Wayne,

10
Wayne, The upper and lower guides are now small enough in mass so they can be made directly from the CAD models by stereolithography, and at a reasonable price << $500. They can be made from a non-electrically conducting material, such as ABS which can attain the high heat needed for epoxy curing. Once the winding pack is bagged and epoxy impregnated, I tend to think that when the coil is subjected to the liquid nitrogen temperatures, that even if the material for the guides does become brittle, it is encased in epoxy and really has no place it can go. The guides are there primarily for winding, not structural issues. The metallic lower blocks can provide any structural needs The lower blocks can also be machined from the CAD models and made from copper, stainless, bronze, or even aluminum, etc. to allow for any thermal conduction cooling of the leads as they pass through the grooves. Also, I heard you mention that the groove at the base of the tee is going to have to be ground out by hand - I was just wondering why we need the groove, or at least maybe not as big of a groove if the cladding pieces are

description

Wayne, The upper and lower guides are now small enough in mass so they can be made directly from the CAD models by stereolithography, and at a reasonable price

Transcript of Wayne,

Page 1: Wayne,

Wayne,

The upper and lower guides are now small enough in mass so they can be made directly from the CAD models by stereolithography, and at a reasonable price << $500.

They can be made from a non-electrically conducting material, such as ABS which can attain the high heat needed for epoxy curing.

Once the winding pack is bagged and epoxy impregnated, I tend to think that when the coil is subjected to the liquid nitrogen temperatures, that even if the material for the guides does become brittle, it is encased in epoxy and really has no place it can go. The guides are there primarily for winding, not structural issues. The metallic lower blocks can provide any structural needs

The lower blocks can also be machined from the CAD models and made from copper, stainless, bronze, or even aluminum, etc. to allow for any thermal conduction cooling of the leads as they pass through the grooves.

Also, I heard you mention that the groove at the base of the tee is going to have to be ground out by hand - I was just wondering why we need the groove, or at least maybe not as big of a groove if the cladding pieces are not joined together in the corner. They can actually stop short of the corner by probably and eighth to a quarter of an inch, and the groove is not as prominent. It is not needed for stress relief and so I was just wondering if it would maybe save a week or so of time trying to machine it.

Page 2: Wayne,

.50”

.125” Rib

.54”

.625”CL to CL

.905”

1.36”

2.48”

7.00”

Lower guide details

Page 3: Wayne,

.250” socket headcap screws securelower guide to block

Lower Guide Block

LowerGuide

Assemble lower guide block components

Page 4: Wayne,

.50”

.372”

Conductor wraptransition area forincreased insulation

.375” socket headcap screws securelower guide block to tee winding form

Attach lower guide block assemblyto tee winding form and beginwinding conductors

Page 5: Wayne,

Continue winding all turns

Page 6: Wayne,

1.36”

.94”

3.64”

2.34”

.250” socket headcap screws secureupper guide to block

Upper Guide Block

UpperGuide

Assemble the upper guide block components

Page 7: Wayne,

Attach upper guide block assemblyto the lower guide block assembly

.250” socket headcap screws secureupper guide blockto lower guide block

Page 8: Wayne,

Finish final turns by inserting them into the upper guide block grooves and continuing through lower guideblock grooves

Page 9: Wayne,

Attach side plate to block assemblies

.250” socket headcap screws secureside plate to theblock assemblies

Page 10: Wayne,

Attach top plate toblock assembliesand tee winding form

.250” socket head cap screwsSecure top plate to block assemblies

.375” flat head machine screwssecure top plate to tee winding form