kreHonaEwRIGHTz4Built-In Bookcase

Turn a bit of unused closetspace into an eyecatchingstorage cabinet.

S0Framing the BookcaseStrap on your tool belt and beginframing the opening in yourwallfor the built-in bookcase.

32 Shopmade MoldingFollow along as we makemolding for the built-in book-case. With a router and someimagination, you can easilyadapt our ideas to your home.

WoOowORKING42 Ct

"st of Drawers

This project is guaranteed toturn heads, with its matchedcherry plywood drawers, frameand panel door, and customdrawer pulls.

WeereND PROJECT5oo"rk Clock

Elegant design. The warmth ofcherry and curly maple. Tworeasons for building thisattractive weekend project.

WonxsHoP

A versatile chest of drawers provides plenty of storage space, page 42.

S4Portable WorkbenchThe workbench is the corner-stone of every shop. Ourportable, knockdown versionworks great for on-site use.

A beautiful desk clock, page 50. Portable workbench, page 54.

\Torkbench I February 1997

frnQ&A8 Router Table Insert

7.er oncleararl.ce means reliable,steady support for your project.

Snop Tlps12s*a Inuvered Doors

Getting at hard-tereach places.

Oven Tne Fence1 8 genctr Design Contest

Send us your best portableworkbench ideas. Win apizel

MnNur.ncTuRING36 uitt*ork Specialists

Visit a shop that makes curvedmoldings exclusively.

TecnNIQUES39 Cope & Stick Joints

More than a twebit joint.

New Toor-s62 Coraless by Wagner

lncludes battery charge gauge.

Houe Pnooucrs68Cahffic Fireplace

Clean burning, high efficiency.

CnRpTSMANSHIP

80 Compass PlaneThis plane's adjustable sole fitsmost any curved shape.

Cope and stick joinery for frame and panel doors, page 39.

Palm sander tip, page 12. Planing curves by hand, page 80.

A millwork factory that specializes in curved moldings, page 36.

$Torkbench r February 1997

Welcome HoWelcome to the new Workbench.Yolcan't believe how exciting it is to bewriting this letter, myfirstas Editor ofyour magazine. Ifs truly a privilege.

Not only is there a new Editor, anew staff, and a newyear thafs begin-ning. It's also the start of a newdecade. The issue you have in yourhands marks the 4oth Anniversaryof. Workbench magazine. In Februaryof 1957, the first copies rolled off thepress and onto newsstands across thecountry. I have no idea how many arti-cles have been published since then,but I can say that the next 40 years'worth are gorng to be even better.

Whor Hos GhongedWhen you picked up this issue ofWorkbench, you may have thought,"this isn't my magazine."

Well, as you may already know,August Home Publishing Companyis now the publisher oI Workbench.August Home is dedicated to bring-ing you the best how-to hobby maga-zines, bar none. And we are makingWorkbench every bit as strong andhelpful as our other highly regardedpublications, Woodsmith, ShopNotes,Garden Gate. and Cuisine.

We're makingWorkbench themagazine forwoodwork ingthroughout the home,from furniture, to built-ins,to framing decks, walls, and dormers.Along the way you'll also read aboutother skills you'll need to complete yourprojects, like laying tile and hangingdrywall, for example.

We're Just Like YouEvery magazine reflects the people whoput it together. For you, a reader ofWorkbench, this means youll get handson, trial-by-fi re information.

We're not here as magazine professionals. Instead, every person on boardis experienced in woodworking andhome improvement. Some of us havemade a living in the trades, while othershave spent counfless weekends tack-ling shop and home projects. We allhave sawdust in our veins, muddingcompound sfuck between our teeth,and often a mess waiting for us at home- just like most of you.

As a matter of fact, to give you real-istic projects, we've purchased an olderhome here in town that needs somesprucing up. The house was soundlybuilt, but wear and tear has taken a tollover the years. We intend to work ourway through the house one project at atime, exacfly like you do with yourhome improvement projects. We'll giveyou design ideas and show you how wemakeover our home into an eyecatch-ing showcase. WeVe even devoted aspecial section, called HomeWright, tothis series of projects.

With the Workbench house. theWorkbench shop, and the Workbenchstaff, you can bank on getting the bestpossible magazine on woodworkingand home improvement. After all, it'swhat we like to do . . . .

Vor-ume 53 NuMsrn IEDITOR ChristopherA lnman

AsSoclATE EDIToR David Donnelly

PRoJEcr CooRDtMToR Kent Welsh

ARr DlREcroR Robertl. FosslLLUsrMToRs Erich lage

Susan JessenGRAPHIC DESIGNER MinnietteBieghler

CREAT|VE DIRECIoR Ted IGaIiceK

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR IarK Smothermon

SENtoR PHoToGRAPHER Crayola England

SHOP MAMGER Steve Curtis

SHoP CRAFISilAN Steve JohnsonPROJECT DEVELOPER KenMunKeI

PROJEGT DESIGNER TCdWONg

ELEC. PuB. CooRDtNAToR Douglas M. Lidster

PRE-PRESS IMAGE SPEC. Trov CIarK

CoNTtuBuflNG EDIToRS RobertJ. SettichA Robert Gould

CONTRIBUTTNGPHoToGRAPHER CraigAnderson

PRESIDENT & F,TJBUSHER Donald B. PeschKe

NATIoML ADVERTISING MANAGERRichard R Rainforth (515) 282-7000 exL 2240

ADVERnSING SALES MAMGERGeorgeA Clark (515)282-7000 e\t2201

VP PTANNING AND FII{ANCE Jon Macarthy

CIRCUI.ATION DIRECTOR SusanDuBois

CoNTRoL|lR RobinHutchinson

PRoDucrloil DlREcroR George Chmielarz

MAIL ORDER DIRECIOR Bob Baker

NEw MEDTA MANAGER Gordon Gaippe

PRoF. DEv. DIRECToR Joyce Moore

Boot(s EDIToR Douglas L Hicks

To coT.ITRCT WORKBENCH :Subscriptions:WORKBENCH

Customer ServicePO. Box 842

Des Moines, lA 50304-9961Phone: (800)311-3991Fax (515) 28y0M7.

E-MaiI:workbench @workbenchmag.com

lVorld Wide Web:http://www.augusthome.com

To order Worliibench project supplies,call (8OO)3il-3994

WORXBENCH 0SSN 00438057) is published bimonthly flan.,Mar., May, July, Sept, Nov.) by August Home Publishing Company,200 Grard Ave., Des Moines, Iow4 50312. Workbench is a regis

tered trademark of August Home Publishing. Copyright@1996August Home hrblishing Company. All rights reserved.

Subsiption rates: Single copy, $3.95. One year subscriPtion (6 issues), $15.95. Cmadim/Foreign, add $6.00 peryer. Periodicals postage paid at Dm Moines, IA and at addi

tional offices. Poshaster: Send addres changes toWorkbench, FO Box 37 27 2, Boone, lA 50037 427 2.

Print€d in U.S*A-

\florkbench I February 1997

Chris lnman. Editor

Publisher's NoteDear Fellow Woodworkers,

This is a true story . . . eighteen years ago I was reading a copy of Workbench, and

I got frustrated. I wanted to build one of the projects, but there was only one big

exploded view to show the construction. That was the day I decided there ought to

be a magazine that showed how to build projects step by step, and explained the

whole process.

The result was a new magazine: Woodsmith (shown at left). At least, thafs the short

story of how the idea for Woodsmith magaine came about. Okay, Don, a nice story,

but what does that have to do with Workbench now?

Well, things have come full circle. last year I was reading a copy of Woodsmith, and

got frustrated again. This time, the reason was because I wanted more information on

home improvement-type Projects.

It turned out to be good timing. The opportumty to purchase Workbench cilme up.

Because I always felt a link between the two magazines, I thought it would be great to

team them up: Woodsmith for cabinetnaking, and Workbench for "woodworking

around the home."

With the change in ownership, we took the opportunity to update the look and edi-

torial approach of Workbench for its 40th anniversary. And, I think Chris lnman and

the entire staff have done a wonderful job.

Like our other publications atAugust Home Publishing (ShopNotes, Garden Gate,

and Cuisine), I'm proud of the service they offer to our enthusiastic friends in the

areas of home improvement, woodworking, gardening, and cooking.

Thank you for letting us be a part of the enthusiasm you have for your home. And

I hope you enjoy the newWorkbench.

Donald B. PeschkePublisher

| { 6rin' 16. Hd,@d. 6!dd4 , 6fi Sdt. tur @s

\Torkbench r February 1997

Questions &AnswersRout rabbet deep enoughfor insert to rest flushwith the plate.Phenolic plate

Replacing Thermopane GlassI haue a double-Paned casementwindow with a crack in the

inside pane. It's low E-glass. Do I haue toreplace the entire wi'ndow, or can just

the glass in the window be rePlaced?Bob SkrodahlFrankfort, IL

First, Bob, it's important toknow exactly what tyPe of glass

you have. lnw E-glass has a transpar-ent metallic coating that admits light

but blocks radiation, which improves

the insulating value of the glass.

Double-paned glass usuallY con-

: " .. "s'ru[aE wufttfiutsflol{slf you have a question about woodworking or home improvemen! we'd like to see if wecan answer it for you. Just write down your question and mail it to WORI{BENCH Q&A,2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312. Please include your name' address and daytimephone number in case we have any questions for you. Ifyou like' Fax us at (515) 283'2003or send a message to us at workbench@workbenchmag.com on the internet.

8 \Workbench I February 1997

sists of two glass panes with a gas

such as argon filling the gap between

the panes. Unlike air, the gas won't

transmit heat or cold. This sandwich

is then sealed and locked in place in

the window frame.You can replace a single Pane of

low E-glass and keep your existingwindow frame. Due to the fact that it

cuts out the sun's ultraviolet rays, it

will still have some insulating value.

Replacing double-paned glass is com-plicated. You're better off replacing

this kind of unit with one that's pre-

sealed by the manufacturer.

Zero Clearance Router TableMy router table Plate has a holethat the bit sticks through. The

trouble is, the hole is far too big whenI'm using some of my smaller bits. Andthat seems unsafe. What can I do?

Greg BrennerHuntington Beach, CA

Greg, you're right. This is anunsafe situation. Many Pros

make custom inserts for every routerbit in their shop. This is the best way toget the tightest possible fit.

Replace your current insert, or makea new one from scratch. Buy a piece ofplastic or hardboard, no more than halfthe thickness of your phenolic plate'Rout a rabbet into the current hole inyour plate. Trace the outline of yourinsert on the plate, then bandsaw thenew insert to size, and screw it in.Once it's installed, you can slowly raiseyour router bit (while it's turned on)into the plastic to cut a hole the exactsize you need. Bearing bits will requireyou to drill a properly sized hole first.

ffi

Nailing MoldingI'ue got a Problem. Wheneuer Inai.l molding to a wall, either I

manage to hit the wall with my hammer,or the molding sflits. Any suggestions?

Charlie ParkerKansas CitY, MO

Charlie, try cutting a piece ofcardboard and hold it against the

wall. If vour aim is off, the cardboard

should protect it. To make sure Youdon't split your molding, try tapping thewood with a nail set first.

Cardboard

s$,i :* 1 ' a o$"

# W*;r,4tr'

your projec{ in less time.' Polycrfiic has a low odor formula which rnakes

*ott ittg indoors more pleasant, and when yourproject is complete, simply clean up with soap- _and water. PolycryIic. Because getting a beautifulfinish doesn't have to be a tough project.

.";'

:, n*

MAKES AND KEEPS WOOD BEAI.ITIFUL*01996 The Thompso!.Minwd Company oMinwq md hlysylic 4€ regi$ered tradffikr

Build a WindlassFN .. needto outma nana-operarcal\r/lH windlass to draw waterfrom awell using a bucket. I like the old-fash-ioned type. Any plans, tips or inforrnationyou haue would be much aPPreciated,and might saue me from falling in.

W. Joel StanlyStockbridge, GA

Joel, a typical windlass resem-bles a large rolling pin with a

crank on one end. It's suPPorted bYtwo vertical timbers on each side of thewell. The diameter of the windlassshould be about six inches, and a ropewinds around it to raise or lower abucket. Now, assuming you alreadYhave a traditional stone well, the chal-lenge is in securing the posts. To avoiddamaging the well wall, sink 4rrx 4rlposts in concrete just as you would apair offence posts, on each side ofthewell. Holes in the posts will support the"rods" on the ends of the windlass.

Peg lockscrank in /Place. --t

Set postsoutsidestone well.

with

ID i g a 3deep htimber.

Ground level ,h..'"'f it!

3 f t .hole forr. Fill)0ncrel(

Timber

:( + t'.:'{ ),'}..

E

1' t

. ''+f'?L r.

jL 4

b . " i.A

{I -.4

,"\,rf :i

4 " x 4 "

ShopTips

Sanding Louvered DoorsHere's a solution to the time consumingtask of sanding slats in louvered doors.All that's required is a simple device onyourpalm sander.

Take a wooden paint stir stick andcut it about 9rrlong, measuring ftomthe handle end. Form indentationssimilar to those on the handle end 2rlfrom the cut end. Cut strips of sandpa-per the width of the stir stick andabout 6rr long. Then fold the sandpaperover one end of the stick. and secure itwith duct tape.

Palm sander

Hold the stickagainst the pad of your palmsander. Next, place a size 84 rubberband (available at office supply stores)onto the handle indentation of thestick and pull the rubber band up andover the edges ofyour sander. Hook itonto the other end of the stick. Whenyou turn on your sander, the stir stickacts as a thin extension and fits per-fectly between the louvered slats andinto the corners, eliminating hours oftedious hand sanding.

Rubber band

A couple ofhints: keep several large(size 84) rubber bands handy, becausethey do break. When the sandpaperwears out on one side of the stick, justflip the stick over to the new side.

Britt Marie StormKansas City, MO

4-Way Depttr GaugeI was faced with the job of turning sev-eral sets of bowls of different depths.To speed the job, I wanted a quick andreliable gauge.

Itwas annoying to constanfly readjustmy regular depth gauge. And I risked anerror every time I reset iL So I devisedthis gauge to work with up to four dffier-ent bowl depths.

The body of the gauge is a woodenstrip about il square and long enoughto span the largest bowl. Near the cen-ter, I drilled two holes for 3/err dowelrods. They're locked in position withroundhead screws, then trimmed tolength. For quick reference, label orcolor code the rods.

Percy BlandfordStratford, England

12 \Torkbench tFebruarv 1997

Edge Clamping On Your SawhorseAt every step in a woodworking projectit seems that I have to somehow secure aboard. With conventional clamps, thisbecomes quite time consuming. So Icame up with this quick and easy way toclamp wood to a sawhorse.

The concept centers around a long,tapered wedge running the full length ofmy sawhorse. One side of the sawhorseframe is counter-tapered, so that the twopieces fit together.

Now when I set a piece of stock onedge in the sawhorse, a quick tap on thewedge with a malletwill secure it.Another tap from underneath the wedge,and the wood is free.

Iuan C. RkleyOaerl,and, Park. KS

Cut from a 2" x 6"

Drive wedge to secure workpi€ce.

Weight of the doorcauses the dogs

to pinch tight.

Hinge with1/+" gap

Clamping A DoorI had a door that was not shuttingproperly. It was a little tight on theedge and my wife kept after me aboutfixing it while I was hying to mullover the solution. Finally, I devisedthese door dogs so that I could support the door in my shop while plan-ing the edges. They're large braces,but the interesting fact is that the feetcause them to lean inward. Thismeans that the uprights cinch thedoor tight and lock it in place whilemy plane does its job. The specificdimensions are not important, butthey're roughly l2n r 12n, with carpetpadding on the uprights.

Emi,l La,geDes Moi,nes,IA

Ouffeed TableLike many woodworkers, I rely onbenchtop tools due to their compactsize (and matching price tag). Oneway to increase their versatility is byoutfitting them with portable infeed/ouffeed extensions.

Forget those fancy roller set-ups. Anironing board, although not glamorous,serves the purpose quite well.

An ironing board has several advan-tages: a standard board will handle justabout any small shop projec! mostboards have awide height adjustnentrange; it folds flat for easy storage, yettakes only seconds to set up. Ifyoudon't have one, check out garage sales.

Although you c:n use the ironingboard as is, I suggest adding an auxil-iary top made from Vnrr tempered hard-board. This will allow stock to slidesmoothly, and itprotects the ironingsurface in case you ever want to returnthe board to its original u*"'".

u. Hi,mesVi,enna, OH

Folded paper holds small hardware

Parts KeeperI often find it necessary to disassem-ble a tool or appliance in the work-shop. It may be extremely importantto identify the location and sequencein which parts were removed. I havefound that a piece of heavy paper orlight cardboard can be most helpfulwhen doing these projects. I fold mypaper in an accordion style and placeit on the bench where I'm working.

Now the parts can be placed in thevalleys as they are removed, thus pre-venting them from becoming mixedtogether. This, of course, makes re.assembly much easier and faster.

Howard E. MoodyUpper lay, NY

\Torkbench t February 1997

Coiling Cords\Mhen coiling a rope or extension cord,hold the end of the rope in your handand make the first loop normally. Inmaking the second loop, pass the freeend of the rope behind the loop, ratherthan in front of it, resulting in a loop ofthe opposite hand foom the first one.Alternate the loops as you coil andyou'Il get a rope or extension cord thatwill uncoil without twists in it.

Bill HoughtonSebasto|ol, CA

0verhand loop

Clean Putty KnifeTo clean a putty knife when strippingpaint or varnish, I cut a slot in a coffeecan. I make the slot a little longer thanthe knife and cut a V-notch on top ofthe slot so the knife blade can entereasily. When I draw the knife out of theslot, the junk stays in the can. Use tinsnips to cut the notch and slot.

William Robidoux,tr.Tiuerton. RI

Cut slotin can withtin snips.

Sawing WallboardWhen I need to cut a sfip of drywallunder 6rr wide, I use my table saw. Toprotect my saw, I cover the table with asheet ofhardboard, and replace mygood carbide blade with an old bladeIte got lying around. The cut is cleanand I don't have to worry about thenarrow strip breaking.

Daui.s Mi,lesCanyon La,ke, CA

Ihe Starrett DiSTape"A bett€t wry to memlfiB...deGtollically.

DigiTape uses the power ofadvanced electronics to giveyou a totally new way tomeasure that's easier andmore accurate than ever.With DigiTape, you can.... Store a measurement in

memory, so you can take"blind" measurements

'i-i'ii71,2,,,. the dark!

. Switch between "inches." "feet-and-inches." and "centimeters."

. Establish a zero point at any blade location.Since DigiTape has a graduated blade, you can use it as arugged, reliable standard tape too!

Sts,wettInnovationsfhatWd( I

121 UrescentSreet,Amor, MAUrSSr ITel: (508)249-533O. Fax: (508) 249-4495 Centimeters

IMAILI I {G LISTSIPrr iodical ly , we al l t ru companies

whose products and sen'ices may beof intercst to you to mail to our listof subscribers.

We arc very careful to screen these com-panies to be sure the information ytlureceivc is of value to ttru.

Most of our suhscribers apPreciatereceiving these selected materials.Hon'ever, i[ vou lrrefer kr have your namecloletccl irom hre list m.rcle available to otherfirnrs, sinrlrly rvrite us at P.O. Box 37272,Boone. lou'.r 50(\37-t)272. (Please includev()ur clrrrcnt mailing labcl.)

Point your browser to:http ://www. au g usthome.com

\Torkbench I February 1997

Bench Contest!

Let our Portable Work0ench insplre you to deslgn and build somethlng even better, Enter by June 1 , 1 997and you'll be In tre runnlng for a Delta osclllatlng sander and recognltlon In a future issue of Wott@rch.

In every shop, a workbench is the cen-ter of activity. And for us, it has evenmore significance. After all, Workbenchis our name and it's what we spendmost of our time working on.

So when we were kicking aroundideas for our Portable Workbench project (see Portable Workbench on page

It appears that we're not the only onerunning a contest these days. Wood-Mizer, known for its portable band-saw mills, just announced the mostrecent project winners in their 1996Personal Best Contest.

Steve Collett, of McCall, Idaho,won top honors for his 3,000 sq. ft.home near beautiful Payette Lake."After many years working on thefarm, I spent a lot of timedesigning a house for all ofus," Collett beamed.

With help from his fatherand friends, he milledroughly 53,000 board feet onhis Wood-Mizer for thehouse that took five years tobuild. A variety of woodswere used, including juniper,yellow poplar, Douglas fir,ash, maple, elm, hemlock,and Russian olive. His

54), we tried to imagine what featuresyou would want in an ideal bench. In theend, we could only guess. But we knowyou have ideas on this topic, and wewould like to see them. Which bringsme to the Bench Design Contest.

Tb qualify as a portable workbench,we ask that your designs meet a few cri-

Your entry must be an original portableworkbench project, that you designed andbuilt yourself. Submit drawings of yourplans, along with a photograph of you andyour bench by June 1 , 1 997. The winnerwill be announced in a later issue.

The winner willreceive a 8.0.S.S.Bench 0scillatingSpindle Sander fromDelta. Runners-upwill receive a one-year extension totheir subscription (ora new subscription).

teria. Your bench must be lightweightand easy to move, made of durable materials, and, when knocked-down, must fitin the back of a vehicle. The rest is leftto your imagination.

So get going. We're anxious to seethe best portable workbench you candesign and build.

Wood-Mizet's Personal Bestthoughts afterwards? "It's truly ablessing and relief," Steve said.

John Jennings, of CumminC, GA,winner in another category with his1,288 sq. ft. home, observed, "The prideand satisfaction achieved by being ableto construct a home is something fewpeople today will be able to appreciate."

Congratulations from the staff atWorkbench to all winners and entrants.

Congratulations go toDale 0tto of Bad Axe, Michigan

for winning our "Name the Tools"Contest #18. He wins a Craftsman 10" com-

pound miter saw, a $220 value, foridentifying the tools as:

A. Tubing cutter C. Pipe wrenchB. Basin wrench D. Monkey wrench

We also selected five runners-up, each ofwhom will receive a one-year extension

of their subscription.

lvan Umphress; Streator, lLMike Sutton; Johnston, PADonald Clem; Belleville, KS

Gerald Anschwetz; Tawas City, MlBadko Jonas; Douglasville, GA

Congratulations to all of you!We look foruuard to hearing from you again in

our new "Workbench Design" contest.

18 'Workbench

r February 1997

Woods on DiscJust when you thought everything pos-sible had been developed as a multime-dia CD, along comes Woods of theWorld.Yol'llprobably never see it playat the local arcade, or even in a comput-er store. But for those of us intriguedby the varieties and characteristics ofwoods, this interactive CD is a gem.

Now it may be fue that as woodwork-ers, we work with only a few basicspecies of wood, and may have a passingacquaintance with a dozen or so more. Sowhy on earth would we ever want to

know about 910 of the world's mostimportant speeies?

Perhaps the reason we're familiar withonly a few species is because we haven'tbeen exposed to more. Woods of the Worldincludes words and pichres that openour eyes and ears to information we'dnever considered.

Imagine having 35,000 fields of infor-mation at your fingertips, collected fromover 100 books, periodicals, institrtions,and individuals. It exposes you to a newworld through concise descriptions ofwood and trees: colors, grain, workingcharacteristics, availability, environmentalstatus, and so on. It also includes a onehour video showing how trees are har-vested and various forest products aremade. The more we learn, the morewe're pulled into this fiscinating world.

Interactive multimedia CDs like Woodsof the World. are hypnotic in their appeal.They pull us along, exposing us to moreabout wood than we ever thought possi-ble. Who said learning can't be frm?

Woods of the World CD-rom is avail-able for both PCs with Windows andMacintosh. It sells for $99. For moreinformation, call (800) 85&6230.

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIR MANAGEMENT AND CIRCUI.ATION(Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685)

1. Publication Title: Workbench. 2. Publication No.: 004&8057. 3. Filing Date: October 1, 1996. 4. IssueFrequency: Bimonthly. 5. No. ofissues published annually: 6 (six). 6. Annual subscription price: $14.95. 7.Complete mailing address of known office of publication: 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, (Polk County),Iowa 50312-5306. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business offices ofpublisher: 2200Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312-5306. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher,editor, and managing editor: Publisher: Donald B. Peschke,2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312;Editor: Christopher A. Inman, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312. 10. Owner: August HomePublishing Company, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312; Donald B. Peschke, 2200 GrandAvenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312. 11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None. 12. (Does not apply.) 13.Publication title: Workbench. 14. Issue date for circulation data below: July, 1996. 15. Extent and nature ofcirculation:

Actual no. copies ofAverage no. copies single issue pubeach issue during lished nearest to

preceding 12 months filing date

A Total no. copies (net press run)B. Paid andlor requested circulation1. Sales through. dealers, carriers, street vendors, counter sales2. Paid or requested mail subscriptionsC. Total paid and/or requested circulationD. Free distribution by mail (samples,complimentary, and other free)E. Free distribution outside the mailE Total free distributionG. Total distributionH. Copies not distributed1. Office use, leftovers, spoiled2. Returns from news agentsI. TotalPercent paid and/or requested circulation16. Publication of statement of ownership: Publication required. Will appear in the January17. Signature and title of editor, publisher, busiless manager, or owner:(signed) Donald B. Peschke, Publisher October 1, 1996I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.

623,018

21,838488,t21509,959

30,9150

30,915540,874

2,75779,393

623,01894.28%

595,000

22,072459,615481,687

36,6500

36,650518,337

2,740aa or2

595,00092.93%

1997 issue.

20 \W'orkbench t F ebruary 1997

Itlakc box jointsthat fit pcrfcctllcucry timc

WoodsmithShopAluminum Box Joint J igA box ioint is an attractive, strongwav to ioin box or drawer sides.Bui cutting them usually involvescomplicated multiple setups.

Our Aluminum Box Joint Jigattached to the miter gauge onyour table saw or router tablegives you the ability to cut perfectfitting joints with just one setup.

Adjustments for pin and socketspacing can be locked for accuracythrough cut after cut. The jig cutspins aid sockets from 1/+" fo 13/ro"wide. A replaceable polyethylenebacking strip supports your workto prevent chip out.Aluminum Box Joint Jig#4502-658 $84.95Replacement Backing Strip#4502-657 $9.95 ea.

SpcclllGatlonsOverall Dimensions: I7"x 4rlz"Fence: Clear AnodizedAluminum AlloyBacking Strip: High DensityPolyethyleneMicro-Adlust Function:One full rotation of the knobmoves th€ key t1rt".Comes fully assembled andreadv to use.

You'll find the Box Joint Jig, andmany other unique jigs and tools inthe WoodsmithShop. Call us, we'llbe glad to send you a copy.

WooOsmimsfrop"Order

key: A61 C-2383

A Crisis in WaterDavid Brower, former president of theSierra Club, recently stated thatAmerica has used more of the world'sresources in the past 50 years than allthe rest of the world in all of historycombined. Our decreasing waterresources supply prompted aspokesman for the World Bank towarn, 'There is a huge problem loom-ing out there. Unless current trendsare reversed, we will have a worseningwater crisis around the planet."

In the United States, a typical personuses about 120 gallons of water daily.This adds up to a total national dailyusage of over 3 billion gallons. Andeven though two-thirds of the planet iscovered in water, there is only a scantamount available for human consumPtion. While experts continue toaddress this issue, prudent use andmanagement of water continues totake on new significance.

Maytag Appliances has organized atask force consisting of specialists in

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Built-In BookcaseSunday dinners at my grand-

mother's house seemed to drag on

foreuer And when the adults

finally got tired of our fidgeting,they excused my cousins and mefrom the table. In good weather,

we escaped outdoors, with the screendoor slamming behind us faster thanGrandma s warning to close it gently.But on rainy days, we always head-ed for her living room bookcasewhere we picked out the 1926 edi-tion of the Book of Knowledge. In

its dark blue and goldbound volumes, welearned about all theplanets and poredover photo essaysshowing how "mod-ern" steel inkwellpens were puttingquill pen makers outof business.

Those memories inspired thisbookcase, which I designed for theliving room in the Workb ench house.I gained the space for this valuablebuilt-in by sacrificing only a fewsquare feet in the entry hall closet.I cut through the living room wallinto the closet and built the book-case to fit the opening. You can readabout this part of the process inFraming the Bookcase on Page 30.And, if you want to go all out onyour project, you'll find informationon making your own trim moldingfor the bookcase in ShobmadeMolding, on page 32.

Chances are, you'll have torework and adapt many of the ideasfrom my bookcase project. I recom-mend following the same proce-dures I did, but tailoring the dimen-sions to fit your space and circum-stances. None of these steps aredifficult, and the completed book-case is sure to add charm and valueto your home.

\Torkbench I February 199724

Banding

Bookcase Construction ViewOverall size: 24" x 803/a" x 1 2"

Mount tophinge 4"top of door.

Doors(For detailson doors,see theDoorConstructionView onpage 27.)

Center middlehinge vertically0n 000r. --

Bottom Joint Detail

Screws116 x3/a,"

Screws#8xZY2"

Back Rabbet Detail

(lvtount top

hinge 4" fromtop of door.

*t

f : lbj{

Banding%"x3/q" xB03/q"

'-Hinge

\ Bottom banding%" xs/t" x22/2"

Top Joint Detail

uj-lr. "o--

7 SideScrew back (to carcase

V2" 'abbet,

%" deep

1+" Plywoodback

W'orkbench t February 1997 25

Building the CqseGet started on the bookcase by ripping oak plywood for the carcasesides, top and bottom. Cut the panels1rr longer than their final size - theextra length will prove to be helpfullater on. After making the cuts,mark the best surface of each panelfor use on the inside of the case.

Banding the front edge on eachpanel improves both looks and dura-biliU. Rip banding from 3/+" thick

oak stock. Then, glue thebanding to the front edge

SpeedV DfilinO on each panel. Instead of-r---t -"""'r using yellow glue, howev-

For evenly spa0ed er, I suggest using liquidholes, like those hide glue, which allowsneeded for shelf pin more working time. HideSuppofts,1/+" P09- glue also accepts stainsbOard makeS an ideal and clear finishes without

drilling guide, Cut a unsightlv blotching.qtrin tn lonnth thpn Slide each banding strip

label the fr6bs you back and forth on the plv-

intend to use. wood edge until the gluegrabs, then align one edgeof the banding with the

best face of the pl1'wood. Next,secure the banding with a few piecesof masking tape. This will give youenough time to add a clamping padand clamps to each assembly.

Corcose JoineryOnce the glue dries, youcan easily hand plane theexcess banding over-hanging the poorer sideof the panels. For theother banding edges, bemore cautious and use acabinet scraper or sand-paper. Cut the panels tolength when you're done.

The carcase joinery in this projectis simple: dadoes and rabbets. Eachside panel must receive a dado forjoining the bottom, and rabbets forjoining the top and back (see the

Joint Details on page 25).Because 3/arr plywood doesn't

measure a full 3/+tt in thickness, Iinstalled a s/sil dado blade in mytable saw. Then I made two passesfor each bottom dado and top rabbetto get snug fitting joints. Next, Iswitched to arf qr dado blade and cutthe rabbets for the back.

Put the Cose TogetherEven when I'm confident that all thepieces are going to fit, I do a testassembly of my projects. The fewtimes I've skipped this step, some-thing went wrong and I had to fran-tically disassemble the project, wipeoff the glue, and fix the problem, Somuch for saving time!

This carcase was too big to puttogether on my workbench, but apair of sawhorses worked just fine. Asyou join the pieces, make sure all thefront edges align, and check that theback edges of the top and bottomalign with the rabbet shoulders in thesides (Figure 1).

Provided that everything fits cor-rectly, glue the carcase together,using yellow glue this time. On alarge assembly like this, I don't relystrictly on my framing square forchecking the cabinet - I also checkdiagonal measurements with mytape measure. When the measure-ments are equal, the case is square.

To reinforce the joints, I drilledcountersunk pilot holes and drove insheet metal screws. I prefer thesescrews for plywood for several rea-sons. Unlike wood screws, sheetmetal screws are threaded all the wayto the head for increased holdingpower in plyrvood. Plus, their threadsare coarse to help them cut cleanlyinstead of crumbling the wood fibers.

After driving the screws, cut theback to fit. It isn't necessary to gluethe back into position. I fastenedmine with short screws, and didnrtworry about the spacing - I just

spread the fingers of my hand as aspacing guide.

To wrap up the basic carcase con-struction, drill shelf peg holes in thesides. For speed and accuracy, youcan't beat a story stick drilling guidemade of 1/+rr pegboard. Be sure tomark the depth on the bit to avoiddrilling through the plywood.

Distortions in the carcase sides can be caughtusing a long board with parallel edges, andyour level. Straighten the sides with shims,

Tap shims under the carcase until it's level andplumb, 0nce the carcase is set, add more shimsalong the bottom edges to keep it from twisting.

26 -Workbench I February 1997

ldeally, the front edges of the carcase should beflush with the wall. Cheat the carcase slightly out ofplumb, if necessary, to achieve this result,

Use a longstraightedgeto check for Uss lev€l to

check lor

Shim carcase to make itlevel and plumb.

Instoll ilre GoseUntil now, you've only dealt with thebookcase consfuction. But to goany further you'll need to frame ahole in a wall of your home.Although I can't predict every situa-tion you might encounter, you'll findsome general guidelines rn Framingthe Bookcase on page 30.

Once you've completed the fram-ing, you can slide the bookcase intothe opening. Center it between thestuds and slide tapered shims underthe case until the sides are plumband the front edges of the cabinet areflush with the wall @igures 2 and 3).Tb prevent racking, the bottom edgeof the sides mustbe fully supported.

When installing my bookcase, Iran into a slight problem. I could notget the case plumb and have all theedges flush with the wall at the sametime. To make it easier to install thetrim later. I decided to settle for flush

edges and let the cabinetremain slightly out of plumb.

With the cabinet posi-tioned, you can put a fewshims between the case andstuds (Figure a). Shimmingeach side will provide amplesupport and stability. For theinset doors to fit proper$later on, make sureyou keepthe case sides sfaight andparallel to each other.

I used 8d (21lzr) finishingnails, driven through theshims. to secure the cabinet to thestuds. Predrilling the plywoodhelped. Drive the nails about threequarters of the way, again check thecase sides, and countersink the nails.

Resist the temptation to break offthe shims with a hammer blow -this often splits the shims and candishrrb the fit of the case. Instead,cut them with a backsaw.

Hlde fte plywood edges and Increase fte load capaclty by applyingbandlng. lGep the bandlng flush wlm fte bp edge of fie plywood.

x61s/ra--

IIIn

It

Moking the ShelvesLike the other plywood panels inthis project, the shelves are bandedon their front edge with solid wood.

Cut four pieces of plywood towidth for the shelves, and leavethem ilr longer than ncessary fornow (Figure 5). Then, rout theedges of several boards with a sTrttroundover bit. Rip the boards towidth for the banding, and glue themto the panels. Make sure the band-ing pieces are flush with the top sur-face of the plywood. Cut the shelvesto length after the glue dries.

The Doors qrc NextI think the doors on the bookcasegive it a real touch of class. Youcould decide to have an open book-case by leaving off the doors. Formy money, however, this projectshould receive the full freatment.

Building these doors was a newadventure for me. This is the firsttime I've ever used cope and stickrouter bits to form the joints. Youdon't have to follow this method, andthere are lots of other options. But ifyou're interested, take aTook at Copeand Stick Joi,nfs on page 39.

Before getting into the routingsteps, rip stock for your doorframes. I ripped my rails about Vailwider than the final size (see theDoor Construction View). Thisallowed for some tear out, whichdid occur on one piece. Later, aftermaking the cope cuts, I ripped therails to final width.

I also cut each stile about Trorlwider than their finished size. Theexhawidth gave me alittle margin of

Miter glassstops, to

fit in doorrabbet.

cut to fit after dooris assembled.

Cut shelves 1 "longer than finishedsize. Glue on banding,then cut the assembly to length.

3/e" Roundover bit

'W'orkbench t February 1997 27

Routing rabbets in the back of each doorwill open the way for installing the glassand the wooden stoos.

The rabbeting bit leaves rounded corners inthe back of the door. Choo the cornerssquare with a sharp chisel.

Clamp the doors together and rout the hingemortises. Be sure to keep away from the lay-out lines. Clean up the edges with a chisel.

\Workbench I February 1997

error when assembling the doors. Asit turned out, this wasn't necessary,but the insurance is worth it. And,removing the extra 1/rorr requires onlya few passes with a hand plane.

Once you have your stock pre-pared, you'll probably be eager to getgoing on the joinery. If you do usecope and stick router bits, there are afew things to keep in mind.

Cope and stick bits should only beused in a router table. Their sizemakes them potentially dangerouswhen hand holding a router. Also, besure to use a router that's at least ll/zhp. I prefer using a 3 hp router.

With router bits that are this big,you have to expect them to remove alot of stock. So don't try to make thecuts in less than three passes - threepasses became the standard I fol-lowed. Making the extra passes lakesonly a few minutes per door, and theimprovement in quality is definitelyworth the extra time.

Srhen assembling the doors, makesure you keep the frames flat and useminimum clamping pressure to prevent distortion. I laid each door fi:ameon the workbench and used one barclamp at each end of the assembly.

To accommodate the glass panels,you'll have to rout rabbets into theback of each door after the glue dries(Figure 6). Squaring up the corners isbest done with a chisel (Figure 7).

Instqll fhe DoorsAs long as the doors and the cabinetare square, the door installation is abreeze. To begin, trim the doors l,/arl

shorter than the height of the cabinetopening. This will allow 1Ao'r gaps atthe top and bottom.

The 3rr brass hinges are mortisedinto the door stiles and the case sides.Again, I wanted ar/rctt gap, and thatrscontrolled by the depth of the hingemortises. Tb determine their depth,measure the diameter of the hingebarrel wilh calipers - in my case,this turned out to be 3/ro'r. Then, sub-tract 1/ro" for the gap, and divide theremainder in half. I mortised eachleaf of my hinges 1/ro" deep.

lay out the mortises on the doorstiles with a pencil (see the DoorConstruction View). then use asquare and an X-acto knife to markthe outline. Making several lightpasses with the knife works betterthan a heavy-handed approach.

To speed the mortising operationalong, I chucked a 1/z'r straight bitinto a router, and routed away most ofthe waste (Figure 8). I routed asclosely as I dared to the lines, thenfinished with a chisel.

Shim each door in the opening, then use apencil to transfer the hinge locations ontothe front edge of the carcase

Rout away the tongues to create3/a" xyz" rabbels in back of doors.

direction ) .-a1"

. t " . '

With hinge leaf open, transfer thehinge locations to the carcase.

28

Drill pilot holes and screw thehinges to the doors, then standthem in the cabinet (Figure 9). Toget the spacing right, I slipped acouple of quarters under each door.'fransfer

the hinge locations to thecase with a pencil. Then, mark andcut the mortises in the case sideslike you did in the door.

If all went well, you'll be able tomount the doors in the case anclclose each door individually, with aneven 1/rr;rr gap on three sides.

But the cloors won't close in themiddle yet, and that's just what youwant at this point. Remove one cloor,bevel the edge of the unhinged stileand reinstall it (Figure 10). Plane theother door until you get an even l/tr;rl

gap, then plane a bevel on the edge.[rhen everything fits like you

want, install a ball catch at the topancl bottom of each door, ancl aclclthe mounting plates inside the case.You can also install the hanclles.

For safety, machine the glass stops from 7a"thick stock, To begin, roundover all fouredges of the blank.

Adding the GlossAfter you get through achniring

the perfect fit of your cloors, you'llwant to relnove thern one mclre tirneto have glass cut to fit. Tell the glassvendor that you want to orcler l/srl

thick tempered glass, and havethern cut the pieces abor-rt l/sil small-er than the rlorlr openings. Thisclearance will rnake the glass easierto fit arrd allow for sorne rnirrorshrinkage of the door.

As for glass stops, I carr-re up with athree step process that allowecl me tosafely machine the strips froln rr/arl

thick stock (Figures 11, 12, and 13).Once you've shaped your stops,

take a break from the bLrilclingprocess and apply your stain and acouple coats of finish to the strips, aswell as to the cabinet and doors. I

usecl a Benjalnin Moore stain callc.clGolclen Oak, folbwed by a coat o{sealer ancl two coats of varnish. Thesealer ancl varrrish are (]eneral

Finishes proclucts.'Ihe

final step in the bookcase pro-ject is rritering the glass stops tolength ancl installing then.r, alongwith the glass, in the cloors (I.-igure14). Secure thc stops with brads afterdrilling pilot holc.s. Don't glue thestops in place - you'Il want torelrove them ifthe glass ever breaks.

Remount the doors in the cabinetand step back. Vrur work is doneancl it's tirne to filI the cabinet withbooks. You rnay not have a Book ofKnowleclge to anchor your collec-tion, br.rt you probably have a prizedpossession of some kincl that willbring the cabinet to life.'EE[

Use a hand plane to bevel the inside edges of the doors where they meet. This provides clear-ance for each door to open, whib maintaining the consistent 1/ro" gap on the outside edge.

To machine your glass stops to thickness, ripa1l+" wide groove in each edge. Then rotatethe board and rip it again t0 enlarge the gap.

Rip the glass stops from each edge of theblank. You'll need to reset the fence whenyou cut the stops on the other edge.

Miter the stops to length, then install themwith 3/a" long brads. Be sure to drill pilotholes for the brads to prevent splitting.

3/a" Thick stockfor glass stops

Rout al l edges.

Use 3/+" thick stockfor making the

i glass stops.

Make one pass thenturn the board

around and make asecono pass.

Ta" Tempered glass

Glass stopTo prevent kickback, ripglass stops off the stock

on outboard side of blade.

Workbench I February 1997 29

Framing the BookcaseI'll adrnit tkat the first tirne I cutinto a wall, it rnade rne feel a bit

like a surgeon. I crept tkrougheack step, being eaer so carefwlnot to darnage anytking uital.

Since then, I'ue cut into a lot ofwalls in lots of houses. I've learnedwhat to expect, but I try not to takeany'thing for granted.

Breaking into a wall in theWorkbench house, and framing theopening for the built-in bookcase (see

Building the Bookcase on page 24)was done very methodically. By lak-ing a stepby-step approach you'll bemuch more likely to avoid any prob-

lems with the structural parts of your

house. There isn't anything particu-

larly difficult about this job as long asyou don't run into wiring, plumbing,

or ductwork. I also recommend stay-ing away from load bearing walls.

Finding ObstqclesIf you have blueprints for your

house, study them to see if the wallyou want to tear into contains any ofthe obstacles I just mentioned. Ichose to open a wall between the liv-ing room and the entry closet. Thesmall amount of space the bookcaseused up hardly made a dent in thecloset. Fortunately, I only ran intoone light box, and it was on the clos-et side of the wall above the book-case opening.

Once you've determined whereyou want to install your bookcaseyou'll need to use some ingenuity tosleuth out the contents of the wall tofind any potential obstructions.

A quick inspection on both sidesof the wall will reveal obvious warn-ing signs such as duct work, switch-es, and electrical outlets that aredirectly in your path. But also lookfor hints of hidden problems. Forexample, if your planned locationlies between two wall outlets. vou'll

Workbench I February 1997

Jack--'---studs

Although every wall framing situation is difierent, in the end you want to frame the opening forthe bookcase with a oair of studs on each side and a header above.

likely run into a wire connectingthem. Also, check the area aboveand below the wall, if possible, forplumbing lines and other obstacles.It is possible to move wiring orducts, but for this project, we'llassume you have an unobstructedspace behind the wall.

Loqd Beoring WollsWalls are either load bearing ornonload bearing. Load bearingwalls support the floors or roofabove. Non-load bearing walls donot support any significant weightand simply divide the house intorooms. I put my bookcase in a non-

30

tur safety, I shut otr all elecfrlcff In fie lMngmom bsfore cut[ng Inh fie wall. Poruer forfie saw came from a bedroom ouflet.

load bearing wall, which greatlysimplified the framing process. Isuggestyou try to do the,same, andavoid load bearing walls. Generally,steer clear of all exterior walls. asthey are almost always load bearing.And if a wall stands directly above abeam or wall in your basement,chances are good that ifs also load-bearing. You can also look for cluesin your attic. Tlpically, ceiling joistscross over load bearing walls, andany wall bing under places wherejoists end and overlap should beconsidered load bearing.

To check out the wall I plannedto cut into, I drilled a Verr holethrough the ceiling right next tothe wall. Then, I straightened acoat hanger and pushed it throughthe hole. After taping it to the wall,I climbed into the attic and foundthat the wire was far from anystructural obstacles.

This coat hanger techniqueworked so.well that I drilled a holenear the wall through the floor.After checking the wire location in thebasement I concluded that my wallwas ideal for the bookcase.

let's Get GuningOnce you've settled on a location, youcan get to work. Cut an opening inthe wall large enough for the bookcase, with plenty of working space allaround. Cut the drywall to at leastone sfirdbeyondthe openingon eachside. Also, remove the drywall all theway to the ceiling so you have accessto the wall plate.

I cut the drywall with a reciprocat-ing saw. If you don't own a reciprocating saw, you can probablyfind oneat a tool rental store. A portable cir-cular sawwill also workforthis oper-ation - just remember to set theblade depth forther/ztt thick drywall.You don't want to cut into the shrds ifyou can help it

To be on the safe side, in casethere is a wire hidden in the wall,shut off all the power to the livingroom while making the wall cuts.

Inside rhe WollAfter removing the drywall, you cansee the arrangement of studs in thewall. Depending on where you wantto install the bookcase, you may beable to use a stud to establish oneside of the opening.

I-ayout the location of the book-case opening on the floor plate andremove any studs that fall within thearea. A maul will make quick workof this little operation.

Now toenail a king stud to thefloor plate and wall plate to definethe bookcase opening - leaveroom for a jack stud plus anotherr/z' of. space on each side. Cut thefloor plate flush with each king studand remove the waste.

You can cut the jack studs tolength next, making sure theyextend above the bookcase heightan inch or two. Nail the jack studs tothe king studs, then make the head-er assembly. I always slip a piece ofr/2il thick scrap plywood betweenthe header pieces so that the thick-ness of this assembly matches thewidth of the studs.

Knock the header into positionabove the jack studs and nail all theframing together. Adding cripplesabove the header supports the top

p l a t eand wallplate (even thoughthis isn't a loadbearing situation,the wall stillmust support theflooring and peopledirecfly above). Thiscompletes the framing.

Instclling lhe BookcoseBefore sliding the bookcase into posi-tion, you'llwantto hang new drywallon the framing. Once this is done,you can maneuver the bookcase intothe opening so its front edges areflush with the drywall. TJ'rcr/ztt clear-ance you frctored into the king studplacement should provide room foradjustrnents. Use plenty of shims, butbe careful not to distort the bookcasesides in the process.

Once you have everything set drillpilot holes and drive finishing nails tosecure the bookcase to the jackshrds. later, you may want to build awall to hide the back of the bookcase.Meanwhile, you can get to work trim-ming the bookcase.tf

A miter saw cub lumber quicldy and accurately. Setdng fiesaw on a woilbench saves wear and tear on pur badc

'\?'orkbench I February 1997 3l

Shopmade MoldingI always thought molding was

something I had to buy. I'daccepted the fact that pri,ca were

high and the selection waslimited. But I'm a woodworker!

There had to be a better way.Once I got to thinking about it, Irealized I had everything I neededto make my own molding: a router,a router table, and a good selectionof bits. In fact, I just recently pur-chased a l$piece set ofrouter bits,so this was a perfect opportunity toput them to the test.

During the planning stages, Imentioned my interest in makingmolding to a friend who works at a

32 W'orkbench I February 1997

millwork shop. He did knock a bit ofcornmon sense into me when he saidthat some profiles might be out ofmy reach. He showed me a few largecutters used to make complex pat-terns. and then described the enor-mous machines that drive the cut-ters. After that conversation, I didn'tkid myself into thinking I couldmake every possible pattern.

Routing CombinotionsStill, the options appeared vasflysuperior to what I could buy, and Ibegan sketching patterns uslng myrouter bits as guides. Graph paperkepteverything in scale. Although I'dbe embarrassed to show you thosedrawings, they got me thinking aboutnewways of making moldings.

For instance, while tinkering withthe router bits, it occurred to me tostack several boards after routingan edge on each one (Figure 1).Combining the routed edges in thisway created richly contoured mold-ings that are far more interestingthan the single molded edges.

Varying this technique can result inall sorts of combinations, and youcan succeed with even the sparsestcollection of bits.

Other, more subtle ways ofexpanding the scope of possibilitiesinclude changing the bit's cuttingdepth, altering the size of the bear-ing if it has one, and using differentcutters in combination on one mold-ing. As an example of the multiplebit approach, I like using bits with abearing for routing the edge of aboard, then one or two bits withoutbearings for routing its surface.

A Ghoice of Router BifsWhen choosing router bits you mightfind it helpful to consider their char-acter. Ogees, Roman ogees, andbeading bits are classic shapes thatare popular in Colonial style homes.Chamfers are closely associated withthe futs and Crafts movement. Andmany contemporary homes are filledwith roundovers and small coves.

Most conventional bits with bear-ings do have one limitation: their pro-files are short and shallow. Due to anew generation of router bits, howev-er, you now have more options. IVetried Amana's fuchitectural MoldingBits, for example, which include pat-terns as wide as 134rr. These are allheavy-duty bits with Yzrr shanks, sothey aren't recommended for use insmaller routers. But you wouldn'twant to do that anyway. large bitslike these require a router of at leastlr/zhp, and typically you'll want to dothe work on a router table.

Preporing the LumberAs with any woodworking project, Igo through some preliminary stepsbefore routing my lumber. S4retheryou're building a cabinet, a deck, ormolding, choosing and preparingboards in the beginning always paysoff down the line.

First, to get the lowest price onmolding lumber, I buy rough stockand mill it to thickness (Figure 2).For most molding applications, I use34rr thick material.

After the boards are smooth andflat, I joint one straight edge onto

To guarantee uniformity in your stock, planeyour rough material down to one commonthickness. I use 3/n" for most of my moldings.

each piece (Figure 3). This paves theway for the next step - ripping theboards to width. As I rip the boards,some always bind against the blade,which causes a kickback hazard.Inserting a wedge into the kerfsolves this problem (Figure 4).

I do want to mention one excep-tion to this last step. If you're plan-ning to make narrow molding, say2rr or less, I recommend ripping theboards to size after routing the pro-files. Balancing a router on narrowstrips is difficult, and any waveringwill show on the finished profile.

More Molding TipsI originally thought I'd rout all mymoldings on the router table. As itturned out, hand-holding my routerwas sometimes a better option.Often, it's simply a matter of space- a board 10 ft. long requires 20 ft.of clearance to pass over a routertable. This kind of open space justdoesn't exist in my shop.

Here's another tip: after routingany molding over 3rr wide, cut 1,/srl

deep by 3/arr wide grooves in theback with a dado blade (Figure 5).This helps relieve stress in theboard, allows air to circulate behindthe molding to keep it in balance,and assures a better fit on the walls.

Finally, don't forget the finishing.It's common to push this step to theend, after the molding is installed.Instead, I prefer to stain and seal mymoldings before installing them. Notonly does this allow me to stabilizethe wood better by sealing the backof each board, but it also reduces themess on my walls (Figure 6).

Joint one edge 0n all your boards before rip-ping fiem to width on the hblesaw. A sfaightedge will reduce fie chance of kickback

Rip your molding to width 0n the tablesaw, lfthe kerf begins to bind the blade, insert awood wedge near the end of the board.

Dado 1/a" deep by 34" wide relief grooves inthe back of the molding to help preventwarping and assure a better fit on the walls.

By staining and finishing both sides of yourmolding before installation, you'll reduce themess on your walls and seal the wood better.

33\(orkbench t Febnnry 1997

The Bookccse MoldingBeyond describing the generalcourse of events for making yourown molding, I find the best way tolearn is to jump into a project.Making and installing trim for thebookcase in the Workbench houseprovided an ideal faining ground.

The casings and baseboards are3Vzil wide. Because I wanted a sim-ple, fraditional look, I chose to visu-ally anchor the casing to the floorwith plinth blocks (see the MoldingDetail and the Bookcase MoldingConshuction View). You'll see plinthblocks, although often more elabo-rate than these, in many turn-of-thecenfury homes. Between the casingand each plinth block, I used a fillersfip to add interest to the assembly.

I created another interesting effectby using Lshaped outside corners tosurround the casing on the book-case, as well as the doorways andwindows in the rest of the room.

One advantage that plinth blocksoffer is the nicely fitting - and easyto make - butt joints that result atthe intersections of the casings andthe baseboards. The plinth blocksclearly mark the difference betweenthe two molding segments, whichhelps set the doorways apart fromthe rest of the room.

To maintain continuity, how-ever, I made baseboards thatmatch the casings. Thiscommon molding profileis the link that visuallyholds the room together.

A Unique JointAn unusual and interesting feafireof the molding in this project is theway the side casing meets the headcasing (as shown above). Typically,this joint is mitered or butted togeth-er. But I made cope joints using aroundover bit set to cut a Vsrr deepshoulder on the inside edge of allthe casing. Then, on the top end ofeach side casing, I used a cove bit torout a matching, but opposite profilethat fits the roundover perfectly.

Bookcase Trim MoldingConstruction liew

L-shapedcornSrs

34 'Workbench t F ebruary 1997

II

--Y2"Radiusroundover bit

Use a matched set of 1/2" radius router bits toform the matching profiles of the coped joints.

slide over a bit) with the bearing onthe bit. The bit was set to leave a l,/srl

deep shoulder to match the shoul-der on the roundovers. But it's not aruler measurement that reallycounts here - the cove must fit theroundover when the pieces arepushed together. So rather thanmeasuring, I made a few test cutsuntil I got the depth just right.

Here's a tip: routing end grain canleave some nasty tearouts. By sup-porting the back side ofyour casingwith scrap wood, you can preventany significant tearing. Since therouter bit will exit some casings ontheir profiled edge, I routed a match-ing cove into one back up piece.

Accenfing with TrimMaking the Lshaped corner trimbegins with a planer, which I foundwas the best tool for milling roughstock into the ilrsquare strips.

Shaping these strips requires arouter and a table saw (Figure 8).

First, using a router table, rout twoadjacent edges on each strip with al/srr roundover bit. Next, cut thestrips into an Lshape by ripping arectangle from the back of eachpiece. For safety, use a push stickduring this ripping operation.

Instolling rhe MoldingOnce I sanded, stained and brushedon a coat of sealer, the moldingswere ready to be trimmed to lengthand mounted on the walls. I can't tellyou how pleasurable it was workingwith trim I had made. This is whenthe preparation work done at thebeginning of the process paid hugedividends. The pieces were all thesame thickness and they matched inwidth, and I wasn't struggling withtwisted or warped stock.

Planning and making the bookcasetrim demonstated to me how easy itis to customize the woodwork in myhome. Any woodworker with a litfleimagination can do even more.tM

The bits I used include a 1/zrl

radius roundover and a 1,/zrr radiuscove (see the Router Bits above). Irouted the roundovers along theedges first, then routed the covesinto the top end of the side casingpieces to fit.

For the roundover routing opera-tion, I clamped the long pieces ofstock to my bench and hand-heldthe router (Figure 6). Theroundover bit should be set to leavea I,/srr shoulder. I made test cuts inscrap wood until the depth was justright. You'll enjoy more consistentresults if you take several shallowpasses to reach the final depth.

Don't forget, you'll need to routmirror image casings for each door-way. One for the right side casingand one for the left side casing.

To rout the coves, I quickly sawthat the router table was the easiestand safest way to go about it (Figure7). I aligned the router table fencefuhich has a hole cutout so it can

Due to the lengh of fie stoc( it's best to routhe roundover using a hand-held router. Use aback up board to lift the stock off your bench.

Back-up fie casing wifrr a miter gauge andscftrp w00d t0 prevent tear out, By making shal-low passes you'll avoid buming fie end grain.

Make the L-shaped molding by first roundingover two edges, then cutting away the wastein two passes using your tablesaw.

Workbench t February 1997

TI1 "

I*--%1

35

Millwork SpecialistsIf you thought that home builders jambs. The windows were topped

cut corners in the past, you with stunning half-moon shapedglass, framed with matching curvedcasings. And in several rooms, ratherthan typical square corners wherewalls meet, each corner was built to a$inch radius. These were fitted withcurved wood corners that connectedthe sfaight sections ofthe baseboardand crown moldings.

Needless to say, I was curious tofind out how all these curved mold-ings were being made, and whowas making them.

Following o Curved PqthWell, as we all know, there are lotsof creative people out there.Tracking down the person responsi-ble for these moldings led me to oneof them. The man behind this cut-ting edge woodworking technologyisn't a degreed engineer, a machin-ist, or even a formally-trained wood-

haaent seen anything yet. Butwhen today\ builder corts corners,

he's responding to one of theIatest design trends, and his

worker. He's just a guy with a lot ofideas and the drive to figure outhow to make things out of wood.

Don Friend got his start as a houseframer, and then decided that kind ofwork was too seasonal - andinvolved working on some very colddays. So he turned to finish carpenfyfor awhile. Another turn in his careerpath led him to start his own cabinet-making business. But within a few

customers couldn't be happier. lnokat some of the homes being builttoday, and you'll see what I've begunto notice - more and more curves.You can readily buy curved win-dows and doors. And makingcurved walls, ceilings, and cornersis fairly easy to do with framinglumber and drywall. The hard parthas been making wood trim thatfits all these curves.

For instance, a nearly completedhome I saw a few months ago wasfilled with archways trimmed outwith elaborate frame and panel

36 \Torkbench tFebruary 1997

years the stiff competition woredown his enthusiasm. "Everyonewas competing to build basically thesame box for the same customers,"Don said. "I wanted to get away fromthe crowd, find a unique niche, andbe out frontwith new ideas."

Wqtch Out For GurvesAlthough Don was searching forhis place in the woodworking mar-ket, he didn't limit his survey ofdesign trends to wooden objects.He reviewed the evolving architec-ture of residential and commercialbuildings. He studied cars, indus-trial machinery, and even house-hold appliances.

Don's keen powers of observationpaid off when he realized that manyproducts were featuring more andmore curved shapes.

Cur.ved objects are often calledorganic because they are more likenatural shapes than man-madestraight lines and rectangles.Nafure abounds with curved forms- from hills and trees to animalsand humans. Objects manufacturedwith square corners often seemharsh. But softened edges andround corners can make thesethings more user friendly.

"For woodworkers," Don said, "atrend toward ergonomic handles

(which usually means more curves)is easy to see on a visit to your localhardware store." Another reason formore curves is safety. "As we under-stand how to make our living areassafer, bullnosed edges and curvedcorners are becoming more com-mon, especially if you have kidsaround." Don noted. "Even concretestructures are taking on a morerounded appearance."

The Goncept Tokes ShcpeDon had the basic concept for hisemerging millwork business, butnow another set of challengesarose. Most non-wood materials arepliable enough to be formed intocurved shapes during the manufac-turing process. Plastic, concreteand metal, for example, easily con-form to different shapes. Wood is alot more difficult.

Don was able to craft individualpieces of curved wood molding, butthe process was often painstakinglyslow. To make the business successfuI, he would have to find - or create- woodworking technology thatmake production run items possible.

Toke o Turn Inlo the ShopWhen you mention innovative man-ufacturing technology, most peoplethink of computer-guided machin-

Rounded blanks go firough many steps ofrefinement before ending up as omamentaldetails on tall plllars and columns,

ery that whirs in response to thekeyboard tapping of a skinny kidwith a pocket protector.

So you can imagine my surprisewhen I first drove up to Don's shop. Iexpected a warehouse filled withmachines as big as boxcars. But thetruth is, if you moved the wood racks

Worlars laminab layens of special bendingplywood between steel plabns h make acurved jamb. This requires lorb of clamps.

An operator feeds curved stock past shapercutters that are cuslom gr0und to precise tol-erances for a client's design,

A shop-made trammeljig makes bandsawingarcs fast and accurate. lt quicldy adjush hany radius for cutting sections of an arc,

Couing peak perfurmancefrom fte bandsaw requkesconstant attention to ib adjust-merrb. Bent shapes are oftenbandsawn and laminated.

\7'orkbench t F ebruary 1997 37

outside, you could fit Don's shop intoa few double bay garages.

Computers do play a role in thebusiness - by helping to figure outhow the molding should be made.But they don't guide any cuts. Goodold-fashioned human ingenuity takesover at that poinl

The methods are not always high-tech, but they get the job done. Thisapplication of appropriate technologahelps find staighforward solutionsto curved problems.

Bending the RulesThe shop uses every fick in the

book. and has written a few newchapters of its own. Don demon-sfrated a few of the shop's broadrange of techniques. Some piecesare machined to a curve. others are

Thls beast of a moldlng machlne pmduces beau0ful proflleson sfalght lengts of sbck As fie duct hpe suggesb, a"can don attfude permeabs tris shop,

made up of many thin sffips lami-nated together against a curvedform. Still others are boards splicedtogether and then later b4ndsawnand clamped to shape.

I studied a few pieces of curvedmolding that seemed to deff theusual rules of woodworking. Iturned to Don and started to askhow they were made, but I could tellthat his smile would be the onlyresponse I would get.

Ugly MochinesThe shop's machines - originallymeant for common woodworkingtasks and metal working - havebeen adapted for use in this special-ized ffade. Although the moldingsthey produce are beautiful, some ofthe machines are downright ugly.

Several machines looklike they are 90% castiron and 10% duct tape.

Most of the jigs weren'tmuch to look at either.Vacant screw holesshowed that the jtgs arewell used. They hadevolved through manystages before reachingtheir final shape.

The jrss symbolize thespirit of the business,which is constantly chang-ing. Don's product line

Many custom forms arecreated for hesespeclalized moldlngs.Very large ones such ashls bendlng form andcnssbar, whlch shndsover 52" hlland 70"wlde, wlll beconstucted, onlyto be used once,then dlscarded,

a l w a y sadapts to accomodate the needs ofhis wholesaleonly clien-tele ofarchitects and builders.

Eventually, the company mayget its products into the mass mar-kets of home centers and lumber-yards. But ifs difficult to predictexactly what the fuhrre holds forprofessional millwork. Becauseeven in the world of curved mold-ings, you never know what'saround the next corner.tf

Common woodworldng machines can produce uncommon resulb when fiey are modlfled b ft fie task

38 W'orkbench I February 1997

Cope and Stick JointsIt's hard for me to ignorethe beauttfully contoured

frame and panel techniquethat graces the doors of fine

kitchen cabinets and case work.Perhaps it's the fact that the piecesall fit together like a puzzle thatkeeps me intrigued.

Although this method is usuallyassociated with traditional styles, it isalso right at home with more con-temporary projects, such asthe Chestof Drawers and Built-In Bookcase pro-jects featured in this issue.

Inferlocking JoineryIt wasn't long ago that all we coulddo was admire doors with theircope and stick joinery. The tech-

nique was traditionally the exclusivedomain of professionals who hadaccess to large shapers. Cope andstick cutters for the home shop didn'texist. But recently, with the inffoduc-

tion of larger 2 and 3 hp routers withI/2rr collets - as well as the populari-ty of router tables - manufacturersbegan redesigning these hefty cut-ters for small shop use.

\Workbench t February 1997

Cope and Stick Router Bit Detail

Stick cutter

7

40

Aligning the router bearing with the fenceprovides additional support, safety, andaccuracy when routing joints,

Now, there's an enormous varietyof cope and stick router bit sets tochoose from. You can recognize thedistinctive profiles of these bits andcutters on the inside edges ofdoors, and at the joints where railsand stiles meet.

How the Joinr Firs TogelherEach set of bits is made up of tworouter bits with multiple cutters (seethe Cope and Stick Router BitDetail). The cutters create mirrorimage profiles that include a tongueand groove joint. It's a clever systemthat enables the ends of the rails to fitperfectly into the edges of the stiles.

The bit that produces the profile onthe inside edge of a frame is the stick,or stile, cutter. Use this bit on theedges of both the stiles and the rails.This cutter also creates a l/4" groovefor the panel to fit into.

'Workbench I February 1997

The bit used on the ends of therails is the cope, or rail, cutter. It cre-ates a profile that fits the edges, sothat the sides of the stiles and endsof the rails interlock together in thecorners. At the same time, the copecutter forms short tenons on theends of the rails, which fit into thegrooves in the stiles.

Choose Your Router BitsThere are two types of cope andstick sets that you can choose. Onechoice is a matched set of routerbits (see the Cope and Stick RouterBit Detail). You can also go with onebit that is reversible.

With the reversible bit, you canrearrange different parts to rout boththe cope and stick elements. As youmight expect, the matched pair ofbits is the more expensive choice.But there's more to it than just moremetal. The set produces moredependable results.

While the reversible bit usuallycosts less, you risk getting a lessthan perfect fit when you switchthe cutters back and forth. You cansolve the problem by insertingshim washers between the cutters,but this trial and error testingrequires a healthy dose of patience

and can eat up a lot of time.After careful consideration, I chose

a matched set of bits. The Amana setI used cuts a roundover and bead pro-

file with the stick cutter, and a mirrorimage with the cope cutter.

'Rout therail and stile

edges with thestick bit.

To make the pushblock, screw a 2" x 4" x 6"handle to a 3/+" thick plywood base. Be sureto countersink the screws.

Carefully align the bit before routing the endsof the rails. For safety, support the rails withthe pushblock during the cub.

Rout therail ends withthe cope bit.

Align fence with bearing.

Pushblock Detail

Attach 2" x 4" handle with #8 x 172" FHWS.

Tbp View

Base (plywood)3/a" x12" x12"

Handle2 " x 4 " x 6 t '

Srqrt With the CopeWhen I made my door frame, I madethe coping cuts first. This does twothings. First, it cuts the tenons onthe ends of the rails. Second, it alsomakes a cope cut, the reverse imageof the visible pattern that runs alongthe inner edges.

Chuck the cope (rail) bit into yourtable-mounted router. Be sure tocheck your height adjustment. Thenuse a ruler to align your fence withthe bit's bearing (Figure 2). Clampthe fence securely, then doublecheck to make sure that the fencedidn't move during the setup.

To guide the end of the rail squarely past the cutter, I made a pushblock(see the Pushblock Detail). It's sim-ply a l2tt square of 3/arr plywood. Tomake it easier to use. I made a handlefrom a 6rr length of 2tt x 4rr andattached it with screws.

The pushblock has another advan-tage - it virtually eliminates tearoutwhen the bit exits the rail (Figure 3).Any minor tearout on the inner edge

A great way to saveset-up timeSave sample pieces of both the railand stile cuts, and store them nearyour router bits. Then, the next timeyou want to set up your router forthese cuts, you can use the sam-ples as gauges to quickly set theheight of the bits.

of the rail will usually be removed bythe stile cutter. To resolve tearout onthe outer edge, I ripped the railsabout 1,/s" wider than their finishedsize. Then, I planed or jointed the railto remove the tearout.

All the rails and stiles are machinedface down on the router table. Toavoid mistakes, I usually mark theback of each piece with tape.

I always make it a point to havesome test stock around that matchesthe dimensions of my real rails andstiles. After adjusting the routertable setup, I'll run a test piecethrough to check the bit height for

Rout a profile with the stick cutter on edges of rails and stiles after first making cope cut onends of rails. Properly adjusted, the rails and stiles will interlock with a flush surface.

the cope cuts on the ends of therails. I never rout my real stock untilI get a perfect test cut.

Rout the end of each rail. Makeeach cut in three or more passes toreduce the chance of burning thewood. For the first pass, hold therail firmly against the push block,with the end of the rail about l/srl

away from the fence. Then, push therail through the router bit. Move therail and push block away from therouter bit, and return to the startingposition. Continue making passes inthis manner, a little at a time, untilthe rail contacts the fence.

Finish wirh rhe SlickAfter you cut the ends of all therails, it's time to switch bits. (Or, ifyou're using a reversible bit, changethe arrangement of the cutters.)Chuck the stick (stile) cutter intothe router. Make sure that the bit'sbearing is flush with the fence.

Then, carefully adjust the bit'sheight, matching the panel grooveportion of the cutter with the tenonon the end of a rail you just finished.Height adjustment is critical. Makevery fine adjustments, testing thesetup on scrap wood. Your goal is toensure that the front edges of thestiles align perfectly with the endsof the rails when they fit together.

For safety, clamp a featherboard toyour router table (Figure 4). Thiswill help hold the rails and stiles firm-

ly against the fence. Next, rout theinner edges of the stiles and rails,then dry assemble (without glue),and lightly clamp.

Assembling the DoorMany kinds of panels can fit into thistype of frame: raised panels, flat pan-els such as pllrn'ood, and glass.Whatever you use, the panel must fitinto the 1/a" groove formed by thestick cutter. Double-check the sizeof the frame's opening before cut-ting your panel to size.

A solid wood panel can fit fairlysnugly from top to bottom, but musthave some expansion room from sideto side. I usually allow about \/rc'-r/a'

on every side. That way, I can besure the panel won't interfere withthe door frame assembly as thejoints are clamped tight. Don'tworry about gluing your panel inplace - it can't go anywhere.

Brush glue into the joints, but bestingy - cleaning up glue in theinner corner of a door frame is atough job. Insert the panel, andclamp until the glue dries. Makesure the door is flat and square.As my familiarity with cope and

stick joinery improves, I seem tonotice its use more and more. It trulyis a distinguishing feature that'sfound on better quality furniture andcabinetry. And I'm pleased that it's atechnique that is now within thegrasp of many home shops.t@

\Workbench I February 1997 4L

Chest of DrawersCould anything be sirnpler than

building a box? If yow thinkabout it, that's wkat cabinet

making is all about. Srnall boxeslike drawers fit into big boxes likecabinets. But just because one boxis bigger doesn't mean it's moredifficult to build.

This chest of drawers is a perfectexample. Despite its size, all the join-

42 'Workbench r Februarv 1997

ery can be easily completed with atable saw, a router and a biscuit join-

er. The only tough part is the car-case assembly, which is awkward toclamp. Although with the help of afriend and some long pipe clamps,even this step will go as smoothly foryou as it did in my shop.

But building the chest of drawersis only half the story. This is a beauti-ful cabinet with storage space tospare. I ended up using mine in a

bedroom for clothes. I think it couldwork equally well in a dining roomfor storing linens and table settings,or it could hold a stereo if you like.

Perfecl Plywood PqnelsUnlike many traditional cabinets, Ichose to build the carcase for thischest of drawers using cherry ply-wood. It saved me from having to glue

up lots of boards into panels, and it's amore economical use of material.

Chest of Drawers Consfruction View0VERALL SIZE: 23" x52" x523la"

Solid Cherry-=--...-.--/

Carcase ConstructionView on page 44.

Drawer ConstructionView on page 48.

Attach talse frontsto drawers withscrews.

Carcase and false drawerfronts are 3/4" chetryplywood with Ta"thicksolid cherry edge banding.

Cherrybanding

CHEsT oF DRAWERSA kit has been assembled for thisproject tlnt includes the drawerslides, shelf supports, ball catches,and screws.Orrlernmber330llOO.... . . . . . . . . .$49,95

Also available: Dovetail jig.For details, see page 74ordernumber5002200... . . . . . . . . . .$ag.ss

Router guide bushing set.Ordernmber5503100... . . . . . . . . . .328.95To order, csl (80O) 311-3994

Startby ripping cherry plywood forthe carcase top, bottom, and sides.Next nudge the fence over %rr andrip a piece to width for the divider.

Cutting these panels to length isone key to getting your cabinetsquare - that will be important laterwhen fitting the door and drawers.

For the sides. I recommend a twostep cutting sequence. First, usingyour table saw and rip fence, cut thepanels 12rr longer than their final

length. Then reset the fence and cutthe other ends for the final pass.

Because the top and bottom arelonger than my rip fence capacity, Ihad to be creative when cuttingthese pieces to length. Forhrnately, atechnique came to mind that Ilearned from a veteran cabinetnak-er. Mark the length of the panel andcut Tarr outside the line with your cir-cular saw. Next, carefully clamp astraight edged board along the lay-

out line, check it for square, thenrout the panel to length with a flushtrim bit. You can then use this panelas a template. Clamp itto the secondpiece and rout it to exactly the samelength. There's hardly a bettermethod for precisely matching twoor more pieces.

For now. don't cut the case dividerto length. You'll want to doublecheckthis dimension after putting the car-case together for a dry run.

\Torkbench t F ebruarv 1997

#8 x 2" FHWS

False top3/n" x23" x58"

Elongated holesalong front allow

false top to expand.

)aple drawer

Base assembly ismade of hard maple.

43

Corner Joint DetailTop All plywood parts for carcase(except back) are 3/a" plywood.

CarcaseConstruction View

Divider3/q" x195/a" x35Y2"

Add edge banding afterassembling carcase.

#8 x 2" FHWS i

Plywood JoineryThe carcase corners feature a dadoand tongue joint (see the CornerJoint Detail). To make this joint, I cutthe dadoes in the sides first, then cutthe rabbets in the top and bottom toform the tongues.

Set up your table saw with a r/+rl

wide dado blade. Then, make testcuts in scrap plywood to get thedepth and location of the dadoesexacfly right. When you are satisfied,cut the dadoes.

To form the tongues in the top and

Make a drilling jig from r/a" thick pegboard to locate shelfholes quickly and accurately. Begin 5" up, and drill ahole every inch for 25" for maximum shelf adjustment.

\Torkbench t Febrvry 1997

-- Va" x36" x51Y2"(Maple plywood attached

with #6 x 3/a" FHWS.)

Side3/n" x197/a" x36Yz"

bottom, use the same blade andclamp a wood auxiliary fence to yourrip fence. The auxiliary fence will pro-tect the rip fence from the blade.Now, slide the fence right next to theblade and make test cuts in scrapstock until you get a snug fit betweenthe tongue and a dado. Then com-plete the tongues in the real stock.

Once you've completed thetongues, keep your saw set up exact-ly the same and cut a rabbet alongthe back edge of the sides, top, andbottom (see the Back Joint Detail).

These rabbets will accom-modate the back later on.Finally, you can switch to a3/arr wide dado blade andcut a dado in the top andbottom for the divider (seethe Divider Joint Detail).

Fiiling the DividerExperience has taught meto always run through adry assembly of my pro-jects before the final glue-up. Checking the fit of thepieces early makes it mucheasier to fix any problems.In this case, it also gave me

a chance to measure the exactlength of the divider.

After assembling the carcase andtaking the measurement, cut thedivider to length, and slip it intoplace. Make sure all the front edgesofthe carcase are flush, and thattheback edge of the divider meets therabbet shoulders in the back of thetop and bottom.

While the carcase is together,make a jig for drilling the shelf pegholes, and drill the holes in thedivider and one side (Figure 1). Atthis time it's also a good idea to drillcountersunk pilot holes for screwingthe top and bottom to the divider.

Now comes the awkward part, socall a friend and get some long pipeclamps ready. Take the carcase apartand spread yellow glue in the dividerdadoes. With the top and bottompanels standing on their back edge,slip the divider into the dadoes andscrew the assembly together.

Next, put glue in the corner jointdadoes and clamp the sides to the car-case. Double-check for square. Ifound that cutting the back for a snugfit and setting it into the carcase alsohelps square the cabinet.

Back Joint Detail

Divider Joint Detail

Use depth stopon'la" bit

44

Applying Bonding SrripsFor the sake of durability and appear-ance, I covered all the front edges ofthe plywood with 1/8rr thick solidcherry banding. Ripping bandingstrips is simple enough, but be sureto use a pushblock and a feather-board to prevent kickback (Figure 2).

Gluing banding to the carcasecan take a while, so I recommendusing liquid hide glue, which has along setting time. As you mounteach strip (Figure 3), gently rub itback and forth until the glue grabs,then align it with the inside surfaceof the plywood panel wheneverpossible. Protect the banding withscrap wood pads and apply clamp-ing pressure.

I cut the banding for the top andbottom just a hair long. This causedthe banding to bow about l/arr whenthe pieces were installed. But oncethe clamps were tightened, thesepieces sprung against the side panelbanding, resulting in very tight joints.

Use a hand plane, cabinet scraper,

and sandpaper to even the bandingwith the plywood surfaces. Thebanding should be flush with bothsides of the plywood panels.

Glue Up the Folse TopEven though I used plyvvood for thecarcase, I felt that a solid cherry topwould look better. I selected fourhandsome boards, and glued themedge to edge in pairs. Biscuits werehelpful for aligning the boards dur-ing the glueups. After the glue dried,I lightly planed each pair by runningthem through my thickness planer.Then, I glued the two pairs together.

After the false top is cut to size, youcan prepare your tablesaw for cuttingthe large chamfers on the false top'sends and front edge (see the FalseTop Detail ). To balance such a largepanel on edge, I did two things. First,I made a 72tt tall auxiliary fence tocover the sav/s rip fence. And second,I screwed &2r x $n to the underside ofthe panel before each cut (Figure 4).

Now tilt the blade 8', set the fence\/2" from the blade, and raise theblade so it just barely sticks out ofthe top as it cuts. If you're workingin a basement shop with a low ceil-ing, you may have to jockey yourtable saw so the panel fits betweentwo floor joists.

Take your time cutting the largechamfers, then use a hand heldrouter and a chamfering bit to formthe smaller chamfers along the top.

As you know, solid wood moveswith changes in moisture content,

and fastening the false top to thecarcase must allow for this

movement. I prefer to securethe false top to the carcase

To rip thin banding strips evenly and safely,use a oush block and featherboard. You canmake both accessories in minutes,

Use this sequence to glue banding to thefront edges of the carcase. Keep waste tooutside, then plane and sand the edges,

with screws. Screws along the backof the assembly keep the false topstationary, while screws slippedthrough slots along the front of thecarcase give way when the false topmoves (see the Screw Detail).

To form the slots, first drill a seriesof small holes in a line, then blendthe holes together with a smallround file. After completing the slots,position the false top on the carcase,and drill pilot holes - be sure to usea depth stop on your drill bit to avoiddrilling too deeply.

Screwing a 2" x 6" to the underside of the top makes cutting thechamfer easy, The high fence also aids stability.

Chamfers on the toD and bottom helo define thefalse top. Use the tablesaw to make the largechamfer, and a router to make the small one.

Screws in sloh in the carcasetop allow the false top toexoand and contract.

False Top Detail Screw Detail

I7orkbench t February 1997 +>

BaseView

Conshuction

Building the BsseThis project was starting to fill myshop, and I needed room to build thebase. I heard my neighbor's car pull

into his driveway. So I talked himinto helping me move the carcase.

Once I had some elbow room, Ibegan sizing stock for the legs. Afterthe stock was prepared, I laid out the

Rout 1/+" mortises into the legs for the railtenons. Be sure to mark the mortise posi-tions carefully to avoid enor.

Use a straight or up-cutting spiral bit to routthe leg mortises, Avoid stressing the bit byrouting a series of 1/+" deep passes.

W'orkbench t February 1997

Chamfer outside edges of

#20 Biscuit

mortises (Figure 5). For clarity, markthe mortise locations on the end ofeach leg. This will help you align thestock with the bit. I also clamped astop block to the router table fence sothat every mortise ended up thesame length €igure 6).

Now, rout the mortises with aseries of shallow passes. using a 1/+"

straight or spiral bit. A final depth ofts/tutt will easily accommodate therail tenons, which are 3/+rr long.Before moving on, rout chamfers onthe bottoms of each leg.

Next, rip and crosscut all the rails,then form the tenons using a 34"

wide dado blade €igure 7). Clamp asetup block to the fence to make therepeat cuts. As always, form a tenonin scrap stock first, and make sure itfits properly in a mortise. After cut-ting the tenon cheeks, adjust theblade and cut each tenon's bottomshoulder (Figure 7).

Like you did with the carcase, I

The thicknesses of the tenons on the railsshould be 1/4", but to assure a tight fit, makecuts on scrao wood first.

suggest putting the base togetherwithout glue, then measuring forthe end and center braces. Cut thebraces to fit, and cut notches in eachend brace so they can wrap aroundthe legs (see the Base ConstructionView). Slip all the braces into thebase and mark locations for the bis-cuit joints. Cut the biscuit slots afterdisassembling the base.

Gluing the base together is bestaccomplished in a series of smallsteps. Start by gluing the end rails tothe legs, then add the end braces.Drill a pilot hole, then drive a #8,211flathead wood screw diagonallythrough the brace into the leg (seethe End Brace Detail). Clamp eachassembly, and let the glue dry.

After unclamping the end assem-blies, use biscuits and glue to jointhe center braces with the front andback rails. Lightly clamp this assem-bly while gluing the front and backrails into the leg mortises. Now,clamp the entire base, making sureit's flat and square. Leave it undis-turbed while the glue dries.

Adding the CorcqseHaving the base completed is anexciting step, because now the car-case and the base can be broughttogether. Before setting the carcasein place, however, give your 45"chamfering bit another workout byrouting the outside edges of thebase assembly.

It's important for the base to sitlevel on the floor when you attachthe carcase. This will ensure thatthe completed cabinet will be levelwhen it reaches its new home. Setthe base on your shop's floor and, ifnecessary, slide shims under itsfeet. Use your longest level to checkthe base., then position the carcaseon the base. By now, your friend maybe wondering if this will ever end.

Slide under the cabinet, and drillpilot holes through the four braces inthe base and into the carcase. Besure to wrap tape around the bit tomark the hole depth, or you may drillthrough the bottom panel of the car-case. Countersink the holes, andscrew the assemblies together.

Rail lengths include3/a" long tenon on

each end.

End Brace Detail

By clamping a stop block to thefence, you can limit the

T

ilI'ilt-r lk--

Boftom3/q"

46

Door Construction ViewOne Minor Detoil

With the carcase and base nowjoined together, it s a good time tostep back from the heavy dutybuilding chores and wrap up a smalldetail. I made shelves using cherryplywood and banding strips. Cuttheplywood pieces for the shelves a lit-tle longer than needed and gluebanding sfrips to their front edge.After the glue dries, plane and sandthe banding flush with the plywoodsurfaces, and cut the shelves totheir final length.

Just in caseyou think I nevermakemistakes, let me tell you that I blew iton one of my shelves. I forgot to dou-ble check my miter gauge to makesure it was cutting square to theblade. Consequently, the first shelf Icut to length was out of square.Trimming the shelf square made ittoo short. Well, live and learn.

Building the DoorIt used to be that making frame andpanel doors with cope and stick join-ery was done only by professionals.It required a shaper and some verylarge cutters. With the new routerbit sets designed for use on routertables, all that has changed.

To make my cabinet door, I used atwopiece router bit set that includedone bit for cutting the ends of therails, and another bit for routing theinside edges of the stiles and rails(Amana no. 55420). For details onthis process, take a look atCope andStick loinE on page 39.

After cutting the door frame joints,I assembled the pieces without glueto check the fit. If you take time toset up the bits properly, you won'thave any surprises at this point.

As for the door panel, I looked forr/ztt cherry plywood with two goodsides. Failing to find any, I decided tomake my own by laminating two Varlthick pieces of cherry plywood, withthe best side ofeach piece facing out.

Cutting the plywood a little over-size will give you a margin of erro4and ifs easy enough to trim the lami-nation to size after the glue dries.

Once the panel is sized, you'llhave to rabbet the edges so that it

can fit into the door frame's Varlgrooves (Frgure 8). Cutthe rabbetswide enough to allow a L/rctt gapbetween the door frame and therabbet shoulders.

Another dry fitting of all the doorparts will show whether you man-aged to get this gap just right. If allis well, glue and clamp the doorparts together. I recommend usingjust a spot of glue in the railgrooves at the center of the panel.This will keep the panel centeredin the frame.

Mounting the DoorMaking the door pulls is simpleenough (see Making The Pulls onpage 49). As for the European stylehinges, their installation requires aprecise layout and accurate holeboring (Figure 9). But nothingthat's all that difficult. You'll need a35 mm. hinge boring bit and a drillpress for the installation. Be sure tocenter the hole 7/stt fuom the edgeof the door. In a pinch, a l\/a'Forstner bit will do the job, but thehole will be slightly wide.

IVe used Blum hinges for manysimilar applications with greatresults. This time I chose a clipstylehinge that opens a full 125". The clipstyle hinge allows you to mount thehinge cup to the door, and themounting plate to the carcase, thensnap them together. Ifs animprovement over olderEuropean style hinges,which often required a bitof juggling to completethe installation.

I'm kind of fussy, and Ilike an even gap aroundthe door on all sides. Onetrick I use to help set thisgap is to put quartersunder the door after it hasbeen slipped into the cabi-net. Now the hinge loca-tions in the door can betransferred to the carcasefor an exact fit. A combi-nation square is the idealtool for marking the cen-terline of each hingemounting plate location.

2/2" x347/e"

Rabbet the back edges of fte door panol wltla 3/s" rabb€flng blt, The panel should flt thegrooves In fie door ralls and stlles snugly,

Stile3A,'X2Vz,, X347/e,'

Stile3/a" x

European hinges require precise layouh. Mark fie centerof the cup hole on the back of fie door, and line thls upwih the cenhr of fie hinge plate in the cabinet.

Rail3/c" x4" x153/a"

\?'orkbench I February 1997 47

Drawer Construction ViewFalse fronts#1 and #2 _ 3/4" x511A6" x295/8''#3 - 3/4" x611A6" x295/8''#4 and #5 -3/4" \ 711A6" x2g5/8''

SideVz" x5%" x'183/a"

/,

BottomBanding %" x18" x28/2"1/s" x3/a" xg11l6"

Drawer frontVz" x5%" x29"

/a" x3/q" x297/s"

The widths listed above for the drawer front, back and sides are fordrawers #1 and #2. The others are shown in Figure 1 0 at right.

Center groovein lowest tail.

saw and raise the blade 5/rorr. Adjustyour fence so that the groove is cen-tered in the lowest tail on the sides.That way, the groove won't show onthe outside of the completed drawer.

I ran through a dry assembly ofthe drawers to check the fit of all thejoints. This also gave me the oppor-tunity to measure and verify the sizeI needed for the 1/+rr maple plywooddrawer bottoms.

I took the drawers apart, thencarefully drilled the holes in eachfront for mounting the false frontslater. With my drill press, I was ableto set up for repetitivehole drilling with aminimum amount ofmeasuring.

To assemble thedrawers, begin by glu-ing the front and backto one side. Then, slipthe bottom into thegrooves. Add the otherside, and clamp. Makesure that every draweris flat and square. Addthe false fronts andnulls later.

Sfock of DrowersWhenever I make drawers, the firstquestion that comes to mind is: whatkind of joinery should I use?Traditional cabinets usually featuredovetailed drawers, but hand cuttingdovetails is very time consuming,and seemed unnecessary in thiscase. Instead, I used my router and adovetail jig to rout half-blind dovetailjoints. Many inexpensive jiss willwork for this purpose. I made a jigfrom a Woodsmith kit, and used aTrorrguide bushing in my router.

I made the drawer boxes out ofr/zr thick soft maple - an inexpen-sive wood suitable for cabinet partsthat aren't seen much. The top twodrawers are identical in size, the mid-dle drawer is 7s'r deeper, and the twomatching bottom drawers are deeperstill (Figure 10).

Rip all the drawer pieces to width,then measure the width of the draw-er opening in your carcase. Cut thedrawer fronts and backs exactly illshorter than the opening to allowroom for the drawer slides.

Every type of dovetail jig has itsindividual quirks, so it's a good ideato practice cutting dovetails on somescrap wood before you get going onthe drawer pieces. I know I've gonethrough my share of wood setting upthese sorts ofjigs.

The drawer bottoms fit intogrooves that run around the inside ofeach drawer. To make the grooves,set up a 1/+tr dado blade on your table

'Workbench t Febrrary 7997

Dimensions shown are to bottom of drawerslides. Carefuly install the slides at the sameheight on each side of the carcase.

I mounted the drawers in the car-case using Blum 18rr slides, markingall the mounting locations as shownin Figure 10. Then, I attached theslides to the carcase and drawers,starting at the bottom of the case.

False Front Detail Apply banding to theedges prior to cutting

false fronts.

Cut a 297e" x 36" panel,and band the edges. Then rip To provide athe panel into the five false frontsand band the ends.

You don't have to be a master crafts-man to cut dovetails when you

good edge for ripping,keep banding back/2".

48

have a router and a jig.

Moking Drqwer FrontsBecause I wanted the grain patternon the drawer fronts to look contin-uous, I selected an attractive area ona pl5,-lvood sheet, and centered thepattern (see False Front Detail).

As a time saving technique, Iglued 1,/s" banding to the edges ofthe panel. When I glued on thebanding, I stopped each strip aboutlfzr from the end. After the gluedried, I scraped and sanded thebanding flush with the plywood.

I rippecl the false fronts to widthby following the dirnensions in theDrawer Construction View. Afterthey were sized, it was a sin-rplematter of adding banding to the topand bottom edges to complete thefalse fronts.

Ideally, the space between eachdrawer should be 1/rr;". But wood-working projects are seldom perfect.I double-checked and had to make afew adjustments. I started with thebottom drawer, rnarking the positionof the drawer on the back of the falsefront. I then removed the drawer,clan-rped on the false front, anddrove the screws. I followed thisprocess for each drawer, from thebottom to the top.

Ar fte Finish lineWith the construction cornpleted,there were fwo remaining steps.The first was the finish. Afterremoving the hardware, I lightlysanded the entire cabinet with 220-grit sandpaper, and applied threecoats of varnish.

I called my neighbor to help withthe second step; a final visit to movethe chest of drawers into a bedroom.[4ren it was in place, I could see hewas relieved, and also impressed.

He began poring over the cabinet,inspecting every joint, skimrning hishand over the finish, and noting theuse of ply'wood and solid wood inthe construction. Before long I wasanswering all sorts ofquestions, andI could tell. now that he was seeingthe completed project, he wanted tobuild one for himself. Once he sawthe dovetailed drawers, I knew hewas hooked. tEEil-

Making The PullsI decided to make tfiFpulls bottom of the flat (Figure 3). Chuck a

Each will yield four handles. Rip edges of each handle (Figure 4).

before tackling the drawers.Begin by ripping 3/+rr thick stock

into three blanks measuring 6rr x 14rr.

bevels on the edges of each blank(Figure 1). Be sure to leave a3f rcttflatalong each edge. Then, square theblade, reset the fence, and rip thehandles from the blank (Figure 2).

Crosscut the handles to 6rr inlength, then bevel each end to the

Drawer Pull Elevations

Test this setup on scrap stock until you getthe fence adjusted just right to produce thebevel on each pull.

Crosscut pulls to length, then set the mitergauge at 5'and trim the pulls with the topedge against the miter gauge.

45" chamfer bit into your table-mounted router, and machine a 1/rorl

chamfer along the top ends and

I completed the handles by sand-ing them lightly to preserve thecrispness ofthe angled cuts

Each pull needs 74a" pilot holes,3/+" deep, one inch from each end.Atlach them from the inside of thedrawer with #8 ' 2rr FFIWS.

t- Rout 45'chamfer,/ along ends and edges.

End View

.- --Yi FJi-'zu"l l tV I '

Rip the pulls on the outboard side 0f theblade, away from the fence. This will avoidany chance of kickback.

Rout a chamfer around the top edges of thepulls, only 1/16" deep to knock off the sharpedges. Sand lightly to retain crisp edges.

3/q'l

49

Top View

Set fence to avoid breakingthis slo" wide area.

Set blade 17e". h iqh .

Tilt bladeq o

Rip pulls on the outboardside ot the blade so they

won't be pinched betweenthe blade and fence.

\Workbench t February 7997

The Desk ClockThe fuspiration for this clock

sprangfrom a unique source.The beauffil curly maple

usedfor the front and back wasgiven to me by a friend after he builta stunning reproduction of anantique grandfather clock. I visitedhis shop as he was completing workon the clock and preparing to give itto'his wife on her birthday. He wasproud of his work, and rightfully so,for he is a fine craftsman. Not thatevery joint was perfect, or thatthere weren't things he would

50 Vorkbench r February 1997

change if he made the clock again.In fact, in my eyes, the minor flawsmade his effort seem more human.

Well, I've made a short story into along one only to tell you how thispiece of wood came into my hands.And now you also know why using itin a clock is so meaningful to me. '

Eorly ConsiderotionsWhenever I start a new project, I doa performance check on my tablesaw. I make sure that the saw bladeis parallel with the fence, that theblade is square to the table, and themiter gauge is square to the blade.

Once you're confident in your sau/saccuracy, you can start cutting theclock's parts to size.

Begin by cutting 3/arr thick cherrystock for the crown, base, and sides.For the top and bottom, cut r/zn

thick cherry, and you'll need %"thick stock for the filler. If you don'thave r/ztt and r/rt' cherry on hand,you can resaw 34rr thick material -a process I'll explain shortly. Thelast cherry pieces you'll need arethe tr/zn thick columns, which Imade by gluing 34r' thick cherrytogether face to face. I used thecurly maple for the front and back.

Desk Clock Consfruction View0VERALL SIZE: 5" x 93/a" x 11"

D E S K C L o C KA kit has been assembled for thisproject that includes the movement,clock hands, and brass rods.O r d e r n u m b e r 3 3 0 l 2 0 O . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 1 2 . 9 5

To Order Call (8O0) 3r1-3994

TopVz" x3%" x71/q"

Side3/q" x31/q" x10"

Crown3/a" x5" x93A"

Fil lerY4" x3\z" x8Y4"

(Cut brass rod fornumeral markersfour are 3/a" dia.,eight are 7e" dia.

Resowing rhe FillerResawing is the process of rippingthick stock into thinner material.You can resaw with a band saw, butwith stock this small and narrow,I've found that a table saw does thejob quickly and easily. The key is tomake multiple shallow passes ineach edge of the stock until thekerfs meet in the middle.

Iock the fence on your table sawfor a cut slightly thicker than youneed. Raise the blade about 1/zrr high,and slice both edges (Figure 1). Keepthe same face of the board againstthe fence for each cut - this ensuresthat the cuts are aligned.

Raise the blade a little for eachpass, until l/arr or so remains betweenthe kerfs. Now separate the piecesusing a handsaw, and cleanup thesurfaces with a hand plane.

Clockmovement

Front3/q" x 4lz" x9/2"

Cutting ChqmfersBefore getting into the real meat ofthis project - cutting all thegrooves and rabbets - I decided tochamfer the crown and base while astandard blade was still in the tablesaw. You've already cut these piecesto size, so now tilt the saw blade

/2" x3%" x71/q"

3/4" x3%" x10''

-_ Base3/q" x5" x93/q"

22\/z' and set the fence 1,/z'r fromthe blade (Figure 2). Cut chamferson the ends of the stock first, thencut the edges. The reason I followthis sequence is because the bladeoften tears out the wood on the endcuts. Cutting the edges thenremoves any tear out.

-P:,ry Rubber washer

I Bottot

When resawing, cut into both edges of thestock until the kerfs are 1/4" apart. For safety,use a pushstick as the blade gets higher.

Use your tablesaw to cut chamfers on thecrown and base. For safety, keep the bladeprojection to a minimum.

O ^ o

'Workbench r Febrtary 1997 5r

Grooves qnd RobbetsBuilding the clock calls for cutting avariety of rabbets and grooves (seethe elevations below). These areeasily machined with a table sawand a stack dado blade set. Thistype of dado blade leaves squareedges, which is important for get-ting tight fitting joints.

Install a3l+rr dado blade inyour sawfor cutting a groove in each side. Tocenter these grooves, set the fence asaccurately as you can using a tapemeasure, and make a pass over theblade. Then turn the stock end forend and run it over the blade again.Your grooves may end up a tad widerIhan 3 / +'1, but you can easily machinethe tongue on each column to fit.

Cutting the rabbets at each end ofthe sides is done with the sameblade. By clamping a setup block toyour rip fence, you can limit thewidth of cutto r/ztt and ensure con-sistent results (Figure 3).

For cutting the grooves in the topand bottom, switch to a %rr wide

Front/Back Elevations

End View

dado blade. Rip these grooves, thenclamp a wooden face to the fence forcutting rabbets on the columns (toform the tongues). The wooden facewill protect the fence from the bladeduring these cuts. Make several passes to form the tongues by moving thefence in small amounts away fromthe blade between passes. Checkyour progress until the tongues fitperfectly into the grooves.

Now, assemble the clock withoutglue and measure the openings forthe front and back. Even though theFront/Back Elevations give mea-surements for the rabbets, youshould adjust the width of the cuts ifyour clock is different from mine.Keep in mind that the back needs tofit a little loosely so it can be taken inand out. This is also a good time tomake sure all the pieces go together

./ilrkI I

Use a shck dado set to make rabbeb wlth square corneni, For dependable, consistent resulb,clamp a setup block to your rip fence. This wil assure that all rabbeh are the same size.

Drills/sz"countersunk

pilot hole

Countersinkholes in

bottom only

Side Elevations Column Elevations

End ViewEno vlew >l 1w'F

..^*^:+m 'Ll+,,EdgeView il" \%u

-3/o'_;(t l+-31/4'-4 ,r3/4'

I ITIIltrI ,J I Frontview J, I.-*

IIltrfV lI rl

_-lE"r,r- t)fToplBottom Elevations End View

l-v/q"4 -w

3/e" RadiusFrontView Side View

View

k-o^'-

52 \Workbench t February 1997

as they should, and to make correc-tions if they're needed.

Cut the rabbets around the frontand back pieces to fit your clock.Check the fit of the pieces in theassembly and recut if necessary. Onthe back, I sanded the surfaces ofthe tongues until they slid in and outof the grooves easily.

The Clock FoceDrilling holes for the clock face ismostly a layout challenge (see theFront/Back Elevations). Take yourtime and use an awl to mark thehole locations so your bits won'twander when you drill the holes.

The brass rods I used for the clocknumeral locators will age to a hand-some patina, just as the cherry andcurly maple will become more beau-tiful with age. Cut short pieces fromthe rods with a hacksaw and epoxythem into the holes. Then file thebrass level with the wood. I found outthe hard way that belt sanding thebrass produces burn marks.

Finql DetsilsLike other figured woods, curlymaple is brittle and tends to chipwhen it's routed. So I suggest that

7sz" Pilot hole,

#8x1/2"

fr rxwsTP

Secure the bottom, top and filler to thecolumns with glue and screws. The screw-heads will be hidden bythe crown and base.

you make a series of shallow passeswhen rounding over the edges of thefront and back (see the Front/BackElevations). Use a 3/srr roundover bitin your router table for this step.

Drilling the ilr finger hole in theback is best done with a drill press.Be sure to back up the maple withscrap wood to prevent tearout.

AssemblySand all the clock pieces prior to thefinal assembly. And don't hesitate tosand curly maple with every grit upto 220. This is how you'll bring outthe maple's unique glow.

Begin assembling the clock bygluing the sides to the columns, bot-tom, top and front. Make sure theassembly is square before tighten-ing the clamps.

Now hold the filler in position anddrill two countersunk pilot holesthrough the top and into thecolumns. Secure the filler with glueand screws @igure 4). Follow thesame procedure for securing thebottom to the columns.

Gluing the crown and base tothe assembly could be a little trickywithout one preliminary step. Itapped brads partially into the bot-

tom and filler, then used wire cuttersto cut them so less than 1/rorr stuckout of the wood (see the CrownDetail). Next, I positioned the crownand base on the clock assembly andpressed them against the brads toindent the wood. After spreadingglue on the bottom and filler, Ireplaced the crown and base on theclock in the same position I hadthem before. The clipped bradsmated with the indents in the crownand base to prevent the pieces fromslipping under clamping pressure.

Wropping UpA hand-rubbed oil finish broughtout the beauty of the wood in myclock. To get a satin luster, apply thecoats of finish with wet-and-drysandpaper, beginning with 320 eritand ending with 600. Don't forget tofinish the inside of the clock. too.

The instructions that come withthe clock movement make it easy toinstall. But before you add the movement, buff the last bits of sawdust offyour clock. As I completed this finalstep, I again thought of my friend'sclock, and how a piece ofwood canunite two projects - and the peoplewho builtthem.U

Clipped brads keep thecrown from shifting underclamping pressure.

'Workbench t February 1997 53

A Portable Workbenchsomewhere in the house, and you

Tell me if this happens to you. would be annoyrns enough, but itYott're working on a project happens to me all the time.

Sometimes it seems like I spendmore time walking than working.

I got to thinking how ridiculouslyinefficient this marathon is, andhow simple it would be to solve. Themissing piece is a workbench thatcan be moved easily to the job site.With a sturdy bench nearby, I couldhandle routine woodworking opera-tions quickly, accurately, and with-out unnecessarily wearing out myshoes - or my temper.

haue to trim a board to length.You can't figure out how to hold theboard firmly, so you lug it back tothe shop, clamp it to your work-bench, make the cut, and trudge onback to the job site. Then the fit isn'texactly right, so you have to makethe whole round trip again. If thishappened just once in a while it

'Workbench t F ebruary 1997

AdvontogesA portable workbench still has topass muster, or it won't help get thejob done. It has to be rigid, sturdy,and large enough to support a vari-ety of workpieces. Plus, it has toknockdown easily.

My design satisfies all thoserequirements. And I built it usingcommon materials from the buildingcenter: standard framing lumber,hardboard, one sheet of medium-density fiberboard MDF), a vise,and some hardware.

54

l l .

lit i

Vise

1lq" x 4"Bolt

Upper support3/4" x1" x10Y2''

lil l .t l

l iLower supp0rt3/4" x2" x10Y2''

Upper rail1 % " x 4 % " x 2 2 "

6-

&

Portable Workbench Construction View0VERALL SIZE:25112,," 33172,, x 60,,(Dimensions do not include vise or levelers.)

Top1/2" x24" x58lz"

' Banding3/q" x1Y2" x25Y2"

Half-lap joinery in the leg assem-blies provides great strength andrigidity, and the use of hex headbolts and T-nuts allow quick assem-bly and disassembly of the bench.

Besides the broad work surface,the feature I use most is the vise.It's not as healy-duty as the one inmy shop, but for on-site work it'smore than sufficient.

Building fhe leg FromesTo get your portable workbenchunderway, I recommend startingconstruction on the leg assemblies.To keep the cost and weight down, Ibuilt mine using common softwoodframing lumber. Select 2rr ' 4rr stockfor the legs and stretchers, and

Leg 1/2" x 3" x 32"

1/q" x20Pronged T-nut

Leg leveler

2rr r 6rr stock for the rails. For now,cut the pieces an inch or so longerthan their final size.

All of us who work with construc-tion grade lumber know it can berough, and the width often varies.But a workbench is more refinedthan the framing for a wall, so Iwanted crisp, uniformly sizedwood. Therefore, to square up thestock, I ran one edge of each pieceover my jointer, then trimmed theopposite edge on the table saw. Isuggest doing this to your leg andrail stock now. But leave thestretchers until later, after complet-ing a few other preliminary steps.Once you've squared these pieces,cut them to length.

upper Isupport

Banding3/q" x1Y2" x60"

Stretcher1Vz" x3" x42"

Hardboardcatch

,;;;;;;;

Stabilizer3/4" x11/2" x37''

P O R T A B L E W o R x a E I \ c HA kit has been assembled for this projectthat includes the draw catches, leglevelers, and l/,trr T-nuts.Ordcr numbcr3301300. . . . . . . s16.9sYou can also order the Record 7-in. vise.O r c l e r n u n r b c ' r 1 3 0 : 1 1 2 5 . . . . . . . . .

To order, call (aOO) 3f l-3994

s39.95

As I mentioned, the leg framesare held together with half-lapjoints. Half-laps are one of the sim-plest joints to cut and fit. And. withthe addition of both glue andscrews, they provide plenff ofstrength for this application.

As the name implies, the depthof each half-lap should equal halfthe thickness of each joint mem-ber. Although these half-laps arewider than any dado blade, makingmultiple passes with a 1/2tt wideblade goes quickly enough. Installthe blade in your table saw and,before ever cutting into your actu-al project stock, cut halfJaps into aspare 2rr t 4rr unti l you have theblade height set perfectly.

'lYz" x 4Yz" x22"

Vorkbench t February 7997 55

Bolts and T-nuts providesolid connections

that assembleeasily and knock

down fast. -a

I

kg Assembly Elevation

from the blade and make a secondpass, and so on, until your cutoutssnugly fit the width of the lower rail.

Now set the fence and cut thehalf-lap in each leg for the upper rail.After you complete the leg cuts, cuthalf-laps at the ends of the rails.

Moking fhe StrefchersYou might think that 2rr x 4rrs alonewould be sufficient for the stretchers.I found out the hard way that they'renot. When I first built my workbenchI just notched 2rr x 4rrs and fit theminto the leg frames. Then I pushed alittle on one frame, and heard a snapas some of the small tips at the endsof the stretchers broke. That little bitof long grain in the tips just couldn'thold up to any stress.

So I went back to the drawingboard and came up with the ideayou see in this plan (see theStretcher Detail on page 58). Bysandwiching the 2rr x 4rrs betweenpieces of 1/s" thick hardboard, Ireinforced the small tips and addedlots of rigidity to the stretchers over-all. This construction has proven tobe very strong on my workbench.

Rip a half dozen 3r/2" wide stripsof hardboard and glue them to thelumber you selected earlier for thestretchers. Since I have a limitednumber of clamps, I grouped allthree assemblies into one largesandwich and clamped them at the

Upper Rail Elevaton

Front View End View

-- -Upperrail

I-owerHalf-Lap

tt9 -.

RailDetail

End View'3/,"

- l *l N l4%"f$lY N l

> l <1Yz")

-..-- Lower rail

same time. I recommend usingscrap 2rr x 4rr pads to protect the out-side of the sandwich and helpspread the clamping pressure even-ly on the assembly. Using waxedpaper between each stretcher willkeep them from accidentally bond-ing to each other.

Clean off any excess glue once itdries to a rubbery consistency. Aputty knife will usually do a fine job.

Next, joint one edge of each stretch-er and trim the opposite edge on thetable saw. The final width is 3rr.

Rqil ond Stretcher NolchesNotches in the rails and stretcherscombine to make another set of half-lap joints. Cutting these notches iseasily done with a standard blade inyour table saw - just make multipleDasses to remove the waste.

Cutting half-laps is easily done wifi a dadoblade. Raise the blade to hatf the thickness offie stock and make multiple pases.

Continue ignoring the stretchersfor the time being and focus on cut-ting half-laps in the legs and rails (see

the Upper Rail and bwer Rail Half-tap Details). lay out the half-lap loca-tions on the legs (see the LegAssembly Elevation) and cut thejoints. Begin with the half-lap for thelower rail joint. Clamp a set up blockto the fence and cut the lower shoul-der of each half-lap first (Figure 1).Then, move the fence a little further

\Workbench t F ebruary 199756

Iay out the notches on the upperand lower rails and set the height ofthe blade (see the Upper and lnwerRail Elevations on page 56). Whileyou're at it, lay out the notches onthe stretchers as well (see theStretcher Detail). Cut notches in therails first, checking their fit on astretcher after every pass until thefit is snug. I recommend cutting oneend of each notch with your firstpass, then nibbling your way onpass at a time to the other end.Complete the rail notches and moveright into the stretcher cuts.

Drilling Accurote HolesThe sfetcher-to-rail joints are thecenffal knockdown feature of thisworkbench. Each of these joints isheld together with a bolt and a ?nut. The key to making this systemwork is accurately boring the holesfor the bolts so they pass throughthe rails and stretchers easily. Holesthat aren't plumb or square to thejoints will bind the bolts and causefrustration - you'Il have to messwith a hammer for driving the boltsinto place, and you'll need a pair ofpliers to pull them out.

Begin by marking centerpointsfor the holes on the back edge of thesfetchers. Make sure the mark isdirecfly opposite the center of eachnotch (see the Sfetcher Detail).Next, using a drill press and, a 3/+tl

bit (a Forstner bit works best), drillcounterbores 3/4rr deep. Then,change to a 5/rorr brad-point bit, anddrill the rest of the way through thesfretchers (Figure 2). Don't forget

Stretcher Detail

Glue on 7e" hardboardto reinforce stretchers,

Cut notches after stretcherand hardboard are assembled.

to back up your stretcher notcheswith a piece of scrap wood, whichwill minimize the chance of tear outas the bit exits the wood.

For future reference. I used anindelible marker to write a numberon each joint member so I couldalways put them together in the sameorder. After marking the pieces, posi-tion the stretchers on the rails.

Now, you can mark the hole loca-tions on the rails. Remove the sAorl

drill bit from the drill press and putit through a hole in the sfetcher.Then, tap itgentlywith a hammer tomark a centerpoint. Repeat this pro-cedure for each joint.

Next, rechuck the 5Aorrbit in yourdrill press and bore the holesthrough the rails. Here again,remember to position scrap woodunder the workpiece to preventtearout. After drilling the holes, drivea T-nut into position (Figure 3).

'7f'--

CullVz" x1Vz"notch 1" from end,

leg Frcme AssemblyI always enjoy the assembly part ofmy projects. This is the time whenall my hard work pays off, and thepieces slip together perfectly (or atleast they do in my dreams).

Assembling the leg frames foryour workbench is a very staight-forward operation. First, clamp therails and legs together, making surethe assemblies are square. Then,drill countersunk pilot holes for fourscrews at each halfJap joint (see thelcgAssembly Elevation on page 56).

Now, remove the clamps from theframes and spread glue on thejoints. After repositioning thepieces, drive a screw into each half-lap and check the assemblies forsquare (Figure 4). Once you're sat-isfied that everything is set, drivethe remaining screws and lay theframes aside for a few hours whilethe glue dries.

For each strebher h ralllolnt, drlll the coun-terbore first, ften drill the 5/ro" pilot hole, Usea drill pres to accurately align these holes.

\Torkbench I February 1997

Tap a pronged T-nut Inh fte hole In fie bothmedge of each uppr and loruer nall, The T-nubprwide sfrong connections for fie hex bolb.

Spread glue on the half-lap joinb and drlveone screw inb each Jolnt. Square fie assem-bly, fien drive the remalnlng screws,

58

Shelf Detail

:/+" x 20 Pronged T-nut

Rout /+" x 45' chamfer along endsand edges of accessory shelf,

Moking the TopBuilding a top like I did requirestwo layers of medium density fiber-board MDF). This construction isvery solid, and does not allow much"bounce" - an important qualitywhenever you're banging on yourworkbench with a mallet or ham-mer. The downside is weight -MDF is heavy. For a lighter, butbouncier, top, you can use plywoodor a single thickness of MDR

Attach shelf stabilizerswith #8 x 17a FHWS.

If you decide you want a top likemine, cut two MDF panels about %rllarger than their final size, then layone panel on top of the other. Now,drill countersunk pilot holes in rowsabout 10rr apart along the length ofthe panels. After drilling all the pilotholes, separate the panels and spreadglue on both pieces. A short-nappedpaint roller will make quick work ofthis chore. Reposition the panels anddrive #8 ' lfarr screws into the holes.

In a few hours, after the gluedries, trim the top assembly to sizeand rip the maple edge banding.Cut the banding to length, miter theends, then glue and nail it to theMDF - be sure to drill pilot holesfor the finishing nails. Routingchamfers on the edges gives the topa finished look.

The Accessory ShelfCut the remaining MDF to size forthe shelf (see the Shelf Detail). Irouted chamfers on the edges tomatch the workbench top.

The shelf sits on the lower stretch-er with help provided by a pair of sta-bilizers - they keep the shelf fromslipping off the stretcher. Cut2r x 4trstock to size for the stabilizers and,for good looks, chamfer the edgeson one surface of each piece.

Now, lay the shelf upsidedownand center the lower sfetcher on it.Once you're sure the sbetcher isperfectly centered, clamp thesfetcher to the shelf and set the sta-bilizers alongside. I like to slip play-ing cards between the stretcher andthe stabilizers to allow a small mar-gin for wood expansion and to easethe fit. Drill countersunk pilot holesinto each stabilizer, then glue andscrew them to the shelf.

Finol AssemblyDrill holes forT:nuts into the bottomof each leg. Tap them into place, thenadd the leg levelers. Erecting theworkbench is now a simple matter ofconnecting the leg frames with thesffetchers, then adding the top andshelf. Begin by slipping the sfetch-ers into the notches in the leg framerails and tightening the bolts. Thebase assembly should now feel solid.

Next, lay the top upsidedown andcenter the base on it (see the TopElevation). Cut 2n x 4rr stock for thesupports, and screw the upper support to the top after drilling counter-sunk pilot holes (see the Supportpstail). Set the lower supports intoposition and screw them to the legframes. Install the catches and youhave an ideal knockdown mecha-nism for the bench top.

Top Elevation

W'orkbench t February 1997 59

The ViseWhile the workbench is still turnedupside-down, you can easily installthe vise. The model I chose doeshave a couple of features thatrequire some accommodation onthe bench top. But once thesedetails are completed, the vise willbe flush with the surface of the top,allowing an unobstructed space forlaying a sheet of plywood or a door.

The first item to attend to is aspacer. The spacer positions the topedge of the vise jaws flush with thebench top surface. The spacerthickness in this plan allows for twolayers of MDF in the top. You willneed a thicker spacer if you made asingle layered top.

Machine the spacer to size, thenposition it with the vise on theunderside of the top. Now you willnotice the second accommodationfor installing the vise. The back ofthe rear vise jaw is slanted. So toinstall the back tight against thebench top, you'll need to excavate ashallow mortise. Use a knife tomark the vise location on the band-ing, then remove the waste withchisels. Be sure to slant the mortiseto match the shape of the vise.

Now, press the vise tightly intothe mortise and drill pilot holes forthe lag screws that hold the vise andspacer to the top. I recommendusing a stop collar on your drill bitto make sure you don't drill throughthe top. Secure the vise to the topand turn the project right side up.

7*--. \---t.

r ' ) \

/ Workbench

size soacer to top

Wropping UpThis workbench doesn'tqualify as a piece of fine furni-ture, but after all the work I put intoit, applying a couple coats ofvarnishseemed more than justified. Thevarnish seals the project and pro-tects it from moisture and dirt.

Within weeks of completing theworkbench, and after moving it sev-eral times, I came to appreciate justhow valuable the knockdown fea-ture is. The catches are especiallyeasy to operate (Figure 5). And thebolts take just minutes to dismantle.

position vise flushwith bench top.

3/e" x'1Y2"Lag screw

Vise Detail

Although I don't always set up theshelf, it still comes in handywhen thebench is moved to a site for a longperiod (Figure 6). Its a good placefor keeping tools off the floor wherethey could be damaged.

No matter where I work. theportable workbench more thanearns its keep. In fact, when it'snearby, I've even used mine as aserving table in the dining room.Now that's versatility! rf

The draw catch secures the leg assembly tothe top. By releasing the catch, the work-bench can be disassembled and moved,

The accessory shelf, with ib attached shbi-lizers, fib over the lower stretcher. The shelfprovides an ideal place for setting tools.

60 \Torkbench I February 1997

NewToolsImagine yourself working with woodthat has been used, painted, left sittingoutdoors, or otherwise looks like itbelongs in a fireplace rather than on

Extreme Durability Cutting Blade

your circular saw Ifyou're a framer,

deck builder, orremodeler,

you mayalreadyknow theimportanceof buyinginexpensivecarbide

blades fortough jobsite

conditions. Youknow they won't

last long, and willhave to be thrown away after

they've become knicked and chippedthe first time out.

DeWalt's new Rock Carbide circularsaw blade may be what you're lookingfor. The 71/att combination framing saw

HorsePower Handy Clamp provides verUcal andhorizontal clamplng pmitions for drllling, sawlng,planlng, and routng, wift 180" rotation.

Clamping StationsThe HorsePower Handy Clamp transforms ordinary work surfaces into solidclamping centers. Screw the bracketsto a saw-horse, workbench, or even atool box. Then add a length of blackpipe and the clamping jaws. Twistingthe handle generates up to 350lbs. ofclamping force. Made from the sameresins as Quick-Grip bar clamps.

For prices or more information, con-tact American Tool Companies, Inc., at(474) 947-2M0.

62 \(orkbench tFebruary 7997

blade has 18 carbide teeth for greaterdurability. The teeth resist chippingand breaking when they encounternails, rocks and dirt.

In a demonstration, I was impressedwith how quickly and easily the bladecut through 16d nails and r/q" lag boltswith no damage. Flush-ground teethand a reinforced shoulder design,which provide greater tooth support,extend blade life up to ten-times longerthan conventional blades when usedunder extreme conditions.

Professionals said they usually buylow end carbide blades for sawinglumber under tough conditions. Inresponse, the Rock Carbide blade,with an antistick rim that resistsbuild-up, cuts faster while retaining itscutting edge - even in the face ofsand, gravel, or loose nails.

The single unit blade, modelDW3191, retails for $14.99. Ifs alsoavailable in bulk packs.

For more information, contactDeWalt, at (800) 433-9258.

All it takes is three VISE GRIPS to replace dozensof standard and metric combination wrenches.Note ib firm grip on a hex nut.

3-in-1 Vise GripThe MSE GRIP folks devised a greatsolution for those times you can neverfind the right wrench: they've intro-duced locking wrenches in threesizes, replacing more than 48 standardwrenches. These visegrips would begood for those times when you can'tlug around every wrench you own.

They're a natural for the glove com-partment, fishing tackle box, kitchendrawet or when camping or rycling.Prices range from $13 to $18. For moreinfo, contact American ToolCompanies at (513) 382-3811.

pockets, a cat's paw sleeve, backwallpockets for planes and chisels, and asecurity-flap pocket for small items.Also included are pleated pockets fornails and screws, and other tools. The

Heary-Duty Tool Belt for ProsPortable Products, creators of BucketBoss soft-sided tool-storage organizers,has introduced a professional-modeltool belt - the Contractor's Rig. Thebelt is made of tough Anso-tex nylon, amaterial that offers more abrasion resis-tance than leather.

The belt has a tunnel loop design thatallows the pockets to be easily movedalong the belt.With 30 tullypadded pockets,

the belt can carrynumerous toolsand parts whileremaining com-fortable againstyour legs.

Included areleft and rightspeed square

belt retails for about $70.Tb learn where you can buy

the belt, call PortableProducts, (800) 68&2677.

The fully-padded Contactor's Rig belt has an integral spine to pre-vent crushing under a heavy load. lt fis waists from 28 to 52 inches.

Precision CarvingIfyou enjoy carving finedetails, you'll want totake a look at the newpower carving toolfrom Ultra SpeedProducts. Calledthe Turbo Carver, this airpow-ered, lightweight tool, which isabout the size of a writing pen, spinsa bit at up to 400,000 rpm. And the lackof any noticeable torque makes theTurbo Carver exfemely controllableand smooth.

You may feel an urge to don a lab coat,for the Turbo Carver is based on theminiature, precision tools used by den-tists. It is best suited for precise applica-tions, like mrving on bone, eggshells,knife blades, gunstocks, and adding finedetails to wood projects. Ifs also usefulfor engraving, polishing, filigree, inlay,and relief carving. Don't expect to carvevery deeply - the %0" diameter bitswon't stand up to much stress.

New Skil LineSkil is introducing a new line ofportable power tools, and to kick offthe event, they gave a tour of their cir-cular saw plant.

What a marvel it was to see thesaws being made. It all starts with rawaluminum bars that go into the fur-nace. The molten aluminum is pouredinto molds for saw blade guards andsome other parts. After trimming offthe rough edges using an enormouspress, the metal parts are stackedhigh onto pallets.

A similar process is used for makingthe plastic handles, triggers and motorhousings. The plastic parts are allmarked for fuhrre recyctng, and manyof the parts in the saws are alreadymade from recycled materials.

In yet another area of the factory,motors are built for all the differentsaw models. You'd be stunned to seethe speed at which the copper windingsare automatically spun onto the motors.

The saw parts go together one pieceat a time on the assembly lines. Canyou believe this plant made over 1.5

Athch fte Turbo Carver to your air compressor andyou'll have an ldealtoolfor caMng precise dehllsIn hard materlals like bone and metal,

The $115 price includes the carvingpen, four bits, stencil samples, aninstructional video, a lubricant, and afoot conhol. For more information, callUltra Speed Products, (503) 622-4387.

360o HacksawNicholson, known for its files andsaws, is introducing a new hacksaw.Designed for 3604 maneuverability, thissaw employs a blade holding fxhrrethat can be rotated to any angle. Tochange the blade angle, you furn aspring-tensioned adjustrnent screwwith your fingers. The saw cuts up to23/+" deep using standard 12rr hacksawblades. For more information, faxNicholson Saws at (800) 423-6175.

Nlcholson's new haclsaw featr:res a blade tratplvob 36ff. Thls capablllty permlb the use of thissaw In very tight sltuations.

million saws last year? They shippedthem all over the world.

Tb test the endurance of the top twosaw models, Skil engineers ripped 5miles worth of particleboard. As forfeatures on the saws. the new bladeguard lever stands out as the bestinnovation. With this lever, you canrotate the guard out of the way fromthe left side of the saw blade cover -great for safety and convenience.

On the jigsaw, Skil has borrowedsome technology from its partners atBosch and added a linear counterbal-ance to reduce vibration. All the newtools have ergonomic designs common-ly found on more expensive models.

The new Skil tool line includes sevennew drills ($2$$60), five jigsaws ($2$$60), and three circular saws ($4G$80).For more information, call SB PowerTool Corporation; (800)301-8255.

W'orkbench t February 1997

Wagner Cordless DrillsWagner, known for its line of paintingproducts, has expanded into a newmarketwith the Pro Gold contractorseries of cordless drills.

These drills have manyimpressive feahrres,beginning with their lowprices. One of thebiggest complaints withcordless drills is neverknowing how muchpower is left in the bat-tery. So the Pro Gold bat-tery pack gives a readouton remaining battery life.It also feahrres a keyless chuck, electricbrake, and soft-touch trigger.

While testing the drills, it took only amoment before all the yellow-highlight-ed confols and adjustnents becamesecond nature to operate.The drills haveplenty of torque, which became clearwhen a screw was accidently drivenhalfway through a2rx 4r. Adjusting theclutch took care of that.

Ergonomic Tools

Wagner's new cordles drills haw a lcyless chuc[ soft-huch tig-ger, and one hour recharger. The batbry pover light and fie built-incomparlment for screwdriver blts are great feafures.

Stanley's new ergonomic hand tools offerimproved grips designed to reduce fatigue andstain caused by repetltive motlon,

The Stanley Works has introduced anew line of tools designed forergonomic comfort.

Ergonomically designed tools helpmaximize job performance, enhancework quality, and minimize physicalstress and fatigue. Stanley's initiativeshould also help reduce musculosketal injuries in the workplace.

For more information, contactStanley Tools, (860) 22$5111.

The drills come packaged with a onehour recharging power pack and anextra battery. Especially useful is thebuilt-in compartment for carryingscrewdriver bits.

Wagner's cordless Pro Gold drillsrange in price from $7g.gg to $199.99.

For more information, contact theWagner SprayTbch Corporation, at(800) 32&8251.

TicoI,s oFTHE TI{ADAnv woodworker knows that usins the rieht tools for aoroiect makes all the difference. Tfrat's w6v the Titebond@Faniily of Wood Glues has been the choice of professionalsfor more than 35 years. Recognized as the premier name in

'

wood glues, Titebond has five specially-formulated gluesfor your next woodworking project.

fitebond II Premium Wood Glue-WeatherproofO ldeal for outdoor projects-passes Type Il waier-resistance

fitebond Orisinal Wood Glue-Stronser than wooda Strong initial tack heat resistant and s-ands easily

ntebond OarkWood Glue-For darker woodso Offers all the benefits of Original Titebond

Titebond Licuid Hide Glue-Slolv seto Use to create "crackling" or antiquing effect

fitebondWood Moliling Glue-Noruns, no dripso Thicker formula-sets fa-st, yet allows realignmeni of pieces

To find out which glue will work best for your next projector to find out where you can purchase Titebond in your

\-*--

or to trnd out where you can purcnase l ltebond rn yourarea. call our Technical Servic-e Team at I-800-347-GLUE.

i : ' : ' I i l

Tool MountingThe TracMaster looks like a fancysawhorse. But it's actualh a unique andversatile tool-mounting system that's agreat aid in the shop and on a jobsite.By using the tool mount provided withthe system, you can install a variety ofbenchtop tools such as miter saws,jointers, vises, and grinders.

The TracMaster has a triple-trackbeam that allows fast and accurate

mounting and adjustment of tools.The suggested retail price is $319.

For more information about theTracMaster, call (800) 501-1587.

t reith Hone, a utah. nffiiriaking money and Mlhand in hand. Using the new ultra higl-r speed engraving;

developed by the Parag;raphics Corporation, Keith can engrave beau

designs on virtually any surface. The clemand for this type of work is t

It'sfast . . . and eas/rl tbas yot ttdgbt tbhlel'Sfith

an easy-to-use stencil system, you can transfer any design, artwork, or logo toany hard surface. By sin-rply tracing lines using the Paragrave handpiece spinning

at speeds of over 300,000 rpm, you can create beautiful carvings andengravings and the system does the work for you. It's that simple!

can make money andbartefun too!

r-800-624-74r51455 W. Center Orem. Ut 84057

'Workbench t February 1997

Spiral CuttingRotoZip, the inventor of the SpiraCutsystem, has a new Cordless SpiralSaw. Now electricity need not be avail-able for cutting holes.

The SpiraCut was originally developedfor contractors, but it quickly becameapparent that the tool had a wider rangeof use for the rest of us.

The SpiraCut is an effective system forcutting drywall, wood, plastet and tile.

The new cordless RotoZip Spira0ut needs no pilothole for cutting holes in drywall, wood, tile, andother solld materials.

Just place the bitwhere you want tostart, push it into the material, and begincutting. Suggested retail, $219.

For more information, contactRotoZip Tool Corp., (608) 79&3737.

Tool Protection

Rubbermaid has come up with newpower-tool storage cases that providelong-lasting protection and easy porta-bility. Three storage cases are avail-able. Model 7749, shown here, has aneasy-to-open clear lid that allows youto view the contents without openingit. Prices range from $16.99 to $19.99.

For more information, contactRubbermaid Inc., at (330) 26+64U.

The Right Colors At Home

Home Products

carbon monoxide sensor. According toSuperior, the FireCat is the cleanestburning, safest, and highest efficiencygas fireplace offered to consumers.An independent testing laboratory

found, "Not only does it produce no COwhile operating, it actually removes CO,hydrocarbons, and other harmful par-ticulates already present in room air."With its advanced sensing device, thefireplace is designed to shut downbefore indoor air quality can be com-promised. What's more, it's designed toalert occupants to any buildup of COfrom any malfunctioning gas applianceor other source in the house.

FireCat has a 30,000 BTU per hourfuel input and its burning efficiency isgreater than 99.9 percent. It can beinstalled as an insert in an existing fire-place, as a built-in fireplace, or as a freestanding unit. Optional features includea forced air blower, a wireless remotecontrol, and a choice ofporcelain orbrick-pattern interior panels. For pricesand more information on the FireCat,call Superior at (800) 85+0257.

Apple Red is one of 42 spray col-ors available in Rust-Oleum's newPainter's Touch series, Quart andhalf-pinb come in 16 colons,

Painter's Touch is a new mul-tipurpose, high-quality paintby Rust-Oleum. It's truly mul-tipurpose, with colors that canbe used indoors and outdoorson wood, metal, wicker, andcraft projects.

'We found that home decora-tors are focused on color nowmore than ever," stated aspokesman. Rust-Oleum's con-temporary palette of spray col-ors includes primary, classic,contemporary, and decoratorfinishes, as well as fluorescents,metallic colors, and primers.

For more product informa-tion or for helpful decoratingtips, call Rust-Oleum Corp. at(847) 367-7700.

Electic SkylightsThe Ventilating Skylight by Velux looksgreat in lofts and cathedral ceilings.Skylights suffer from one commonproblem, so Velux designed an easysolution to open this hard-to-reach light.

A separate control system enablestheir windows to be opened and closedfrom a wall-mounted keypad. For pricesand a copy of their guide to roof win-dows and sMrghts, call (800) 283-2831.

Catabrtic Fireplace

Superio/s FireCat applies catalyst technology togas combustion fireplaces with "wood fire." Anorygen depletion sensor improves safety.

The FireCat is a new gas fireplace bySuperior that applies proven catalysttechnology to ordinary gas combus-tion. Catalysts dramatically improve theefficiency and safety ofwood fire-places. Superior now incorporates thattechnology into a gas fireplace withtheir Superior Catalytic Flame.The fireplace also comes equipped

with an oxygen depletion sensor and

68 -Workbench I February 1997

Plastlc tahs called The Naller simpllff drywallconsfuction, Staple $e plastlc tabs to fie stud,fien drive screws firough the drywall and hb,

Corner SupportsInstalling drywall can be difficultwhen you have no support for screwsat the edges or corners. Now there isa solution - The Nailer. This productconsists of plastic tabs that you caneasily attach to studs and top plateswith a staple gun.

These tabs are designed to holdagainst the side of the framing mem-ber. Screws then go through the dry-wall and into the tab. Packages of 100sell for $17-$18 in lumberyards.

For more information, callTheMellennium Group at (800) 5040043.

t$q

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qfu

4

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nA Glue for all SeasonsSearching for the perfect glue is like thequest for the Holy Grail. Neither may exist,but the pleasure is in the search. So whenPL Premium Wood Glue crossed our desk.we gave it a close look.

PL glue is a onepart polyurethane that themanufacturer claims will bond almost any-thing, including wood, stone, plastic, metaland ceramic. Ifs also paintable, stainable,sandable, and waterproof.The gapfilling properties are perhaps its

most unique feature. Typically, a glue onlybonds two surfaces like wood. but its

strength breaks down when a joint is nottight. With PL, a gap-filling foam appearsas it cures, creating a strong bond.

Polyurethane glues have long beenfavored by contractors because they havesuperior bonding features, and are storeableat temperaturess down to 0' E

One note of caution: you're advised to weargloves when working with PL PremiumWood Glue to avoid staining your hands.A76 oz. bottle sells for $9.99.For more information. contact ChemRex

Inc. at (800) 433-9517.

Sparkle Ught for YardsDesigned to add sparkle to front yards,a clear faceted Post Light bulb wasrecently introduced by Osram Sylvania.The attractive outdoor bulb includesjewel-cut faceting, which creates asparkle with 75 watts of longJasting,natural looking halogen light.

Sylvania's Post Lights recenfly lit upNewYork'sTimes Square on NewYea/s

Eve, adding glow to the festive occasion.They provide a decorative way for homeowners and neighborhoods to dress upyards and walkways. This direct screw-inreplacement for ordinary incandescentsalso lasts three times as long. One PostLight bulb sells for $3.99.

For more information, contactOsram Sylvania, Inc., at (508) 777-1900.