Visual Property Inspection

Inspection No. 2986-1573Date: 23-Jul-2011

Visual Property Inspection

500 Landing AveSmithtown, New York 11787

Prepared for :

Angelo Zeoli27 Terry Ln.,

Smithtown, New YorkPhone No. : (917) 417-6291

Inspected by :

Bob Van Stry34 Metzner Rd.

Ronkonkoma, New York 11779Phone: (631) 467-8900 Fax: (631) 585-2242 Email:

[email protected]

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500 Landing Ave, Smithtown, New York 11787

16000005960

Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Property and Exterior

Inspection Preamble

A visual home inspection was conducted to determine the overall condition of the home and identify areasthat are outdated, in a state of disrepair or deteriorated and requiring updating, replacement, maintenanceor repairs. The inspection is limited to a visual inspection that inherently has limitations with finishedmaterials and stored items in a home.

VegetationSnowDebrisParging

Limitations

Approx. Temperature 84

Frozen GroundRainClear

Conditions

House Faces: WestEstimated Age: 51 yrs

Split Level2 StoryDetached

Building

The inspected structure is a Ranch home built around 1965. Overall House looked ok.

Back of house.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011


CracksPargingBlockConcrete

Damaged: NoFoundation

Parging covers most of the foundation. Small areas I could see looked ok. Regrading away from foundation is needed in some areas to help keep water away. Fill and sealfoundation cracks to reduce potential water penetration and subsequent damages.Will need to lower the grading by some areas of the foundation to expose more of the foundation and keepthe earth away from the siding.

Lower grading.

WoodVinylBrick

Damaged: NoWall Surface

Composite siding looked Ok.Wood siding looked ok.

Window WellsUpdated

Windows and Doors

First floor windows were old metal sliding windows.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011


Earth to Wood contactTreeShrubSlopes to house

Landscaping

Trim and maintain vegetation away from structure to reduce moisture damages and premature wear offinishing materials.

Poison Ivy. Poison Ivy

GravelAsphaltSlopes to House

Visible Damage NotedDriveway

Regrade driveway to stop pooling water. Keep drain clear.

Driveway is getting old and has cracks in asphalt and damage from roots. Future patching or replacementwill be needed. Have a driveway contractor give estimate to repair.

Will need patching

UnsecuredNone

Operational: YesLighting

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Open GroundNo GroundInstall GFCIGFCI Protected

Operational: YesReceptacles

Install GFCI for added safety from shock.

SlatePatio BlockConcreteSlopes to House

No Visible Damage NotedWalkway/Path

CrackConcreteStone tileUnsecured

No Visible Damage NotedPorch/Entry

Front landing/patio look ok.

InfestationDeterioration

BrickPaving StoneImproperly constructedSlopes to House

No Visible Damage NotedDeck/Patio

Back concrete patio looked ok. Wood post looked ok except one that was loose.

Water stains and rot on small area of ceiling from roof leak above. Will need repair.

Rotted ceiling from roof leak above.

Clogged DrainDeterioratedAdd Railing

Basement Walkout

Keep drain under wood floor clear to prevent pooling water from entering the basement.

Door looked ok. Wood floor outside is rotted and will need repair.

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RotWoodLeansNot stable

Significant Visible Damage NotedRetaining Wall

Retaining wall around the basement entrance was in poor condition and will need replacement in the nearfuture.

Rot in walls.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Garage

Attic AccessInsulatedDoubleDetached

Type

Cluttered garage. Hard to see anything.

Cluttered Garage

SectionalAutomaticStainMetal

Operational: YesDoor

StainConcreteSettlementCrack

Visible Damage NotedFloor

Some patching to driveway is needed by the garage door.

StainWoodConcreteDrywall

Damaged: NoWall

StainWoodCrackDrywallNo Fire Barrier

Ceiling

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Roof Structure

No AccessWalk OnRoof EdgeBinocular

Inspected By:

OtherValleyGableFlat

Main Roof

Roof looked ok. It is getting old.Anticipate regular maintenance to the roofing surface, gutters and related accessories to provide intendeddrainage function and reduce the potential for leaks to develop. Gutter clogs and loose or damagedcomponents can lead to leaks that can cause major, sometimes costly damage to both structural and finishmaterials in the home.

SpillExtend LeaderDrains above ground

Drains below groundGalvanizedAluminumUnsecured

Damaged: NoGutter/Downspout

Extend all downspouts minimum 6' away from foundation to reduce wall deterioration, potential water entryand subsequent damages. Clean and maintain gutter system regularly to reduce water damages as a resultof clogging. House is located in a high vegetation area.

Clean and maintain gutter system regularly to reduce water damages as a result of clogging. House islocated in a high vegetation area.

Extend away from house. Clean gutters.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Roof Structure

MildewWoodVinylNot vented

Damaged: NoFascia/Soffit

Make sure wood soffits are vented.

Vent soffit.

# of Layers 2

FungusCurlStainBroken

Nail PopTarConcreteFiberglass ShingleAsphalt Shingle

Damaged: NoCovering

Roof looked ok. Roof is around 15-20 years old. Some mold/fungus seen on roof could be from tree branches above. Mold can do some damage andcause premature wear and aging to shingles.

Patio roof has some low spots where water pools. One area is leaking and rotting ceiling below. Somerepair is needed.

Notice copper flashing around skylight keeps roofclean below it. No mold or mildew.

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Roof Structure

Roof getting old but looked ok. Patio roof.

Pooling water and where leak is. Clean gutter. Roof dips down under the gutter.

Broken shingles.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Roof Structure

ExceededEndMiddleTypical

Life Expectancy

SkylightVent StackAir VentUnsecured

Damaged: NoAccessory

Old skylight. Electric mast.

CopperReplace When Re-roofingResealTarred

DeteriorationGapAluminumValleyStackRoof to Wall

SkylightFlat RoofDrip EdgeDormerChimneyConcealed

No Visible Damage NotedFlashing

I recommend adding a cricket behind fireplace chimney to help direct water to either side of chimney.

Add a cricket.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Roof Structure

LooseCrack

MetalBrickFurnaceFireplaceStructural concerns

Significant Visible Damage NotedChimney/Vent

2 Chimneys. Fireplace and boiler chimney looked ok.

Fireplace chimney Boiler chimney.

CracksMasonryConcreteNone

Damaged: NoChimney Cap

Fireplace chimney

Advise Cleaning and SweepingImproper installation

CrackRain CapClayMetal InsertNone

Damaged: NoVisible Flue Liner

Contact a qualified technician to clean and maintain chimney flues to promote safe and efficient operationof heating appliances and fireplaces. This should be done annually or as prescribed by the chimneytechnician as obstructions can occur.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Attic

InsulatedPull DownEnteredNo Access

Limitations

2 attic access.

SagInfestationOpen jointsRafter

No Visible Damage NotedStructure

Attic area looked ok.

Rafters looked ok.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Attic

StainSagMildewRoofing FeltPlywoodCondensation

No Visible Damage NotedSheathing

SHEATHING COMMENTThe interior of the attic space was in good condition and at the time of the inspection was dry and noevidence of moisture infiltration was noted.

The interior plywood sheathing exhibits no signs of damage due to moisture along the interior rafter bays.This is an indication that the previous layers of exterior roofing were installed in a timely manner.

Sheathing looked ok.

Estimated Depth 5 inches

BlownBattMineral FiberFiberglassConcealedRadiant Barrier

No Visible Damage NotedInsulation

I recommend adding more insulation to help lower heating cost. (6 - 10 ") I recommend pulling insulationout of eves so air can flow up from soffits.

Could always use more insulation.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Attic

BlockedMechanicalRoofGable EndSoffitNone

Ventilation

Add more venting.

PlasticInto AtticNot InsulatedConcealed

Exhaust Duct

Extend bathroom exhaust vent to discharge to the exterior through an approved vent to reducemoisture/condensation related damages.Connect the range hood vent pipe to the roof vent.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Basement/Structure

FurnishedObstructionFinished

Limitations

Most of the basement was finished. I did have some small areas that I could see the foundation wall andsome structure.

ConcreteVinyl TileCracks

No Visible Damage NotedFloor

\

DrywallBrickConcreteEfflorescenceConcealedCracks

No Visible Damage NotedWall

Unable to determine condition of foundation wall due to drywall/wood paneling finish. Fill and seal all minor cracks in the exterior walls to reduce moisture penetration and further cracking.

Drop ceilingDrywallUnfinishedStain

No Visible Damage NotedCeiling

UnsecuredExposed WiringConcealed

Circuit Wire

CarpetWoodTrip HazardWornUnsecured

No Visible Damage NotedBasement Stairway

WoodIncompleteUnsecured

Damaged: NoRailing

StainSplitUnsecuredConcealed

No Visible Damage NotedFloor Joist

Small areas I could see looked ok.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Basement/Structure

Solid WoodX-WoodX-MetalConcealed

Bridging

No AnchorsStainMildewConcealed

No Visible Damage NotedSill Plate

Past signs of carpenter ant activity seen above laundry.

Concealed

Not ApplicableBearing Wall

LeakSettlingFrost Heave

CrackFloatingOn Poured ConcreteOn PilingConcealed

No Visible Damage NotedSlab on Grade

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Electrical Service

CopperFrayedUnsecured120/240 VoltNo ConduitOverhead

Service Entrance and Cable

For all electrical deficiencies noted below consult a qualified Licensed electrician to review and providerepairs, improvements and upgrades as needed. These recommendations can impact safety in the homeand should be addressed.

Old meter.

Ampere Rating 200

OverfusedBreakerSwitch/Cartridge Fuse

Main Disconnect

Ampere Rating 200Location Apt living room wall.

UpgradeObsoleteUnsecuredObstructedNot Opened

Distribution Panel

Panel looked ok.

Panel was ok.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Electrical Service

AFCI BreakerGFCI BreakerScrewBreaker

Fuse

Double tapping was seen in panel. This is a possible fire hazard. Have electrician correct. One wire perbreaker.

Double tapping.

CorrosionNon-Metallic Sheathed

Non-Metallic SheathedCopperAluminumConcealed

Circuit Wire

Some wires on walls in garage may need to be in conduit for added safety. Have electrician check

Wire should be in conduit.

Install GFCIs

Receptacles and Lighting

Install GFCI unit outside to reduce potential shock hazards.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Electrical Service

Meter By-PassDisconnectedWater MainGround RodConcealed

Grounding

The integrity of the electrical system ground cannot be verified by a visual inspection.

Unsecured

CorrosionImproper ConnectionGas PipeWater PipeConcealed

Bonding

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Heating

Weather

Piping ConcealedSystem Shut DownOperating in Heating Mode

Limitations

3rd Floor2nd Floor1st FloorBasement

Smoke and CO Detectors

Recommend installing new Carbon Monoxide and Smoke detectors in the home where recommended orrequired by manufacturer or local regulations. Provide regular testing and maintenance to ensure properoperation. It is common for manufacturers to recommend replacing CO detectors every 5-7 years andsmoke alarms every 7-10 years and manufacturer recommendations should be used as a guide.

Manufacturer Ford.

Oil FiredAdvise Service and Repair ContractMid EfficiencyHot Water System

Operational: YesHeating System

Old steel boiler budget to replace soon.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Heating

Thermostat Location: Hallway

Multi Zone SystemStandardProgrammableUnsecured

Operational: YesThermostat/Humidistat

2 zone heat upstairs and one zone heat in the basement.

3 Zone valves. 2 Circulating pumps.

InadequateExternalInternal

Air Requirement

SootCorrosionUnsecuredImproper RiseMetalSidewall

Venting

ExceededMiddle/EndTypical

Life Expectancy

Unit was about 26 years old.

Old boiler. Budget to replace soon.

Not Checked

Operational: YesOil Burner Blower

Burner was working good at time of inspection

SootCorrosionAdvise AdjustmentNot Visible

Burn Chamber

OK

May need a new liner. Have oil heat mechanic check further.

SealedUnbalancedMissing

Barometric Damper

OK.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Heating

LeakUnsecuredNo FilterBasement

Oil Tank/Piping

Oil tank was behind a wall. Small areas I could see looked ok. Tank is old and I would budget to replace ina few years.

Bottom of poil tank.

DirtyUndersizedMissingDisposable

Filter

Clean filter after every month of operation.

KinkCorrosionUnsecured

Duct/Joint/Housing

Clean ducts every 2 years to remove the dust.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Heating

DirtyCorrosionDamaged FinsCentralAir to AiNot Checked

Not FunctionalAC/Heat Pump

Old system was not working well. Budget to replace.

Old a/c compressor. Old air handler in attic.

Return Air 78Supply Air 76

Temperature Differential

LeakCorrosionImproper Drain

Condensation Line

Need to remove old condensate line from plumbing stack vent and patch hole in pipe so it cannot vent intothe attic. Then run pipe out into the gutter.

Improper connection.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Plumbing Components

House WinterizedFinished Basement

Limitation

GalvanizedConcealedMetered

Public Supply

LeakCorrosionNot Tested

Shut-Off Valve

Main shutoff valve.

CorrosionUnsecuredRecaulkShut-Off ValveFrost FreeNot Checked

Operational: YesHose Bibb

Meter Outside

Gas Plumbing

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Plumbing Components

Dissimilar materialsCorrosionPlasticCopperConcealed

Damaged: NoDistribution Piping

Areas that I could see looked ok.

Some corrosion seen on water shutoff valves. This is from water leaking around the stem of the valve inmost cases. Have a plumber give estimate to correct.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Plumbing Components

Advise Septic Tank CheckedCorrosionPlasticGalvanizedConcealed

Damaged: NoWaste Drainage

Copper and cast iron pipes I could see looked ok. Most waste pipes were concealed.

Cast iron waste pipe. Copper waste pipe behind wall.

UnsecuredUndersizedCopperCast IronConcealed

Damaged: NoVent Stack/Piping

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Plumbing Components

Location By basement bath

Improper PlugConcealed

Damaged: NoMain Cleanout

Cleanout looked ok. Because it is underground, I recommend having a Cesspool Company dig up cover ofcesspool and determine its current location and condition.

Age 26 years

UnsecuredDirtyGasPower Vented

Operational: YesHot Water Tank

I recommend adding an indirect hot water storage tank to help save money for heating hot water.

Signs of old leaks by hot water coil. I would monitor this area. As hot water coil gets old it cannot keep upwith hot water demands. Budget to replace soon

Water stains on coil.

ExceededEndTypical

Life Expectancy

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Plumbing Components

Dryer WhirlpoolWashing Machine Whirlpool

No Floor Drain Visible

Laundry Area

Clean exhaust vent periodically, depending on use, but atleast every 2 years, or when installing your dryer in a newlocation.Disconnect vent from the dryer and clean one section at atime until you reach the exhaust hood.To clean out lint, use the hose attachment on yourvacuum, or a pole or wire with a feather duster or ragattached.Be sure the flapper on the outside end of vent movesfreely.When cleaning is complete, be sure to follow theInstallation Instructions supplied with your dryer for finalproduct check."

Problem with lights in laundry room. Have corrected.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Family Fireplace Fireplace

External AirFirebrickGas InsertBuilt-in

Type

StoneMarbleCeramicBrickSoot

Fireplace Front

CrackedRaised

Hearth

Ok.

UnsecuredPoor fitMetalMeshNone

Door/Screen

Not CheckedFan

Firebox

Ok.

CreosoteCorrosionUnsecuredSticksNone

Operational: NoDamper

Clean.

Advise Sweeping and InspectionSootNot Checked

Chimney Flue

Contact a qualified chimney sweep to ensure the flue is cleaned properly with no blockages and to test andinspect the damper to ensure safe operation prior to use.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

3 1/2 Bathrooms Bathrooms

3rd Floor2nd Floor1st FloorBasement

Location

Water offLowSuspectNormal

Water Flow

CeramicWornWorn

Damaged: NoFloor

CeramicDrywallCrackPatched

Damaged: NoWall

TileDrywallCrackPatched

Damaged: NoCeiling

Attic access in 1/2 bath ceiling.

StainMildew

DamagedAluminumThermalSlidingDouble HungVinyl

Operational: YesWindow

Windows worked ok.

Operational: YesLight

Separate the Light from the GFCI. Have electrician correct.

Open GroundInstall GFCI

Receptacle

WoodHingedDamagedBinds

Door

Recommend Installation

OperationalExhaust Fan

I recommend installing bathroom exhaust fan in master bath..

ChipWorn

Damaged: NoSink

UnsecuredSticksNo Shut-offLeaks

Operational: YesFaucet

LeakCorrosionSlow DrainImproper TrapUnsecured

Damaged: NoTrap/Drain

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

3 1/2 Bathrooms Bathrooms

Missing HardwareMildewWoodLaminateWorn

Damaged: YesVanity

Vanities ok.

ScratchMildewRegroutLaminateSolid SurfaceUnsecured

Counter

LeakCrackUnsecuredTank LooseNo Shut-Off

Operational: YesToilet

CrackMildewRegroutCultured MarbleCeramicUnsecured

Damaged: NoTub and Shower Enclosures

Seal tile with good tile sealer to help keep water out.

LeakCorrosionUnsecuredSticksNot Tested

Operational: YesFaucet / Diverter /Shower Head

Faucets are old and replacement should be considered.

ConvectorThermostatNone

Heat Source

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main Kitchen Kitchen

CeramicWoodVinylCarpetCrackWorn

Floor

CeramicWallpaperBrickDrywallCrackPatched

Wall

TileWoodStippleDrywallCrackPatched

Ceiling

None



Receptacles

One receptacle had reverse polarity. Have electrician correct.

Install GFCI's for added safety. Have electrician install ground.

StainMildewDamagedWoodVinylAluminum

ThermalBayAwningDouble HungNot TestedBinds


MetalWoodHingedSlidingDamagedBinds

Operational: YesPatio Door

EnamelStainlessDoubleSingleChipWorn

Sink

LeakCorrosionUnsecuredSticksNo Shut-Off Valve




WornMildewRegroutGraniteLaminateUnsecured

Damaged: NoCounter


Damaged: NoCabinet

Filter CloggedDuctless Exhaust

NoisyNo LightNo ExhaustCooktop Exhaust

Operational: YesRange Hood and Exhaust Vent

Vents thru the roof.

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Garbage DisposalWall OvenMicrowaveDishwasher

StoveRefrigeratorDid Not Test All FunctionsTested ON/OFF only.

Major Appliances (Built-in)

Air RegisterConvectorThermostatNone

Heat Source

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Floor

CeramicWallpaperBrickDrywallCrackPatched

Wall


Ceiling

None



Receptacles



ThermalBaySlidingDouble HungNot TestedBinds


EnamelStainlessDoubleSingleChipWorn

Sink

LeakCorrosionUnsecuredSticksNo Shut-Off Valve




WornMildewRegroutGraniteLaminateUnsecured

Damaged: NoCounter


Damaged: NoCabinet

Filter CloggedDuctless Exhaust

NoisyNo LightNo ExhaustCooktop Exhaust

Operational: YesRange Hood and Exhaust Vent

I recommend venting to the exterior.

Garbage DisposalWall OvenMicrowaveDishwasher

StoveRefrigeratorDid Not Test All FunctionsTested ON/OFF only.

Major Appliances (Built-in)

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Air RegisterConvectorThermostatNone

Heat Source

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Family Room, Living Room, Dining Room, Hallway, Bedrooms Interior Rooms

Interior General Comments

The interior consisting of the bedrooms, living and dining rooms, and other common spaces were similar inmake up and materials and all comments will be listed in this section. Specific conditions and remarks willidentify the individual room in question (ie; Bedroom, Living Room ) and noted conditions should such existat the time of the inspection.The comments are intended to give an overview and highlight areas that may require maintenance,improvements, repairs or updating:


Floor

Wood floor looked ok.

CompositeWoodWallpaperDrywallCrackUneven

Wall

Old a/c unit built into the wall. Budget to replace soon.Some rooms had old paneling on the walls.

None


Worked ok.

Have Electrician UpdateNo GroundOpen Ground

Damaged: NoReceptacles

ok


Ceiling

Water stain from bathroom above. Ceiling is in thebasement living room.

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Date: 23-Jul-2011

Family Room, Living Room, Dining Room, Hallway, Bedrooms Interior Rooms


ThermalBaySlidingDouble HungNot TestedBinds


Tested windows opened ok.

WoodHingedSlidingBinds

Operational: YesDoor

Doors looked ok.

MetalWoodHingedSlidingDamagedBinds

Operational: YesPatio/Door

Front Door looked ok. Dining room door was ok.

HingedLightHingedBinds

Operational: YesCloset/Door

Some doors need adjustment to operate better.

ConvectorThermostatNone

Heat Source

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SERVICE RECORDS AND DOCUMENTATIONIt is recommended to obtain service, update and replacement records from the current owner prior to theclose of escrow for any work performed in the home to help determine associated upkeep costs, age ofrelated components and possible existence of warranty or guarantee from a manufacturer or servicecompany.

REPAIRS AND RENOVATIONSAll updating, maintenance and repairs performed in the home whether recommended in the report orotherwise should be performed only by qualified and licensed individuals. This provides some assurancesas to the quality of work and accountability for any work contracted. It is recommended to obtain multipleestimates and check references for all contractors hired to conduct work in a home.

CONSTRUCTION REGULATIONS / CODE COMPLIANCEA standard home inspection does not include evaluation of a property for compliance with building or healthcodes, zoning regulations or other local codes or ordinances. Such inspections, if required, are normallyperformed by local officials or private code inspection agencies at the time of the original construction orrenovations. Codes are revised on a periodic basis; consequently, existing structures generally do not meetcurrent code standards, nor is such compliance usually required. Any questions regarding code complianceshould be addressed to the appropriate local officials.

LEAD BASED PAINT:It has been determined that this home was built before 1978 and therefore stands a high risk of having leadbased paint present. Not only is lead not good for your health, under the EPA ruling 40 CFR Part 745effective April 22, 2010, any renovation, remodeling or painting not performed by yourself must be done bya certified contractor following lead-safe practices and this could lead to higher prices than similar contractsperformed on homes that do not have lead based paint present. It is recommended that a preliminaryscreening for lead based paint be conducted to determine the likelihood of the presence of lead beforeclosing if this is a concern for you.

FINAL WALK-THRU INSPECTIONA final walk-thru inspection of the property by the purchaser is customary in real estate transactions and isnormally conducted a day before closing of the transaction. At this time, all personal property andfurnishings should have been removed and an unobstructed examination of the interior is possible.You are advised to walk through and carefully observe the condition of the property for any flaws or defectsthat may not have been visible during the home inspection or which may have occurred since then. Youare especially urged to look for any signs of water leakage and physical damage.Since the condition of mechanical equipment can change over any given time period, it is yourresponsibility to verify the functional condition of the various components and systems prior to settlement.You are advised to operate all appliances, plumbing fixtures and faucets, heating and cooling systems(weather permitting) and all other equipment included in the sale of the property.


16000005960

Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Additional Comments

General Comments

Main areas of concern were:Basement entrance way will need replacing.Some regrading is needed.Remove poison ivy on side of house.Old boiler. Budget to replace.Old a/c system. Budget to replace.Upgrade old windows.Fix double tapping in panel.Repair patio roof.Add cricket to chimney.

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Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Additional Comments

SERVICE RECORDS AND DOCUMENTATIONIt is recommended to obtain service, update and replacement records from the current owner prior to theclose of escrow for any work performed in the home to help determine associated upkeep costs, age ofrelated components and possible existence of warranty or guarantee from a manufacturer or servicecompany.

REPAIRS AND RENOVATIONSAll updating, maintenance and repairs performed in the home whether recommended in the report orotherwise should be performed only by qualified and licensed individuals. This provides some assurancesas to the quality of work and accountability for any work contracted. It is recommended to obtain multipleestimates and check references for all contractors hired to conduct work in a home.

CONSTRUCTION REGULATIONS / CODE COMPLIANCEA standard home inspection does not include evaluation of a property for compliance with building or healthcodes, zoning regulations or other local codes or ordinances. Such inspections, if required, are normallyperformed by local officials or private code inspection agencies at the time of the original construction orrenovations. Codes are revised on a periodic basis; consequently, existing structures generally do not meetcurrent code standards, nor is such compliance usually required. Any questions regarding code complianceshould be addressed to the appropriate local officials.

LEAD BASED PAINT:It has been determined that this home was built before 1978 and therefore stands a high risk of having leadbased paint present. Not only is lead not good for your health, under the EPA ruling 40 CFR Part 745effective April 22, 2010, any renovation, remodeling or painting not performed by yourself must be done bya certified contractor following lead-safe practices and this could lead to higher prices than similar contractsperformed on homes that do not have lead based paint present. It is recommended that a preliminaryscreening for lead based paint be conducted to determine the likelihood of the presence of lead beforeclosing if this is a concern for you.

FINAL WALK-THRU INSPECTIONA final walk-thru inspection of the property by the purchaser is customary in real estate transactions and isnormally conducted a day before closing of the transaction. At this time, all personal property andfurnishings should have been removed and an unobstructed examination of the interior is possible.You are advised to walk through and carefully observe the condition of the property for any flaws or defectsthat may not have been visible during the home inspection or which may have occurred since then. Youare especially urged to look for any signs of water leakage and physical damage.Since the condition of mechanical equipment can change over any given time period, it is yourresponsibility to verify the functional condition of the various components and systems prior to settlement.You are advised to operate all appliances, plumbing fixtures and faucets, heating and cooling systems(weather permitting) and all other equipment included in the sale of the property.

Limitations

Chimney - The interior of chimneys and their flue liners are not visible on our visual inspection. You areadvised to obtain the services of a qualified chimney sweeper or other qualified personnel to perform acomplete inspection and tune up of your heating appliances prior to use.

Occupied Home – The home is occupied by the current owner with their personal belongings and furniturewhich limits some areas of inspection.

Circuit Sizing - The Inspector is required to address the compatibility of conductors and overcurrentdevices. In some instances, general trade procedures include over-sizing overcurrent devices to guardagainst nuisance (e.g. air conditioning units, dryers). The Inspector is not required to evaluate such generaltrade procedures, but to inform you of incompatibility.

Cluttered Conditions - The home is in a cluttered condition with excess furniture, personal belongings,storage boxes, etc. throughout the home. This limits the inspection and could conceal defects or damagethat could otherwise be visible.An opportunity to view the property prior to the closing with all excess items removed at the finalwalkthrough is customary and all areas should be checked at this time.

Skylight – Skylights are an excellent source of light to dwellings, but frequently have condensationproblems and are always a risk for potential future water leaks because flashings require regular ongoingmaintenance by an experienced roofer.

Finished Basements - The finishing of the basement prevents visual inspection of foundation walls, floors,mechanical and structural components. Normal/High moisture readings were found at time of inspection.Despite these tests results, a dry basement at this time or at any time in the future is not guaranteed.

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16000005960

Bob Van Stry

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Additional Comments

Supplementary Comments

Recommend installing & testing regularly Carbon Monoxide Detectors (locate in bedroom area + roomswith fireplace) and new Smoke sensors (mandatory every floor). Propane & Natural Gas sensors are alsoavailable in stores. ($35-$60)

It is important that water from eve troughs drains well away from house - at least 6 feet away from wall.Also it is usually better to reposition downspouts to drain water above ground and away from house, thencap drains.

Some ceilings and walls may require nail holes, nail pops, dimples and/or cracks to be patched beforepainting.

Monitor the roof and attic on a seasonal basis for leaks and (wind) damage. Repair as soon as possible.

It is very important that water & runoff drain away from foundations to minimize chance of water leakageinto the basement, as cracks in foundation walls are common.

Make sure the ground, patios and walkways slope away from the house for the first six feet.

Not all windows or doors may have been checked due to obstructions (i.e. blinds, curtains and/or furniture).

Not all receptacles/outlets tested due to limited accessibility (i.e. furniture, clutter and/or obstructions).

Ceramic floor tiles, especially larger ones, can crack unexpectedly or become loose - repair as required.

Have a cesspool company inspect cesspool. You may need to have the cover dug up to see the cesspool.

Have an electrician add a ground to the receptacles that were not grounded for added safety.

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This summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to theclient. It is recommended that the client read the entire report.

Bob Van Stry

16000005960


Report Commentary

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Property and Exterior1.0

1.1 Landscaping

Trim and maintain vegetation away from structure to reduce moisture damages and premature wear offinishing materials.

1.2 Driveway

Driveway is getting old and has cracks in asphalt and damage from roots. Future patching orreplacement will be needed. Have a driveway contractor give estimate to repair.

1.3 Receptacles

Install GFCI for added safety from shock.

1.4 Deck/Patio

Water stains and rot on small area of ceiling from roof leak above. Will need repair.

1.5 Basement Walkout

Door looked ok. Wood floor outside is rotted and will need repair.

1.6 Retaining Wall

Retaining wall around the basement entrance was in poor condition and will need replacement in thenear future.

Garage2.0

2.1 Type

Cluttered garage. Hard to see anything.

2.2 Floor

Some patching to driveway is needed by the garage door.

Roof Structure3.0

3.1 Gutter/Downspout

Clean and maintain gutter system regularly to reduce water damages as a result of clogging. House islocated in a high vegetation area.

3.2 Covering

Patio roof has some low spots where water pools. One area is leaking and rotting ceiling below. Somerepair is needed.

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Bob Van Stry

16000005960


Report Commentary

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Attic4.0

4.1 Exhaust Duct

Extend bathroom exhaust vent to discharge to the exterior through an approved vent to reducemoisture/condensation related damages.Connect the range hood vent pipe to the roof vent.

Basement/Structure5.0

5.1 Floor

\

5.2 Sill Plate

Past signs of carpenter ant activity seen above laundry.

Electrical Service6.0

6.1 Distribution Panel

Panel looked ok.

6.2 Fuse

Double tapping was seen in panel. This is a possible fire hazard. Have electrician correct. One wire perbreaker.

Heating7.0

7.1 Heating System

Old steel boiler budget to replace soon.

7.2 Life Expectancy

Old boiler. Budget to replace soon.

7.3 Oil Burner Blower

Burner was working good at time of inspection

7.4 Burn Chamber

May need a new liner. Have oil heat mechanic check further.

7.6 AC/Heat Pump

Old system was not working well. Budget to replace.

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Bob Van Stry

16000005960


Report Commentary

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Plumbing Components8.0

8.1 Distribution Piping

Some corrosion seen on water shutoff valves. This is from water leaking around the stem of the valve inmost cases. Have a plumber give estimate to correct.

8.2 Hot Water Tank

Signs of old leaks by hot water coil. I would monitor this area. As hot water coil gets old it cannot keep upwith hot water demands. Budget to replace soon

Family FireplaceFireplace9.0

9.1 Firebox

Ok.

3 1/2 BathroomsBathrooms10.0

10.1 Ceiling

Attic access in 1/2 bath ceiling.

main KitchenKitchen11.0

11.1 Receptacles


main KitchenKitchen12.0

12.1 Receptacles


Family Room, Living Room, Dining Room,Hallway, Bedrooms

Interior Rooms13.0

13.1 Lighting

Worked ok.

13.2 Door

Doors looked ok.

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Bob Van Stry

16000005960


Report Commentary

Date: 23-Jul-2011

Additional Comments14.0

14.1 General Comments

Main areas of concern were:Basement entrance way will need replacing.Some regrading is needed.Remove poison ivy on side of house.Old boiler. Budget to replace.Old a/c system. Budget to replace.Upgrade old windows.Fix double tapping in panel.Repair patio roof.Add cricket to chimney.

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®Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter

Information Series©2007 Pillar To Post Inc.

A ground fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI, is an inexpensive electrical safety device that can protect you and your family members from a serious electric shock.

Have you ever had an electric shock? While it is an unpleasant experience, it is not usually fatal. However, given the right conditions, the same shock could be fatal! If your body makes a solid connection to the ground, the shock could easily kill you. Here are two examples of a solid ground connection: If you are physically standing or

touching the ground outsideIf you touch something conductive, such as any part of the plumbing system in your

house, that is also touching the ground outside

In other words, if you decide to operate your hedge trimmer in your bare feet and you get a shock, you may not survive it.

How Can a GFCI Help?A GFCI is a special electrical outlet that prevents electric shocks in situations such as the ones described above. The GFCI monitors the electrical current leaving from and returning to the outlet. The current leaving the outlet should be the same amount as the returning current. If the current returning is less than that which leaves, the missing current could be passing through somebody’s body to the ground. The GFCI detects the mismatch and shuts off the electrical outlet in a split second.

Where Should GFCI Outlets Be Located?GFCI outlets should be installed in any area that presents a risk of an electric shock withg a direct path to the ground. In other words, anywhere you might directly touch the ground outside or anywhere where you might touch a part of the plumbing system. Some smart GFCIs locations are: Exterior outletsKitchen counter outlets (not common in Canada)Bathroom outletsGarage outletsOutlets in unfinished basements

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Pillar To Post®, the home of home inspectionWe welcome your comments and suggestions for future Information Series topics

[email protected] 1-800-294-5591 www.pillartopost.com

This is not a complete list. Areas near swimming pools, hot tubs, and so on should also include this type of outlet.

GFCIs are not perfect, however, and have been known to “nuisance trip” when connected to certain types of electrical equipment. For this reason, exceptions to the suggested (or required) locations for GFCIs exist. For example, a regular outlet would be a better choice for a freezer in your garage since the potential for nuisance tripping of the GCFI is high and might go undetected for days, leading to spoiled food in the shut-off freezer.

Remote GFCISeveral electrical outlets usually connect to a single circuit in an average home. A single GFCI outlet will protect all of the outlets in the circuit, even if the other outlets are not GFCIs. But the GFCI outlet must be the first outlet in the string in order for it to properly protect the other outlets, and, of course the connections have to be properly made.

Remote GFCIs sometimes cause confusion for home owners in the following ways:A home owner thinks the bathroom does not have a GFCI because the outlet looks like a standard one.

The standard outlet under the protection of a remote GFCI should have a sticker indicating its GFCI protection. The problem is, the sticker does not stick forever. A Pillar To Post® inspector can test this for you.

A standard outlet that does not appear to work in a bathroom or kitchen may actually be attached to a remote GFCI outlet that has nuisance tripped. Before calling an electrician, check the GFCI outlets in other bathrooms and in other locations around the house.

TestingGFCIs are easy to test and should be tested every month. Simply press the test button on the outlet. You should hear a pop as the reset button pops out a little. To reset, just press the reset button. If the GFCI fails to trip, or if you are unable to reset it, it is time for an electrician to replace it.

Special breakers also provide GFCI protection to the entire circuit. These breakers can be installed instead of GFCI outlets. The GFCI breaker should also be tested monthly. You will recognize this breaker from the test and reset button.

GFCIs can help prevent injury and death from electric shock. It is a small device worth having to ensure the safety of your family members.

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®Electrical Outlet Problems


The electrical outlet not only provides vital access to the electrical current that makes your house hum, but it also warrants deeper consideration for reasons of comfort and safety. Our Pillar To Post® inspectors have seen it all when it comes to incorrect outlet wiring, a safety hazard if left unattended. But before we discuss safety measures, let’s start with a quick tour of this component and its mate, the plug.

Have you ever wondered why your electrical outlets have holes of different sizes and shape? To accommodate the plug is the obvious answer. But there is more to this relationship than meets the eye. Hidden behind the outlet is a series of wires that must be properly connected for the outlet’s safe functioning. On a modern electrical outlet that accommodates a three-pronged plug, each hole serves a specific purpose: the round hole is for the ground pin on the plug; the small slot takes the small blade on the plug and connects to the “hot” wire in the outlet (the wire that can cause a shock); the large slot takes the large blade and connects to the “neutral” wire in the outlet.

Specific wires have to be connected to the proper terminals for an outlet’s safe function. Correct installation is so important that our Pillar To Post® inspectors spot-check outlets with an outlet tester during every inspection.

Reverse PolarityThe large slot and small slot on an electrical outlet, and the different-sized blades on a plug, designate their respective polarizations, and ensure that the plug goes in the outlet only one way, a safety feature that reduces the chances of shock. For instance, a light-bulb socket has exposed electrical connections, the threads being the most exposed part. But polarized socket threads are attached to the neutral wire to prevent someone from getting a shock when changing a light bulb.

If the electrical outlet itself is mis-wired with reverse polarity, the lamp socket threads described above will become “hot”. If you touch the threads in the socket, or on the bulb as you screw it into the socket, you may get a shock.

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Outlet Not GroundedPillar To Post® inspectors have also discovered outlets with the circular ground holes but with no ground wire connected. In older homes, sometimes the cable leading to the outlet does not have a ground wire, yet the outlet has nonetheless been upgraded to a modern grounded type. Some plug-in electrical devices need this ground connection for their built-in safety features. If the outlet appears to be grounded but is not, the device’s safety features will not work.

Old OutletsIn older homes some outlets may have no ground slot at all. This does not represent a defect or safety concern, but you will not be able to plug in an electrical appliance that has a ground pin on the plug. Today, most plug-in appliances are not the grounded style and, therefore, do not use or have a ground pin on the plug because they are a double insulated design. In these cases, the old ungrounded outlet will work fine.

If you think it might be a good idea to simply cut off the ground pin to accommodate an outlet without a ground hole, think again. This procedure is doubly unsafe because it not only bypasses the grounding safety feature, but also it bypasses the polarizing feature since a de-pinned plug can be inserted into the outlet either way.

Easy to FixAn electrician can fix these outlet problems. Though your outlets may appear as minor considerations in the grand scheme of your home, your understanding and the safe installation of your outlets can prevent serious safety hazards.

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®Lead Based Paint


Older paint contains lead. Over the years, governments have regulated the phasing out of lead in paint entirely. If your house was built before 1960, the paint used during construction would have contained a great deal of lead. Reduction started soon after this and lead paint was completely eliminated by the 1980s. If your house was built before 1978, the paint still likely has some lead in it and the EPA has ruled that after April 2010 all these homes will require special procedures when renovations are performed.

So what’s wrong with lead based paint? Lead is unhealthy if ingested and it is surprisingly easy to ingest. It has a way of finding its way into our diets, particularly into the diets of toddlers. For instance, painted door jambs and window sashes create paint dust during use. For toddlers who spend a great deal of time on their hands and knees, and who ‘test’ the world through their mouths, this dust presents a serious health hazard if it contains lead. The most troubling issue with lead however, is that it can also be absorbed through the skin upon contact.

TestingKnowing if you have lead based paint is half the battle. The paint can be tested on site by a home inspector using EPA approved equipment that can give you instant results. The alternative is to send a sample to a lab for testing. Your home inspector can collect the samples and submit them to an approved laboratory for analysis.

Dealing with Lead Based PaintLiving with lead should not be an option, especially if there are children under the age of six in a home. Constant cleaning and encapsulation may be good temporary measures, but you will be better served to remove the offending coatings, surfaces or components. The only way to be certain about the presence or absence of lead, is by testing, whether by virtually instant onsite methods or samples submitted to an approved laboratory.

Lead Dust

Lead dust at wear surfaces.

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Lead Based Paint

Paint over with 2 coats

of high quality paint

Replace: Wear surfaces can be replaced rather than encapsulated. For example, you can remove and replace door jambs with new wood.

Remove: Where encapsulation or wood replacement is not practical, you can remove the paint using chemical strippers. This task is time consuming and expensive and should only be done by an expert lead abatement contractor since proper containment is essential.

A Few TipsLead poisoning does not happen overnight so do not panicFor peace of mind, you can test your children for lead poisoning with a simple blood test done by your

family physicianHave your home tested for the presence of lead paint by a qualified home inspector using EPA

approved equipmentDo not attempt to remove lead based paint yourself as you may create a much bigger problem by

spreading lead dust around your house

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®Hot Water Heat


A heating system that heats the home by circulating hot water is called a hydronic heating system. The device that does the heating is called a boiler even though it does not actually boil the water. Water picks up heat as it flows through the boiler. Heat is released at the radiators in each room. Cool water flows back to the boiler. A circulating pump keeps things moving. The same water circulates through the system over and over again.

Radiators and ConvectorsUsually a home will have either radiators or baseboard convectors, not both. The traditional radiator is made of cast iron and stands on the floor against a wall. If you have ever lived in an old home in a cold climate, the radiators are what you put your socks, hat and mitts on to dry them out and keep them warm and ready. Since radiators are massive, they heat up slowly and ooze heat into the room over a long period of time. This makes for very even heating, a benefit of hot water heat.

Hot water baseboard convectors look like electric baseboard heaters. They don’t take up as much space as radiators. Modern radiators and convectors come in all shapes and sizes including decorative wall panels and even heated towel racks for the bathroom.

Radiant HeatingIn-floor hot water radiant heat is an alternative to radiators and convectors. Pipes are embedded in the floor and heat energy is radiated into the room. This kind of heat is getting more popular in North America.

Benefits of Hot Water HeatingThere are many benefits to hot water heating. Here are a few:Silent: A properly installed hydronic heating system should be nearly silent throughout the home.Even heat: Since the system heats up slowly and cools slowly, the heating is very even.

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Doesn’t circulate dust: Hydronic heating systems do not stir up dust and blow it around the house. This is healthier and there’s no filter to change.Doesn’t circulate odors: Hot water does not circulate odors like forced air heating does. Easy to create separate zones: Piping is easier to control than air ducting. It is easy to create separate heating zones in the house with separate thermostats.

What’s the Downside?Cooling: One reason hot water heating is not more popular in North America is that air conditioning cannot piggyback on it. The air ducting and blower of a forced air heating system can be used for cooling by adding the cooling components into the forced air heating system. If you have hot water heating, you will have to add independent ducting throughout the home to provide cooling.

More expensive: There are fewer options when it comes to hot water heating. Boilers tend to be more expensive than forced air furnaces. Repairs, modifications and extensions to the system are more expensive too.

Maintenance TipsLeaks should be dealt with promptly. Look for two common leakage points:

Radiator control valves on old cast iron radiators - look where the pipes go into the base of the radiatorPressure relief valve on the boiler – this could indicate a ‘water-logged’ expansion tank or simply a defective valve.

Air gets trapped in the radiators, reducing the amount of heat given off. Most radiators have a bleed valve at the top. Open the valve and let the air hiss out. When you see some water come out, close the valve.

Yearly service on any heating system is a good idea.

Hot water heating accounts for a small percentage of the residential heating systems in North America while the experience is exactly the opposite in Europe. With modern features and people seeking healthier alternatives, hot water heating is now becoming more popular in North America.

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®Fireplaces & Wood Stoves


There is nothing like the ambiance of a wood burning fireplace. But like any heating system, wood burning fireplaces require maintenance to ensure safe and efficient operation. They should be inspected and cleaned every year. This process is not a do-it-yourself job.

Most chimney flues are not readily visible when you look up the chimney. Often, you cannot properly inspect the flue until it has been cleaned. It is important to get your chimney and flue cleaned and inspected every year for a number of reasons, but the two main reasons involve safety. Simply put, get the flue cleaned to avoid a chimney fire. A chimney fire occurs when the combustible deposits in the chimney (creosote) ignite. A chimney fire involves flames shooting out the chimney top, and air roaring up the chimney to feed the fire. It is as loud as it is dangerous! A chimney sweep can remove the creosote deposits that potentially cause fires. Second, have the flue inspected. A flue liner in good condition will help protect your home if you do have a chimney fire. An inspection of the chimney flue is not part of a home inspection. Call a trained technician to clean and inspect your chimney flue.

Old Unlined ChimneysFireplaces in old homes may not have clay flue liners. It is particularly important to seek the advice of an expert for these old chimneys. Unlined brick chimneys come in two varieties: single thickness (four inches of brick), and double thickness (eight inches of brick). There is little debate that a four inch thick, unlined chimney is not acceptable. This chimney should either have a liner added, or the fireplace decommissioned. For chimneys with eight inch brick, conflicting opinions abound. Some believe these are safe as long as the brick and mortar are in good condition, and the flue is cleaned regularly. Others believe

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that double brick flues should also have a liner added. Consider hiring an expert who does not offer a chimney lining service. This will give you an unbiased expert opinion on whether a liner is needed.

Glass DoorsSome fireplaces have glass doors across their opening. The glass doors reduce heat loss when the fireplace is not running. Most glass door systems added to an existing fireplace are not designed to be closed when the fire is lit. On the other hand, some high efficiency zero-clearance fireplaces are designed for operation with the doors closed. If you are not sure, ask the technician who cleans and inspects your fireplace and flue.

Wood StoveA wood stove is more efficient than a fireplace. Modern wood stoves burn wood cleanly and efficiently. Like fireplaces, the wood stove must be cleaned and inspected annually. An expert will check the flue, the hearth and the clearance to combustibles. The clearance to combustibles information is listed on the data tag on the wood stove.

Zero-ClearanceToday, a fireplace can be added to almost any home. A zero-clearance fireplace can be installed directly against an existing wall and supported by the existing floor (a foundation is not required). A good installer is a must for this job.

Tips for All Wood Burning FireplacesDo not burn trash.Do not burn pressure-treated

or painted wood.Burn seasoned hardwood.

Softwood will cause creosote to build up more quickly.

Load the logs near the back of the fireplace.

Use the spark screen.Make sure smoke and CO

detectors are functioning.Have the chimney and

fireplace or wood stove inspected and cleaned annually.

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®Central Air Conditioning


Central air conditioning systems are a luxury in some areas of North America and a basic necessity in others. Whatever your need may be, it is in your best interest to understand how to choose the right system for your home, and how to maintain it for optional use.

Central air conditioning systems have become more sophisticated and more efficient in the last few years. The most common system is called a “split system” because part of it (the condenser) is located outside the house, and part (the evaporator) is located inside. The evaporator is mounted inside an air handler, a blower that circulates air throughout the house. For homes with forced-air heating, the furnace acts as the air handler. In these cases, the evaporator is simply mounted on top of the furnace.

SEERSEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio and designates the efficiency rating of air conditioning systems. A 14 SEER air conditioner is more efficient than a 10 SEER unit. As of January 2006, manufacturers are no longer permitted to manufacture air conditioning systems with a SEER less than 13. Prior to this date, the minimum SEER was 10.

The new 13 SEER regulation does, however, create challenges for some home owners. The system itself is physically much larger than older systems. Since the condenser sits outside, increased size does not matter here, but the evaporator is also much larger on the new systems. If you are replacing a failed older system, the new evaporator may not fit into the old air handler, or even into the space it once occupied. The ducting can be modified to fit the new evaporator, but in some cases the entire air handler (or furnace) may have to be replaced. Other work-arounds also exist, but they are beyond the scope this discussion.

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What Are the Capacity Issues?Proper sizing or capacity of a system is important. Installers traditionally err on the side of over sizing a system to avoid client complaints on the hottest day of the summer, such as the system not keeping up with the heat, or the system running continuously.

A larger-than-necessary air conditioning system will not function optimally. It will cool the house off quickly and then shut off. These short on-cycles are not good for two reasons: Most air conditioning systems take about seven minutes of operation to reach peak efficiency. An

oversized system will operate at a fraction of its rated efficiency, costing more to operate than it should.

The central air conditioning system also dehumidifies the home. If the on-cycles are short, you get little dehumidification. The result is a cold and clammy home.

Choosing the appropriate capacity for the air conditioning system requires a skilled and experienced air conditioning contractor that can do a heat gain calculation for your home. Some of the newest and most expensive systems available are capable of operating at two different capacities. The system operates on low most of the time, with long on-cycles that generate lots of dehumidification. If the system cannot keep up with a heat gain, it switches into a higher gear.

MaintenanceA well-maintained air conditioning system will last longer and cool better than a neglected system. Clean or replace the filter in the air handler regularly, not just for clean air, but also because the

filter protects your heating and cooling equipment. Dust can clog the evaporator coil, reducing the heat transfer, efficiency, and life of the system.

Trim vegetation away from the condenser for free air flow. Do not enclose the condenser with trellis or anything else that might block air flow.

Have the system serviced regularly. Servicing is inexpensive and will increase the life and efficiency of the system. A technician typically cleans the condenser coils and checks the refrigerant pressures, adjusting the refrigerant charge if needed.

Like any system in your home, a central air conditioner will work at its peak efficiency and performance when it is properly fitted for capacity and regularly maintained.

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®Foundation Cracks


There are no perfect houses. Whether you have a new home or one that’s a hundred years old, houses have cracks. Houses shift and settle into position after construction.

Houses will have cracks in either the cosmetic finishes or structural components. Most of these cracks have no structural significance. Some are significant and Pillar To Post home inspectors use every technique to help their clients figure out the difference.

Shrinkage CracksA newly poured, concrete foundation may contain small cracks because concrete shrinks as it cures. Fortunately, a shrinkage crack in a foundation wall is not structurally significant. Here’s how to recognize a shrinkage crack in a poured, concrete foundation:

• The crack will be small, less than 1/8th of an inch wide.• The crack will be vertical.• The crack will not extend up through the structure. The crack is in the foundation wall

only.• Shrinkage cracks usually occur in the middle third of the length of the foundation wall.

If the crack is located towards the end of the length of the foundation wall, it’s probably not a shrinkage crack.

Horizontal Cracks In A Basement Foundation WallThis discussion relates to cracks in the concrete foundation wall for a house with a basement. This is not relevant to slabs on grade or to cracks in walls above grade level.

A horizontal crack in a foundation wall, below grade, which runs the length of the basement, is likely a sign that the foundation is failing under the weight of the surrounding soil. The soil outside the foundation wall exerts an enormous pressure on the foundation wall. Foundation walls are designed to be strong enough to resist this load. Occasionally, unanticipated, additional loads exert pressure and the foundation begins to fail, resulting in a horizontal crack in the foundation wall.

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Settlement CracksFoundation settlement cracks are vertical, extending up through the structure. For a brick home, you may see cracks following the mortar joints in the brick wall. In most cases, the settlement crack itself has no structural significance. Rather, we are concerned that the house could continue to settle over time.

Most settlement cracks are the result of short-term settlement. Ongoing settlement is unlikely and uncommon. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to identify ongoing settlement from a one-time visit to the home. Since multiple visits to the home over a few years is not compatible with a real estate transaction, we have to use our experience to ‘read the cracks’ and take an educated guess as to whether ongoing settlement is likely.

Settlement crack size: A larger settlement crack is more likely to be due to ongoing movement than a smaller settlement crack. While there are no hard and fast rules, a settlement crack or series of settlement cracks that have a sum total opening of less than 1/4 inch are probably not due to ongoing settlement.

Direction of movement: A typical settlement crack is vertical, where the crack opens up. The bumps and crevices line up and fit together like the pieces of a puzzle. If the crack face has moved in any other directions, such as a shear crack, the quarter-inch rule described above does not apply. This can be a significant structural concern.

Repaired and re-cracked: A settlement crack that has been repaired and has re-cracked (not just a hairline crack) also could indicate ongoing movement.

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®Ice Damming


Ice dams are large build-ups of ice found at the bottom edge of the roof. A small amount of ice may not cause an immediate problem, but if the ice continues to build up, it will block the water flow down the roof, causing water to back up under the shingles and leak into the soffit area, or into your house.

Here’s How it HappensIce dams form when

there is a blanket of snow on the roof.

Heat from the attic melts snow above.

Water then runs down the roof between the shingles and the blanket of snow.

When the water reaches the roof overhang (bottom edge of the roof), it encounters an area of the roof that is not getting any heat from the attic so the water freezes.

As this condition progresses, the ice at the bottom edge of the roof becomes thicker until it blocks water flow.

Water backs up and starts to leak into the soffit area and eventually into the home.

The root cause of ice damming is heat from the attic. When you control the heat, you control the ice dam. Here are three ways you can control the heat in the attic: Air seal the attic from the house: recent research indicates that air sealing is

paramount. Air leakage from the house heats up the attic. Not only will this attic heat contribute to ice damming but air leakage will cause condensation on roof decking and framing, leading to rot. Bathroom vents, recessed light fixtures and plumbing stacks are all potential air leakage spots.

Insulate the attic: if the attic insulation is insufficient, upgrade it to reduce the conductive heat transfer into the attic.

Ventilate the attic: proper ventilation and air flow through the attic will help control the attic temperature. Make sure insulation is not blocking vents. Also make sure vents are evenly distributed, with some high on the roof, such as roof-top vents and some lower,

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such as soffit vents. Do not try to improve attic ventilation by adding more roof top vents without adding corresponding lower vents such as soffit vents. Unbalanced venting can actually create negative pressure in the attic, drawing more air leakage from the house into the attic.

Un-Insulated AtticsYou would think that un-insulated attics would generate the worst ice dams. In fact, un-insulated attics tend not to create an ice damming problem because so much heat is lost through the attic that the snow melts as it lands on the roof. A snow blanket has no opportunity to form. Any insulation upgrades to an un-insulated attic must be accompanied by air sealing and ventilating the attic.

Heating CablesIn some cases, the roof configuration may not be conducive to preventing ice dams, leaving only one option: heating cables, often called heat trace. The heating cables prevent ice from building up in the first place, or, at the very least, the cables will melt channels in the ice to allow water to flow off the edge of the roof. The heating cables use a significant amount of electricity and should be considered only if there is no other solution.

If your home has heating cables, you have to turn them on before you have a huge ice dam. Most heating cables do not have enough power to melt and ice dam once it is formed.

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®Garage Door Safety


Your garage vehicle door may be the largest moving object in your home and could weigh up to 400 pounds. For your safety make sure it’s in good condition.

Overhead garage doors have gravity to deal with. In the absence of some type of balancing mechanism, the door would slam shut as soon as you let go of it. Older garage doors may employ a weight and pulley system to balance the weight of the door however virtually all modern systems use springs. Regardless of the method used, the door should balance. If you open the garage door about half way and let go, it should balance there.

Spring failureThe springs used to balance the weight of the door are under enormous stress. If a spring were to break, flying pieces of metal could cause serious injury. Modern spring systems incorporate safety features to prevent flying metal in the event of a spring failure. For example, extension springs should have a cable running down the middle of the spring to contain the spring upon failure.

Automatic openerAutomatic door openers are not a replacement for a properly balanced door. The opener is not powerful enough to lift the entire weight of the door. The opener works with the help of the springs or counter balance system.

An automatic garage door opener should stop and reverse on meeting an obstruction. Many systems manufactured prior to 1982 may stop but not reverse. These older systems should be upgraded. This is not only about protecting your car, it’s about protecting people.

Today, some form of external entrapment protection is required. An electric eye is the most common system used. The electric eye is mounted 5 to 6 inches off the floor and senses

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objects in its path. If your garage door opener does not have an electric eye system, you may be able to upgrade it without replacing the entire system.

Emergency releaseDuring a power failure the garage door may be impossible to open. Since 1982, automatic garage door openers have an emergency release to disengage the garage door from the opener. Once disengaged, you can open the door by hand. Make sure you know where this is and how to operate it. It is usually a short rope hanging from the unit. Pulling the rope disengages the door from the automatic door opening mechanism.

A Few More Pointers on Garage DoorsKeep it in good shape: Your garage door may require periodic lubrication and adjustment. An

overhead garage door that is poorly maintained may pose a threat to your safety. Hiring a garage door expert to inspect and adjust the system is a good idea.

Pinch hazard: Sectional overhead garage doors pose a pinch hazard to fingers. Never put your fingers in the space between door sections to close the door, use the provided handles. Some modern sectional garage doors have a ‘pinch proof’ design.

Security: The remote control for your automatic opener is like a key to your garage. When you move into a home, you should change the remote control settings just as you would change the locks on your doors. If the codes for your automatic opener cannot be changed, it probably also lacks other key safety features of a more modern system. You should consider upgrading.

Educate children: Kids need to know that garage doors are dangerous. Bikes and toys should never be left in the path of the garage door while the door is open. Make sure they know that they should not play with the remote control. Mount the door activation button five feet from the ground, out of reach.

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®Smoke Alarms


Smoke alarms are an incredible success story. Once the concept took hold in the 1970s, it wasn’t long before the fire death rate was cut in half! Now, more than three decades later, most homes have at least one smoke alarm but we still have a problem – the smoke alarms aren’t working! In one quarter of the homes with smoke alarms, the smoke alarms don’t work. The cause is missing, dead or disconnected batteries (National Fire Protection Association). Pillar To Post® would like to encourage you to pay more attention to your smoke alarms.

The two key goals of smoke alarms are –To wake you up. You can’t sense smoke and flame when you are asleep.Early warning. The sooner you know about a fire the better the possible outcome

Placement of Smoke AlarmsWhile you should consult the instructions provided with the smoke alarm, here are some general guidelines. We do not address local bylaws and codes here.There should be at least one smoke alarm per floor including the basement.Smoke alarms should be placed outside every separate sleeping area. Many authorities

suggest an alarm inside each bedroom as well.The alarm can be placed on the ceiling or high up on the wall. If the alarm is on the

ceiling, it should be at least four inches away from any walls. If the alarm is on the wall, it should be at least four inches but not more than twelve inches from the ceiling.

Peaked ceilings have stagnant air at the top. The smoke alarm should be three feet from the highest point.

Do not place the smoke alarm where it could be affected by drafts such as next to a window or air vent.

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MaintainingTest the smoke alarm once per month by pressing the test button until the alarm sounds then release the button. If the smoke alarm is battery operated, replace the battery every year. If you hear a chirping sound from the smoke alarm, change the batteries. Dust or vacuum the surface periodically. Replace the entire unit if it is older than 10 years or if you are not sure how old it is. Print the installation date inside the cover.

False AlarmsNuisance tripping of your smoke alarm is bound to happen occasionally. Unfortunately, many people remove the battery to silence the alarm with the good intention of replacing it after the smoke clears. Here are some better ways to deal with nuisance tripping: Use an alarm with a ‘hush button’. Move the smoke alarm a little further from the kitchen area. Try a different type of alarm. Some experts say that a photoelectric smoke alarm is a little less sensitive to common causes of false alarms.

Hard Wired AlarmsMany homes today have smoke alarms wired right into the household electrical system. In addition, some homes have interconnected smoke alarms. This means if one alarm in the home sounds then the others sound as well.

Escape PlanSmoke and flame can spread quickly so you need to react quickly. It is vital that you and your family know what to do on hearing a smoke alarm. You should plan an escape route from every area of the home and identify a safe area to meet outside the home. You should rehearse the escape plan with your family. Walk through and identify obstacles that may slow you down such as windows that are jammed or exits that are crowded with storage etc.

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®Carbon Monoxide


Carbon monoxide, or CO, a byproduct of incomplete combustion of fossil fuels, is a colorless, odorless gas. Breathing CO reduces the blood’s ability to carry oxygen. In severe cases, CO can cause death.

Defective or malfunctioning fossil fuel appliances, or inappropriate use of appliances that burn fossil fuel close to or inside the home can pose a serious health hazard. Here are a few examples of dangerous operations:

• Runninganautomobileor gas lawn mower inside the garage

• Operatingabarbequeinside the home

• Agasoroilburningfurnacewithablockageinthechimney• Kerosenespaceheaters• Operatingageneratorinthehomeduringapowerfailure

Symptoms of Carbon Monoxide PoisoningSymptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include headache, dizziness, nausea, vomiting, weakness,chestpain,confusion,andlossofconsciousness.Carbonmonoxidepoisoningcanleadtodeath.Lowlevelpoisoningmaygounnoticedbecauseitmaybemistakenforthe flu.

Carbon Monoxide DetectorYou should have at least one carbon monoxide detector in your home. In some geographic areas,aCOdetectorisrequiredbylaw.TheCOdetectorshouldbeplacedwhereyoucanhearitifitgoesoffwhenyouareasleep.ACOdetectordoesnothavetobeplacedontheceiling,sinceunlikesmoke,COhasapproximatelythesameweightasairsoitmixes

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uniformlythroughouttheroomratherthanfloatinguptotheceiling.Toavoidfalsealarms,donotinstallthedetectornexttoheatingandcookingappliances,vents,flues,orchimneys.Makesureyoureadandfollow the operating, placement, and testing instructions that come with the detector.

Ifthecarbonmonoxidedetectoralarms,takeitseriously.

Avoiding CO Poisoning• Haveyourheatingsystemsservicedeveryyearbyaqualifiedtechnician.• Haveyourfireplacechimneycleanedandinspectedeveryyear.• InstallatleastoneCOdetectorinyourhomeandreplacethebatteriestwiceperyear.• Openthegaragedoorpriortostartingyourcar;drivethecaroutpromptly.Donotleaveitidlinginthe

garage. Do not use a remote car starter when the car is in the garage.• Donotuseacharcoalorpropanebarbequeinthehome.

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®GARAGE FIREWALL


When a garage is attached to a house or integrated with the home, special consideration is required with respect to fire and fumes.

FireGarages are a fire concern. In addition to the car, there may be gas powered yard equipment, containers of gas, oil, oil soaked rags and other combustibles. A serious fire can start very easily in a garage. Once started, it can spread to the rest of the house.

Carbon MonoxideCarbon monoxide is bad for your health. In higher doses it can cause headaches, dizziness, nausea, vomiting and ultimately death. Oh, did we mention you can’t see it, it’s odorless, tasteless and flows in abundance from car exhaust. The bottom line is, carbon monoxide gas is very dangerous. Every time you start your car and pull out of the garage, CO is produced. As the driver, you should remember to open the garage vehicle door before starting the car.

Accidental CO poisoning is very common. People are not perfect and sometimes the car is started with the vehicle door closed. The car may be left idling in the garage while the driver is distracted by something in the house. There are many ways to make a mistake.

Protecting the House and PeopleWhen homes are built, measures are taken to -

delay the spread of fire from the garage to the home•to keep structural elements from burning and collapsing•to keep fumes such as carbon monoxide from getting into the house from the garage •

Exactly how this is done differs by jurisdiction. Let’s have a look at some of the measures used to protect single family homes and the people in them.

United States:Garage to house walls:• 1/2 inch gypsum board is required on the garage side of any walls common to the house. The gypsum board will prevent fire from immediately igniting wall studs and spreading to the house.Walls supporting the ceiling:• 1/2 inch gypsum board is also required on both sides of any wall in the garage that supports a ceiling in the garage common to the house.

Wall separating an attached garage from the rest of the home

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Garage ceiling:• For a garage ceiling common to the house, 5/8 Type X gypsum board is required. Type X is a fire resistant gypsum board.Garage door:• The door from the garage into the house must resist the spread of fire. The door must have a 20 minute burn rating or, if it is not specifically rated, it must be a solid door 1 3/8 inch thick. It must not open into an area used for sleeping. Ducting:• There should be no supply or return air registers in the garage. Any ducting that passes through the garage should have no openings in it. Where ducting penetrates the wall from house to garage, the wall should be well sealed to the duct with firestop caulking. The ducting itself must be 26 gauge steel.Floor:• The floor of the garage must be non-combustible.

Canada:In Canada, for single family homes, the requirements are different. Where the garage serves only the dwelling unit to which it is attached, a fire separation is not required. The garage is treated as part of the dwelling unit. There are specific requirements for surfaces that separate the garage from the living area but the requirements revolve around gas-proofing to prevent car exhaust and gas fumes from getting into the home.

The door to the garage must be tight fitting and must be weather stripped to be an effective barrier •against the passage of gases and exhaust fumes.The door to the garage must have a self closing device.•There can be no doorway between the garage and a living space intended for sleeping.•There must be an air barrier system between the garage and the remainder of the building to form an •effective barrier to gas and exhaust fumes.

Discussion of RequirementsIn the last two sections we looked at the requirements for both the United States and Canada. The main point to discuss is that local codes may be very different. For example, many local codes in the United States required 5/8 inch type X drywall for all areas separating the garage from the house. Some municipalities are much more strict than this. Remember that local code trumps national.

Furthermore, practices and requirements have changed over the years. You would not expect a very old house to be built the same way as a new house. Even a house built just a few years ago has different requirements as a home built today.

This Info-Series discusses some of the features that can make a home safer regardless of where you live.

There should be no supply or return air registers in the garage

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®SKYLIGHTS


People are drawn to areas with natural light. What’s more, there is something special about natural light from above, bringing the sky indoors. Skylights can make a dark room bright, provide ventilation and add architectural appeal.

As LightingA skylight can be a problem solver, bringing natural light where it would be difficult or impossible to add a window. Here are some examples -

Inside wall area of a duplex (semi-detached) or a home on a zero lot line.•Natural illumination of a stairway.•Natural lighting where privacy is required such as a bathroom.•Small lots where windows would be looking directly onto a neighbors home.•Where an attic has been renovated into a living area. Some skylights are manufactured •to satisfy attic egress requirements of building codes as well.

As VentilationSkylights can be of fixed design or openable. The openable type can provide natural ventilation. There are also fixed skylights that have a venting option. In these, there is a vent flap that can be opened. Openable skylights are either manual or automatic.

Light ShaftSkylights on cathedral ceilings bring light directly through the roof plane into the living area. Skylights on homes with an attic are a little more complicated. You have to punch a hole through a large attic area. The hole through the attic area is called the light shaft.

The simplest light shaft is a channel that extends straight down from the skylight above. This is the easiest to frame and interferes the least with existing framing. It’s also the least interesting architecturally and brings in the least amount of light. A more interesting design is to flare the light shaft out to bring in more light. The flare can be a simple one sided flare or a more complicated two sided or even four sided flare. The more sides you flare, the more complicated and disruptive the framing.

HeatOne of the most important things to consider for warm climates is that skylights will add considerably to the heat gain and thus the air conditioning load. In hot climates, care should be given to the orientation of the skylight. For example, south or west facing skylights have a much greater heat gain than north or east facing skylights. In addition to

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orientation, choosing the correct skylight for your climate helps. A skylight that is ideal in one climate may be completely wrong in another. There are many options available such as low-e glass and tinted or reflective glass. Your installer should be familiar with the different options and the ratings on the skylight. There are several different parameters that are rated on skylights. For warm climates the SHGC or Solar Heat Gain Coefficient is one of the most important. SHGC represents how much heat from the sun penetrates the skylight. A low tech solution to heat gain is a shade for the skylight.

Different orientations have different light characteristics as well. North facing skylights have steady light levels throughout the day and the light is very soft. East and west facing skylights have varying light levels throughout the day. South facing skylights gives the most light but the light is also very hot and harsh.

InstallationWhen a roof leaks, it leaks at a roof penetration. It does not leak in the middle of a field of shingles or tiles. A skylight is a big roof penetration. As such, a skylight has the potential to leak. The difference between a skylight that leaks and one that does not is a good installer. A good installer knows how to pick a good skylight and knows how to flash the skylight properly so it sheds water.

There two types of skylights commonly used for residential homes. Skylights that have to be mounted on a curb and a skylight that comes with its own curb (integrated curb). The best is the type that mounts on a curb. A curb mount skylight sits up above the roof plane on a wood frame. A curb mount skylight gets flashed just like a chimney. It gets step flashing, head and base flashing. The illustration below shows a curb mount and flashing for a skylight. All that is required is to set the skylight on the curb.

Peel and stick ice and water shield have made skylight installations much more reliable. Most installers use ice and water shield to compliment the skylight flashing for a good water-tight installation in any weather conditions.

Signs of TroubleOnce a skylight is installed, it may be difficult to recognize if the installation was done properly. Here are a few signs that there could be trouble -

Mastic or sealant (roofing tar) has been used to •seal the skylight. Good skylight flashing should shed water and does not require mastic. Mastic on the flashing is a sign of trouble.If a skylight is installed too close to a plumbing •stack or some other roof penetration or intersection (less than 18 inches) it is very difficult to flash properly. Room is needed around the skylight for the flashing components.Moisture or stains on the inside could be •evidence of a leak or could be condensation. Sometimes it’s hard to determine what you are looking at.

This illustration shows a curb mount for a skylight, shown without the skylight for clarity. You can see the step flashing and the apron flashing.

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Visual Property Inspection

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