Why Arent peak experiences consistent? Why Arent peak experiences consistent? Why cant we vinify by...
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Why Aren’t “peak experiences” Why Aren’t “peak experiences” consistent?consistent?
Why can’t we vinify by recipe?Why can’t we vinify by recipe?
Why does 10 ppt TCA cause astringency?Why does 10 ppt TCA cause astringency?
Is subjectivity arbitrary?Is subjectivity arbitrary?
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Contemporary Contemporary Wine Sensory AssessmentWine Sensory Assessment
Consumer focus groupsConsumer focus groups Difference testingDifference testing Quality scoringQuality scoring
– Davis 20-pt criteria sumDavis 20-pt criteria sum– Parker 100-pt subjective scaleParker 100-pt subjective scale
Criterion-based descriptive scalingCriterion-based descriptive scaling– invented attribute “drivers”invented attribute “drivers”– linear modelinglinear modeling– Factor analysis mappingFactor analysis mapping
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Contemporary Contemporary Wine Sensory AssessmentWine Sensory Assessment
Measures behavior rather than cognitionMeasures behavior rather than cognition Low RLow R22’s: Who says “drivers” drive?’s: Who says “drivers” drive? Group statistics are a blunt instrument Group statistics are a blunt instrument
which obscures shared experience which obscures shared experience Weak non-linear modelingWeak non-linear modeling Alpha testing Alpha testing
– high Type II Error (false negatives) high Type II Error (false negatives) – very limited granularity for “tuning”very limited granularity for “tuning”
No sensory standards for holistic drivers: No sensory standards for holistic drivers: – Harmony, grace, mood, aggressivity, etc.Harmony, grace, mood, aggressivity, etc.
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What What isis wine wine ??????????????““...bottled poetry.”...bottled poetry.” Robert Louis StevensonRobert Louis Stevenson
“It puckers your mouth.” –Art Buchwald“the beverage of moderation”
The blood of ChristA fate worse than death! Susan B. Anthony
Sunshine held together by water -Galileo
The most gentle and efficaceous of medicines
Louis Pasteur
“Wisdom and wit to the wise” -Archimedes
“Wine is proof that God loves us and desires us to be happy.” Benjamin Franklin
An expression of place
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ApollonianApollonian
vsvs
DionysianDionysian
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German Mosel German Mosel Oz Shiraz fresh mature
pure sexy
focused fruit integrated voice
delicious profound
crisp round
clean mysterious
lean plush
deep broad
energized muscular
beautiful visceral
loves sunlight loves fire & moonlight
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Our Goals are the same as those of fine cuisine:
– Visceral enjoyment of flavors integrated into a refined structure.
– Memorable taste expression from careful farming in living soil.
– Science is just a tool. Organized knowledge is not our goal. Our work is always fundamentally mysterious.
Winegrowing is just a specialized type of cooking!
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What is GrapeCraft?What is GrapeCraft?
““The practical art The practical art
of touching the human of touching the human soul soul
with the soul of a with the soul of a place place
by rendering its grapes by rendering its grapes
into liquid music.”into liquid music.”
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In a nutshell:In a nutshell:
Less theory…Less theory…
more technique!more technique!
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Shared attributes of Shared attributes of wine and music wine and music
Strong visceral appealStrong visceral appeal– Revenues from music exceed pharmaceuticalsRevenues from music exceed pharmaceuticals– There are no $100 beersThere are no $100 beers
Non-linear consonance and dissonance Non-linear consonance and dissonance (sweet spots)(sweet spots)
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1999 CSU Fresno Syrah:
26% of the wine was reduced to 10.1% for blending 0.1% alcohol increments 31 wines between 15.5% and 12.5% v/v EtOH n = 22 judges. Acclimation voting preference frequencies (Figure 1) Four points of harmonious balance obtained Free associations descriptive analysis (Table 2)
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Figure 1"Sweet Spot" Tasting of 1999 Syrah
reduced from 18.0% ethanol
0
5
1015
.515
.415
.315
.215
.115
.014
.914
.814
.714
.614
.514
.414
.314
.214
.114
.013
.913
.813
.713
.613
.513
.413
.313
.213
.113
.012
.912
.812
.712
.6
Syrah % v/v ethanol
Jud
ge
(n=
22)
free
ch
oic
e fr
equ
ency
*** 2 analysis of observed vs. expected: < 0.1 % (Very Highly Significant)
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Table 2
Judge descriptors for Syrah “sweet spots”
18.0% (untreated)
Hot, astringent, low fruit expression
15.0
Rich, alcoholic, leathery, complex, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
14.35
Jammy, black pepper, smooth
13.75
Elegant, balanced, long finish
13.3
Clean, blueberry, tart
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Shared attributes of Shared attributes of wine and music wine and music
Strong visceral appealStrong visceral appeal– Revenues from music exceed pharmaceuticalsRevenues from music exceed pharmaceuticals– There are no $100 beersThere are no $100 beers
Non-linear consonance and dissonance (sweet Non-linear consonance and dissonance (sweet spots)spots)
Strongly shared sense of harmonyStrongly shared sense of harmony Broad disparity of stylistic preferenceBroad disparity of stylistic preference Emotion mapping Emotion mapping
– resonance demonstrationresonance demonstration Simultaneity of immediate, proximate and root Simultaneity of immediate, proximate and root
influences influences
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Listener’s backgroundexpectation of musical genres
Performer Composer
Instrumental Composition
MUSICAL APPRECIATIONMUSICAL APPRECIATION
STYLE
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Taster’s backgroundexpectation of historical genres
OriginWinemaker
Varietal Composition
WINE APPRECIATIONWINE APPRECIATION
STYLE
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Clinical Tools for Clinical Tools for Cognitive MusicologyCognitive Musicology
Behavioral studies of brain injuriesBehavioral studies of brain injuries Magnetic Resonance ImagingMagnetic Resonance Imaging Electro EncephalographyElectro Encephalography Positron Emission TomographyPositron Emission Tomography
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Music Cognition neurological Music Cognition neurological process mapping identifies the process mapping identifies the
following distinct mental following distinct mental systems:systems:
Logical processingLogical processing Sensory processingSensory processing Motor processingMotor processing Visualization Visualization
– (daydreaming)(daydreaming) Emotional processingEmotional processing
– Pleasure systemPleasure system– Aversion systemAversion system
MemoryMemory
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Logical processingLogical processing
Pitch recognition Pitch recognition Timbre identificationTimbre identification Meter determinationMeter determination Melody processingMelody processing Lyrics processingLyrics processing Tonal context (pitch Tonal context (pitch
“as”)“as”) Fault listeningFault listening
Aroma notes Aroma notes Terroir distinctionTerroir distinction Swirling rhythmSwirling rhythm Anticipation / sipAnticipation / sip Winemaking storyWinemaking story Genre contextGenre context DefectsDefects
Music Wine
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Bakine, Edeline and Weinberger, Bakine, Edeline and Weinberger, 1999:1999:
Neuron tunings in the auditory cortex of Neuron tunings in the auditory cortex of guinea pigs can be re-tuned by a few guinea pigs can be re-tuned by a few minutes’ training. minutes’ training.
Patterns endured for two months.Patterns endured for two months.
Implications for winemaking:Implications for winemaking: Consumers trained for panels may not Consumers trained for panels may not
reflect preferences of untrained consumersreflect preferences of untrained consumers Winemakers trained to detect defects may Winemakers trained to detect defects may
develop enhanced perceptual sensitivitydevelop enhanced perceptual sensitivity
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Motor ProcessingMotor Processing
Rhythm recognition and reproductionRhythm recognition and reproduction Instrument operationInstrument operation
– LearningLearning– Reproduction from memoryReproduction from memory
Swirl, sip, spitSwirl, sip, spit
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Memory FunctionalityMemory Functionality
Short termShort term– ExperientialExperiential– ComputationalComputational
Long term ImplicitLong term Implicit– ProceduralProcedural– Perceptual PrimingPerceptual Priming
Long Term ExplicitLong Term Explicit– EpisodicEpisodic– SemanticSemantic
AromAromaa& & FlavoFlavorr
DEFECTS
Swirl,sniff,spit I.D.
EVENTRECALL sense
ofplace
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Emotional ProcessingEmotional Processing Temporal melody emotional Temporal melody emotional
progressionprogression– anticipation leading to resolutionanticipation leading to resolution
Intrinsic mood (underlying theme)Intrinsic mood (underlying theme)
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N.M. Weinberger’s case subject N.M. Weinberger’s case subject “I.R.”:“I.R.”:
Bilaterial damage to temporal lobes, Bilaterial damage to temporal lobes, auditory cortexauditory cortex
I.Q. and general memory normalI.Q. and general memory normal No language difficultiesNo language difficulties No melody recognition or recollectionNo melody recognition or recollection Emotional reactions completely Emotional reactions completely
normal!normal!
Separate functionality of Separate functionality of melody vs intrinsic moodmelody vs intrinsic mood
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Wines don’t have Wines don’t have melodiesmelodies
but they but they dodo carry carry emotions!emotions!
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““Blues” processingBlues” processing
Males
Females
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Primary and Secondary Primary and Secondary EmotionsEmotions
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Emotional ShapesEmotional Shapes((SenticsSentics, Manfred Clynes), Manfred Clynes)
Love Lust
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Emotional ProcessingEmotional Processing Temporal melody emotional Temporal melody emotional
progressionprogression– anticipation leading to resolutionanticipation leading to resolution
Intrinsic mood (underlying theme)Intrinsic mood (underlying theme) Consonance processing cascadeConsonance processing cascade
– Reward systemReward system– Sympathetic nervous system (“relax”)Sympathetic nervous system (“relax”)– EuphoriaEuphoria
Dissonance processing cascadeDissonance processing cascade– Parasympathetic system (alert to danger)Parasympathetic system (alert to danger)– Limbic system (fight or flight)Limbic system (fight or flight)
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Blood and Zatorre, 2001:Blood and Zatorre, 2001:
PET scan imaging of subjects listening PET scan imaging of subjects listening to musical intervals to musical intervals
C / E (perfect fifth)C / E (perfect fifth)– orbitofrontal area (part of Reward System) orbitofrontal area (part of Reward System) – area below corpus callosum (sympathetic?)area below corpus callosum (sympathetic?)
C / C#C / C#– right parahypocampal gyrus (fight or flight)right parahypocampal gyrus (fight or flight)
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Thalamuscharacterizesstimulus
Stimulus
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Thalamuscharacterizesstimulus
DISSONANCEDISSONANCE
HARMONYHARMONY
Limbic System(danger)
FrontalLobes(RewardSystem)
0.1% Alcohol Difference!
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Chardonnay Preferences
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10
Preferences
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Winemaking ImplicationsWinemaking Implications Borrow from musical approaches to qualityBorrow from musical approaches to quality Exploration of wine cognitive processingExploration of wine cognitive processing Map wine style emotions through music Map wine style emotions through music
resonanceresonance Consumer targeting based on cognitive Consumer targeting based on cognitive
stagestage Increased reliance on trained experts and Increased reliance on trained experts and
small groups to “tune” finished winessmall groups to “tune” finished wines Greater emphasis on aesthetic training Greater emphasis on aesthetic training
and crosstraining to evaluate holistic and crosstraining to evaluate holistic quality imperativesquality imperatives
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Thank you
for your kind attention.