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February 2013 Next Meeting: February20th, 2013 AMA Chartered Club # 139

Web Site: http://flypcc.org/ Field Phone: 650-712-4423

President Mike Solaegui 415-314-6261 mikes@perfectedgecutlery.com Vice President Oliver Salles 650-375-1960 N.A. Secretary Dennis Lowry 415-285-4496 dennis.lowry@groupdelphi.com Treasurer Greg Romine 650-736-7230 gsromine@stanford.edu Field Safety Officer / Webmaster Matt Abrams 415-370-3323 matt@matt-abrams.com Membership Chairman Ellsworth Crowell 650-591-0851 N.A. Editor/Flight Proficiency Chairman

Brian Chan 650-867-8813 pcceditor@gmail.com

WHAT’S HAPPENING @ PCC

JANUARY MEETING MINUTES

Mike Solaegui for Dennis Lowry January 16, 2013

Call to Order: Mike Solaegui called meeting to order.

40 members

Past member Neil Reed visited us, maybe rejoining.

Minutes approved.

No new club, field or safety issues.

Matt Abrams has a very well developed Y6 copter, multiple cameras, auto pilot, and stabilizers.

Carlos Reyes demonstrated the micro copter he won at the last holiday dinner.

Greg Romine showed a twin Trittle.

Martin Chorley has a complete micro copter for sale.

This meeting was the most social, loud and friendly that I recall, makes me proud to be part of PCC!

Mike

MEMBERSHIP RENEWAL Yes, how time flies when you are having fin! It is that time again, slowly approaching Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas! It is time to renew your PCC and AMA membership.

Renew your AMA membership now in order to get the 2012 Card before January. AMA renewal can be done

online @

https://www.modelaircraft.org/joinrenew.aspx You will need the 2013 AMA license to renew

your 2013 PCC membership, NO EXCEPTION.

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When you receive your 2013 AMA card, mail a copy of it along with your $125.00 ($100.00 membership fee + $25.00 field surcharge) check made out to “PCC” to:

PCC Treasurer 1779 Woodland Ave., Ste. #28 Palo Alto, CA 94303 Or bring your AMA card and a check (or cash!) to the next PCC meeting (save you 45 cents and an envelope!) Dues are $125.00 if paid before the New Year, $135.00 after January 1st 2013. It will be $145.00 if paid after February 1st!

YEAR BAR FOR CLUB BADGE

The year bars are finally available. If you already received your 2013 membership card, you will need to send a SASE to our treasurer to obtain one or get it

at the meeting. The address is listed above. The year bar is the proof that you are a current member at the field, or someone can ask you to show your current membership card. UPCOMING EVENTS February 10 Chinese New Year! Year of the Snake. 20 PCC Meeting, 7:30 p.m., Dave Chetcuti Rm, Millbrae

March 20 PCC Meeting, 7:30 p.m., Dave Chetcuti Rm, Millbrae

April 13 SCCMAS Swap Meet, SCCMAS, Morgan Hill. 17 PCC Meeting, 7:30 p.m., Dave Chetcuti Rm, Millbrae

PRODUCT WARNING: STAY-BRITE SOLDERING FLUX.

Brian Chan I am sure most modelers had purchased this product to solder the wire landing gear together. I always have one in my shop and the stuff works great. The last one I bought was about 5-6 years ago, I think!

I was assembling a wire landing gear, and was using the Stay-Brite silver solder to solder them together. After I applied a drop or two of the flux to the joint, I proceed to cap the bottle of flux and tighten the cap. Then it happened, the bottle shattered in my hands, sending flux flying all over me and the work bench. I quickly jump into the shower, fully clothed and rinsed the acid off. Luckily the acid is not that strong. I did feel a slight burning sensation on the skin where the acid had landed. After the shower, there were no visible scars on the skin. The t-shirt I was wearing had several yellow stain marks on it.

I cannot say exactly how old the bottle was, it was stored in a glass jar in a wood cabinet. So it was exposed to very limited sunlight. I am not sure if the acid had caused the plastic bottle to become brittle. I don't know how one can tell if the plastic bottle is still good or not. So be careful when you use it next time. I was lucky that I wore glassed so the acid did not get to my eyes.

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LIQUITEX MATTE VARNISH Brian Chan

Don't you just want those scale ARF's have a matte finish as their full size counter parts and not covered with the glossy plastic film?

I saw another modeler at SACRC field has a nice matte finishes on his golden era model. I asked how he achieves that kind of finish and he told me he used a product name Liquitex Varnish. It is water-based and came in different level of glossiness from glossy to flat. Here is the information from their web site. I did not have a chance to experiment with it yet, but it will go on my 88" Tiger moth. http://www.liquitex.com/archivalpermanentvarnish/ Permanent Varnish Texture: Fluid Sheen: Matte, Satin, Gloss or High Gloss Relative Opacity:Transparent when dry • Water-based Technology • Translucent when wet, clear when dry • Low Odor • Permanent and Durable • Resists discoloring (non-yellowing, non-fogging) due to

humidity, heat and ultraviolet light. • Can be used with Spray Paint, Heavy Body, Soft Body • Dry to a non-tacky, hard, flexible surface that is resistant

to dirt retention • Hard, archival, non-yellowing and water resistant when

dry • Protects acrylic color from harsh elements • For interior and exterior use

Spray application 1. Use outdoors or in a well-ventilated area at temperatures

greater than 5°C.

2. Ensure the artwork is fully dry before applying varnish. Shake can for one minute before use.

3. Hold can 8-10" from the surface. For best results spray artwork flat.

4. When finished spraying, turn can upside down and push spray button for 5 seconds to prevent clogging.

5. Allow at least 12 hours drying between coats of varnish.

Application • Apply as a final varnish over dry acrylic paint.

• Varnish surface and environment must be clean, dry and dust free.

• Acrylic paintings must be completely dried and cured for 48-72 hours before varnishing.

• Application may be done by brush or spray. Generally a sprayed application will be thinner, smoother and more even. Rolling or sponging application is not recommended.

• Caution: Acrylic paints and mediums become increasingly brittle in cold weather. Do not apply below 60 °F.

Brush and Paint Pad Application • Use a wide, soft hair brush or paint pad (vacuum the pad

prior to use to remove lint). Size of area to be varnished will determine the size of the applicator. The smaller the surface area, the narrower the brush. Generally, a 1-4" flat brush is used.

• Apply Liquitex varnish in 1-3 thin coats, rather than 1 thick coat. A thick coat will take longer to dry, may dry cloudy, may drip or sag during application and has a greater chance of showing brush strokes when dry.

• Horizontal surface application is best with less chance of varnish running. After varnishing, the surface should be shielded with a protective "tent". This will prevent any dust or airborne particles from settling into varnish as it dries.

• Apply Liquitex varnish in slightly overlapping pattern that covers entire artwork. Apply in horizontal and vertical brush strokes, so that entire area is evenly coated.

• Do not rework areas you might miss as the brush could pick up partially dried varnish and cause clouding. If areas are missed, wait until the varnish is dry and apply another coat.

• When applying Liquitex Matte Varnish or Satin Varnish, apply no more than 1-2 thin coats. A thick application may result in cloudiness when dry. If more than 2 coats are desired, first varnish with Gloss Varnish until desired thickness is achieved, then final varnish with matte or satin varnish.

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Airbrush Application

Refer to Techniques and search on Airbrushing for more detailed information. Most even application method. Use for textured surfaces (thick impasto, thick textures), where brush application may result in foaming and fragile surfaces (watercolor, tempera, graphite, pastel, gouache), where brush application may disrupt drawing or painted surface.

• Select air pressure (PSI) depending on air gun used and viscosity of varnish. Greater PSI permits thicker varnish to be sprayed, but may affect fragile surfaces.

• 2-3 light even coats are better than 1 thick coat.

• Spray a continuous film by moving the spray gun in a smooth motion from one side of the painting to the other. First coat horizontal, second coat, third coat horizontal, etc.

• During spray application maintain same distance across the surface of the artwork. Move your body as well as your arm to avoid "arching" motion and uneven application.

Thinning • Do not thin, as it will weaken the varnish film and

adhesion.

Removal Not removable. Do not attempt to remove these varnishes with harsh solvents.

THE PARTY@HARRY'S HOFBRAU What can I say? If you did not go, you missed a fun evening event with good food and good friends! And missed the chance to win some cash, great prizes and exchange tall stories!

A whole bunch of party animals...

Talking and eating.......

Jakester!

Thanks to Cliff and Pam of J&M hobby House, Ray amassed a lot of great raffle prizes!!

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Great to see Ellsworth and Jean at the party.

Roger is ready for the 50/50 drawing.

John and Eric picking the 50/50 winning ticket.

Some of the raffle winners at the party.

More photographs of the party on the http://www.flypcc.org/coppermine/

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The 50/50 Winner! Dennis said he will put the winning towards the Oceana's Interim Course in Model Aviation project. Dennis heads the project every year at the Oceana High School during the spring break. He is always looking for volunteers for helping out at the class. If you have time and would like to help, contact Dennis at dennis.lowry@groupdelphi.com or call him at 415-285-4496.

Kenny with his Buzzard Bombshell. Powered by an Cox 0.49 engine. The plane is purposely built for SAM Texaco event. Reimholz photo.

Greg's de Havilland Dh-89 Dragon Rapid.

Dennis' Miss Los Angeles, from a Pat Trittle kit.

Albert's F-15 Eagle, turbine powered. It uses up the whole runway.

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Ray taxis his Corsair back after an off runway excursion.

Yes, it can fly!

Mike K's Freewing, all foam and FAST!

Phil and his Aeromaster (a non 3-D biplane).

Daniel's Shoestring pylon racer, FAST 2!

Hot Pit actions. Mike, Ray and Albert.

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Next Meeting: Wednesday, February 20th, 2013, 7:30 p.m.