Walking World 101

Is set to be the biggest and best walking festival this year. Aimed at the seasoned walker through to those starting o!, this week long festival will consist of sharing information, enthusiasm and a love for walking in Ireland and abroad. The walking festival starts on Monday April 11th and ends Sunday April 17th. For full details of the festival please visit our website - www.53degreesnorth.ie - (01-2149352)

MON 11th APRIL 6PM – WALKING EXPO

The entire walking community will be at our Carrickmines store to provide walkers with a comprehensive overview of walking in Ireland. Exhibitors include local walking clubs, walking awareness groups, walking holiday providers and outdoor gear experts. They will all be at hand to answer any of your questions.

TUE 12th APRIL 7PM– THE CAMINO & THE ALPS

We will be hosting a talk in each store on walking abroad. The Blanchardstown talk will be about walking the Camino de Santiago, given by Roland Monsegu of Camino Ways. The Carrickmines talk, given by Alun Richardson of Mountaineering Ireland will bring to life the incredible Alps mountain range.

53 DEGREES NORTH WALKING FESTIVAL

WED 13th APRIL 7PM – PHOTOGRAPHY CLINICS

We will be hosting a clinic in each store. The Blanchardstown clinic on outdoor adventure photography will be presented by Outsider Magazine which is set to be amazing! The Carrickmines clinic entitled 'Irish Mountain Secrets' will be presented by Adrian Hendro!, the author of ‘From High Places’.

THU 14th APRIL 7PM - ADVENTURE FILM NIGHT

Want to see the best adventure "lm footage that the world has to o!er? Then this is the event for you! A 90 minute medley of the best adventure "lms taken from the famous She#eld Adventure Film Festival, this "lm sequence is sure to inspire your own adventures leaving you on an adrenaline high! Both Carrickmines & Blanchardstown.

SAT 16th APRIL 6.30PM - SIR CHRIS BONINGTON

One of the greatest adventurers of our time - Sir Chris is a truly iconic "gure of international climbing who has led historic expeditions worldwide. He will deliver a captivating lecture on his life experiences, entitled “Everest at 50”in our Blanchardstown store. Book early to avoid disappointment as limited tickets are available.

SUN 17th APRIL - DUBLIN MOUNTAINS WAY WALKS

With over 24 di!erent themed walks including Local, Historical, Navigational, Photography, Family and launched by Sir Chris Bonington - this is a fantastic opportunity to get out with one of our walking leaders guiding you to ensure you get the most out of your walking. 'Make sure to get your name down now as these walks will "ll up quickly!

Over our dead (public) bodies?THE RE-STRUCTURING of government and ‘semi-state’ agencies is a legitimate and necessary part of what we elected our new masters for. And it’s no great surprise that with energy policy and national assets assuming ever greater importance, the status of Bord na Móna and Coillte should be reconsidered.

It’s also no surprise that the proposal to merge the two institutions – and possibly sell off all or part of their operations – has provoked a storm of protest. Ireland’s forests and peatlands aren’t just the family silver, they’re the family home.

But is it hopelessly naïve of me to suggest that it’s premature to assume such a change would be inevitably for the worse? State sell-offs have a bad name, but the transfer of responsibility is not ipso facto the capitulation of public interest.

If a semi-state body can fulfil a public service brief effectively, why can’t a private sector business? The assumption behind much of the opposition to privatisation seems to be that the enabling legislation will be ill-considered, badly-written and thoroughly circumvented by the profit-hungry beneficiary. But only if we allow it to be so.

The reality is that we, as stakeholders, need profitable forestry as much as the government wants it. We need well-defined boundaries, responsibilities, obligations and performance criteria for the stewardship and husbandry of our environment. That’s what government is for – to set the rules.

As recreational users of the Irish countryside, we must ensure that the terms under which any possible transfer of land management takes place take full account of our interests. That the performance of Coillte and Bord na Móna is treated as a minimum standard, to be improved upon – which it certainly can be. It’s transparency and public debate – those old chestnuts – that we must insist upon.

Editor Walking World Ireland

Publisher: Conor O'HaganConsultant Editor: Martin JoyceDesign: Gwyn ParryTechnical Consultant: Andy CallanEnvironmental Consultant: Dick WarnerMaps: EastWest MappingContributors:Judy Armstrong, Andy Callan, Zoe Devlin, Helen Fairbairn, Michael Fewer, Denis Gill, Adrian Hendroff, Tom Hutton, Gareth McCormack, Dick WarnerPhotographers:Judy Armstrong, Eoin Clarke, Adrian Hendroff, Tom Hutton, Gareth McCormack, Richard MillsPublished by:Athletic Promotions Limited,‘Edelweiss’, Cushina, Portarlington, Co Laois.Tel: 05786 45343Email: [email protected] No. 0791-8801Printed by:W&G Baird Ltd

Walking World Ireland is always pleased to receive articles, but publication cannot be guaranteed. The magazine is not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos/slides submitted. Unsolicited articles will be returned only if accompanied by return postage. Guidelines regarding articles and photos are available for potential contributors on receipt of return postage. All photos/slides must bear the name of the sender on each photo/slide. Captions should accompany them. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced without the express permission of the editor or publishers, and even if such permission is given, the source must be acknowledged when used. This also applies to advertising originated by the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken to describe the routes and terrain accurately, the publishers and contributors accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained

BLANCHARDSTOWN: 01-8249156 CARRICKMINES: 01-2149352WWW.53DEGREESNORTH.IE

HELLO SPRING!When it comes to walking or hiking boots, getting them !tted correctly is the single most important thing we can do for you. Here at 53 Degrees North we take every measure imaginable to make sure that you leave our stores with the best possible !tting boots. That is why we are Ireland’s footwear !tting experts.

Our footwear sta" are fully trained Lowa and Superfeet !tting experts and they have all beenawarded the Anatom Academy Fitting Specialist Certi!cate.

26On The Cover14 The Alps are for everyoneMountain Guide Alun Richardson demystifies Europe’s crowning glory

38 Monte SibilliniWithin easy reach of Rome, Michael Fewer found challenge and seduction, alongside earthly delights

42 Hiking The Austrian WayEugene McGettrick samples a section of Austria’s alpineclassic; the 1,200km Arnowe

48 Spring FestivalsAn early start and a late finish to the spring Walking Festival season

52 Walk the MarathonFitness walking is the perfect exercise regime - and the Dublin Marathon is a per-fect target, says Pat Henry

54 Giving Step by StepCharity Treks - the most pleasurable way we know to do good for yourself and for others

64 Measuring UpAndy Callan begins a new series on Navigation Skills with map scales and dis-tance measurement

Routes18 Highs and Lows of CloghogeDenis Gill continues his exploration of Wicklow’s Luggala Valley

22 Purple MountainTom Hutton takes a long, leisurely amble up the Gap of Dunloe to return over the highridges of Purple Mountain and Shehy Mhor

26 Lough NakeerogeA potent mixture of scenery and history makes this an unforgettable route, says Helen Fairbairn.

30 Glenhead to SlemishThe underrated western section of the Antrim Hills Way provides fine views and surprising-ly enjoyable walking. By Helen Fairbairn

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Contents Issue 101, April/May 2011

Gear58 Get Loaded!Our resident beast of burden Andy Callan tests a bumper crop of bigger backpacks (don’t try saying that at home)

63 New ProductsA selection of new and (maybe) wonderful outdoor gear

Regulars8 NewsA sprinkling of events, announcements, people and places from around the walking world

12 Wonderful Diversity, Common CauseA report from Mountaineering Ireland’s Spring Gathering in the Glen of Aherlow

36 By The WayMichael Fewer takes a stroll back in time with the most historical of walking clubs.

47 BooksWe cast a critical eye over two recent walking publications

65 Subscription OfferSubscribe to Ireland’s No.1 Outdoor Magazine and get a superb Silva Field Compass FREE!

66 Crossword by ZodrickEight pairs of Brasher Kiso or Kenai GTX boots to be won!

FREESilva CompassWHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE!See Page 65

Project PollTHE EUROPEAN OUTDOOR CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION, a partnership of outdoor businesses across Europe working together to raise money to put into grassroots conservation projects, is asking for help from the outdoor enthusiast in deciding which projects to support for the coming year.

Until recently, the EOCA members have exclusively selected the projects for funding. This year, voters across Europe will have the opportunity to have their say.

Since its inception four years ago, EOCA has funded conservation projects to the tune of 640,000, and is on course to hit its first million in 2012.

Voting starts on 9th March and ends a few weeks later on 25th April. To get involved and have your say - you can vote once for each group of projects - log on to www.outdoorconservation.eu/projects.cfm and click on ‘Project Voting’.

Burren Eco BoostTHE BURREN Ecotourism Network was officially launched by Darina Allen on 3rd March in Gregans Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan. Over the last few years, a group of eighteen dedicated tourism businesses have been going through a rigorous training and assessment programme to be certified as one of only two ecotourism destinations in Ireland, with the aim of promoting sustainable development of the area’s communities, environment and heritage.

The Network offers visitors opportunities to engage with the protected landscape of the Burren in a manner which is sustainable both in terms of the environment as well as the community. Accommodation, food, farming, outdoor activities, culture and heritage are all part of the Network, which is designed to pull together all the elements in authentic tourism experiences. Tourism businesses involved in the network are committed to local produce, conservation and the community, as well as to continuing high standards in sustainability.

The Network received extensive support from Clare County Council, Clare Local Development Company, Shannon Development and Fáilte Ireland. For more information on the tourism experiences on offer, including guided walks, see www.burrenecotourism.com

Barrow Way ChallengeTHE BARROW WAY Navigation System has long been a favourite walking attraction, but not one normally

associated with challenge walking – being, of necessity, flat. But Michael Grainger is planning to change that with the

Barrow Way Challenge Walk on May 6-7 – perhaps the most accessible event of its kind in this country.

The challenge is to complete six stages of the full 113km (70 miles) route in three days, covering two stages per day. Challenge leader Grainger has many years

trekking and walking experience in Nepal, South America, Kilimanjaro, the UK and over 70 times on various

stages of the Camino Santiago in Spain. He is a founder member of his local hill walking club and has walked the Barrow Way and other long distance routes in Ireland on numerous occasions. For booking, registration and accommodation details contact Michael Grainger, T: 087-2206360 Email: [email protected]

CAN YOU WALK 50 miles in under 20 hours? Last month, Olympian and World Championship silver medallist walker Gillian O’Sullivan officially launched the inaugural Sneem JFK 50 Mile Challenge at Molls Gap on the Ring of Kerry, the half way point of the walking challenge, which will take place on the weekend of the 20th, 21st & 22nd May 2011.

The challenge, which is organised by Sneem Walking Club and will start and end in Sneem village, is to walk 50 miles (80km) in under 20 hours. Taking in a looped road route, the challenge includes some of the most beautiful scenery in Kerry including Kenmare Bay, Molls Gap, the Black Valley and views of the McGillycuddy Reeks.

It’s the first time the JFK Challenge will be undertaken in Kerry or Ireland but it all began back in 1963 when the former President John F Kennedy sat in The White House. JFK announced that an endurance test of walking 50 miles be performed by U.S. servicemen to prove they were in ready military condition. To everyone’s amazement, his brother Robert and a willing public took up the challenge and extreme walking quickly became a national obsession.For further information, log onto www.sneemjfkchallenge.com

NEWS

New Wicklow Map LaunchedEASTWEST MAPPING has just published a new map sheet: Wicklow East - 1:30,000 Detailed Map, 10 metre contouring, the final sheet (for the present anyway) in the Dublin & Wicklow map series. It covers from Bray to Wicklow town and inland from the coast to Sally Gap.The retail price is 9.95 and it is now available from EastWest’s website at www.eastwestmapping.ie with a p&p charge. There’s also a discount offer of the full set of the four Dublin & Wicklow maps at 35 inc postage & packing. The map will be available shortly from larger book stores and outdoor shops.

All the way with the JFK

8 WWI 101

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A Cold Afternoon on KnocknareaJoss Lynam 1924 - 2011ON THE 12th FEBRUARY a large well-togged out group that included family, friends and admirers of the late Joss Lynam braved chilly winds to be on the summit of Knocknarea for the scattering of his ashes. Joss first climbed this iconic Sligo hill as a young child in the early 1930s, the first of the many summits here and abroad that he was to conquer. Dawson Stelfox, Ray O’Leary and Frank Nugent said a few words in praise of Joss and the achievements of his long and full life. Unfortunately Joss’s wife, Nora was unable to be there, but Joss’s daughters, Ruth and Clodagh, and his grandchildren offered his ashes to the south wind. May he rest in peace.Michael Fewer

MI makes stand on forestsOUTLINE PROPOSALS for the merger of Bord na Móna and Coillte to create a new company BioEnergy Ireland have drawn sharp responses from a wide range of voices.

Mountaineering Ireland, the representative body for walkers and climbers in Ireland with over 10,500 members, has issued a statement serving notice of its intention to oppose any restrictions on access to the merger and the widely predicted privatisation of BioEnergy Ireland.

“The new Programme For Government 2011 – 2016 outlines the merger of Bord na Móna and Coillte to create a new company BioEnergy Ireland. While Mountaineering Ireland does not oppose nor support this merger it fails to see the rationale behind the merger and calls for more details on BioEnergy Ireland, its core purpose and vision. If the merger is to proceed, Mountaineering Ireland calls for a government commitment that BioEnergy Ireland will be retained in public ownership and that Coillte’s current open access policy on its estate will be maintained over the long term.

“Mountaineering Ireland will oppose in a most determined manner, through its membership base and international affiliates, any sale of the Coillte estate that impacts negatively on access and the recreational benefits Irish people have enjoyed over many years.”

IRISH CLIMBERS Ian Taylor and Cian O’Brolchain, who next year will attempt to summit Everest with the The Ireland to Everest 2012 team, have set themselves the challenge of climbing the highest peak of every county (32) in Ireland. The 32 Steps for Cystic Fibrosis was launched on 9th January 2011 in Co. Westmeath with the ascent of Mullaghmeen.

The team’s goal is to establish a Lung Transplant Support Fund for Ireland in partnership with Cystic Fibrosis Association of Ireland and the Mater Hospital. “We aim to raise 250,000 by climbing the highest point in each of the 32 counties in Ireland and 6 other mountains on 5 continents,” said O’Brolchain.

“The launch was a huge success and well supported. We are hoping that this support will continue for the journey through Ireland and the world. We are climbing each of the highest points in the 32 counties starting with the lowest and ending with Carrauntoohil (Co. Kerry) in July 2011. We appeal to all members of the public to join us on the 32 Steps around Ireland and support this effort. Donations can be made on the day and sponsorship cards can be collected for further fundraising. Dates, start points and directions for the 32 Steps can be found on our website

www.irelandtoeverest.com”

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10 WWI 101

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Mountaineering Ireland’s Spring Gathering and Annual General Meeting (AGM) took

place on the 04-06 March in the Aherlow House Hotel in the Glen of Aherlow, Co. Tipperary.

The Ballyhoura Bears, Galtee Walking Club and the Peaks Mountaineering Club were the host clubs and they extended a warm welcome to clubs and individual members who travelled from all corners of Ireland. From Cork Mountaineering Club to Enniscrone Walking Club, Maynooth Hillwalking Club to the Foxford Ramblers the diversity of clubs was wonderful to see and helped to generate lots of debate and support for each other.

The Gathering commenced on Friday evening with a presentation by Alun Richardson, MI’s Training Officer “The Alps are for Everyone”. More than 70 members attended the presentation, which provoked many questions, observations and memories of members own visits to the Alps. Alun helped to demystify the Alps and he described that with reasonable fitness, a modicum of scrambling experience, some basic skills and an understanding of the hazards the higher alpine peaks and glacial passes are within everyone’s grasp.

The host clubs led a number of walks of various difficulties on Saturday morning. Over 80 members took to the Galtees and Slievenamuck and despite poor visibility on the day the local leaders provided a unique insight into the Galtees.

Three workshops, Club Walks Leader, Environmental Officer & First Aid, were held concurrently on Saturday with over 40 participants taking part.

The Club Walks Leader workshop was delivered by Alun Richardson. It gave club leaders the opportunity to discuss issues and problems around club leadership. Crisis management was discussed and a

host of scenarios were set and dealt with by participants during a hill walk.

The Environmental Officers workshop was delivered by Helen Lawless, MI’s Hillwalking, Access & Conservation Officer. 19 participants were treated to some informative presentations on rural recreation and the upland environment. Participants also engaged in lively discussion about the many challenges facing our uplands today.

The First Aid workshop was delivered by Ronan Lenihan, Mountain Training Ireland and MI board member. The

workshop provided an opportunity for members to refresh their skills and leave with a Wilderness First Aid qualification.

During the AGM on Saturday evening, MI’s President, Alan Tees in his address to the membership reflected on the passing of Joss Lynam. Many tributes have been paid, but none more moving than Frank Nugent’s memorable rendition, on Knocknarea, of Ewan McColl’s song “The Joy of Living”, the last verse of which, could have been written especially for Joss,

Take me to some high place of heather, rock, and leyScatter my dust and ashes, feed me to the windSo that I will be part of all you see, the air that you are breathingI’ll be part of the curlew’s cry, and the soaring hawkThe blue milkwort, and the sundew hung with diamondsI’ll be riding the gentle wind that blows

through your hairReminding you of how we shared inThe Joy of living

There are many serious issues to be resolved in this country, at this time, and many people will face hardship over the next few years, but we will still have our mountains, the source of our “Joy of Living” and our job, the legacy of Joss, and the priority of Mountaineering Ireland, must be to protect, and keep it available to all.”

The MI Members’ Forum was chaired by MI’s Chairperson, Ruairí Ó Conchúir.

Many important issues were discussed and debated by the membership.

On Sunday morning a number of club workshops were ran focused on club renewal and recruiting leaders within clubs. These workshops provoked a lot of debate and the sharing of lessons learned by different clubs down through the years.

Richard Doubleday of Perkins Slade briefed members on the MI

insurance schemes. Richard explained the level of cover provided by the robust policy and the reasons for such cover. He was able to answer many questions from the floor, pointing to ‘reasonableness’ and ‘common sense’ as the most important considerations in our activities.

The Spring Gathering was then brought to a close with a reflection of the great spirit of the gathering and an acknowledgement of the great volunteer effort which made the weekend so successful. Karl Boyle, MI’s Chief Officer thanked all members for attending and he highlighted the “fantastic support provided by the Ballyhoura Bears, Galtee Walking Club and Peaks Mountaineering Club, without which the event could not have been a success”. MI would also like to thank the management and staff of the Aherlow House Hotel for their excellent support for the event, especially the wonderful “Galtee Feast” on Saturday night.

Wonderful Diversity, Common Cause

MI’s Spring Gathering in the Glen of Aherlow provided inspiration and information aplenty, reports Karl Boyle

Alun Richardson MI Spring Gathering

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The Alps

The Alps are for

everyoneMountain Guide Alun Richardson demystifies Europe’s crowning glory

“The joy of mountain walking is that you are no longer confined like a climber to the intricacies of a climb you are free to explore however and whatever you want”

Kev Reynolds

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The Alps are the world’s best-known mountain range, with some of the most famous and iconic mountains in the world such as The Matterhorn, The Eiger and the highest mountain in Western Europe, Mont Blanc, at

4,810 m (15,782 ft). A vast range of mountains stretching from Slovenia in the east through Austria, Italy, Switzerland, and Germany to France in the west, the English name Alps probably comes from the Latin albus meaning ‘white’. The French Alpage or Alpe in the singular means ‘alpine pasture’ and only in the plural does it refer to the mountain range as a whole. My aim here is to de-mystify the Alps and expand your horizons. I want to show you that with reasonable fitness, a modicum of scrambling experience, some basic skills and an understanding of the hazards, the higher alpine peaks and glacial passes are within your grasp. The wonderful thing is that there are challenges to suit each individual's aspirations, from hut walks to the crossing of high passes; glaciers to trav-

el over; peaks to climb and even long distance trails to test your stamina.

EquipmentA question I am often asked is “But you need specialist equipment don’t you”? Well the answer is, it depends on what you want to do - as long as you are on trails and don’t step onto glaciers or snow slopes, the same kit that you use for walking in Ireland will suffice (there is a kit list on www.mountaineering.ie). The only proviso I would make is that lightweight kit is the best for alpine walking and mountaineering. However, as soon as you step onto snow or cross a glacier then some technical kit is needed, such as ropes, harness, crampons and ice axe, but the technical skills required are not those of a climber.

Boots are an important consideration for any walker, but the alpine terrain means that you must more carefully consid-er your choice of boots. For most walks, glacier or otherwise, your normal walking boots will often do, but as soon as the

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walk enters the higher snowy mountains you will require a sturdier and warmer boot.

Along with boots, ice axe and crampons are probably the specialist equipment that I am most questioned about. Lightweight general-purpose 10/12-point crampons, with toe straps and a plastic cup system or heel clip system, that are easy to put on and fold down small, are best.

The length of an ice axe for general-moun-tain walking has generated substantial debate, but the answer is simple - the steeper the slope, the more experienced you are, and the more proficient you are on crampons, the shorter the axe can be; 60 to 70 cm is a good place to start. Long axes are unwieldy when the slope becomes steep, but are suitable for walking on easier angled slopes.

Staying SafeThe hazards of alpine walking and mountaineering are the same as the usual ones encountered by summer and winter walkers in Ireland, but there are some additional ones. The secret to staying safe is to understand the mountain environment and to be pre-pared for anything it can throw at you.

Sunlight is intense in the Alps and skin cancer is the most common form of the dis-ease. However, frequent exposure to UV also

causes broken blood vessels and roughening, wrinkling, drying and thinning of skin, so wear good quality sunglasses and sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 15 (more is better). Lips are particularly vulnerable to the harm-ful effects of the sun because they lack mela-tonin so use lip block. Wear protective cloth-ing (sunscreen alone does not offer enough protection). Combined with a handkerchief around your neck, a good sun hat will protect you from the worst of the sun, but ensure it will fit under your helmet.

We are used to the weather being poor in Ireland, and the weather in the European Alps is dominated by similar weather systems, with depressions and fronts coming from the Atlantic. The weather patterns affecting the Alps are also affected by the Azores high that pushes the Atlantic depressions northwards, resulting in longer stable periods of good weather. The difference with the Alps is that they can generate their own weather, which can be both extreme and unpredictable with violent thunderstorms, gusting winds, hail-storms and torrential rain.

The intense heat generates large thunder-storms and associated lightning. Storms usu-ally appear late afternoon and can form sud-denly, even when the weather is good. Warnings are; thunder, (even without any vis-ible lightning); a sudden cloudburst of enor-

mous raindrops or huge hailstones; signs of highly charged air such as hair standing on end; crackling noises or buzzing in the air; equipment humming; small sparks given off around metal objects and even a bluish glow around objects, known as Saint Elmo’s fire. Direct strikes are rare; you are more likely to be hit by a side flash or ground current as it arcs to find an easy way to ground.

If you are caught in a thunderstorm, get off the highest location quickly, even a few metres lower may offer some protection. Stay away from taller trees and out of depressions, gullies, or water. Avoid caves and overhangs unless they are dry and provide 6m of head-room and 2m of space on every side. If you cannot get down, remove all metal objects, occupy as little area as possible and sit, crouch or stand on your pack with your hands and feet off the ground.

A less obvious hazard is the height above sea level of the Alps. As you go higher, the percentage of oxygen remains the same, but the pressure drops and the number of ‘oxygen molecules per breath’ is therefore reduced. On the top of Mont Blanc (4810 m) the pressure of oxygen is half that at sea level. The lower air pressure makes it more difficult for your lungs to absorb oxygen, but the body can adapt – it is called acclimatisation.

Acclimatisation takes time and if you

The Alps

16 WWI 101 WWI 101 17

ascend too quickly you risk acute mountain sickness (AMS) and in some cases the more serious high altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral oedema (HACE). AMS usually doesn’t occur until you are over 3000 m and virtually all climb-ers will experience some of the symptoms of AMS (see www.mountaineering.ie). To accli-matise, you must gently stress your body - too little and you will not adapt, too fast and you will become ill. The actual altitude is not important, it is how fast you ascend to that altitude that matters. It is safer (and more enjoyable) to climb gradually and slowly - you can descend as fast as you like!

GlaciersA glacier is a river of ice and an obvious alpine hazard, but one that is easily managed. Glaciers come in two forms: wet and dry. A ‘wet’ glacier is snow covered, resulting in the crevasses being hidden and a ‘dry’ glacier is bare ice. Travel on dry glaciers is usually straightforward, but crampons are sometimes required when the ice is steep. The best advice for travel on wet glaciers is to rope up, know how to avoid falling into a crevasse and to understand rescue techniques in case the worst happens. Crossing wet glaciers can be intimidating, but it need not be if you follow some simple precautions:

Crevasses are cold, so cover your arms and legs and wear gloves

Crampons are essential Everyone must carry rescue kit Keep your ice axe in your hand If you are walking with ski poles use one

and do not use the leash Use a rope with a minimum of slack rope

between members of the party Do not carry hand coils Keep apart. Don’t gather together when

stopping for a break; your combined weight may prove too much for a crevasse bridge

The most experienced member leads to allow for the best route finding

Where possible, the line of travel is perpendicular to the crevasses

AccidentsDespite all the precautions accidents can hap-pen. Highly professional full-time rescue teams work alongside volunteers to serve all alpine areas. The usual international signals of six whistle blasts or six light flashes should not be relied on to call for rescue as snow muffles sound and there are many flashing lights at night so the rescue ones are largely ignored. Mountain huts have radios; these and personal mobile phones are the most common methods of alerting the rescue serv-ices.

InsuranceInsurance is a necessary evil because mountain police, gendarmes and fire officers provide the French rescue service for free, but Swiss and Italian mountain rescue is private and reimbursed by insurance fees. Mountaineering Ireland recommend the Alpine Insurance from the BMC.

Alpine MeetTo help all walkers and climbers, Mountaineering Ireland runs its hugely popular Alpine Meet every year. The venue for 2011 is Argentierre, France. The ‘Meet’ is a wonderful opportunity for novices and experienced walkers and climbers to share information, learn techniques, develop their skills, discover new friends, join walking groups and generally share in the exploration of an alpine area. Qualified Mountain Guides and Walking Leaders are at the Meet not only to run formal training courses, but also to share information on conditions and recommended walks and routes in the area. The Meet has a huge, informal social aspect and musicians, dancers and singers are encouraged to bring voices, legs and musical

instruments to the legendary parties.

Alun Richardson is Training Officer for Mountaineering Ireland and an IFMGA Mountain Guide

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Cloghoge Valley

Denis Gill continues his exploration of Wicklow’s Luggala Valley. Photos by Eoin Clarke

The Highs and Lows of the

Cloghoge Valley

On the summit of Knocknacloghoge Mountain, looking down into Lough Dan

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Secreted in the heart of a heather wilderness and surrounded on all sides by stunning mountain scenery are two of the most picturesque lakes in Wicklow:

Lough Dan and Lough Tay awaiting your discovery and exploration.

The glacial valley of Luggala was excavated over a millennia by trundling ice, leaving behind water borne boulders and debris to restrict the escape of its cold waters, forming these two mountain tarns, linked by the Cloghoge River valley in an remarkable area of outstanding natural beauty that rivals the better known Glendalough as the ‘glen of the two lakes’, there is even a local tradition that Saint Kevin had a hermitage here before he settled in Glendalough!

Due to the not inconsiderable area of mountains, moorland, forest, lakes and valley to explore, it is necessary nay essential to have at least three separate and distinct walks to appreciate and discover a picturesque terrain that is entirely the domain of the walker.

Our third walk in this trilogy is an exploration of the southern end of the valley ranging from the heights of Knocknacloghoge Mountain down to Lough Dan, the largest natural lake in Wicklow. Getting to the StartFrom the east of the mountains follow the M50/M11 to Kilmacanogue to turn at the flyover onto the R755. Drive up the Long Hill to Calary Bog, after nearly 11km; turn right at a filter-lane onto the R759 signposted to Sally Gap. Continue uphill for nearly 3km to park just after the forest on the left ends, opposite the Pier Gates. GR: 172.064

From the west of the mountains take the N81 to Hollywood and turn onto the R756 to enjoy the drive across the Wicklow Gap via Glendalough to Laragh. From Laragh follow the R755 Dublin road via Annamoe into Roundwood, just beyond the village fork left for 2km to an offset crossroads, turn left and follow as above.

The RouteAfter passing through a kissing gate to the left of the Pier Gates, begin a long downhill on a private tarmac road. As you descend, wonderful views of Cloghoge Valley begin to appear, ranging from the dramatic cliffs below Fancy Mountain down the green fields on the valley floor to Scarr Mountain below which is Lough Dan, our eventual goal.

Old maps record a police barracks to the left of the road; prior to the famine there was a large population residing in the valley as is evident from the fields of ‘lazy beds’ on the lower slopes directly opposite on Fancy

Mountain and the many ruined buildings, some isolated but many grouped in small village settlements.

After the road doglegs to the left, continue downhill to pass an electric gate via a set of steps that would not be out of place in a castle turret! After passing the estate farm, follow a sign to Lough Dan, cross a wooden bridge over the Cloghoge River and turn right over a stile, beyond a gate, follow an old green road by a copse of trees to reach the ruins of Cloghoge Village: In the aftermath of the great rebellion of 1798, the Wicklow United Irishmen under the command of General Joseph Holt used the valley as a safe haven but on 29th May in that tragic year, the village was attacked and burnt by a troop of yeomanry as a reprisal for an attack on Drummin, the home of Thomas Hugo, a local landlord .

Beyond the ruins, follow a narrow trail to Cloghoge Brook, a tributary stream flowing out of a small glen which separates Fancy

from Knocknacloghoge Mountain. Cross the brook with the aid of two small islands. Trek upstream onto the top of a rocky outcrop to look down into a ravine where the stream cascades over small waterfalls below a grove of trees, here turn your back to the stream to begin a short climb amid a scattering of boulders onto the lower northern slopes of Knocknacloghoge Mountain. At first the ground is sodden but improves as we tend to the left of high heather to soon reach a pleasant green road for views to the east of the valley, ranging from Djouce Mountain down across White Hill to the outcrops below Ballinrush to the heavily forested Ballinafunshoge Mountain.

If by chance after heavy rains, Cloghoge Brook above is in full spate: Backtrack to the stile, turn right to cross a wooden bridge, immediately cross a gate and climb uphill to a second gate to reach the green road above.

Trek westward on the green road, gently gaining height as marvellous views opens up

Lein

ster

On the tarmac road from Pier Gates into Cloghoge Valley with Fancy Mountain ahead

Denis stages a diversion before moving in on a companion's packed lunch

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across a moorland wilderness to the crags below Barnacullian Ridge leading to Mullaghcleevaun, the second highest of the Wicklow summits with a ribbon of peaks rising and falling to the northeast, all the way to the Sally gap.

As the green road begins to lose height, turn hard left across scrubby heather for the final assault on the summit, as height is gained, tend to the left towards two hummocks to reach the lower summit at 505metres. Continue west on a narrow trail past a few small ponds for a final push to locate a cairn atop a rocky outcrop at 536metres locally known as

The Dalty, from which there is a 360degree panorama of mountain wilderness, to the south, views of Lough Dan are restricted by a lower ridge on the mountain, disguising its true size as the largest natural lake in Wicklow.

Below the summit outcrop is a good lunch stop, although when |I reconnoitred this walk on a beautiful day in October, I had lunch by the cairn where my only company was a wasp, a few thankfully non-biting midges and a curious robin!

With the steep side of the summit cairn outcrop on our left, begin to descend to the south following a narrow grassy trail

downhill between two rocky outcrops.Rapidly losing all our lovely height, the

delta of the Inchavore River with its remote meadows nestling below Kanturk and Brown Mountains come into view.

Our immediate goal is to the right of a small patch of green pasture among the heather, to reach the upper corner of a fence system. Continue downhill to the lower fence corner which is above a series of crags and rocky outcrops known as The Scalls, it is the most direct route but is best avoided.

Instead turn right to follow the fence line by a fairly sparse forest all the way to the

Cloghoge Valley

“Prior to the famine there was a large population residing in the valley as is evident from the fields of ‘lazy beds’ on the lower slopes.”

Descending Knocknacloghoge Mountain and heading down towards Inchavore River below Kanturk or Brown Mountain

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valley floor. When further progress is blocked by a patch of gorse and a small stream, turn hard left to locate and follow a pleasant trail, downstream by the bank of the Inchavore River.

Alas and alack! This agreeable trail by the river is interspersed with some very waterlogged patches, fortunately some kind person has marked the trail with occasional wooden poles with white flags.

Close to a ruined cottage, where the first of these markers is reached, looking south across the river to the steep flank of Kanturk mountain is the site of a terrible tragedy…The Bolenasaggart Avalanche!

A newspaper account from March 1867 reads… on Saturday forenoon at a place called Inchavon (Inchavore) at the head of Lough Dan, nearly four miles from the village of Roundwood, an avalanche of snow broke from the mountains, throwing down cabins in which were cattle and sheep but worst of all, a poor woman named Smith with two fine male children were buried beneath it. Their bodies were discovered on Monday at 4 o’clock pm. The avalanche was seen descending by some boys who shouted to the woman, at that time she had a child in her arms, she at once rushed to the house to save the other child, but unfortunately she with both children in her arms were caught with the overwhelming mass of snow and buried at least eight feet deep within six yards of her own front door.

After the trail meanders through a boggy stretch below boulders at the base of The Scalls, the full beauty of Lough Dan is revealed beyond a beach of fine white sand, as the waters of the lake sweep south below the deciduous woodland on the precipice below Ballinafunshoge.

The trail improves greatly as it passes through a patch of gorse bushes above the lake shore to soon see the ornate chimney pots of Loughinch Cottage. Once beyond this lonely two-story cottage, all

worries of waterlogged trails disappear as we follow a pleasant green road for nearly 2km between dry stone walls above parkland filled with grazing deer. After entering a small wood, to cross a stile and two wooden bridges above the Cloghoge Brook and River, to enjoy a brief respite before being rewarded with wonderful views on an uphill trek on tarmac to escape the valley and reach the cars at the Pier Gates.

Crossing Cloghoge Brook

FACT FILE Cloghoge ValleyDistance: 12kmAscent: 520mTime: 5 hoursMaps: OSi Sheet 56EastWest Mapping Wicklow Mountains West

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Munster

Purple Mountain Tom Hutton takes a long, leisurely amble up the Gap of Dunloe to return over the high ridges of Purple Mountain and Shehy Mhór.

Photos by Tom Hutton

Descending Shehy Mhor with great views over Killarney’s Lakes

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The Gap of Dunloe marks the eastern limits of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, dramatically dividing Ireland’s highest peaks from the lofty

whaleback ridges and rounded summits of Purple Mountain, Tomies Mountain and Shehy Mhor. This trio forms an impressive three-pointed star that may lack the altitude of its more famous neighbours, but still provides some excellent walking. The main trade route onto the ridge is from the Head of the Gap of Dunloe, and by starting at Kate Kearney’s Cottage and using the road that runs up the Gap for a warm up, height is gained easily in the early stages. But once the road is spurned, the challenges start and it’s still a long pull up onto the 830m summit of Purple Mountain. Once up though, most of the work is done and the ridges that connect the summits are mild-mannered and don’t dip too deeply in their middles. The route as described leads from Purple Mountain directly onto Shehy, but it would seem a shame to get this close and not bag Tomies Mountain too, so a short out and back from the 757m top of Tomies South, will grab the lower but more spectacular peak. Then it’s on over Shehy Mountain and its outlying top of Shehy Mhor before the arduous descent into Tomies Wood for the easy walk out. The steep slopes and upper woodlands are a great place to spot deer.

Getting to the StartThe walk begins from the main car park at

Kate Kearney’s Cottage, at the bottom of the Gap of Dunloe. This is easiest reached by taking the N72 out of Killarney towards Killorglin and then bearing left at Fossa –clearly signed to the Gap of Dunloe. Follow the road over Laune Bridge and around sharp right and left bends before arriving at a crossroads. Take a left turn here – again, signed to the Gap of Dunloe – and follow the road up to the car park. GR V 870,889

The RouteIf you’re leaving your car at Kate Kearney’s Cottage then it’s well worth arriving early –this is a popular spot in the summer. An early start will also mean less jaunting cars, meaning you’ll get the true atmosphere of the Gap. Whatever time you do it, turn right onto the road and head up past a plethora of signs and out into open country. In the early stages, the track’s sheltered by trees and there’s not really that much to look at but, as you

gain height, the trees give way to steep and often shiny rocky outcrops that line the path. The menacing cliffs on both sides begin to close in with every step that you take and, in places, the river widens to form small but beautiful lakes. Enjoy the scenery and continue upwards until you reach the highest point, known as the Head of Gap. Descend for a few metres to a sharp right-hand bend and look for a faint path off to the left.

Take this and follow the stream up, crossing plenty of wet patches as you go. Continue up, always along the side of the stream, until you finally reach the tranquil Glas Lough, a typical mountain pool restrained by glacial morraine, left from the last ice age. This is a good spot to take a breather as the hardest climb is yet to come.

Mu

nster

“This trio forms an impressive three-pointed star that may lack the altitude of its more famous neighbours, but still provides some excellent walking.”

On the summit ridge of Purple Mountain with the Reeks behind

Looking over the gap from the west face of Purple Mountain

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Munster

The path now swings right and climbs steeply up onto the broad ridge above. Once you reach the crest, bear left and continue, now easier, to the three summits of Purple Mountain.

Once you reach the highest, 832m (2,730ft), you’ll know you’ve done most of the day’s work so stop and enjoy the views, which are wonderful - especially west over the jagged ridge of Cnoc na Pieste and on to Carauntoohil. Now continue north east, along the spine of the ridge, to the 757m southern top of Tomies, where you leave the main ridge and bear right to drop south west into a shallow col beneath the 762m summit of Shehy Mhor, which isn’t named on the map. The cairn is on the far eastern tip and offers fabulous views over the Killarney Lakes.

Drop down a sharp, steep spur and continue through the heather into another saddle; this one sitting on top of some steep and impressive crags. Now climb briefly up onto another small top where you’ll see the final crooked finger of the ridge stretched out before you. Drop down again, onto a fairly large plateau beneath the summit of Shehy Mountain. Then climb easily to the final top of the day, where you can really soak up those magnificent views over Lough Leane to Killarney itself. There can be few more scenic spots to stop for a bite to eat or a quick drink.

The descent from Shehy is steep, whichever way you tackle it, but it’s probably best keeping just east of due north and then trending rightwards through the heather as you get nearer the bottom. Eventually you’ll reach easier ground, where you should traverse northwards to locate a vague path that follows a fence. Stay with this as it contours above a shallow valley and then drop to join a forest track in Tomies Wood. Turn left onto this, and follow it back into the woods and over the fast running stream on some huge stepping-stones. Continue out of the forest and join the main

drive that leads up a yard before swinging left and then right to join the road. Keep ahead onto the main road at Cullane Bridge, and then follow this around a sharp left-hand bend to the crossroads at the bottom of the road to the Gap. Turn left here – clearly signposted – and make your way easily back up to the car park.

FACT FILEPURPLE MOUNTAINDistance: 24km/15milesAscent: 950m (3,117ft)Time: 8-9 hoursMaps: 1:50000 OSi Sheet 78OS; 1:25,000 Killarney National Park

Cairn on the North West flanks of Shehy Mountain

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Connacht

A potent mixture of scenery and history makes this an unforgettable route, says Helen Fairbairn.

Photos by Gareth McCormack

Lough Nakeeroge

The stunning view across Lough Nakeeroge to Croaghaun

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Pick a fine day for this route, and you’ll enjoy such a variety of mountain and coastal scenery that it’s hard to avoid feeling this is Irish hillwalking at its best. Lough Nakeeroge itself would be a strong contender in the contest for most scenic lough in

the country. Nestled between the ocean and an imposing band of cliffs, this isolated lake is overlooked by the steep corries and headlands of Croaghaun. Even if you normally prefer a shorter walk, it’s worth following the route as far as point 269m simply to enjoy the drama of the view.

Besides the scenery, the other main feature of the route is the deserted village of Slievemore. The walk starts and finishes beside this ruined settlement, and it’s easy to spend an extra hour exploring the ruins.

Altogether there are three distinct settlements and almost 100 ruined houses aligned along the southern base of Slievemore mountain. The houses are constructed of unmortared stone, with doors that face east, away from the prevailing wind. Most buildings consist of a single room, though some include a second room that would have been used as an outhouse or sta-ble. The roofs were constructed from timber and thatch, though the elements have long since disposed of such organic materials.

Archaeological research suggests that the village has passed through several phases of human habitation. Interspersed amongst the ruins are a group of megalithic tombs some five thousand years old, as well as a variety of other sites dating from the Bronze Age and early medieval times. The village that can be seen today was occupied year-round by the early 1800s. The fol-lowing century brought the gradual abandonment of the area, with estate mismanagement, eviction, famine and emigration all taking their toll on inhabitants. Right up until the 1940s the buildings were still being used as a summer booley village howev-er, making this the last place in Ireland where the seasonal migra-tion of people and livestock was practised.

Getting to the StartThe route starts and finishes at the car park beside Slievemore’s deserted village, on Achill Island (GR: F 638, 072). Achill is generally accessed via the N59 from Westport. Once you’ve crossed the bridge over Achill Sound and arrived on the island, follow the R319 to Keel (An Caol). In Keel, take the first right just past the Minaun View pub. Follow this road for almost 2km, then veer left onto a lane signed for the deserted village. Around 400m later, turn left and park in front of a cemetery. There is plenty of room in the parking area for at least 15 cars.

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The WalkBegin by walking west from the cemetery, fol-lowing an obvious stone track. The ruined stone buildings of the deserted village stretch for over a kilometre, and lie just up the slope to your right. The houses are arranged on either side of an old boreen that runs parallel to the new track. It’s your choice whether you want to follow the new track or the old boreen through the ruins; if you haven’t explored the village before, the latter provides an evocative start to the walk.

The track and boreen merge around a kilo-metre west of the cemetery. Continue ahead along the track, heading towards the peak of Croaghaun. The signal tower is now visible at the top of point 194m, and reaching this landmark is the next goal of the route.

Just before the track swings south, an old quartz quarry can be seen on the right hand side. This quarry was mined commercially between 1910 and 1916 and the excavated rock, which included rare deposits of tourma-line, was transported via a narrow gauge rail-way to Purteen harbour on Achill’s south coast.

Shortly before the quarry, head right onto open ground. Follow a faint track past the northern side of the quarry to a small, block-built shelter. Now head west, climbing a rough grass slope to reach the signal tower at the summit. As you near the top the views open out, revealing a magnificent 360º pan-

orama that encompasses the coastlines on both sides of the island as well as all of its most distinctive peaks. The signal tower itself is one of a series of towers built by the British government to guard the coast during the Napoleonic wars of the early nineteenth cen-tury. Today it is partially ruined, though the base remains impressively solid.

From the tower, descend west to a shallow col, with the great corries of Croaghaun lying directly ahead. Now head northwest, climb-ing a grassy slope to reach point 269m. There

is no cairn to mark the summit, just a band of quartzite outcrops that fall steeply away to the sea. This lofty perch provides a dramatic vantage point across Lough Nakeeroge to the west, and the remainder of the route can now be seen encircling the lough. To the north, there’s an equally impressive view across Blacksod Bay to Belmullet and the islands scattered of its western shore.

From this angle the descent to the lough looks nearly impossible. Though the terrain is certainly steep, access is possible via a natural

“It’s hard to avoid feeling this is Irish hillwalking at its best.”

Walking through the deserted village at Slievemore

The ruined cottages at the deserted village

Connacht

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FACT FILE Lough NakeerogeDistance: 12km/7milesAscent: 613m/2010ftTime: 4-5 hoursMaps: OSi 1:50,000 sheet 30

ramp at the lough’s southeastern tip. Negotiating this ramp is the next challenge of the route. Begin by descending southwest to the col between points 269m and 234m. Now head west, dropping across rough grass and heather just north of a band of cliffs. The descent becomes steeper as you near the lough. Take care as you pick your way down the slope, especially if the grass is wet.

It’s something of a relief to reach the water’s edge. A faint path now leads around the northern side of the lough, and you can chose either to keep close to the lake, or to trace the top of boulder-strewn Annagh Strand. Either option will bring you to the narrow neck of land that separates lake and sea at the north-eastern tip of the lough. Follow the path up the slope ahead, climbing to Tinny Lough at the base Croaghaun’s northeastern ridge. From here there is a great view over the cliffs and coastline at the northern tip of Achill Island, and you can feel satisfied in the knowledge that this is a view few people ever see.

Now veer south and climb directly up the ridge ahead. The ascent is steep, sustained and highly rewarding, taking you between precipitous cliffs on either side. Where the ridge broadens, arc eastwards around the top

of the corrie holding Lough Nakeeroge, mak-ing sure to keep a safe distance back from the edge. Now you are heading east the view is different again, with Slievemore and the Menawn Cliffs backed by the numerous peaks of west Mayo.

Follow the cliffline east, descending to a col and then climbing again to point 234m. Now skirt around the southern side of point 269m, where you rejoin your outward route.

Simply retrace your initial steps back to the quarry, then follow the track back to the start.

Ruined signal tower at point 194m

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The Antrim Hills Way is renowned for crossing some the most scenic upland areas in the Antrim Glens. Yet most attention is focussed on the

first half of the two-day route. The western section tends to be overlooked, which is a shame. With ten kilometres of upland walking, fully waymarked and secure in terms of access, this would be considered a highlight in some parts of the province.

The route’s three peaks may be modest in height – Glenhead rises to 393m, Douglas Top reaches 402m and Slemish is 437m – but the attendant views extend far and wide. On a clear day, visible landmarks include the Mourne Mountains, the Sperrins, Lough Neagh and the Antrim coast; in short, most of Northern Ireland. And all this just twenty miles north of Belfast.

The route starts at Greenmont Hill Farm and Agricultural College. As well as teaching young farmers the art of livestock management, the centre also manages the Glenwherry Hill Regeneration Project, which aims to create a sustainable grouse moor and manage habitat for hen harriers and merlin. As you cross the hills you may well be treated to a sight of these birds, along with the bouncing tails of fleeing hares.

The walk follows the Antrim Hills Way for its duration, and is fully signed, with stiles in place where necessary. The open moorland and mountainous terrain mean you should still carry a map however, and avoid walking in poor visibility. The ground can also be rather wet in places, so gaiters will be appreciated after rain.

The only problem with such a linear route is the logistical challenge of arranging

transport between start and finish. If you don’t have two vehicles at your disposal, consider a bike ride across the ridge as a warm-up to the walk. If you still have energy to spare, an ascent of Slemish also makes a fantastic way to end the day. See WWI Issue 92 for a full description of the route up the mountain.

Getting to the StartThe route starts at the public car park for Greenmont Hill Farm, on the southern side of Glenhead (GR: D 278,001). From Belfast, use the M2 and A8 to reach Ballyclare, then use your OS map to navigate the rest of the way. From Ballymena, take the A36 towards Larne. The entrance to the farm is marked by a large sign for the ‘College of Agriculture, Food and Rural Enterprise’. Turn up the entrance driveway to reach the public car

Glenhead to Slemish

The underrated western section of the Antrim Hills Way provides fine views and surprisingly enjoyable walking, says Helen Fairbairn. Photos by Gareth McCormack

Glenhead to Slemish

Beside a route marker on the way to Slemish

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park some 200m later. An information panel for the Antrim Hills Way confirms you’re in the right spot.

The route finishes at Slemish car park (GR: D 217,057). To reach Slemish from the start of the route, take the Shillanavogy road over the ridge between Douglas Top and Glenhead. Facilities at the car park include public toilets and picnic tables.

The WalkFrom Greenmont car park, head a short distance north along the tarmac lane, then turn left across a stone bridge. Join a concrete road and climb past a series of fields to a collection of outbuildings. The route is signed through several gates and onto a stone track, which leads out of the farm area towards open hillside.

The rise of Skerrywhirry can now be seen

to your right, while several small forestry plantations lie scattered ahead. After roughly 500m, turn left onto another, grassy track. Follow this along a series of fences, slowly gaining height amid the tussock-covered hills. Along the way you’ll need to pass through several gates and junctions, each of which is clearly signed.

You now arrive at a high, flat section of track that contours along the upper slopes of Glenhead. The easy terrain allows plenty of time to appreciate the views, which are suitably impressive. The panorama stretches from Agnews’s Hill in the east, past Belfast’s

Cave Hill and the windmills on Elliot’s Hill, to the distant peaks of the Mourne Mountains in the south.

When the track starts to descend, turn right and cross a wooden stile. You are now on open mountainside, and signs indicate that you should ‘look for and follow the white posts’. These are weathered and sometimes widely spaced, so it’s worth taking your time to locate each subsequent marker.

Once across the stile, begin by turning left and following the line of a fence. A faint footpath is evident through the rough grass as you follow a series of fences over several hummocks. The ground is sometimes wet underfoot, and there are several stiles and small ditches to negotiate. Though the route passes near the summit of Glenhead (393m), there are no distinguishing features to mark the top.

Descend along a fence to reach the tarmac of the Shillanavogy road. The route crosses

directly over the road, and begins to climb again on the western side. Rather than following the fence – as you have been doing for the last couple of kilometres – the trail now heads northwest across open ground. This brings you to a prominent marker post on the northeastern slopes of Douglas Top, where a new panorama is suddenly revealed. The unmistakable profile of Slemish is now visible to the northeast, and will act as a beacon for the remainder of the route.

Descend northwest until you meet a track, where you should turn right. Follow this down to a junction marked by an information panel for the Antrim Hills Way. Now head left, continuing along another track to a prominent waymarker attached to a large, upright rock. Turn right here and climb across two stiles to reach an expanse of rough heather and grass. A series of white-topped posts leads northwest across the moor, drawing ever closer to the steep slopes of

Slemish. As you cross the heather you may want to

spare a thought for St Patrick and his fellow slaves, who tended livestock in this area at the turn of the fifth century. The saint’s accounts relate how the slaves often spent months at a time alone in the hills, naked and with no

On Douglas Top, heading towards Slemish

The track north of Greenmont Hill Farm

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food bar what they could scavenge.It is something of a relief to reach the

cropped grass and firm terrain surrounding Slemish itself. If you want to finish the day with a flourish, climb directly up the southern slopes. The short, steep ascent necessitates some clambering over rocks, and basically follows a line of least resistance. Having walked north along the summit ridge, descend equally steeply in a northwesterly direction to reach the car park.

If you prefer to forgo the ascent and finish along the official route, skirt around the southwestern base of the hill. The path runs just beneath the jumble of granite boulders that litter the slopes to your right. Continue around the mountain for almost a kilometre until the car park comes into sight ahead. A final descent beside a series of wind-sculpted hawthorns brings you to the parking area itself.

Glenhead to Slemish

FACT FILE

Glenhead to Slemish

Distance: 10.5km/6milesAscent: 300m/1000ftTime: 4.- 4.5 hoursMaps: OSNI 1:50,000 Sheet 9

“The route’s three peaks may be modest in height – Glenhead rises to 393m, Douglas Top reaches 402m and Slemish is 437m – but the attendant views extend far and wide.”

Waymarking rock pointing the way to Slemish

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Jumbo Crossword

2011 Annual Columbia Jumbo Crossword

Competition ResultsCongratulations to the 5 winners of the Columbia OMNI-HEAT Jumbo Crossword Competition in our 2011 Annual.

Brendan Adams, Castledawson, MagherafeltJohn Pollock, Letterkenny, Co DonegalSeán Mac Mathúna, Cill ChainnighLinda Adams, Tallaght, Dublin 24Aileen Holmes, Eglinton, Co Derry

Our thanks to all who entered and to our crossword sponsors, Columbia.

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After the long and often severe winter, large numbers of walkers took advantage of the welcome warmth of spring sunshine to re-connect with the hills and begin a new season of outdoor activities. Nowhere has been more crowded than the Dublin foothills, where a

network of new paths and loop walks have transformed the landscape and filled the heather at weekends with droves of walkers, runners and cyclists, a sight that has to be seen to be believed. It seems that all the out-of-the-way, once wildlife-rich little pathways I have been following over the years are now official trails with constructed paths. The people of our ‘recessed’ nation need more than ever the wonder and freedom of the open spaces, and I applaud any efforts to improve access into our hills, but as I dodge bikes and stand aside to let another new hillwalking club pass, I sometimes long for the empty uplands of old.

Hillwalking clubs, providing great opportunities for so many to

enjoy the mountains with like-minded companions, have seen a great increase in recent years, but they are a relatively recent phenomenon. Clubs like the Ramblers and An Oige have been around for many years, but, although until recently their written records only went back to the 1940s, the members of the Brotherhood of the Lug have long claimed that theirs is the oldest. Last year, however, out of the blue, documentary proof turned up in the form of two notebooks containing records not only of the founding of the club in 1903, but details of its activities each year until the 1940s, thus completing the club’s records for 108 years.

The ‘brotherhood’ was founded by Messrs Redmond, Ross, Scanlan, Bateman and Martyn, on Wicklow’s summit, Lugnaquillia, on March 8th 1903. While it is clear from the written evidence that they were prodigious walkers, they were a fun-loving bunch that, in spite of the name they gave themselves, never took themselves too seriously. From

Ireland’s Oldest Walking Club

By The Way...

Michael Fewer takes a stroll back in time with the most historical of walking clubs.

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their records, in fact, it is not clear which activity they took more seriously, hillclimbing or carousing. The names of some of their meeting places are still familiar today, such as the Purty Kitchen, The Bailey and the Royal Hotel in Bray.

A typical day might involve a trek from Blessington via Ballysmuttan, the

Coronation Plantation and the Sally Gap to Lough Bray, where they had ‘dinner’ in

McGuirks Teahouse, and afterwards did their ‘usual toddle’ into Bray, completing about 35 kilometres. The ‘cradle’ of the Lug, as they called it, was the Ovoca Hotel in Avoca, where they had their annual dinners and stayed overnight before their annual ascent of Lugnaquillia. Vivid descriptions in the notebooks of their climbs and walks include references to getting lost in cloud on Lugnaquillia, glimpsing a glockenspiel on Maulin, braving blizzards in various parts of the mountains, and of course, regularly getting drenched in the rain. Early on there was a lot of discussion of the need for ‘safeguards’ on the mountain, and it was agreed to purchase for the club a compass, at 7/6, and a ‘flash’, as being caught on the hills after dark was not an infrequent experience for them. It is interesting to note that they

walked considerable distances in on-road: of course mountain roads those days were mainly gravelled, and there was no motor traffic. No pub was passed without calling for ‘certain articles that were dispensed on the premises’, and the Widow Byrne’s at Greenane and the Star Inn at Valleymount were popular places of resort.

Each annual dinner is described in detail. Apart from the cuisine enjoyed, records were played on the gramophone and songs were sung accompanied on the piano or on one occasion, a bassoon. A rule was passed ‘that any member who will not sing, dance or in any way amuse the brethren, when called upon, shall be sent to bed.’ A 1930 note refers to the

Chaplain of the Lugs, Rev Fitzjames Russell, ‘PP of Tinnehinch and Rector of Mullaghcleevaun’, leading them in ‘that beautiful hymn, My Mother said I never should Play with the Gypsies in the Wood.’

The current Brotherhood of the Lug had, up until the finding of the original documents, imagined the founders to be a rather serious and masonic group, but were delighted to learn that they were anything but that, and today’s members would have fitted in well in 1903. Their practice of not taking anything too seriously, enjoying the complete experience of long walks in the hills, socialising with like-minded companions, enjoying their food and their liquid libations, is indistinguishable from that of the early Lugs.

The Annual Dinner is still held, a lavish affair of good food and wine, at which tongue-in-cheek songs celebrating the climbing achievements of the members during the past year are sung, and new members are inducted. The membership today numbers about fifty, including elderly members who, although they don’t venture out on the hills any more, attend the functions well. The modern Lugs take to the hills every second Sunday, as set down on a colourful and detailed programme that is produced twice a year. There are no records of the 1903 Lugs travelling abroad: after all, the Wright brothers’ first flight only happened in the same year. The modern Lugs, however, have the benefit of economic air travel, and augment their Wicklow walks with one or more trips abroad to brave the hills in places like the Pyrenees, the Tatras in Poland, and the Cinque Terrae in Italy.

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Within easy reach of Rome, Michael Fewer found challenge and inspiration, alongside earthly delights. Photos by Michael Fewer

onti MSibillini

Monte Sibilla summit

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Monti Sibillini are perhaps the most beautiful and accessible mountains in the Italian Appenines. The range is about three

hours drive northeast from Rome where Aer Lingus and Ryanair fly to, and there is plenty of reasonably priced accommodation in the surrounding towns and villages. We stayed at the Hotel Paradiso in Amandola, where the food and hospitality was excellent: indeed, in spite of our exertions on the hills I think we all returned heavier to Ireland!

We broke our journey from Rome to Amandola to stay a night in a Refugio at Forca de Presta in order to climb Monte Vettore, at 2,467 metres the highest in the Sibillini range. Having left Ireland, however, during the warmth of a sunny June, we awoke to a cold and windy, typical Irish morning. The grey limestone summit of snow-streaked Vettore was hidden under a thick cloak of heavy-looking cloud, but we set out anyway across meadows of forget-me-nots, hoping for clearance later in the day. Alpine choughs were being blown about overhead like plastic bags in a gale as we followed a steep gravel path that corkscrewed up along the flanks of the mountain. Below us, to the west, the Piano Grande plain, which produces more lentils than any other place in Italy, was laid out.

Lentils, however, were the last thing on our minds as the gusting winds increased and we

entered the cloudbase and a world of grey mist. Visibility was a vague 30m at most, but the path, which had been a hefty pull for the first hour, was easier now. Just as well, because we had to brave a gusting wind to cross a series of snow fields which disappeared steeply downhill into the murk. Conditions worsened gradually as we went, and in this way we reached Refugio Tito Zilioli, a concrete block hut at 2,238 metres, where we had to review our situation. It was freezing cold, and above the rifugio we would have to climb 229 metres of a very exposed ridge to reach the summit. A lone Italian climber arrived who had been turned back by the gusting wind, and this helped us to make up our minds. We agreed, reluctantly, to turn back, and after a short rest, we descended again to Forca de Presta, where great steaming bowls of spectacularly good fettucini con fungi, washed down with a good mountain wine, were compensation for our disappointment.

As mixed weather continued for the following days, we combined exploring the spectacular deep valleys and gorges that characterise this part of the Appenines with visiting two local towns, Fermo and Ascoli di Piceni. Their ancient and classical streets were richly steeped in history and culture, but we were the only tourists wandering their cool labyrinths, admiring the fine buildings and sampling in the restaurants platters of meats, prosciutto, cheeses, deep-fried

mushrooms and olives and carafes of chilled Verdicchio white wine.

Our last day dawned bright and blue-skied, perfect for an attempt on Monte Sibilla at 2,173m. We started at the Refugio Sibilla perched on the southern flanks of the mountain, climbing up a steep grassy hillside covered with pale yellow milkwort, forget-me-nots and yellow and purple orchids, the air filled with larksong. The path, surfaced with white gravel, was narrow and wove its way up towards the ridge like a cow path. Mountain horizons of snow-streaked grey stretched off southwards into the haze, and as we climbed the town of Amandola came into view, looking like a collection of miniature terracotta blocks carefully heaped on a hill.

The arrival at the ridge, after passing clumps of blazing pink peonies, was a spectacular moment. It was an undulating knife edge that stretched from Monte Zampa (1791m) in the north, to our goal, Monte Sibilla, in the south west, sweeping precipitously down past tors and ravines into the sinuously meandering gorge of Gola dell’Infernaccio, the Gorge of Hell, where we had ventured a couple of days before to see its fine waterfalls. On the skyline ahead we could just make out the ant-like figures of a party that had set out before us.

After gazing in awe for a while we moved on towards Sibilla and as we progressed, we could not only see the Adriatic to the east, but the tops of the mountains of Croatia on

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the far side. To the south stretched the long, flat-bottomed green valley that led the eye up to the rocky snow-capped summit of Monte Vettore, which five days before had resisted our approach with gales and mist.

We were caressed by a mild, cooling breeze that, laden with the heady perfumes of the copious wildflowers, increased the effect of the endorphin high we were already enjoying. As we got nearer to the summit, the ring of low cliffs the circled the top gave it the look of having a comical cap. Although they looked formidable from afar and there was a fixed rope to assist us up onto the last grassy slopes that led up to the pointed summit. On the way we took a brief detour to have a look at the scant remains of the grotto or home of Sibyl, described variously in historic documents as ‘an ancient prophetess’ or ‘a seductress in league with the devil’, and after whom the mountain is named. It had been destroyed by the local Catholic Church in the 1930s for fear of the continuing pagan influence on the faithful of the area.

The summit of Monte Sibilla consists of two pinnacles, very similar to that of Errigal, and we sat on the east one and gazed about at a very large area of Eastern Italy. The conditions were perfect, and the absolute opposite to the mist and gales of Monte Vettore a few days before. It was difficult to

drag ourselves away, but eventually we got up and crossed the narrow little saddle to the westerly summit, eroded, stratified slabs of grey rock surrounded by bare red soil and gravel. The surface underfoot was loose gravel and the exposure considerable on both sides: the drop off to the north was almost vertical. Our leader, Des, having done it before, happily went first: he said it could never be worse than the previous time, when he had negotiated the ridge during a thunder storm!

It was easy enough in the end, but looking back from below we were impressed and very

pleased with ourselves at the verticality and narrowness of the pair of summits. Ahead of us the ridge continued away towards the south west to terminate in Monte Porche at 2235m, but we were going to leave that for another day. We descended by a track that zig-zagged down the southern slopes of Monte Sibilla, passing through what remained of great snow drifts, and delivered us into the heat of the valley and a welcome drink at the Refugio.

A week is not really enough to take in all that off-the-beaten-track Italy has to offer: maybe a lifetime wouldn’t suffice, either.

“Sibyl, after whom the mountain is named is described variously in historic documents as ‘an ancient prophetess’ or ‘a seductress in league with the devil’.”

Our goal in sight South Ridge - Monte Vettore

Monte Sibilla memorial

Scramble to the summit

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Monti Sibillini FileMaps: Kompass 666 Monti Sibillini

1:50,000

Terrain: Easy and delightful ridge

walking in dry weather, with a

couple of short scrambles.

Ascent: 700m

Distance 9km

The value for money in the area

was spectacular. In the Hotel

Paradiso ([email protected] ) we

paid €55 per night, for bed and

breakfast and evening meal with

wine, for single occupancy of double

en-suite rooms. Each of our large

rooms had a balcony that looked out

on the local peaks, picturesquely

streaked with late snow, and at

dinner each evening the mouth-

watering menu was delivered

verbally by the patron at the table:

Italian food always sounds so much

better than it is written. Hire for a

VW Passat stationwagen at

Leonardo da Vinci Airport worked

out at €180 euro each for four of us

for the week. For the Sibillini area,

see www.sibillini.net

South Ridge - Monte Vettore Descent from Monte Sibilla Monte Vettore and bluebells

Monte Sibilla memorial

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Eugene McGettrick samples a section of Austria’s alpine classic; the 1,200km Arnoweg. Photos by Eugene McGettrick

Hiking The AustrianWay

Austria

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Elevation marker at Schoppachhohe (2069m)

In winter, Austria’s snow-capped Alps become a mecca for skiers. But in late spring, when warming temperatures remove the frosty white mantle, the same rugged terrain becomes a walker’s paradise. The country possesses spectacular mountain landscapes, which are sprinkled with refuge huts and accessed by a network of trails so extensive, a hiker could happily trek for years without pounding the same path twice. Many of these paths are centuries old and connect towns and villages, which are also

served by an excellent public transport system; this means a walker can travel all day in a single direction and take public transport back to “base” at the end of the walk, without that (sometimes) tedious return journey to the trail entrance. On a trip there last September, I enjoyed several hikes, including the Alexander Enzinger Weg—a 5-hour hike located in the mountains above the village of Kaprun near Zell am See in Salzburgerland.

The Walk The Alexander Enzinger Weg is part of the Arnoweg—a 1200km walk that makes a circuit around Salzburgerland and takes about 2 months to complete. To reach the hike from where I was staying in Zell am See, I took a bus the short journey to Kaprun, and from there I took the Maiskogelbahn cable car up to its mountain station at elevation 1675m. Exiting the station, I went past some farm buildings and upon turning a corner, the snow-capped peaks of the high Alps stood out majestically against the blue sky. I was looking south towards the Hohe Tauern National Park, which at 1787km? is Europe’s largest national park. The highest peak in the park (and in Austria) is Grossglockner (3797m), but on this hike, the pyramidal-shaped peak of Kitzsteinhorn (3230m) dominated the skyline. Tourist brochures had recommended hiking the trail from south to north (presumably because it would be mostly downhill), but I was going in the opposite

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direction, which meant a (mild) ascent of over 600m; as compensation, I would be facing this spectacular scenery instead of walking with my back to it (although the views all around were quite impressive).

The trail made a sharp turn and headed up a hill through a grove of fir trees. I soon reached Glocknerblick—a mountain guesthouse and restaurant, which was busy on this sunny Sunday afternoon. For locals and visitors alike, these mountain restaurants provide a delightful way of spending an

afternoon—travelling up in a cable car, taking a walk in the alpine air, and having a meal and maybe a few drinks while gazing at majestic mountain scenery…who wouldn’t enjoy it?

The path climbed past a cattle shed and the familiar alpine sound of clanging cowbells filled the air. I hiked through a pasture, and then the path leveled out following the ridge contour south. Red (and white) paint markings at intervals on the rocks marked the route. In this part of

Austria, trails (like ski runs) are colour-coded according to their level of difficulty: blue represents easy paths that don’t require any mountain hiking experience; red is used on intermediate trails (like the one I was hiking), which require a good level of fitness, previous mountain hiking experience, and a head for heights; and black is used to denote the most difficult routes, which in addition to requiring a high level of fitness and experience, may also require specialised equipment such as climbing gear or crampons.

I reached a plateau and then dropped into a shallow col before beginning a steep ascent. Bilberry and heather flourished in this area, but unlike the peat surface usually associated

with these species in Ireland, the ground underfoot consisted of (obviously acidic) clay soil. Autumnal influence on the bilberry leaves had turned them reddish brown and a few people were busy picking the berries. After about 15 minutes of climbing up a

“A hiker could happily trek for years without pounding the same path twice.”

Highly visible signs point the way along the trail

Room with a view - an isolated cabin on a hillside near the trail

Austria

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narrow ridge, I reached the high point of Schoppachhöhe (2069m). This was a flat area and made a good stopping point for lunch.

After refreshments, I continued along the ridge summit, which offered great views of the surrounding mountains. I passed a small cabin sitting precariously on a hillside, and soon the trail cut a narrow scar along the side of a steeply sloping grassy ridge that dropped off for hundreds of metres to a valley far below. This was not a place for vertigo sufferers. Near the end of this stretch, rocks protruding from the earth broke up the path’s level terrain, and here I treaded carefully, as a stumble could have caused me serious consequences.

Moving on, the trail dropped into a col before climbing again, and soon it reached what was probably the most dramatic part of the hike. The ridge peaked into a narrow spine, and the path ran down its centre. The mountain dropped off sharply on both sides, and for about 100m, a steel cable was in place giving hikers some security. Before long, I reached the summit of Strangenhöhe (2212m). Even though it was a warm September day, at this elevation, patches of snow from a fall the previous week lay in shaded areas below me. The path then traversed

a sloping green mountain and crossed over three narrow streams. It ambled through undulating, rocky terrain for about 20 minutes, and along this stretch the walking was easy. By now I could see the Alpencenter lift station (2452m) above me, and overhead, gondolas were silently moving up and down the mountain to and from the station; from there another lift system would whisk vista vultures (and skiers in winter) even higher to Gipfelstation (3029m) on Kitzsteinhorn. The trail entered an area recently torn up by construction work, and it promptly disappeared in a mess of disturbed brown earth. I found it again and quickly hurried on from that unholy place.

Shortly, I reached the Krefelder Hütte (2293m). This is one of over 1000 refuge huts found throughout Austria, where overnight hikers can bed down for the night.

Heading south - magnificent views of the high Alps

Descending to the Maiskogel cable car station

Crossing a narrow ridgetop

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Alexander Enzinger Weg

Fact File

Getting there: Zell am See is located 1½ hours

south of Salzburg or 2 hours east of Innsbruck

by train. Kaprun lies about 7km south of Zell am

See. Several good hikes are found in the area.

The Hike: The Alexander Enzinger Weg takes 4

to 5 hours to complete and goes from.

elevation 1675m at the upper Maiskogelbahn

cable car station to 2293m at the Krefelder

Hütte. The cable car station is located a

kilometre south of Kaprun’s town centre. Local

tourist offices hand out free trail maps, which are

adequate for day hikes, or for a more detailed

plan, purchase Kompass 1:35,000 map No. 30

Zell am See—Kaprun.

Refuge Huts: Most huts are open from June to

late September. Prices start around €20 for

dormitory accommodation. For more information

(in German), go to www.bergverlag.at; for a

rough English translation, click on “translate” in

the Google toolbar.

When to go: June to late September is prime

hiking season in the Austrian Alps. July and

August are the busiest months—and they also

tend to be the wettest.

Dormitory accommodation is standard, but a few have private rooms. The Austrian Alpine Club manages a little over half and the remainder are in private ownership. Some are open during the ski season, but in summer most are open from May or June to late September. The Krefelder Hütte closes in August, so on my visit it was locked up. This hut marked the end of the Alexander Enzinger Weg, as here it connected with a trail known as the 711 (many trails in Austria as assigned only a number).

I then headed downhill along the

711, which took me northeast towards the Langweid gondola station. The hillsides here were quite rocky but without any dramatic peaks, slopes or views. I reached a small dam and from here it was only a few minutes to the lift station. Route 711 would have taken me all the way down to the valley floor in about 2 hours, but by then I would have missed the last bus back to Kaprun, so instead, I boarded a gondola and enjoyed an exhilarating ride over the edge and down to the valley, with 10 minutes to spare before the bus arrived.

To the south, green hills give way to frosty peaks

Studying signs along the trail

Austria

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Walking World 101

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