Waves and Nearshore CirculationREF/DIF (Kirby & Dalrymple) RCPWAVE (Ebersole) CGWave (Panchang)...
Transcript of Waves and Nearshore CirculationREF/DIF (Kirby & Dalrymple) RCPWAVE (Ebersole) CGWave (Panchang)...
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Waves and Nearshore Circulation
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Waves
wave number wave angular frequency
wave steepness relative water depth
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Dispersion Relationship
Wave length decreases with decreasing depth
Approximate solution of Fenton & McKee
Go to Wave Calculator
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Orbital Motions of Waves
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Velocity Profiles
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Wave Energy and Energy Flux
Wave Energy Flux
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Dynamic Pressure
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Look at another bunch of calculators, including wave particle motions
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Wave Shoaling
12
Shoaling
Shoaling Coefficient, Ks
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Wave Refraction
Where is crest?What are arrows?
Planform
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Refraction
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Refraction
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Wave Diffraction
Calculable: Mathematically; parabolic modeling includes depth changes
Huygen’s Principle
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Diffraction Diagram
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Wave Breaking
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Wave Models
REF/DIF (Kirby & Dalrymple)
RCPWAVE (Ebersole)
CGWave (Panchang)
FUNWAVE (Wei & Kirby)
SWAN (Holthuijsen)
WAVEWATCH III (Tolman)
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Breaker Types
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Surf Similarity Parameter
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Dally, Dean, Dalrymple (1985)
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Breaking Waves and Turbulence
Matsunaga (1994), Li and Dalrymple (1998)
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Low Frequency Motions: Surf Beat
cross-shore motion only
Linearized long wave equations
cross-differentiate:
For h=m x
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Edge Waves: alongshore dependency
Laguerre Polynomials
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Edge Waves
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Field Observations
Huntley, Guza, Thornton (1981)
Rip Currents, Tang and Dalrymple (1985)
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Mean Quantities
Time Average
Depth Average
Depth and Time Average
equal to 0?
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Mass Flux
H= 1 m, T= 6 s, h = 5 mE= 1090, C= 6.35, M=171 kg/m-sec
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Momentum Flux
caligraphic M, not M (momentum, not mass)
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Set-down and Set-up
offshore
inshore
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Nearshore Circulation
Numerical models of these equations exist:
SHORECIRC (U Del)
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Longshore Current
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Longuet-Higgins (1970)
with mixing
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Shear Waves
Ozkan-Haller and Kirby, 1999
Oltman-Shay, Howd, Birkemeier, 1989
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Boussinesq ModelsSorenson et al. (1998) noticed that wave model
predicted currents
Chen et al. (1999)Haller’s rip current test
Variation in longshore wave height
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Rip Currents
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Simple Model of Rip Current
sand bar
rip rip incident waves
Dalrymple, 1978
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Rip Current Types
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Wright & Short,1984
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Wright & Short,1984
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Palm Beach,AustraliaArgus images
(Ranasinghe et al. 2004)
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FUNWAVE: CUSPS
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FUNWAVE: Hole
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Synchonous Intersecting Wave Trains