to the river bed, which is a drop of 250 metres in parts, is a much better way to experience the grandeur of the scenery. My favourite trail is the Sentier de l’Imbut leading to the legendary Styx, a narrowing of the gorge through a slot canyon before the river passes through a cave and then disappears down through a great jumble of boulders 55. A popular, and busier, path is the Sentier Martel, built to explore the gorges in 1928 and later the site of an early experiment in hydroelectricity 56. The path gives access to the river in places and involves numerous tunnels (once designed to carry water), ladders and walkways.

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54a

55 Pools on path to Le Styx

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55 le styx lat long: 43.7515, 6.3245walk in: 75 mins, hard

Cystal-clear river pools in some of the wildest parts of the river canyon. At the legendary Styx the Verdon passes through a gorge of carved white rock, then a cave and eventually disappears in a jumble of boulders. The chasm is best explored at midday

,From the pretty hilltop village of Aiguines, follow the D71 for about 16km to find the Sentier de l’Imbut on L, 50m before the Auberge des Cavaliers (43.7376, 6.3461). Descend into canyon on well-marked path (30 mins) to find beach by the new footbridge. Continue downstream on stunning riverside path 45 mins, passing various pools, to Le Styx, where the river undercuts the cliff and enters cave, with a beautiful mini-canyon above it. The path continues downstream 500m to the point where the Verdon disappears into a chaos of boulders at L’Imbut. Flow rates are not constant. See Box over page.

56 le point sublimelat long: 43.7892, 6.3962walk in: 10 mins, moderate

Easy access into the heart of the canyon to find blue pools and river beaches. From here take the classic Sentier Martel through tunnels and along south-facing riverside path. Dramatic but busy.

,Between La Palud and Rougon (D952) the Point Sublime road descends to Couloir Samson (Samson’s Corridor) car park. Short path leads down to riverside (10 mins) with pools up- and downstream. Great pool 45 mins downstream, after the Couloir Samson, or 30 mins downstream at the huge Baume aux Pigeons (Pigeon Cave) in the Baos Béni mini-gorge.

a Pont du Tusset is an ancient bridge with a deep corner pool 100m downstream (43.7896, 6.4070). A peaceful spot and an antidote to crowded Point Sublime. 500m down the Point Sublime road, find track on L which becomes a footpath, leading 1km to bridge.

b Pont de Carejuan is a further 3km along the D952 (43.7915, 6.4329). Easy parking and beaches with picnic tables.

c Lower Jabron canyon has extraordinary formations and giant plunge pools. Continue another 2km, turn R (D955 dir Comps) and, 1.7km after Soleils, find GR footpath R down 500m to Pont du Sautet (43.7729, 6.4421). Descend into gorge and continue 700m upstream.

d Lac de Castillon situated 20km upstream on the Verdon beyond Castellane (D955) is blue and beautiful. My favourite swim is just before the road tunnel: scramble around to the headland opposite the island (43.8912, 6.5358).

e Haut Jabron underground cave swim, 7km S of Castellane, D4085 (43.79161, 6.57133). You must be equipped with canyoning gear(see box over page).

Canyon du Verdon

55 Le Styx at low flow

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