WANDERLUST - Modern Daily Knitting · 2020-06-09 · INTRODUCTION W hat’s the first trip you...

mason-dixon knittingfield guide n0. 11

Kay Gardiner and Ann Shayne

WANDERLUST

Introduction

Map of a Sock

Cuff-Down Socks

Kitchener Stitch

Souvenir Yarns

Toe-Up Socks

Exploring Allover Stitch Patterns

Exploring Panel Stitch Patterns

Socks on the Go

Abbreviations

Meet Wendy Bernard

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6.

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15.

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32.

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Wanderlust

mdk field guide no. 11

Kay Gardiner and Ann Shayne

CONTENTS

Skeins of Barnyard Knits Fingering with socks from this issue.

2 | | 3

INTRODUCTION

What’s the first trip you remember taking? You may have been very young. The specifics of it might be blurry, something along the lines of We’re Going

to See Grandma Wherever That Is, and maybe your fondest memory was the hot fudge sundae you got at Howard Johnson’s. It had almonds. But the most vivid feeling was the excitement of it all as the date of departure approached. We’re going somewhere!

This feeling never ends, this delight at escaping the ordinary. It’s why cities have parks, why jobs have days off, why our calendar has a weekend. The more we anticipate something—the more we savor the prospect of it—the happier we will be. (There’s science behind this!) The French even have a word for it: the verb se réjouir can be used to “capture the experience of deriving pleasure in the present from anticipating the future.”

So that’s what this Field Guide is all about. The joy of getting away.Wanderlust.

Where, exactly, are we bound? It can be anywhere, from the next town over to the next continent. The only requirement, of course, is knitting. And if anticipation and dreaming are a part of planning a trip, there is nothing more delicious to savor than what knitting projects to bring.

Our suggestion? Socks. Socks are portable, small, fun. Our guide? Wendy Bernard, a designer celebrated for stylish designs with stitch patterns that can be mixed and matched.

4 | | 5

Wendy brings that approach to this Field Guide—she is flexible (no restrictions on when and where we can get off the tour bus here) and provides options so we can make our socks our own.

The direction of knitting: cuff-down or toe-up. Stitch pattern: allover or paneled. Cuff style: ribbed or picot. From there, we can riff all day long, because all the stitch patterns and cuffs are inter-changeable. We can keep this sock odyssey going for a very long time with just the information in this easy-to-carry book.

Socks are humble. Yet the knitting of a sock is one of the most satisfying, addicting projects imaginable. A tube that bends in the middle and ends up going in a direction 90 degrees different from where it started? While looking all colorful and cool? Count us in.

Please come along!

P.S. A Note on Needles: If you want to get a juicy conversation going, ask knitters what their favorite needle is for knitting socks. You’ll likely hear a lot of heartfelt opinion. The two patterns in this Field Guide call for double-pointed needles, but feel free to try other types. Options include two circulars; Magic Loop, using one long circular needle; Addi FlexiFlips, which are a set of short, flexible needles; and tiny-circumference circular needles. Ann learned to knit socks on two circular needles, with the help of Cat Bordhi’s classic book, Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles.

6 | | 7

Before we start our journey to the land of socks, let’s orient ourselves. In the photo at left, we show you the key sites.

Next you need to make a couple of simple decisions about your itinerary:

— Cuff-Down or Toe-Up: Either you cast on a cuff ’s worth of stitches (cuff-down) or a few stitches (toe-up). If you are worried you might run short of yarn, it is safer to start at the toe and knit the foot first. The leg of a sock can be long or short, but there is no scrimping on the foot.

— Allover or Paneled Stitch Pattern: An allover pattern covers nearly every square inch of the leg and instep. A paneled pattern is worked in a designated rectilinear area on the leg and instep and is framed by stockinette stitch. Allover or panels, you'll have plenty of stitch patterns to choose from.

Finally, some words of wisdom. As with GPS directions, take your sock instructions as they come, not all at once. You don’t want to be sitting in New York wondering about an exit ramp in California, and you shouldn’t be anxious about the heel when you’re working the cuff. The pattern will show you the way!

MAP OF A SOCK

Cuff

Heel

Sole

Toe

Leg

Instep

Stockinette Stitch sock in Spud & Chloe Fine.

8 | | 9

CUFF-DOWNSOCKS

Design by

Wendy Bernard

Cuff-down sock patterns are the tried-and-true, ancient way to knit a sock. You’ll be tapping into the traditions of sock making with this method.

Pros: You get to knit a good long stretch of a leg, so that by the time you get to the heel, you’re ready for some adventure.

Cons: Potentially running out of yarn if it’s a close call. Having to do Kitchener Stitch to close the toe, if Kitchener Stitch is not your jam.

Once you’ve got the lay of the land in stockinette stitch, incor-porating a stitch pattern (see pages 24–37) will be easy.

Sample socks worked in Seeded Rib allover pattern (left) and Waving Rib panel pattern (right) in 80/20 Sock by Lichen and Lace

10 | | 11

noTeSYou may choose your cuff pattern from

any one of the three given on page 11.

You may work in stockinette stitch as

written in this pattern, or use an allover

pattern or a panel pattern (see pages

24–37) instead of stockinette stitch.

If you choose to work a stitch pattern

other than stockinette stitch, be sure to

read the instructions for allover patterns

on page 24 or for panel patterns on

page 32 to learn how and where to

make adjustments to place the pattern

correctly.

kniTTed meASuRemenTSFoot Circumference (measured at ball of

foot): 7 (8, 9, 10)" [18 (20.5, 23, 25.5) cm]

Foot Length: 9 (10, 11, 111/2)" [23 (25.5, 28,

29) cm]

SizeSmall (Medium, Large, X-Large)

mATeRiAlS — 80/20 Sock by Lichen and Lace

[100 g skeins, each approx 365 yds

(334 m), 80% superwash merino

/ 20% nylon]: 1 skein Teal Tide or

Beach Glass (shown on page 8)

— Size US 2 (2.5 mm) double-point

needles (set of 4 or 5), or size

needed to achieve gauge

— Stitch markers

gAuge32 sts and 48 rnds = 4" (10 cm) over

stockinette stitch

CUFF PATTERNS(CHooSe one)

1×1 Ribbed Cuff(even number of sts) (see page 23)

— All Rnds: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

— Work even for 1 (11/2, 11/2, 11/2)" [2.5 (4,

4, 4) cm].

2×2 Ribbed Cuff (multiple of 4 sts) (see page 33)


— Work even for 1 (11/2, 11/2, 11/2)" [2.5 (4,

4, 4) cm].

PiCoT Hemmed Cuff(even number of sts) (see page 14)

— Knit 12 rnds, or approx 1" (2.5 cm).

— Turning Rnd: *K2tog, yo; rep from *

to end.

— Knit 13 rnds, or 1 rnd more than

before Turning Rnd.

Note: Finished cuff is 1" long.

See page 13 for finishing instructions.

CUFF — CO 56 (64, 72, 80) sts. Distribute sts

among 3 or 4 dpns with half of the sts on the first 1 or 2 needle(s) (these will become the instep) and the other half on 2 needles (these will become the heel). Join, being careful not to twist sts; pm for beg of rnd and work in the rnd as follows:

— Choose your cuff pattern; work even until cuff pattern is complete.

LEG — Beg st st (knit every rnd) or your

chosen st pattern (see Notes); work even until piece measures 51/4 (51/4, 53/4, 53/4)" [13.5 (13.5, 14.5, 14.5) cm] from the beg (or from Turning Rnd if you worked Picot Hemmed Cuff ), ending after working across the instep sts on the final rnd, rearrang-ing the sts if necessary if you worked a st pattern other than st st (see page 24 for allover st patterns; see page 32 for panel st patterns). You will work the heel on the 28 (32, 36, 40) heel sts only, leaving instep sts out of work on instep needle(s). Remove beg-of-rnd marker.

12 | | 13

SHORT-ROW HEEL — Short Row 1 (RS): K27 (31, 35, 39) w&t. — Short Row 2 (WS): P26 (30, 34, 38)

w&t. — Short Row 3: Knit to 1 st before

wrapped st, w&t. — Short Row 4: Purl to 1 st before

wrapped st, w&t.

— Rep Short Rows 3 and 4 until 12 (12, 14, 14) sts remain between wraps in the middle of the heel, ending with a WS row. Note: You may work wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them, or leave the wraps in place, as shown for the socks in this guide.

— Short Row 5 (RS): Knit to first wrapped st, knit wrapped st, w&t.

— Short Row 6 (WS): Purl to first wrapped st, purl wrapped st, w&t.

— Short Row 7: Knit to double-wrapped st, knit wrapped st, w&t.

— Short Row 8: Purl to double-wrapped st, purl wrapped st, w&t.

— Rep Short Rows 7 and 8 until all wrapped sts have been worked. Note: On last rep of Short Rows 7 and 8, you will work the final w&t of each row on the first st on either side of the heel sts.

— Partial Rnd: Work to end of heel. Rearrange sts if necessary if you worked an allover st pattern other than st st (see page 24 or 32). Rejoin for working in the rnd; pm for beg of rnd.

FOOT — Work even, resuming the st pattern

on instep as established, and working the sole sts in st st (see page 24 or 32), until piece measures 71/2 (81/4, 9, 91/4)" [19 (21, 23, 23.5) cm] from back of heel, or to approx 11/2 (13/4, 2, 21/4)" 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5) cm] less than desired length. Rearrange the sts if necessary if you worked an

allover st pattern other than st st (see page 24 or 32).

TOE — Dec Rnd: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 instep

sts, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—4 sts dec.

— Rep Dec Rnd every other rnd 8 (10, 11, 13) more times—20 (20, 24, 24) sts remain [10 (10, 12, 12) sts each for instep and sole].

— Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Rearrange sts if necessary so that instep sts are on 1 needle and sole sts are on another. Using Kitchener st (see page 15), graft toe sts.

finiSHing — If you chose to work Picot Hemmed

Cuff, fold hem over at Turning Rnd and lightly tack CO edge to WS, being careful not to let sts show on RS, and making sure that sts are loose enough to enable the cuff to fit over the foot.

— Weave in ends; block as desired.

14 | | 15

KITCHENER STITCH

This sewn technique finishes the toe with a smooth join that

looks exactly like you knitted it. A magical end to your sock.

Using a blunt tapestry needle, thread a length of yarn approximately 4 times the length of the section to be joined.

With stitches still on the needles, hold the pieces to be joined parallel, with wrong sides together, both needle tips pointing to the right. Working from right to left:

Setup

◼ Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on front needle purlwise, pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.

◼ Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on back needle knitwise, pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.

Repeat for all stitches

◼ *Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on front needle knitwise, pull yarn through, remove stitch from needle.

◼ Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on front needle purlwise, pull yarn through, leave stitch on needle.

◼ Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on back needle purlwise, pull yarn through, remove stitch from needle.

◼ Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on back needle knitwise, pull yarn through, leave stitch on needle.

◼ Repeat from *, working 3 or 4 stitches at a time, adjusting stitch tension to match the pieces being joined.

◼ When 1 stitch remains on each needle, cut yarn and pass through last 2 stitches to fasten off.

16 | | 17

SOUVENIR YARNS

I ’ve never been a souvenir collector, in the sense of T-shirts with place names or a shelf full of shot glasses. Yarn is the thing I bring home. I buy it without a single

thought as to whether I am going to make anything out of it. And sometimes, it never seems to want to be made into any-thing. It’s a perfect relationship: it sits on my desk for weeks after a trip ends, a reminder of a place I’ve just visited.

If I could figure out how to paste it all into a scrapbook, my travel yarns would have loving captions written under each one. “Apalachicola, Florida: spring break 2008. Laceweight alpaca.” “Chicago. That knit night at Windy Knitty. Fuschia merino.” There’s no rhyme or reason to the souvenir yarn I pick—it can be from a sheep named Shadrach or a color inspired by a NASA Saturn V rocket. Handpainted yarns seem to be a favorite of mine, because the colors are always so tempting. But sometimes even a color name can be enough. A sassy dyer won me over with just the name she chose for her crazy-clown colorway: “Beige.”

—AnnIn bowl and at top right:

Barnyard Knits Fingering skeins. At bottom: Neighborhood Fiber

Co. Studio Sock skeins and a pair of socks in progress.

18 | | 19

Toe-up socks begin with only a few stitches—a bit of magic that lets you create a toe without having to use Kitchener Stitch.

Toe-up is the method to use if you’re not sure if you have enough yarn. Divide your yarn into two equal balls, and you’ll have two socks of the same size—it may be that the legs are a little short, but at least you won’t end up with a sock and a half.

Pros: The toe is such a cool bit of knitting architecture. The tricky bit is right at the beginning of your sock-making, when you’re feeling fresh and feisty. You start with 6 rows knitted flat, but soon you’re knitting in the round, and the toe magi-cally emerges.

Cons: The toe-up cast-on is best done when well caffeinated and with good light. You’re putting 20 stitches onto 4 double- pointed needles, so steady hands are in order.

TOE-UPSOCKS

Design by

Wendy Bernard

Sample socks worked in Seersucker allover pattern in Socks Yeah! by Coop Knits (left) and Twisted Rib panel pattern in 80/20 Sock by Lichen and Lace (right).

20 | | 21

noTeSYou may choose your Cuff Pattern from

any one of the three given on page 21.

Work in stockinette st as written in pattern

or choose an allover or a panel pattern

from pages 24–37 instead. If you work a

stitch pattern other than stockinette st,

read instructions for allover patterns on

page 24 or panel patterns on page 32 to

learn how to place correctly.

SPeCiAl TeCHniQueProvisional CO: (Crochet onto Needle)

Make slip knot with waste yarn; place on

crochet hook. Hold spare needle in left

hand, pointing up, and crochet hook in

right hand; hold both yarn ends behind

needle with left hand, with working end

of yarn over index finger. *Take crochet

hook across front of needle, go under

working end of waste yarn from left to

right, catch yarn, and draw through loop

on crochet hook to create 1 st on needle;

take working end of yarn over needle tip to

back again. Repeat from * until you have

cast on required number of sts. Work a few

crochet chain sts to indicate which end of

cast-on to undo to unravel it, then cut yarn

and draw tail through loop on crochet hook

to fasten off. When ready to work live sts,

unravel cast on, beginning with crochet

chain end, and unzip chain, placing live sts

on spare needle as you unzip.

kniTTed meASuRemenTSFoot Circumference (measured at ball of

foot): 7 (8, 9, 10)" [18 (20.5, 23, 25.5) cm];

Foot Length: 9 (10, 11, 111/2)" [23 (25.5, 28,

29) cm]

SizeSSmall (Medium, Large, X-Large)

mATeRiAlS — Socks Yeah! by Coop Knits [50 g

skeins, each approx 231 yds (212 m),

75% superwash merino / 25%

nylon]: 2 skeins Sphene OR 80/20

Sock by Lichen and Lace [100 g

skeins, each approx 365 yds (334

m), 80% superwash merino / 20%

nylon]: 1 skein Beet Root (see both

samples on page 18)

— Size US 2 (2.5 mm) double-point

needles (set of 5), or size needed to

achieve gauge

— Stitch markers and waste yarn

gAuge — 32 sts and 48 rnds = 4" (10 cm) over

stockinette stitch

CUFF PATTERNS (CHooSe one)

1×1 Ribbed Cuff (even number of sts) (see page 23)


— Work even for 1 (11/2, 11/2, 11/2)" [2.5 (4,

4, 4) cm].

2×2 Ribbed Cuff(multiple of 4 sts) (see page 33)


— Work even for 1 (11/2, 11/2, 11/2)" [2.5 (4,

4, 4) cm].

PiCoT Hemmed Cuff (even number of sts) (see page 14)

— Knit 13 rnds, or approx 1" (2.5 cm).

— Turning Rnd: *K2tog, yo; rep from *

to end.

— Knit 12 rnds, or 1 rnd less than before

Turning Rnd.

Note: Finished cuff is 1" long.

See page 23 for finishing instructions.

TOE — Using waste yarn, working needle,

and provisional CO, CO 10 (10, 12, 12) sts. Change to working yarn. Work 6 rows in st st, beg with a purl row; do not cut yarn.

— Rotate the toe so that the provisional CO is on top. Unravel the CO and place the resulting 10 (10, 12, 12) sts onto 2 needles (instep sts), then divide the other sts onto 2 needles (sole sts)—20 (20, 24, 24) sts. Join; pm for beg of rnd and work in the rnd as follows:

— Inc Rnd: Needle 1: K1, M1R, knit to end of needle; Needle 2: Knit to last st on needle, M1L, k1; Needles 3 and 4: Repeat Needles 1 and 2—4 sts inc.

— Rep Inc Rnd every other rnd 8 (10, 11, 13) more times—56 (64, 72, 80) sts.

FOOT — Rearrange sts so that instep sts are

on 1 needle and sole sts are on 2 needles. Beg st st (knit every rnd) or your chosen st pattern (see Notes). Work even until piece measures 73/4 (81/4, 91/4, 91/4)" [19.5 (21, 23.5, 23.5) cm] from the beg, ending after working across the instep sts on

22 | | 23

the final rnd, rearranging the sts if necessary if you worked a st pattern other than st st (see page 24 for allover st patterns; see page 32 for panel st patterns). You will work heel on next 28 (32, 36, 40) heel sts only, leaving instep sts out of work on instep needle. Remove beg-of-rnd marker.

SHORT-ROW HEEL — Short Row 1 (RS): K27 (31, 35, 39) w&t. — Short Row 2 (WS): P26 (30, 34, 38) w&t. — Short Row 3: Knit to 1 st before

wrapped st, w&t.

— Short Row 4: Purl to 1 st before wrapped st, w&t.

— Rep Short Rows 3 and 4 until 12 (12, 14, 14) sts remain between wraps in the middle of the heel, ending with a WS row.

— Note: You may work wraps tog with wrapped sts as you come to them, or leave wraps in place.

— Short Row 5 (RS): Knit to first wrapped st, knit wrapped st, w&t.

— Short Row 6 (WS): Purl to first wrapped st, purl wrapped st, w&t.

— Short Row 7: Knit to double- wrapped st, knit wrapped st, w&t.

— Short Row 8: Purl to double- wrapped st, purl wrapped st, w&t.

— Rep Short Rows 7 and 8 until all wrapped sts have been worked. Note: On last rep of Short Rows 7 and 8, you will work the final w&t of each row on the first st on either side of the heel sts.

— Partial Rnd: Work to end of heel. Rearrange sts if necessary if you worked a st pattern other than st st (see page 24 or 32). Rejoin for working in the rnd; pm for beg of rnd.

LEG — Work even, resuming the st pattern

as established or working the allover pattern around the entire leg (see page 24 or 32) until piece measures 51/2 (51/2, 6, 61/2)" [14 (14, 15, 16.5) cm] from bottom of heel [5.5 (5.5, 6, 6.5)" [14 (14, 15, 16.5) cm] if working Picot Hemmed Cuff, or to approx 1 (11/2, 11/2, 11/2)" [2.5 (4, 4, 4) cm] less than desired length [1" (2.5 cm) if working Picot Hemmed Cuff ].

— Choose your cuff pattern; work even until cuff pattern is complete.

— BO all sts in pattern.

finiSHing — If you worked Picot Hemmed Cuff,

fold hem over at Turning Rnd and lightly tack CO edge to WS; do not to let sts show on RS, and make sure sts are loose enough so cuff fits over foot.

— Weave in ends; block as desired.

24 | | 25

Allover stitch patterns are worked around the entire leg and down or up the center of the instep. You may choose your allover pattern from any one of 7 stitch patterns (on pages 26–31).

All of the allover patterns are given in both written and charted formats. There is one chart for each of the allover pat-terns, but you will notice that most of the written allover instructions have a “for Leg” version and a “for Instep” version. The “for Leg” version gives you a set repeat to work around the leg, and the “for Instep” version has a few additional stitches (shaded in gray on the charts) at the end so that the pattern is balanced on both sides when working the instep.

Note that the Right and Left Diagonal Ribs can be worked from the single version given for both the instep and the leg; use the Right Diagonal Ribs for one sock and the Left Diagonal Ribs for the other so the socks mirror each other.

Cuff-down SoCkSLeg: Use the “for Leg” version if working from the written pattern. If working from the charted pattern, omit the gray shaded stitches and work only the repeated stitches.

Begin Heel: Roughly center the pattern across the instep stitches, shifting 1 or 2 stitch(es) to or from each side of the instep if necessary, keeping the same number of stitches for both instep and heel. It is OK if the pattern is 1 stitch off-center, as it won’t be noticeable.

End Heel/Begin Foot: After completing the heel, center the pattern on the instep stitches again. Move the beginning of the round if necessary so that it is at the beginning of the pattern. You will work the pattern on the instep stitches and stockinette stitch on the sole stitches. Place a marker at a point in the stitch pattern that will center the pattern on the instep and balance the beginning and end

of the pattern. It is OK if you don’t have the same number of stitches for both instep and heel at this point.

Foot: If you are working from the written instructions, use the “for Instep” version (beginning with the round following the last round worked before working the heel). If working from the charted pattern, work the entire chart, including the gray shaded stitches, repeating the stitches indicated. Work even until you are ready to begin the toe, then rearrange stitches if necessary so that the beginning-of-round marker is between the instep and the sole stitches.

Toe-uP SoCkSBegin Foot: Use the “for Instep” version if working from the written pattern. If working from the charted instructions, work the entire chart, including the gray shaded stitches, repeating the stitches indicated. Roughly center the pattern on the instep needle(s), shifting 1 or 2 stitch(es) to or from each side of the instep to the sole if necessary. It is OK if the pattern is 1 stitch off-center and if you don’t have the same number of stitches for both instep and sole if necessary.

End Foot/Begin Heel: After completing the foot, you may need to shift 1 or 2 stitch(es) to or from the instep to the heel in order to have the same number of stitches for both instep and heel; keep the pattern roughly centered on the instep stitches. It is OK if the pattern is 1 stitch off-center, as it won’t be noticeable.

Begin Leg: Shift stitches again to work the pattern across all stitches, placing the beginning-of-round marker at the begin-ning of the pattern on the instep stitches. Use the “for Leg” version if working from the written instructions. If working from the charted instructions, omit the gray shaded stitches and work only the repeated stitches.

EXPLORING ALLOVER STITCH PATTERNS

26 | | 27

Seeded Rib foR leg (multiple of 4 sts)

— Rnd 1: *K3, p1; rep from * to end.

— Rnd 2: P1, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to

last 2 sts, p2.

— Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Seeded Rib for

Leg.

Seeded Rib foR inSTeP (multiple of 4 sts + 3)

— Rnd 1: *K3, p1; rep from * to last 3

sts, k3.


last st, p1.

— Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Seeded Rib for

Instep.

bASkeT weAve foR leg (multiple of 8 sts)

— Rnd 1: Knit.

— Rnds 2–4: *K3, p5; rep from * to

end.

— Rnd 5: Knit.

— Rnds 6–8: P4, k3, *p5, k3; rep from

* to last st, p1.

— Rep Rnds 1–8 for Basket Weave for

Leg.

bASkeT weAve foR inSTeP(multiple of 8 sts + 3)

— Rnd 1: Knit.

— Rnds 2–4: *K3, p5; rep from * to last

3 sts, k3.

— Rnd 5: Knit.

— Rnds 6–8: P4, k3, *p5, k3; rep from

* to last 4 sts, p4.

— Rep Rnds 1–8 for Basket Weave for

Instep.

Top to bottom: Seeded Rib, Basket Weave, Alternating Slip Stitch.

Knit

Purl

Slip 1 wyib

Rep only this section when working allover pa�ern on all sts.

When working allover pa�ern only on instep sts, work these sts on the last 3 sts of the instep a�er working the repeated sts.

2-rn

d re

p

Seeded Rib

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

peat

3

1

7

5

8-st rep

Basket Weave

Alternating Slip Stitch

12-r

nd re

peat

3

1

7

5

11

9

4-st rep

Knit

Purl

Slip 1 wyib



2-rn

d re

p

Seeded Rib

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

peat

3

1

7

5

8-st rep

Basket Weave


12-r

nd re

peat

3

1

7

5

11

9

4-st rep

28 | | 29

AlTeRnATing SliP STiTCH foR leg (multiple of 4 sts)

— Rnds 1–4: *K3, sl 1 wyib; rep from *

to end.

— Rnd 5: Knit.

— Rnd 6: *P3, k1; rep from * to end.

— Rnds 7–10: K1, sl 1 wyib, *k3, slip 1

wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

— Rnd 11: Knit.


last 2 sts, p2.

— Rep Rnds 1–12 for Alternating Slip

Stitch for Leg.

AlTeRnATing SliP STiTCH foR inSTeP (multiple of 4 sts + 3)

— Rnds 1–4: *K3, sl 1 wyib; rep from *

to last 3 sts, k3.

— Rnd 5: Knit.

— Rnd 6: *P3, k1; rep from * to last 3

sts, p3.

— Rnds 7–10: K1, sl 1 wyib, *k3, slip 1

wyib; rep from * to last st, k1.

— Rnd 11: Knit.


last st, p1.

— Rep Rnds 1–12 for Alternating Slip

Stitch for Instep.

Knit

Purl

Slip 1 wyib



2-rn

d re

p

Seeded Rib

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

peat

3

1

7

5

8-st rep

Basket Weave


12-r

nd re

peat

3

1

7

5

11

9

4-st rep

Knit

Purl

Slip 1 wyib



2-rn

d re

p

Seeded Rib

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

peat

3

1

7

5

8-st rep

Basket Weave


12-r

nd re

peat

3

1

7

5

11

9

4-st rep

elongATed CoRded Rib foR leg (multiple of 4 sts)

— Rnds 1 and 2: *K2, p2; rep from * to

end.

— Rnd 3: *Ssk, yo, p2; rep from * to

end.

— Rnds 4–6: *K2, p2; rep from * to

end.

— Rnd 7: *Yo, k2tog, p2; rep from * to

end.

— Rnd 8: *K2, p2, rep from * to end.

— Rep Rnds 1–8 for Elongated Corded

Rib for Leg.

elongATed CoRded Rib foR inSTeP (multiple of 4 sts + 2)

— Rnds 1 and 2: *K2, p2; rep from * to

last 2 sts, k2.

— Rnd 3: *Ssk, yo, p2; rep from * to

last 2 sts, ssk, yo.

— Rnds 4–6: *K2, p2; rep from * to last

2 sts, k2.

— Rnd 7: *Yo, k2tog, p2; rep from * to

last 2 sts, yo, k2tog.

— Rnd 8: *K2, p2, rep from * to last 2

sts, k2.

— Rep Rnds 1–8 for Elongated Corded

Rib for Instep.

Knit

Yo

K2tog

Purl

Ssk


When working allover pa�ern only on instep sts, work these sts on the last 1 or 2 st(s) of the instep a�er working the repeated sts.

8-rn

d re

p

Seersucker Stitch

7

5

3

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

p

Elongated Corded Rib

7

5

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Right Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep4-

rnd

rep

Le� Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

Knit

Yo

K2tog

Purl

Ssk



8-rn

d re

p

Seersucker Stitch

7

5

3

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

p


7

5

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Right Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Le� Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

See photo of Alternating Slip Stitch on page 27.

See photo of Elongated Corded Rib on page 30.

30 | | 31

RigHT diAgonAl Rib (multiple of 4 sts)


— Rnd 2: P1, k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last

st, p1.


— Rnd 4: K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to

last, st, k1.

— Rep Rnds 1–4 for Right Diagonal Rib.

lefT diAgonAl Rib (multiple of 4 sts) (not shown)


— Rnd 2: P1, k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last

st, p1.


— Rnd 4: K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last

st, k1.

— Rep Rnds 1–4 for Left Diagonal Rib.

SeeRSuCkeR STiTCH foR leg (multiple of 4 sts)

— Rnds 1 and 2: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

— Rnds 3 and 4: *P1, k3; rep from * to end.

— Rnds 5 and 6: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

— Rnds 7 and 8: K2, *p1, k3: rep from * to

last 2 sts, p1, k1.

— Rep Rnds 1–8 of Seersucker St for Leg.

SeeRSuCkeR STiTCH foR inSTeP (multiple of 4 sts + 1) (shown on sample)

— Rnds 1 and 2: *K1, p1; rep from * to last

st, k1.

— Rnds 3 and 4: *P1, k3; rep from * to last

st, p1.

— Rnds 5 and 6: *K1, p1; rep from * to last

st, k1.

— Rnds 7 and 8: K2, *p1, k3: rep from * to

last 3 sts, p1, k2.

— Rep Rnds 1–8 of Seersucker St for instep.

Knit

Yo

K2tog

Purl

Ssk



8-rn

d re

p

Seersucker Stitch

7

5

3

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

p


7

5

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Right Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Le� Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

Knit

Yo

K2tog

Purl

Ssk



8-rn

d re

p

Seersucker Stitch

7

5

3

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

p


7

5

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Right Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Le� Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

Top to bottom: Seersucker, Elongated Corded Rib, Right Diagonal Rib.

Knit

Yo

K2tog

Purl

Ssk



8-rn

d re

p

Seersucker Stitch

7

5

3

1

4-st rep

8-rn

d re

p


7

5

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Right Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

4-rn

d re

p

Le� Diagonal Rib

3

1

4-st rep

32 | | 33

Panel stitch patterns are worked in a panel in the center of the leg and instep. You may choose your panel pattern from any one of 6 stitch patterns on pages 34–37.

All of the panel patterns offer both written and charted formats. Unlike the allover patterns on pages 26–31, there is only one version of the written instructions.

Cuff-down SoCkSLeg: Roughly center the pattern on the instep needle(s) (with a marker on either side of it) by subtracting the panel stitches from the instep stitches, then dividing by 2. Round up if necessary, then count over that many stitches from the beginning-of-round marker and place the first panel marker; place the second at the end of the panel. It is OK if the pattern is 1 stitch off-center, as it won’t be noticeable.

End Heel/Begin Foot: Continue working the pattern as established between the markers until the foot is complete.

Toe-uP SoCkSFoot: When the toe is complete, roughly center the pattern on the instep needle(s) (with a marker on either side of it) by sub-tracting the panel stitches from the instep stitches, then dividing by 2. Round up if necessary, then count over that many stitches from the beginning-of-round marker and place the first panel marker; place the second at the end of the panel. It is OK if the pattern is 1 stitch off-center, as it won’t be noticeable.

End Foot/Begin Heel: Rearrange the stitches so that you have the same number of stitches on the instep and heel needles, keeping the pattern roughly centered on the instep stitches.

End Heel/Begin Leg: Continue working the pattern as established between the markers until the leg is complete.

EXPLORING PANEL STITCH PATTERNS

34 | | 35

Top to bottom: Waving Rib, Italian Chain Rib, Twisted Rib and Garter.

PANEL PATTERNS

wAving Rib (panel of 20 sts)

— Rnds 1–4: P2, [k4, p2] 3 times.

— Rnds 5–8: K3, p2, [k4, p2] twice, k3.

— Rep Rnds 1–8 for Waving Rib.

iTAliAn CHAin Rib (panel of 22 sts)

— Rnd 1: K1-tbl, p2, [k4, p2] 3 times,

k1-tbl.

— Rnd 2: K1-tbl, p2, [k2tog, (yo) twice,

ssk, p2] 3 times, k1-tbl.

— Rnd 3: K1-tbl, p2, [k1, (k1-tbl, k1) into

double yo, k1, p2] 3 times, k1-tbl.

— Rnd 4: K1-tbl, p2, [yo, ssk, k2tog, yo,

p2] 3 times, k1-tbl.

— Rep Rnds 1–4 for Italian Chain Rib.

TwiSTed Rib And gARTeR(panel of 18 sts)

1/2 RC: Skip first 2 sts on left needle and

knit into front leg of third st, knit first

and second sts (dropping them from left

needle as you knit them), then drop third

st from left needle.

— Rnd 1: P2, k3, p8, k3, p2.

— Rnd 2: P2, 1/2 RC, k8, 1/2 RC, p2.

— Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Twisted Rib

and Garter.

(K1-tbl, k1) into double yo

Knit

Yo

K2tog

Purl

K1-tbl

Ssk

1/2 RC (see wri�en instructions)

8-rn

d re

p

Waving Rib

7

5

3

1

rep 3 times

4-rn

d re

peat

3

1

rep 3 times

Italian Chain Rib

2-rn

d re

peat

18-st panel

1

Twisted Rib and Garter

36 | | 37

TwiSTed Rib (panel of 19 sts)

1/2 RC: Skip first 2 sts on left needle and

knit into front leg of third st, knit first

and second sts (dropping them from left

needle as you knit them), then drop third

st from left needle.

— Rnd 1: K1, p2, [k3, p2] 3 times, k1.

— Rnd 2: K1-tbl, p2, [1/2 RC, p2] 3

times, k1-tbl.

— Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Twisted Rib.

liTTle TenTS (panel of 23 sts)

Catch Float: Insert right needle upward

under float in front of slipped sts and knit

next st, then lift the float off over tip of

right needle.

— Rnd 1: P2, [k5, p2] 3 times.

— Rnd 2: K2, [sl 5 wyif, k2] 3 times.

— Rnd 3: P2, [k5, p2] 3 times.

— Rnd 4: K4, catch float, [k6, catch

float] twice, k4.

— Rep Rnds 1–4 for Little Tents.

double eyeleT Rib (panel of 23 sts)

— Rnd 1: P2, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p2]

3 times.

— Rnds 2–4: P2, [k5, p2] 3 times.

— Rep Rnds 1–4 for Double Eyelet Rib.

Knit

Yo

K2tog

Purl

K1-tbl

Sl 1 wyif

Ssk

1/2 RC (see wri�en instructions)

Catch Float (see wri�en instructions)

2-rn

d re

peat

rep 3 times

1

Twisted Rib

4-rn

d re

peat3

1

rep 3 times

4

2

Li�le Tents

4-rn

d re

peat3

1

rep 3 times

4

2

Double Eyelet Rib

Top to bottom: Twisted Rib, Little Tents, Double Eyelet Rib.

38 | | 39

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx: ApproximatelyBeg: Begin(ning)(s)BO: Bind offCO: Cast onDec: Decreas(ed)(es)(ing)Dpn: Double-pointed needle(s)Inc: Increas(ed)(es)(ing)K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together. One

stitch has been decreased.K: KnitM1L: (make 1 left) Insert left

needle from front to back under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Knit this strand through the back loop. One stitch has been increased.

M1R: (make 1 right) Insert left needle from back to front under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Knit this strand through the front loop. One stitch has been increased.

P: PurlPm: Place markerRep: Repeat(ed)(ing)(s)

Rnd(s): Round(s)RS: Right sideSl: SlipSm: Slip markerSsk: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip

1 stitch purlwise, insert left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together from this position. One stitch has been decreased.

St st: stockinette stitchSt(s): Stitch(es)Tbl: Through the back loop(s)Tog: TogetherWS: Wrong sideW&t: Wrap and turn. On a knit

row, move yarn to the front of work, slip next stitch, take yarn to the back of work, slip wrapped stitch to left needle. Turn work. On a purl row, move yarn to the back of work, slip next stitch, bring yarn to the front of work, slip wrapped stitch back to left needle, turn work.

Wyib: With yarn in backWyif: With yarn in front

Small Medium Large X-Large

Total stitches 56 64 72 80

Cuff length in ribbing 1"2.5 cm

1.5"4 cm

1.5"4 cm

1.5"4 cm

Total leg length from COedge to beginning of heel

51/4"13.5 cm

51/4"13.5 cm

53/4"14.5 cm

53/4"14.5 cm

Heel stitches at beginning 28 32 36 40

Heel stitches betweenwraps before Short-Row 5

12 12 14 14

Heel length 11/4"3 cm

13/4"4.5 cm

13/4"4.5 cm

21/4"5.5 cm

Total leg length from topof cuff to base of heel

61/2"16.5 cm

7"18 cm

71/2"19 cm

8"20.5 cm

Total foot length 9"23 cm

10"25.5 cm

11"28 cm

111/2"29 cm

Foot length between heel and toe

61/4"16 cm

61/2"16.5 cm

71/4"18.5 cm

7"18 cm

Toe length 11/2"4 cm

13/4"4.5 cm

2"5 cm

21/4"5.5 cm

Total toe stitches 20 20 24 24

Toe stitches on each needle/ stitches for provisional CO

10 10 12 12

SOCKS ON THE GO

Use this cheat chart to make socks without referring to a pattern at the gauge of 32 sts and 48 rnds = 4" (10 cm) over stockinette st (the gauge of the socks in this Field Guide). If you’re working top down, start at the top. Working toe up? Start from the bottom.

40 |

MEET WENDY BERNARD

Wendy Bernard is a knitwear designer based in Southern California. She is the author of the Custom Knits series of books in which she shares flexible garment patterns along with techniques for personalizing them as you go, plus three groundbreaking stitch dictionaries with instructions for working stitch patterns in multiple directions: Up, Down, All-Around Stitch Dictionary, The Knitting All Around Stitch Dictionary, and Japanese Stitches Unraveled.

About fifteen years ago, intrigued with the self-patterning sock yarn at her LYS,

she decided to embark on her first pair of socks following the directions in a Leisure Arts booklet. Since then she estimates that she has made at least a hundred pairs. “I always have two pair on the needles and another ball of yarn on deck. I’ve made socks for everyone,” she says. “I have socks stacked up in my drawer waiting to be passed out.” She will often knit both socks in a pair at the same time on two circulars, or one sock at a time on one circular or set of double-point needles. And if she’s feeling a case of “second-sock syndrome” sneaking up on her, she will get two sets of same-size needles and work each element of the pair one at a time by knitting the cuff of one sock, then the cuff of the other, and so on.

Wendy’s parents (a musician and a fine artist) always told her that there wasn’t a “right way” to do things. “I was encour-aged to do what made sense to me, so I guess that being flexible and providing others with the tools they need to impro-vise or put their own stamp on their work is embedded in me,” she says. “I want to help others trust their instincts, because that is what makes making fun.”

ouR miSSion

Mason-Dixon Knitting serves knitters by creating an ever-evolving world online and in real life where knitting is celebrated, explored, and taught. It is a place of rich community, creativity, curiosity, and humor—the ultimate rabbit hole for knitters.

Please visit us online where you will find stories, inspiration, a laugh, and great conversations in The Lounge, our forum. And you can shop. We bring in only the yarns we want to knit with, the patterns we want to explore. While supplies last, you’ll definitely find the yarn for all the projects in this MDK Field Guide.

Mason-Dixon Knitting Field Guide No. 11

Copyright © 2019 by Modern Knitting Media, llc

Photographs copyright © 2019 Elysa Weitala (unless otherwise noted). Photograph on page 40 copyright © 2019 Theron Photography.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information, write to us at [email protected].

The purchase of this book allows you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes. Items produced using the directions in this book are not licensed to be sold for profit.

editor/creative director: Melanie FalickGraphic desiGner: Will BradyphotoGrapher: Elysa Weitalaphotostylist: Alessandra Mortolatechnical editor: Sue McCainsaMple knitters: Megan O’Byrne, Haley Parker, and Nell Ziroli

Printed in Canada.

ISBN: 978-1-7339456-0-8

9 781733 945608

90000ISBN 978-1-7339456-0-8

Mason-Dixon Knitting Field Guides are little books that explore the big world of knitting, with patterns and stories to inspire the curious knitter.

FIELD GUIDE NO. 11 Designs by Wendy Bernard

Cuff-down SoCkS

Toe-uP SoCkS

And 13 delicious stitch patterns to choose from

Visit MasonDixonKnitting.com to be part of a vibrant online community— to laugh, to learn, to shop.

WANDERLUST - Modern Daily Knitting · 2020-06-09 · INTRODUCTION W hat’s the first trip you...

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