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SEPTEMBER 2008 THE LATEST IN SURGICAL AND NON-SURGICAL DEVELOPMENTS

COSMETIC PROCEDURES

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COSMETIC PROCEDURES

No one can get away from aging, but the roaddivides when it comes to how to age; thesmart way or the uninformed way. A new

study commissioned by the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS),the world’s largest association of facial plastic and re-constructive surgeons with over 3,000 members, andconducted by Kelton Research shows that the major-ity of people look for an experienced, certified facialplastic surgeon over generalists when it comes to facial plastic surgery. Americans trust their faces tothe expertise of facial plastic surgeons.

The majority of Americans siding with expertise areemploying informed decision-making skills, reinforc-ing their desire to make smart choices. In fact, 80 per-cent of Americans trust their faces to the surgicalexpertise and care of a facial plastic surgeon who spe-cializes in cosmetic surgery of the head, face and neckover generalists. According to the survey, Americansages 18-64 are most reliant on facial plastic surgeons,as evidenced by the fact that 83 percent believe theyare more qualified to treat their specialized areas thangeneral plastic surgeons.

With the vast number of surgeons in practice today,it is more important than ever to make informed decisions when considering an elective procedure suchas facial cosmetic surgery. Informed decision makingis especially crucial as more than half of patients (53percent) have had multiple procedures in the sameyear. Survey results reflect that parents take more in-terest in the surgeon’s years of experience than theirchildless counterparts (54 percent versus 46 percent).

AAFPRS training is thorough and rigorous. Unlikeother surgeons, AAFPRS surgeons not only completea four year specialized residency in Otolaryngology-Head and Neck Surgery which includes Facial Plastic Surgery, but many also undergo an additionalone-year AAFPRS fellowship in Facial Plastic Surgery and become certified by the American Boardof Otolaryngology and in many cases, also certifiedby the American Board of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery.

The AAFPRS recommends the following tips to assist in making educated decisions when choosing thebest surgeon for each individual’s specific needs:• Do your homework. Check to make sure that the surgeon’s area of expertise and correspondingboard certification is in facial plastic surgery. The AAFPRS interactive Web site - www.facemd.org – will confirm a facial plastic surgeon’s membershipto this organization.

• Be informed. The AAFPRS can also be utilized toobtain complimentary background materials onspecific procedures. Studying these materials before contacting a surgeon makes the patient betterinformed and can help to develop a list of questionsto ask prospective surgeons.

“It is important to check that the surgeon is operatingin an accredited facility,” says Dr. Vito C. Quatela, MD,FACS, president of the AAFPRS, and Associate ClinicalProfessor at the Department of Otolaryngology, Facial Plastic Surgery at the University of Rochester.“The AAFPRS mandates that all its members operated inaccredited facilities.

“When we conducted our survey, we wanted to findout where people placed their trust: we were actuallysurprised by how high the statistic was. It becameclear that people who want a facial plastic procedurewere going to place their trust in a facial plasticsurgeon,” he continues.

Women have the utmost faith in facial plastic surgeons when it comes to turning back the hands oftime as it relates to one’s face. Eighty-three percent be-lieve that facial plastic surgeons are more competent totreat their faces, heads, or necks than a general plasticsurgeon; 78 percent of men agree.

The AAFPRS also reports that 85 percent of adultAmericans would undergo a facial plastic surgery procedure if given the chance. This same survey reported a 27 percent increase in surgical and non-surgical activity among men and women since 2000.

But what, exactly, would Americans get done if theyhad the chance of having a free service by a facial plastic surgeon? Twenty-six percent admitted to want-ing an eye lift, followed by neck surgery (21 percent),hair transplants (16 percent), nose jobs (14 percent),facelifts (13 percent), chin augmentation (7 percent), andlip enhancement (3 percent).

The AAFPRS provides consumers with free informa-tion and brochures and a list of qualified facial plasticsurgeons in their area by visiting the AAFPRS Web site,www.facemd.org. To schedule an interview with an AAF-PRS leader, please contact Melissa Kelz at 212 986 7000.

Whether you desire whiterteeth or want to improve thelook of a smile you never felt

quite comfortable with, the AmericanAcademy of Cosmetic Dentistry (AACD),the world’s largest non-profit member-ship organization dedicated to advanc-ing excellence in cosmetic dentistry, canconnect you with a dentist near you.

"Good communication between den-tists and their patients is more impor-

tant today than ever before,” says AACDvice president, Dr. Hugh Flax. “Don’t bealarmed if you have some work to do onyour end before undergoing a cosmeticdental procedure. Cosmetic dentistry isnot just about looks, it is overall oralcare that combines art and science toimprove dental health and function, aswell as aesthetics. Finding someone whostrives to collaborate with you to createthat balance is very important to

achieving long-term wellness andbeauty. It’s a winning combination thatwill keep you smiling for many years”

Through progressive cosmetic dentalcontinuing education, the AACD offersdental professionals educational op-tions for any learning style. Cosmeticdentistry's most recognized credential-ing program for dentists and dental laboratory technicians, Accreditation, is maintained by the AACD. In addition,

the AACD Charitable Foundation’sprimary program Give Back A Smile, anational anti-domestic violence pro-gram, has restored the smiles - and thelives - of more than 600 survivors ofdomestic violence.For more information about cosmeticdentistry, the Give Back A Smile program,or to find an AACD member dentist nearyou visit www.aacd.com or call 800 5439220.

CONTENTS2 EXPERIENCE COUNTS

A new survey finds that the vast majority of Americans have overwhelming confidence in facial plastic surgeons.

2 CHOOSING THE RIGHT COSMETIC DENTISTHow to select the best dentist for your cosmetic work.

2 COSMETIC TREATMENTS TODAY AND TOMORROWThe development of cosmetic procedures, and what may lie ahead.

3 COSMETIC COUNTDOWNA look at America’s most popular cosmetic procedures.

3 SURGERY IN THE SUNHow to save money by traveling further.

3 MEDICAL SPASSpa treatments with trained medical personnel are the new way to achieve a new look.

6 BILLION-DOLLAR BEAUTYThe American cosmetic product industry continues to boom.

6 HEALING THE WOUNDFighting abnormal scarring with silicon gel.

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The mass popularization of cos-metic surgery has in no smallway been enhanced by reality

television shows such as ExtremeMakeover and The Swan. Taking thosewho feel debilitated by their perceivedflaws, the contestants receive varyingdegrees of cosmetic and plastic surgery,usually resulting in dramatic results.

Whilst the vast majority of thosehaving cosmetic procedures are proba-bly not going to such extreme lengths,the way we consider such treatmentshas seen a huge shift towards completenormalization, perhaps even associat-ing surgical procedures such as faceliftswith cosmetic dental work. The point isthat the market for surgery has neverbeen as big, or as in demand.

The American Society for AestheticPlastic Surgery reported that almost11.7 million procedures, both surgicaland non-surgical, were carried out intheUS last year. An overwhelming ma-jority of those – 82 percent – were fornon-surgical procedures. It is probablyin this area that both developments andaccessibility have changed the most.

Botox continues to be a hugely popular way of treating the skin for

lines and wrinkles, helping to smoothout the contours – primarily on the faceand neck, but in other areas also. Ac-cording to the most recent figures re-leased by the American Society ofPlastic Surgeons, some 4.6 millionBotox procedures were carried out in2007 – more than any other type ofnon-surgical treatment.

The same figures show that some347,500 breast augmentation proce-dures were completed last year – thehighest total for a cosmetic surgicaltreatment. One major development inthis area was the FDA’s approval of sil-icon gel implants in late 2006. Up untilthen, the majority of breast augmenta-tion operations used saline-filled im-plants, unlike in Europe or elsewhere,where silicon gel was the norm. Asso-ciated problems with the saline im-plants included leakage and the implantpossibly becoming deformed, and noticeable under the skin. Silicon gelimplants are generally filled with semi-solid gel, and are arguably lesslikely to tear, or move within the con-fines of the breast.

With the advent of the ‘medical spa’,and the chance for people to have somenon-surgical treatments over the courseof minutes, rather than hours, proce-dures such as microdermabrasion and

laser treatments have leapt in popular-ity. Microdermabrasion is designed toremove the top layer of dead skin cellsby running tiny crystals over the facialsurface. The treatment stimulates theproduction of new cells, and helps toeliminate the effects of lines and blem-ishes. Laser skin treatments can help toremove bumps and marks caused by avariety of reasons, making the skinsmoother and firmer.

One of the major benefits of suchtreatments is that they carry out a sim-ilar job to cosmetic products, but pro-duce results in a much shorter space oftime. The psychological effects of thattimeframe should not be overlooked. In our ‘on-demand’ society, where noone wants to wait, being able to seemarked results within the space of afew minutes can have a profound impact on one’s own self-esteem andbodily perceptions.

In terms of the future direction ofcosmetic surgery, one aspect is alreadyapparent. The market is welcoming anew male demographic quite quickly.As the market for male cosmetic products has increased – the so-calledrise of metrosexuality, as the Britishhave called it – so has interest in cos-metic surgery. Of particular interestwill be procedures to minimize or re-

place hair-loss, as well as the estab-lished procedures such as lifts, fat-re-moval and suchlike.

Another area of development will befor the rising numbers of AfricanAmericans, Hispanics, Asians, and

other people of color who are seekingcosmetic procedures. With different re-quirements, and perhaps notions ofhow to look, the challenge for surgicaland non-surgical providers alike is howto meet the needs of these new markets.

Cosmetic treatments todayand tomorrow

BY DAVID JØRGENSEN

How cosmetic treatments have developed, and what the future may hold

Thanks to

Experience Counts

Choosing the right cosmetic dentist

VITO C. QUATELA, MD, FACS President, American Academy of

Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery Associate Clinical

Professor, Dept. of Otolaryngology – Facial Plastic Surgery,

University of Rochester

With thanks to the American Society ofPlastic Surgeons and the AmericanSociety for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery for statistical data.

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COSMETIC PROCEDURES

Recognizing the demand for more intensivecosmetic treatments, the traditional con-cept of the spa is changing rapidly into its

newer incarnation – a blend of a spa atmospherewith a medical center. The ‘medical spa’ offersthe client a range of treatments – from a basic fa-cial to a chemical peel, for example – with a doc-tor and trained medical staff on hand.

Catering to those who can afford to spend sometime at a spa, but who want more rapid resultsthan what conventional spa treatments can ac-complish in the same period, medical spas canprovide professional peace-of-mind to those whomay not have considered the possibilities of cos-metic procedures before.

Such ‘extreme’ treatments have actually be-come less so in the eyes of their adherents andothers, perhaps as a result of seeing celebritiesand, increasingly, contemporaries, enjoying theirbenefits. It is still important to remember, though,that having a procedure such as Botox and fillersrequire trained medical professionals, such as aphysician or physician-supervised nurse or PA(physician's assistant).

This is especially the case with medical spasthat cater to another market – those who want toenjoy the benefits of cosmetic treatments, but donot have the time to spend in a spa. Being ableto ‘drop by’ for a quick shot of Botox in a lunchhour has become commonplace.

"The most popular treatments my clients cometo me for outside of Botox and Fillers are lasertreatments like laser hair removal, laser skin reju-venation, laser acne treatments, and Skin Tyte, alaser procedure to tighten skin on the face, neck,and other body parts. Medical microdermabra-sion is tremendously popular too," says Dr.Loveleen Sood MD. Dr Sood started the SimplyBeautiful MedSpa in Lower Westchester, NewYork, earlier this year, after studying aestheticmedicine for years.

“The treatments on offer here are simple, non-

invasive, non-surgical procedures that a clientcan come and have done in an hour or so, andreally revitalize the way they look – throughBotox, skin rejuvenation, and so on,” she contin-ues. “The concept is to come into the spa, havesomething done that is simple and easy, but en-hances the way you look and feel in a short spaceof time.”

Offering such services – primarily to women,but, in slowly increasing numbers, to men also –with the backing of professional medical opinionhas undoubtedly persuaded many people of theirbenefits. Such treatments are not without theirrisks, however: one should never contemplate anintensive medical treatment outside of the pro-fessional environment as they might a facial oranother spa treatment. Medical spas with the di-rect involvement of medical professionals do ful-fill a need for careful monitoring of suchprocedures, giving peace of mind to clients.

Whilst the availabilityand consequent pop-ularity of cosmetic

surgery and other treatmentshas grown at a huge rate – a457 percent increase in the USbetween 1997 and 2007 – thefact remains that for a greatdeal of those opting to undergosuch treatments, there is also alarge financial burden. As cos-metic surgery providers targettheir services to a wider market,it is unsurprising that clients are exercising their consumer in-stincts and looking for the best deal available.

Traveling outside of the USfor any number of elective pro-cedures is now widespread.Nearby countries, such as CostaRica or Mexico offer facilitieson a par with those found athome, and clinics in places fur-ther afield – Brazil, Argentina,or even India – are now wel-coming patients willing to makethe journey, but still savingthousands of dollars on thecosts of their treatments.

Unlike visiting a clinic at

home, however, such trips require careful planning and attention to detail. Recognizingthis, many companies now offercomplete packages targeted di-rectly at the ‘cosmetic tourist’.

“We help patients with alltheir arrangements: airfare,transfers, doctor appointments,explaining and showing themwho will be performing the sur-gery,” says Emilio Arana, CEOof MedTravel Costa Rica, atourism company specializingin cosmetic and medicaltourism. “We also show pa-tients, where the procedure willtake place, advise about special-ist hotels with nurses-on-call24/7, and so on.”

According to Arana, visitorsto Costa Rica at least can expectto save between 50–70 percenton the costs of dental proce-dures, and between 60–70 percent on cosmetic treatments,compared to equivalent prices in the US. This, essen-tially, is the reason that increas-ing numbers of Americans are making longer journeys for such procedures: being as-sured of the same care as they would receive closer to

With almost 12 million cosmetic procedures – andanother ten million non-in-

vasive cosmetic treatments – carriedout in the US in 2007, it is probably ac-curate to say that Americans have em-braced the benefits that suchprocedures can deliver. Figures showthat there was a 64 percent increase in breast augmentation procedures between 2000 and 2007, with a 137

percent increase in abdominoplasty operations during the same period.There was a 14 percent increase in thenumbers opting to have a facelift between 2006 and 2007 alone.

Non-surgical procedures have alsoseen dramatic rises in popularity.Botox, one of the most well knowntreatments, leapt by 488 percent be-tween 2000 and 2007. Overall, non-surgical treatments grew by 81 percentin the same timeframe.• Data from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons.

home, but for a fraction of the cost.

“Costa Rica is actually knownas a ‘cosmetic paradise’, offeringany number of treatments [toUS visitors],” continues Arana,explaining why visitors arechoosing the country in ever-in-creasing numbers.

Those considering traveling toanother country for treatment,however, need to consider care-fully what is best for their ownneeds. Whilst the financial ben-efits are abundantly clear, plan-ning and research is vitallyimportant. Potential patientsshould investigate what servicesare available with different com-panies, and find out what pre-and post-surgery care is on offer.Also make contact with otherswho have already traveled downthis route – many of us will visita dentist or ophthalmologist onthe recommendation of someoneelse, so the same rule can stillapply. Using a travel companythat caters for American visitorswill also help when it comes toanswering questions in plainEnglish, and ensuring that all therelevant information has beengiven to the patient beforehand.

Medical spas: aninside-and-outmakeoverBY DAVID JØRGENSEN

BY DAVID JØRGENSEN

BY DAVID JØRGENSEN

Surgery in the sun

Cosmetic countdown:the most popular procedures

SURGICAL PROCEDURES

NON-SURGICAL TREATMENTS

The following most-popular procedures have been selected from data gathered by the American Society of Plastic Surgeonsand the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.

LIPOSUCTIONRemoving areas of fat around the bodythrough suction techniques, liposuction is aprocedure that can benefit those withstubborn fat that cannot be shiftedthrough other methods, such as diet or ex-ercise. Focusing on areas such as the hips,thighs, waist, stomach and buttocks, thetechnique can also be used on other parts,such as the legs, chest, back and face. Thefinal results of liposuction can usually beseen after about two weeks. One possibleissue for patients is skin elasticity - avoid-ing 'sag' or other undesirable effects oncethe fat has been removed. Younger pa-tients may benefit more from having skinthat can deal with this. Other patientscould require skin tightening to compen-sate for the new shape. Whilst liposuctionis an effective way of removing fat, it doesnot eliminate it for good - patients still runthe risk of developing further fat if they donot follow a healthier regime.

BREAST AUGMENTATIONProbably the most commonplace surgicalprocedure, breast augmentation allows

women to develop the size and shape oftheir breasts. The effect is created throughthe use of implants, that are insertedthrough incisions around the breast area,and that sit according to where the sur-geon may think the best results can beachieved. Using saline-filled implants was,until recently, the principle form of increas-ing breast size; the FDA approved the useof silicon gel implants in late 2006, whichare now becoming more popular. Such im-plants are arguably less prone to leak, or toshift. Despite common belief, breast im-plants could need to be replaced after anumber of years, and follow-up checkswith a surgeon will be required each year.

EYELID SURGERYEyelid surgery, or blepharoplasty, focuseson removing skin that causes folding orsagging in the upper or lower eyelids.Through small incisions, a surgeon can re-move any excess to produce the appear-ance of younger-looking eyes, andtightened skin around the ocular area.Surgery can also help to remove bagsunder the eyes.

NOSE RESHAPINGRhinoplasty, or nose reshaping, can radi-cally change the contours of the nose, fo-cusing on areas such as the bridge, tip, andnasal passages. At the center of the face,problems with the nose can adversely af-fect a patient's sense of wellbeing; sur-geons treat patients of all ages for anynumber of issues.

ABDOMINOPLASTYAbdominoplasty, more commonly knownas a 'tummy-tuck', removes fat and looseskin from the abdominal area. This canhappen for a number of reasons, includingthe effects of weight-gain - and subse-quent loss, aging, and the stretching ef-fects of pregnancy. Through an incision inthe lower abdomen, the surgeon can re-move the excess skin, and in some cases,use liposuction to get rid of any remain-ing fat deposits. After the procedure, itcould take up to eight weeks for the finalresults to be apparent. In most cases, anysagging or pronounced abdominal appear-ance is reduced greatly, leading to a moretoned look.

BOTOXBotox is a 'filler' treatment designed to re-duce the appearance of wrinkles, andsmooth the contours of the face and otherareas. With the nerve poison botuliniumtoxin as its basic component, Botox is ad-ministered by injection directly to the siteof the affected area - the forehead andaround the eyes, for example. The treat-ment can produce dramatic effects in ashort space of time, creating a fine look,with age-related lines minimized.

MICRODERMABRASIONMicrodermabrasion is an intensive facial

treatment used to give a smoother appearance to the skin, and to reduceproblems such as scarring from spots,fine lines, and the effects of aging. Witha 'wand', the treatment provider will runa slight vacuum across the face, usingtiny crystals to provide an intense exfoliation. This removes dead skin cells,and also helps to stimulate the produc-tion of new cells and collagen. Whilstmicrodermabrasion can be carried outquickly - in about an hour - and requireslittle preparation and no recovery time, itusually requires multiple treatments toachieve results.

HYALURONIC ACIDAnother filler treatment, hyaluronic acid isa key ingredient in a number of products.Naturally-occurring in the body, the acid isfound in dermis, one of the lowest levels ofthe skin, but decreases as we get older. It isthis loss that could be a key factor in theaging process, and its effects on the skin. Italso possibly has a direct impact on colla-gen, which helps to maintain the skin's elas-ticity. Patients receive hyaluronic acidtreatments through injections to particularareas, such as the cheeks, to create a fuller,more inflated effect, and avoiding the 'hol-lowness' that develops as we get older.

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Patients seeking cosmetic surgeryprocedures often express concernabout the ultimate appearance of

their surgical incisions, asking theirsurgeons what can be done to reducethe visibility of scars left by the surgery.This is particularly important to thecosmetic surgery patient as the goal oftheir surgery is to produce physical improvements with an attractive aesthetic outcome.

Once the surgeon closes the incisionswith sutures, the body repairs thewound both internally and externally.Collagen rebuilds within the incision,

binding the two sides of the incision together. In a normal mature scar thereshould be a balance in the collagenproduction which will produce asmooth, flat scar with normal color.However, heredity, ethnicity, healingenvironment and other factors cancause certain individuals to develop ab-normal scars– scars that are more pronounced and noticeable.

Examples of abnormal scarring include keloid and hypertrophic scars.Keloids are thick, raised, and can cause itch and pain. They often exceedthe original dimensions of the scar and are more predominant in certainethnicities. Hypertrophic scars, whichare characterized by a deep red

color and elevation, can also cause discomfort but do not usually exceedthe boundaries of the initial incision.

The good news for cosmetic surgerypatients is that there are ways to prevent abnormal scar formation andpromote normal healing for aestheti-cally appealing scars. One of the most effective ways to treat scarring is through the use of topical siliconegel. Silicone products have been in use since the ‘80s, with topical gelproducts being developed more recently. The 2002 International Clinical Recommendations on ScarManagement advises that silicone gel should be the first line therapy forthe prevention and treatment of scars –

in particular, the keloid and hyper-trophic variations.

Kelo-cote®, produced by AdvancedBio-Technologies, Inc., is one such silicone gel and is used regularly byplastic surgeons and dermatologists tohelp patients minimize scarring. Thisnewer topical gel technology representsan enhancement over the earlier morecumbersome silicone sheeting products,offering an invisible layer of siliconethat binds to the skin. Clinical studieshave proven Kelo-cote® to be effectivein treating and preventing scars.

Towards the end of the natural healing process, if there is the develop-ment of any abnormal scarring, siliconegel can be applied by the patient twicea day for several months as directed bya surgeon or physician.

“[At the point where] redness andthickening has to be dealt with, we

use Kelo-cote®,” says Dr. Gregory S.Latrenta, Clinical Associate Professor ofSurgery at the Joan and Sanford WeillMedical College of Cornell University.

“A topical silicone ointment, Kelo-cote is virtually undetectable by the pa-tient. There is no odor, it is not greasy,and is inconspicuous. It treats the in-flammatory response - the redness –of the scar.”

As a primary treatment for scarring,silicone gel can play a big part in re-ducing the need for other, more inten-sive treatments, such as laser therapy,steroids, or even further surgery. Cos-metic surgery patients can be reassuredthat there are effective, proactive waysto enhance the healing of their surgicalprocedures and should consult withtheir surgeon to determine the bestmethod of achieving an aestheticallypleasing result.

Cosmetic products are big busi-ness. The shelves of drugstoresand cosmetic outlets continue

to strain under the weight of seem-ingly endless choice, whether it be acream, a lotion, an oil, make-up, ashampoo, a capsule, a spray, even abar of soap.

Results from a report prepared byconsumer and retail informationprovider the NPD Group show that, in2007, Americans spent a total of $8.9billion on cosmetic products, a twopercent increase on the

previous year. Makeup accounted forthe largest proportion of that total,with sales of $3.4 billion. Fragrancessold $2.94 billion of units, with skin-care totaling $2.5 billion.

Reflecting the increasing acceptanceand general interest in what both sur-gical and non-surgical cosmetic pro-cedures can offer, around 60 percentof sales of premium skincare brandswere for products that offered anti-aging solutions.

Attitudes are changing fast, how-ever. As consumers demand productsthat can deliver specific results in a

What will my scars look like?

In 2007, Americans spent atotal of $8.9 billion on

cosmetic products; around 60 percent of sales of

premium skincare brands were for products that offered

anti-aging solutions.

BY DAVID JØRGENSEN

Billion-dollar beauty – the success of the cosmetic product industryBY DAVID JØRGENSEN

results of their over-the-counter prod-ucts by making them more effective,less irritating and affordable.”

An example of not shying awayfrom explaining the scientific back-ground of its products is Olay’s pro-motion of pentapeptides in some of itsproducts. Used in particular to reducethe effects of aging, being open abouthow ingredients work has been a suc-cessful way for Olay to market itsproduct ranges.

“The Olay peptide-B3 complex is anexclusive patented combination oftwo powerful anti-aging ingredients -- niacinamide (Vitamin B3) andpalmitoyl pentapeptide (pal-KTTKS),”explains Kohring. “The Olay peptide-B3 complex penetrates skin to signif-icantly firm and reduce theappearance of wrinkles. An intensehydrating system works to improvethe skin’s moisture barrier resulting instronger skin structure.

“Pal-KTTKS was discovered throughwound healing research conducted bythe National Institute of Health. Theydiscovered that fragments of collagenmolecules (called peptides) can stimu-late cells to produce collagen. In con-trolled clinical studies with hundreds ofwomen, pal-KTTKS was shown to sig-nificantly reduce the appearance of finelines and wrinkles. Pal-KTTKS works ina similar way to how retinoids work, but pal-KTTKS works without irritatingthe skin – an important difference since

retinoids can cause irritation in many women.”

Demonstrating the hugeamount of research that goesinto the development of a sin-gle product, the sales figuresshow that consumers are ar-guably less likely to be con-

cerned about the selling price asthey would be about the effects

that the product can achieve.A fairly recent development

has been the active incorpora-tion of sun-protection factorsinto skincare products. Officialhealth campaigns, combinedwith advertising from cosmeticcompanies, have ensured that

the effects of ultraviolet rays havebecome well known - for the aging ef-fects on skin as well as the dangers ofserious illness.

“At current rates, one in five Amer-icans will develop skin cancer in their

lifetime, with more than one million new cases diagnosed in

the United States this year alone,” explains Kohring. “The good news,however, is that skin cancer is one ofthe few cancers where the cause of the majority of cases – excessive sun

exposure – is known. So whetheryou're walking to the car or sit-

ting by a window, practicingcomprehensive sun protection cansubstantially lower skin cancer

rapidly dwindling space of time, pro-ducers are recognizing that their cus-tomer-base is increasingly aware ofthe different ingredients that are con-tained in products. They also want toknow exactly how a cream or lotioncan actually deliver those results, and expect to be able to understandwhy a brand is making the claims thatit does.

“The skin care industry knows thatconsumers are getting smarter anddermatologic procedures are becomingquicker, easier and more readily avail-able,” says Emma Kohring, scientificdirector at major skincare brand Olay.

“As a result, it’s important to keepconsumers satisfied with the

risk and can help keep prematureaging at bay.”

The science of product developmentalso plays a big part in the promotionof products that sell their ‘greener’credentials, using natural ingredientsas a unique selling point, or USP. TheUK chain The Body Shop was one ofthe companies at the forefront of thissector of the market. This has helpedto develop brands that sell morepremium (i.e. expensive) products with

the same promotion of their naturalingredient content.

Started by actress and model Jen-nifer Yen, pur~lisse is a range of skin-care products that combines the use ofnatural ingredients such as white teaand lotus flower, with lupine peptidesand soy proteins. With a focus oncaring for sensitive skin and counter-acting the effects of aging, thepur~lisse range also benefits from thefact that its product development isinfluenced by Chinese beauty prac-tices. The product range includes aserum to counteract melanin produc-tion, delicate cleanser, moisturizers,and an age-delaying formula.Ranges like pur~lisse cater to a clien-tele that are looking for exclusive,smaller ranges that can cater to theirspecific needs.

Pur~lisse markets its products as acombination of Chinese herbal ingre-dients combined with French derma-tological technology. Avoiding theuse of components such as parabens(used in some products to extendshelf-life), petrochemicals, propyleneglycol (another derivative of petro-leum), synthetic colors and fragrances,those who buy the products will prob-ably be more aware of such ingredi-ents, and will make purchasingdecisions based on that information.

It is also a good example of a brandthat has developed and grown both itsproduct range and brand-recognitionin a relatively short space of time.Selling at select outlets, customers ofPur~lisse and such brands are likely tobe quite aware of the type of productthey want, and be more willing toremain with that brand.

That USP is one of the key aspectsthat can influence the success of anybrand of cosmetic product. The scopeof individualization – selling productson the basis of creating specific solu-tions - includes the notion that therange has been developed by one per-son, or a small number of people, tomeet the requirements of a selectgroup of clients. With consumersasking what products can do forthem, rather than how products candeal with generic skin types, it islikely that the individualization ofcosmetic products will form part ofthe future development of thismulti-billion dollar industry.

Consumers are arguably lesslikely to be concerned about

the selling price as they wouldbe about the effects that the

product can achieve.