Western Fiberglass, Inc. · Western Fiberglass, Inc. is pleased to assist you in your site...

WWeesstteerrnn FFiibbeerrggllaassss,, IInncc.. 1555 Copperhill Parkway, Santa Rosa, CA 95403

Tech Support 707.591.9751, Main Office 707.523.2050

[email protected], www.westernfg.com

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION MANUAL 2013 Please read this manual completely prior to installation. These instructions do not supersede local laws and regulations. Always comply with local requirements.

Table of Contents

Co-Flex Pipe Page 2 to 12 Co-Flow Hydrostatic Monitoring System 3 to 14 Cuff Entries Page 15 to 18 Dispenser Mounting Assembly (DMA) Page 19 to 23 DMA Containment Frame Page 24 Tank Sump Page 25 to 29 Transition Sump Page 30 Vapor Pot Page 31 Vapor/Vent Sump Page 32

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Co-Flex™ Double Wall Pipe INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS

Please read this manual completely prior to installation. These instructions do not supersede local laws and regulations. Always comply with local requirements.

INTRODUCTION:

Co-Flex piping is an environmentally compatible, double wall, flexible piping system designed to be installed in Rockguard; our approved chase conduit (optional). Continuous piping runs connecting tanks and dispensers utilize sumps to contain and protect pipe terminations.

This installation guide is to be used by trained and certified installers. Please contact Western Fiberglass for certification information. Co-Flex warranty is valid only if installation and testing procedures described within this manual are followed by certified installation personnel.

CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION! Tech Support 707.591.9751, Main Office 707.523.2050 [email protected], www.westernfg.com

Copyright 2013 of 32

Co-Flex piping is currently available in 3", 2", 1 1/2”, 1", 3/4", 1/2" I.D.

Pipe Diameter (ID) Swivel Fittings System Coax Fitting System- 1 1/2" & 2" Only

3/4" Co-Flex SPC-0075 SMA-7575 SFA-7575 STB-0075 GTT-3836

Use w/Double Wall Only

1" Co-Flex SPC-0100 SMA-1010 SFA-1010 STB-0100 GTT-3836


1 1/2" Co-Flex SPC-0150 SMA-1520 SMA-1515 SCC-1515 STF-1515 CPC-1501 CPA-1520 CTF-1515 CEF-1515

Use w/Single Wall Only SEF-1515 SCC-1520 STB-0150 GCT-3810 GTT-3836 CRA-1515 CCC-1515 CPC-1502

Use w/Double Wall Only DAF-2150

2" Co-Flex SPC-0200 SMA-2020 SMA-2015 SCC-2020 STF-2020 CPC-2001 CPA-2020 CTF-2020 CEF-2020

Use w/Single Wall Only STF-2215 SEF-2020 SRE-2015 SRT-2151 SRT-2152 CRA-2020 CRA-2015 CPC-2002

Use w/Double Wall Only STB-0200 GCT-3811 GTT-3836

3" Co-Flex SPC-0300 SMA-3030 SCC-3030 STF-3030 SRT-3320

Use w/Single Wall Only SRT-3230 STB-0300 GCT-3812 GTT-3836


Co-Flex flexible piping system installation and testing procedures are unique. Traditional rigid metal or fiberglass piping procedures do not apply.

Western Fiberglass, Inc. is pleased to assist you in your site planning. Forward a copy of your site plan to our office for a prompt, computer generated piping layout and materials print out.

SPECIFICATIONS:

Compatibility: The Co-Flex piping system shall be UL-971 Listed to be compatible with all current UL tested motor vehicle fuels and blends:

100% ASTM Reference Fuel No. 2 100 % ASTM Reference Fuel C 85% Reference Fuel C – 15% MTBE 70% Reference Fuel C – 30% Ethanol 85% Reference Fuel C – 15% Methanol

Piping Applications: Co-Flex double wall piping is intended for underground use only. Co-Flex may be used for the following applications:

Pressure System Supply Piping Suction System Supply Piping Tank Vent Piping Stage II Vapor Recovery Piping Remote Fill Lines

Terminations: All piping terminations are to be within contained, accessible, sump areas to facilitate testing and inspection after installation.



Operating Pressures & Vacuums: Operating pressure should not exceed 75 psi or a vacuum of 29” Mercury.

Operating Temperatures: Operating temperatures should not exceed 150 degrees F or 66 degrees C.

Bend Radius: The listed bend radius should be followed to prevent cracking, kinking or breaking. Any kinked sections should not be used.

Pipe Diameter (ID) Minimum Bend Radius 3" 72" 2" 36"

1 1/2" 24" 1" 18"

3/4" 18"

On site air temperature does affect the flexibility during installation, the piping is more pliable when warm.

Testing: Primary piping for 3”, 2”, 1 ½”, 1” and ¾” shall be capable of maintaining 50 psi for a minimum of one (1) hour. Secondary interstitial space for 3”, 2”, 1 ½”, 1”, ¾” shall be capable of maintaining 10 psi for a minimum of one (1) hour. These tests may be performed after installation is complete, but before backfill. Allowed monitoring methods are by Pressure, Vacuum or Interstitial Liquid Level Monitoring (ILLM). Please note: the interstitial space of Co-Flex Piping has a capacity of approx. one (1) fluid ounce per linear foot. Care needs to be taken when pressurizing the secondary, add pressure slowly and do not exceed 10 psi during pressurization process. Always use safe procedures when pressure testing piping systems. Western Fiberglass, Inc. assumes no liability or responsibility for testing procedures.

Assembly: If using a conduit, Co-Flex double wall piping may only be installed within Rockguard (PI4531) using Western Fiberglass tools and fittings. Failure to do so may result in product failure and/or a void in system warranty.

Burial Requirements: Co-Flex requires proper burial procedures to ensure product durability. Please be sure to follow all trenching, backfill materials and burial depth requirements.

PLEASE NOTE: Co-Flex double wall piping is intended for installation in normal soil applications.

Storage & Transit: Co-Flex double wall pipe and fittings are not intended for storage or transport in direct sunlight or excessive temperatures. Mishandling during transport may cause product damage or result in leaks. Please be sure to inspect all materials prior to installation. Any product determined to have been damaged may not be used.



PIPING ROUTE DESIGN:

Flexible piping system routes and excavation requirements are quite different than for traditional ridged pipe. Direction changes are made with “sweeps” rather than 90’s or 45’s. In most installations, pipe trenching requirements are reduced.

Series system type piping runs are continuous, with the piping originating from one sump and passing through additional sumps until termination.

Series routing is most desirable for pressure systems. The piping system runs from the tank sump to each successive dispenser. All piping terminations are to be within enclosed sump areas, not direct buried. Single and/or dual pipe lines can be installed to accommodate any total number of product dispensers. Note: 1 1/2” I.D. Co-Flex piping is typically suitable for continuous operation of up to six (6) product dispenser nozzles.

Suction system routing requires direct runs where each dispenser is connected to the tank sump via it’s own pipe line.

After installation of conduit, the flexible pipe is pulled through the conduit by threading a cap with an “I” bolt to the pipe termination and attaching a rope or cord.



PIPING TRENCHES:

Trenches should be at least twice the width of all piping and/or conduits to be installed within. One pipe diameter spacing between each pipe run is required.

Piping systems requiring “fall” should have a minimum of 1% or 1/8” per linear foot from pipe run termination point back to the tank sump(s).

The recommended backfill and trench bed material is rounded pea gravel 1/8” to 3/4” in diameter. Crushed stone, 1/8” to 0.5”, and/or river sand may be used if washed and it is free flowing.

A 6” bed of recommended backfill material, free from any debris, is placed in the piping trench prior to installation.

Co-Flex piping installed under reinforced concrete surfaces of a minimum of 4” (100mm) thickness require a minimum cover of 6” (150 mm) of the recommended backfill material.

Asphalt, 2” (50mm) minimum thickness, requires 6” (150mm) minimum cover of the recommended backfill material.



Unpaved surfaces require a minimum of 14” (350mm) cover of recommended backfill material.

After pressure testing is complete, care must be taken to insure even distribution and packing of the backfill material around the piping during the back fill process. Hand shovel material around and over piping to insure correct spacing is maintained. Backfill slowly.

Additional care should be taken when initially filling the piping system to insure that all air is removed from the product piping prior to starting any pumps to prevent damage. Be certain that the operating pressure of the pumping system does not exceed the maximum operating pressure of the Co-Flex piping of 75 psi.

Periodic testing of both the primary and secondary sections of the Co-Flex system may be performed at any time after installation.

Please see installation instructions for DMA, dispenser mounting assemblies, and Western Fiberglass, Inc. tank sumps for details on piping penetrations.

MEASURING PIPE RUNS:

Co-Flex piping is available in 250’, 500’ or 1000’ lengths. It may be ordered by the foot if required. The greatest care is taken after manufacture to package and ship your piping to insure against damage. Do not drag Co-Flex along the ground, step or place heavy objects on top of the pipe. Cold weather will affect the flexibility. Leaving the pipe coils in the sun prior to installation will make them more pliable and easier to handle. In extreme cold weather, store the piping indoors, at room temperature before measuring and cutting. A personal type hair dryer can be inserted into one end of the pipe coil to warm up and relax the pipe. Cut and discard the first 12” (300mm) of pipe where any heating device has been attached. This section may be damaged by heat exposure.

The Co-Flex termination fittings are 5” in length. 2” of pipe is inserted within the termination. An additional 3” is added to the total pipe length at each end of each pipe run by the installation of the terminations. For example, if the required pipe length between the internal or “T” connections inside two separated dispenser boxes is a total of 32’ 9”, you must subtract 6” to account for the terminations at each end of the pipe length. This pipe length will now be 32’ 3” before termination.

When measuring pipe lengths, use a pre-stretched line or flat tape to calculate the distance between connection points.

Be certain to account for all sweeps and additional pipe lengths required within containment sumps for all connections before cutting.



Co-Flex piping may be installed “lazy” within the piping trench. It does not have to be stretched straight or tight and can be routed to accommodate any pipe run requirements. It is important to maintain proper fall or slope.

Piping lengths can be cut and terminated outside of the piping trench for ease of installation.

Piping lengths may be pre-cut and terminated off-site.

CUTTING AND TERMINATION:

Co-Flex piping may be cut with any clean, sharp instrument. Be certain to make all cuts square and even.

1). Cut Co-Flex pipe to proper lengths.

PLEASE NOTE: Slip Test/Crossover boot over pipe ends prior to installation of pipe terminations.

SECONDARY PIPE

PRIMARY PIPE

2). Strip off final 2” (50mm) of outer containment jacket and remove. This can be done with a razor knife. Be careful not to cut primary pipe outer jacket.

FOR SWAGE FITTINGS:

3). The swaging machine may be manual, electric or pneumatic (See product data). The procedure for preparation of the pipe end is the same for all types.

4). Attach proper guide block to swage ram unit. (Not used with female fittings.)

5). Insert draw bar through ram unit.

6). Carefully oil or grease the inside of the piping termination.



7). Insert pipe termination thread first into guide block on ram unit.

8). Screw swage mandrel onto draw bar and firmly against and partly within the pipe termination.

9). Grease or oil swage mandrel to insure a smooth swage draw cycle.

10). Slide termination swage sleeve (silver) over termination.

11). Insert pipe onto termination and inside swage sleeve. Must be in at least 1 1/2” or until just visible through holes in swage sleeve.

12). Hand pump or push button to draw swage mandrel through pipe termination.

13). Release pump pressure and remove fitting.

14). When installing swage fittings, hand-tighten the coupling onto the Western Fiberglass fitting until snug. Using a Co-Flex wrench, tighten the coupling nut ¼ turn more or to 200 in/lbs. without allowing the pipe to rotate while tightening.

CAUTION: Do not over tighten. This may result in damage to the coupling or potential leaks in the system!

CAUTION: Do not allow sealant to contact the threads of the swage fitting!

15). Remove the protective cap from the coax pipe coupling and verify that the o-ring seals are clean and properly seated in their o-ring grooves. Remove the plastic protective cap from the coax adapter, fitting or connector and inspect the inside sealing surface to make sure it is smooth, undamaged and free of dirt. Position the coax coupling to the male threaded port of the coax fitting. This connection seals by way of static o-ring seals and does not require pipe sealant. Thread the coax swivel nut onto the male threaded port by hand, until the coupling bottoms out onto the fitting and stop. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUT.

CAUTION: Do not use sealant inside coax couplings or on the connection threads. This may result in a gasket failure!

PLEASE NOTE: Use only Dow Corning 55 O-Ring Lubricant or equivalent when cleaning or replacing coax o-rings.

16). The ¾” and 1” Co-Flex pipe couplings are fixed male NPT fittings and are assembled as rigid steel pipe. After installing the appropriate test boot, apply a liberal amount of thread sealant or Teflon tape to the threads of the coupling and tighten to 20 ft/lbs.

17). The jacket of double wall Co-Flex piping must be tested to ensure liquid tightness. Connect all test and connector tubes into the test boot or coax fittings. Tighten all



band clamps to 30 in/lbs. For coax fittings, use only CTT-3836 test tubes with Teflon tape. DO NOT USE METALLIC FITTINGS IN COAX TEST PORTS – THIS WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COAX FITTING.

CAUTION: Swaging must be done in one complete action, do not stop once you have started!

PLEASE NOTE: Use only Western Fiberglass approved terminations.

DIRECT CONNECTION™ FITTINGS:

Direct Connection fittings use (2) band clamps per fitting. Install with bolts in opposing directions (see details).

CAUTION: KEEP ALL FITTINGS AND PIPE ENDS CLEAN! 18). Lubricate the clamp bolt threads and the clamp tongue with a white silicon spray lubricant. Do not lubricate the inside of the pipe or outside of the barbed section of the pipe fitting. 19). After removing 3.75 to 4 inches of the outer jacket, heat the primary pipe. Have clamps lubricated using white lithium grease and ready. 20). Coat the open end of the pipe fitting with the approved WFG bonder, insuring you have equal coverage of bonder (1/4” bead) on the pipe fitting covering the 2nd outer barb. 21). Heat the exposed section of pipe. Use caution not to overheat, you should be able to grasp the pipe for only a couple of seconds before pipe feels hot to the touch. Run the pipe through the penetration fitting. Prior to inserting the pipe over the pipe fitting make sure pipe is still warm, place the test boot and clamps (with bolts in opposing directions) over the pipe and install to the pipe fitting. 22). Clamps are to be placed no more than ¼” apart. The first clamp is to be no less than ¼” from the pipe end. Using a torque wrench, set the band clamps at 120 inch pounds for 1.5” pipe and 160 inch pounds for 2” pipe. After all pipes are installed and prior to testing, re-torque all band clamps. PLEASE NOTE: Use only Western Fiberglass approved products.



INSTALLING PIPE LENGTHS:

After test/crossover boots, and if required crossover supports, have been installed and pipe termination has been swaged on, insert pipe through pipe penetration boots one side at time. Remove penetration hose clamp or loosen first for ease of installation.

Prepare coupling fitting and attach Co-Flex termination fitting (male or female) to connector within sump area/s. Tighten.

Position pipe within trench. Lay out piping runs while maintaining separation between pipe lengths and at crossover points.

TEST & CROSSOVER BOOT/TUBING INSTALLATION:

The Test/Crossover Assembly Boots are attached to the Co-Flex Piping ends to provide a sealed access and test point for the interstitial/secondary space within the pipe. The Test/Crossover Boots utilizes two (2) #28 stainless steel hose clamps which when tightened around the termination fitting swage sleeve and the Co-Flex outer jacket isolate the interstitial space. An air valve stem is installed in the boot on the bottom for an outlet opening for connecting the crossover and/or test tubes. These tubes are used for the testing of and the interconnection of the interstitial space from pipe section to pipe section. Crossover tube assemblies are used for junctions within dispenser sumps, pipe to pipe in line connections, piping run termination points, tank sump connection points and any piping manifold connection points.

Test/Crossover Boots and tubes are fitted and tightened in place after the piping terminations and their connections have been made.

After installation and tightening of all test and crossover boots and tubes pressure testing may be done. (See Above).



INITIAL PIPE SYSTEM FILLING:

Upon completion of connection and testing of your Co-Flex system, initial filling of the system may begin. Be careful to provide a venting point or place that will allow any air within the piping to escape during this initial filling. Do not operate any pumping devices until all air has been purged from piping system. Small bubbles trapped within the system will be purged under normal operating conditions. Do not exceed the safe operating pressure of the Co-Flex piping of 75 psi.

MAINTENANCE AND INSPECTION:

Monthly inspections are recommended inside all containment sumps. All sumps must be kept free of fuel, water and debris. While changing fuel filters, be sure to clean any excess fuel that may spill into the containment sump. Any fuel leaks must be reported and investigated by the site owner. If any leaks or damage to the piping system are detected, immediately notify Western Fiberglass at (707) 523-2050.

CAUTION: Ignoring or disabling leak detection alarms can lead to further damage and possible system failure!



Co-Flow Hydrostatic Monitoring System (Pipe) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please read all instructions completely prior to installation. These instructions do not supersede local laws and regulations. Always comply with local requirements.

COMPONENT INSTALLATION:

1). Un-pack system components and inspect for any damaged or missing parts. 2). Install mounting brackets for reservoir to inside of dispenser sump or tank sump

with hardware provided. Mount reservoir tank to brackets. Reservoir should be mounted vertically with ease of access to connection fittings and sight port(s) and at top of double wall portion of the sump.

3). Connect test tubes to reservoir fitting ports in reservoir bottom flange. Ensure the

hose at the bottom of the canister is long enough to reach the fill port.

SYSTEM FILLING: 4). Connect pump transfer hose to lower sump reservoir valve. Open upper

reservoir cap. Pump fluid into system. 5). As you fill, fluid from the interstitial space of the pipe run fills into the upper

reservoir. Continue to fill slowly until half the upper reservoir tank is full. 6). Shut off lower reservoir fill valve and remove fluid pump hose. 7). Insert and install level monitor according to manufacturer’s instructions. 8). Allow fluid level to settle for 24 hours. Adjust level accordingly.

SERVICE & MAINTENANCE: 9). Periodic inspection of monitor fluid reservoir levels and connection tightness

should be performed at least 2x per year. 10). If necessary, re-connect monitor fluid storage container and pump assembly to

lower tank sump reservoir and re-fill as required. DO NOT SUBSTITUTE OTHER FLUIDS.



Co-Flow Hydrostatic Monitoring System (Sumps) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

COMPONENT INSTALLATION:

1). Un-pack system components and inspect for any damaged or missing parts. 2). Mount fluid canister where it will be out of the way of any moving parts. Ensure

the hose at the bottom of the canister is long enough to reach the fill port.

3). Using Teflon tape, thread in barbed pipe fitting to FRP coupling on the inside of

the sump.

SYSTEM FILLING:

4). Attach pump to the fill port and fill sump until fluid starts to come out of the bleeder hole.

5). Quickly remove the pump hose from the barbed fitting in the fill port. Attach ¼”

hose between the pipe fitting and canister. 6). Fill the canister until fluid is just below the site glass so that when the sensor is

installed, the level is visible. 7). Allow 24-hour period for fluid level to settle. Adjust level accordingly. 8). Insert and install level monitor according to manufacturer’s instructions.

SERVICE & MAINTENANCE: 9). Periodic inspection of monitor fluid reservoir levels and connection tightness

should be performed at least 2x per year.

10). If necessary, re-connect pump and re-fill as required. DO NOT SUBSTITUTE OTHER

FLUIDS.



FRP Cuff Entries INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS


CUFF BONDING: 1). Locate penetration on the outside of the sump. Using a hole-saw of the

appropriate size, drill hole for penetration: 1.4” Cuff = 3” Hole Saw 1.5”, 2”, 2.4” 2.7” Cuff = 4.5” Hole Saw 3.6” Cuff = 5.5” Hole Saw 4.5” Cuff = 6.5” Hole Saw On both the inside and the outside of the sump, grind an area that is at least 4” greater than the flat portion of the fiberglass cuff. Make sure the bonding surface is clean and dry. If there is not enough room between penetrations, the square base of the cuff can be trimmed so that they do not overlap each other.

2). Ensure the bonding surfaces of the cuff pieces are sanded and clean. Insert the smaller of the cuff pieces from the outside of the sump through the hole so that the square base is as tight up against the sump wall as possible, and centered in the hole. Use catalyzed putty to immobilize the cuff. Seal and smooth the transition from cuff to sump with a squeegee. If the fiberglass is not going to be applied immediately, get the putty very smooth. If any bumps or ridges are present after the putty hardens, they will have to be sanded smooth to ensure a good laminate.

3). Cut or tear pieces of fiberglass mat into 3” strips that are long enough to extend past the corners of the cuff. You will need a minimum of 16 pieces for each cuff (inside and out).

4). Use a piece of cardboard or other suitable surface to pre-wet the fiberglass mat pieces, two layers at a time with catalyzed resin, making sure to thoroughly saturate all the fibers. Place the mat around the perimeter of the square base of the cuff, sealing all edges and rolling out all of the air bubbles from the laminations. Get the laminations as smooth and consistent in thickness as possible. When the fiberglass has partially set up, it is possible to trim any excess with a razor knife. If the surface of the laminate is good and smooth, paint or “flow-coat” the entire surface with catalyzed resin to further smooth out the fiberglass.

5). If installing double wall cuff, wait until laminations have cured, center the larger of the two cuff pieces over the cuff on the inside of the sump. Laminate these pieces in the same manner as in step 4 above.

6). Allow cuff to cure for 2 hours.



7). When the cuff is fully cured, trim the smaller cuff so that it protrudes no more than 1” beyond the larger cuff. Sand the exposed edges and surfaces of the cuffs, ensuring that the exposed edges and surfaces to be bonded are sanded thoroughly. It is important that these surfaces be smooth and clean.

BOOT BONDING:

8). Dry fit the boot onto the cuff plate before beginning this procedure. The boot should be slightly snug on the cuff plate. If boot requires force to install dry, lightly sand the area the boot will be bonded on the cuff to provide a proper fit. Use a medium grit sand paper. Any trimming that that is required must be performed at this point in time.

9). Abrade the inside of the inner boot with a clean wire brush or 70% isopropyl alcohol prior to bonding boot to the cuff plate.

10). Lightly sand the part of the cuff plate to which the boot will be applied. Clean this area with 70% isopropyl alcohol within 12 hours of bonding. This will provide for a maximum bond strength.

11). Place a ¼” bead of WFG bonder (DWAC600) on the outer ribbed area of the boot which to be attached to the fiberglass cuff. Work the bonder into the ribs of the boot. Apply a small amount of bonder to the outer edge of the fiberglass cuff to act as a lubricant.

12). Slide the boot onto the cuff plate. Rotate the boot a ¼ turn as the boot is being installed on the cuff plate.

13). Snug the boot to the cuff using the provided stainless steel clamp. This is to provide pressure on the joint during bonding. Over tightening of the clamp may cause the boot to slip off the cuff.

14). The torque on the stainless steel clamp around the boot can be increased once the bonder has become rubbery and feels dry to the touch. Do not exceed 60 inch pounds torque on the stainless steel clamp fastener.

15). Insert centralizer into back of cuff. This prevents pressure on the cuff.

16). If double wall application, install the outer boot (repeat steps 1-7). 17). Clean the pipe to be inserted through the cuff. Next, insert the pipe into the cuff

from the outside of the sump. Care should be taken not to contaminate the boot to pipe or the boot to boot sealing areas as this may become a source of leaks.



18). Tighten the clamp on the boot(s) around the pipe until snug. Do not exceed 60 inch pounds torque on the stainless steel clamp fastener.

Note: It is not necessary to bond the cuff boot to the pipe.

FOR RETROFIT INSTALLATION:

19). Remove existing penetration boots. Sand a 13” minimum square about the center of the pipe, making sure to remove all sealant material from the previous penetration. Wipe surface clean with acetone.

20). Ensure the bonding surface of the two-piece cuff is sanded and clean. Place the two pieces around the pipe and butt fit them making sure that all mating surfaces are flush. Temporarily secure the pieces to each other using a hose clamp.

21). Attach the cuff assembly to the wall of the sump with either hot glue or some other fast setting glue, making sure to center the pipe within the cuff. To make sure that the cuff is bonded correctly, place the split between the two pieces horizontally so that there is not a seam on the bottom that will have to be performed “blind”. When the hot glue or other fast setting glue has set up, remove the hose clamp installed earlier.

22). Protect the pipe and any other equipment with some form of masking paper or tape to minimize the mess when bonding the cuff to the sump. Cut or tear pieces of fiberglass mat into 3”x13” strips. You will need a minimum of 10 pieces for each cuff.

23). Apply catalyzed putty to fill and smooth over the edges of the cuff where it meets the sump and also where the two pieces come together. If the fiberglass is not going to be applied immediately, get the putty very smooth. If any bumps or ridges are present after the putty hardens, they will have to be sanded smooth to ensure a good laminate.

24). Use a piece of cardboard or other suitable surface to pre-wet the fiberglass mat pieces, two layers at a time with catalyzed resin, making sure to thoroughly saturate all the fibers. Place the mat around the perimeter of the square base of the cuff, sealing all edges. Wrap mat around the round part of the cuff making sure to seal all of the mating edges and rolling out all of the air bubbles from the laminations. Get the laminations as smooth and consistent in thickness as possible. When the fiberglass has partially set up, it is possible to trim any excess with a razor knife being extremely careful not to nick the pipe. If the surface of the laminate is good and smooth, paint or “flow-coat” the entire surface with catalyzed resin to further smooth out the fiberglass.

25). When the cuff is fully cured, sand the exposed edge and surface of the round portion of the cuff where the boot is to be bonded on.

26). Place the split boot over the pipe and glue the edges of the “split” with Bulkhead Bonder. It is not necessary to put the boot over the cuff at this time. Use hose clamps to temporarily hold the boot together just tight enough to



make sure the split stays together. After the glue has dried, loosen the hose clamps.

27). Bond boot to cuff as per steps 8-17 above.



Dispenser Mounting Assembly (DMA) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please read this manual completely prior to installation. These instructions do not supersede local laws and regulations. Always comply with local requirements. The DMA is a simple design that incorporates either a fiberglass or a poly-composite leak containment sump, U.L. Listed independent dispenser base anchor and safety valve mounting systems into one complete unit. The DMA is supplied with a containment sump unit, pre-installed mounting assemblies for emergency valves, and concrete mounting anchors for each dispenser anchor bolt (according to dispenser model #).

OPTIONS: Additional options are the Splashguard rain and wash-down water shield, Installation Doors and the Retro-Fit Bracket System. Custom mounting plates or other devices available.

DISPENSER BASE ANCHORS: The dispenser mount anchor is a 2” x 1/2” threaded coupling with two 1” x 1/2” bolts, and one 1” x 3” x 100 ml steel concrete anchor bar. This anchor assembly is mounted in the dispenser base mount position(s), based on dispenser make and model # on the flange of the DMA before pouring concrete. If not pre-installed from factory, install the 1” x1/2” bolt and 1” x 3” anchor bar into one end of the coupling. Put the other 1” x 1/2” bolt into the other end of the DMA box at the correct dispenser mount positions. When concrete is poured, this assembly will be anchored into the concrete. After the concrete has cured, remove the 1” x 1/2” bolts from the top of the DMA flange and use them to mount the dispenser. The Retro-Fit dispenser base anchors are 4” X 1/2” “J” bolts placed in the DMA flange prior to positioning the DMA in the island form. The Retro Brackets become anchored during the concrete pour. The “J” bolts provide a 1/2” stud for dispenser mounting.



SAFETY/IMPACT VALVE ANCHORS: The “Unistrut”, channel mount, emergency valve mounting assembly for the DMA allows full 3-axis adjustment of the shear/safety valve. It will also allow the addition of extra shear valve brackets for future installations of different dispenser models using the same dispenser base configuration. The 3-axis channel mounting system is designed to be used with the “Boss” type safety valve mounts. The lateral channel rails have mount bolts that extend through the side of the DMA. The concrete anchor/securing bars are attached to these bolts on the outside of the DMA (change from shipping positions if required, see drawing). The standard concrete anchor bars have holes for a piece of 3/8” re-bar on each side of the DMA box, through the anchor bars, to be installed prior to concrete pour. PLEASE NOTE: The safety/shear valve concrete anchor bars and dispenser base anchor tabs or bolts must be in the proper position and securely in place prior to pouring concrete. (See Drawing Details For Correct Positions) Use Listed/Approved watertight penetrations only for both the piping and conduit entry on U. L. Listed sumps, and follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

STANDARD INSTALLATION AND ASSEMBLY: Prior to installing the DMA in position in the island form, assemble the DMA unit including bolting in the dispenser base mount anchors; moving the safety valve “Boss” mount channel brackets to the correct position and brace. You may lay a piece of flat or angled stock metal, wood or re-bar underneath the DMA dispenser mounting flange to suspend the DMA between the island form framework. Support the bottom of the DMA with pea gravel or other suitable material. Plumb product piping and electrical conduit into DMA as required. Secure and/or tighten the valve bar and dispenser base assemblies to prevent any movement during your pour.

RETRO-FIT INSTALLATION AND ASSEMBLY: The Retro-Fit Bracket Assemblies are designed for use with the shallow DMA series. Saw cut a hole in the island surface one and one half inch (1 1/2”) longer and one and one half inch (1 1/2”) wider than the O.D. of the DMA flange. Example, a 11X 42 inch DMA has a approx. 1 1/2 inch flange making the DMA overall 14 X 45 inches. Your saw cut hole for this size DMA would be 15 1/2 X 46 1/2 inches. Be sure to measure the overall dimensions of the DMA before cutting island surface. Cut and stub off piping and conduit so that they are vertical and can be installed through the bottom of the DMA sump while allowing enough length to pass through penetrations and connect to any extensions required. Drill corresponding holes in DMA bottom and fit U.L. Listed penetrations. Locate DMA in position and support with pea gravel or other suitable



material to correct height. Install “J” bolts and safety valve anchor bars to DMA. Plumb product piping and conduits as required.

CONCRETE GUIDELINES:

Pour concrete up to, but DO NOT cover, the dispenser mount flange on top of DMA.

DISPENSER MOUNTING AND HOOKUP:

After concrete has fully cured, remove dispenser base mount bolts or “J” bolt hardware, caulk DMA flange with suitable material to prevent water intrusion, mount dispenser and connect piping/electrical system. Please review the enclosed details/drawings.

SINGLE WALL TESTING: After concrete has cured and all penetrations have been sealed, you may test the integrity of the sump and penetrations with water. Always follow all local regulations and restrictions.

DOUBLE WALL TESTING: After completion of the integrity test, you may test the sump under pressure, vacuum or liquid. For pressure, apply up to 2 psi to the test port(s) installed within the sump body interstitial space. Under vacuum, the sump may be tested to a minimum of 15” and a maximum of full vacuum at 29.95”. Always follow all local regulations and restrictions. PLEASE NOTE: U. L. Listed DMA sumps require a listed, approved, electronic monitor/alarm system to be installed for operator notification in the event of product leakage into sump area.

ADDITIONAL TESTING REQUIREMENTS – STATE OF FLORIDA ONLY: Leak Test Requirement:

1) a. Fill entire sump within 4 to 6 inches of top. b. Observe water level for a minimum of 3 hours.

c. Water level shall not decrease more than allowable for normal evaporation.

2) a. Fill interstitial space of sump within 4 to 6 inches of top. b. Observe water level. c. Water level shall not decrease more than allowable for normal evaporation.



Interstitial space shall be tested by vacuum (5 bars) or pressure (2 psi) for a minimum of 10 minutes.

MAINTENANCE AND INSPECTION:

Fiberglass containment sumps require periodic inspections to check for damage that can occur during operation or from natural causes. Any shatters, tears or cracks must to be repaired so as to bring the damaged area equal in strength to the original section. Any above ground exposure must be covered by UV protection either in original construction or with gel coats or pigments. Poly-Composite containment sumps require periodic inspections to check for damage that may occur either in operation or from natural causes. Any shatters, tears or cracks cannot be repaired as in fiberglass containment sumps. Poly-Composite containment sumps have no UV protection and are for below ground use only. Periodically inspect the DMA base mounting and safety/impact valve anchor bracket systems. Check these for tightness and any visual damage, cracks or corrosion. Containment sumps and their bracket, seal and mounting anchors can be inspected during the normal maintenance and service procedures done on the dispenser filters, submersible pumps and other equipment that is installed within the sumps (see manufacturer’s equipment maintenance instructions).

DMA DOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PLEASE NOTE: Return tools to acetone between use to prevent bonding materials from drying on them.



1). Pre-Bonding Surface Preparation: Use medium to heavy grit sand paper, scuff up all seam areas a minimum of 2” each side of the door/box. It is very important that this be done fully, as the bonding materials will not adhere to any surface that has not been sanded. BE SURE TO WEAR A DUST MASK!!

2). Seam Laminations: ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES WHEN HANDLING FIBERGLASS BONDING

MATERIALS! Lay out and tear/cut fiberglass material at each seam to be bonded (two per seam). Mix one (1) pint resin and one half pint (1/2) putty material per door in a large bucket at a time, for ease of handling. Hardener ratio at 70 degrees F. & 30% humidity is two (2) ounces per gallon for resin and one (1) ounce for putty. This will vary with temperature and direct sunlight. If used in direct sunlight or in temperatures above 80 degrees, reduce hardener as per instructions from supervisor or Western Fiberglass, Inc. personnel. Mix thoroughly, scraping the sides of the buckets with the stir stick.

Use squeegee or brush, and apply putty liberally to area of first seam, being sure to

completely cover all fasteners, if used and fill all gaps. The putty will provide a smooth transition for the fiberglass material to cover. The fiberglass material does not like to make 90 degree turns, this is why we use the putty to create a smooth surface with no sharp turns for the fiberglass. Lay first piece of fiberglass material across seam area evenly.

Wet-out or soak, with brush, liquid resin over fiberglass cloth material completely,

material will go clear when fully saturated. Use pig bristle type roller tool to “roll-out” air bubbles gently, so as not to displace putty. Remove all bubbles. Apply second layer of material in same manner. Your laminate should appear clear, with no air bubbles or pockets in view and all fasteners covered.

If additional resin is required, use only resin from Western Fiberglass, Inc. The resin used in construction of all Western Fiberglass, Inc. components is corrosion resistant resin, made for use in fuel and chemical applications.

3). Test Procedures: After the door bond is completed, you may test the integrity of

your seal. This is important to insure that the door will not allow any contained fluid to leak. Check with local regulations for required testing procedures. A common test procedure is to fill the sump with water after the door bond has completely cured, usually overnight, and observe bond seam for any leaks.



Fiberglass UDC Transition Containment Frame INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS


1). Inspect Containment Frame upon receipt for any shipment damage. (Please note any freight damage on the freight bill and notify Western Fiberglass immediately @ 707.523.2050).

2). Ensure that the Containment Frame is properly sized for the existing dispenser containment and the new dispenser.

3). Minor trimming of the frame may be necessary to accommodate installed components.

4). Remove existing dispenser, splashguard and dispenser anchor bolts. 5). Install new anchor bolts as per manufacturer’s installation instructions. 6). Ensure that the bolt pattern for the new splashguard is the same as the new

dispenser. Trace footprint of new splashguard to concrete. 7). Clean all surfaces to be sealed as per adhesive/sealant instructions. 8). Apply Western Fiberglass approved sealant between concrete and new

splashguard. Apply minimum ½” bead. It is strongly recommended that the seam between the existing containment and existing concrete be resealed.

9). Install new Fiberglass UDC Transition Containment Frame. 10). Test containment frame:

a. Pour water at all areas inside of new splashguard and ensure water is directed toward existing containment sump.

b. Inspect outside of new splashguard for any signs of liquid and/or moisture. c. If moisture is found outside the new splashguard, identify leak and repair. d. Allow to cure overnight and re-test. e. Remove all water from the containment sump.

11). Re-install dispenser.



Tank Sump INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS


PRE-BONDING SURFACE PREPARATION:

BE SURE TO WEAR A DUST MASK! After positioning sumps onto tank collar or after placing reducer on sump riser tube, use disc sander, with medium to heavy grit sand paper, to scuff up all seam areas a minimum of 4” each side of the point where the components join. It is very important that this be done fully, as the bonding materials will not adhere to any surface that has not been sanded. Brush sanding dust from seam areas and clean with acetone.

SEAM LAMINATIONS:

CAUTION: Always wear gloves when handling fiberglass bonding materials!

Use one plastic bucket with acetone to clean roller, brushes and squeegee. Return tools to this bucket between use to prevent bonding materials from drying on them. BE SURE TO SHAKE THE ACETONE OUT OF TOOLS BEFORE RE-USE!

Lay out 3 oz. fiberglass mat at each seam to be bonded.

Add hardener to resin & putty. Hardener ratio at 70 degrees F. & 30% humidity is two (2) ounces per gallon for resin and one (1) ounce for putty (baseline is 2% for resin and 1% for putty based on volume). This will vary with temperature and direct sunlight. If used in direct sunlight or in temperatures above 80 degrees, reduce hardener as per instructions from supervisor or Western Fiberglass, Inc. personnel. Mix thoroughly, scraping the sides of the buckets with the stir stick.

Use masking tape to tape all seams. Use squeegee and apply putty liberally to area of first seam, being sure to completely cover all fasteners and fill all gaps. The putty will



provide a smooth transition for the fiberglass material to cover. The fiberglass material does not like to make 90 degree turns, this is why we use the putty to create a smooth surface with no sharp turns for the fiberglass. Lay fiberglass material across seam area evenly.

Wet-out or soak with brush, liquid resin over fiberglass cloth material completely, material will go clear when fully saturated. Use roller to “roll-out” air bubbles gently, so as not to displace putty. Remove all bubbles. Your laminate should appear clear, with no air bubbles or pockets in view and all fasteners covered. If additional resin is required, use only resin from Western Fiberglass, Inc. The resin used in construction of all Western Fiberglass, Inc. components is corrosion resistant resin, made for use in fuel and chemical applications.

CONTAINMENT COLLARS FOR FRP SUMPS:

Sumps without bottoms are used on tanks with containment collars that have been attached by the manufacturer. After determining correct sump size, slip the sump inside or outside of the containment collar ring. Use a bond kit (Part # AC8007) to bond sump tube to tank collar. See bonding instructions.

DIRECT CONNECTION FOR FRP TANKS:

FRP sumps may be attached directly to FRP or FRP clad tanks without collars. Sump Riser Tubes are cut to tank diameter and are direct bonded using Atprime. Contact us for special bonding instructions.

FRP MANWAYS OR HDPE POLYCON:

Please call WFG for double wall instructions. Sumps that are to be attached to manways require a bottom and may be ordered pre-drilled for the manway cover bolt pattern and/or cut to manway size. After removing the manway lid, use it as a template for cutting and drilling the sump bottom if necessary. Caulk manway riser, set sump into position, caulk around holes set lid inside sump and bolt together. This



“sandwiches” the sump between the riser and lid assembly of the tank. Use a recognized material, second, tank/man-way gasket. We suggest the gasket kit from your tank supplier.

SUMP REDUCERS:

To prevent leakage and to insure unit integrity, all FRP sump reducers must be slip fitted over the sump body or tube, bonded and sealed. See Bonding Instructions above.

SUMP LIDS:

If applicable, inspect the gasket in the lid to make sure it is free of damage or debris. Also make sure the surface of the reducer where the gasket will come in contact is clean and smooth. Lubricate the gasket with grease.

“TC” or Friction lids simply slip over the reducer top. Type “B” lids utilize rubber tie downs to hold the lid securely against the sealing gasket on the reducer rim. Type “A” lids are gasketed and bolted watertight with wing nuts, lock and flat washers.

TWIST-SEAL LID:

1). Align the arrow on the edge of the lid with the arrow on the side of the reducer.



2). Place lid into reducer and turn in a clock-wise direction until gasket is firmly seated.

3). FOR VACUUM TESTING: Re-test sump(s) with vacuum. Pull maximum of 10 inches of vacuum for 1 hour.

SUMP PENETRATIONS:

Piping and electrical conduit penetrations are made using only a Listed/Approved penetration, sealing device. Use care when drilling through filament wound sump riser tubes. Do not force hole saw, for FRP sumps, cut hole slowly, half way through from both sides (inside and out) to prevent fraying of filament strands. Always use correct size hole saw or drill. Do not fiberglass bond piping or conduit directly to FRP sumps as this will not allow any movement, due to ground settling, back-fill, etc.

ADDITIONAL INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS – STATE OF FLORIDA ONLY: Leak Test Requirement:

a. Fill interstitial space of sump within 4 to 6 inches of top. b. Observe water level. c. Water level shall not decrease more than allowable for normal evaporation.

Interstitial space shall be tested by vacuum (5 bars) or pressure (2 psi) for a minimum of 10 minutes.

BACKFILL REQUIREMENTS:

Sufficient backfill must be used below and along the sump side to provide support and protection against ground movement.

TEST PROCEDURES FOR SINGLE WALL:

After the sump to tank fitting is completed, you shall test the integrity of your seal. This is important to insure that the sump riser tube / tank bond will not allow any contained fluid to leak. Check with local regulations for required testing procedures. A common test procedure is to fill the sump with water after the sump / tank bond has completely cured, usually overnight, and observe bond seam for any leaks.

PLEASE NOTE: U.L. Listed sumps require a listed, approved, electronic monitor/alarm system to be installed for operator notification in the event of product leakage within sump area.



TEST PROCEDURES FOR DOUBLE WALL:

After completion of the sump body test as described above, you may test the sump body interstitial space. To pressurize, apply no more than 2 psi to the port(s) installed within the sump body. To pull vacuum, a maximum of 10 inches may be applied for 1 hour. For test times or other requirements, always follow local regulations and restrictions.

PLEASE NOTE: U.L. Listed sumps require a listed, approved, electronic monitor/alarm system to be installed for operator notification in the event of product leakage within sump area.



INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Transition Sump

1. Place sump in desired position. Make all necessary plumbing and electrical

penetrations and connections.

2. Sand the vertical flange at the top of the transition box to ensure a smooth, clean surface free of any pipe dope, grease, etc. Sand the underside horizontal surface of the top where it meets the surface of the box flange, making sure to get the corners.

3. Surfaces to be bonded must be clean and dry. Apply liberal bead (1/2” or better) of Western Fiberglass SS218 Adhesive to horizontal flange on transition sump and immediately place top onto sump. Secure top with drywall screws making sure to drive screws into the outer edge of the box flange. Smooth out the adhesive on the inside of the sump and check for any voids. Allow adhesive to cure.

4. Cut off vertical portion of the top where it overhangs the sump flange. Remove screws. Grind the bottom of the sump flange and 3” of the edge of the top, through the gel coat and into the fiberglass. Round off, or bevel the edges and corners of the sump and top.

5. Cut/tear 4” or 6” fiberglass mat into lengths that are easy to work with (usually about 18”). Prepare a wet-out surface (a piece of flat cardboard works well) near to the sump being worked on. Apply catalyzed putty to screw holes and the edge of the top/flange. The fiberglass can be applied directly to the wet putty. If putty is allowed to dry before the fiberglass is applied, sand smooth. Wet out the fiberglass mat pieces with catalyzed resin and apply a minimum of two layers (should be put on at the same time) around the edge of the top/flange using a fiberglass specific roller to work out all the air bubbles. If any large bubbles or voids are present in the seam after the resin has cured, it will be necessary to lightly sand the imperfections, apply more putty and two more layers of fiberglass to ensure a water-tight seal.

RECOMMENDED INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE

6. Periodic visual inspection for fluid in the sump. 7. If any portion of the sump remains above-ground, a periodic layer of gel

coat may be re-applied. 8. Any applicable required testing (varies by state).



Vapor Pot INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please read this manual completely prior to installation. These instructions do not supersede local laws and regulations. Always comply with local requirements. Stage II Vapor Pots provide a step up point for vapor recovery piping runs that cannot maintain sufficient slope towards the UST, underground storage tank. Vapor sumps are available in single or double wall construction to satisfy local jurisdictional requirements. Vapor pots may be vertical or horizontal oriented. The sumps may be emptied or drained by manual pump, gravity return drain, automatic powered pump system or vacuum assisted evacuation via the submersible pump in the storage tank/s. 1). Locate vapor pot/sump so as to provide sufficient fall for vapor line to achieve gravity flow back to selected storage tank. It must be close enough so that a 1/8 to 1/4 inch pipe fall will terminate at the desired location relative to the tank. 2). Vapor pot/sump must have sufficient bury to protect against traffic loads from above. Recommended backfill material is rounded pea gravel 1/8” to 3/4” in diameter. Crushed stone, 1/8” to 3/4”, and or river sand may be used if washed and it is free flowing. A 6” base of back fill material should be placed below the vapor pot/sumps before placement. 3). If installed under reinforced concrete surfaces of a 4” (100mm) thickness, a minimum cover of 6” of back fill is required. Asphalt, 2” (50mm) minimum thickness, requires 8” minimum cover of back fill. Unpaved surfaces require a minimum of 14” (350mm) cover of recommended back fill material. 4). Dry fit piping manifold and return line if used. A 8” to 12” access manhole is recommended above manifold to allow inspection and/or cleaning (see details). 5). Secure and test piping system. Vapor pots/sumps may be pressure tested to maintain 5psi. Use care when pressurizing vapor pot/sump as the volume is small and will quickly reach pressure limits. 6). Back fill as required.



Vapor/Vent Containment Sump INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please read this manual completely prior to installation. These instructions do not supersede local laws and regulations. Always comply with local requirements. 1). Inspect Containment Box upon receipt for any shipment damage. 2). Locate and install piping, conduit and service penetration fittings as needed. Follow penetration manufacturer’s instructions as required. 3). Set box to grade, level and ensure that all anchor tabs, frame locks and the perimeter frame are in the correct position(s) to be covered with concrete during pour as required. Use ¼” to ½” clean “pea gravel” under and around box. Compress backfill below and around Vent Box for proper support. 4). Install piping, maintaining proper fall/entry angles. Test piping and penetrations as instructed by local and regional regulations and manufacturers instructions. 5). After concrete has cured, install rack and stand pipe assemblies. Slip bottom section of rack(s) into receivers of the perimeter framework and secure using ½” bolts. Repeat procedure for the top sections installing into lower sections. 6). Secure vent risers/stand pipes to rack assembly. Tighten stand pipe entry compression fittings at top of containment box, one per riser pipe. Use care not to over tighten. See manufacturer’s instructions. Replace containment box lid. Use care not to damage gasket and that there are no foreign objects or dirt/sand between lid and gasket material. Tighten/torque lid bolts to approximately 10-12 foot pounds.



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