Wigs & Hair Additions

Chapter 19

Learning Objectives

• Understand why cosmetologists should study wigs and hair additions.

• Explain the differences between human hair and synthetic hair.

• Examine the two basic categories of wigs.• Distinguish several types of hairpieces and their

uses.• Review several different methods of attaching

hair extensions.

Introduction

• Working with hair additions can be either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field.

• Hair additions range from clip-on hairpieces that salons retail, such as ponytails, chignons, bangs, and even extensions, to elaborately applied extensions in which addition strands are attached individually.

• The income that hair extension services represents ranges from a small amount for a clip-on ponytail or bang to thousands of dollars for human hair extensions that are fusion bonded strand-by-strand to the client’s hair.

• Additionally, hair-loss clients and medical clients, such as cancer patients, have very particular needs for hair additions, which you can learn if you choose to specialize.

Differences Between Human and Synthetic Hair

Advantages of Human Hair

• More realistic appearance

• Greater durability

• Same styling and maintenance as natural hair

• Can be custom colored and permed or relaxed

• Tolerates heat from a blow dryer, curling iron, flat

iron, or hot rollers(continues)

Disadvantages of Human Hair

• Climate reactions.

• Required resetting after shampooing.

• Oxidizing color.

• Breaking and splitting hair.

Differences Between Human and Synthetic Hair (continued)

(continues)

Advantages of Synthetic Hair

• Strength and durability

• Great value

• Pre-set style and texture

• Trendy and fashionable

• Almost unlimited color selection

• No fading or oxidizing with sun exposure

Differences Between Human and Synthetic Hair (continued)

(continues)

Disadvantages of Synthetic Hair

• Low tolerance to extreme heat.

• Traditional hair color not recommended.

• Unnatural shine and thickness.

• Correlation between price and quality.

Differences Between Human and Synthetic Hair (continued)

Quality and Cost Human Hair

• Top of line: European

• Second: Indian and Asian

• Third: mixture of human and animal hair

• Fourth: human hair mixed with synthetic hair

Wig Selection Questions

• What is it made of?

• Is it natural or artificially colored?

• What is the grade of strength, elasticity, and porosity?

• Is the cuticle intact?

• Is it fallen hair?

(continues)

• Is it tangle free?

• What is the condition?

• Does color match client’s?

• Can it be permed or relaxed?

• Will it last for four to six months?

Wig Selection Questions (continued)

Learn Basic Wig Knowledge

• A wig is an artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair.

• If a hair addition does not fully cover the head, it is either a hairpiece or a hair attachment of some sort.

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Types of Wigs

• Cap – often hand-knotted

• Capless – machine-made– Light and comfortable– Allow scalp to breathe– Ready for immediate wear

Methods of Construction

• Hand-tied wigs

• Semi-hand-tied wigs

• Machine-made wigs

Taking Wig Measurements

• Measure the client. • Use a soft tape measure, keeping it close to the

head without pressure.• Always keep a written record of the client’s head

measurements, and forward a copy to the wig dealer or manufacturer.

• Ready-to-wear wigs.• Proper sizing.

Measuring the Head

• Head circumference

• Front to nape

• Ear to ear

Blocking the Wig

• Block – head-shaped form

– Usually made of canvas-covered cork or Styrofoam

– Used for fitting, coloring, and sometimes styling.

– Six sizes, ranging from 20 to 22 inches.

• Swivel clamp – used to hold block, allowing for greater control when styling.

Putting on the Wig

• Secure hair.

• Shorten wig from front to nape (horizontal tuck).

• Shorten wig in back (vertical tuck).

Cutting the Wig

• Objective – to make hair look realistic.

• Taper ends to make shape look less solid.

Styling the Wig

• Treat hair gently

• Use low heat

• Brushes

• Block

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Styling Tips for the Hairline

• Styling products

• Backcomb

• Blend

• Wind test

Cleaning the Wig

• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions

• Use a gentle shampoo.

• Drying

• Condition

Coloring Wigs and Hair Additions

• Range from black to blond

• Color level 1

• White yak hair

• Check cuticle

Perming Wigs and Additions

• Can only be done on human hair.• Do NOT perm hair that has been subjected

to metallic dye.• Perm with wig off head. • Cover the block form with plastic.• Pin the wig securely to the head form.• Perm as for a normal head of hair.

Know the Different Types of Hairpieces

• Integration piece – has openings in the base through which the client’s own hair is pulled to blend with the (natural or synthetic) hair of the hairpiece.

• Toupee – a small wig used to cover the top and crown of the head.

• Fashion hairpiece – includes ponytails, chignons, cascades, streaks, bangs, falls/half wigs, and clip-in hair extensions.

Fashion Hairpieces

• Wraparound ponytail

(continues)

• A cascade of curls attached with a comb

Fashion Hairpieces (continued)

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• Hair wrap

Fashion Hairpieces (continued)

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Study the World of Hair Extensions

• Secured to the base of the client’s natural hair in order to add length, volume, texture, or color.

• Extensions can be human hair, synthetic hair, or a blend of the two.

• They are either wefts of hair or strands.• Unless they are clip-in extensions, they are

applied with semi-permanent attachment methods.

General Guidelines

• Determine length/thickness needed.• Determine desired look and map it.• Stay 1 inch away from hairline.• Ensure base does not show.• Match curl pattern.• Fewer extensions needed for curly hair.

Professional Approach

• Safety for client’s hair

• Comfort

• Security

• Style and fashion

Braid-and-Sew Attachment

• Hair extensions are secured to the client’s own hair by sewing braids or a weft onto an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow.

• The wefts can also be attached by creating a track, using fiber filler.

• The angle of the track determines how the hair will fall.

• The braid-and-sew method can also be used to attach hairpieces.

(continues)

• Partings

• Size of sections

• Hidden ends of braids

• Position tracks 1 inch behind hairline

• Blunt, custom-designed needle

Braid-and-Sew Attachment (continued)

Lock Stitch

• A sewing technique used with a curved needle and thread to sew on a weft of hair to a braided cornrow track.

• Can also be used over the entire length of the track in evenly spaced stitches.

Overcast Stitch

• Pass needle under track and weft.

• Bring needle back over to make new stitch.

• Repeat stitch along track to end.

• Complete with lock stitch.

Double-Lock Stitch

• Duplicates lock stitch.

• Thread is wound around needle twice to create the double lock.

Advantages of Braid-and-Sew

• Very safe• Requires no special equipment

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Disadvantages of Braid-and-Sew

• Too much tension on the braid can cause the client’s hair to be damaged.

• Not appropriate for everyone.

Bonding Method

• Adhesive applied to weft• Natural hair should be

4 inches (10 cm) long• Lasts from two to four weeks

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Bonding Advantages

• Affordable

• Timely

• Can be gently shampooed

Bonding Disadvantages

• Allergies to ingredients in adhesive

• Inappropriate for severely damaged hair

• Should not be used to attach wefts that are longer than 12 inches

Fusion Bonding Method

• Extension hair – bonded to the client’s own hair with bonding material that is activated by heat from a special tool.

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• Client’s hair will dry more quickly.• By using extensions in slightly different colors,

you can create the illusion of depth and dimension or a highlighted effect.

• This method also allows for styling versatility.

Advantages of Fusion Bonding

• Time consuming.• The pre-tipped extensions are expensive.

Disadvantages of Fusion Bonding

Linking

• A hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a parting.

• The link slides close to scalp using a special tool.

• The extension is inserted into link.

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Linking (continued)

• Advantages– Linking offers styling versatility. – The integrity of the natural hair can be

maintained if the procedure is done properly. • Disadvantages

– Method is expensive and time consuming. – The metal links can oxidize (rust).

Tube Shrinking

• The client’s hair and the addition strand are inserted into a tube that is then heated to shrink it.

• The method requires special tools and training.

Retailing Hair Addition Products

• Identify client’s needs.• Explain value of investment.• Describe features and benefits.• Discuss performance and cost.• Choose high-quality pieces.• Believe in recommendations.• Price appropriately.

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Practice, Practice, Practice

• To become skilled at this work, you need to take specialized, formal training and practice continually.

• The more you do, the better you will become.

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Summary and Review

• There will always be a practical need for the ability to style wigs since they are used to camouflage hair loss even when it is not the fashion trend to wear them.

• Hairpieces, wigs, extensions, and weaves will always be used in some manner to help cover irreplaceable hair loss.

• As a cosmetologist, it will be necessary for you to master the techniques of fitting, cutting, styling, and possibly coloring wigs, all with the interests and comfort of the client foremost in your mind.

Chapter Review Questions

1. What are hair extensions?

(continues)

Chapter Review Questions (continued)

2. What are the main advantages and disadvantages of human hair and synthetic hair?

(continues)

3. What are the two basic categories of wigs?

4. What are three types of hairpieces and how are they used?

5. What are fashion hairpieces and list three methods of attachments.

6. What are three primary wig measurements?

Chapter Review Questions (continued)

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7. What are the basic methods of hair cutting and trimming wigs?

8. What are five methods for attaching hair extensions? Describe each.

Chapter Review Questions (continued)

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