WEEK 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions (Part 1) · 2017. 2. 20. · Light colours, clear (bright)...
Transcript of WEEK 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions (Part 1) · 2017. 2. 20. · Light colours, clear (bright)...
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WEEK 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions (Part 1) You should now have started becoming familiar with the silhouettes, lengths and other style
elements that work for your proportions. And started assessing items currently in your
wardrobe.
This week you’re going to continue assessing individual clothing and accessories in your
wardrobe and you’re also going to start putting outfits together.
It’s time to master a few simple principles borrowed from art and use them to combine your
clothes and accessories into flattering outfits.
Hide, Harmonize, Highlight By understanding some simple principles you’ll be able to work out if something suits you
even if you don’t have access to your MPS and can’t remember a particular
recommendation.
Your MPS style recommendations include ALL the style elements that help
you create flattering proportions.
However, by understanding the underlying principles in this lesson you’ll
find it easier to understand your recommendations and create flattering
outfits.
These principles should also help you understand how to disregard an
‘avoid’ style recommendation (if you want to), yet still create a flattering
outfit!
If you remember nothing else remember to review your outfits using these hide, harmonize
and highlight principles.
This week we’ll explore hiding and highlighting. Next week we’ll look at harmonizing.
HIDE: Create balance in your outfits Even if your proportions aren’t the so called ideal proportions you can create flattering lines
in your outfits by understanding how to create the illusion of perfect proportions. It’s all
about balancing your shape to the ‘ideal proportions’ of a moderately tall, average weight,
hourglass, balanced body.
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Balancing Horizontal Shapes to the Ideal Shapes
Read this article to get an overview of how to balance your proportions to the ‘ideal
proportions’.
As you put an outfit together take notice of the elements below to make sure every outfit
you create balances your proportions.
To get a more objective view of an outfit take a full length photo of you in
the complete outfit. A selfie will do, or get a friend or shop assistant to
take it.
(Remember to include shoes, accessories and any outer layers, that is,
consider your whole outfit.)
Design lines Design lines in outfits are found in:
Garment silhouettes
Accessories
Hems – especially when there’s a change of colour eg between a light top and dark
pants, between a skirt hem and your legs
Internal design lines such as seams, zips, pockets, etc
Patterns and textures
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This is how lines are perceived:
Horizontal lines – since these make us feel steady (as in horizons) we notice them first.
However, horizontals add width so it’s also important to balance them with verticals
(unless you’re tall and want to look shorter).
Hems are often horizontal lines (sleeves, tops, jackets, skirts, pants, cuffs).
Colour changes, both between garments and within garments, can also
create horizontal lines. The higher the contrast between colour changes
the more obvious it will be.
Use horizontal lines where you want to add width, on narrow areas
you want to broaden. For example, to add visual width to narrow
shoulders (see blouse picture to right).
Also look out for virtual horizontal lines! Our brain fills in lines so we
see two short horizontal lines as one long one. For example: pocket to
pocket (especially when the pockets are straight, rather than angled); cuff to cuff; sleeve
hem to sleeve hem; two angles of the front opening of a jacket (especially
when the angle of the opening is narrow).
EXAMPLE of the effects of different hemline openings:
Horizontal Lines Adding Width to Shoulders
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Effects of Different Jacket Hemlines
In the jacket hemlines above notice how you see the bottom hems of the first and third
jackets as a horizontal line. With the second and third jackets we’ll most likely see the
hem line opening (especially if there’s a contrasting top underneath), however the top
of the triangle-like opening will also act as a focal point (‘look at me’), so make sure you
want to bring attention to that area of your body.
Recommended reading: Horizontal Fashion article on the MPS blog.
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Question: When is a horizontal stripe not a horizontal stripe?
Answer: When the stripes are thin and close together our brain interprets
them as vertical stripes, so they have a lengthening rather than a
shortening effect!
Vertical lines – are found in: jackets and cardigans left open; longer-line necklaces and
scarves; pants; seams; centre creases in pants and sleeves; button plackets; long pleats;
patterns (such as vertical stripes, but other patterns may create the illusion of stripes
too).
Use them where you want to appear longer and slimmer. For example, to make your
top seem narrower add a longer-line scarf or necklace (but make sure the scarf of
necklace ends at a point you want to bring attention to).
Vertical lines are seen as strong and masculine (reminiscent of tree trunks).
Optional reading: How to Dress Slim and A Striped Affair articles on the MPS blog.
Diagonal lines – can be found in:
V-necks; shirts; wrap tops and dresses; asymmetrical design lines; patterns and
textures (such as Aztec-inspired designs and herringbone).
In structural components such as triangle and inverted triangle silhouettes,
panels, seams, collars, ruching.
In garment detailing or embellishments: pockets, pleats.
In accessories: toes of shoes, scarves, pendants.
They are seen as active and interesting,.
Use them to move the eye around the body and to a focal point. Diagonal lines that are
closer to horizontal add width, those closer to vertical are slimming.
Recommended reading: Line and Design article on the MPS blog.
Curved lines – are found in: structural components such as curved hems, scooped
necklines, and gathering; jewellery such as round pendants and earring hoops; patterns
such as polka dots, spots, paisley, fluid flowing patterns, florals.
Curved lines are seen as feminine, gentle, soft and relaxed.
Use them where you want to add curves (add pounds) and volume.
Recommended reading: The Curved Line article on the MPS blog.
Using colour and fabric type Receiving a personalized colour analysis is beyond the scope of this program. However, I
want to introduce you to two effects of colour in our clothing on:
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1. Apparent size
2. Balancing proportions
Apparent size
A colour’s value (how light or dark it is) and a colour’s intensity (how clear/shiny or
muted/matt) affect the perceived size of the area it is over.
Dark colours, muted colours and matt fabric surfaces all make the area they’re worn
over appear smaller. Dark colours include black. However, black is not the only
Medium colours make the area they’re worn over appear neither larger or smaller. A
fabric with a slight sheen will not overly affect the perceived size of the area it’s
over.
Light colours, clear (bright) colours and shiny fabric surfaces all make the area
they’re worn over appear larger. As do thick, bulky and textured fabrics. Light
colours include white, but other light colours also have the same advancing affect.
Balancing proportions
There are 4 basic outfit strategies that use colour to balance (or unbalance) our
proportions:
Column of colour – this will make you look taller and slimmer, especially when it’s in medium-dark to dark colours, and fabrics with matt finishes
NOTE: the garment colours don’t need to be an exact match, combining
tones of a colour is a very contemporary look. One or more of the
garments may also be patterned in a low contrast pattern that makes it
appear as if it’s part of the column. And combining different textures can
add interest.
Examples of columns of colour
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Flowing colour up the inside of your body – For example, medium coloured skirt and
top and lighter coloured jacket. This will disguise a slightly too large tummy. However, if
the outer layer is lighter than a medium colour-value it will also make a large bust, large
midriff, and broad shoulders look larger.
Examples of flowing colour up the inside of the body (high, medium and lower contrasts)
Flowing colour up the outside of your body – For example, dark pants and jacket and
lighter top. This strategy makes you look slimmer and taller. If you need to hide your
stomach, make sure the lighter colour is not too light.
Examples of flowing colour up the outside of the body (high, medium and lower contrasts)
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Colour blocking:
Wearing lighter colours on your top half and darker colours on your bottom
half will make you appear taller and also appear to balance narrower shoulders
to your hip width
Wearing lighter colours on your bottom half and darker colours on your top
half will make you appear shorter and balance the wider shoulders of an inverted
triangle shape to narrower hips
Examples of colour blocking (medium-dark bottoms + bright top, light bottoms + medium top, vertical colour blocking)
HIGHLIGHT: Use focal points Above we looked at the magic of using design lines and colour to balance proportions and
hide body areas we’d prefer to minize. However, a magician’s key tool is distraction – if we
can see the illusion happening it isn’t so magical!
Draw attention to your best features by creating focal points in those areas.
What is a focal point? A focal point is anything we notice first about you. For example, these things create focal
points:
Light or bright colours
Fabrics with shiny surfaces
Horizontal lines within an outfit – we see these before vertical lines
Colour changes within an outfit – these also create design lines
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Embellishments such as embroidery or studs on clothing
Jewellery especially a necklace with some ‘visual weight’, or noisy jewellery, or shiny
jewellery
A scarf
For example, if you like your hands, wear nail varnish,
statement rings, and/or bracelets.
However, it’s also always a good idea to bring
attention to your face, since it helps people to
take notice of what you’re saying!
Accessorising Adding an accessory or two is a great way to create a focal point and add visual interest. A
well placed accessory can also be used to create a strong vertical, lengthening and slimming
effect.
When I first see many of my clients I find accessorising is something they’re not doing. Most
often this is because they don’t know how to accessorise and so haven’t thought to buy
accessories, or perhaps they have bought them, but forget to wear them.
I really do encourage you to learn how to use accessories (don’t be afraid to experiment)
and remember to use them to add that finishing touch to your outfits.
Optional reading: two articles by my first teacher and the creator of the MPS program:
Accessorizing Part 1 and Accessorizing Part 2.
For a comprehensive accessorising ebook I recommend buying The Finishing Touch by
Imogen Lamport (disclosure: I will make a small commission if you purchase through this
link).
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EXAMPLE of using the above information
This is still a favourite winter outfit even after three or more years!
The colour flow in this outfit is somewhere between colour blocking and a column of colour. Since the contrast between my top and bottom is reasonably low it pretty much forms a column of colour. This illusion is helped with the background of the snake pants having a similar background (soft white/cream) to the top colours
The light colour of the polar neck sweater forms a focal point
The layered necklaces form a focal point (pointing to my stomach/waist, which I wouldn’t normally do, but the strong verticals in this outfit formed by the open vest and the colour flow mean I can get away with it)
The shaggy, bulky texture of the vest (gilet) adds width to my torso, but that’s offset by the strong verticals of the vest opening and the long necklaces and makes me look a little more curvy
The pants are a little short, but the ankle boots sort of disguise that and the column effect also counters the effect
HOMEWORK 1: Assess an outfit
Step 1: Put on an outfit you wear all the time
Step 2: Take a photo Either take a selfie of yourself in your outfit, or ask a friend to take it.
Step 3: Review your outfit Using the information above:
Use your MPS to review the individual components of your outfit. Do they meet your
style recommendations? If not, does how you’ve combined and styled the outfit
counteract the negative aspects?
Identify the types of lines in your outfit (remember to look at the silhouette, and
hem lines, as well and lines within your garments)
What outfit strategy are you using?
Notice the fabric textures
Etc
Step 4: Identify any changes Is the outfit flattering? Does it create the right balance for your horizontal and vertical
shapes and minimise any figure challenges? If not can you identify any ways to change it?
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For example, could you change a hemline? Or tuck in a top? Or add an accessory to create a
focal point? Or add an outer layer such as a vest, jacket or cardigan to create vertical lines,
or to create a flattering colour flow up your body?
Step 5: Post photos Post your photos in our Facebook group along with comments about your assessment. Also
note whether you actually love (or at least like) the outfit.
REPEAT the above for at least one or two more outfits. If you have an outfit you put on, but
never actually walk out of the house wearing make sure you include that in this exercise.
HOMEWORK 2: Create new outfits Now it’s time to get a bit more creative and to practise creating outfits using some of the
above arts of illusion!
Step 1: Identify the area(s) of your body that you need to balance For example:
Narrow hips to wide shoulders, wide shoulders to wide hips, short legs to the rest of
your body, long legs to the rest of your body
Flow through the waist
etc
Step 2: Choose an appropriate basic outfit strategy for your proportions Select from 1 of the 4 ways of using colour above and create an outfit using items in your
wardrobe.
Step 3: Shop your wardrobe Try combining tops and bottoms, dresses and outer layers etc that you haven’t put together
before.
Step 4: Add a focal point Add one or two focal points. For example: using a necklace or scarf; a colour or a texture
Step 5: Note any missing items If you find you’re missing the ingredients you need to create the outfit you have in mind,
start a shopping wish list and make a note of the items you’re missing.
Step 6: Post photos Post at least one photo of you in one of your new outfits in our Facebook Group. Let us
know how you like the outfits you post and any discoveries you’ve made as you’ve done the
homework this week.