Wayne - B.C.Air · 2021. 2. 16. · Originals Polikarpov I-153. Before you start building your...
Transcript of Wayne - B.C.Air · 2021. 2. 16. · Originals Polikarpov I-153. Before you start building your...
Every dollar helps!
These manuals are the culmination of more then 10 years of designand publication and formally sold for $10.00 each. With 54 different
manuals available, that’s a $540.00 value.
Now, due to the worldwide economic collapse, they are my gift to you.My hope is that you will enjoy these great little airplanes as much as I
have enjoyed designing them for you.
You may build as many planes as you like.Sell your planes, or give them away.
Tell ALL your airplane loving friends to come to the site and get asmany of the manuals as they like.
If you enjoy these planes, please help to ensure this site stays on-lineand these airplane manuals remain available for all to enjoy. Any
amount you donate is greatly appreciated.
May God bless you and keep you safe.
Thank You & Enjoy!Wayne
www.bcair.comCopyright © 2019 B. C. Air Originals
Step By Step Construction Plans.32 Pages With Over 130 Full Color Photos showing how to build the
Can be made from most12 or 16 oz Beverage Cans.
Wingspan: 17”Length: 11”Height: 5”
Polikarpov I-153
TOP SECRET
Chaika (Seagull)
Welcome to the B. C. Air Originals Squadron.
This booklet contains complete step by step instructions for building the B. C. AirOriginals Polikarpov I-153. Before you start building your first plane it is sug-gested that you review the entire set of plan directions. Once you have previewedthe construction steps you should start collecting the cans that you want to use tomake your first plane. These plans are designed to be used with any 12 or 16 oz.beverage can. Always use clean, unscratched and undented cans for the best lookingplanes.
Since the building of these planes requires the cutting of cans and the use of sharptools, CHILDREN SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT THE CONSTRUCTION OFTHESE PLANES WITHOUT ADULT SUPERVISION AND GUIDANCE.CONSUMER ACCEPTS ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURY IN-CURRED IN THE BUILDING OF THESE PLANES.
It is not necessary to follow all the building steps in the order presented. Such as, ifyou want to make the Engine, the Wheels or the Tail Section first, you can do thatand then set them aside until you need them. However, until you understand theconstruction of these planes, it may be easier to follow the steps in the order listed.Your very first step should be to make a copy of all the templates. All templates aredrawn to scale. Using a sheet of mylar (Clear Plastic) will enable you to re-useyour templates again and again. There is no limit to the number of planes you canbuild with these plans.
We, at B. C. Air Originals, will make every effort to assist you in answering anyquestions you may have about the construction of these planes. Please feel free tocontact us ANY TIME at [email protected].
Thank you for your interest in the B. C. Air Originals and have FUN!
D. P. (Wayne) Mathis
When you print your manuals be sure that your printer is set on it’s MAXprinting area to ensure that all the templates print out to the correct size. Thestandard 12 oz Can, here in the US, measures 2 1/2" in diameter. If the Cansyou’re using to make your plane are smaller or larger, then here’s what youdo..... Measure the diameter of your Can and find what percentage of 2 1/2" itis.... I.e. If your Can measures only 2 1/4" (in diameter) then 2 1/4" is = to 90%of 2 1/2" so you would print out all the templates at 90% instead of at 100%. Ifyour Can measures 3" (in diameter) then 3" is = to 120% of 2 1/2" so youwould print out all of the templates at 120%. etc.Some of these models were originally designed in 1984. Since then the buildingtechniques of these planes has changed over time. I.e. many of the planes nolonger require the use of the wooden former “F-1 & F-2”. We simply glue the“B-2’s” onto the BACK (BOTTOM) of the Can “B-1” or use corrugated card-board in place of the wood. (See http://www.bcair.com/BT/nwf1.htm and http://www.bcair.com/BT/nf1.htm )Once you’ve reviewed your manual and you’re ready to start your first plane,go here > http://www.bcair.com/BT/ < and look over the Builder’s Tips. Theseare building tips sent in from builders all over the world. They will help you tomake these planes easier and faster. Bookmark this page as it is NOT acces-sible from the main web site.You can obtain the plastic props used on these planes from your localHobby Shop or here’s where I get my props on-line > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=QBC&V=MAS <.Here’s where I get my Wooden Propellers on-line > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch<Any 5-7" prop, with any pitch, will work on these planes.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch
The following is a list of tools and materials I use to build these planes.You may find that you do not need all of the tools that I use.Use whatever works best for you.
Pliers.
Push Pin.
Awl (old screw driver sharpened to a point).Wire cutter.X-acto knife (hobby knife) (box opener).Scissors & Can Opener.Ruler (straight edge).Felt tip pen (any color).Needle nose pliers.
Small Paper Cutter.
Materials -
Aluminum Cans (beer, pop, soda, juice, etc) any 12 oz. size will work.Bottle caps.Corrugated Cardboard. Tape (any kind) & Glue (2-Part Epoxy works best).Mylar (Clear plastic).Copper Coated Welding Rod, Music Wire or any other straight wire .
(2 sizes - 1/16” & 3/32”)Hazel Nuts (Acorn Nuts, Cap Nuts, Toothpaste Caps).Screws, Nuts and Bolts.Wire clip (speed nut).
2
Cutting CansThe building of these planes requires that the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cans becut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown below.
SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT
What I’ve done here is taken a piece ofboard wood (aprox 12” x 15” x 3/4”) and toit I’ve attached (screw or glue) Two Blocksof wood (2” x 2” x 5”) and Two Rails ofwood (1” x 1” x 10”)
Using a Hose Clamp, I’ve secured myDremal® Tool to the board. The twoguide rails are used to cradle the can.
A cutting wheel is used to cut theBottom and the Top off the Cans.
Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Tops and Bottomsof the cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE HAND & EYE GEAR WHEN CUTTING CANS!
In ALL cases, cutthe Bottom off theCan FIRST, thencut the Top off.Get as much of theCan as possable.
Another Way Of Cutting Cans
Once you’ve selected which Cans your plane will be made out of, take one Can and hold it firmly atit’s bottom. Using your wire snips, cut through the ring at the top of the Can.
Now grab the ring with your wire snips and PULL the top off the Can. The top will normally tare offright where the Can begins to taper inward to the ring.
Continue PULLING until the top of the Can comes off. Then cut down the side of the Can with yourscissors. Next use a smaller scissor to cut the bottom off the Can.
Use a straight edge, or a papercutter to trim the edges smooth.
Trim Can to 3 5/8” x 8 1/4”
SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT
STEP # 1
After you’ve decided which Can you’regoing to make your plane out of, take oneCan and designate it as Can B-1.
Remove the pull tab and make a 3/32”hole in the center as shown.
Pull Tab
Make 1/4” hole in the centerof the Bottom of the can.
Take Template #1 (Page 29) and wrap it around Can B-1.Using a Push Pin, make ALL the holes (A through I) where indicated.Leave 2 Push Pins in place and cut out the cockpit as shown.
STEP # 2
STEP # 3
Bend Half ofthe cockpit seatUP and thenbend the otherHalf of the seatDown into theCan as shown.
Can B-1
Can B-1
2 1/2”
STEP # 4
STEP # 5
Strip approx 4” of rubberinsulation off a piece of 10gage electrical wire and cut theoutside edge as shown. Thenglue it around the cockpit edgeas shown here.
Cut off excess rubber
Cut out the instrumentpanel (Page 30) andglue it to a piece ofcorrugated cardboard.Then glue it to theINSIDE of B-1, justForward of the cockpithole, as shown.
Corrugated Cardboard
Instrument Panel
Cut the Tops and Bottoms off seventeen(17) Cans and open them up.
STEP # 6
Use a straight edge, or a papercutter to trim the edges smooth.
Trim Can to 3 5/8” x 8 1/4”
STEP # 7
STEP # 8
Cut a 2 1/4” circle ofcorrugated cardboard.Make a 1/2” hole in thecenter, as show, andglue it to the BACK ofCan B-1 as shown.
Cut Template # 2 (Page 31) out of a Can and shape it into acone. Glue it on the Tab on the INSIDE. This will now beB-2.
Glue B-2 onto the Back end of B-1 as shown.
Line up the slit, in B-2, to the TOP of the plane.(This will be eventually be hidden by the turtle deck andVertical stabilizer.)
Slit in B-2
Slit in B-2
B-2B-2
B-1Cardboard, from Step # 7,inside B-2 to help stabilizeB-2 onto B-1.
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STEP # 9
Take Two (2) pieces of 3/32” Rod nine inches (9”) long and bendthem as shown. Then insert them through Holes C & D in B-1.
1/2”
4 1/2” 4 1/2”
Hole D Hole D
Hole C Hole C
Can B-1
Can B-2
The Rod used in this plane is 3/32” and 1/6” Copper coated WeldingRod. It can be obtained at most hardware store and Welding SupplyHouses.
STEP # 10
Cut Two (2) Lower Wings (Template # 3- Page 30) from corrugated cardboardand cover the Bottoms with a Can asshown.
A strip of double-face tape will hold theCan in place.
Leave a 1/4” overlap as shown.12345678901234567890123456789012123456789012345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890121234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012345678901212345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012123456789012345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890121234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012345678901212345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012123456789012345678901234567890
STEP # 11
STEP # 12
Double-Face Tape
With the bottom of both wingscovered, put some glue on bothwing spars and slide the wings inplace as shown.
The Leading Edge of the wing should be 1/4” back from this point on the Can.
Glue a 1” square (Around aboutthat size) piece of corrugatedcardboard onto the Top of eachLower Wing as shown.
Glue a 1/2” x 6” piece of corrugatedcardboard 1/4” Back from the leadingedge on both wings as shown.
LOWER WINGS
4 1’2”
STEP # 13
Cover the Top of bothLower wings with Cans asshown.
Bottom View of Lower Wings.
STEP # 14
Cut Two (2) Upper Wings(Template # 4 - Page 30)from corrugated cardboard.
TOP WINGS
STEP # 15
STEP # 16
1”1”
6”
Take Four (4) pieces of 3/32” Rod,7” long and bend them as shown
Then put some glue on each rodand insert them into the Top Wingsas shown.
Add a 5/8” piece of cardboard here.
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Cover the Bottoms with a Can asshown.
A strip of double-face tape will holdthe Can in place.
STEP # 17
Glue a 1/2” x 6” piece of corrugated card-board 1/4” Back from the Leading Edge ofeach wing as shown. Then put a strip ofdouble-face tape on top of it.
STEP # 18
STEP # 19
Cover this part of the wing First.
Glue a 1” square (Around aboutthat size of cardboard here.
2 1/2”
STEP # 20
Cover both Top Wings with Cans as shown.
STEP # 22
STEP # 21
STEP # 23
Cut Two (2) Wing Struts (Template # 5 - Page30) from cardboard and cover with Cans asshown.
Insert a 3” piece of 3/32” Rod as shown.
2 1/2”
Glue the Wing Struts in placeas shown.
Insert the Wing Spars intoHoles A & B and glue TopWings in place as shown.
Glue
Both Wings
WING STRUTS
STEP # 24
Take six (6) pieces of string, approx 10”long, and tie and glue a small nail or pin toone end, or each string, as shown.
Nail/Pin
Glue the Nail/Pin into the Bottom of the Top Wing at the Forward most point of the Wing Strut.
Hole G
Glue
String Fly Wires as follows: Forward most part of Top Wing Spar to Hole G
Hole G
Aft most part of Top Wing Spar to Hole H
Aft most part of Lower Wing Spar to Hole I
Glue all Fly Wires to the INSIDE of B-1.
Nails/Pinsglued intothe wings
Hole G
Hole H
Hole I
Nail/Pin
FLY WIRES
Vertical Stabilizer
STEP # 25
Cut Template # 5(VS - Page 30)from corrugatedcardboard andcover with Cansas shown.
STEP # 26
Take a piece of 3/32” Rod, 15” long, and put a rightangle bend in it as shown. (This will be the Prop Shaft.)
1”14”
Insert the Back End of the Prop Shaft intothe VS as shown.
Stack 6 or 7 Pull Tabs, hold in place witha strip of tape, and glue/epoxy themtogether. Make 7 stacks of Tabs.These will become the Engine Cylinders (ECS).
Take 4 bottle caps and puta 3/32” hole in the center ofeach cap. Glue/epoxy 2caps together as shown.
.
.
.
Glue/epoxy the 4 bottlecaps together as shownhere.
Wrap the caps 5-6times with duct tape.
This willbecomethe EngineCrankCase(ECC).
Place the ECS around the ECC andglue/epoxy in place. Use a rubberband to hold them in place until theglue/epoxyhas dried.
FRONT VIEW
Be sure toremove alltape fromECS beforegluing themaround theECC.
* OPTIONAL *Glue 3/32” Rods,or small nails,around the engineto represent ValvePush Rods.
www.bcair.com
Making the Radial Engine.
www.bcair.com
STEP # 27
For the I-153 we are going to make only SIX (6) stacks of Pull Tabs. See photo-step 30)
* OPTIONAL METHOD FORADDING VALVE PUSH RODS *
Glue bottle cap, with 3/32” Holein the center, over face of engineto finish off push rods.
3/32” or 1/16” Rod - 1 1/4” long
www.bcair.com
STEP # 28
Take a 2” piece of 3/32” Rod andbend it as shown. Glue it into ansmall electrical connecter as shown.(This will be the Control Stick.)
STEP # 29Insert the PS (With the VS attached) through the BackEnd of B-2, and through the hole in the Back of B-1.Insert the Control Stick onto the PS then insert the PSout through the hole in the center of the Pull Tab (in theFront of B-1) as shown. Put some glue on the VS anddraw the VS into place and hold the PS in place with alock washer or glue as shown.
VS VS
PS
Glue VS in placeB-2
B-1
B-2
PS
Glue
STEP # 30
STEP # 31
You need not remove the tapeon the cylinders, as it will becovered by the Cowl..
Take the Engine that you made back in Step 27,and glue it onto the PS as shown.
Note that we’re only using Six (6) cylinderson the I-153’s Radial Engine.
Glue the Control Stick in place as shown.
Control Stick
B-1
Instrument PanelPilot Seat
PS
STEP # 32
STEP # 33
Cut Two (2) Horizontal Stabilizers(HS) Template # 6 - Page 30 fromcorrugated cardboard and cover withCans as show,
HS HS
Take Two (2) pieces of 3/32” Rod,5” long, and insert them through B-2 as shown. Put some glue onthem and slide the HS’s in place.
HS
HS
VSHS HS B-2B-2
Horizontal Stabilizer
STEP # 34
STEP # 35
STEP # 36
Take a small piece of corrugated cardboard andglue it onto the Back of B-1 as a Headrest.
Cut the Windshield(Template # 7 - Page30) from any piece ofclear plastic and glue inplace as shown.
Cut a piece of Can to coverthe turtle deck as shown.
STEP # 37
STEP # 38 STEP # 39
Use a 2” Hole Saw andcut the bottom out of aCan. Sand the edgesuntil the bottom of theCan is completely opento the point of where theRim starts.
Decide where the Top of the Cowling will beand make a small dent in it as shown.
Make Two (2) 1/8” Holes on eitherside of the Dent as shown.
Wrap Template # 7 around the CowlCan and, using a Push Pin, make theeight (8) holes where indicated. Thencut the Cowling from the Can.
Line up with the Bottomof the Cowling
STEP # 40
STEP # 41
STEP # 42
STEP # 43
Take a piece of 1/4”aluminum Tubing andshape it as shown. Thenglue it to the Top of theCowling where youmade the Dent.
Glue Two (2) small pieces of 1/8”aluminum tubing into the two holeson either side of the dent.
Glue anotherTwo (2) smallpieces of 1/8”aluminum tubingon either side ofthe engine asshown.
1/8” aluminum tubing 1” long
1/8” aluminum tubing 1” long
Glue the Cowling in placeover the engine as shown.
Cut eight (8) 1/4” pieces like this -->from a plastic straw and gluethem over the eight holes in the cowl.(These are the engine exhaust pipes.)
7/32 x .014 aluminum tubing
STEP # 44
Landing GearTake a piece of 3/32” wire and cut it to 6 1/8”,then bend it to the shape shown on page 31.This will be your main landing gear. Insert itthrough Holes E (in B-1).
Take a piece of 1/16” wire and cut it t0 4 3/8”, then bend it to the shape shownon page 32. This will be your main landinggear support wire. Insert it through Holes F(in B-1).
Use a small electrical connecter to attach the landing gear support wire to the main landing gear as shown.
Add wheels to the main landing gear.STEP # 45
Take Four (4) Bottle Caps and put a3/32” hole in the center of each Cap.
Glue Two Caps togetherto make One Wheel.
Use a Black Magic Marker orspray paint the Wheels Black.
* OPTIONAL *
Main Landing Gear
LandingGearSupport
Glue
Glue
On this plane I usedrubber wheels fromTower Hobbies(www.towerhobbies.com).Dubro Tailwheel 1"LXD812
Take a piece of 3/32” wire approx 2”long and bend it into the shape above.Drill a hole through the bottom of thetail section. Insert and Glue the TailWheel (Skid) in place.
STEP # 46
STEP # 47
Add propeller and acron nut.
On this plane I used a prop from Tower Hobbies(www.towerhobbies.com).Prop LXFTMH
Your B. C. Air Originals Polikarpov I-153 Chaika (Seagull) is now complete.
F
F
. .
..
..
..
A
A B
B
C
C
D
D
.
..
.E
E
Fron
t of C
an
Bottom Center of Can
X
X
Y
Y
.
..
.
.
.G
G H
H
I
I
EXPLANATION OF HOLES:
A. Top Forward Wing Spar.B. Top Aft Wing Spar.C. Bottom Forward Wing Spar.D. Bottom Aft Wing Spar.E. Main Landing Gear.F. Landing Gear Support.G. Lower Forward Fly Wire.H. Lower Aft Fly Wire.I. Upper Aft Fly Wire.X
to X
MU
ST =
8 5
/32”
Left Side of PlaneRight Side of Plane
Template #1
Page 29
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.Bottom of Cowl
To Front of Cow
lTop of Cowl
Top of Cowl
2
1
3
4
5
6
7
8
8 Ex
haus
t Pip
e H
oles
in th
e C
owl
2 1/2”
Instrument Panel
WINDSHIELD
WingStrut
Page 30
Template #5
Template # 7
<--Corrugation Runs-->
Template # 2 (B-2)
Tab
Vertical Stabilizer
VS
<--C
orru
gatio
n R
uns-
->
Landing Gear3/32” Rod 6 1/8” Long
1/16” Rod 4 3/8” Long
1/2” 1/2”
1 7/8”
1 3/8”
1 3/8”
1 1/2”
PAGE 31
Horizontal Stabilizer
HS<--Corrugation Runs-->
<--C
orru
gatio
n R
uns-
->
<--C
orru
gatio
n R
uns-
->
Extra piece ofcorrugatedcardboard tosupport the wingstrut.
1/2”
x 6
3/4
” co
rrug
ated
car
dboa
rd to
form
airf
oil.
1/2”
x 5
3/4
” co
rrug
ated
car
dboa
rd to
form
airf
oil.Glue on Top
of Wing
Glue on Topof Wing
Glu
e on
Top
of W
ing
Glu
e on
Top
of W
ing
PAGE 32