Faculty/School

School of Business, Computing & Humanities

Department

Department of Hotel, Culinary Arts & Tourism

Programme(s) Title & Level

Bachelor of Arts (Hons) in Culinary Arts(NFQ/QQ1 Level 8

Module Title & Administrative Details

Case Study of a Chef at the forefront of Modernist Cuisine(CULN81000) (CRN: 47229)

Lecturer

Mr. Dan Browne

Elizabeth Cooke

T00184854

Word Count: 1645

Case Study Chef Elizabeth Cooke T00184854

TABLE OF CONTENTS Page No.

1. Introduction 3

2. Chef Chosen 3

3. How his career path led him to Mugaritz 4

4. What he is involved in 6

5. Some of the chefs Andoni has influenced 7

6. What has been happening at Mugaritz 9

Appendix A – Some of his creations 11

Appendix B – Awards won along the way 13 Appendix C – Books written or co-authored 15

Reference List 16

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1. INTRODUCTION

Choosing a chef at the forefront of modernist cuisine is both difficult and challenging. As a

first step, what is “Modernist Cuisine” ? – some consider it to be the art and science of

contemporary cooking (Myhrvold N., Bilet M 2014).  From the authors research it seems

that modernist cuisine has stemmed from “molecular gastronomy”, which chef Heston

Blumenthal believes “it’s practice sounds complicated and elitist” and in December 2006 he

issued a statement on the “new cookery” together with Ferran Adria, Thomas Keller and

Harold McGee (Blumenthal H. 2006).

2. CHEF CHOSEN

“To eat is to share, to open up to the world, to strengthen our connection with the

land where we live and with the people who live there – Andoni Luis Aduriz” (Guia

Repsol 2014).

The above is a quote from Andoni Luis Aduriz, the chef whom I consider to be at the

forefront of modernist cuisine, who owns Mugaritz, which is located on a hillside, outside the

city of San Sebastian (Foods & Wines from Spain 2014). His restaurant was voted No. 6 in

the 2014 Worlds Best Restaurants. (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Guide 2014).

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3. HOW HIS CAREER PATH LEAD HIM TO MUGARITZ

Andoni Luis Aduriz was born on 13th June 1971 in Donostia and began his career in the

kitchen of a pizzeria, where he worked during school holidays and at weekends (Mad 2011).

He left school at 16 and his mother enrolled him in the Donostia School of Cuisine in San

Sebastian as she felt if he could cook he would not starve (Staff Canteen 2013).

In 1991 he trained in Hilario Arbelaitz, Zuberoa Restaurant in Oiartzun and in Jean Louis

Neichel Restaurant, Neichel in Barcelona. Both with one Michelin stars. “Neichel was the

first chef in Spain to separate the different ingredients in such a way that each one stood out

alone without losing their capacity to compliment the others” (Gallimò T. n.d.). Hilario

seems to have influenced Andoni in the short time he was there, as his book “Foie Gras” is

dedicated to him “who has been cooking for many, many years at Zuberoa, like no-one else

does any more in this old country. In silence” (Foods & Wines from Spain 2014).

In 1992 he went to work at Arzak. A three Michelin star restaurant owned by Juan Maria

Arzak whose philosophy is “to have respect for the produce, farmers and fishmongers who

provide it and that food should involve all the senses”. Juan Maria Arzak was one of the first

chefs to have his own Laboratory.

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From there he went to work for Fermin Arrambide in Les Pyrinees, San Juan de Luz-

Donibane, Loitzune. Still in 1992 he worked for Pedro Subijana at Akelarre, in San

Sebastian, a two Michelin star restaurant.

In 1993 he joined the team of El Bulli under Ferran Adria. Andoni has said that Ferran was

influential and a defining part of his career. He taught him to uphold certain values. Andoni

feels that Ferran was perhaps his greatest influence (Staff Canteen 2013). He spent two

seasons at El Bulli.

In 1995 he went to work for Martin Berasategui three Michelin star restaurant Lasarte. In

1996 he became Head Chef. He started Mugaritz in 1998 with Berasategui. He got his first

Michelin star in 2000 and a second one in 2005. In 2008 Andoni and Berasategui went their

separate ways with Andoni keeping Mugaritz (Fernandex G.R. 2013).

All the chefs that Andoni either trained with or worked for have influenced him in some way

or another:

All Michelin Star Restaurants, which Andoni has achieved with Mugaritz.

Juan Mari Arzak, and Pedro Subijana were the first chefs in Spain to realise

the importance of using local dishes and cooking with the seasons.

Having his own Laboratory.

Growing his own produce.

Forging links with local producers and the wider community.

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Talking around the world at various conferences e.g. Mad in Copenhagen

where he spoke at the first symposium in 2011.

In February 2010 a fire devastated the kitchens at Mugaritz, it took them 4 months to reopen.

He has said of this time that only from working in El Bulli and being taught to carry on he

may never have got the restaurant back on its feet.

Mugaritz closes for 4 to 6 months every year in which time all the chefs come up with new

ideas and concepts for the season’s menus. No one person comes up with the ideas,

everybody works as a team producing a menu that constantly reinvents itself (Elite Traveler

2015). He is constantly pushing the boundaries with food and science. See pictures in

Appendix A.

4. WHAT HE IS INVOLVED IN

His restaurant has been regularly highlighted in the pages of French Gault & Mullau, Saveur,

Italian Gambero Rosso and Japanese Cuisine Kingdom. He travels extensively giving talks.

He has won various awards, see Appendix B. He is the creator of Dialogos de Cocina, a

biannual international meeting designed to promote the exchange of ideas between haute

cuisine, high end catering and various consultants, thinkers, networks and research groups.

He sits on the board of Euro Toque and he is a member of Innobasque Board of Directors, an

intra-professional group uniting the Basque region’s top technological, business, scientific,

and creative leaders (Star Chefs 2014).

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Andoni also belongs to the Foundation Board of the Basque Culinary Centre and regularly

runs training courses at Basque Country University, the University of Deusto, the training

centre of Alain Ducasse (ADF) and in The Culinary Institute of America (CIA), passing on

his culinary legacy (Four Magazine 2014). He has written and co-authored numerous books,

see Appendix C.

He has always believed in the importance of involving everybody from the local producers,

the food industry, world research, innovation, universities and culture. (Rodriguez J., 2014).

He is held in high regard by his peers as in 2008 and 2012 he received the Chef Choice

Award (Chefs Choice Awards 2014).

In 2012 Andoni became the Gastronomy Manager at Abadia Retuerta Le Domaine where he

installed Pablo Montero as Head Chef who had trained in some of the finest internationally

renowned restaurants and spent some time with the team at Mugaritz. Andoni considers Pablo

as one of his most talented protégés. In 2014 Pablo received his First Michelin Star (Draper

E. 2014). Andoni is also the creator and head of the healthy menus and diets for the

restaurant Healthouse Las Dunas*****GL (Health House 2014).

5. SOME OF THE CHEFS ANDONI HAS INFLUENCED

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All the chefs who have worked at Mugaritz have come away with immense respect for

nature, produce, seasonality and are producing unique styles of food using modern

techniques. Australian Dan Hunter started working in Mugaritz in January 2005 on a three

month stage, at the end he was chef de partie. By 2006 he was sous chef and then head chef

which he held for 1 year. He returned to Australia in 2007 to take up the position of

Executive Chef at the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, Western Victoria, where he spent 6 years

(Star Chefs 2014).   In 2013 he opened his own place Brae on 30 acres in Otway, Melbourne.

(Brae Restaurant 2014).

Chilean Franaisco Araya worked at Alma in Santiago before training at Mugaritz. In2013 he

received his first Michelin Start for 81 Restaurant in Tokyo.

Oswaldo Oliva spent 7 years working at Mugaritz starting in 2007 where he travelled the

world to food events accompanying Aduriz for presentations and cookery demonstrations.

He is now back in Mexico planning to open his own place (Bansal G., 2014).

Matt Lightner, owner of two Michelin star restaurant Alera in New York, travelled to Spain

in 2007 as part of a group of 15 chefs from around the world chosen for the ICEX program

(Foods & Wines from Spain 2014). During his time in Spain he spent 18 months at Mugaritz

(Star Chef 2014).

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Rafe Costa e Silva worked at Mugaritz for 5 years from April 2007, he was promoted to sous

chef the same year. In 2010 he became head chef, a position he held for 2 years before

returning home to Rio de Janeiro to open his own restaurant Lasai (Bianchi L. 2014). In

December 2014 Andoni went to work with Rafe for 3 days to create a 17 course tasting menu

(Gonzalez R.M., 2014).

Julieta Caruso worked at Mugaritz for 6 years having reached the position of head chef. She

left to travel and spent a month in 2014 travelling around the Philippines with chef Jose Luis

“Chele” Gonzelez which resulted in a 13 course dinner at Gallery Vaksk in Manila

showcasing what the country has to offer (Ayuyao M. 2014).

Jose Luis “Chele” Gonzelez worked at Mugaritz from 2007 to 2008. He now owns the

Gallery Vaksk Restaurant in Manila (Madrid Fusion 2015).

Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2014, Helena Rizzo spent some time working in

the kitchen at Mugaritz (The Guardian 2012).

6. WHAT HAS BEEN HAPPENING AT MUGARITZ

In December 2012 Mugaritz was fined for buying foie gras from an unlicensed local farmer.

Aduriz said “he was proud to pay the fine to show support to local farmers who produced the

best quality foie gras on smallholdings that cannot obtain licences” (Tremlett G. 2012).

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In 2012 he wrote the book “Mugaritz – A Natural Science of Cooking”, the introduction of

which was written by Thomas Keller and Ferran Adria (Bansal G., 2014)

In April 2015 as part of “Visit the Philippines Year 2015” the staging of Madrid Fusion

Manila will take place. This global event will showcase Spanish and Filipino chefs

celebrating over 300 years of shared history. Andoni will be speaking at the conference and

he is bringing the Mugaritz kitchen for a one night pop up at Gonzalez’s Gallery Vaksk for a

12 course dinner (Madrid Fusion Manila 2015).

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APPENDIX A

SOME OF HIS CREATIONS

“An Interpretation of Vanity: Juicy Chocolate “Potatoes cooked in gray clay with aCake, Cold Milk Cream, Gold and Chocolate light cream of garlic confit & farm eggBubbles” (Star Chefs 2009). yolk” (Star Chefs 2009).

“Frozen desert rose” (Four Magazine n.d).

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“Ember roasted corn cake with a spoonful of curd” (Four Magazine n.d).

“Ice Shreds. Scarlet shrimp perfume” (Four Magazine n.d).

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APPENDIX B - AWARDS WON ALONG THE WAY

Andoni has won various awards which include:

YEAR AWARD AWARDED BY

2000 First Michelin Star Michelin Guide

2001 Best Junior Chef Premio Bidasoa (25 important Restaurant Journalists of Spain

2002 Chef of the Year Patissier of the Year

Spanish Academy of Gastronomy

2003 Best Restaurant Canal Cocina

2005 Second Michelin Star Member of the Cofradia Casca de

Gastronomia

Michelin GuideBasque Gastronomy Brotherhood

2006 No. 10 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants

Award for Gastronomic & Tourism Innovation

S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

Fundacion Candido

2007 No. 7 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

2008 No. 4 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants

Chef’s Choice AwardS.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

2009 No. 4 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

2010 No. 5 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

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YEAR AWARD AWARDED BY

2011 No. 3 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

2012 No. 3 in the World’s Top 50

Restaurants Chef’s Choice Award Witzigmann Prize for Innovation

S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

Named after Austrian Culinary Pioneer Eckart Witzigmann for Innovation. Recognises culinary excellence, innovation & sustainability as well as social responsibility.

2013 No. 4 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

2014 No. 6 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants S.Pellegrino & Aequa Panna

(Foods & Wines from Spain 2014) and (Mugaritz 2014)

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APPENDIX C - BOOKS WRITTEN OR CO-AUTHORED

He is a prolific author and co-author of numerous books, articles and even a children’s

culinary magazine (Mugaritz 2014) and (Foods & Wines from Spain 2014):

La Joven Cocina Vasca – co-author (1996). Ixo editorial

El Mercado en el Plato – co-author (1998). Ixo editorial

Tabula Huevo (2000). Ixo editorial

Foie Gras (2002). Ixo editorial

Tabula Bacalao (2003). Montagud editors

Clorofilia (2004). Ixo editorial

Txikichef (2006) Hariadna editorial

Bestiarium Gastronomicae (2006). Ixo editorial

Tabula 35mm (2007). Ixo editorial

Diccionario Botanico par Cocineros (2007). Ixo editorial

La Botanica de deseo (2008). Prologo de la edicion en castellano del libro de Michael Pollan

Las Primeras Palabras de la Cocina –co-author (2009). Ixo editorial

Los Bajos de la Alta Cocina (2009). Ixo editorial

El Dilema de Omnivoro (2011). Prologo de la edicion en castellano de libro de

Michael Pollan

El Gourmet Extraterrestre (2011).Editorial Planeta

Larousse Gastronomique – contributor (2011). Editorial Larousse. Edicion Revisada y prologada por A. Luis Aduriz

Innovacion abierta y alta cocina (2011). Ediciones Piramide

Mugaritz – A Natural Science of Cooking (2012). Editorial Phaidon Press

Cocinar, comer. Convivir (2012). Ediciones Destino

Las recetas de mi casa (2013). Ediciones Destino

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REFERENCESAbad M. (2014), “To create you have to believe”, [online], 30 July, available: http://www.ferranadria.fundaciontelefonica.com/en/andoni-aduriz-create-believe/Andoni-Aduriz [accessed 14 Jan 2015].

Ayuvao M. (2014), “40 Days & 40 Nights with Mugaritz’s Former Head Chef Julieta Caruso”, [online], 17 Aug, available: http://www.pepper.ph/Julieta-Caruso-feature [accessed 16 Feb 2015]

Bansal G. (2015), “Chef Oswaldo Oliva: Mexico to Mugaritz and Back”, [online], 22 Jan, available: http://www.chefgeeta.wordpress.com/2015/01/22/oswaldo-olivia-mexico-mugaritz/ [accessed 12 Feb 2015].

Bermeo M. Jr (2015), “Mugaritz – A restaurant like no other Pp20-35”, [online] Feb 2015 edition, available: http://www.wogamagazine/issu.com/wogoa/docs/wo_goa_something _is_always_brewing_336fo951be1432/21/?e=111532346/11215559 [accessed 16 Feb 2015].

Bianchi L. (2014), “Rafe Costa e Silva – The New Star of Brazilian Cuisine”, [online], 14 July, available: http://www.fourmagazine.com [accessed 12 Feb 2015].

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Fernandex G.R. (n.d.), “Andoni Luis Aduriz, The Sensitive Chef”, [online] available: http:// www.foodswinesfromspain.com/spanishfoodwine/global/chefs-training/chefs-pastry-chefs-chocolatiers/chefs/4444062.html [accessed 28 Jan 2014].

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Gonzalez Lamas R.M. (2014), ”Mugaritz Rocks in Rio”, [online] available: http://www. foodswinesfromspain.com/Spanishfoodwine/tools/news/NEW20/4359673.html [accessed 15 Feb 2015].

Guia Repsol (2014), [online] available: http://www.guiarepsol.com/en/gastronomy/chefs-with -three-suns/andoni-aduriz [accessed 12 Jan 2015].

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Jenkins A. (2012) “Mugaritz Spain Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz”, [online] 18 March, available: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2012/mar/18/mugaritz-spain-chef-andoni-luis-aduriz [accessed 30 Jan 2015].

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McCormack R. (2014) “A Master of Basque Cuisine” [online], 2 Aug, available: http://www. four-magazine.com/articles/1764/a-master-of-basque-cuisine [accessed 19 Jan 2015].

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Tremlett G. (2014), “Mugaritz Restaurant Fined” [online] available: http://www.theguardian .com/world/2012/dec/14/mugaritz-restaurant-fined-foie-gras [accessed 24 Jan 2015].

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