Wednesday 7
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WEDNESDAY, 3 APRIL 2013 Cloth of the month–an exceptional Bondoukou man’s cloth. fr473 - One of a very small number of museum quality Bondoukou men's cloths, this subtle and beautiful piece uses complex blocks of coloured weft threads muted by the predominant indigo warp as the sole decorative effect. Although this is a very old decorative technique found in some of the earliest Ghanaian textiles the sophisticated effect achieved here by varying the colours and the placement of blocks is to my knowledge unique. One strip is missing from each edge (they were likely removed because they were excessively frayed) but the cloth is otherwise in very good condition with no patches, holes, or stains. Dates from C19th or early C20th. Measurements: 118ins x 71ins, 300cm x 180cm. PRICE: Email for price.
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There is such thing as a Nigerian fashion scene and it is for real.
Transcript of Wednesday 7
W E D N E S D A Y , 3 A P R I L 2 0 1 3
Cloth of the month–an exceptional Bondoukou man’s cloth.
fr473 - One of a very small number of museum quality Bondoukou men's cloths, this
subtle and beautiful piece uses complex blocks of coloured weft threads muted by the
predominant indigo warp as the sole decorative effect. Although this is a very old
decorative technique found in some of the earliest Ghanaian textiles the sophisticated
effect achieved here by varying the colours and the placement of blocks is to my
knowledge unique. One strip is missing from each edge (they were likely removed
because they were excessively frayed) but the cloth is otherwise in very good condition
with no patches, holes, or stains. Dates from C19th or early C20th. Measurements:
118ins x 71ins, 300cm x 180cm. PRICE: Email for price.
Bondoukou is in the north east of Ivory Coast, not far from the border with Ghana.
Culturally and historically it shares many features with the nearby Brong-Ahafo region
of Ghana, such as small Akan kingdoms and chieftaincies ruling primarily farming
peoples and significant communities of Muslim traders of Malian ancestry. The textiles of
this region, as I discussed in my article in Hali magazine a few years ago, now on my
website here, share features with both Asante and Ewe cloths from Ghana and with
Ivoirian cloths of the Guro and Baule.
Two cloths from the collection of the Museum de Kulturen, Basel, published in the
important exhibition catalogue Woven Beauty: The Art of West African Textiles edited by
Berhard Gardi (Basel, 2009) illustrate the early use of the same technique.
This cloth, collected in 1840, is the oldest documented kente in the world. Here red,
yellow, and blue weft stripes are muted by the white warp. The author notes that it may
be attributed to either an Asante or an Ewe weaver – although I would suggest the red
edge strip is strongly indicative of an Ewe origin.
This second piece, collected in 1886, is attributed by the author to the Asante on the
rather weak grounds that the collection location is nearer Asante than it is to the Ewe. It
is closer to our cloth in that indigo and white stripes are used in the warp although the
variety of weft colours is still much less, and the pattern layout much less sophisticated.
Click on the photos to enlarge. More Bondoukou cloths on our website here.
POSTED BY DUNCAN CL ARKE AT 03 :38 NO COMMENTS:
L ABELS: ABRON, AKAN, ASANTE , BASEL , BAULE , BERNHARD GARDI ,BONDOUKOU, COTE
D ' IVOIRE , D IOUL A, DYUL A , EWE, EWE KENTE , GHANA,GOURO, IVORY COAST , KENTE , KENTE
CLOTH, WOVEN BEAUTY
T U E S D A Y , 2 A P R I L 2 0 1 3
New pages on Pinterest
We now have pages on Pinterest. Boards will focus on African textiles (a selection
including some of my favourites), African Indigo, and African Dress Traditions. Click on
the image above to visit.
POSTED BY DUNCAN CL ARKE AT 04 :59 NO COMMENTS:
M O N D A Y , 1 A P R I L 2 0 1 3
Akwete Cloths in the British MuseumThe Beving Collection in the British Museum is without doubt the most important
collection of nineteenth century and early C20th African textiles. Among its highlights is
a remarkable group of cloths from the town of Akwete in south eastern Nigeria. Akwete
is on the southern fringes of the Igbo speaking area of Nigeria and its women wove
cloths that were traded throughout the Niger delta, both as formal dress and for use on
various ceremonial occasions. The Akwete loom is the widest variant of the upright
single heddle loom with a continuous circular warp that was used in many parts of
Nigeria. The cloths woven were up to 120 cm in width allowing them to be worn as a
single panel rather than the two joined panels that were more typical of Nigerian
women’s weaving.
Postcard, CMS Bookshop, Lagos, 1960s. Author’s collection.
Photo source: Vintage Nigeria. The loom has been moved outside to be photographed.
Photo source: Vintage Nigeria. Circa 1960s. Two cloths were worn overlapping each other.
The Beving Collection“There were two generations of Charles Beving.
Charles Beving senior was a West Africa trader born in Baden (he was Christened Karl),
born in 1858. He worked from Manchester in the cotton business, first as a trader,
trading in Africa for all but a few months every two years. He became partner in a cotton
printing company Blakeley & Beving, and later owned his own company Beving & Co,
apparently at a late stage in his career. He is listed in the 1891 Manchester census as
'Africa Merchant' and in 1901 as 'merchant and calico printer'. He died in 1913. He
formed for his company a large collection of items, largely textiles, from West Africa and
Indonesia, as specimens on which his firm might model its productions for the African
market.
This collection was donated to the Museum in 1934 by his eldest son, Charles Adolphus
Beving, on behalf of Messrs Beving & Co of Manchester, with the request that it be
known as the 'Charles Beving collection' in his father's memory (see letter on file).
Braunholtz states that the collection was formed by Beving senior, and there is no reason
to think that the son ever made additions to the collection. All items in it therefore have
a secure dating before 1913, which makes this one of the earliest documented
collections of African textiles.”
From the British Museum site. All cloths below are part of the Beving Collection and can
be assumed to date from before 1913. All are woven from imported cotton thread.
Images © Trustees of the British Museum. For further information on any cloth the file
name gives the museum reference number and may be looked up in the “Research the
Collections” section of the museum site.
For more information on Akwete weaving see:
Lisa Aronson - "Akwete Weaving: Tradition and Change" in Engelbrecht, B. & Gardi, B.
eds. Man Does Not Go Naked (Basel, 1989)
Lisa Aronson - "We weave it:" Akwete Weavers, their patrons, and Innovation in a Global
Economy. in Tornatore, S. ed. Cloth is the Center of the World: Nigerian Textiles, Global
Perspectives. (2001)
Venice Lamb & Judy Holmes – Nigerian Weaving (Shell, 1980)
POSTED BY DUNCAN CL ARKE AT 02 :46 NO COMMENTS:
L ABELS: AKWETE , BEVING, BR IT ISH MUSEUM, IGBO, L ISA ARONSON,NIGERIA , WOMAN'S
WEAVING
S U N D A Y , 2 4 M A R C H 2 0 1 3
“Majestic African Textiles”–exhibition at Indianapolis Museum of Art
“Majestic African Textiles features more than 60 pieces showcasing the woven arts from
the diverse cultures of Morocco, Nigeria, Ghana, among other regions .
INDIANAPOLIS, IN, March 6, 2013— The Indianapolis Museum of Art today announced
it will present Majestic African Textiles, an exhibition featuring a spectacular array of
prestige garments,
performance and ritual cloths and superbly beaded and embellished objects. The works
are drawn from the IMA’s extensive collection of textiles—one of the most distinguished
in the country. The exhibition will be on view from May 3, 2013, to March, 2, 2014.
“The IMA has been collecting African textiles since 1918. Majestic African Textiles will
highlight a significant and diverse group of richly patterned and elaborately decorated
north and subSaharan African textiles,” said Niloo Paydar, curator of textile and fashion
arts. “These textiles are considered significant symbols of status, power and wealth.”
“The IMA’s long history of collecting African works of art has resulted in one of the finest
and most
comprehensive collections in the United States,” said Dr. Charles L. Venable, The Melvin
& Bren Simon Director and CEO of the IMA. “We are excited to present these stunning
textiles that will
illuminate the many cultures of Africa through the weavers’ art.”
Featuring more than 60 pieces, Majestic African Textiles will celebrate the prestige and
significance of these prized cloths in their respective cultures. This exhibition offers a
superb
presentation of the woven arts of the diverse African textile producing cultures of
Morocco, Tunisia, Nigeria, Ghana, Mali, Sierra Leone, Democratic Republic of Congo,
Cameroon, Ivory
Coast, Ethiopia and South Africa. Representing many African ethnic groups and
organized geographically, the exhibition will
include the following highlights:
• An elaborately tailored and embroidered Nigerian man’s drawstring trousers with wide
waist
bands that serve as a prestige garment among the Hausa, Nupe and other northern
Nigerian
men.
• An exquisitely beaded royal Nigerian ceremonial tunic made of panels of imported
velvet and wool. The beaded patterns are executed in a variety of designs including
medals, crowns, faux epaulettes, flowers and faces of Yoruba royal ancestors.
• Several examples of the colorful strip-woven cloths of the Asante and Ewe peoples of
Ghana, popularly known as kente.
• A recently acquired, rare warrior’s tunic from Ghana laden with a number of amulets
that contained protective powers. Hunters, warriors and soldiers who often had
dangerous professions wore garments that were either painted with protective verses or
adorned with objects that were believed to have magical powers.
Organized by the IMA, Majestic African Textiles will be on view in the museum’s Gerald
and Dorit Paul Galleries. “
POSTED BY DUNCAN CL ARKE AT 03 :30 NO COMMENTS:
L ABELS: EXHIB IT ION , INDIANAPOLIS MUSEUM OF ART
Symmetry/Asymmetry: African Textiles, Dress, and Adornment–exhibition at High Museum of Art, Atlanta
Shoowa Artists (Kasai Province)
Democratic Republic of the Congo
Man's Prestige Cloth, first half of 20th century
Raffia palm fiber
26 x 14 inches (66 x 35 cm)
Collection of Michael Mack
Symmetry/Asymmetry: African Textiles, Dress, and Adornment
March 23-August 25, 2013
“Symmetry/Asymmetry draws attention to African textiles as abstract works of art to
highlight their aesthetic dimension. At the same time the exhibition suggests a
synaesthetic experience as these once kinetic works engaged multiple senses.
Over 40 works of African textiles, dress, and adornment – to include objects from
throughout the continent and from South Africa to the Sahara – are presented. A broad
spectrum of art spanning more than 7,000 years of artistic innovation, from a Neolithic
stone bracelet to twentieth and twenty-first century commemorative cloths emblazoned
with the faces of Kwame Nkrumah, Nelson Mandela, and President Obama, are included.
A magnificent selection of indigo cloths from West Africa and Kuba textiles from Central
Africa are also presented. The exhibition provides a surprisingly diverse range of
symmetric and asymmetric designs.
Organization & Support
The exhibition is generously funded by the Fred and Rita Richman Special Initiative
Endowment Fund for African Art.”
POSTED BY DUNCAN CL ARKE AT 03 :22 2 COMMENTS:
L ABELS: EXHIB IT ION , H IGH MUSEUM OF ART
F R I D A Y , 2 2 M A R C H 2 0 1 3
Fante Asafo Flag details
To view the complete flags please visit the newly updated gallery on our website here.
POSTED BY DUNCAN CL ARKE AT 03 :48 NO COMMENTS:
L ABELS: ASAFO, FANTE , FANT I , FL AGS, FRANKA A , GHANA
F R I D A Y , 8 M A R C H 2 0 1 3
Symmetry/Asymmetry: African Textiles, Dress, and Adornment–new exhibition at the High Museum of Art, AtlantaOpens March 23.
More details when I get them.
POSTED BY DUNCAN CL ARKE AT 23 :55 NO COMMENTS:
L ABELS: H IGH MUSEUM OF ART
