Volume XXIX, No. 8 Richmond, Kentucky September, A Chapter of American Wine Society Since March,...

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www.americanwinesociety.org A Chapter of American Wine Society Since March, 1985 Volume XXIX, No. 8 Richmond, Kentucky September, 2013 Jean-Jacques Dufour Newsletter Spanish wines, Dale said, are wines that bullfighters will kneel to. Bullfights, Hemmingway would say, are blood sorties into what is true Of the earthly dramacourage in man standing, in beast kneeling, Nature put out of balance for a forward thrust, in this way repealing Fear of the bull- strength of the tender vine . . . fear of living as the gods do. Members of the Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter of American Wine Society arrived at the beautiful hacienda of Dale and Alison Emmons for their first hosting of a chapter meeting, and midst banana trees and the sounds of Spanish music and song, members enjoyed an enchanted evening. . . . Even Comrade Wilson seemed just right for the surroundings; quitting his revolutionary garb, he wore an outfit that made him look like a Basque mine inspector. . . . Charming guest Chris Sullivan, who grew up in Spain, made the atmosphere liltingly halcyonic with his guitar and its tempting tango melodiesso much so that some of the ladies had to hasten on by him and take refuge behind the banana trees in order to prevent unclassified but forbidden thoughts from taking hold. . . . The Emmonses had placed a spacious tent over the thick verdant lawn, thus seating us as of one-ear, and everyone paid rapt attention to their interesting remembrances of Spain. Alison told of the charms of the Spanish countryside and the friendliness of the people, and Dale related his life- long desire to see a real Spanish bullfight. In preparation for one the next day, he tuned in a bullfight on Spanish television. Unable to sustain his stomach for the whole program, he did not go to the real bullfight the next day. And to think, Dale is a political consultant and he ought to be used to that sort of thing. Five Sturdy Spanish Grenaches Educated and Mystified The Sights and Sounds and Tastes of Old Spain At Our First-Time All-Spanish Grenache Tasting WINE 1: Altovinum Evodia, Calatayud, 2012, 14.0%. ($10.99) Points: 16.141 st Grape Composition: 100% Grenache. Comments from Afar: “A Spanish red wine that put California to shame.” . . . “When it comes to bang for the buck, Evodia Garnacha leaves the Golden State in the dust.” WINE 2: Mayo Viticultors Priorat Glop, Priorat, 2010, 14.5%. ($23.99) Points: 15.802 nd Grape Composition: 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20 Carignane. Comment from Afar: “A well-defined unpretentious bouquet with lifted scents of mulberry, dark plum, and a touch of licorice.” WINE 3: Almansa la Atalaya, Almansa, 2010, 15.0%. ($18.95) Points: 14.625 th Grape Composition: 85% Grenache, 15% Monastrell. Comment from Afar: “Big, smoky, and concen- trated on the nose, this has a ton of black fruit and char notes. This is mouth-filling, deep—powerful stuff.” WINE 4: Calatayud Atteca Old Vines, Calatayud, 2011, 15.5%. ($18.99) Points: 15.414 th Grape Composition: 100% Grenache. Wine Spectator (88): Black cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate, and balsamic flavors mingle in this expressive red, with a plush texture, racy acidity, and gentle tannins.” WINE 5: Breca Old Vines, Calatayud, 2010, 15.5%. ($20.99) Points: 15.553 rd Grape Composition: 100% Grenache. Comment by editor: “Parker rated this wine 94. We rated it 78. Some of the other four wines received scores of 7, 8, and 9 that other tasters gave 18, 19, and 20. One taster gave wine 3 a score of 7 (35, undrinkable), while a national wine expert rated it 91. In all my years in JJD, I have never seen such wild variations in scores. I am mystified. And somewhat embarrassed. Hosts Dale and Alison Emmons

Transcript of Volume XXIX, No. 8 Richmond, Kentucky September, A Chapter of American Wine Society Since March,...

www.americanwinesociety.org

A Chapter of American Wine Society Since March, 1985

Volume XXIX, No. 8 ▪ Richmond, Kentucky ▪ September, 2013

Jean-Jacques Dufour Newsletter

Spanish wines, Dale said, are wines that bullfighters will kneel to.

Bullfights, Hemmingway would say, are blood sorties into what is true

Of the earthly drama—courage in man standing, in beast kneeling,

Nature put out of balance for a forward thrust, in this way repealing Fear of the bull- strength of the tender vine . . . fear of living as the gods do.

Members of the Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter of American Wine Society arrived at

the beautiful hacienda of Dale and Alison Emmons for their first hosting of a

chapter meeting, and midst banana trees and the sounds of Spanish music and song,

members enjoyed an enchanted evening. . . . Even Comrade Wilson seemed just

right for the surroundings; quitting his revolutionary garb, he wore an outfit that

made him look like a Basque mine inspector. . . . Charming guest Chris Sullivan,

who grew up in Spain, made the atmosphere liltingly halcyonic with his guitar and

its tempting tango melodies—so much so that some of the ladies had to hasten on

by him and take refuge behind the banana trees in order to prevent unclassified but

forbidden thoughts from taking hold. . . . The Emmonses had placed a spacious tent

over the thick verdant lawn, thus seating us as of one-ear, and everyone paid rapt

attention to their interesting remembrances of Spain. Alison told of the charms of

the Spanish countryside and the friendliness of the people, and Dale related his life-

long desire to see a real Spanish bullfight. In preparation for one the next day, he

tuned in a bullfight on Spanish television. Unable to sustain his stomach for the

whole program, he did not go to the real bullfight the next day. And to think,

Dale is a political consultant and he ought to be used to that sort of thing.

Five Sturdy Spanish Grenaches Educated and Mystified

The Sights and Sounds and Tastes of Old Spain

At Our First-Time All-Spanish Grenache Tasting

On a Stormy August Evening at June Morning

The Heavy Bettors Meetings

WINE 1: Altovinum Evodia, Calatayud, 2012, 14.0%. ($10.99) Points: 16.14—1st

Grape Composition: 100% Grenache. Comments from Afar: “A Spanish red wine that put California

to shame.” . . . “When it comes to bang for the buck, Evodia Garnacha leaves the Golden State in the dust.”

WINE 2: Mayo Viticultors Priorat Glop, Priorat, 2010, 14.5%. ($23.99) Points: 15.80—2nd

Grape Composition: 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20 Carignane. Comment from Afar: “A well-defined

unpretentious bouquet with lifted scents of mulberry, dark plum, and a touch of licorice.”

WINE 3: Almansa la Atalaya, Almansa, 2010, 15.0%. ($18.95) Points: 14.62—5th

Grape Composition: 85% Grenache, 15% Monastrell. Comment from Afar: “Big, smoky, and concen-

trated on the nose, this has a ton of black fruit and char notes. This is mouth-filling, deep—powerful stuff.”

WINE 4: Calatayud Atteca Old Vines, Calatayud, 2011, 15.5%. ($18.99) Points: 15.41—4th

Grape Composition: 100% Grenache. Wine Spectator (88): “Black cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate,

and balsamic flavors mingle in this expressive red, with a plush texture, racy acidity, and gentle tannins.”

WINE 5: Breca Old Vines, Calatayud, 2010, 15.5%. ($20.99) Points: 15.55—3rd

Grape Composition: 100% Grenache. Comment by editor: “Parker rated this wine 94. We rated it 78.

Some of the other four wines received scores of 7, 8, and 9 that other tasters gave 18, 19, and 20. One

taster gave wine 3 a score of 7 (35, undrinkable), while a national wine expert rated it 91. In all my years

in JJD, I have never seen such wild variations in scores. I am mystified. And somewhat embarrassed.”

Hosts Dale and Alison Emmons

Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter Promoting Appreciation of Wine Through Education

Business Meeting

Comrade Chair David “Lenin” Wilson, now at long last exposed

enough to the manners of polite society so as not to embarrass

himself, called the meeting to order and thanked the Emmonses for

hosting the meeting, which included buying the house, landscaping

with exotic plants, planting banana trees, setting up a large tent,

placating the weather-gods, and arranging for authentic Spanish

guitar music. LaVerne introduced her guests, Tasios and Suzanne

Karathanasis, a very striking international couple. The Emmons’

guests were son Will Emmons, current law student, and Chris

Sullivan, guitarist and sometime resident of Spain.

Denise Hastings announced motherly and proudly that young

son Parker, excessively talented guitar player, will appear

next Monday on the WoodSongs Old-Time Radio Hour.

(Those who heard him play at the last meeting were not

surprised and joined with the others in thunderous applause.)

Denise then added that Parker was surprised that he had so

much fun at the last meeting with old people.

The treasurer, Mike Eidson, asked irately who paid with cash,

this being a violation of chapter policy. Alex Fassas

acknowledged that it was he, but that he had signed the bills.

Bob Miller announced that there was a winner of the

prestigious Jean-Jacques Dufour Award this year at the

Kentucky State Fair wine competition. The award is given to

the winemaker whose wine is judged to be the best of those

made from grapes grown in Kentucky on the winemaker’s

property. The winner this year, receiving a beautiful plaque

that our chapter furnishes, is Ed Whitworth, Taylorsville,

Kentucky for a wine made from Niagara grapes.

Secretary LaVerne Cook has recorded that our membership is at

35. The bylaws allow a maximum of 40. Please see the bylaws

for the procedure for nominating new members.

Kimberly Kidd reminded the members that their meeting has

been moved to October 5 in order to accommodate exigencies.

(Their residence has changed—see the back page of this

newsletter for the new directions.)

l

I am in the autumn of my chairmanship of Jean-Jacques Dufour.

The struggle to transform this wayward, reactionary organization

into a respectable socialist wine commune has been bloody and, at

times, depressing. But I have given my all and I believe that the

future is ahead of us and not behind us. In my last few months of

gallant and exemplary leadership, I must make every effort to

complete my vision of transformation—how we approach wine to

taste it to our greatest benefit rather than just tossing it down like

warm beer. I know that I am fighting a lonely battle, but I also

know that the principles that I have espoused could someday

appeal to intelligent, forward-looking members—if we ever get

any of those.

With this burden heavy on my lonely shoulders, made

somewhat lighter, however, because I know that I am right, I

would like to complete the Articles of the Jean-Jacques Dufour

Revolution. Before I give you my last two, I must remind you by

brief summary of the first five:

Article One: We must break out of our capitalist pattern of

serving only bourgeoisie wines. We must promote and taste more

proletariat and peasant wines.

Article Two: We must somehow get prelim wines under

control so that they do not distract us from the tasting wines.

Article Three: We must demand that the ladies dress more

modestly and eschew cosmetics so that we men can concentrate on

the wine. (Perhaps Muslim women face-coverings would do it.)

Article Four: Sufficient educational information about the

upcoming tasting should be given in the JJD Newsletter so that

the hosts do not have to make extended remarks at the meeting.

Article Five: Members should host regularly or be shot.

Here, then, are my last two revolutionary articles

Article Six: The officers of the JJD Chapter should meet at

least twice a year to discuss any problems or concerns that may

have arisen, and to look to the future in ways that will improve the

chapter. By looking to the future we see future possibilities that do

not exist in the past; but by looking only to the past, we do not see

the future but only how the past refused to look to the future—

which is why revolutions fail, if you didn’t already know that.

Article Seven: We should think seriously, and soon, about

putting an age-limitation on the newsletter editor. The press is a

powerful weapon. If it gets or remains in the hands of a doddering

old codger with axes to grind, with venom to ventilate, and with self-

aggrandizement to sell in his boring attempts at humor, the chapter

suffers, even though it may not know it. The age for retirement of

the editor must be set at 83 or 90, whichever comes first.

“The first wine I drank on that

salad day of my youth must

have been quite good, for I danced

with a maiden fair, one willing sheep,

and the deputy sheriff.”

Sir Edward Arbuckle

Recollections of Essex Days

“Apartheid” Seating at the October Meeting

In a whimsical remembrance of what kept African wines off

our shelves for those years, Donnie and Kimberly will seat

men and women at separate tables—JJD Apartheid! To what

educational purpose you may ask? Donnie himself explains:

“In a somewhat altered ode to apartheid, we will be asking

the ladies and gentlemen to be seated at separate

tables. Some of us have often wondered how the scores

would fair without the influence of oppressive spouses, and

this will be a kind of social experiment to see if our women

folk and men folk are truly different in their tastes. Plus, it

will give each spouse an open forum to speak freely with

their brothers/sisters without their anchor (i.e., moral

compass) holding them back! We may even have separate

prelim wines for the sexes. I can’t wait to hear what

Comrade Chair has to say!”

Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter Promoting Appreciation of Wine Through Education

Cook’s Particles and Wine Variations

next man I date to know it. I want to show him what to do with

the cork. Would you please explain cork-etiquette? I have

found that in nice restaurants, some of the waiters don’t even

know what to do with the cork. I would very much appreciate

your cork-advice. My future with men probably depends on it.

If my next date orders an expensive bottle of wine and I can

get my hands on his cork, things could turn out well.

University Professor

Dear University Professor:

Your question is especially appropriate in this day when corks

have evolved into somethig other than bark from a tree. The

traditional tree-bark cork, so beloved by makers of very expensive

wines (especially the French, who like doing a thing the same way

they have always done it even if it is patently wrong), is such a

fixture that if a waiter pulled a synthetic cork out of a bottle of

Chateau Margaux, the French ambassador to the United States

would be recalled. Tradition is hard to overcome, but stinky corks

are helping to do it.

Stinky? Yes, a bark-cork can be host to bacteria that make the

wine go bad. And you can smell the problem immediately if you

hold the cork up to your nose. That is why in fine restaurants the

waiter will cremoniously remove the cork and, with an unctuous

thrust of his hand over a white-napkined arm, present the cork to

the man for his examination.

There are therefore two things to consider about a cork-out-of-

the-bottle. If you see a wine-colored streak from the bottom of the

cork to the top, this means the bottle has leaked and too much air

has gotten into the bottle, and it has likely introduced some

contaminants. Immediately smell the cork; even if you don’t see

evidence of leakage, you should smell the cork. Never hesitate to

send back a bottle of wine whose cork doesn’t smell right—and I

would advise the same concerning a man.

New synthetic corks (called stoppers because they don’t come

from the cork tree) are far superior to traditional corks. The chance

of their being contaminated is practically nil. The knock against

them by traditionalists is that they are not the same. (Some people

never like to do anything for the first time, and I hope your next

date is not one of them.) This leaves us with the question of

whether the waiter should present a synthetic cork to be

examined—in your case by you! Even though the need to inspect

the synthetic cork and to smell it is not great, I am still a

traditionalist about certain things. You examine the cork but let

him pay for the dinner.

Ask Amphictyonis

Dear Amphictyonis:

I am a single woman and I like to treat myself

to a nice dinner and fine wine on occasion.

I prefer my own company to that of a man.

This is because men think they know everything

about wine etiquette, especially the cork—what

to do with it when the waiter opens the bottle.

I am confused about that, but I don’t want the

Ask Jerry™

Dear Madison County Gardener:

Yes, as a matter of fact, it can. Since my recent retirement I

have been doing independent research on unified field theory.

My research is, of necessity, independent because of internal

politics in the scientific community. They can't accept the

astounding effectiveness of my mathematical models and my

papers are therefore not accepted by recognized publications.

But fortunately for you, and your timely question, an offshoot

of my groundbreaking research does explain variations in the

taste of wines. But first I must provide some background

information.

Fifty years ago it was determined that electrons and

quarks and other sub atomic particles had mass, not because

they just had mass but because they were submerged in an

invisible substance that we now call the Higgs field. More

recent experiments using the Hadron Collider in Geneva

have finally proven that we are, in fact, up to our asses in

Higgs particles that are conferring mass on everything. The

rest of the scientific community also now believes that the

Higgs particles spin at a constant speed.

However, my own work has shown that most of the

"Higgs particles" spin at various speeds and come in various

sizes. Therefore, I now call all of these nonstandard-size or

variable speed particles: Cook's particles. These particles’

variations in speed can be tricky. A large concentration of

slow spinning particles obviously caused the Big Bang and a

more recent smaller explosion in my basement resulting in

some structural damage to the house and unfortunate plant

mutations in the yard: a forsythia bush became self-aware

and tried to kill me.

As a precautionary measure, I have temporarily shut

down the small particle accelerator that I constructed in my

basement from empty wine bottles, the leaf blower and some

plutonium. Hopefully, the herbicide can fully eliminate all

the plant life in the yard and restore some order. I also

suspect that a small black hole was formed at some point

during my experiments and that my car keys have passed

into it, either being crushed into part of the singularity or

perhaps emerging into another spatial dimension.

But enough about the daily trials of my scientific

research—the issue at hand is wine. Essentially—and I have

an entire notebook full of equations to mathematically

support this statement—wine tastes better if the "Cook’s

particles" surrounding it are larger and spinning rapidly.

Continued as Ask Jerry™ on page 4

Dear Ask Jerry™

I know that you are a physicist. Can

physics explain why one wine tastes

better than another?

Madison County Gardener

Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter Promoting Appreciation of Wine Through Education

s

The Art of Picture Captions

Some members have recently commented on a regular feature of

this newsletter, the Picture Page. They assume that the editor/

photographer makes up innocuously humorous little captions in

advance of taking pictures and then goes around at the meetings

making pictures that will match the captions. But the reverse is

true. The pictures come first—some requested and arranged, some

spontaneous and on the hoof. Then the editor calls upon Kantian

pure reason to analyze each picture and, after much prayer,

meditation and fasting, the caption emerges. Captioning is not easy

but it is necessary for those members who like to look a lot but

don’t like to read (this newsletter), and they are numerous.

Now it’s your turn. Let’s see who can submit the best caption

for the picture below in which Bob has placed two napkin rings

over his eyes and Meg has hands-blinded herself. There will be a

notable prize for the winner. Results in the next newsletter.

* * *

Ask Jerry™-cont.

If the particles are smaller slow-spinners, then wine tastes worse.

Hypothetically, if the particles were small enough and spinning

slowly enough and there were enough of them, the wine could

explode. I am investigating this hypothesis further to see if there

are military applications of this wine phenomenon from which I

might make a lot of money.

Though the chances of bad wine exploding are slim, I

recommend some caution. If outside, one might be tempted to

toss the contents of a glass of bad wine on a nearby bush.

However, my analysis of the remains of the previously mentioned

homicidal forsythia revealed that it was itself surrounded by

incredibly small slow spinning Cook’s particles; adding more

would only increase the potential instability. Instead, I

recommend drinking bad wine as quickly as possible because it

appears that the human body is almost always primarily

surrounded by average sized "Higgs particles" spinning at a

constant speed. Dilution is the solution. (If these last sentences

don’t make any sense, don’t worry—they didn’t make any sense

to me, either. But if we wait long enough, given the nature of

science, they might make sense later on in a paradigm shift.)

As to why some wines have large rapidly spinning particles

and some have small slow spinning particles, we can only

speculate that it has something to do with growing conditions or

variations in the fermentation process.

dl

Factors Under Our Control and Not Under

Our Control That Affect Wine Judging

Editorial

As suggested by the font chosen by the editor for the headline,

which was an act of his free will, some things about tasting and

scoring a wine are under our control; but the editor had to choose

from fonts available to him in his word processor, which was not

his doing. The same is true about wine judging. Also, the choice

of Old English Text suggests that we have an age-old problem

on our hands. This is true worldwide—especially in France.

At the last meeting someone gave one wine a score of 7 and

another gave the same wine from the same bottle a 20. It would

seem downright rational that we should pause occasionally and

consider the issue of wide variations in how we score wines—or

what’s the point?

Factors Under Our Control The temperature of the tasting-wine is something that we can

control. The wrong temperature can produce wrong, if not

embarrassing, results. For instance, an oaked Chardonnay should

be served at 54–61°F. If it is served significantly colder, it loses

its mellow vanilla oakiness, and the acids take over, throwing the

wine out of balance. If the Chardonnay is served too warm, it

will go flat because the acids are masked. Take the case of

Cabernet Sauvignon. A full bodied, oaked Cabernet should be

served at 59–64°F. Too cold and the wonderfully complex

aromas go away; too warm and the tannic acids, so vital to the

mouth-feel of the wine, take a holiday. (There are good wine-

temperature charts available. We should use them.)

I would like to mention three more factors under our control

two of which, at the mere mention of them, will enrage most JJD

members. Given the nature of our chapter, there is no possibility

that we will change as a chapter regarding them; but these

factors, being objectively true, may serve individual needs and

result in a few superior JJD wine-judgers. Eating spicy foods,

and lots of them, just before we taste a wine, deadens the senses

and confuses the palette. . . . Drinking two ounces each of eight

prelim wines just before we taste the program-wines deadens the

senses and confuses the palette. . . . You’re welcome.

And then there is the most controllable of all—information.

The more you know about the different characteristics of the

many grapes and the wines we drink, the less you will ask a Pinot

Noir to act like a Cabernet Sauvignon. Nothing ruins a good wine

in the mouth like uninformed prejudice. Books can overcome.

Factors Not Under Our Control What drives the “experts” crazy (except in France, where experts

are immune to criticism) is how recent controlled experiments have

determined that body chemistry among the experts varies widely

and this directly influences judgment and affects scores. Too much

acid and too little acid, for instance, may not be as much a flaw in

the bottle as a natural reaction in the mouth, which cannot be

altered. . . . There are psychological and environmental factors at

work in our tasting of wines that we may not be aware of and

probably not be able to do anything about without severe

counseling. For example, researchers have noted that the time of

day and the weather can affect taste, not to mention childhood

experiences with different smells and tastes—some good, some bad.

All of this can explain the difference between scores of 16 and

18. Sadly, it can explain the difference between scores of 7 and 20.

Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter Promoting Appreciation of Wine Through Education

Spanish Guitar Music and Banana Trees

//

/

Alex: “There, there, sweet

Marva. Don’t cry. Surely,

Bob didn’t mean it that way.

David: “I tried my best to educate

the JJD bourgeoisie in socialist wine

principles.” Chris-to-Himself: “Weird.”

“Okay, close your eyes if you have never

fantasized about making love in a vat

of fermenting Chardonnay.”

Kim-to-Herself: “Here we are listening intently and

respectfully to the lecture on Spanish Grenache.

I hope this gets Bob Miller off his high-horse.”

Guest Suzanne Karathanasis achieved exalted goddess

status in the annals of JJD when she told Charles what

she thought about Cabernet Sauvignon.

,

The photographer wanted to ask Melissa

what she was thinking, but he did not want

to risk having his image of her shattered.

Cynthia: “You want to know what thumb-on-

chin means? ‘Uni navi ne committas omnia.’”

’ Melissa: “Oooo, glad I didn’t!”

Maestro Tasios conducts the ladies in

singing “Carve dat Possum.” LaVerne is

actually singing but Suzanne has lost it.

Don: “Marvelous” Marva is going to find out soon

what it’s like to try to bring order to a bunch of

yowling epicurean wine-cats at the JJD meetings.

Marva: “Unlike Comrade David, I will keep

politics out of the chapter.” Alison: “That’ll be

like trying to keep politics out of my house.”

Dale: “A banana tree in Kentucky

is as rare as a liberal Democrat.

And both need a lot of fertilizer.”

Sandra-to-Herself: “And to think, Jesus

could turn this whole pool into wine. I’m

sure Jerry would be the first one to dive in?

Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter Promoting Appreciation of Wine Through Education

s

Graham Beck

And the Lexington—

South Africa

Connection

Graham Beck, the South African winemaker and a leading

international breeder who bought Gainesway Farm in Lexington

in 1989, died in 2010 in London at age 80.

Under the Beck family’s ownership and Antony Beck’s

direction, Gainesway has built on the foundation established by

the late John Gaines, who was an early adapter of the stallion

station concept. In addition to the original Gainesway, the farm

now totals more than 1,500 acres, including the former Greentree

and Whitney farms.

Graham Beck Wines is now entering its third generation as a

family winery. It was established in 1983 when entrepreneur

Graham Beck purchased Madeba farm outside the Western Cape

town of Robertson. . . . The success of the Robertson winery has

been extended to the second Graham Beck cellar in Franschhoek,

one of the oldest wine-making regions in South Africa.

Graham Beck was born in Cape Town and his success as an

entrepreneur began while studying commerce at the University of

Cape Town. During this time he established a successful home

renovation business called Kangra, ventured into the coal mining

business, and pioneered the centralized transportation and export

of coal through Richards Bay on the north coast of Kwazulu-

Natal. His business interests are global and he and his wife

divided their time between homes in South Africa, Britain and

America while remaining committed to their African roots and

continuing to invest time, energy and funds in the future success

and growth of South Africa.

The Beck vineyards are located on four diverse farms in the

Western Cape province of South Africa, enabling the Robertson and

Franschhoek Cellars to have access to grape varietals grown in the

climatic conditions and soils to which they are best suited. The two

farms in the Firgrove area in Stellenbosch’s Helderberg district,

provide most of the premium red varietals to the Graham Beck

range. The Stellenbosch region is universally recognized as South

Africa’s premier wine region due to its excellent terroir suited to the

growing of a variety of premium red cultivars. After the success of

the Graham Beck Robertson Cellar, Graham Beck consolidated his

wine interests by bringing the Graham Beck Franschhoek Cellar into

the fold. [From the Graham Beck Winery web site]

Apartheid Kept South African

Wines off American Shelves

Nelson Mandela’s release from prison in 1990, after more than

twenty-seven years in confinement, signaled a new era in South

African politics and paved the way for the lifting of trade

sanctions and the importation of South African wine into the

United States.

South Africa is the world’s seventh largest producer of wine.

And the variety is immense. John Platter (OCW) puts it this way:

“By the early 1990s South Africa produced around 3,500 wines

across the style spectrum, from first-rate dry whites to deep

flavored, splendidly oaked, intense tannic reds; feathery sparkling

wines, including some made strictly in the image of champagne;

and port and sherry types—all this representing a tenfold

expansion of choice within a decade. It is still a chaotic

renaissance on a broad scale—some call it a steeplechase into the

unknown. . . .”

But things seem to be settling down a bit.

The Kidds have selected the following Graham Beck wines for

the October tasting:

- 2010 Chardonnay/Viognier

- 2010 Chenin Blanc Game Reserve

- 2010 Chenin Blanc/ Sauvignon Blanc blend

- 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Most of us are familiar with the taste profiles of Chardonnay,

Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Here is something

about the less familiar Chenin Blanc, “With nearly a quarter of the

total vineyard area, Chenin Blanc is still by far the most widely

grown variety in South Africa. . . . South African growers do not

necessarily admire the style of Loire Chenin. What the French see

as finesse and subtlety, the South Africans see as raw fruit and

acidity. While South Africans are putting some emphasis on bottle

aging, they are still more likely to seek flavors of guava and

banana, pear and pineapple than the sort of mineral tightness that

takes ten years in the bottle to open out.” [Oz Clarke, EG] . . .

“Chenin Blanc wines are moderately distinct, with aromas that are

less easily characterized than those of White Riesling or Sauvignon

Blanc, for example; they are described as having odors of pears,

melons, or peaches. . . . Jancis Robinson considers Chenin Blanc to

be ‘One of the world’s undervalued treasures’.” [Marian Baldy,

UWC] . . . “The nose: Trademark characters such as fresh citrus,

grassy characters are found in dry wines, whereas the sweet wines

offer a honeyed, apricot, peachy character always followed with a

firm backbone of acidity; therefore they can live for forty years or

more. Unoaked wines have a sharper citrus nose than oaked . . .

with high acidity levels.” [Clive Michelsen, TGW]

It’s Off to South Africa We Go!

Jean-Jacques Dufour Chapter Promoting Appreciation of Wine Through Education

www.americanwinesociety.org

Attending the September Meeting

2013-2014 CALENDAR – 6:00 p.m.

October 5, 2013: Donnie and Kimberly Kidd (Note change of date!)

November 7- 9, 2013: AWS National Conference, Sandusky, Ohio

December 14, 2013: Mike and Kathy Eidson

January 11, 2014: Adrianna Francis, Meg Moore, Bob. Miller (Progressive)

February 8, 2014: Lyle and LaVerne Cook

March 8, 2014: Alex and Marva Fassas

April 12, 2014: Donnie and Kimberly Kidd

May 10, 2014: Dave and Judy McGrew

June 14, 2014: Don and Melissa Wiesmann

July 12, 2014: Cynthia Resor and David Wilson

August 9, 2014: Jerry and Verna Kay Cook

September 13, 2014: Ken and Faye Deters

October 11, 2014: Charles and Janet Bruner

October 30 – November 1: AWS National Conference, Charlotte, NC

November 8, 2014:

December 13, 2014: Mike and Kathy Eidson

Next Meeting – October 5, 2013

Donnie and Kimberly Kidd

733 Sovereign Drive

Richmond, KY 40475

Phone: 859-624-3711

DIRECTIONS: From the Eastern Bypass, turn left onto Lancaster Ave/KY-

52. Continue to follow KY-52 for 2.5 miles. Turn left onto Elliott Ford Road.

If you find yourself driving under I-75 on KY 52, turn around because you have just missed Elliot Ford Road. Go 0.3 mile and take the 3rd left onto

Sovereign Drive. The Kidd Villa at 733 Sovereign Drive is 0.2 mile on the

left. Our destination is just past Wisdom Lane, which seems a bit of a shame.

MEMBERS

Hosts: Dale and Alison Emmons

Charles & Janet Bruner

Jerry & Verna Kay Cook

LaVerne Cook

Ken & Faye Deters

Mike & Kathy Eidson

Alex & Marva Fassas

2013 Officers

Chair: David Wilson Sommelier: Marva Fassas Secretary: LaVerne Cook Treasurer: Mike Eidson

News Editor: Bob Miller Past Chair: Dave McGrew Editor Emeritus: Sandra Plant

Letters to the editor or uninvited columns

may be sent to:

[email protected]

Bob Miller

416 Bethlehem Road

Dreyfus, KY 40385

Adriana Francis

Greg & Denise Hastings

Donnie & Kim Kidd

Bob Miller & Meg Moore

Don & Melissa Wiesmann

Cynthia Resor & David “A” Wilson

GUESTS

Will Emmons

Tasios and Suzanne Karathanasis

Chris Sullivan

“The guests are met, the feast is set:

May’est hear the merry din.”

- Coleridge: The Ancient Mariner

The Kidd October Tasting

Wines from the Graham Beck Winery, South Africa (see the article on page 6

for a listing of the wines and background information on the Graham Beck

Winery and South African wines). Please give kind and accepting attention to

the special seating arrangements for this meeting as described on page 2. Four

tasting wines, so bring five glasses.