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Copyright 2006, Belvoir Media Group, LLC THE WHOLE DOG JOURNAL |

March 2006

The Whole Dog JournalVOLUME 9NUMBER 3

TM

FEATURES

A monthly guide to natural dog care and training

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE

2 Editors Note24 Product and Expert Resources

3 Is Cancer Prevention Possible?Holistic practitioners suspect that if it ispossible to prevent canine cancer, the keywill be found in a robust immune system.

8 Way to StayHow to produce a completely dependablestay in your dog, no matter what thedistraction. (Hint: It takes a lot of practice!)

12 Heartworm: Dont Take It LightlyThis is one aspect of canine healthcare

for which conventional medicine offers thebest and perhaps the only truly reliable

prevention and treatment protocols.

16 The Shape of Things to ComeThis training technique can be used to get

your dog to do just about anything. The bestpart is, its really fun for you and your dog!

20 Brains of the OperationThe Tour of the Dog is electrified by a lookinto the central nervous system.

$5.95

Stay as long

as you want. . . page 8

Use this or something like it. . . page 12

All systemsare go . . .

page 20

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2|MARCH 2006 Copyright 2006, Belvoir Media Group, LLC

EDITORS NOTEEDITORS NOTE

Readers may be surprised to learn fromHeartworm: Dont Take It Lightly,page 12, that we recommend the use ofconventional heartworm preventativedrugs. Our usual suggestion is to mini-

mize the use of pesticides, vaccines, artificialfood additives, and toxic chemicals on oraround dogs, so onemight guess that wed alsobe opposed to heartworm preventatives.

One can readily find numerous anecdotalreports about raw-fed, holistically supported

dogs who successfully resist heartworm infec-tion without the benefit of preventatives, oreven dogs who live well into their senior yearswhile hosting a small population of heart-worms. Some holistic practitioners believe thisis the natural state of a healthy dog.A properlyfed dog with a vibrant immune system, theysay, should be able to live in a state of relativehealth and balance with parasites.

Challenge studies have demonstrated thatif dogs who were never previously exposed toheartworm were deliberately infected with 100heartworm larvae, between 60 and 75 adult

worms will develop in about 90 percent of thedogs. This suggests that dogs do have somesmall amount of natural resistance to the para-sites. But we think its folly to bet your dogslife on the notion that you can build his resis-tance to heartworm solely with a natural dietand holistic healthcare particularly in areaswhere heartworm disease is prevalent.

Thats because weve also heard storiesfrom people like Christie Keith, a ScottishDeerhound breeder and longtime advocate ofrawdiets and holistic healthcare for dogs. Keithopted not to administer conventional heart-

worm preventatives to her dogs for 16 years

BY NANCY KERNS

Prevention PlusIts simple; sometimes conventional medicine is best.

but was converted to their use after two of herraw-fed dogs developed heartworm infections.Weve heard other heartworm tragedies, butKeiths story is particularly resonant. If suchan experienced and dedicated proponent ofholistic healthcare wasnt successful in a low-risk environment at preventing infection in herdogs, perhaps it just cant be done. It may wellbe that dogs were never meant to have to resistyear after year of repeated exposure to the para-sites.

However, we have determined that there area number of ways that you can minimize youruse of the conventional preventatives and stillfully protect your dog. Researcher Mary Strausbrings these findings to light on page 12.

TRAINING TIPS

We also have two really great training articlesin this issue: Mardi Richmonds Way to Stayon page 8 and Pat Millers The Shape ofThings to Come on page 16. Both articles of-fer detailed instruction on fun, positive methodsfor producing a happy, well-behaved dog who

is highly motivated to figure out what you wantand do it.

There is, however, a catch one that shouldbe apparent from the length of the articles: you

have to actually practicewith your dog to achieveyour training goals! Tryit! Youll be amazed atwhat you and your dogcan accomplish in just afew minutes of positivetraining a day every day.

MISSION STATEMENT: WDJs mission is to provide dog guardians with in-depth information oneffective holistic healthcare methods and successful nonviolent training. The methods we discusswill endeavor to do no harm to dogs; we do not advocate perpetrating even minor transgressions inthe name of greater good. We intend our articles to enable readers to immediately apply trainingand healthcare techniques to their own dogs with visible and enjoyable success. All topics shouldcontribute to improving the dogs health and vitality, and deepening the canine/human bond. Aboveall, we wish to contribute information that will enable consumers to make kind, healthy, and in-formed decisions about caring for their own dogs.

THE WHOLE DOGJOURNAL (ISSN #1097-5322) is published monthly

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BY CJ PUOTINEN

Is Cancer Prevention Possible?

W

If so, experts are certain the key will lie in a healthy immune system.

hat could be better than curingyour dogs cancer? Thats easy!How about avoiding the illnessin the first place?

No one has done any clini-cal trials or statistical studies thatprove youcan prevent cancer in at-risk dogs. Butcommon sense and clinical experience makea strong case for avoiding anything that ex-poses an animal to known carcinogens orweakens the immune system, says StaceyHershman, DVM, a holistic housecall vet-erinarian in Rockland County, New York.

Just like their human companions, dogslive longer, healthier liveswhen they eattheright foods, get enough exercise, breatheclean air, drink clean water, and stay awayfrom harmful substances. They may also behelped by immune-boosting herbs, supple-ments, special foods, and a few things youmight not have thought of. Heres a review

of recommendationsfrom holistic veterinar-ians and other experts.

Good genesAn important first step in selecting a puppyor adult dog is learning everything you canabout the immediate family parents,grandparents, siblings, aunts, uncles, cous-ins, etc. Some breeds are notoriously proneto cancer, and some lines within thosebreeds reinforce the trend. Look for good

genes and good health when selecting pup-pies or adopting adult dogs.

Of course, rescued dogs seldom comewith this documentation, and even the best-bred dog can develop cancer. But startingwith good raw material can reduce the risk and if you know that your dog may beprone to certain types of cancer, do whatyou can, starting today, to make that diag-nosis less likely.

Spaying/neuteringThe statistics are convincing: female dogs

have a significantly lower risk of develop-ing mammary tumors if they are spayedbefore coming into season for the first orsecond time, and testicular cancer is obvi-ously not a problem in neutered males.

But while early spaying reduces the riskof mammary cancer, it quadruples the riskof developing cardiac hemangiosarcomas(vascular tumors) compared to intact fe-males. In addition, a study of 3,218 dogsneutered before oneyear of age showed thatboth males and females had a significantlyincreased chance of developing osteosar-

coma (bone tumors) compared to intactmales and females.Understanding your dogs inherited risks

canhelp youmake informed decisions aboutwhether and when to schedule surgery.

VaccinationsFor Dr. Hershman and most holistic veteri-narians, routine vaccinations top the list ofthings to avoid. Vaccines really disrupt theimmune system, she says,especially com-

MEDICINE

bination vaccines that are given annually.Like many holistic veterinarians, she recommends a single-dose parvovirusvaccination at age 10 to 12 weeks, followedby a single-dose distemper vaccination fouweeks later and a rabies vaccination afteage six months.

I check the effectiveness of these shotwith blood titer tests, she says. If immun it y i s s tr o ng , t he r es n o n e ed t orevaccinate. If its weak, I repeat whateverthe puppy needs for protection.

Label directions warn veterinarians noto vaccinate a sick animal; Dr. Hershmanincludes injured or stressed animals in thacaution. Vaccinating a dog whos beingspayed, neutered, or treated for an injury istotally irresponsible, she says. You wanthe animal to be healthy, with a strong vitaforce, not in a weakened, vulnerable statewhen you introduce substances designed tochallenge the immune system.

Responding to decades of research by

TM

s

The Whole Dog Journal

WHAT YOU CAN DO . . .

Study your dogs breed and line

for cancer risk factors.

Avoid unnecessary vaccinations

and symptom-suppressing

drugs.

Work with a holistic vet to find

alternatives that work.

Improve your dogs immune

system with diet and

supplements.

Protect your dog from

environmental toxins, lawn

chemicals, second-hand smoke,

and pesticides.

MEDICINE

s

s

s

s

A minimal vaccination protocol is recommended by holistic vets andveterinarycolleges. Increasingly, overvaccinationhas been identified as a health risk.

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immunologists, veterinary textbooks andcolleges no longer recommend annual vac-cinations for dogs, but most veterinaryclinics continue to prescribe them. Theyroutinely prescribe antibiotics, steroids, andother symptom-suppressing drugs, too,says Dr. Hershman, and those take a tollon the immune system. Whenever you canuse nutrition, homeopathy, acupuncture,

medicinal herbs, or other natural therapiesinstead of symptom-suppressing drugs, youstrengthen the dogs immunity. A strongimmune system is the best defense againstcancer.

The right dietAdvocates of home-prepared diets for dogshave long claimed that their animals arehealthier than they would be on commer-cial pet food. Beth Taylor and Steve Brown,authors ofSee Spot Live Longer, agree. Theyblame dry and canned dog foods for a hostof problems because they usually containinferior-quality proteins, fats, and carbohy-drates, a variety of toxins, highly processedgrains, chemical preservatives, allergens,and other questionable ingredients.

Many veterinarians blame grain-basedpet foods for diabetes, digestive problems,and other canine disorders. After all, thecanine digestive tract evolved on a diet ofprey animals, consisting mostly of meat andbones, not wheat and corn.

Every few years, aflatoxin, which growson corn, rice, and other grains, contaminatespet foods and kills dogs (see Yes, Dog

Food Can Kill, February 2006). In addi-tion to causing liver damage, aflatoxin is apotent carcinogen, so even safe levels that

dont cause obvious disease outbreaks cancontribute, over time, to cancer.

Another carcinogen found in grain-based foods is acrylamide, once believedto exist only in industrial waste. However,acrylamide has recently been found almosteverywhere in the human diet. This taste-less, invisible by-product is formed whenhigh-carbohydrate foods are fried or baked

at high temperatures. French fries and po-tato chips contain the highest concentra-tions, but acrylamide occurs in breads andbreakfast cereals as well.

The U.S. Environmental ProtectionAgency (EPA) considers acrylamide so dan-gerous that it set the safe level for humanconsumption at almost zero, with the maxi-mum safe level in drinking water set at 0.5parts per billion. A small serving of Frenchfries contains over 400 parts per billion. Noone has tested pet foods, but any processedfoods that contain carbohydrates, especiallythose extruded at high temperature likegrain-based kibble or canned under highheat and pressure, pose a risk.

Considering how ubiquitous these car-cinogens are, says San Francisco-area doghealth researcher Mary Straus, and con-sidering that cancer cells thrive oncarbohydrates, avoiding grains altogethermay be one way to help lower the risk ofcancer.

In addition to reducing levels of carbohydrates and carcinogens, feeding ahome-prepared diet of pasture-fed,organically produced ingredients (see

Upgrading to Pasture-Fed, July 2003)insures that your dog will not ingestpesticide and drug residues. Food preparedat home from conventionally farmedingredients may not be free of pesticideresidues, but it is unlikely to contain

chemical preservatives, artificial colors orflavors, or the by-products of high-

heat processing.In his book, Work Wonders:

Feed Your Dog Raw Meaty

Bones, Australian veterinarianTom Lonsdale observes, We

need more information about thecancer epidemic in domesticdogs. However, basic nutritionaland medical principles tell us thatdiet is the likely main factor.

Without waiting for extrai n f o r m a t i o n ,

and because cancer often takes years todevelop, its best to start puppies on acancer-prevention diet early. From thewhelping box to the grave, let Prevention,not treatment be our motto.

Dietary supplementsAntioxidant supplements, which help pro-tect the body from damage by free radicals,

have many health benefits, including can-cer protection. Best-selling antioxidantsupplements include vitamins A, C, and E,beta carotene, lycopene, and the mineralselenium. Bear in mind that some alterna-tive cancer treatments, such as artemisinin,are not compatible with antioxidants.

Food-source antioxidants, vitamins, andother nutrients derived from whole foodsare recommended by many holistic veteri-narians because they are recognized as foodby the body and are more easily assimilatedthan synthetic vitamins grown in a labora-tory. The words whole food or foodsource indicate natural rather than syn-thetic ingredients.

One of the simplest cancer-resistingsupplements you can add to your dogs food,according to Bruce Fife, ND, is coconut oil.Dr. Fife, the author of several books aboutcoconuts health benefits, recommendsfeeding dogs 1 teaspoon of coconut oil per10 pounds of body weight per day in divideddoses. Thats 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) fora 30-pound dog and 2 tablespoons for a 60-pound dog. (See Crazy About CoconutOil, October 2005.)

The medium-chain fatty acids in coco-nut oil help treat or prevent all kinds ofillnesses, he says, and they have signifi-cant anti-tumor properties. Giving your dogcoconut oil every day is inexpensive healthinsurance.

Dried shredded coconut (the unsweet-ened kind) is an excellent source of fiber,another factor in cancer prevention. Tryadding a teaspoon to a tablespoon of shred-ded coconut to your dogs home-preparedfood. If feeding dry food, add a little wateror soak the shredded coconut first.

Vegetables are controversial ingredientsbecause theyre hard for dogs to digest. Buta simple lactofermentation process not onlyimproves the digestibility and assimilationof vegetables, it increases their vitamin con-tent and makes them a valuable source ofbeneficial bacteria. In fact, the treated veg-etables are both a prebiotic (food that feeds

beneficial bacteria) andprobiotic (food that containsbeneficial bacteria). In Eu-

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rope, lactofermented vegetables are the keyingredient in a popular cancer treatment.

To make lactofermented vegetables (seeIts All in How You Make It, March2001), simply grate, shred, or puree carrotsand other vegetables, add 1 teaspoonsunrefined sea salt per quart (4 cups) of veg-etables, add the contents of a probioticsupplement such as acidophilus, and press

everything in a bowl or glass jar until juicecovers the vegetables. (The task is madeconsiderably easier with a Japanese saladpress like the one seen on page 4; see Can-cer Prevention Resources, page 6, forpurchasing information.)

Close the jar tightly or, if using a bowl,cover vegetables with a plate weighted by a

jar filled with water. Let stand at room tem-perature until the vegetables give off avinegar-like fragrance; this will usually taketwo to three days, depending on their con-sistency and room temperature. Refrigerate.Use to replace vegetables in any home-prepared recipe, or add 1 tablespoon to cup lactofermented vegetables to each meal.

Environmental factorsTake two individuals from the same litterof puppies of a breed or family that has ahigh cancer risk. Place one with a family ofheavy smokers wholivenextto a busy high-way, use lawn chemicals, drink fluoridatedtap water, and have high-current power linesin the backyard. Place the other pup on apristine organic farm. Feed both the samediet and let several years go by. You dont

have to bean oncologist toknowwhich dogis more likely to develop cancer.

Second-hand smoke is a serious prob-lem for pets, especially those who spendhours every day at the feet of their smokingcompanions. I tell all my clients whosmoke that theyre putting their dogs healthat risk, says Dr. Hershman. I saw it hap-pen in my own family, and it breaks myheart. Second-hand smoke is as dangerousto dogs as it is to infants.

Busy highways, driveways, parking lots,and areas where trucks and cars idle are

dangerous for dogs because of gas and die-sel exhaust. A dogs nose is much closer tothe ground and exhaust pipes than thehuman nose, so dogs are more likely to in-hale damaging particles.

Lawn treatmentsand agricultural chemi-cals are known to cause cancer in animals(see Canine Cancer Crisis, November2005). Dogs pick up pesticides, herbicides,and other chemicals through their feet and,when they sniff the ground, through their

noses. Keep your dog off the grass in chemi-cally treated neighborhoods, and exploreorganic alternatives for your own lawn andgarden.

Even household chemicals pose a threatto our canine companions.According to theU.S. Consumer Product Safety Commis-sion, more than 150 chemicals found in theaverage home are linked to birth defects,

cancer, and psychological abnormalities. Iflabels carry a keep away from children andpets warning, or if product labels suggestthey should be used only in well-ventilatedareas, look for alternatives.

Fluoride has gotten such good press overthe decades that most Americans think itsessential for healthy teeth. Its even addedto some canine toothpastes. But in manycountries, fluoride is considered a hazard-ous industrial waste, and its use in watersupplies is prohibited. In September 2005,eleven unions representing more than 7,000scientists and researchers at the EPA calledfor a national moratorium on the fluorida-tion of Americas drinking water, citingcancer risks.

A December 2005 analysis of more than22 million tap water quality tests, most ofwhich were required under the federal SafeDrinking Water Act, found that water sup-pliers across the U.S. detected 260contaminants in public tap water. Of the 141unregulated contaminants detected in wa-ter supplies between 1998 and 2003, 52 arelinked to cancer, 41 to reproductive toxic-ity, 36 to developmental toxicity, and 16 to

immune system damage. Water contami-nated with 83 agricultural pollutants,including pesticides and fertilizer ingredi-ents, flows through the taps of over 200million Americans in 41 states.

Installing a water filter or using uncon-taminated, unfluoridated bottled watersounds like a very good idea! So does avoid-ing fluoridated toothpaste.

Regarding sources of electromagneticradiation, a study published in 1995 in theAmerican Journal of Epidemiology com-pared dogs treated at a veterinary teaching

hospital for histologically confirmed lym-phoma. Electric wire codes and magneticfields were measured at the homes of 93diagnosed cases and 137 controls, and acorrelation was found between magneticfields emitted by power lines and electricalappliances and the incidence of lymphoma.Dogs living in homes with very high cur-rent codes had the highest risk, while dogsliving in homes with buriedor undergroundpower lines had a lower risk.

Immunologist and veterinarian RichardPitcairn, DVM, PhD, author ofDr. PitcairnsComplete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs

& Cats, considers all sources of radiation(including repeated diagnostic X-rays) dangerous because their effects are cumulativein the body. He recommends that dogs notbe allowed to rest near a color TV set. For

tunately, the new flat-screen TVs andcomputer monitors emit much lower levelof electromagnetic radiation than older cathode ray tube models. In general, the fewerelectrical appliances in close proximity topets, the better.

Topical pesticidesAnyone who lives where fleas, ticks, ormosquitoes are a problem knows what achallenge they can be. Unfortunately, topi-cal and systemic pest-control productscontribute to a host of health problems, in

cluding increased cancer risks.A well-balanced raw diet can help a dog

repel parasites, but sometimes the attack isoverwhelming.

I definitely prefer natural alternativesto pesticide sprays or products like Front-line, which make the entire dog toxic to bitingparasites, says Dr. Hershman. But alter-natives dont always work. One of mypatients is a raw-fedSearch and Rescue dogwho often picked up more than 200 ticks

Use topical pesticides only as often asabsolutely necessary for dogs whoregularly hike in tick-infested woods obrush, for example. Dont apply monthlyuse only as needed to protect your dog.

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on training weekends. Hes a German Shep-herd Dog, so finding and removing themall was a time-consuming, stressful chal-lenge. After his owner tried every naturalrepellent we could find, none of whichsolved the problem, he now applies K9Advantix, a systemic pesticide that repelsfleas, ticks, and mosquitoes, on a reduceddosage schedule only when needed.

When it comes to cancer prevention,she says, the less often you use conven-tional pesticides, the better. A good diet andnatural repellents are always worth tryingfirst.

Cancer preventivesSeveral holistic cancer treatments, such asthose described in What Are the Alterna-tives? (February 2006), can be used to helphealthy dogs remain cancer-free. The think-ing here is that cancer cells develop all thetime, even in healthy bodies, but they dontcreate problems until conditions encouragetheir growth. Preventive treatments disruptcancer cells before they take up residencein vulnerable parts of the body.

Henry Lai, PhD, the University of Wash-i ng t on r e se a rc h er wh o f ir s t t e st e dartemisinin (an extract ofArtemesia annua,or annual wormwood) on dogs with cancer,takes artemisinin as a preventive himself and

has tested it on laboratory animals.It is hard to recommend a protocol for

cancer prevention, he says, but, based onstudies on rats, a good dose could probablybe somewhere between 8 milligrams ofartemisinin per kilogram of body weight perday at the high end and 10 mg/kg once perweek at the low end. I take 100 mg per dayfor 10 days each month. Even though this

approach hasnt been tested yet on humansor canines, I think it makes sense.Following Dr. Lais example, a dog

weighing 60 to 75 pounds could take 50 mgartemisinin for10 days each month, and theamount could be increased or decreased asneeded for larger and smaller dogs.

The antioxidant Protocel, also discussedin last months article, can be used in a simi-lar way.

According to Illinois veterinarian DanKing, DVM, This should be effective be-cause Protocel works on early cancer cellsas an antimetastatic. That is, it deals withindividual cells and prevents them fromspreading and growing. Because it worksslowly, I would use Protocel on a preven-tive maintenance schedule of teaspoontwice per day for a dog weighing 50 to 75pounds for three months on and six monthsoff. Small dogs could take 1/8 teaspoon twiceper day for the same length of time.

Medicinal herbsAsk a dozen experts about their favoriteherbs for cancer prevention and youll gen-erate a list too long to publish here. But afewherbalproducts areso effective that theyare recommended by almost everyone.

Many mushrooms have anti-tumor andimmune-stimulating activity, says CarolFalck, VMD, of Pompano Beach, Florida.

They have been used medicinally for thou-sands of years in China and Japan, and theywork very well for dogs.

Dr. Falck often uses Myco-Immune byThorne Research, which is a liquid extractof seven medicinal mushrooms, includingcordyceps, reishi, shiitake, maitake, andturkey tail. Thiscombination stimulates theimmune system in several ways, helping itresist the growth of cancer.

She also recommends a green tea extract(G.T.-Ex by Thorne Research) becausegreen tea enhances cellular immune func-tion, increasesnatural killer cell activity, andmay inhibit some cancer cell lines.

Another favorite supplement for dogs atrisk of cancer is curcumin, says Dr. Falck.Curcumin is the yellow pigment in tur-meric, the spice that gives curry i tsdistinctive color. Both turmeric andcurcumin have been shown to inhibit tumorgrowth. I also like astragalus, an herb with

Tap water information from Environmental Working Group.

ewg.org/tapwater/findings.php.

Fluoride Action Network, fluoridealert.org

Bioprin, Florenz, Liver Terrain from Marina Zacharias Natural Rearing.

naturalrearing.com, (541) 899-2080

Myco-Immune, from Modern Herbalist.

modernherbalist.com, (831) 624-2773

G.T.-Ex, from Thorne Research, Inc. thorne.com, (208) 263-1337

Japanese salad press (for making lacto-fermented vegetables).

Gold Mine Natural Food. goldminenaturalfood.com, (800) 475-FOOD

VETERINARIANS AND RESEARCHERS QUOTED IN THIS ARTICLEStephen Blake, DVM, thepetwhisperer.com

Carol Falck, VMD, friendshipvet.com

Bruce Fife, ND, piccadillybooks.com

Stacey Hershman, DVM, naturalvetforpets.com

Daniel King, DVM, (217) 485-7387

Henry Lai, PhD, [email protected]

Mary Straus, dogaware.com

BOOKSAll You Ever Wanted to Know about Herbs for Pets, by Mary Wulff-

Tilford and Gregory Tilford. Bow-Tie Press, 1999

Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, by Juliette de Bairacli

Levy. Sixth edition, Faber & Faber, 1991

Dr. Pitcairns Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, by

Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, and Susan Hubble Pitcairn. Third edi-

tion, Rodale, 2005

Health and Light: The Extraordinary Study That Shows How Light Af-

fects Your Health and Emotional Well-Being, by John N. Ott. Ariel Press,

1976

Holistic Aromatherapy for Pets, by Kristen

Leigh Bell. Findhorn Press, 2002

Work Wonders: Feed Your Dog Raw Meaty

Bones, by Tom Lonsdale. Revetco, 2005

See Spot Live Longer, by Beth Taylor and

Steve Brown. Creekobear Press, 2004

PRODUCTS MENTIONEDIN THIS ARTICLEAstragalus for Animals, Buck Mountain Bo-

tanicals. buckmountainbotanicals.com

Cancer Prevention Resources

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strong immune-stimulating properties.I use several Chinese herbal formulascontaining astragalus,depending on thepatient, including Astragalus for Ani-mals by Buck Mountain Botanicals.

Garlic is well known and often usedfor its cancer-inhibiting properties.Small amounts of fresh minced garlicor aged garlic extract can be added to

any dogs dinner. Garlic is an ingredi-ent in Herbal Compounds tabletscreated by Juliette de Bairacli Levy,whose Natural Rearing philosophy pio-neered home-prepared diets andalternative medicine for animals.

This formula is very antiseptic,says Natural Rearing advocate MarinaZacharias, who imports the productfrom England. It definitely helps theimmune system.

For patients at high risk, Zachariaslikes a Chinese formula called Bioprinfor its antiviral, antibacterial, antifun-gal, and anti-tumor properties. I alsouse a probiotic called Florenz and, overthe animals life span, a form of liversupport given to match their needs, suchas homeopathic Liver Terrain.

Zacharias says she hasseen good resultsfrom prevention efforts taken to protect in-dividual dogs in high-risk families. Ofcourse, there is no empirical evidence to saythat these measures prevented cancer, butwhen we see a good-quality, healthy life,its evidence that the efforts are warranted.We allhave to diefrom something, but when

we see cancer in a naturally raised dog, itsusually when the dog is older, at the end ofits natural lifespan.

Closely related to herbal medicine isaromatherapy. San Diego holistic veterinar-ian Stephen Blake recommends massagingthe paw pads of at-risk dogs once or twiceper day with a drop of blended frankincense,sandalwood, and Douglas fir essential oils.For best results, use organic or wildcraftedoils from reputable distributors as describedin Essential Information (January 2005).These essential oils are great for detoxifi-

cation and for supporting the immunesystem, he says.

ExerciseAlthough few of us appreciate the impor-tant role it plays, the lymph system is a keyfactor in cancer prevention. Lymph is a clearfluid, similar to blood but lacking red bloodcells. It contains the immune systems lym-phocytes (T-cells and B-cells) and circulatesthrough channels that carry waste to the

lymph nodes, filtering bacteria and othertoxins.

The more lymph circulation is impaired,the less efficiently the body removes toxinsand the more favorable conditions are forthe growth of cancer. Lymph circulationimproves with active exercise and deep, dia-phragmatic breathing. Gentle to vigorous

brushing that moves from the feet to theheart is a simple addition to daily groom-ing that also stimulates lymph circulation.

Exercise is so important, says Dr.Falck. Exercise stimulates the immune sys-tem and releases endorphins, and an addedbenefit of consistent exercise is increasinggastrointestinal motility, which helps nor-malize stools and eliminate toxins from thebody. It also facilitates weight management,which is important because obesity is a riskfactor for some types of cancer.

MalilluminationYou probably havent thought about lightas a cancer preventive, but it may well be.Not just any light, though. Unfiltered natu-ral light, Mother Natures full-spectrumlight, activates the hypothalamus and keepsthe entire endocrine system balanced.

When photobiologist and time-lapsephotography pioneer John Ott began to pho-tograph living plants, he discovered thatdepriving them of unfiltered natural light

A long-time contributor to WDJ and autho

of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet CareNatural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, andother books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York

with her husband, a Lab, and a tabby cat.

interfered with their normal growth andreproduction.

He soon learned that the health offish, birds, reptiles, and other animals(including humans) is adversely af-fected by insufficient light and by thewrong kind of light, especially fluoresc e nt l i gh t . Ot t c o in e d t h e t e rmmalillumination to describe the phe

nomenon, which is now known tosuppress immune function and contribute to skin damage, cancer, and otheproblems.

Light enters the eyes not only to facilitate vision but also to activate thehypothalamus. This region of the brainin turn, controls the nervous and endocrine systems, which regulate functionthroughout the body.

Exposure to natural light, preferablyfor several hours daily, is necessary foyour dogs health. A shady screenedporch, the shelter of a tree, even an openwindow or doorway can give the dogsbody what it needs. Some plastics allow the transmission of full-spectrumnatural light, but glass windows, windshields, and sunglasses (which we hope

your dog doesnt wear) do not.

Emotional well-beingFor many healthcare experts, emotionawell-being is as important to cancer prevention as diet and exercise.

I believe strongly that emotions arelinked to general health via the immune sys

tem, says Dr. Falck. We can support ourpets emotionally by encouraging social interaction with people and other animals, byproviding a safe and loving environmenwith balanced opportunities for play andrest, and by minimizing stress.

Dr. Blake strongly stresses the importance of positive thinking.

Never talk to an animal as though heor she is a tumor instead of a spiritual be-ing, he says. Negative thoughts generatenegative energy, which feeds the disease andweakens the patients vital force. No mat-

ter how serious the risk of cancer, itsimportant to picture your dog as well andhappy, not sick, and to engage him or her inmeaningful conversation and meaningfuactivities every day.

All dogs can benefit from access to the full-spectrum light found outdoors, which activatesthe hypothalamus and keeps the endocrinesystem balanced.

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s It can be a life-saving behavior. For ex-ample, a good stay can prevent a dog fromracing into the street.

The many faces of stayWhat exactly is a stay? It means differentthings to different people. In fact, there aremany versions of stay. Youll need toidentify the different ways you will usestayand train for each.

Stay can apply to different positions orplaces. For example, you may have a sit/stay, a down/stay, and a stand/stay. You mayalso teach your dog to go to his bed andstay, or to stay in a certain spot while youprepare his food.

Stay can also apply to a mind-set. Manypeople use stay to mean, Relax and hangout. Others such as agility competitors mayuse stay to mean, Dont move, but be alertfor the next cue.

Here are some common stay variations:

s The basic stay: I teach the basic stayas the dog remaining in position and place(sit, down, or stand) until released. For ex-ample, when asked to sit or sit/stay, the dog

BY MARDI RICH MOND

Way to Stay!

I

Produce a dependable stay in your dog, no matter what the distraction.

remember a day several years ago whenI put my dogs stay to the test.

We were on our usual morningneighborhood walk. All of a sudden,three children on bikes sped past us on

the sidewalk, racing each other on the wayto school. The faster and older childrenraced around the corner, leaving the youngerbicyclist in their dust. Just then, the youngbiker skidded to the side and landed hardon the concrete about 20 feet in front of me.

The boy started crying. I quickly toldmy dogs to down and stay, and raced up tothe child to see if he needed help.

I was not sure what my dogs would ac-tually do. Would they stay as we had trainedand practiced? Would they follow me downthe street to see the crying boy? Would theyventure into the neighbors yard after arogue cat?All seemed very possible afterall, they were rowdy young dogs and thestay behavior,while practiced regularly, hadnever been really put to the test.

But they did stay for several minutes,

just as wed practiced over and over. I haveto admit that I was a little more than sur-

prised and impressed! (By the way, the boywas fine. His hands and knees were slightlyskinned, but after a few short minutes, he

hopped back on his bike and raced off toschool.)

That day taught me what an importantfoundation behavior stay can be. Obviously,in a minor emergency, a stay is extremelyhelpful. But a solid stay can make a differ-ence in other facets of life, too:

s Stay is a very useful behavior in every-daysituations,like when youre walking andneed to tie your shoe, or if at a pet supplystore and need to sign a charge slip.

s Stay helps develop your dogs self-control and helps a dog settleduring excitingtimes such as when you are fixing dinner orwhen you are gathering the leash and treatsfor a walk.

s Stay can be useful at the vet and duringgrooming.

s It is an essential behavior for dog sportssuch as competitive obedience and agility.

TRAINING

TM

s



Make stay a rewarding

exercise for your dog, not an

endurance contest.

Practice, practice, practice! Keep

the behavior fresh in your dogs

mind and rewarding! by

using stay at least once daily.

Dont correct your dog when he

doesnt hold the stay. Lower

the criteria until he is more

reliably successful before you

up the ante again.

s

s

You may not need to instill a formal, show-ring stay in your dog, but the ability toexpect your dog to reliably stay in one place while you attend to something else isincredibly useful.

TRAINING

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will put his bottom on the ground and re-main there until I say Okay.

s Wait: While stay is a behavior that asksthe dog not to move out of position or place,wait is a more casual version that can meanhang out patiently for a moment or two,but stay alert because your turn is coming.I use wait at doorways, for example.

s Gorelax orgo to bed: This type of stayis less about position and more about placeand mind-set. Teach the dog to go to his orher bed or other place and hang out there.This can be taught with or without a dis-tinct release.

s Dog sport stay: For those who playagility or obedience, a ritualized stay be-havior is part of both sports. Using a specificcue, signal, or body language to initiate thestay and a specific and unique release cuecan aid in a reliable dog sport stay.

Getting a reliable stay can be a chal-lenge, and one of the reasons is that thevariations are often taught in a blur thedog is sometimes asked to stay in one posi-tion, sometimes asked to stay in one place,sometimes allowed to leave the position orplace without the release, sometimes re-quired to stay in the position until therelease, sometimes released to a verbalcue,sometimes released to a hand signal . . . nowonder the dog becomes confused!

Before you start training the stay, de-

velop a distinct picture in your mind of the

behavior you are training. For the rest ofthis article, Ill use stay for the basic staydescribed above: When youare asking yourdog to put her body in a certain position(sit, down, stand) and stay in place until sheis formally released.

The controversial cueWhen you ask a dog for a stationary behav-

ior (like sit, down, or stand) the expectationis that the dog will stay in that position un-til released. Essentially, the sit cue means,Sit and stay there. So do you need or usea separate stay cue?

While it may seem unnecessary, havinga distinct cue for stay can be advantageousin certain situations:

s If you have trained different types ofstays, using a distinct cue for each can helpyour dog understand what is expected.

s Using a stay cue or word can act as aback up or reassurance for your dog in dif-ficult or emergency situations. For exampleit can mean, Keep on sitting. You are do-ing great.

s If you use the word stay with severalpositions (sit, down, and stand, for ex-ample), you may be able to easily transferit to new or unique positions. For example,if the vet needs your dog to lie on his side,you can gently turn him to the side and thengive the stay cue to help him know thatyou would like him to remain in that posi-

tion while the vet pokes and prods.

s If you are not as consistent as you shouldbe about using a distinct release from a sior down, having a stay cue can be helpfulclarification for you and your dog.

Consider getting the bestof both worldsTeach your dog that sit, down, and standmean hang out in that position until you arereleased, and later, once the dog knows the

behavior, you can add in a secondary cueor hand signal for stay.

Training the stayWhen you first teach your dog to sit, youmark her performance of the desired be-havior with a click! of a clicker or word suchas Yes! and give her a treat the momenher bottom hits the ground. Most dogs willquickly place their bottoms on the groundand then pop up the minute they hear theclick! Heres how you move from a brief si(or down or stand) to a solid sit/stay:

1. When you ask your dog to sit, graduallyextend the time between thedog placing hibottom on the ground and when you clickor yes. For example, the dog sits and youcount a half a second, then click or yesand treat; the dog sits, you count one sec-ond, then click and treat; the dog sits, youcount two seconds then click and treat.Workup to 10 seconds.

2. At this point, alternate longer and shortertimes between treating. For example clickor yes and treat for 10 seconds, 3 sec-

onds, 7 seconds, etc.

It is a good idea to use different cues fordistinct staybehaviorssuch as Go lie down and relax on your bed while Im cookingdinner and Remain in the sitting positionuntil I release you.

Once your dog understands that there is a difference betweenSit and Sit in the same place until I release you that isStay you can add a separate cue for the Stay.

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3. If your dog pops up, dont stress! In theprocess of learning to stay in position, yourdog may experiment a little. He may popout of the position, come up to you, andwonder if its treat time. With most begin-ning behaviors, like sit, down, or come, thedog gets the reward when he is near you orwhen he comes up to you. So it is under-standable that he might give that a try while

he is learning to stay.What can you do? Simply ask your dogto try again and make your criteria easier!This is critical. If your dog breaks the staytwice in a row, or if you are getting fewerthan four out of five correct responses, makeit easier and build up slower.

In addition, be patient anddont use ver-bal scolding or corrections. Correcting adog for leaving a stay may backfire, mak-ing him insecure and less likely to succeedthe next time.

When he can successfully hold the sit atleast four out of five times in a training ses-sion, then you can make ita little harder byextending the time you ask him to stay. Overthe course of several training sessions,gradually increase the time until your dogcan comfortably hold the sit for30 seconds.

4. Dont worry if your dog pops up afterthe click. If you would like your dog to stayuntil you give a distinct release, try this:

Click and immediately place the treatrightunderthe dogs nose so that he doesntneed to get up to eat the treat. This place-ment of the treat will reinforce the position.

In fact, if you follow the click with severaltreats in a row, your dog will learn to stay inposition to see what is coming next! Fol-low the click and treat with a distinct releasesuch as Okay!

5. At thispoint, you can alsoadd ina handsignal or verbal cue for stay.Ask your dogto sit, say stay or give your hand signal,and continue practicing as noted above.

The three DsWhen training the stay, it can be very help-

ful to work on the three Ds: duration,distance, and distractions separately. Byconsciously building the three Ds into yourtraining, your dogs stay will become in-creasingly reliable.

Duration is simply how long your dogis doing the behavior. Youve already beenworking on teaching your dog to hold thesit/stay for 30-second durations. Thinkabout how long you would ideally like yourdog to hold a stay. For a sit position, I sug-

Here are a few fun, everyday exercises to strengthen your dogs stay.

s Ask your dog to sit or down and stay while you prepare your dogs dinner.Release and reward with his meal.

s When you play tug with your dog, periodically stop the action and ask your dog

to sit or down. Gradually build up to longer sit/stays or down/stays, with you mov-ing away from or walking around your dog before resuming the game.

s Ask your dog to sit or down and wait before you toss the ball. As with the tuggame, build up to longer stays before releasing.At first, release the dog with Okay!and then toss the ball as the reward. Later, as a more advanced exercise, practicehaving your dog stay while you toss the ball, release him to retrieve after the ballhas landed.

s Practice wait or stay at the doorways each time you leave the house or let yourdogs out of the car.

s Practice stay once or twice on daily walks.

s Practice longer down/stays or go to bed while you watch TV in the evenings.

Practicing Stay in Everyday Life

gest one to three minutes; for a down posi-tion, 2 to 5 minutes.

Note: Some people like to train their

dogs to hold a down for up to 30 minutes.I personally believe this is too long to com-fortably be in one position without moving.If you would like your dog to be able tostay for 15, 20, or 30 minutes, considerteaching him to go to bed, where he canstay in a place for a longer period of time,but move his body position for comfort!

Distance refers to both how far awayyou are from your dog when he is staying.Along with training your dog to stay while

you move away, teach your dog to under-stand that stay means to stay even whenyourbody is in a different position, such as if

you turn away, kneel down, or step to theside.When your dog can hold the sit for 10

to 30 seconds, start varying your distancefrom him and body position. Take a half stepback, turn your body to the side, step slightlyto your dogs side, move your head, loweryour body, etc. As your dog becomes moreconfident, you can gradually increase thedistance.At advanced levels, you can teachyour dog to stay while you step out of sight.

Practice stay on walks by having your dogs take turns staying while you snapa leash on oroff of the other. If you can, in a safe environment for off-leash play,occasionally release your dogs for a fun, social romp as the reward for staying.

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Copyright 2006, Belvoir Media Group, LLC THE WHOLE DOG JOURNAL | 1

In the early stages of training, work ondistance and duration separately. For ex-ample, if you are training forduration, workon increasing the time but keep the distanceand your body position within your dogscomfort level. If you are working on dis-tance, move away from your dog, but onlystay at a distance for a few seconds beforereturning.As your dogs skill increases, you

can combine the two with ease.Note: To prevent your dogs anticipa-tion of the release (and his consequentlybreaking the stay and running to you for atreat) go back to your dog and click andtreat while he is still in the position.

Distraction training is equally impor-tant. Once your dog has the basics of sit/stay, begin training in different locations.Each location has different distractions, soyou will need to lower your criteria.

For example, if your dog can sit/stay fortwo minutes in your living room, expect to

If you live with two or more dogs, you know that it can be hardto get all of the dogs to stay at once. These tips will help.

s Work with each dog individually before trying to train themin a group.

s Once each of the dogs knows the beginning of stay, you canstart working all your dogs together at that beginning level.

s Keep building their skill levels individually, and then add-

ing on to their group skills.

s If one dog breaks the stay, immediately reward those whohave remained in the stay to reinforce their appropriate behav-ior. Then ask the dog who got up to return to the stay, and makeit easier so that he or she can be successful, too.

s If all the dogs break the stay, make the exercise easier. De-crease the distractions or go back to basics with the individuals.

Wait and Stay in the Multidog Household

s Remember that as a group, they may not be able to work atthe same level as they can individually, at least not at first.

s Have a group release word such as Okay! andindividualreleases. You can use the dogs name for the individual release,a hand signal such as a finger point, or choose a unique word foreach dog.

Practice group stays in a low-distraction environment at first,such a a small, fenced yard or your living room. It may help tohave all the dogs in the same stance: stand, sit, or down.

If one of the dogs breaks the stay, immediately reward theother dogs. Then, ask the offender to return and stay, andmake it easier for him to succeed.

begin with just three or four seconds in anew location. Start with easy locations, suchas your kitchen, living room, and backyard.As your dogs ability to succeed improves,practice on your daily walks and otherplaces you visit frequently.

At first, add only distractions you cancontrol, so you can stop the distraction if itis setting your dog up to fail. Start small, by

waving your arms or jumping up and down,for example, and build slowly.Eventually, you may need to practice

with the things that tend to distract your dogmost, such as people walking near your dog,other dogs moving by, or a ball bouncingacross theground.Again, for thebest chanceof success, set up situations in which youcan control the distractions until your dogconsistently succeeds at that level. Withenough practice, your dog will learn to stayeven in the face of the toughest real-worlddistractions.

The secrets of successThe secrets to a successful and reliable stayBe realistic! Be consistent!

Work with your dogs stay training at alevel he or she canrealistically handle. Pushing your dog past his abilities (so that hebreaks the stay) is the fastest way for thebehavior to fall apart. The more this hap-pens, the harder it will be for your dog tohave the confidence needed for a reliablestay. So if your dog breaks his stay, make ieasier and build on successes!

Be very consistent when you are train-ing the stay. If your dog is having troublewith the training, make it easier and moveforward more gradually. For obvious rea-sons, calm, confident dogs may progressmore quickly. But with patience and con-sistency, even high energy and insecuredogcan develop a rock-solid stay!

Mardi Richmond,MA, CPDT, isa writerand

trainer living in Santa Cruz, California with

her partner and two wonderful dogs. Sheis the coauthor ofRuffing It: The CompleteGuide to Camping with Dogs and the author of numerous other articles on training

and behavior.

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BY MARY STRAUS

Heartworm: Dont Take It Lightly

P

Conventional preventatives are still the best way to protect your dog.

eople have learned of the benefits ofa natural diet and limited vaccina-tions, and have seen the healthimprovements in their dogs fromthese changes. Now, many want to

know if they can discontinue administeringheartworm preventatives to their dogs, orwhether those can be replaced by naturaloptions.

Heartworm preventatives can cause seri-ous side effects in some dogs, includingdepression, lethargy, vomiting, anorexia,diarrhea, dilation of the pupil, loss ofbalance, staggering, convulsions, and hy-persalivation. Some dogs are especiallyprone to side effects from ivermectin, themain ingredient in one of the most widelyused heartworm preventatives. Also, someof the preventatives are combined withdrugs aimed at killing other pests such asfleas, mites, roundworms, and hookworms.

On the other hand, heartworm can be adevastating disease. Dogs with moderate orsevere infestations display a chronic cough

and cant engage in much activity, as wormschoke their heart and major blood vessels,reducing their blood (and thus oxygen) sup-ply. The disease often leaves its victims

incapacitated, incapable of doing muchmore than a slow walk without gasping forair, and kills many dogs. Even the treatmentfor heartworm disease can be deadly, re-gardless of which method is used, so it isimportant to understand the risks that youtake if you choose not to give your dogheartworm preventative.

In fact, most (certainly not all) holisticveterinarians consider the use of pharma-ceutical preventatives to be less harmfulthan a heartworm infection.

Some argue, but . . .As the co-moderator of an e-mail list on doghealth and nutrition, I frequently see peopleallege that as long as you have a healthydog, feed a raw diet, and do not over-vaccinate, your dog will not getheartworms.If only this were true! These measures mayhelp to some degree, but they are notfoolproof. The only way to know for surethat your dog is protected is to giveheartworm preventatives.

Christie Keith, who lives in an area ofNorthern California where heartworm isrelatively uncommon and has raised Scot-tish Deerhounds naturally for over 19 years,

learned this the worst way.I went 16 years not using

any form of allopathic preven-tativeon mydogs.At the end ofthat 16-year period, on routinetesting, I found that two of mydogs were heartworm-positive,says Keith. One of the positivedogs was Raven, a Deerhound I

bought from another breeder.She came to me at 17 weekswith bad ear infections and se-vere allergies, and no one couldargue that Raven was healthy orhad a normal immune system.

In contrast, my dog Bran

MEDICINE

was a third-generation, naturally reared dogof my own breeding. He was unvaccinatedother than minimally forrabies. He was raw-fed. His mother and her mother wereraw-fed and unvaccinated other than mini-mally for rabies. He was, by any definitionavailable, extremely healthy and robust. Hehad never been sick a day in his life.

Christie successfully treated both herdogs, though Raven almost died of a pul-monary embolism during treatment. Branbecame heartworm-free after months of us-ing the slow kill method of heartworm

treatment, with no sign of any adverse ef-fects. Unfortunately, Bran died of acuterenal failure not long after that. Necropsyresults were inconclusive, showing thatBran had glomerulonephritis, but not why.

In her research to try to find the causeof her dogs death, Christie discovered thatglomerulonephritis is a potential side effectof heartworm infection. Although she andher vets eventually came to the conclusionthat Brans renal failure was causedby Lyme

TM

s



Limit the months that you give

your dog heartworm

preventatives based on the

environmental temperatures in

your area.

Use a decreased dosage of

Interceptor if youre not

concerned about protecting

against intestinal parasites.

Have your dog tested for

multidrug sensitivity if he

belongs to any of the breeds

commonly affected by this

condition.

MEDICINE

s

s

Scottish Deerhounds Raven (above) and Bran (left) were raw-fed, minimally vaccinated, and holistically raised in a part ofCalifornia where a low prevalence of heartworm is reported,but both became infected with the parasites.

COURTESY

OFGINA

SPADAFORI

COURTESY

OFCHRISTIE

KEITH

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nephritis rather than heartworm disease, itwas disturbing to realize that heartwormscan affect more than the heart and lungs.

I have no intention of ever livingthrough what I lived through with Ravenand Bran. I cant keep silent when I seepeople starting to believe that healthy ani-

mals dont get heartworm and that we canblithely forgo using preventatives if wedont overvaccinate and feed raw. Its justnot so. And its not realistic to rely on thehealth and natural disease resistance of ourdogs to protect them from a threat that theyare exposed to frequently, as is the case inheartworm-endemic areas.

No creature is in a static state of health24 hours a day, 7 days a week. If our dogsare frequently exposed to an infectious para-site, eventually they may well succumb toit,no matterhow healthy they arenormally.

Alternative preventatives?Some holistic practitioners recommendvarious herbal or homeopathic preparationsfor heartworm prevention, and anecdotalevidence from some dog owners can befound on many discussion lists devoted tonatural dog care. However, consumersshould be aware that none of these alterna-tives have been studied for safety orefficacy, nor are there any studies indicat-

ing that they are effective at protectingagainst heartworm infection. In addition,some herbaldewormers,such as wormwoodand black walnut, are potentially toxic whenused at dosage levels needed to control in-testinal parasites.

Some homeopathic practitioners advo-

cate the use of homeopathic nosodes forheartworm prevention. Again, there are nostudies indicating that they are effective. Inhis book, Homeopathic Care for Cats andDogs, Don Hamilton, DVM, says, I doknow of some cases where the nosode didnot protect, however. I believe it does offersome protection, though it may be incom-plete. . . . If you decide to try the nosode,you must understand that its effectivenessis currently unknown.

What is known, is that conventionalheartworm preventatives are the best form

of protection currently available. Fortu-nately for those of us who worry about theside effects of using the conventional drugpreventatives, there are numerous ways youcanminimize their useand still protectyourdog. Ill discuss these methods after intro-ducing the most common preventatives.

Conventional preventativesThe two most common (and generally con-sidered safe) heartworm preventative

ingredients used today are ivermectin (usedin Heartgard by Merial, and other prod-ucts) and milbemycin oxime (used inInterceptor by Novartis).

There is also an older, daily heartwormpreventative available, diethylcarbam-azine or DEC. For many years, this drug wa

available from Pfizer as Filaribits.Though Filaribits has been discontinuedyou can still find generic versions of DEC

DEC is very safe in terms of side effectsbut can be life-threatening if given to aheartworm-infected dog with circulatingmicrofilariae, due to the risk of a rapid die-off of the microfilariae and resultinganaphylactic reaction. Also,missing just oneor two days of medication can allow yourdog to become infected. If you use DEC, iis essential that you test for heartwormsbefore starting this drug, and every six

months while using it. (Avoid Filaribits Pluswhich has oxybendazole added to controintestinal parasites and has been known tocause liver damage.)

There are other heartworm products thainclude drugs for other purposes. Heartgard Plus adds pyrantel to control intestinaparasites, including roundworms and hookworms. Adult dogs rarely have problemswith roundworms, but if your yard hasbeeninfested with hookworms, this produc

Facts About Heartworm DiseaseWHAT IT ISHeartworm disease is caused by an infestation

of a parasite, Dirofilaria immitis, commonly called

heartworm, with an elaborate life cycle. It starts

in an infected animal; more than 30 species, in-

cluding dogs and wild animals such as coyotes,

foxes, and ferrets act as reservoir species. Adult

worms, residing in the host animals heart, lungs,

and associated blood vessels, mate and the fe-males release their young (called microfilariae).

These circulate in the host animals blood for up

to two years. They develop into their next stage

of life, L1 (for first larval stage) only if ingested by

a mosquito during a mosquitos blood meal.

It takes the L1 larvae 8 to 28 days, depending

on environmental temperatures, to develop into

their third stage (L3), when they migrate from the mosquitos stomach

to its mouth. The L3 larvae enter their next host through the mosquitos

next bite.

As many as 10 to 12 L3 larvae can be transmitted to a dog in a

single mosquito bite. The L3 larvae molt and migrate through the dogs

tissues in search of major veins, which they infiltrate and use as a path

to reach the heart. It takes them about 90 to 100 days to develop into

L5, the form that breaches the circulatory system. Only ivermectin

affects them (and not all of them) once they have reached the L5 formor beyond. However, all the drugs affect the L3 and L4 forms, which is

why its important to administer a preventative drug at least every 45

days during heartworm season. (Note: DEC must be given every dayduring heartworm season.)

If no preventatives are used, the larvae continue to develop to sexual

maturity. If both sexes are present, they can mate and produce

microfilariae about six to seven months after the infective mosquito

bite that put them in the dog. Adult heartworms can live three to five

years, with males attaining a length of 17 cm (about 6 inches) and

females a whopping 27 cm (more than 10 inches).

SYMPTOMS OF I NFECTIONMild disease: Cough

Moderate disease: Cough, exercise intolerance, abnormal lung sounds

Severe disease: Cough, exercise intolerance, difficulty breathing,abnormal lung sounds, enlargement of the liver, temporary loss of

consciousness due to poor blood flow to the brain, fluid accumulation

in the abdominal cavity, abnormal heart sounds, death

1: Adult worms in aninfected animal mate

and producemicrofilariae

2: Microfilariae are

consumed in blood by mosquito;larvae develop in mosquito

3: Infected mosquito

bites dog; transmits

larvae throughbite

4: Larvae migrate through dogs tissues to

circulatory system and to the heart

5: Larvae reachadulthood and

take up residence in

dogs heart, lungs, andassociated blood vessels.

They mate and produce

microfilariae, starting cycle

all over again. Adult wormsmay live for 3-5 years.

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might be good to use until the hookwormshave been eliminated.

Sentinel is a combination of the prod-ucts Interceptor and Program (lufenuron).Lufenuron is a medication that acts to pre-vent fleas from reproducing; its not apesticide and does not kill fleas or keep themfrom biting your dog. This may be helpfulfor a short time if you have a flea infesta-

tion, and employ several nontoxic methodsto get the flea problem under control, suchas diatomaceous earth to treatthe houseandnematodes to treat the yard.

Im less enthusiastic about selamectin(found in Revolution by Pfizer), a more re-cent entry to the market. Selamectin is atopical product that is also indicated forfleas, one kind of tick, ear mites, and themites that cause sarcoptic mange.While thismay well be great if your dog hadmange,fleas, ticks, and ear mites, I strongly preferdrugs with a minimal and targeted actionover ones with broad-spectrum activity.

The injectable product moxidectin(ProHeart 6 by Fort Dodge)has been with-drawn from the U.S. market due tonumerous reports of adverse effects, includ-ing death. I do not recommend the use ofinjectable heartworm preventatives at all,as there is no way to remove them from yourdogs system if there is a bad reaction, andthe time release drug will continue to affectyour dog for months.

Temperature and timingSo, how can you reduce your dogs expo-

sure to conventional heartworm preventa-tive drugs, without decreasinghis protectionfrom the nasty parasite?

First, it is not necessary to give heart-worm preventatives year-round in mostparts of the country. Heartworm develop-ment in the mosquito is dependent uponenvironmental temperatures. Heartwormlarvae cannot develop to the stage neededto infect dogs until temperatures have beenover 57 degrees Fahrenheit (14 degreesCentigrade), day and night, for at least oneto two weeks. The amount of time it takes

will vary depending on how warm it is; thewarmer the temperatures, the faster theheartworm larvae develop.

If temperatures drop below that point atany time during the cycle, development maybe prevented, but I wouldnt rely on this.Temperatures can vary according to wherethe mosquito lives, and may be warmer un-der the eaves of houses or in other protectedareas than the general ambient temperature.

Heartworm preventatives work by kill-

ing heartworm larvae that have already in-fected the dog, but before they can matureinto adult worms that cause damage. Whenyou give your dog heartworm preventative,you arekilling any larvae that have infectedyour dog within the last one to two months.

Any larvae that have been in your doglonger than 60 days are more likely to sur-vive the treatment and go on to mature intoadult worms.

Also, your dogmay become infected theday after you give heartworm preventative;the drugs do not provide any future protec-tion at all.

If your goal is to provide full protectionfor your dog with minimal drug adminis-tration, youll have to monitor the tempera-tures in your area. Mosquitoes may becapable of transmitting heartworm larvae to

your dog around two weeks after your lo-cal temperature has stayed above 57 degreesFahrenheit day and night.

Give the seasons first dose of preven-tative four to six weeks after that to destroyany larvae that infected your dog during thattime. Thus, the first dose should be givensix to eight weeks after daytime and night-time temperatures first exceed 57F.Continue to give the preventative every fourto six weeks, with the last dose given aftertemperatures drop below that level on aregular basis.

For some parts of the country, this canmean giving preventatives only betweenJuly and October, while in others, wheretemperatures remain mild all year, they mayhave to be given year-round.

If you do not give your dog heartwormpreventatives (because the area you live inis very low risk or because the temperaturesare not right for heartworms to develop),and then take your dog to an area whereheartworm is a problem, you must treathim

with heartworm preventative upon your re-turn to protect him.

Dosage amountsWith at least one drug, you can give yourdog less than the recommended dosage of

preventative, without compromising safety.Milbemycin oxime, the active ingredi-

ent in Interceptor, has been approved by theFDA at one-fifth the regular dosage to killheartworms only, without controlling intes-tinal parasites, including roundworms,whipworms, and hookworms. Novartis hasa product, SafeHeart, with this lowereddosage of milbemycin, but has not yet mar-keted it. (You can read the FDA approvalsshowing that milbemycin oxime will con-trol heartworm at one-fifth the dosage foundin Interceptor on the FDAs Web site; see

Resources, page 24).The actual recommended dosage of

milbemycin oxime for heartworm preven-tion only is 0.05 mg per pound of bodyweight (0.1 mg per kg). Contrast this withthe recommended dosage of Interceptor forcontrol of heartworm and intestinal para-sites: 0.23 mg milbemycin oxime per pound(0.5 mg/kg) of body weight. Heartworm canbe prevented at a much lower dose than thatneeded to control intestinal parasites.

SafeHeart contains 2.3 mg of milbe-mycin oxime for dogs from 2 to 50 pounds,

and 5.75 mg for dogs 50 to 125 pounds.Interceptor contains 2.3 mg for dogs up to10 pounds, and 5.75 mg for dogs 11 to 25pounds. So if your dog weighs more than50 pounds, you can give the Interceptor fordogs 11 to 25 pounds; otherwise you canuse the one for dogs up to 10 pounds.

Frequency of preventativesIt may not be necessary to give heartwormpreventatives every month. The monthly

Ivermectin has a bad reputation among some dog owners, but not all dog ownersneed to worry unduly about the drugs toxicity. Ivermectin toxicity is genetic, andthere is now a test available to determine whether a dog is sensitive to ivermectin

and other drugs. (Dogs with ivermectin toxicity may alsobe sensitive to loperamide [Imodium], cyclosporin[Atopica], acepromazine, digoxin, butorphanol

[Torbutrol/Torbugesic], and several chemotherapy drugs.

Breeds known to be affected include Collies, Austra-lian Shepherds, Shelties, Border Collies, Old English

Sheepdogs, English Shepherds, McNabs, Long Haired Whip-pets, and Silken Windhounds. To learn more about this test,see the following Web site on multidrug sensitivities:www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-VCPL/

Ivermectin Toxicity

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dosage schedule was devised to make it easyfor people to remember when to administerthe drugs, and to ensure that dogs wouldstill be protected if a dose were somehownot swallowed or later vomited before be-ing absorbed.

The FDA approvals cite studies show-ing that Heartgard, Interceptor, andRevolution provide protection beyond 30

days. If you are very good about remem-bering to give medications, and you canwatch your dog after administering the pillto besure thatit isnot spitout orlater vom-ited, it may be safe to use heartwormpreventatives less frequently than every 30days. Dosing your dog every 45 days is aconservative way to safely stretch yourdogs dosage schedule.

The drug manufacturers pre-approvaltests indicate that even longer dosing sched-ules may convey protection from heartworm but I wouldnt stake my dogswell-being

on dosage schedules extending beyond asomewhat arbitrary 45 days.

The original FDA approval for Heartgardstates, The target dose of 6 mcg per kilo-gram of bodyweight was selected from ti-tration study 10855 as the lowest doseproviding 100 percent protection when thedosing interval was extended to 60 days tosimulate a missed-dose circumstance.

The original FDA approval for Intercep-tor states, Complete (100 percent) protec-tion was achieved in dogs treated at 30 dayspost-infection, with 95 percent protectionat 60 and 90 days. This does not apply toSafeHeart, which was tested only at a 30-day dosing interval.

The original FDA approval for Revolu-tion states, Selamectin applied topically asa single dose of 3 or 6 mg/kg was 100 per-cent effective in preventing the maturationof heartworms in dogs following inocula-tion with infective D. immitis larvae 30 or

45 days priorto treatment, and6 mg/kg [therecommended dosage amount] was 100percent effective in preventing maturationof heartworms following inoculation of infective larvae 60 days prior to treatment.

Splitting pillsThe issue of splitting heartworm pills comeup frequently. I have spoken to representa

tives from Merial(maker of Heartgard) andNovartis (maker of Interceptor). Both saidthat their active ingredients are mixed intotheir products before the pills are formedand therefore should be evenly distributed(though they cannot guarantee this). However, both manufacturers advise against pilsplitting.

Splitting pills is inexact and may resulin the dog getting less or more of the medication. If you do decide to split the pillsusea pill splitter (available at anydrug storeand do not try to give the minimum dosageas you cannot be certain that your dog willget enough of the medication.

No guaranteesIt is important to realize that, if you do de-cide to modify the way these medicationsare given by splitting pills, giving pillsless often than monthly, or using reduceddosages the guarantees provided by themanufacturers will be invalidated. Undernormal usage, if your dog develops a heartworm infection while on one of theseheartworm preventatives, the company wilpay for treatment, but this is not true if you

are using the drugs other than as directedon the label.

It is important to understand the riskthat heartworm infection poses to yourdog. Rather than relying on unproven al-t e rn a ti v e m e th o ds o f h e ar t wo r mprevention, or the unreliable method ofdepending on your dogs health to keephim from getting infected, all of the meth-ods discussed above will offer you waysof safely reducing your usage of conven-tional heartworm preventatives, while stilgiving your dog complete protection from

heartworm infection.

Next month, well discuss treatment whayou can do if your dogs heartworm testcomes back positive.

Mary Straus does research on canine health

and nutrition topics as an avocation. She

is the owner of the DogAware.com web site

She lives in the San Francisco Bay Area

with her dog Piglet.

When heartworm preventatives were first introduced, the only product availableused DEC and was given on a daily basis. DEC is extremely dangerous if given to adog infected with adult heartworms, as it can cause a rapid die-off of any microfi-lariae, resulting in an anaphylactic reaction. For this reason, it is important to nevergive DEC without first testing to be sure that your dog is free of heartworms beforebeginning treatment and every six months to a year thereafter.

The newer heartworm drugs are less dangerous to dogs who are infected withadult heartworms. They can even be used to kill the microfilariae produced by theadult worms in the body, and have some effect against the adult worms.

Heartworm testing is still recommended before administration of these drugs.Its best to know ahead of time whether there are microfilariae present, so you can

be ready to treat the dog for an anaphylactic reaction caused by the microfilariaesrapid die-off, and to choose the safest preventative to use if the dog is infected.Ivermectin (Heartgard) is safer in this regard than milbemycin oxime (Interceptor),which has a much stronger effect against the microfilariae. Next months article, ontreatment for heartworm infection, will have more information on this topic.

The most common current method of heartworm testing is called antigen test-ing. This type of test can identify only adult female heartworms, and therefore willnot show a positive result until about five to seven months after the dog has beeninfected, the time needed for the larvae to develop into adult worms in the body. Forthis reason, it is no use doing a heartworm test on any dog younger than five months.Heartworm tests are very sensitive, but they are not 100 percent reliable. They arehighly specific, with very few false positives, but they are not always able to detectvery low heartworm burdens, or infections with only male heartworms.

It is generally recommended to do a heartworm test on any dog over the age ofsix months before initially starting preventatives. If you give preventatives onlypart of the year, you may want to do a heartworm test before restarting the medica-tion in the spring or summer, especially if there is any question about the timing ofstarting and stopping the drugs the previous year.

If you give preventatives year round, it is still recommended to test for heart-worm infection every two to three years, just for added security, particularly if youuse minimal dosage amounts or increased time between doses. Note that your dogneeds to have a yearly veterinary exam in order to get a prescription for preventatives,even if your dog does not need to be tested for heartworm.

Heartworm Testing

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BY PAT MILLER

The Shape of Things to Come

Y

This fun training technique can be used to teach your dog anything.

TRAINING

ard sales and flea markets are someof my favorite places to shop fordog training equipment. A coupleof years ago I picked up a classicWizard of Oz picnic basket with

a lid that flips open the kind Toto jumpedout of while being dognapped on theWicked Witchs bicycle. That basket sat ina corner of my training center for quite sometime while I pondered what to do with it.

Finally one day while waiting for a cli-

ent to arrive, I setaboutshaping my Scottie,Dubhy, to flip the basket lid open with hisnose. It took less than five minutes andonce again I was reminded how powerfulthis sometimes overlooked dog trainingtechnique can be.

Shaping, or as its formally known,shaping by successive approximations,simply means breaking down a behaviorinto tiny increments, and reinforcing the dog

seconds. Your goal is a one-second sit. In

any given number of repetitions of Sit,some will be faster than three seconds, somewill be slower, and some will be right onthe three-second mark.

If you were to be scientific about yourshaping program, youd time the sits with astopwatch, only click and treat (mark andreward) those that were three seconds orfaster, and keep a written journal of yourprogress.

If you are less rigorous, youd guessti-mate the times and strive to click the fastersits. Over time, your dogs average elapsed

sit speed time would decrease, perhaps totwo seconds, as he realized that only fastersits get clicked, and deliberately tried to sitfaster to make you click more often.

Now you raise the bar only sits thatare two seconds or faster get clicked. Bybreaking your goal of fast sits into smallerincrements of time, you gradually shapeyour dog to do that lightning-fast one-second show-ring sit that you covet.

Shaping is not just for the show ring. It

at each incremental step until youve

achieved the full behavior. Some trainersbelieve that shaping is the ultimate approachto operant training, and that any steps thatstray off the pure shaping path are detrimen-tal to ultimate results. Others incorporateshaping as I do as valuable partof a multi-faceted training program.

The science behind itThe shaping process works because behav-ior is variable. In any series of repetitionsof a behavior, your dog will give you varia-tions in the manner that the behavior is

performed faster/slower, bigger/smaller,higher/lower, harder/softer, etc. If youwanted to shape your dog for a perfect obe-dience competition sit straight, fast, andin proper heel position youd break thebehavior known as Sit into those threecomponents and work on themone at a time,capitalizing on the variability of your dogsbehavior for each one.

Perhaps you choose to start with speed.Your dogs average sit time might be three

TM

s



Experiment with the different

shaping techniques to see how

you might apply them to your

dogs training program.

When you decide to teach your

dog a new behavior, take a few

moments to ponder how you

might shape it, and then decide

if thats the approach you want

to use for the new behavior or

not.

Invite friends over to play

shaping games with their dogs.

Create informal competitions to

see who can shape their dog to

do ____________ (fill in the blank

with a behavior) the fastest.

s

Shaping can be used to help a dogcome into increasing contact with something thatpreviously scared him. Slowly increase the difficulty or complexity of what you areasking him to do before he gets rewarded, and backtrack if he gets stuck.

s

TRAINING

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has a number of important applications andbenefits for all kinds of training, including:

s Accomplishing a behavior that your dogfinds physically difficult or confusing, suchas a teaching a Greyhound to sit.

s Encouraging your dog to perform a be-havior that he finds mentally difficult or

confusing, such as teachinga crate-wary dogto enter his artificial doggie den.

s Fine-tuning a behavior your dog can al-ready do, such as teaching fast, straight,close sits.

s Helping your dog learn how to offerbehaviors, try new things, and think cre-atively in order to solve problems, throughshaping games such as 101 Things to DoWith a Box.

Shaping techniquesThere are several ways to shape a behavior.You can uselure/prompt shapingas a sortof hybrid technique: youre still showing thedog what you want him to do by luring witha treat, or prompting with a target or otherbody language, and reinforcing incrementsof progress to the final behavior.

Shaping purists tend to scoff at lure/prompt shaping, but it can be very effectiveat getting behaviors more quickly, althoughslower at teaching dogs to think creativelyand offer behaviors freely. Dogs in basicgood manners classes are often taught the

Down with lure-shaping, by luring thedogs nose toward the floor with a treat,clicking and rewarding as the dog makes

any progress toward the floor with his noseor other body parts.

You can use basicshaping, where youhave a goal behavior in mind and, withoutany prompting, reinforce small incrementsthat the dog offers, such as described abovefor a faster sit. And you can free shape by doing training exercises without any pre-conceived notion of where you want the

behavior to go. Free shaping is the mostdifficult concept for novice trainers, whoare often legitimately perplexed by the ideaof training without knowing what behavioryoure trying to train.

Lure/prompt shapingGreyhounds are notoriously difficult toteach to sit. Theories abound as to why thisis so; one theory has to do with theGreyhounds unique anatomy a bodyshape that makes sitting an uncomfortableposition. Whatever the reason, it does seemthat while most dogs offer sits easily, theselong, lean, muscular dogs are somewhat re-luctant to do it.

To lure-shape a sit in a reluctant sitter,hold a treat at the tip of your dogs noseand lift it up slightly. If he lifts his nose tofollow the tidbit, click andtreat. Repeatthisstep, lifting the treat slightly higher and alittle bit back over the head.

When each step seems easy for the dog,progress a little farther, continuing to movethe treat back over the head. At the sametime, watch for a bend in the hind legs. Besure to click the slightest bend in the hocks,

and when you start getting a consistent bendin the hocks, even a small one, keep luring,but only click the leg bend, not the head

lifts. Reinforce gradually deeper bends inthe legs until the dog is sitting.

Why not just push the dog into a sit, ortuck him into a sit by pressing in gentlyabove the hocks? Certainly, some trainersdo, and teach the sit successfully in thismanner. However, some dogs are reluctanto sit due to back or joint pain, and need tolearn to find a way to move into a sit that

doesnt hurt; your push may causeexcrutiating pain.Other dogs resent being physically

manipulated. That may or may not be thereason I had a recent client whose ScottishTerrier caused serious injuries to his priortrainer when she tried to push him into a sitHe resisted her first two push-sit attemptsand on the third try went up her arm withhis teeth.

But other dogs may have other reasonsfor failing to catch on quickly. A case inpoint is a shelter dog I saw in my InternAcademy last summer a beautiful EnglishPointer who had been purchased for hunt-ing trial work but disqualified fromcompetition due to a minor congenital ribdeformity. At age four, he had never beenasked to sit, and just didnt seem to under-stand what we were asking of him.

In fact, he was the classic example of ashut-down dog unwilling to offer any be-havior at all. It took four days of the six-dayacademy, but on Thursday when his trainerfinally got him to sit, the whole class ap-plauded wildly. Best of all, the dog got itHis eyes lit up, and he proudly offered sit

after sit after sit. In the remaining two daysof the course he and his trainer caught upon all the lessons that had been on hold

Lure/prompt shaping can be used toquickly get a new behavior; however, itdoesnt require the dog to figure out forherself what exactly it is that you want.

This dog is learningto flick a light switch.At first, shes rewarded formerely sniffingor licking it. Next shell have to actuallyflick the switch before she gets a treat.

Perhaps the largest benefit of shape-training is that, through this technique,dogs learn to engage and offer novelbehavior when put in new situations.

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while they worked on the sit, and bothgraduated with flying colors and big smiles.

Basic shapingSome trainers profess to teach their entireentry-level classes using basic shaping only.Ill admit Im not that brave, but we do in-troduce the concept of basic shaping withour Go to Your Place exercise. I explain

to my class that shaping is a Zen exercise it takes patience and close observation, andthat well be splitting behavior rather thanlumping. Lumping means to reinforce largechunks of behavior capturing a sit, forexample. In contrast, splitting means to lookfor the tiniest piece of movement, click andreinforce that, and build toward the finalbe-havior. Splitting is the essence of shaping.

To shape a Go to Your Place behav-ior, set out a carpet square, dog bed, orblanket to designate Place. You can actu-ally do this without a physical objectto markthe place, but its easier for canines and hu-mans to succeed with a visual marker andthen you can generalize the behavior easilyby moving the marker to another spot.

Now stand back several feet from thecarpet square and watch your dog veryclosely. Youre going to click and treat thetiniest motion toward Place one step, aturn of the head, a flick of the ear . . . itdoesnt even have to be directly toward thespot in the general direction will do.

If youve already reinforced your dogconsistently for offered behaviors, hellprobably catch on quickly. As he starts re-peatedly making deliberate movementstoward the rug to get clicked, youll holdout slightly longer to build more behavior.Just slightly! You want him to get a littlefrustrated and try harder (harder = biggerbeha

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