Webside 7 1

Contents

News and Notes 1 Recent Additions to the Website 1 Planned Additions to the Website 1 Staying Up To Date with Acrobat Reader 2 On the Road 2 Contributions from Karen Searle 2 Exploring the Website Part 6 Patents 3 National Archives 4 Lace Corner Part 6 5 Quotations 7 New from Handweavingnet 7 CD List 11 Web Links 12

WebsideNumber 7 May 2005

Ralph E Griswold

httpwwwcsarizonaedupatternsweaving

Recent Additions to the Website

2005-05html

Highlights

bull For those interested in handweaving moreearly issues of the Shuttle-Craft Bulletin andthe first six issues of the Weaverrsquos Journal

bull For lace enthusiasts several articles from theMetropolitan Museum Bulletin

bull For those interested in spinning Schlomannrsquosmultilingual dictionary of spinning

bull For Posselt fans (are there any) volumes fourand five of his textile journal as well asextracted articles

bull For those interested in the oldest literatureappendices on dyeing filet the oldest knownknitting pattern and finger-loop braidingfrom Philiatrosrsquo Natura Extenerata or NatureUnbowelled 1655

Acknowledgments

bull Karen Jania and the Bentley Historical Li-brary of the University of Michigan

bull Karen Searle

bull Aurelia Loveman

Planned Additions to the Website

bull Volumes 6 and 7 of Posseltrsquos Textile Journal

bull More issues of the Weaverrsquos Journal

bull Ephemera

News and Notes

Graphics

The masthead graphic is a crackle-weavethreading

The color ldquodrawdownldquo on page 7 will beexplained in the next issue of Webside

English Translations

Thanks to Tess Parrish and subscribers to theArachne listserv there are now English transla-tions for titles in other languages Ones will beprovided for new titles as they occur

There is one exception a Thai monographwith the romanized title Rursquoang tham rai fai Weknow the subject cotton growing Can you help

2 Webside 7

Staying Up to Date with AcrobatReader

Most of the material on the website is in PDFform and requires Acrobat Reader copy This is a freeprogram and easy to get 1

Adobe continues to improve PDF which iscurrently at Version 7

Although the PDFs presently on the websitecan be read by Version 4 of the reader new docu-ments will be added that require a higher versionAlthough it is still possible to create PDFs forVersion 4 they are larger than ones created bysubsequent versions Larger files mean longerdownload times So using the latest version worksto your advantage

If yoursquore using an older version of Readeryou may or may not be able to read new PDFsGenerally you will get a message indicating aproblem Save yourself trouble and upgrade toVersion 7 now

On the Road

Recently my wife was invited to attend asymposium at the University of Michigan in AnnArbor and I tagged along

When I travel my first interest usually is inused bookstores and antique shops where I hopeto find material to add to my personal library Thatwas true on this trip but since the University ofMichigan has one of the major academic librarysystems in this country I checked out its holdingson the Web in advance

There was nothing of interest in its holdingsin weaving except for a curious item in the BentleyHistorical Library A box that is listed as contain-ing a folder of weaving patterns from CromaineCrafts of Hartland Michigan

Exchanges with a librarian at the BentleyLibrary revealed that the folder probably con-tained issues of a weaving newsletter

Although the Bentley Library does not allowscanning it does allow digital photography So Ipacked a digital camera a portable copy standand various paraphernalia for digital photogra-phy

The folder contained more or less what Iexpected issues of the newsletter Shuttle Servicepublished Cromaine Crafts from the late 1930s

I set about scanning these and soon discov-ered that various clippings brochures and pam-phlets were scattered throughout

I photographed everything mdash about 150 pagesmdash in less than two hours

Now I have to sort it out and edit the images(this is a significant task especially when the cir-cumstances do not allow the use of the best equip-ment)

Irsquom not yet sure what it all will amount toCertainly some issues of Shuttle Service (a few ofwhich are already on the website) some ephemeraand some brochures

My first impression of Shuttle Service is that itis like a lot of other low-budget weaving newslet-ters with some things done crudely but a gem ortwo here and there And of course a taste of handweaving at a particular time and place

And I was left wondering how many othersimilar newsletters there are that I donrsquot knowabout

And yes I did find a few things of interest inthe local bookstores Those that are in the publicdomain will show up on the website in time

mdash reg

Contributions from Karen Searle

Karen Searle has given permission to placeseveral of her documents the website These in-clude the first four years of Weaverrsquos Journal andtwo Dos Tejedoras monographs

She also is providing some old guild newslet-ters and issues of a weaving newsletter by MrsZielinski

It will take some time to get all of this on thewebsite but the result will be a marvelous contri-bution and resource for the weaving community

This kind of generous and enlightened contri-bution has potential for considerably expandingthe scope of the website I hope that other authorswho have material relevant to the website that isstill under copyright but no longer has commercialpotential will follow the example of PeterCollingwood and Karen Searle

These two have been the major contributorsso far but we are starting to get others For ex-ample this month we have eight lace articles byAurelia Loveman Every new document contrib-utes to publicly available knowledge

Webside 7 3

Exploring the Website Part 6Patents

Patents are a relatively late addition to thewebsite the first appearing in 2002

I personally find patents fascinating but Iwasnrsquot sure how much interest there would be forthem on the website I shouldnrsquot have worried Asof the first of this year the average number ofdownloads per patent was 5892 while the averagenumber of downloads per article was only 3844

There are patents on an amazing number ofsubjects For the website the most relevant subjectsare those that relate to machinery

Patents are in the public domain In fact theconcept of patenting is to trade disclosure for aperiod of exclusive use usually 17 years for olderpatents in the United States

There presently are 382 patents on the web-site Most are US patents but there are a few forEuropa (European Union) France Great Britainand Japan

The page for patents contains links to pagesby topic The topical classification ldquojust grewrdquo andit should be rethought or at least reordered Atpresent the topics are

Looms general and miscellaneousLooms circularLooms carpet and rugLooms narrow fabricLooms pileLoom mechanismsJacquard apparatusLeno mechanismsCotton equipmentSilk equipmentKnitting equipmentWool equipmentMulti-axial weaving mechanismsFiber processing mechanismsCotton ginsHosiery equipmentLace and related topicsBraiding mechanismsEmbroideryFabricsBuildingsSpinningDyeingFibers

A screen snap of a portion of the page forpatents is shown below

Next Time Ephemera

4 Webside 7

National Archives

Many countries have national archives thathouse the most important records of the nation Inthe United States the organization is called USNational Archives and Records Administrationwith the acronym NARA See the screen snap oftheir home page at the bottom of this page

There are millions of items in the archive andmany of them are available online 2

This might not be a place yoursquod think to go toif you were interested in say weaving But everynation has its history and for the United StatesAmerican Indians have played a large role

For this reason alone you might expect to finditems of interest about weaving See the screensnap on the next page

There are of course many other items thatmay be of interest to weavers and lacemakers Oneof particular interest to me is Eli Whitneyrsquos patentfor the original cotton gin shown opposite

Webside 7 5

Lace Corner Part 6

Needlemade lace of the 17th and 18th centu-ries is renowned for being thefinest and best lace ever madeHowever it only reflected thetaste of the times This is anexample of late 19th centurylace made to copy the work ofa century earlier

What about needlemadelace today It is interesting to see that once againlace is responding to contemporary interests Hav-ing always been linked to the fashion industrywhere does handmade lace belong in todayrsquos in-formal and casual costume It has certainly changeddirection going from trim on underwear to a validform of artistic expression and from a commercial

product to a leisure activityNeedle lace is not as popular as bobbin lace

taking more time and skill to produce Howevermany embroiderers have come to lacemaking to-day via the path of detached buttonhole stitch Forindeed that is the basis of needlemade lace Mostpeople know what the humble buttonhole stitchlooks like and how to make it

It is when it is var-ied in execution mate-rial and color that it be-comes something veryexciting And this iswhat the contemporaryneedle artist is doing to-day

A first experimentis shown below The

outline is a simple length of copper wire and it is

6 Webside 7

filled in with variations on de-tached buttonhole stitch

In this next design the foun-dation line was stitched onto apiece of fabric and a series ofhanging shapes

was attached either to the back-ground fabric or from one of theother shapes

And last a lace design froma modern lace school in Idria wasattempted using the traditionalway of setting up and working adesign A working pad made of layers was used asthe backing and the outline of the simple designwas couched down in a heavy thread The open

areas were then filled in with varia-tions of detached buttonhole stitchattaching them to the couched out-line during the work And last theoutline was covered with the samestitch Carefully cutting through the

couching threads allowed the finished shape to beremoved from the working pad

It only takes imaginationand perhaps a sense of play to letthe colors and threads enhancethe original design idea Here isan example of contemporaryneedlemade lace designed andworked by Jean Goldberg asshown on her websitehttpwwwusers bigpondcomjeangoldbergrunninglhtm 3

There is such a wealth of material in the Lacesection of this website that it takes a long time tolocate what one might want to find Going to the

For further explanations of how to work needlemade lace and to see what others have done thefollowing web sites may be of interest

httpwwwkuusankoskifiHandiscolamallehtmlhttplacelacefairycomIDNeedlelaceIDhtmlhttpwwwrefalocombobbinlaceneedlelacehtmlhttpwwwloreleihalleycomneedlelacehtmhttpwwwgeocitiescommonstonitrusa_and_sneedlelaceneedlelacehtml

Search option and putting in needle lace doesnrsquotreally help as Search will list titles but withoutexplaining contents So the best bet is simply toexplore the contents of the Lace section and try notto veer too far from the chosen path

In trying to find books and articles on thetechnique of needlemade lace one comes up withthe following

DeDillmont Th Needle-Made Laces 1st SeriesDMC 1900 105 pages Frauberger TinaSpitzenkunde [Lace] Seemann 1984 278 pages RicciCleofe Mingarelli Disegni di Trafori 1909 51 pages

Please do not be put off by the fact that two ofthese are not in English the pictures and diagramsare quite sufficient to a complete understanding ofthe process

As has been mentioned before the majority ofearly fine lace was needle made so many of thebooks in the Lace section show pictures of thiswork but the three listed here are specificallybooks on technique

mdash Tess Parrish

Quotations

Small people behind big desks are the same every-where consider them poor of spirit and look elsewhere

mdashAnonymous

There is no excellent beauty that hath not somestrangeness in the proportion

mdash Francis Bacon

Mathematics is a lesser activity than religion in thesense that weve agreed not to kill each other but todiscuss things

mdash Richard Preston

Webside 7 3

Exploring the Website Part 6Patents

Patents are a relatively late addition to thewebsite the first appearing in 2002

I personally find patents fascinating but Iwasnrsquot sure how much interest there would be forthem on the website I shouldnrsquot have worried Asof the first of this year the average number ofdownloads per patent was 5892 while the averagenumber of downloads per article was only 3844

There are patents on an amazing number ofsubjects For the website the most relevant subjectsare those that relate to machinery

Patents are in the public domain In fact theconcept of patenting is to trade disclosure for aperiod of exclusive use usually 17 years for olderpatents in the United States

There presently are 382 patents on the web-site Most are US patents but there are a few forEuropa (European Union) France Great Britainand Japan

The page for patents contains links to pagesby topic The topical classification ldquojust grewrdquo andit should be rethought or at least reordered Atpresent the topics are

Looms general and miscellaneousLooms circularLooms carpet and rugLooms narrow fabricLooms pileLoom mechanismsJacquard apparatusLeno mechanismsCotton equipmentSilk equipmentKnitting equipmentWool equipmentMulti-axial weaving mechanismsFiber processing mechanismsCotton ginsHosiery equipmentLace and related topicsBraiding mechanismsEmbroideryFabricsBuildingsSpinningDyeingFibers

A screen snap of a portion of the page forpatents is shown below

Next Time Ephemera

4 Webside 7

National Archives

Many countries have national archives thathouse the most important records of the nation Inthe United States the organization is called USNational Archives and Records Administrationwith the acronym NARA See the screen snap oftheir home page at the bottom of this page

There are millions of items in the archive andmany of them are available online 2

This might not be a place yoursquod think to go toif you were interested in say weaving But everynation has its history and for the United StatesAmerican Indians have played a large role

For this reason alone you might expect to finditems of interest about weaving See the screensnap on the next page

There are of course many other items thatmay be of interest to weavers and lacemakers Oneof particular interest to me is Eli Whitneyrsquos patentfor the original cotton gin shown opposite

Webside 7 5

Lace Corner Part 6

Needlemade lace of the 17th and 18th centu-ries is renowned for being thefinest and best lace ever madeHowever it only reflected thetaste of the times This is anexample of late 19th centurylace made to copy the work ofa century earlier

What about needlemadelace today It is interesting to see that once againlace is responding to contemporary interests Hav-ing always been linked to the fashion industrywhere does handmade lace belong in todayrsquos in-formal and casual costume It has certainly changeddirection going from trim on underwear to a validform of artistic expression and from a commercial

product to a leisure activityNeedle lace is not as popular as bobbin lace

taking more time and skill to produce Howevermany embroiderers have come to lacemaking to-day via the path of detached buttonhole stitch Forindeed that is the basis of needlemade lace Mostpeople know what the humble buttonhole stitchlooks like and how to make it

It is when it is var-ied in execution mate-rial and color that it be-comes something veryexciting And this iswhat the contemporaryneedle artist is doing to-day

A first experimentis shown below The

outline is a simple length of copper wire and it is

6 Webside 7

filled in with variations on de-tached buttonhole stitch

In this next design the foun-dation line was stitched onto apiece of fabric and a series ofhanging shapes

was attached either to the back-ground fabric or from one of theother shapes

And last a lace design froma modern lace school in Idria wasattempted using the traditionalway of setting up and working adesign A working pad made of layers was used asthe backing and the outline of the simple designwas couched down in a heavy thread The open

areas were then filled in with varia-tions of detached buttonhole stitchattaching them to the couched out-line during the work And last theoutline was covered with the samestitch Carefully cutting through the

couching threads allowed the finished shape to beremoved from the working pad

It only takes imaginationand perhaps a sense of play to letthe colors and threads enhancethe original design idea Here isan example of contemporaryneedlemade lace designed andworked by Jean Goldberg asshown on her websitehttpwwwusers bigpondcomjeangoldbergrunninglhtm 3

There is such a wealth of material in the Lacesection of this website that it takes a long time tolocate what one might want to find Going to the

For further explanations of how to work needlemade lace and to see what others have done thefollowing web sites may be of interest

httpwwwkuusankoskifiHandiscolamallehtmlhttplacelacefairycomIDNeedlelaceIDhtmlhttpwwwrefalocombobbinlaceneedlelacehtmlhttpwwwloreleihalleycomneedlelacehtmhttpwwwgeocitiescommonstonitrusa_and_sneedlelaceneedlelacehtml

Search option and putting in needle lace doesnrsquotreally help as Search will list titles but withoutexplaining contents So the best bet is simply toexplore the contents of the Lace section and try notto veer too far from the chosen path

In trying to find books and articles on thetechnique of needlemade lace one comes up withthe following

DeDillmont Th Needle-Made Laces 1st SeriesDMC 1900 105 pages Frauberger TinaSpitzenkunde [Lace] Seemann 1984 278 pages RicciCleofe Mingarelli Disegni di Trafori 1909 51 pages

Please do not be put off by the fact that two ofthese are not in English the pictures and diagramsare quite sufficient to a complete understanding ofthe process

As has been mentioned before the majority ofearly fine lace was needle made so many of thebooks in the Lace section show pictures of thiswork but the three listed here are specificallybooks on technique

mdash Tess Parrish

Quotations

Small people behind big desks are the same every-where consider them poor of spirit and look elsewhere

mdashAnonymous

There is no excellent beauty that hath not somestrangeness in the proportion

mdash Francis Bacon

Mathematics is a lesser activity than religion in thesense that weve agreed not to kill each other but todiscuss things

mdash Richard Preston

4 Webside 7

National Archives

Many countries have national archives thathouse the most important records of the nation Inthe United States the organization is called USNational Archives and Records Administrationwith the acronym NARA See the screen snap oftheir home page at the bottom of this page

There are millions of items in the archive andmany of them are available online 2

This might not be a place yoursquod think to go toif you were interested in say weaving But everynation has its history and for the United StatesAmerican Indians have played a large role

For this reason alone you might expect to finditems of interest about weaving See the screensnap on the next page

There are of course many other items thatmay be of interest to weavers and lacemakers Oneof particular interest to me is Eli Whitneyrsquos patentfor the original cotton gin shown opposite

Webside 7 5

Lace Corner Part 6

Needlemade lace of the 17th and 18th centu-ries is renowned for being thefinest and best lace ever madeHowever it only reflected thetaste of the times This is anexample of late 19th centurylace made to copy the work ofa century earlier

What about needlemadelace today It is interesting to see that once againlace is responding to contemporary interests Hav-ing always been linked to the fashion industrywhere does handmade lace belong in todayrsquos in-formal and casual costume It has certainly changeddirection going from trim on underwear to a validform of artistic expression and from a commercial

product to a leisure activityNeedle lace is not as popular as bobbin lace

taking more time and skill to produce Howevermany embroiderers have come to lacemaking to-day via the path of detached buttonhole stitch Forindeed that is the basis of needlemade lace Mostpeople know what the humble buttonhole stitchlooks like and how to make it

It is when it is var-ied in execution mate-rial and color that it be-comes something veryexciting And this iswhat the contemporaryneedle artist is doing to-day

A first experimentis shown below The

outline is a simple length of copper wire and it is

6 Webside 7

filled in with variations on de-tached buttonhole stitch

In this next design the foun-dation line was stitched onto apiece of fabric and a series ofhanging shapes

was attached either to the back-ground fabric or from one of theother shapes

And last a lace design froma modern lace school in Idria wasattempted using the traditionalway of setting up and working adesign A working pad made of layers was used asthe backing and the outline of the simple designwas couched down in a heavy thread The open

areas were then filled in with varia-tions of detached buttonhole stitchattaching them to the couched out-line during the work And last theoutline was covered with the samestitch Carefully cutting through the

couching threads allowed the finished shape to beremoved from the working pad

It only takes imaginationand perhaps a sense of play to letthe colors and threads enhancethe original design idea Here isan example of contemporaryneedlemade lace designed andworked by Jean Goldberg asshown on her websitehttpwwwusers bigpondcomjeangoldbergrunninglhtm 3

There is such a wealth of material in the Lacesection of this website that it takes a long time tolocate what one might want to find Going to the

For further explanations of how to work needlemade lace and to see what others have done thefollowing web sites may be of interest

httpwwwkuusankoskifiHandiscolamallehtmlhttplacelacefairycomIDNeedlelaceIDhtmlhttpwwwrefalocombobbinlaceneedlelacehtmlhttpwwwloreleihalleycomneedlelacehtmhttpwwwgeocitiescommonstonitrusa_and_sneedlelaceneedlelacehtml

Search option and putting in needle lace doesnrsquotreally help as Search will list titles but withoutexplaining contents So the best bet is simply toexplore the contents of the Lace section and try notto veer too far from the chosen path

In trying to find books and articles on thetechnique of needlemade lace one comes up withthe following

DeDillmont Th Needle-Made Laces 1st SeriesDMC 1900 105 pages Frauberger TinaSpitzenkunde [Lace] Seemann 1984 278 pages RicciCleofe Mingarelli Disegni di Trafori 1909 51 pages

Please do not be put off by the fact that two ofthese are not in English the pictures and diagramsare quite sufficient to a complete understanding ofthe process

As has been mentioned before the majority ofearly fine lace was needle made so many of thebooks in the Lace section show pictures of thiswork but the three listed here are specificallybooks on technique

mdash Tess Parrish

Quotations

Small people behind big desks are the same every-where consider them poor of spirit and look elsewhere

mdashAnonymous

There is no excellent beauty that hath not somestrangeness in the proportion

mdash Francis Bacon

Mathematics is a lesser activity than religion in thesense that weve agreed not to kill each other but todiscuss things

mdash Richard Preston

Webside 7 5

Lace Corner Part 6

Needlemade lace of the 17th and 18th centu-ries is renowned for being thefinest and best lace ever madeHowever it only reflected thetaste of the times This is anexample of late 19th centurylace made to copy the work ofa century earlier

What about needlemadelace today It is interesting to see that once againlace is responding to contemporary interests Hav-ing always been linked to the fashion industrywhere does handmade lace belong in todayrsquos in-formal and casual costume It has certainly changeddirection going from trim on underwear to a validform of artistic expression and from a commercial

product to a leisure activityNeedle lace is not as popular as bobbin lace

taking more time and skill to produce Howevermany embroiderers have come to lacemaking to-day via the path of detached buttonhole stitch Forindeed that is the basis of needlemade lace Mostpeople know what the humble buttonhole stitchlooks like and how to make it

It is when it is var-ied in execution mate-rial and color that it be-comes something veryexciting And this iswhat the contemporaryneedle artist is doing to-day

A first experimentis shown below The

outline is a simple length of copper wire and it is

6 Webside 7

filled in with variations on de-tached buttonhole stitch

In this next design the foun-dation line was stitched onto apiece of fabric and a series ofhanging shapes

was attached either to the back-ground fabric or from one of theother shapes

And last a lace design froma modern lace school in Idria wasattempted using the traditionalway of setting up and working adesign A working pad made of layers was used asthe backing and the outline of the simple designwas couched down in a heavy thread The open

areas were then filled in with varia-tions of detached buttonhole stitchattaching them to the couched out-line during the work And last theoutline was covered with the samestitch Carefully cutting through the

couching threads allowed the finished shape to beremoved from the working pad

It only takes imaginationand perhaps a sense of play to letthe colors and threads enhancethe original design idea Here isan example of contemporaryneedlemade lace designed andworked by Jean Goldberg asshown on her websitehttpwwwusers bigpondcomjeangoldbergrunninglhtm 3

There is such a wealth of material in the Lacesection of this website that it takes a long time tolocate what one might want to find Going to the

For further explanations of how to work needlemade lace and to see what others have done thefollowing web sites may be of interest

httpwwwkuusankoskifiHandiscolamallehtmlhttplacelacefairycomIDNeedlelaceIDhtmlhttpwwwrefalocombobbinlaceneedlelacehtmlhttpwwwloreleihalleycomneedlelacehtmhttpwwwgeocitiescommonstonitrusa_and_sneedlelaceneedlelacehtml

Search option and putting in needle lace doesnrsquotreally help as Search will list titles but withoutexplaining contents So the best bet is simply toexplore the contents of the Lace section and try notto veer too far from the chosen path

In trying to find books and articles on thetechnique of needlemade lace one comes up withthe following

DeDillmont Th Needle-Made Laces 1st SeriesDMC 1900 105 pages Frauberger TinaSpitzenkunde [Lace] Seemann 1984 278 pages RicciCleofe Mingarelli Disegni di Trafori 1909 51 pages

Please do not be put off by the fact that two ofthese are not in English the pictures and diagramsare quite sufficient to a complete understanding ofthe process

As has been mentioned before the majority ofearly fine lace was needle made so many of thebooks in the Lace section show pictures of thiswork but the three listed here are specificallybooks on technique

mdash Tess Parrish

Quotations

Small people behind big desks are the same every-where consider them poor of spirit and look elsewhere

mdashAnonymous

There is no excellent beauty that hath not somestrangeness in the proportion

mdash Francis Bacon

Mathematics is a lesser activity than religion in thesense that weve agreed not to kill each other but todiscuss things

mdash Richard Preston

6 Webside 7

filled in with variations on de-tached buttonhole stitch

In this next design the foun-dation line was stitched onto apiece of fabric and a series ofhanging shapes

was attached either to the back-ground fabric or from one of theother shapes

And last a lace design froma modern lace school in Idria wasattempted using the traditionalway of setting up and working adesign A working pad made of layers was used asthe backing and the outline of the simple designwas couched down in a heavy thread The open

areas were then filled in with varia-tions of detached buttonhole stitchattaching them to the couched out-line during the work And last theoutline was covered with the samestitch Carefully cutting through the

couching threads allowed the finished shape to beremoved from the working pad

It only takes imaginationand perhaps a sense of play to letthe colors and threads enhancethe original design idea Here isan example of contemporaryneedlemade lace designed andworked by Jean Goldberg asshown on her websitehttpwwwusers bigpondcomjeangoldbergrunninglhtm 3

There is such a wealth of material in the Lacesection of this website that it takes a long time tolocate what one might want to find Going to the

For further explanations of how to work needlemade lace and to see what others have done thefollowing web sites may be of interest

httpwwwkuusankoskifiHandiscolamallehtmlhttplacelacefairycomIDNeedlelaceIDhtmlhttpwwwrefalocombobbinlaceneedlelacehtmlhttpwwwloreleihalleycomneedlelacehtmhttpwwwgeocitiescommonstonitrusa_and_sneedlelaceneedlelacehtml

Search option and putting in needle lace doesnrsquotreally help as Search will list titles but withoutexplaining contents So the best bet is simply toexplore the contents of the Lace section and try notto veer too far from the chosen path

In trying to find books and articles on thetechnique of needlemade lace one comes up withthe following

DeDillmont Th Needle-Made Laces 1st SeriesDMC 1900 105 pages Frauberger TinaSpitzenkunde [Lace] Seemann 1984 278 pages RicciCleofe Mingarelli Disegni di Trafori 1909 51 pages

Please do not be put off by the fact that two ofthese are not in English the pictures and diagramsare quite sufficient to a complete understanding ofthe process

As has been mentioned before the majority ofearly fine lace was needle made so many of thebooks in the Lace section show pictures of thiswork but the three listed here are specificallybooks on technique

mdash Tess Parrish

Quotations

Small people behind big desks are the same every-where consider them poor of spirit and look elsewhere

mdashAnonymous

There is no excellent beauty that hath not somestrangeness in the proportion

mdash Francis Bacon

Mathematics is a lesser activity than religion in thesense that weve agreed not to kill each other but todiscuss things

mdash Richard Preston

Webside 7 7

were in the threadings and sometimes the tie-upshad problems Fortunately Frickinger includedprofile drawdowns for all of the block patternsmaking it easy to tell what was intended when thedraft indicated by the tie-up and threading did notmatch To produce the intended pattern I had torearrange the blocks in some of the tie-ups withcorresponding alterations to the threadings

Zieglerrsquos book contains a some block patternsbut they are not as intricate as Frickingerrsquos andgenerally require fewer shafts and treadles Thisbook also contains some nice hin und weider draftsIt has a large number of beautiful gebrochene twillsand there are some miscellaneous other weavesincluded as well For the gebrochene twills Zieglerprovided tables of threadings using a divisionalnotation along with tables of tie-ups Many differ-ent drafts result through the various combinationsof these A few of the threadings and some of thetie-ups contained errors that I corrected while pro-ducing drafts This divisional notation used inmany early weaving books is similar to a profilethreading in that each division corresponds to ablock of weave structure These ultimately becomegroups of adjacent shafts or treadles when thedivisional profile threading is applied to a tie-up toproduce a threading draft such as in advancingand receding block twills

To produce the drafts for Zieglerrsquos book Iwrote special software for applying divisionalthreadings to tie-ups and using this was able tomake every possible draft given in this book Thissoftware will take any divisional threading apply-ing it to any tie-up to produce a threading draftSoon there will be new page at Handweavingnetwhere anyone can use this to create drafts onlinefrom libraries of tie-ups and threadings This willbe available free of charge initially just like the restof Handweavingnet Because the divisional draft-ing portion of the site uses far more server andnetwork resources than other sections a small an-nual fee may someday be required to use this tohelp cover the cost of providing it If this becomesnecessary it will be waived for anyone who hasmade a purchase from our store

httpwwwhandweavingnetstoreaspx

during the past yearExample drafts from Frickinger and Ziegler

with their Handweavingnet IDs are shown on thefollowing pages

mdash Kris Bruland

New From Handweavingnet

Handweavingnet (wwwhandweavingnet)has two new collections of old German drafts onefor all the drafts in ldquoNuumltzliches Weber-Bild-Buchrdquo1740 by Johann Michael Frickinger and one for allof the drafts in rdquoWeber Kunst und Bild Buchrdquo 1677by Marx Ziegler

Frickingerrsquos book contains many beautifulblock drafts and a section of hin und weider draftsas well These range from 15 through 40 shafts andmany of the tie-ups are damask with some twillstoo A few of the patterns were presented in theoriginal with multiple tie-ups for both weave struc-tures I corrected many errors in the original whileproducing drafts for these patterns including 2232 33 35 46 50 52 56 57 48 59 61 65 67 68 7071 A B C D E and F In some cases the errors

We put thirty spokes together and call it a wheelBut it is on the space where there is nothing that the utility of the wheel dependsWe turn clay to make a vesselBut it is the space where there is nothing that the utility of the vessel dependsWe pierce doors and windows to make a house and it is these spaces where there is nothing that the utility of the house dependsTherefore just as we take advantage of what is we should recognize the utility of what is not

mdash Lao Tse

8 Webside 7

Frickinger Figure 56 ID 54585

Webside 7 9

Ziegler Figure 19 Threading 20 ID 55860

10 Webside 7

Ziegler Figure 35 Threading 4 ID 56163

Webside 7 11

CD List

The following CDs containing weaving and lace material are available Shipping charges are extra

Weaving Documents

The following CDs are available from Complex Weavers marjiemainerrcom

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 1 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 2 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 3 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 4 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 5 $15

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 6 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 7 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 8 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 9 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 10 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 11 $15 new

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 12 $15 new

Weaving Drafts and Supplementary Material

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Thomas Ashenhurst Drafts and Weaving Books $30Ralph E Griswold Drafts $20Morath Posselt Petzold ICS Drafts and Weaving Material $25Donat Large Book of Textile Designs Drafts and Original Book $3995 (sale price)Oelsner Fressinet Wood Pennington Drafts and Weaving Material $25 (sale price)

Needle and Bobbin Club Publications

The following CD is available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Needle and Bobbin Club Bulletins and Articles $15

Webside 7 9

Ziegler Figure 19 Threading 20 ID 55860

10 Webside 7

Ziegler Figure 35 Threading 4 ID 56163

Webside 7 11

CD List

The following CDs containing weaving and lace material are available Shipping charges are extra

Weaving Documents

The following CDs are available from Complex Weavers marjiemainerrcom

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 1 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 2 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 3 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 4 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 5 $15

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 6 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 7 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 8 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 9 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 10 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 11 $15 new

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 12 $15 new

Weaving Drafts and Supplementary Material

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Thomas Ashenhurst Drafts and Weaving Books $30Ralph E Griswold Drafts $20Morath Posselt Petzold ICS Drafts and Weaving Material $25Donat Large Book of Textile Designs Drafts and Original Book $3995 (sale price)Oelsner Fressinet Wood Pennington Drafts and Weaving Material $25 (sale price)

Needle and Bobbin Club Publications

The following CD is available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Needle and Bobbin Club Bulletins and Articles $15

10 Webside 7

Ziegler Figure 35 Threading 4 ID 56163

Webside 7 11

CD List

The following CDs containing weaving and lace material are available Shipping charges are extra

Weaving Documents

The following CDs are available from Complex Weavers marjiemainerrcom

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 1 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 2 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 3 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 4 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 5 $15

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 6 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 7 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 8 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 9 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 10 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 11 $15 new

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 12 $15 new

Weaving Drafts and Supplementary Material

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Thomas Ashenhurst Drafts and Weaving Books $30Ralph E Griswold Drafts $20Morath Posselt Petzold ICS Drafts and Weaving Material $25Donat Large Book of Textile Designs Drafts and Original Book $3995 (sale price)Oelsner Fressinet Wood Pennington Drafts and Weaving Material $25 (sale price)

Needle and Bobbin Club Publications

The following CD is available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Needle and Bobbin Club Bulletins and Articles $15

Webside 7 11

CD List

The following CDs containing weaving and lace material are available Shipping charges are extra

Weaving Documents

The following CDs are available from Complex Weavers marjiemainerrcom

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 1 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 2 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 3 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 4 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 5 $15

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 6 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 7 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 8 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 9 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 10 $15Historic Weaving Archive Volume 11 $15 new

Historic Weaving Archive Volume 12 $15 new

Weaving Drafts and Supplementary Material

The following CDs are available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Thomas Ashenhurst Drafts and Weaving Books $30Ralph E Griswold Drafts $20Morath Posselt Petzold ICS Drafts and Weaving Material $25Donat Large Book of Textile Designs Drafts and Original Book $3995 (sale price)Oelsner Fressinet Wood Pennington Drafts and Weaving Material $25 (sale price)

Needle and Bobbin Club Publications

The following CD is available from Handweavingnet httpwwwhandweavingnetStoreaspx

Needle and Bobbin Club Bulletins and Articles $15

12 Webside 7

Lace Documents

The following CDs are available from Tess Parrish Tess1929aolcom

Historic Lace Archive Volume 1 $10Historic Lace Archive Volume 2 $10Historic Lace Archive Volume 3 $10Historic Lace Archive Volume 4 $10

Web Links

1 Adobe Reader httpwwwadobecomproductsacrobatreadstep2html

2 National Arcives and Records Administration httpwwwarchivesgov

3 Running Like the Red Queen httpwwwusersbigpondcomjeangoldbergrunninglhtm