vinum.in no.7

92
Broj / Edition 7 • Cijena 30 kn / Price 5 € Časopis za kulturu vina Magazine for culture of wine Časopis za kulturu vina Magazine for culture of wine Tema broja Topic of the issue ORGANSKA VINA: Prolazni hir ili val budućnosti? ORGANIC WINES: Fleeting Fad or Wave of the Future? Kako slatka može biti MEDOVINA? How sweet MEAD can be? SHYRAH

description

vinum.in no.7

Transcript of vinum.in no.7

Page 1: vinum.in no.7

Broj / Edition 7 • Cijena 30 kn / Price 5 €

Časopis za kulturu vina Magazine for culture of wine Časopis za kulturu vina Magazine for culture of wine

Tema broja Topic of the issue

ORGANSKA VINA: Prolazni

hir ili val budućnosti?

ORGANIC WINES: Fleeting

Fad or Wave of the Future?

Kako slatka

može biti MEDOVINA?

How sweet MEAD can be?

SHYRAH

Page 2: vinum.in no.7

Prvih 25 godinaVrhunski dizajniran i izrađen nakit i najbolji svjetski brandovi satova, vrh estetskog dosti-gnuća današnjice, ponuda su tvrtke B-Vama, koja već 25 godina teži zadovoljenju ljudske

potrebe za lijepim. Zastupstvo svjetskih renomiranih proizvođača 'šlag je na torti', a vlastita proizvodnja unikatnog nakita, od najjednostavnijega do složenog dijamantnog - njezin je temelj. Iz male je zlatarnice izrasla renomirana tvrtka, s nizom vlastitih trgovina nakitom,

poznata u cijeloj Hrvatskoj, posebice nakon što je njezino zaštitno lice, Nikolina Pišek, bila nositeljica ovogodišnje marketinške kampanje, dok su za promociju satova bili angažira-ni Frano Lasić, Igor Štimac i Slaven Bilić. Pošto je tvrtka B-Vama u splitskoj regiji postala

sinonim za vrhunske proizvode, slijedila je ponuda satova najpoznatijih svjetskih proizvođača poput Cartiera, Breitlinga, Coruma, Movada, Grahama, kuća TAG Heuer, Mont Blanc, Baume

et Mercier, Seiko... Takav razvoj bio je moguć jer je od prošle godine B-Vama autorizirani agent tih kuća, jer je ta splitska kuća uspjela udovoljiti normama svojih principala. Primarna

želja vlasnika jest da splitskom tržištu ponudi najbolje svjetske proizvode u tom segmenetu i time upiše Split na mapu turističkih destinacija kao što su Cannes, St. Tropez ili Monte Carlo

- odnosno da se 'umiješa u konkurenciju' jer se, zbog specifičnih uvjeta principala kad je riječ o uređenju trgovine, servisu i lokaciji, artikli svih navedenih brandova mogu kupiti u Splitu u

jednakim uvjetima i po jednakoj cijeni kao bilo gdje u svijetu. Osim bogate ponude vrhunskih satova, u prodavaonicama B-Vama posebno je zanimljiv nakit što ga ta kuća dizajnira, stilizira

i izrađuje, oblikujući ga vođena činjenicom da se on nasljeđuje. Ustrajnost i velika želja za uspjehom u poslu, te snažna vizija, od iznimne su važnosti za uspjeh ove kuće. Uz vlastiti

proizvodni pogon i kvalitetan kadar, od 2003. godine B-Vama prihvaća i najsmjeliji izazov u zlatarstvu: proizvodnju dijamantnog nakita, koja uključuje najbolje od najboljeg, počevši od

stiliziranja predmeta i ručne obrade zlata, pa do perfektne ugradnje dijamanata.

Their first 25 years For a quarter of a century B-Vama has been satisfying our appetite for beauty with exquisitely designed hand-crafted jewelry. Once a small jewelry shop, the house now offers a number of high-end gold and precious stone designs in several stores across the country. The face of B-Vama is Miss Nikolina Pišek, TV presenter, with products endorsed by singer and actor Frano Lasić and footballers Igor Štimac and Slaven Bilić. In Split B-Vama is authorized distributor of many international brands, including Cartier, Breitling, Corum, Movad, Graham, TAG Heuer, Mont Blanc, Baume et Mercier, Seiko and other, and the owner has stated many a time his ambition is to raise the level of service and quality to that of similar establishments in elite tourist centers like Cannes, St. Tropez or Monte Carlo. B-Vama offers same products like jewelry and watch shops in those cities and at same prices, as well as designs from in-house artists. The house known for perseverance, ambition and vision is also known for friendly and expert staff ready to meet every wish of their clients. Since 2003 B-Vama has been tackling with success the most demanding segment of the jewelry industry, designing and crafting diamond jewelry for ladies and gentlemen.

Page 3: vinum.in no.7
Page 4: vinum.in no.7

Sadržaj / Content IZDAVAČ

PUBLISHER:

Spectator d.o.o

UREDNIK

EDITOR:

Želimir Bašić

IZVRŠNI UREDNIK

EXECUTIVE EDITOR:

Žana Rubić

SURADNICI

ASSOCIATES:

Zvonimir Štimac,

Mladen Ljubljanović,

Marin Bušelić,

Branimir Pulić

FOTOGRAFIJE:

Jadran Babić

E-MAIL:

[email protected]

WEB:

www.vinum.in

TEL

PHONE:

+385 091 22 65 818

FAX:

+385 21 316 899

GRAFIČKA PRIPREMA

PREPRESS:

Nino Tocigl

Časopis za kulturu

vina Vinum in izlazi

tromjesečno. Godišnja

pretplata je 99 kn

(poštarina uključena).

/ The magazine for

wine culture ‘Vinum in’

is published quarterly.

Annual subscription

is 99 Kn (postage

included).

45. SAJAM "VINITALY"U VERONI

OD 7. DO 11. TRAVNJA 2011.

45th "VINITALY" FAIR IN VERONA, 7-11 APRIL 2011 .......................................................................................................6

DESET ENOLOŠKIH TEHNIKA

KOJE SVAKI VINAR TREBA ZNATI

TEN ENOLOGICAL TECHNIQUES THAT EVERY WINEMAKER SHOULD KNOW ........................................................8

SYRAH

SYRAH ......................................................................................................................16

ORGANSKA VINA:

PROLAZNI HIR ILI VAL BUDUĆNOSTI?

ORGANIC WINES: FLEETING FAD OR WAVE OF THE FUTURE? ......................................24

MEDOVINA OD ILIRA DO NAŠIH DANA

MEAD FROM THE ILLYRIANS TO PRESENT DAY ............................40

VINOGRADARSTVO JE POČELO S ILIRIMA

VITICULTURE BEGAN WITH THE ILLYRIANS ....................................46

MEĐUNARODNI FESTIVAL VINA

I KULINARSTVA ODRŽAN U ESPLANADI

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF WINE AND CULINARY ART HELD AT THE ESPLANADE HOTEL ......................54

RESTORAN AUREOLE

RESTAURANT AUREOLE ................................................................................73

PORTO

PORTO ......................................................................................................................82

Page 5: vinum.in no.7

Vinum in ide dalje, i baš svaki put kad netko po-

misli da je posljednji tiskani broj ujedno i za-

dnji, on se ponovo pojavi. Žilavost kao da naš

časopis baštini od dalmatinskog težaka koji je stolje-

ćima u borbi za koricom kruha lozu zalijevao zno-

jem i trudom, a često i krvlju da bi opstojao na ovim

prostorima. Vino i vinogradi su svetinja hrvatskog

čovjeka,kako nekad tako i danas kad se na nekadašnje

zelene površine „sade“ građevine, a vinograde treba

tražiti svijećom.. Primjerice, gdje smo dogurali u be-

tonizaciji Splita, grada koji je nekad bio gotovo naj-

veći vinogradarski centar na prostorima Dalmacije?

U užem dijelu nema više niti jedne površine s lozom.

I onaj zadnji vinograd, nasuprot ulaza u Meštroviće-

vu galeriju, vlasnik je linijom manjeg otpora preorao

i zasadio masline. Kakva tragedija za grad koji je ne-

kad bio perjanica vinogradarstva i čiji su vinogradi

dosezali do Dioklecijanove palače, a do crkve Gospe

od Pojišana se prolazilo isključivo kroz vinograde, bez

ijednog izgrađenog objekta, tek pokojom poljskom

kućicom. Zato su nam trgovine pune uvoznog vina.

Hranimo druge a vlastitu tradiciju zatiremo. Zvoni se

na uzbunu, ali to je zvuk u šumi gluhih. Nedavno je

udruga Vinogradara i vinara Dalmacije poslala Otvo-

reno pismo Vladi tražeći poduzimanje određenih

mjera, da se spasi što se dade spasiti, ali odgovor je bio

u stilu „vi ste upravu, ali to nisu naša posla, obratite se

nadležnima“. Međutim kad su donosili odluke koje su

satrle vinogradarstvo i vinarstvo (zabrana izvoza rin-

fuza vina, zabrana reklamiranja vina, ukidanja stimu-

lacije izvoza itd ) bili su mnogo samouvjereniji.

Tu smo gdje jesmo, ali nadamo se da nismo na sumra-

ku jedne bogate tradicije. Vjerujemo u težaka navi-

knutog na nevolje i njegove žuljevite ruke.

Vaš

Želimir Bašić

Vinum in is going on, and every time when

someone thinks that the last printed number is

the final one at the same time, it appears again.

Toughness of our journal has to be heritage of the

Dalmatian peasants who have watered vine with sweat

and effort fighting for crusty bread for centuries, and

often watered even with the blood to keep the exis-

tence in this region. Wine and vineyards are sacred

for Croatian people, as they were once so they are to-

day, when the former green areas are "planted" with

the buildings, and vineyards have to be searched with

a candle… For example, what we have achieved with

concreting of Split, a city that was once almost the

largest wine-growing center in the region of Dalmatia?

The town center has no more areas with vines any-

more. Even the last vineyard, opposite the entrance to

the Mestrovic Gallery, has been plowed by the owner

who took the line of least resistance and planted olive

trees. It’s a such a tragedy for the city that was once the

flagship of winemaking and whose vineyards reached

to the Diocletian’s palace, and pass to the Church of

‘Gospa od Pojišana’ was exclusively through the vine-

yards, without a single built object, only a few field

shelters. Therefore, our stores are filled with imported

wines. We feed others and obliterate our own tradi-

tion. Alarm is ringing, but it is a sound in the wood

of the deaf people. Recently, Dalmatian association of

growers and winemakers has sent an open letter to the

Government asking them to take certain measures for

saving what is possible to save, but the answer was in

the style of "You are right, but it's not our job, contact

the competent ones." However, when they have made

decisions which squashed the Viticulture and Enology

( the prohibition of export of bulk wine, wine adver-

tising ban, cancellation of export incentives, etc.), they

were much more confident.

Here we are where we are, but hopefully not in the

twilight of a rich tradition. We believe in a peasants

habituated to the trouble and their callous working

hands.

Yours

Želimir Basic

Poštovani čitatelji!Dear readers!

asic

5

Page 6: vinum.in no.7

Jedan od najvećih svjetskih sajmova vina, ‘Vi-

nitaly’ u Veroni, osnovan davne 1966. godi-

ne, ovaj će put po mnogo čemu biti poseban:

osim što je 45-ti po redu, poklapa se sa 150-tom

obljetnicom ujedinjenja Italije.

‘Vinitaly’ je simbol i službeni brend nacionalne

podrške proizvodnji i promociji talijanskih vina,

tako da obuhvaća cijelu paletu izlaganja i doga-

đanja, vezanih uz sve aspekte vinogradarstva i

vinarstva, od poljoprivrede do samih potrošača.

Na zapanjujuće velikom prostoru od 92 000 m2,

ove godine izlaže preko 4000 izlagača, grupiranih

po regijama, tipu vina (crvena, bijela, rose, pje-

nušava, slatko) i proizvođačima, pa će se od 7.do

11. travnja moći degustirati stotine i stotine vr-

hunskih vina (onoliko koliko je fizički moguće!),

upotpunjeno konzumacijom raznih popratnih

delicija kojima ovakve manifestacije obiluju.

Stoga je ‘Vinitaly’ uvijek posebna prilika izlaga-

čima za predstavljanje svojih proizvoda, a vino-

ljupcima za degustaciju kako starih i slavnih vin-

skih imena, tako i novih iznenađenja.

A s obzirom na blizinu centra Verone (7 km),

posjet sajmu je odlična prilika za upoznava-

nje grada u kojem je plamtjela romansa između

Romea i Julije, te za obilazak vinarija i vino-

grada u okolnim područjima kao što su Val-

policella, Soave, Bardolino, Lugana i Custoza.

O svemu se više možete informirati na službenoj

web stranici www.vinitaly.com.

45. sajam "Vinitaly"u Veroni od 7. do 11. travnja 2011.N

ezao

bila

zna

dest

inac

ija is

tinsk

ih v

inol

juba

ca

wewebb

6

Page 7: vinum.in no.7

One of the world’s biggest wine fairs, Vinitaly in Verona, was founded in the distant 1966, and this year’s fair is special for many rea-

sons: apart from being the 45th in row, it also over-laps with the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy.

‘Vinitaly’ is a symbol and the official brand of the national support to the production and marketing of Italian wines, and so it combines a number of lectures and events tied to all aspects of wine grow-ing and winemaking, from agriculture to consum-ers. On a staggeringly large area of 92 000 m2, this year, 4000 participants are exhibiting their prod-ucts, and are grouped according to regions, types of wine (red, white, rosč, sparkling wines, sweat wines) and manufacturers, and so from 7-11 of April hundreds and hundreds of top quality wines will be available for tasting (as much as it is human-ly possible!), together with various delicacies which can be found in abundance during these kinds of events.

Therefore, ‘Vinitaly’ presents a unique opportunity for all the participants to present their products, and for wine lovers to taste both old and famous wines as well as some new surprises. And consid-ering the vicinity of the center of Verona (7 km), a visit to the fair is also a chance to see the city where Romeo and Juliet had their fiery romance, and to make a tour of the vineries and vineyards in the surrounding area, such as Valpolicella, Soave, Bar-dolino, Lugana and Custoza. You can learn more on the official website www.vinitaly.com

45th "Vinitaly"fair

in Verona, 7-11 April 2011 A

mu

st s

ee e

ven

t for

eve

ry w

ine

love

r

7

Page 8: vinum.in no.7

8

Page 9: vinum.in no.7

Uberite najbolje grožđe,

iscjedite najljepši sok

Stara izreka, da se vino radi u vinogradu, je ne-

pogrešiva. Bez odličnog grožđa nema velikog

vina, a uz prosječno grožđe, uz sva znanja i vje-

štine ne može se napravati veliko vino.

Osim što mora zadovoljavati tehnološke parame-

tre (šećeri, kiseline, pH ), grožđe mora izgledati

perfektno zdravo, bez gnjileži i plijesni. Grožđe

treba brati u hladnijem dijelu dana (noć i rano

jutro), da bi imali što nižu ulaznu temperatu-

ru grožđa u podrum. Pri višim temperaturama

grožđa dolazi do većeg otapanja gorkih tvari iz

pokožice u mošt, što posebno treba izbjegavati

kod bijelih sorti.

Nije poželjan veliki udio suhvica u grožđu zbog

problema u fermentaciji (zaustavljena fermenta-

cija vina s ostatkom neprovrela šećera je mikro-

biološki nestabilna, povišene su hlapive kiseline),

kao i nepoželjnog aromatskog profila vina s pre-

velikim udjelom aroma ukuhanog i prosušenog

voća, a gubitkom aroma svježeg voća.

Poželjno je izbjegavati grožđe s velikim bobica-

ma u sortama grožđa s prirodno malom veliči-

nom bobice ( plavac, merlot...). Veličina bobice

je znak velike količine vode u grožđu, koja će

razrijediti koncentraciju šećera, kiselina, boje(u

crvenim vinima), arome i okusa. Mala bobica

dati će manje vina, ali će ono biti puno bogatije

i koncentriranije.

Pick the best grapes,

squeeze the finest juice

An old saying that wine is made in a vineyard,

tells the truth. Without excellent grapes there can

be no great wine, and average grapes cannot be-

come a great wine despite all the knowledge and

skills invested.

Grapes should not only meet technological pa-

rameters (sugars, acids, pH), but they should

also look perfectly healthy, with no signs of rot or

mold. Grapes should be picked during the colder

part of the day (at night or early in the morning)

in order to achieve the lowest possible tempera-

ture prior to being stored in the wine cellar. At

higher temperatures, there is an increase in the

dissolution of the bitter substances from the epi-

dermis into the must, which should be especially

avoided with white grapes.

A large amount of dried grapes in grapes is unde-

sirable due to the problems in fermentation (the

stopped wine fermentation with the rest of the

unfermented sugar is microbiologically unstable,

evaporable acids are increased) as well as the fact

that it produces a disagreeable wine profile with

too much aroma from cooked and dried fruit in-

stead of fresh fruit.

It is advisable to avoid grapes with big berries

when it comes to varieties that have naturally

small grapes (plavac, merlot…). A big grape indi-

cates a large amount of water in grapes, which will

dilute the concentration of sugar, acids, colour (in

red wines), aroma and flavor. A small grape will

give less wine, but it will be fuller and richer.

Deset enoloških tehnika koje svaki vinar treba znati

Ten

en

olo

gic

al t

ech

niq

ues

th

at e

very

win

ema

ker

sho

uld

kn

ow

Piše: / Written by: Marin Bušelić, dr.med

9

Page 10: vinum.in no.7

Krvarenje - saignee

Krvarenje (saignee) je postupak kojim povećava-

mo boju, arome, okuse i naglašavamo punoću i

tijelo u crvenim vinima.

Neposredno nakon muljanja grožđa otočimo 10-

20% mošta, ovisno o željenom stilu vina. Tim

će manja količina mošta macerirati s istom ko-

ličinom kožica, te će se tim povećati ekstrakcija

antocijana, tanina, polifenola i okusnih kompo-

nenti iz pokožice.

Otočeni mošt možemo vinificirati kao bijelo

vino, ili ga ostaviti da macerira šest do dvanaest

sati na kožicama (ovisno o željenoj boji), pa po-

tom otočiti i vinificirati kao rose vino.

Bleeding-saignee

Bleeding (saignee) is a process through which we

increase colour, bouquet and flavours and accen-

tuate the fullness and body in red wines.

Immediately after the crushing of grapes, be-

tween 10-20% of must is drained, depending on

the desired style of the wine. This process will

ensure that a lesser amount of must is macer-

ated with the same amount of skins, which will

increase the extraction of anthocyanins, tannin,

polyphenol and flavor components from the epi-

dermis.

The drained must can be turned into white

wine or it can be left to macerate for six to

twelve hours on skins (depending on the desired

colour), and then drained and made into a rosč.

Fermentation with

more types of yeast

The most rewarding moment in the production

of wine is fermentation, when the grape juice,

in contact with different types of yeast, produc-

es the most beautiful sounds and aromas. Each

10

Page 11: vinum.in no.7

Fermentacija s

više vrsta kvasaca

Najljepši trenutak u proizvodnji vina je fermen-

tacija, kad grožđani sok, u kontaktu s kvascima,

stvara najljepše zvukove i arome. Svaki soj kvas-

ca daje različit aromatski profil u vinu i svaka

sorta grožđa preferira određeni soj kvasca.

Fermentacija s više vrsta kvasaca dati će kom-

pleksnije mirise i arome, vino će biti slojevitije.

Pokušajte odvojeno fermentirati mošt s više so-

jeva kvasca (poželjno je najmanje tri soja, od ko-

jih će jedan biti prirodni kvasac koji se nalazi na

pokožici grožđa), te nakon što vina prođu kroz

proces zrenja, radite različite kombinacije. Re-

zultati će vas ugodno iznenaditi.

Korištenje hrane i enzima

Kvasci zahtijevaju hranu, posebno u moštovima

u kojima postoji nedostatak hranjivih tvari (mo-

štovima s visokom koncentracijom šećera, pre-

bistreni moštovi, moštovi tretirani bentonitom i

moštgelatinom).

Postoje tri tipa hrane za kvasce:

1) Hrana koja se dodaje

za vrijeme rehidracije kvasca

To su inaktivni kvasci obogaćeni sterolima, poli-

nezasićenim masnim kiselinama, mikroelemen-

tima, vitaminima ali bez anorganskog dušika.

To povećava otpornost kvasca na nepovolj-

ne uvjete u moštu (osmotski šok zbog visokog

osmotskog tlaka, temperaturni šok pri niskim

temperaturama mošta, fermentacija na jako ni-

skim temperaturama, nagle promjene tempera-

ture u fermentaciji).

2) Kompleksna hrana za kvasce koja se dodaje za

vrijeme inokulacije kvasca u mošt, te nakon prve

trećine fermentacije

Ona sadrži anorganski i organski dušik, vitami-

ne, minerale i inaktivne kvasce.Dušik je potre-

ban za sintezu proteina u stanici kvasca,steroli i

polinezasićene masne kiseline povećavaju otpor-

nost membrane na alkohole i održavaju urednu

propusnost membrane kvasca, te time omoguću-

ju pravilan rad kvasca. Inaktivni kvasci apsorbi-

raju kratkolančane masne kiseline koje su toksič-

ne za kvasce.

3) Prirodni derivati kvasca - inaktivni kvasci koji

se dodaju u mošt i vino

Ti inaktivni kvasci su proizvedeni u momen-

tu kad su bili pri kraju razmnožavanja i kad su

jj

pookookožižžiciciii g ggrororrr žđžđđžžđžđa)aa)a)a)a)a), , , tetetetetete nnnnnnakakakakakak nnonononono

prp ococesess zreeenjnjaaa rrrradaddadadada ititititi e e raraaarazlzlzlzlzlzlzlzličičičičičičičičičitititititititi e eee eeeee kokokokokokokokommm

enanaanananadidididididdiiditititittttiti.....

mmmaaaa a aa aa

gggg

kimimmmimimimm

kkkko o ooo nniin

ene t tttememememp

nini m mošošštotoviivi, , momomomooštštoostrereeen

gegellmomm šttgggg

ceeeee:::

aanana

jeiiijjjjj

inin ninininiiuu

ćećen mmam

aamimiminnin aanononorr

tpor

te

skkimim t t

fferermmem ntt j

n

rorodndni i deded ririvavatiti k kvavascscca ininakakktitivnv i i kvkvasasas icicii k kk kkkojojojoojoji ii3)3) PPririrr

dajuu u u momoštšt i i v vvinini oodd

ermentacija s

še vrsta kvas

ooooodndndndndndndnnjjjj

t k, , , u uu u uu uu kokkkkkkk

stvaaararaa j vvuvv kokokokoveveveveveveeveee iii

zllllzlzlzliččičččitiititt

j

pp

skki i i ororgagansns

iinanaktkttii e DuDuDuD šš

zuzu p asscc

eenen aajujuu

rrraa u uuuu

mmm mmmmooo

aad d . aapppp

nene kkkisiselelini e

aa kohoho ii o

ranana ass tt

. I vn

čaaneen m e k kisi u u ttt

iivnvnvniii

k, , vv

jjj tttre---

caca ooooll iii

strain of yeast gives a different aromatic profile

to a wine and every grape variety prefers a spe-

cific type of yeast.

Fermentation with more types of yeast will pro-

duce more complex scents and aromas, and the

wine will have more layers.

Try to ferment separately the must with different

strains of yeast (preferably at least three strains,

out of which one will be the natural yeast from

the epidermis of grapes), and after the wines go

through the process of fermentation, try differ-

ent combinations. You will be pleasantly sur-

prised with the results.

The use of food and e nzymes

Yeast require nutrition, especially when it comes

to musts which lack nutritious substances (musts

with high concentration of sugar, clarified must,

musts treated with bentonite and gelatin).

There are three types of nutrition for yeast:

1) Nutrition that is given during the

rehydration of yeast

These are inactive types of yeast enriched with

sterols, polyunsaturated fatty acids, microele-

ments, vitamins but with no inorganic nitrogen.

This increases the resilience of yeast to unfavor-

able conditions in the must (the osmotic shock

due to high osmotic pressure, temperature shock

due to low temperatures of the must, fermen-

tation in extremely low temperatures, sudden

changes in temperature during fermentation).

2) Complex nutrition for yeast that is added du-

ring the inoculation of yeast into must, and after

the first third of fermentation

It contains both inorganic and organic nitrogen,

vitamins, minerals and inactive yeast. The nitro-

gen is needed for the synthesis of proteins in the

cells of the yeast, sterols and polyunsaturated fat-

ty acids increase the resilience of membrane to

alcohols and maintain an orderly porosity of the

yeast membrane, enabling the normal function

of the yeast. Inactive yeast absorb short-chain

fatty acids that are toxic to yeast.

3) The natural derivatives of yeast – inactive yeast

that is added into the must and wine

The inactive yeast are produced in the moment

when they are at the end of their process of mul-

tiplication when their polysaccharides are much

more reactive than during autolysis. They have

antioxidant capacities, a lot less SO2 is needed

in the must and wine, and the free SO2 is more

stable. They give the wine the stability of aroma,

11

Page 12: vinum.in no.7

njihovi polisaharidi puno više reaktivni nego za

vrijeme autolize.

Oni imaju antioksidativna svojstva, potrebno je

manje ukupnog SO2 u moštu i vinu, stabilniji je

slobodni SO2. Vinima daju stabilnost arome,

punoću, zaokruženost, volumen, potencijal od-

ležavanja.

Ne zamjenjuju klasičnu ishranu za kvasce tije-

kom alkoholne fermentacije.

Enzimi

U tehnologiji bijelih vina, pektolitički enzimi

koriste se za bistrenje moštova razgrađujući pek-

tine, koji se nalaze u pokožici grožđa, dok kod

maceracije bijelog grožđa s pokožicom daju više

samotoka, a vina su intezivnijih i stabilnijih aro-

ma. Također su korisni radi toplinske stabilnosti

vina na termolabilne proteine.

U tehnologiji crvenih vina, enzimi za vrijeme

maceracije povećavaju ekstrakciju polifenola,

antocijana i prekursora aroma, te time pojačava-

ju stabilnost boje i tanina.

Delestage

Tehnika koja se koristi za vrijeme maceracije

i fermentacije crnog grožđa, u kojoj se mošt u

vrenju oksigenira, te dolazi do nježnijeg ekstra-

hiranja fenola iz grožđa. Rezultat toga su mekša,

manje tanična vina, s izraženim voćnim karak-

terom, stabilnijom bojom, te time i spremna za

duže odležavanje.

U svijetu se za ovu tehniku koristi izraz „rack

and return“ (pretoči i vrati), jer je potrebno oto-

čiti kompletni mošt u fermentaciji u drugu po-

sudu, te ga potom opet vratiti na kožice u fer-

mentaciji. Delestage se izvodi nakon formiranja

klobuka u fermentaciji, tj. kad se stvori dovoljna

količina CO2, koji pod tlakom diže kožice na

površinu mošta.

Da bi provodili ovaj postupak, potrebno je ima-

ti tri posude: prva u kojoj se odvija fermentaci-

ja, međuposuda u koju istačemo i zračimo mošt

i treća posuda u kojoj će mošt biti ostavljen da

fermentira bez kožica.

Kad ste osigurali potrebne posude, startamo sa

pretakanjem mošta otvaranjem ispusta na dnu

prve posude. Mošt slobodno pada u međupo-

sudu, te se time zrači i oksigenira, a zatim ga

prebacujemo u treću posudu da fermentira bez

kožica. Klobuk se lagano spušta prema dnu prve

posude i osobito je važno da se kompletni mošt

ispod kožica ocijedi. Taj proces može trajati je-

dan do dva sata, ovisno o količini mošta.

Na kraju postupka potrebno je odvojiti sve sje-

fullness, roundness, body and ageing potential.

They do not replace the classic nutrition for

yeast during the alcoholic fermentation.

Enzymes

In the production of white wine, pectolitic en-

zymes are used for must clarification by dissolv-

ing pectins which can be found in grape epider-

mis, whereas during the maceration of white

grapes with epidermis, they provide more free-

run wine, and wines have more intensive and

stable aromas. They are also useful for thermal

stability of wine to thermolabile proteins. In the

production of red wine, enzymes increase the

extraction of polyphenols, anthocyanins and

aroma precursors during maceration, thereby

enhancing the stability of colour and tannin.

Delestage

A technique used during maceration and fer-

mentation of red grapes by means of which fer-

menting wine oxygenates, which leads to the

gentler extraction of phenols from grapes. The

result is softer, less tannic wine with enhanced

fruity character and more stable colour, which is,

therefore, prepared for longer aging.

In the world, this technique is called "rack and

return" because one has to rack off entire fer-

menting must in another container, and then

return it to the fermenting skin. Delestage is per-

formed after the formation of cone in fermenta-

tion, i.e. when the sufficient amount of CO2 is

produced, which lifts the skin under pressure

onto the surface of must.

To carry out this procedure, it is necessary to

have three containers: one in which the fermen-

tation takes place, intermediate in which must

is racked off and aired, and a third container in

which must is left to ferment without skin.

When you have secured the necessary pots, you

begin with racking off must through the opening

at the bottom of the first container. Must freely

pours out in the intermediate, thus becoming

aired and oxygenated, and then you put it into

the third container to ferment without skin. The

cone slightly descends towards the bottom of the

first container, and it is very important to drain

off the entire must under the skin. This process

may take one to two hours, depending on the

amount of must.

At the end of the procedure, it is necessary to

separate all the seeds that fell in the intermedi-

ate, to avoid the influence of harsh tannins in-

side them. The most important thing is to drain

12

Page 13: vinum.in no.7

menke koje su pale u međuposudu, da izbjegne-

mo utjecaj oštrih tanina koji se nalaze u njima.

Najvažnije je da se posljedna frakcija mošta, koja

se nalazi neposredno ispod klobuka, ocijedi jer

je ona najzasićenija taninima, koji će se oksigeni-

ranjem vezati u polimere te postati mekši, obliji

te će finije puniti usta.

Nakon što smo ostavili mošt da fermentira bez

kožica, ponovno ga vraćamo u prvu posudu sa

masuljem pomoću nježne visoko volumne pum-

pe, te kompletno potapamo klobuk koji se sada

s dna posude, pod utjecajem CO2, diže prema

vrhu. Za vrijeme putovanja klobuka kroz mošt

prema vrhu posude, dolazi do difuzije antoci-

jana i voćnih estera u mošt, dok je ekstrakcija

oštrih tanina svedena na minimum. Postupak

se ponavlja jedan do dva puta dnevno do kraja

fermentcije. Kako fermentacija napreduje, velika

većina sjemenki oslobođena je iz bobice grožđa,

koje se sada mogu ukloniti za vrijeme svakog de-

lestage-a.

Vina dobivena ovim postupkom imaju nježnije

tanine, skraćuje se period odležavanja vina radi

smekšavanja tanina, te vina imaju izraženu voć-

nost s finijim taninima koji daju mekoću u usti-

ma.

Nastavak u sljedećem broju

, ponooon vnvnvno o oo gagagaga vvraraćaćaćać momomo uu u u pppprvrvu poopp sus dududu s ssa aa

masuljem pomoćoćoćuu u njnjnjjjježeeee nene vvisisisi okokokokoooo vovvv luuuumnne e pupum-mm

pe, te kkom let am saddda

vanja taaaninanana, te vininini aaa a imimimmajajajuuu

ost s finij ima mmemem kokokokoćućuću

ma

uuuu p p p

vovoooluuu

kkkojojoj

j ižžže eee

mmme njja rozozoz

pppp , dol doodo aaaa

nihh rarr ooo dddd tstttrrr

nnnaaa den nann innn . Poooos

jejeje oo dddvavaaav pppu o ddd d

Kako edududuu

ki osososlob jjje iziziz bb b bobbb

kl nininitititi za

o aja aaa

uuuuuj , liika

ccceeee žžžđađđđđ

akako

off the last part of must, which is located directly

underneath the cone, because it is saturated the

most with tannins which will combine to form

polymers in the process of oxygenation and,

thus, become more round and soft, as well as

taste better.

After you left must to ferment without skins,

once again you return it to the first container

with marc using a gentle high volume pump,

and you completely immerse the cone that now

rises from the bottom of the container to the top

due to CO2. During the rise of the cone through

must towards the top of the container, the dif-

fusion of anthocyanins and fruit esters in must

takes place, while the extraction of harsh tan-

nins is reduced to a minimum. The procedure

is repeated once or twice a day until the end of

fermentation. As fermentation progresses, the

vast majority of seeds have been released from

the grape, and can now be removed during every

delestage.

Wines produced using this method have more

gentle tannins, the period of wine aging to soften

the tannin is shortened, and wines are character-

ized by enhanced fruit flavor with fine tannins

which give softness in the mouth.

To be continued in the next edition

13

Page 14: vinum.in no.7

CHARDONNAY AUREUS 2009. OSVOJIO SREBRO NA CHARDONNAY DU MONDE 2011.

Na 18. međunarodnom ocjenjivanju najboljih Chardonnay-a svijeta

„Chardonnay du Monde“ održanom od 9. do 12. ožujka u Château des Ravatys

Burgundija – Francuska, Chardonnay Kutjevo berbe 2009.

osvojio je srebrnu medalju u konkurenciji 914 uzoraka iz 38

zemalja. Poslije 4 dana ocjenjivanja komisija je nagradila

305 vina ili trećinu od 914 prijavljenih uzoraka, a podijeljeno

je 53 zlatnih, 187 srebrnih i 65 brončanih medalja. Iz

višegodišnjeg iskustva sudjelovanja i osvojenih nagrada na

ocjenjivanju vina Chardonnay du Monde (zlato u 2010.,

srebro u 2009.), uočavamo da je svjetski trend ka lakšim i

svježijim Chardonnay-ima, neopterećenih

presnažnim utjecajem barrique-a.

Nagrađeni Chardonnay 2009., iz linije

Aureus, vino je žutozelene kristalno bistre boje, voćnih

aroma i alkohola 14,4 % sa 12 mjeseci dozrijevanja u

barrique bačvici nježnih tanina. Tako je nagrađeni Chardonnay zadržao visoku

pitkost i svježinu, te postao obogaćen taninima, karamelnim notama i

egzotičnim voćima na narančinu koru.

Page 15: vinum.in no.7
Page 16: vinum.in no.7

Nijedna vinska sorta nije izvršila takvu ek-

spanziju posljednjih godina na svjetske

i naše vinogr ade kao crni syrah. Dugo

se za ovu sortu nije znalo, jer je u većini vino-

gradarsko-vinarskih zemalja bila zapostavljena.

Krajem 20. stoljeća, Syrah se vraća u vinograde u

kojima je obitavao i u prošlosti, a počinje se sadi-

ti i na novim površinama. Kako znamo da se radi

o staroj sorti, dobiva se utisak da je Syrah poput

dobrog duha bio zatvoren u boci i sada se oslo-

bodio, pa je svugdje prisutan. Tako ta nepoznata

sorta sada doživljava hvalospjeve i vinogradari je

i masovno sade.

Među prvim nasadima syraha u Hrvatskoj su oni

u okolici Benkovca. O okviru Sabatine 2004, su-

dionici su obilazili površine na području Korlat,

gdje su bili pripremni radovi za sadnju. Bilo je

onih koji su se, gledajući suri kamenjar, divili po-

duhvatu, ali i onih koji su bili skeptični u uspjeh

sadnje loze u tom kršu. Posebno je iznenađenje

bilo kad se čulo da će se saditi neka sorta zvana

syrah, za koju mnogi tada nisu ni čuli. Međutim,

kada je potom prezentirano vino, punjeno isklju-

čivo za tu prigodu sa prvih nasada syraha drugih

površina, led nepovjerenja se okopnio. Bilo je to

snažno, puno, vatreno vino sa izraženom voć-

nom aromom, pomalo divljom ali ne toliko da se

ne svidi.

Danas je sumnja potpuno otklonjena, pa ga vi-

nogradari u Dalmaciji masovno sade, i to ne

samo na plantažnim vinogradima već u kraškim

poljima. Sade ga i oni koji su uvijek robovali tra-

diciji i vjerovali samo izvornim sortama krša.

Posebno je tražen u Ravnim Kotarima i zadar-

skom zaleđu, ali gotovo da nema vinogorja gdje

se ne sadi.

Pa da vidimo od kuda se ova sorta ušuljala u

naše vinograde. Dugo vremena se tvrdilo da je

to francuska sorta jer syrah ima dugu povijest u

dolini Rhône u jugoistočnoj Francuskoj, a onda

je ta teza poljuljana mogućnošću da je donesena

sa Srednjeg istoka. Naime, jedan od njegovih

mnogih sinonima je i Shiraz, što se povezalo s

istoimenim gradom, jednim od većih u Iranu,

koji ima dugu prošlost a poznat je po pjesnicima,

cvijeću i vinu. Spajajući ove činjenice, izgradila

se teza da ova sorta potječe upravo iz perzijskog

grada Shyraza, te da je prenesen u Francusku

gdje dobiva lokalni sinonim syrah. Dakle prema

ovim tvrdnjama porijeklo syraha je stara Perzija

odnosno područje današnjeg Irana.

Razvile su se i dvije pretpostavke kako je sorta

syrah prenesena iz Shiraza do Francuske. U jed-

noj stanovnici grčkog grada Phocaeae donijeli

su syrah u svoju koloniju, osnovanu oko 600. go-

dine prije Krista u okolici Marseilles. Po drugoj

verziji, ovu je sortu iz perzijskog grada Shiraza

u Rhônu donio križar Gasparol de Sterinberg,

Syra

hD

obri

duh

iz b

oce

Piš

e: /

Wri

tten

by

: Žel

imir

Baš

uu R

16

Page 17: vinum.in no.7

No wine variety has achieved such an ex-pansion over the last few years in both the international and domestic vineyards as

black syrah. The variety, neglected in the major-ity of winemaking countries, was unknown for a long time. At the end of the 20th century, Syrah re-turns to vineyards that it inhabited in the past and is starting to be planted in new areas as well. Since we know Syrah to be an ancient variety, we are left with the impression that Syrah was trapped in a bottle like a good genie and is now finally released and omnipresent. And thus this unknown variety is now celebrated and winemakers are planting it again and on a mass scale. Among the first plan-tations of syrah in Croatia are those from the sur-rounding area of Benkovac. During 2004 Sabatina, the participants made a tour of the area of Korlat, where preparations for planting were underway. There were those who, while observing the dry and rocky ground, expressed their admiration for the undertaking, but there were also those who were skeptical about the success of wine growing on such a rocky soil. Especially surprising was the fact that a variety known as syrah would be planted there, as many participants had never even heard of it. How-ever, when the wine was presented (made from the first syrah grapes grown in other areas), bottled es-pecially for the occasion, skepticism soon melted. It was a powerful, full, fiery wine of a strong fruity aroma, somewhat wild but not too much to not be likable. There are no more doubts today and thus the winemakers from Dalmatia are growing it on a mass scale, not only in plantation vineyards but in Karst valleys as well. It is being planted even by those who were always slaves to tradition and who believed only in the original Karst varieties. It is especially popular in Ravni Kotari and in the hin-terland of Zadar, but it is actually difficult to find a wine-growing area with no syrah. So let us take a look at the origin of this variety and how it sneaked its way into our vineyards. It was argued for a long time that syrah was a French variety because of the long history of syrah grape growing in the valley of Rhône in southeast France, and then this hypoth-esis was shaken by a possibility that syrah came from the Middle East. Namely, one of its many synonyms is also Shiraz, a name it shares with one of the larger cities in Iran, which has a long his-tory and is known for its poets, flowers and wine. Based on these facts a new hypothesis emerged which claimed that this variety originated from the Persian city of Shyraz, and that it was brought to France where it acquired the local synonym syrah. So according to these claims, syrah originates from the old Persian Empire, today’s Iran.

Two theories as to how the syrah variety came from Shiraz to France were developed as well. One says that the inhabitants of the Greek city of Phocaeae brought syrah to their colony, founded around 600 BC in the surrounding area of Marseilles. Accord-ing to the other theory, the variety was brought from the Persian city of Shiraz to Rhône by a cru-A

goo

d ge

nie

in a

bot

tle

ru-

17

Page 18: vinum.in no.7

kada se vraćao iz svete zemlje. Ove postavke

imaju nekoliko slabih točaka, iako su ih mnogi

stručnjaci upisali u svoj radovima, ističući da

je izvorno podrijetlo syraha Iran. Godine 1999.

istraživačka grupa Carole Meredith u Zavodu za

vinogradarstvo i enologiju na Sveučilištu u Ka-

liforniji provela je istraživanje genetike syrah.

Koristeći DNA analizu i baze podataka stanice

za istraživanje vinogradarstva u Montpellieru u

Francuskoj, zaključeno je da je Syrah potomak

rijetke francuske crne sorte dureza (otac) i bijele

sorte savoy mendeuse blanche (majka) iz pokraji-

ne Savoy. Na temelju ovih istraživanja neospor-

no je da syrah potječe iz Francuske, točnije sje-

verne Rhône, pa su time sve druge pretpostavke

o porijeklu ove sorte odbačene.

Danas se syrah sadi širom svijeta, ima ga u go-

tovo svim vinorodnim zemljama Europe te Ar-

gentini, Čileu i većini SAD-a, a nalazi se i u

Australiji, Novom Zelandu, Južnoj Africi i

Kanadi. No, ova je sorta poznata i pod mnogim

drugim nazivima u raznim dijelovima svijeta:

Antourenein Noir, Balsamina, Cardive, Entourne-

rein, Higninn Noir, Mar sanne Noir, Schiras, Sirac,

Sira, Syrac, Serine, Sereine.

Međutim neovisno pod kojim sinonimom se

poslužuje, ono ima svoj prepoznatljiv i osebu-

jan buke i aromu. Prema Pravilniku o priznatim

kultivarima u Hrvatskoj, syrah je naveden među

preporučene sorte vinove loze u podregijama

Istre, Hrvatskog primorja, Sjeverne Dalmacije

i Dalmatinske zagore te u podregiji Slavoniji.

Najviše se uzgaja u vinogorjima Benkovca i u

Nadinu, ali prihvaća se postepeno i u drugim vi-

nogradarskim regijama.

Vina proizvedena od sorte grožđa syrah su ose-

bujna. Iako karakteristike ovise o području gdje

se uzgaja, najčešće ga karakterizira punoća okusa

i izražena vatrena aroma karakteristična za sortu.

U njegovoj aromi možemo otkriti razno grimi-

zno voće kao crni ribiz, višnje, šljive i borovnica.

Ovisno o aromi često varira i boja vina, obično

od iznimno tamne do rubinski crvene.

Nedavno je tvrtka Badel 1862 koja ima vinariju

u Benkovcu predstavila Korlat-Syrah (uz Caber-

net Sauvignon i Merlot) iz „kamenih vinograda“,

sa istoimenog područja nedaleko Nadina kraj

Benkovca. To su bila prva vina iz goleti Korlata,

gdje je na oko 100 hektara krša, koji ima najvišu

točku na 300-tinjak metara nad morem i poput

tanjura je cijeli okrenut prema moru, zasađeno

550 000 loznih cjepiva. Vrijednost investicije od

pripremnih radova do prve komercijalne berbe

iznosi oko 30,5 milijuna kuna. Vino je izazvalo

zanimanje vinoljubaca, ne samo po originalnoj

etiketi koja je dobila prestižnu nagradu Muzeja

dizajna iz Essena, već po izuzetnoj kvaliteti i pri-

vlačnom bukeu. vlav

18

Page 19: vinum.in no.7

sader named Gasparol de Sterinberg, on his return from the Holy Land. These theories have some weak spots, although many experts mentioned them in their works, pointing out at that Syrah came from Iran. In 1999, Carole Meredith’s re-search group from the Department of Viticulture and Enology of University of California conducted research on the genetics of syrah. Using DNA anal-ysis and data from the viticultural research center in Montpellier, France, it was concluded that Syrah descends from a rare French red wine durez (the father) and a white variety called savoy mendeuse blanche (the mother), from the province of Savoy. Based on this research it is undisputable that syrah comes from France, more precisely from the area of north Rhône, and with this all the other theories about the origin of syrah have been discarded. To-day, syrah is being grown all over the world and it can be found in almost every winegrowing coun-try in Europe and also in Argentina, Chile and in most of the USA, it is also grown in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Canada. But this variety is also known under many other names in different parts of the world: Antourenein Noir, Balsamina, Cardive, Entournerein, Higninn Noir, Mar sanne Noir, Schiras, Sirac, Sira, Syrac, Serine, Sereine. However, regardless of the name it is served under, syrah has its own recognizable and specific bou-quet and aroma. In the Rulebook of recognized winegrowers in Croatia, syrah is listed amongst the recommended grape varieties in Istra, the costal region of Primorje, northern Dalmatia and Dalma-tian zagora and also in Slavonia.

It is mainly grown in the wine-growing areas of Benkovac and Nadin, but is being gradually ac-cepted in other wine-growing areas as well. Wines manufactured from the grape variety of syrah are very distinctive. Although the characteristics de-pend on the area where the grapes are grown, it is mostly characterized by a full flavor and a pro-nounced fiery aroma peculiar to this variety. Syrah’s aroma reveals various crimson types of fruit such as blackcurrants, cherries, plums and whortleberries. Depending on the aroma, the color of wine varies as well, usually ranging from very dark to ruby red. Recently, Badel 1862 beverage company that has a winery in Benkovac presented Korlat-Syrah (along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) from stone “vineyards”, from the area that carries the same name in vicinity of Nadin, near Benkovac. Those were the first wines from the rocky ground of Kor-lat, situated on around 1000 acres of karst, with the highest point some 300 meters above the sea level. Some 550 000 vines are planted in this area which is facing the sea in the shape of a plate. The invest-ment from the preparatory works to the first com-mercial picking is worth around 30,5 million kuna. The wine has captured the attention of wine lovers, not just because of the original label that received a prestigious award from the Design Museum in Essen, but also because of its exquisite quality and alluring bouquet.

19

Page 20: vinum.in no.7

20

Ekološka vina s ekološkog otokaOrganic wine from an ecological island

De Georgiis:

Page 21: vinum.in no.7

Vinska priča obitelji Jurjević (de Georgiis)

nije uobičajena i ne počiva na stoljetnim

tradicijama. Počinje 2001.godine, nastav-

ljajući ono što su težačke ruke njegovale. Spaja-

jući staro i novo, cilj obitelji Jurjević je stvaranje

kvalitetnih vina u moru djevičanske tišine i šu-

movitog raslinja otoka Silbe.

Priča o vinima je priča o tradiciji, kvaliteti i lju-

bavi. Ona počinje u vinogradima gdje se grožđe

brižno njeguje da bi zadržalo svoje najbolje oso-

bine. Vinogradi obitelji Jurjević su smješteni na

čudesnom otoku Silbi, uz samo more, okruženi

maslinicima, mediteranskim ljekovitim i aroma-

tičnim biljkama i netaknutim prirodom. Silba se

inače naziva ‘otokom pješaka’, s obzirom da na

njemu nema nijednog motornog vozila te je time

zaštićen od bilo kakvog onečišćenja ispušnim

plinovima, što daje jedinstvenu prednost ekološ-

kom uzgoju grožđa na ovom otoku. Kroz stoljeća

burne i bogate prošlosti, Silbljani su vješto njego-

vali svoju lozu i grožđe, koja je sasvim rano, već

koncem mjeseca srpnja, dozrijevalo i odašiljalo

se širom naše domovine, pa i dalje. Vinogradi su

se mukotrpno stvarali u igri kamena i zemlje.

Na imanju Jurjević se nalazi oko sto tisuća pa-

nja koje čine sorte pošip, debit, maraština, char-

donnay i kao posebnost, bijeli grenache. Od cr-

nih sorti grožđa zastupljene su merlot i syrah.

Sve se obrađuje ručno, od pripreme zemljišta,

čišćenja korova, kopanja, sađenja, prskanja, do

branja i prešanja u čistim ekološkim uvjetima i

sve u skladu sa svjetskim ekološkim standar-

dima. Ručnim branjem, pomnim odabirom

grozdova te njihovim kratkim putem do podru-

ma, omogućuju visoku kakvoću vina. Podrum i

kušaona vina su u cjelosti ukopani pod zemlju

i nalaze se u neposrednoj blizini vinograda. U

vrijeme berbe, koja je najranija u Europi, pomno

odabrani grozdovi prolaze kratki put da započnu

stvaranje harmonije okusa i mirisa.Obitelj Jurje-

vić se pobrinula da ovaj božanski nektar dođe i

do nas, a na nama je da do našeg stola stigne ova

beskrajna priča života i spoznaje.

The Jurjevic (de Georgiis) family wine story

is quite unusual and is not based on cen-

turies-old traditions. It begins in 2001, as

a continuation of the Silba inhabitants work and

tradition. By merging the old and the new, our

goal is to make high-quality wines in the sea of

pristine silence and wooded vegetation of the

island of Silba.

The story of wines is story of tradition, quali-

ty and love. It begins in the vineyard where the

grapes are being carefully nourished in order to

preserve their best qualities. The vineyards of

the Jurjevic family are situated by the sea on the

magnificent island of Silba, surrounded by olive-

groves, Mediterranean medicinal herbs, aromatic

plants nad pristine nature. Silba is often called

‘the pedestrian island’, since it is free of any mo-

tor vehicle and thus protected from any polluti-

on of exhaust gases, which gives the unique ad-

vantage of organic grape growing on the island.

Through centuries of their eventful rich history,

the inhabitants of Silba have skillfully nourished

their wine and grapes, which was very early ripe,

already by the end of july, and then sent across

our countra and beyond. The vineyards were

created with great effort in the play of stone and

earth.

The Jurjevic farm has a hundred thousand vines

and few varieties: pošip, debit, maraština, char-

donnay and as special, white Grenache among

the white grape varieties and Merlot and Syrah

among red grapes.Everything is done manually,

from preparing the terrain, pulling up weeds,

digging, planting, spraying, to grape harvesting

and pressing in clear ecological conditions, in

accordance with world ecological standards. By

hand picking, a careful selection of grapes bun-

ches and their short trip to the cellars, Jurjevic

family ensures a high quality of wines. They have

made sure that this divine nectar finds its way to

us as well. It is up tu us to enjoy this never-en-

ding story of life at our own table.

Contact

phone number:

Kontakt telefon:

+385 23 203517

21

Page 22: vinum.in no.7

PZ Kuna je veličanstveno proslavila čak 113. godišnjicu postojanja. Ovogo-

dišnja posebnost proslave bila je, osim visoke brojke same obljetnice, i u tome što se odvijala istodobno s Danom kamenica u Malom Stonu koji se organizira u povodu blagdana Sv. Josipa, a kako se od davnina smatra, u to vrijeme su kamenice najbolje. Poseban je učinak tih dana imao i pun mjesec, što dodatno utječe na kvali-tetu uživanja u toj morskoj deliciji.

Prema stručnoj ekspertizi dubrovačke Ugo-stiteljske škole, rose napravljen od plavca iz PZ Kune najbolje se sljubljuje s kamenicama. Prema iskustvu brojnih uzvanika proslave go-dišnjice, i sljubljivanje samog plavca s kame-nicama je –čista fantazija! Tog dana u Malom Stonu i na vinariji u Kuni otvoreno ih je na stotine, plavac PZ Kune točio se bez prestan-ka, a svaki gutljaj plavca nakon svježe, sirove

PZ Kuna celebrated magnificently its 113th

anniversary. What was very special about this

year’s celebration, apart from its high number,

was that it overlapped with the Oyster day in

Mali Ston which is organized in celebration

of Saint Joseph’s day, and that time of year

was always considered to be the best for oys-

ters. The Moon has a special role during those

days, which additionally affects the quality of

this sea delicacy.

According to experts from the School of Hos-

pitality in Dubrovnik, rosé made from Plavac

from PZ Kuna goes best with oysters. Based

on the experience of many participants in the

celebration of the anniversary, plavac with

oysters makes a true rhapsody! On that day in

Mali Ston, hundreds of oysters were opened,

plavac from PZ Kuna was being poured 113

go

din

a tr

adic

ije i

kval

itete

PZ Kuna 1898

22

Piše: / Written by:

Vinum IN

Page 23: vinum.in no.7

113

year

s o

f qua

lity

and

trad

itio

n

kamenice, onakve kakvu je iznjedrilo more, bio je čisti užitak. Slavili su se darovi prirode kroz dva aspekta: kroz plavac i rukatac preto-čene iz pelješke zemlje i sunca, i kroz kameni-ce čistog Jadranskog mora. Sveta misa bila je u 18 sati u crkvi GOSPE OD LORETA koja je zaštitnica pelješkuh vinogradara i koja je sa-građena u 17 stolječu. PZ Kuna osnovana je davne 1898. godine, a među osnivačima je bio i poznati hrvatski slikar Mato Celestin Medo-vić, rodom iz Kune ('Dolazak Hrvata', 'Splitski sabor', 'Krunidba kralja Ladislava', brojni pe-lješki pejzaži…). Po trećem članku dokumenta o osnivanju Poljoprivredne zadruge Kuna iz 1898. godine, u zadrugu mogu stupiti jedino osobe, koje „pripadaju općini Kuna, uživaju glas poštene i ćudoredne čeljadi, punoljetne su, nisu podane pijanstvu ili ljenčarenju, ne bave se lihvarstvom ili kamatarenjem i nijesu člano-vi koje druge zadruge na neograničeno jamče-nje". Može se reći da to pravilo vrijedi i danas.

Danas Zadruga broji oko 60 članova koji u svojim vinogradima njeguju plavac mali i ru-katac. Vina PZ Kune 1898 su nadaleko hva-ljena, ali odnedavno se mogu podičiti i osvo-jenim zlatnim medaljama. Na nedavno održa-nom sajmu vina u Beogradu, plavac pod ime-nom "Ponos" berbe 2009. osvojio je zlato. To je vrhunsko suho vino kontroliranog podrijetla, s čak 14,5% alkohola, rubinske boje, izražene sortne arome, punog i skladnog okusa. Zadru-ga je prije 13 godina promijenila ime u PZ Kuna 1898. Većina vinograda PZ Kune 1898 stari su između 30 i 40. godina, što je također garancija kvalitete vina proizvedenih u toj za-druzi. Uz nabavljenu novu tehnologiju, glavni enolog Marko Šuman svojom stručnošću po-stiže vrhunsku kvalitetu vina.

without stop, and every sip of Plavac after a

fresh, raw oyster, straight from the sea, was

pure pleasure. Nature’s gifts were celebrated

through plavac and Rukatac coming from

the soil and sun of the Island of Pelješac and

through the oysters of the clean Adriatic Sea.

PZ Kuna was founded in the distant 1898 and

among its founders was the famous Croatian

painter Mato Celestin Medović, who was born

in Kuna (‘The arrival of Croats’, ‘The Split

Parliament’, ‘The coronation of King Ladislav’,

numerous landscapes of Pelješac…). Accord-

ing to the third article of the document on the

founding of the farming cooperative society

of Kuna from 1898, only persons who “be-

long to the municipality of Kuna, are known

as honest and moral people, are of age, are not

prone to drinking or idling, are not into loan-

sharking or money-lending and guarantee not

to be members of any other society “ can be

members of the society of Kuna. It could be

concluded that these rules are valid still today.

Today the society has 60 members who grow

Plavac Mali and Rukatac in their vineyards,

and the society changed its name to PZ Kuna

in 1898.

PZ Kuna 1898 wines are well respected wide-

ly, and of recently they can also take pride in

the gold medals they won. On a recently held

wine fair in Belgrade, Plavac named “Ponos”

from 2009 picking won the gold. This is a top-

quality wine of controlled origin, with 14,5%

of alcohol, of ruby red color, with a pro-

nounced distinctive aroma of this variety, of a

full and harmonious flavour.

Most PZ Kuna vineyards are between 30 and

40 years old, which is also a guarantee of qual-

ity. With the newly acquired technology, the

main enologist Marko Šuman with his exper-

tise achieves the top quality of wines.

23

Page 24: vinum.in no.7

U današnje vrijeme opsjednutosti zdravljem i zdravom prehranom, u svijetu vina se sve veća pažnja posvećuje organski uz-

gojenom grožđu kao preduvjetu proizvodnje zdravog i neškodljivog vina. Najprihvaćenija definicija organskog vina je da je to vino koje je proizvedeno od grožđa uzgojenog u skladu s načelima ekološke poljoprivrede, što isključuje uporabu umjetnih gnojiva, pesticida, fungicida i herbicida. Popularnost organskih vina zadnjih desetljeća raste, kako zbog mogućih zdravstve-nih koristi (naravno pri umjerenoj konzumaciji), tako i zbog smanjenog štetnog utjecaja na oko-liš. U konvencionalnom poljodjelstvu, kemijska gnojiva se koriste za pospješivanje prinosa i za-štitu od bolesti, ali te iste kemikalije se apsorbi-raju kroz korijen u lozu, kroz lišće i stabljiku u voće. Kao rezultat toga, ostaci kemikalija završe i u vinu. Tako uz učinke na zdravlje potrošača, konvencionalno poljodjelstvo ‘utemeljeno na kemiji’ ima značajan utjecaj na tlo i kvalitetu vode. Negativna slika o uzgoju s kemikalijama najčešće se prikazuje činjenicom da vinogradari moraju nositi ‘haz-mat’ zaštitnu odjeću i aparat za disanje kako bi se zaštitili za vrijeme prskanja vinograda. Osim isticanja štetnosti za zdravlje i okoliš, zagovornici prirodnih vina vjeruju da ke-mijski pripravci uništavaju jedinstvenost zemlje i jedinstveni “terroir” koji upravo daje specifičan okus vinu.

Organska proizvodnja u vinogradarstvu zapo-čela je negdje sedamdesetih godina prošlog sto-ljeća. Njene osnovne principe i standarde posta-vili su proizvođači vina iz Njemačke, Francuske i Švicarske. Danas se procjenjuje da je u svijetu oko 2000 organskih proizvođača vina, s preko 880 tzv. organskih područja samo u Francuskoj. U cijeloj Europi se procjenjuje oko 92.500 hek-tara organskih vinograda, što znači da je udio organskog vinogradarstva svega oko jedan posto. U mnogim se zemljama ovakvi projekti subven-cioniraju od strane države.

Za mnoge potrošače, organsko vino je sinonim za prirodno vino. Međutim, važno je napome-nuti da se po definiciji organsko vino odno-si samo na odsutnost kemikalija u rastu loze i proizvodnom procesu vina. To ne zabranjuje druge oblike intervencije (popularno nazva-ne spoofulation) u procesu proizvodnje vina, kao što su mikrooksigenacija, reverzna osmoza, prekomjerno filtriranje ili okus aditiva (hrast ).Prirodna vina obično su također organska ili bi-odinamički proizvedena, s tim da se za njih če-

Prolazni hir ili val budućnosti?Organska vina:

24

Page 25: vinum.in no.7

In accordance with today’s obsession with health and healthy diet, in the world of wines more and more attention is given to organical-

ly cultivated grapes as a prerequisite of a healthy and non-harmful wine production. The most ac-cepted definition of organic wine says that this is a wine that was made from grapes cultivated in accordance with the postulates of ecological ag-riculture, which excludes the use of artificial ma-nures, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides. The popularity of organic wines has been growing in the recent decades due to potential health bene-fits (of course with moderate consumption), and the fact that it is not as harmful to the environ-ment. In conventional agriculture, chemical ma-nures are used in order to increase the yield and as protection against diseases, but those same chemicals are absorbed through the roots into the vine, through leafs and stem into the fruits. As a result of that, the chemical residues end up in wine as well. And so, along with the way it influences the health of the consumers, the con-ventional agriculture “based on chemistry” has a significant impact on the soil and the quality of water. The negative image of chemical based cul-tivation is usually shown by the fact that wine-makers have to wear hazmat protective clothing and gas masks in order to protect themselves during the spraying of vineyards. Apart from the harmful effect that they have on the health and the environment, the advocates of organic wines believe that chemical compounds destroy the uniqueness of the soil and the special “terroir” that gives a specific flavor to wines.

The organic wine production in agriculture be-gan somewhere in the 70s in the previous cen-tury. Its basic principles and standards were set by wine manufacturers from Germany, France and Spain. It is estimated that today there are around 2000 organic manufacturers of wine, with more than 880 of the so-called “organic areas” in France only. In the entire Europe it is estimated that there are around 92500 acres of organic vineyards, which means that the share of organic wine-growing is around one per cent. In many countries these kinds or projects are subsi-dized by the state.

For many consumers, organic wine is synony-mous with natural wine. However, it should be mentioned that by definition the organic wine only means that no chemicals were used during the growth of the vine and the wine production

Fleeting fad or wave of the future?Organic wines:

Piše: / Written by: Žana Rubić

25

Page 26: vinum.in no.7

sto koriste divlji kvasci, a sumporni dioksid se koristi minimalno ili nikako. Nastoji se dobiti vino onakvo kako ga priroda daje, a popularnost takvog pokreta porasla je kao odgovor na ono što neki nazivaju ‘Parkerizacijom’. Parkerizacija je fenomen nastao zbog pokušaja vinara da ma-nipuliraju okusom svojih vina (npr. povećavajući intenzitet aroma voća i hrasta), kako bi udovo-ljili određenim vinskim kritičarima i dobili veće ocjene. Rezultat toga je ujednačenost među vini-ma i gubitak regionalnih i sortnih karaktera.

Neki vinogradari poduzimaju dodatne korake izvan standardnih postupaka proizvodnje organ-skih vina, poput korištenja komposta, uzgoja bi-ljaka koje privlače kukce blagotvorne za zdravlje vinove loze, potom sadnju vegetacije kao zaštitu od životinja koje jedu grožđe, dopušta-nje rasta korova i divljeg cvijeća između trsova (jer to naglašava vina prisiljavajući lozu da rađa manje grozdove s većom koncentracijom okusa). Također sve više koriste biodizel za traktore u vinogradima (što smanjuje štetne emisije među lozama) ili čak oranje s konjima.

Pitanje pravne definicije organskog vina je prilič-no složeno i varira od zemlje do zemlje. Osnovni preduvjet za definiciju organskog vina je nekori-štenje konzervansa tijekom prve faze proizvod-nje –u vinogradu, pa se stoga do sada najtočnije nazivalo ‘vino od organski uzgojenog grožđa’. Iz-među ostalog, vinograd mora biti dovoljno uda-ljen od industrije, autoputa i nasada u kojem se koriste kemikalije. U blizini bi trebao biti pojas drveća i grmlja, jer to povoljno utječe na prisu-stvo korisnih organizama i stabilnost ekološkog sustava. Sadržaj štetnih kemikalija u zemljištu mora biti ispod propisanih vrijednosti. Ako su kemikalije korištene prethodnih godina, onda se to zemljište može koristiti za organsku proizvod-nju tek nakon godinu-dvije.

Ipak, nerazjašnjene su dileme oko druge faze proizvodnje, jer su različita mišljenja oko kori-štenja sredstava koja se dodaju u drugoj fazi, s ciljem očuvanja vina. Najčešće korišteni konzer-vans je sumporni dioksid i o njegovoj upotrebi se puno raspravlja u svijetu organskih vina. S ob-

26

Page 27: vinum.in no.7

process. This does not ban other forms of inter-

vention (popularly called spoofulation) in the

process of wine making, such as micro-oxygen-

ation, reverse osmosis, over-filtering and flavor

additives (oak).

Natural wines are also usually the result of or-

ganic and biodynamic agriculture, but with them

wild yeasts are often used, and sulfur dioxide is

used minimally or not at all. The idea is to pro-

duce the kind of wine that nature itself would

provide, and the popularity of such an objective

increased in response to what some might call

''Parkerisation''. It's a phenomenon that is due to

wine makers' attempts to manipulate the taste of

their wines (for example, by increasing the inten-

sity of fruit and oak aromas), in order to satisfy

certain wine critics and get better marks. The

result is uniformity among wines and the loss of

regional and sort character.

Some vine growers are taking additional steps

outside standardised procedures of organic

wine production, such as using compost, grow-

ing plants that attract insects beneficial to vine

health, planting vegetation as protection from

animals that eat grapes and allowing weed and

wild flowers growth among vines (because it ac-

centuates the wine by forcing vine to produce

smaller grape clusters with a larger concentration

of flavor). Also, biodiesel is increasingly used for

tractors in the vineyards (which reduces harm-

ful emissions among the vines), or even plowing

with horses.

The question of a legal definition of organic

wine is quite complex and varies from country

to country. The basic predisposition for organic

wine definition is the nonuse of preservatives

during the first phase of production - in the

vineyard, so it’s been called most accurately so

far 'wine made from organically grown grapes'.

Among other things, the vineyard should be suf-

ficiently distant from industry, highways and

plantations in which chemicals are used. Trees

and bushes should be nearby, because they have

a beneficial effect on the presence of useful or-

ganisms and ecosystem stability. The amount of

harmful chemicals in the soil must be below the

prescribed value. If chemicals were used over the

previous years, then that soil can be used for or-

ganic production only a year or two later.

However, the dilemmas regarding the second

phase of production remain unexplained, be-

cause there are different opinions regarding the

use of ingredients that are added in the second

stage in order to preserve wine. The most com-

monly used preservative is sulfur dioxide, and

its use is much debated in the world of organic

wines. Since the idea is to achieve better wines

after a certain time because their taste becomes

27

Page 28: vinum.in no.7

zirom da se nastoji postići da vina s vremenom

postaju bolja, jer im okus starenjem postaje in-

tegriraniji i uravnoteženiji, dodatak sumpornog

dioksida je mnogima nezaobilazan korak jer

omogućuje stabilizaciju i starenje čak desetlje-

ćima. Međutim, u proizvodnji organskih vina,

mišljenja su podijeljena od onih koji ih koriste u

malim količinama do onih koji ih u potpunosti

odbijaju, svjesni da se njihova vina moraju po-

trošiti unutar par godina.

U SAD-u, striktna pravila reguliraju proces pro-

izvodnje vina u svim fazama, uključujući berbu,

vrste kvasaca koji se mogu koristiti tijekom fer-

mentacije, kao i uvjete skladištenja. Ova pravila

se primjenjuju za sva uvezena i domaća vina da bi

mogla dobiti USDA certifikaciju. U SAD-u, uku-

pna razina sulfita mora biti manja od 20 dijelova

na milijun da bi se dobio certifikat organskog.

U zemljama Europske unije, nakon stupanja na

snagu najnovijih odredbi za označavanje hrane

od 1. srpnja 2010. godine, primjenjuje se i novi

EU znak namijenjen označavanju organski uz-

gojene hrane. Novi EU logotip čini 12 zvjezdica

u obliku lista i znak je da je roba proizvedena u

skladu s novim regulativama organske proizvod-

nje, prema kojima proizvodi mogu biti označeni

kao organski samo ako je najmanje 95 % sastoja-

ka organski proizvedeno. Proizvod, naravno, uz

oznaku sadržava ime proizvođača, eventualno,

prepakiratelja ili isporučitelja, te naziv ili kod in-

spekcijskog tijela. Podrazumijeva se da proizvod

ne smije sadržavati GMO. Proizvođačima je dan

rok do 1.siječnja 2012. godine za primjenu novog

logotipa na svojim proizvodima.

U Hrvatskoj također postoje eko oznake koje se

dodjeljuju proizvodima iz ekološkog uzgoja, a

potrebno je zadovoljiti niz preduvjeta u uzgoju

i proizvodnji, koji su doduše dosta nejasni i ne-

dosljedni, što ostavlja mogućnost da oznaka nije

uvijek na potpuno opravdanom mjestu. Oznaku

“Hrvatski eko proizvod” izdaju tri privatne tvrt-

ke s područja Republike Hrvatske, dok Ministar-

stvo zaštite okoliša izdaje oznaku “Prijatelj oko-

liša.” Ovaj znak, prema podacima Ministarstva

zaštite okoliša ima vrlo mali dio proizvoda. Ula-

skom u EU najvjerojatnije će doći do usvajanja

europske regulative i znaka.

Na web stranici http://www.orwine.org/ nalaze se informacije

o projektu Europske zajednice ORWINE, koji je pokrenut s ciljem

stvaranja pravnog okvira za transformaciju ‘organskog grožđa’ u ‘orga

nsko vino’, odnosno definiranja cjelokupnog procesa proizvodnje

organskog vina. Na istoj web stranici moguće je pronaći knjigu ‘Code

of best practices’, sa savjetima o organskoj proizvodnji vina.

28

Page 29: vinum.in no.7

Web site www.orwine.org contains information about the

European Community project called ORWINE, the purpose of

which is to create a legal framework for the transformation of

'organic grapes' into 'organic wine', or to define the entire process

of organic wine production. The same web site contains the book

'Code of Best Practices' with advice on organic wine production.

more integrated and balanced with aging, adding

sulfur dioxide is an unavoidable step for many

because it enables stabilisation and aging for

decades. However, in the production of organic

wines, there are those who believe they should

be used in small quantities, and those who re-

ject them completely because they are aware of

the fact that their wines must be drunk within a

couple of years.

In the U.S., strict rules govern the wine making

process at all stages, including harvesting, types

of yeast used during fermentation and storage

conditions. These rules apply to all imported

and domestic wines so that they can receive the

USDA certificat. In the U.S., the overall sulfit

level must be less than 20 units per million to be

certified organic.

In the European Union, after establishing the

latest food labelling regulations starting from

July 1, 2010, a new EU label is also used which

is intended to mark organic food. The new EU

logo consists of 12 stars shaped like a leaf and it

suggests that goods are produced in accordance

with the new regulations regarding organic pro-

duction, which states that products can be la-

belled organic only if they contain at least 95%

organically produced ingredients. The product,

of course, apart from the label, also contains the

name of the producer, possibly, resellers or sup-

pliers, and the name or the code of the inspec-

tion entity. It goes without saying that the prod-

uct mustn’t contain GMO. The producers were

given a deadline - January 1, 2012, to implement

the new logo on their products.

In Croatia, there are also eco-labels which are

assigned to organic products, but it is necessary

to meet a number of prerequisites in cultivation

and production, which are, frankly, rather vague

and inconsistent, so it is possible that the posi-

tion of a label is not always justifiable. The label

"Croatian eco product" is issued by three private

companies in Croatia, while the label "Friend of

the environment" is issued by the Ministry of

Environmental Protection. This label, accord-

ing to the Ministry of Environmental Protection

data, was given to a very small number of prod-

ucts. European regulations and their logo will

most probably be adopted with the accession to

the EU.

29

Page 30: vinum.in no.7

“Iako sam rodjena u Primoštenu, kolijevci

Babića, nisam mogla ni sanjati da ću se jed-

nog dana i ja baviti vinarstvom”, kaže San-

dra Meštrović, koju su život i ljubav 2000.godine

odveli u Italiju, točnije u Nimis pokraj Udina .

Imanje osnovano 1976. godine, supružnici Luka

i Sandra preuzeli su 2005. godine i nastavili

razvijati vinogradarsku i agroturističku priču.

Nimis spada u brežuljkasto područje Colli

Orintali del Friuli, koje je nekoliko kilometara

udaljeno od slovenske granice. Tu se stoljećima

proizvodi vino. “Merlino” se nalazi u zoni koja

ima svoje izvorno vino, Ramandolo. To je prvo

vino u regiji Friuli koje ima certifikat kontrolira-

nog i garantiranog podrijetla.

Ramandolo je bijelo vino slatkog okusa, zlatno

žute boje. Dobiva se od grožđa sorte Verduzzo

friulano i to kasnom berbom, krajem listopada,

čak i početkom studenog. Jedan dio grožđa se

ostavi sušiti na lozi, tako da se ostvari što veći

koncentrat šećera. Sandra ga zove “ženskim vi-

nom”, jer je blago slatkog okusa, nježne arome

suhih marelica i kestenovog meda.

“Obično se jedan dio vina ostavi neko vrijeme u

hrastovim bačvama, tako da dobije i tu poseb-

Merlino“

Although I was born in Primošten, the birth-place of Babić, I never even dreamed that one day I would be in the winemaking business”,

says Sandra Meštrović, who was brought to Italy by love and life, more specifically to Nimis near Udine. The spouses, Luka and Sandra, took over in 2005 the management of the property founded in 1976 and continued to develop its viticultural and agrotourist story. Nimis belongs to the hilly area of Colli Orintali del Friuli, on several kilome-ters from the border with the Republic of Slove-nia. Wine has been manufactured here for centu-ries. “Merlino” is in the area that has its authentic wine, Ramandolo. This is the first wine from the region of Friuli that acquired the certificate of controlled and guaranteed origin. Ramandolo is a white wine, sweet and golden in color. It is made from the Verduzzo friulano grape variety and the harvest is late, sometimes at the end of October and even at the beginning of November. Some grapes are left to dry on the vine so as to achieve the highest possible concentration of sugar. San-dra calls it “a girl drink”, because it is of a mildly sweet flavor, combined with a soft aroma of dried apricots and chestnut honey.

“A portion of wine is usually left for a while in oak barrels in order to get that special note of vanilla.

30

Page 31: vinum.in no.7

nu notu vanilije. Mi naš Ramandolo stavljamo u

bačve od trešnjevog drveta, tako da zadobije je-

dan sviježi i voćni okus”, kaže Sandra. “Ovo vino

se pije uz suhe kolače,orahnjače i slične slastice,

ali isto tako jako fino paše s posebnim sirevima

poput gorgonzole, pršutom, dimljenim jelima.

Jako je interesantno i bilo bi zanimljivo upoznati

ga i u Hrvatskoj.”

Luca i Sandra obrađuju oko 6 hektara vinograda,

te proizvode i crna vina kao Cabernet franc, Ca-

bernet sauvignon, Refosco, Pignolo, a od bijelih

Sauvignon, Picolit i naravno Ramandolo.

U listopadu 2010 god. otvorili su seoski turizam

“Agriturismo Merlino”, gdje osim svojih vina

nude gostima hladne nareske iz ovog podneblja,

u jednoj ugodnoj i toploj atmosferi. Uskoro pla-

niraju dovršiti projekt soba za iznajmljivanje jer

se misle u potpunosti posvetiti enoturizmu.

“Naravno da svoje podrijetlo ne zaboravljam,

a kako bih i mogla, tako da na mojim policama

uz naša vina stoje boca Babića i šibenske trava-

rice. Turizam i ugostiteljstvo me nekako prate u

životu, jer sam završila tu školu, a kasnije radila

u restoranu mog oca na otoku Pagu, na koji se

vraćam svake godine sa svojom obitelji.”

31

Vina i jedna rođena primoštenka u talijanskoj vinskoj priči

Wines and a primošten-born in an italian wine story

We store our Ramandolo in cherry wood bar-rels, because we want to achieve a fresh and fruity taste”, says Sandra. “This wine goes well with dry cakes, walnut loafs and similar types of pastry, but it is also delicious with special types of cheese like Gorgonzola, with prosciutto and smoked dishes. It is very intriguing and it would be interesting to introduce it in Croatia as well.”

Luca and Sandra cultivate around 6 acres of vine-yard, and they manufacture red wines such as Cabernet franc, Cabernet sauvignon, Refosco, Pi-gnolo, and white wines, Sauvignon, Picolit and of course Ramandolo. In October 2010, they started an agrotourism business “Agriturismo Merlino”, and apart from their wines they also offer to their guests local cold cuts in a pleasant and warm at-mosphere. They soon plan to finish their rental rooms project because they want to dedicate themselves completely to enotourism.

“Of course, I never forget my origins, and how could I, and so on my shelves next to our wines there is a bottle of Babić and an herb-flavored brandy (travarica) from Šibenik. Tourism and Hospitality seem to follow me in life, because I graduated from that school and then later on I worked in my father’s restaurant on the Island of Pag, where I return every year with my family.”

Piše: / Written by: Vinum IN

Page 32: vinum.in no.7

Energija Sunca, energija Pelješca i energija Mate Matuška

Poluotok Pelješac, oazu crnih vina, po-

sljednjih godina sve više posjećuje veli-

ki broj turista i ljubitelja dobre kapljice.

Šetajući pelješkim krajolicima, nezaobilazna

odredišta su vinogradi, konobe i vinarije do

kojih ih put nanese slučajno ili namjerno. Spoj

mediteranskog sunca i mora i strmih kameni-

tih padina pelješkog Dingača uspješno se sta-

pa u vrhunska vina ovog zaštićenog vinorod-

nog kraja. Sunčeve zrake s neba i odbljesci s

mora zbrajaju se na zrnu plavca, u kojem zrije

nektar nadaleko poznatog vina.

Među brojnim kvalitetnim pelješkim vinarija-

ma, ovom prilikom naglasit ćemo jednu koja

se zahvaljujući kvaliteti, znanju i upornosti

uspela od malog podruma za vinokušnju do

prepoznatljive vinsko-turističke destinacije.

PODRUM MATUŠKO u Potomju danas je

jedno od najvećih i najpoznatijih odredišta

vinoljubaca iz cijelog svijeta, u kojem vinski

stručnjak ing. Mato Violić Matuško prezentira

i nudi vrhunska autohtona vina pelješkog kra-

ja i Dubrovačko-neretvanske županije.

Posjet toj vinariji ostaje trajni doživljaj, koji

se kasnije ponovno i ugodno vraća sa sva-

kom čašom Matuškovih vina. Plavac, pošip i

rukatac sorte su od kojih Matuško radi svoja

prepoznatljiva vina. U ugodnom ambijentu

prekrasno uređenog vinskog podruma, s ve-

likim izborom čuvanih arhivskih i domaćih

vina, može se uživati u čaši rashlađenog Poši-

pa ili Rukatca, Roseu, Plavcu Matuško i ra-

znim varijacijama Dingača, od kojih definitiv-

ni vrh kušanja predstavlja SUPERIOR cuvee

barrique – polusuho vino iz probirne berbe s

odabranih položaja. U kombinaciji s dalma-

tinskim specijalitetima iz taverne Matuško, s

čije se terase pruža pogled na uvalu Borik od

kojeg zastaje dah, užitak je nezaboravan.

Over the last couple of years an ever increasing number of tourists and lo-vers of good wine has been visiting

the Pelješac peninsula – the oasis of red wine. Anyone strolling through Pelješac landscapes unavoidably visits its vineyards, taverns and wine cellars they intentionally or unintenti-onally stumble across. The combination of Mediterranean sun and sea, and steeply rocky slopes of Dingač successfully blends into the wines from this protected wine-rich area. The sun’s rays from the sky and reflections from the sea cumulate in the pumice grain, where the nectar ripens into the well-known wine. Among the many excellent wineries on Pe-lješac, on this occasion we will point out one that is managed from a wine-tasting cellar to a recognizable wine-tourist destination, due to the quality, knowledge and persistence. To-day, MATUŠKO WINE CELLAR in Potomje is one of the largest and most popular desti-nation for wine lovers from around the world, in which a wine expert Mato Violić Matuško presents and offers excellent authentic wines from Pelješac and Dubrovnik-Neretva County. Visiting the Matuško wine cellar is everlasting memory that is repeated with every glass of Matuško wines. Plavac, Pošip and Rukatac are varieties from which Matuško makes his re-cognizable wines. In the pleasant ambience of beautifully decorated wine cellar, with a large selection of archival and kept local wines, you can enjoy in the glass of chilled Pošip, Ruka-tac, Rose or in Plavac and many variations of Dingač, of which a definitive top tasting mo-ment is SUPERIOR cuvee barrique - semi-dry wine from selected harvest and selected posi-tions. In combination with Dalmatian speci-alties in Matuško tavern and terrace with an outstanding view to the bay Borik, the pleasu-re is unforgettable.

32

Page 33: vinum.in no.7

The energy of the sun, the energy of Pelješac and the energy of Mate Matuško

33

Page 34: vinum.in no.7

Program edukacije u ugostiteljstvu i turizmu

„Adriatic“ osmišljen je u cilju usavršavanja

znanja i vještina osoblja, a time i podizanja

razine kvalitete usluga na viši nivo. Zbog nedovolj-

ne educiranosti ugostiteljskog osoblja o bogatstvu

autohtonih hrvatskih vina, provodi se osposoblja-

vanje polaznika za zanimanje savjetnik/ica za vina.

Edukativnim programima ne samo da se potiču

educiranje i usavršavanje, nego i samozapošljavanje i

poduzetništvo. To je posebno važno kad se sagledaju

planovi razvoja turizma koji spominju stalnu potre-

bu povećanja smještajnih kapaciteta od pet zvjezdi-

ca, a u Hrvatskoj je malo ljudi obrazovano da kvali-

tetom posluživanja zadovolji takvu klijentelu. Rad u

takvim hotelima traži ispunjavanje visokih zahtjeva

klijenata, a u Hrvatskoj nedostaje baš takvog kadra.

Tvrtka ‘Adriatic educatio’ djeluje od 2005. godine

u Splitu, a odluka o njezinu osnivanju donesena je

nakon uspješnog pilot-projekta Adriatic edukacije

u ugostiteljstvu i turizmu barmen 2004. godine. Do

sada su organizirani seminari i tečajevi za savjetni-

ke/ice za vina, te skupljeno relevantno četverogodiš-

nje iskustvo u obavljanju istih (2007., 2008., 2009.,

2010.) u četiri županije Republike Hrvatske. Pola-

znici kroz 120 sati teorijskih i praktičnih predavanja

usvajaju osnovne pojmove o enologiji, načinu po-

služivanja i ostalim segmentima vinarstva, vinogra-

darstva i podrumarstva. Obučavaju se kroz slijedeće

predavačke cjeline:

Enologija u gastronomiji- prof. Nenad Prpić, 1.

Vina Dalmacije i Hrvatske - dipl.iur Željko Bašić, 2.

Svjetska vinska i vinogradarska područja - dr.sc. 3.

Bernard Kozina,

Bonton i komunikacija sa gostom – prof.soc.ped. 4.

Ana Mandac,

Utjecaj vina na zdravlje – dr.med. Tomislav Čen-5.

gić,

Praktičan rad -Ivana Valić, dipl.ing.vinarstva i 6.

Projektni zadatak - Petar Labus. 7.

Tijekom edukacija polaznicima se organizira posjet

vinogradima i vinogradarskim područjima kako bi

se upoznali sa procesom proizvodnje autohtonih hr-

vatskih vina.

Edukacija završava javnom demonstracijom i dodje-

lom uvjerenja odobrenom od Agencije za obrazo-

vanje odraslih o završenom seminaru. Svi sudionici

edukacije, osim navedenog znanja, dobiju i priklad-

nu stručnu literaturu (knjige, skripte i CD). Na za-

vršnoj manifestaciji se, zbog želje više od 30% po-

laznika prethodnih godina, održava seminar „Kako

postati poduzetnik“.

Veliki je interes za programe osobito među voditelji-

ma, vlasnicima tvrtki iz HoReCa kanala, koji šalju

svoje osoblje na dodatno usavršavanje, ali i među

pojedincima koji tek traže posao ili žele nadopu-

niti znanje te ga na taj način obogatiti, što se po

dosadašnjim iskustvima pokazalo presudnim pri do-

bivanju posla.

Edu

kaci

ja u

ug

ost

itel

jstv

u i

turi

zmu

Edu

cati

on

in h

osp

ita

lity

ind

ust

ry a

nd

tou

rism

Edu

kaci

jom

do

(bol

jeg)

pos

la

bivb

34

Page 35: vinum.in no.7

Adriatic educatio

The education program in hospitality and tour-ism “Adriatic” was developed with the goal of perfecting the knowledge and skills of the staff

and bringing the quality of service to a higher level. Due to the lack of education of the catering workers regarding autochthonous Croatian wines, the train-ing of participants for the vocation of wine advisers is in progress. The educational programs stimulate not only education and self-improvement but also self-employment and entrepreneurism. This is especially important when we look at the plans of development of tourism that keep mentioning the continuous need for an increase in the number of five star hotels, and in Croatia only a small number of people have the education to satisfy the needs of that kind of clientele with the quality of their service. Work in these hotels requires the fulfillment of high demands of clients, and in Croatia precisely this kind of personnel is lack-ing.

‘Adriatic educatio’ firm has been in business in Split since 2005, and the decision of its foundation was made after a successful pilot-project by Adriatic edu-cation in hospitality and tourism, bartender 2004. From that point on many seminars and courses for wine advisers have been organized, and a relevant four-year experience has been gathered in the man-agement of these seminars and courses (22207, 2008, 2009, 2010) in four counties of the Republic of Croa-tia. The participants during 120 hours of theoretical and practical classes learn the basic enological ter-minology, ways of serving and other aspects of wine-making, winegrowing and enology. They are trained through the following courses:

1. Enology in gastronomy – prof. Nenad Prpić,

2. Wines of Dalmatia and Croatia – dipl.iur Željko Bašić,

3. World wines and winegrowing areas – Bernard Kozina, PhD

4. Etiquette and communication with guests – prof.soc.ped. Ana Mandac,

5. The influence of wine on health – Dr.med. Tomis-lav Čengić,

6. Practical work – Ivana Valić, dipl.ing. (winemaking engineer) and

7. Project assignment – Petar Labus

During training visits to vineyards and winegrowing areas are organized for the participants in order for them to become familiar with the process of produc-tion of autochthonous Croatian wines.

The training ends with a public demonstration and a presentation of certificates of completion approved by the Agency for adult education. All the participants of the training, apart from the mentioned knowledge, receive also appropriate technical literature (books, mimeographed course materials and a CD). During the final manifestation, as a result of a wish expressed by more than 30% of the participants from previous years, a seminar “How to become an entrepreneur” is held.

Many managers and owners of companies from HoReCa channel are very interested in programs, and are sending their staff to be further educated, but also individuals who are looking for work or who want to improve and enrich their knowledge, which, accord-ing to the experiences so far seems to be crucial to getting a job. Ed

uca

tion

as

a ro

ad to

a (b

ette

r) jo

b

35

Page 36: vinum.in no.7

Mede

a

Malv

azija

36

Page 37: vinum.in no.7

Proljetno buđenje prirode budi u nama iz-

među ostalog želju za novim okusima, za

svježom i laganom hranom koja je istovre-

meno puna arome i energije. I baš u to vrijeme

priroda se pobrinula da šparoge izbace svoje

ukusne mladice i dala šansu kuharima diljem

svijeta da se oprobaju u najmaštovitijim recep-

tima koristeći ovu zdravu biljku. S obzirom na

tradicionalno korištenje šparoga u proljetnoj ku-

hinji Istre, moramo primijetiti da se vino malva-

zija savršeno uklapa u takav jelovnik.

Šparoge se obično vežu uz fritaju, maneštru

ili jela od bijelog mesa, kao i malvazija. Ovaj

put smo kušali upravo rolani pileći filet sa

šparogama, a uz to pili malvaziju Medeu Mon-

With the awakening of nature in spring-

time, also awakes our desire for new

flavors, for fresh and light food which

is at the same time full of aroma and energy. And

during that time, the nature made sure that as-

paraguses grew their green shoots thus enabling

the chefs all over the world to try their hand at

the most imaginative recipes by using this healthy

plant. Considering the traditional use of aspara-

guses in the spring cuisine of Istra, we have to

observe that the wine Malvazija fits perfectly with

this menu.

Asparaguses are usually associated with omelet,

pasta or dishes with white meat, as is Malvazija.

This time we tried the chicken roll with aspara-

Proljeće uz Malvaziju Medeu i rolanu piletinu sa šparogama

Spring with Malvazija Medea and chicken roll with asparaguses

37

Page 38: vinum.in no.7
Page 39: vinum.in no.7

tiron iz 2009. godine, istarskog Agroprodukta

d.o.o., vino dobiveno iz 27 hektara vinograda s

položaja u okolici Medulina, na južnom dijelu

istarskog poluotoka. Trsovi malvazije tu rastu

na odabranim pozicijama – na blago nagnutim

terenima, osunčanim južnim i jugoistočnim pa-

dinama, te daju grozdove visoke kvalitete. Vi-

nogorje je smješteno na posebnoj, dubokoj, de-

gradiranoj crvenici koja vinu daje puniju boju,

sa jasnim žutim odsjajem. Malvazija Medea re-

flektira sve poznate karakteristike svoje sorte, pa

se ova vina dobro uklapaju u raznolik spektar

gastronomskih delicija.

Šparoge su jedna od nutritivno najuravno-

teženijih vrsta namirnica. One su niskoka-

lorične, bogate vitamina, mineralima i vlaknima,

što ih čini idealnom namirnicom za sve koji žele

zdravo jesti i održavati vitku liniju. Što se bijelog

vina tiče, iako se zna da crno vino sadrži važne

polifenole u većim količinama, oni prisutni u

bijelom vinu imaju znatno jače antioksidativno

djelovanje. Nekoliko studija u svijetu potvrdilo je

izvanredno djelovanje bijeloga vina na zdravlje.

Malvazija Medea Montiron okusno je puna, zao-

kružena, s naglašenom notom mineralnosti koja

joj daje ugodnu svježinu. Retronazalno dominira

aroma bijelih cvjetova akacije i citrusa. Srednje

je dugog završetka. Lijepo razvijenih “vinskih

suza”, izbalansiranih slatkasto kiselkastih senza-

cija i nakon dužeg vremena mirisno je postojana

u čaši.

Ispreplićući se s okusom šparoga i ne prezačinje-

nog, lagano pripremljenog pilećeg mesa, stvori-

la se ugodna harmonija na nepcu, u kojoj su se

lijepo ispreplitale arome šparoga sa citrusnim

aromama malvazije. Zahvaljujući blagosti pri-

premljenog mesa, do izražaja su došle svježina

malvazije, njezina pitkost i dobra povezanih sas-

tojaka što je svojstveno vinima vinogorja iz kojeg

dolazi.

Kombinacija koju svakako preporučamo za ove

proljetne dane, ne samo zbog užitka nego i zbog

zdravlja. Stoga, živjeli uz malvaziju Medeu!

guses, and with that we drank Medea Montiron

malvazija from 2009, of the Agroprodukt d.o.o.

from Istra, a wine that was made on the 27 acres

of vineyards in the surrounding area of Medulin,

on the southern part of the Istra peninsula. Wine-

grapes of malvazija are grown here on selected lo-

cations – on mildly steep terrain, on sunny south

and southeast slopes, and produce grapes of high

quality. The winegrowing area is situated on a

special, deep, degraded red soil that gives the wine

a fuller color with yellow glow. Malvazija Medea

reflects all the known characteristics of its variety,

and so these wines fit nicely with a wide range of

gastronomic delicacies.

Asparagus is one of the nutritionally most bal-

anced types of food. It is low in calories, rich in

vitamins, minerals and fibres, which makes it an

ideal food for everyone who wants to eat healthy

and stay thin. As far as white wine is concerned,

although it is known that red wine contains im-

portant polifenols in large quantities, those pres-

ent in white wine have a stronger antioxidant

capacity. Several studies conducted in the world

have confirmed the extraordinary influence of

white wine on health.

Malvazija Medea Montiron is of a full flavor,

rounded, with a pronounced note of minerals

which gives it nice freshness. Retronasally, it is

dominated by the aroma of white acacia flowers

and citruses. Its ending is mid-long. It has nicely

developed “wine tears”, with balanced sweet and

sour sensations and after a longer period of time

its scent remains stable in the glass. Mixed with

the aroma of asparaguses and a not too spicy, light

chicken dish, a nice harmony is formed on the

palate, in which aroma of the asparaguses is nicely

interwoven with the citrus aroma of malvazija.

Thanks to the mildness of the prepared meat,

the freshness of malvazija is pronounced, along

with its smoothness and the quality of the mixed

ingredients which is characteristic of the wines

from this winegrowing area. This is a combina-

tion that we most certainly recommend fro these

days of spring, not just for pleasure but for health

as well. Therefore, cheers with malvazija Medea

Montiron!Mede

a Malv

azija

39

Page 40: vinum.in no.7

Medovina od Ilira do naših danaMead from the illyrians to present day

Bra

či’s

first

ho

ney

liq

ueu

rB

rači

ćev

med

ni p

rvije

na

cIt is a well known fact that the first alcoholic beverage in the history of mankind was mead, a drink that was enjoyed many centuries before

the birth of Christ by all the barbarian peoples, in-cluding the Illyrians. However, nobody could fore-see that some 3000 years later this drink would become popular again in Croatia. Namely, in the last few years, many different variants of mead are consistently finding their place on the organized market and are pushing out many other alcoholic beverages that have been on the market for a very long time. Manufacturers, sensing the trend, are starting to produce on a mass scale these types of drinks and so new varieties of mead are springing up like mushrooms. However, in the midst of the newest mead craze, the one who started it all and in a way initiated this new fashion in the alcoholic beverage consumption, is often forgotten. This is, without a doubt, Ivan Bračić, owner and manag-ing director of the PIP d.o.o. firm from Zagreb, who has, more than fifteen years ago, started this pioneer undertaking, even though, truth be told, some have tried placing different honey based drinks even before but with little success. PIP d.o.o. firm is an innovation company that special-izes in honey bee products and other honey based products. The company bases its development on the family tradition of bee-keeping, which dates from 1930, and is at the same time one of the old-est manufacturers of these kinds of products in Croatia. The company employees have incorpo-

Piše: / Written by: Želimir Bašić

PIP d.o.o. Bijenik 158

HR 10000 Zagreb

www.pip.hr

e-mail:[email protected]

40

Page 41: vinum.in no.7

Poznato je da je prvo jako alkoholno piće u

povijesti čovječanstva bila medovina u ko-

joj su, mnogo stoljeća prije rođenja Krista,

uživali svi barbarski narodi, uključujući i Ilire.

Međutim, nije se moglo predvidjeti da će, oko

3 000 godine poslije, to piće u Hrvatskoj pono-

vo postati jako traženo. Naime posjednih godina

medovine, u raznim varijantama, sigurno prodi-

ru na organizirano tržište, oduzimajući mjesto

mnogim alkoholnim pićima koja su tu odavno

pozicionirana.

Proizvođači. osjetivši taj trend. masovno počinju

proizvoditi takvo piće, pa niču nove medovine

kao gljive poslije kiše. Međutim u ovoj novoj po-

mami, zaboravlja se onog koji je sve pokrenuo,

odnosno na neki način inicirao novu modu u

konzumaciji alkoholnih pića. To je bez sumnje

Ivan Bračić, vlasnik tvrtke PIP d.o.o. iz Zagre-

ba, koji se prije više od petnaest godina upustio

u ovaj pionirski posao, iako su, istini za volju,

neki i prije pokušavali plasirati razna pića od

meda, ali bez većeg uspjeha.

Inače, tvrtka PIP d.o.o. je inovativno društvo

specijalizirano za pčelinje proizvode i proizvode

na njihovoj osnovi, koje je izraslo iz obiteljske

tradicije bavljenja pčelarstvom, još od 1930. go-

dine, i ujedno je jedna od najstarijih proizvođača

takvih proizvoda u Hrvatskoj. Djelatnici tvrtke

su bogatu tradiciju i inovativan rad utkali u sva-

ki proizvod, a stečena znanja neprekidno ulažu u

kvalitetu, istraživanje i razvoj novih proizvoda,

što mogu zahvaliti i partnerskoj suradnji s više

fakulteta na Sveučilištu u Zagrebu.

Sigurno je da je i Ivan Bračić, kao osnivač tvrtke

1989. godine, ugradio u nju svoju osobnu notu,

a njemu je pčela ugrađena u životni kod. Nai-

me, nastavljajući obiteljsku tradiciju, Bračiću je

ljubav prema pčelama urezana još u djetinjstvu,

dok je provodio vrijeme po vrletima Promine,

pa je i svoj poduzetnički duh povezao s medom i

pčelama. Vodeći tvrtku, nastojao je stalno proši- Like

ri o

d m

eda

- no

va m

od

a u

po

tro

šnji

alk

oh

oln

ih p

ića

Ho

ney

liq

ueu

rs –

the

new

est t

ren

d in

the

alc

oh

olic

bev

era

ge

con

sum

pti

onrated both a rich tradition as well as innovating

work into every product, and the gained knowl-edge is continuously invested in the enhancement of quality, research and development of new prod-ucts for which much credit goes to the partnership they have with many faculties of the University of Zagreb. It is certain that Ivan Bračić as the found-er of the company in 1989 has marked it with his personal touch and bees are a part of his life phi-losophy. Love for bees, as a family tradition, was a part of Bračić’s childhood from back when he was spending his time on the rugged ground of Prom-ina and so his entrepreneurial spirit is inseparably tied to honey and bees. While managing his com-pany he continuously tried to broaden the range of his products but always with bee product and so he came to the idea to create an alcoholic bev-erage based on honey. He developed two variants of the drink, one was sweet liqueur and the other bitter herb liqueur. He named the products Am-brozije, inspired by the fact that St. Ambrose is the patron saint of beekeepers. But like any othet pineer undertaking, this one encountered some initial difficulties as well. Firstly, consumers were not used to a drink based on honey, and secondly, the name Ambrozije reminded people more of the infamous plant ambrosia than it did of the patron saint. However, I remember the first time I tasted Ambrozije and it felt like being taken back to the past. I recorded my impression in History of the Production of Alcoholic Beverages.

“…the PIP d.o.o. firm from Zagreb has the most character as it combines Croatian tradition and liqueur production with modern technology, pro-ducing several products that contain rich resourc-es, which is reflected on the specific aroma of the drinks. Ambrozije, the product of this firm, seems to have combined the entire history of Croatian liquor production, from the mead of the Illyrians to the modern herb liqueurs whose roots can be traced back to monasteries and whose present is found in strong industrial facilities…”

41

Page 42: vinum.in no.7

rivati paletu ali uvijek pčelinjim proizvodima, pa

je tako došao na ideju da izradi alkoholna pića

na bazi meda u dvije varijante: kao slatki liker i

gorki biljni liker. Proizvodima je dao ime Am-

brozije, inspiriran zaštitničkom ulogom Sv. Am-

brozija nad pčelarima.

Ali kao svaki pionirski posao, i ovaj je prolazio

porođajne probleme. S jedne strane su bili potro-

šači nenaviknuti na pića na bazi meda a s druge,

ime Ambrozije je više stvaralo asocijaciju na zlo-

glasnu biljku ambroziju, a manje na sveca za-

štitnika. Međutim, sjećam se kada sam prvi put

kušao Ambrozija, osjećao sam se kao da sam se

vratio u prošlost. Svoju impresiju zabilježio sam

u knjizi „Povijest proizvodnje jakih alkoholnih

pića“.

So let us travel back in time and ask how the Illyr-ians produced the first mead, which according to some sources they called medos in their language? Unfortunately, due to the lack of written evidence, we can only speculate. According to some, mead was made through the process of the alcoholic fer-mentation of the heated, diluted honey which had been the main sweetener for a long time before the process of extraction of sugar from sugar-cane and sugar-beet was discovered. However, it is well known that the Illyrians planted as well: first they planted wheat, which was their main field crop, and then also barley, millet, leguminous plants, broad beans, peas and lentils. This conclusion can be drawn based on the evidence of seeds and fruit found on different archaeological sights. We know that the Illyrians were familiar with several types

PIP d.o.o. Bijenik 158

HR 10000 Zagreb

www.pip.hr

e-mail:[email protected]

Telefon:

+385 (0)1 37 38 492

Telefaks:

+385 (0)1 37 38 073

42

Page 43: vinum.in no.7

„…najveću osebujnost pokazuje tvrtka PIP d.o.o.

iz Zagreba, koja sjedinjuje hrvatsku tradiciju i

proizvodnju likera i modernu tehnologiju, izrađu-

jući nekoliko proizvoda koji sadrže bogatstvo re-

sursa, što se odražava u pićima svojstvene arome.

Proizvod ove tvrtke Ambrozija, kao da je spojio

cijelu povijest hrvatske proizvodnje pića, od ilirske

medovine do suvremenih biljnih liker,a čije korije-

ne nalazimo u samostanima, a sadašnjost u jakim

industrijskim pogonima…“.

Pa otputujmo malo u prošlost i postavimo pi-

tanje: kako su Iliri proizvodili prvu medovinu,

koju su po nekim izvorima na svom jeziku zvali

medos? To, na žalost, možemo samo nagađati,

jer o tome nema izvornih zapisa. Po nekima, me-

dovina je nastala alkoholnim vrenjem zagrijanog

razrijeđenog meda, koji je dugo bio glavno sla-

dilo, sve do pronalaska postupka za vađenje sla-

dora iz šećerne trske i repe. No poznato je da su

Iliri i sadili: najprije pšenicu, koja je bila osnovna

kultura, a onda i ječam, proso, mahunarke, bob,

grašak i leću. To se da zaključiti po nalazima

sjemenja i plodova na raznim arheološkim na-

lazima Poznato je da su Iliri poznavali više vrsta

piva, te da su pravili ovo piće i od pšeničnog sla-

da. Prihvatljiva je i teza da su Iliri pšenici ili ječ-

mu, (a možda i nekoj drugoj žitarici), u vrijeme

vrenja dodavali med koji su skupljali u prirodi.

Med je najvjerojatnije pridonio da ovo piće ima

veći postotak alkohola i poseban okus. Neovisno

kojoj pretpostavci ćemo se prikloniti, nepobit-

na je činjenica da medovinu možemo držati (uz

pivo) prvim alkoholnim pićem na našim prosto-

rima. Kad su se Hrvati doselili u nove krajeve,

došli su noseći znanje proizvodnje medovine,

a imali su i naviku uživanja u ovom piću. Kod

mnogih se naroda, i onih najstarijih, medovina

držala napitkom besmrtnosti, simbolom svih

blagodati, koja po mnogim vjerovanjima teče

potocima na drugom svijetu. Staro, ispravno je

vjerovanje da med čuva zdravlje i produžuje ži-

vot, te da pomoću njega nestaju sve bolesti. Proi-

zvodnja medovine je zamrla kada su Hrvati, kao

ratarsko-stočarski narod, brzo prihvatili uzgoj

vinove loze i vino je zamijenilo medovinu.

Iz prošlosti se vratimo u naše vrijeme, jer je me-

dovina sigurno dio naše povijesti, ali i sadašnjo-

sti, a vjerojatno i naša budućnost. Već sada, na

tržištu u Hrvatskoj nudi se desetak medovina

(Badel 1862, Maraska, Herba Dalmatica itd ), a

tvrtka PIP d.o.o dalje razvija paletu mednih na-

pitaka. Tako uz Sv.Abrozija sada proizvodi Me-

donu- liker od meda, umiljata okusa i imena, te

Pater- staru medicu, tradicionalni hrvatski liker

od meda. Na kraju logički zaključujemo da bi

bilo bolje u budućnosti piti piće naših pradjedo-

va, dobivenog od domaćih sirovina, nego uvozna

pića sumnjivog podrijetla i kvalitete.

of beer and that they made this drink from wheat sugar as well. The hypothesis that the Illyrians during the process of fermentation, added honey that they collected in nature to wheat and barley (and maybe other cereal crops as well), is also ac-ceptable. Honey probably contributed to the fact that this drink had a higher percentage of alco-hol and a particular flavor. Regardless of the fact which of these hypotheses we find more believ-able, it cannot be denied that mead (along with beer) can be considered as the first alcoholic bev-erage on our soil. When Croats first came to the new territory they already possessed the knowl-edge of mead production, and they were also al-ready in the habit of enjoying this drink. Many peoples, even the most ancient ones, considered mead to be the drink of immortality, the symbol of prosperity, which, according to many beliefs, can be found in abundance in the afterlife. The belief that honey preserves good health, prolongs life and eradicates illnesses is old but correct. The production of mead ceased when Croats as an ag-ricultural and cattle raising people, embraced the cultivation of the wine grape and thus wine re-placed mead. Let us return now to present day, be-cause mead is certainly a part of our history but it is a part of our present and probably our future as well. Today, there are already ten different meads on the Croatian market (Badel 1862, Maraska, Herba Dalmatica etc.) and PIP d.o.o. firm contin-ues to broaden the range of their mead products. And thus apart from St. Ambrose, it also now produces Medona – honey liqueur, characterized by a pleasant taste and name and Pater, the old medica – the traditional Croatian honey liqueur. In the end we logically conclude that it would do

us more good in the future to drink the drink of our forefathers made from

our own resources than imported drinks of

dubious origin and quality.

PIP d.o.o. Bijenik 158

HR 10000 Zagreb

www.pip.hr

e-mail:[email protected]

Telefon:

+385 (0)1 37 38 492

Telefaks:

+385 (0)1 37 38 073

rrenenjjvrvr

M d MeM d d

veveććići p pći

kokokojojojojoj jjj

nanan j jjeee

pipipipipipipipipppp vovovovvovovoo)))))))

iriririririmamamama

ddoddodododdodododododododooodododdd šlšlššlšlššššlšlšlšlšlšlllš iiiiiiii

aa imimimimaaaa

mno

drdrd žaž l

blblblblblbblblagagagagagagagggggoooooo

ppopotootoccc

vjvjvjererooo

vovott, tt t

zvzvzvodododo

raratataarr

vivivivivivivinononononononovvvvvvv

IzIzIzIz p p rr

dodoovivinn

ststststii,i,i,i, a a a a

trtržižižišštštt

(B(B(B(B(B(B(BBadadadadadadad

tvtvtvrtrtrtrtkkkk

pipitatak

dodonunu

PPaPaPaPaatteteteterrr

odd m

bilo b

va, dd

pip ćaaa

d.o.o.o firm ccontntiiHeHerbaaaa DDDaDalmlmatataa iciccca a a etc.) and d PPIP P dd ttiininirr memememeadadadadd ppp p pproor duduuccts.s.s ueues s totoo bbbb broroadadenen t ttheheeehhehe r r anannggege oo ooooof f ff thththeieieieir

brossee, i itt alallalsosoo n nowow AnAnd d thththhususus a aaapapapap rtrtrt fffrorrooomm m StStSt.. Ambruueueur,rr,r cc c chahahah rarararactctctctererizizedededed prprododucuccceeses MMede onna a – hohoneneneey y liquqaandnddnd P PPPatatata ererer, ,, tthththe e e e olold d d d bybyb a a pppplleleleaasant t ttasts e eee anandd d nname

oatattiaiiaian nn hohohohonenenen y y y y liliquququeeueur.rrr mmememem ddiiccccaa – tthehe t traradidititiononalaalal C Croroacluluded t thahaattt ititititit ww wwwwoouououuuuuouu dldldldldddldldlddlddddldldldddd dddd d dd dddddddddddddooooooooo oo oIIInnInInInn ttt thehehehe eend we lol igicallllyy cooncncll

uutututututuurerererererereer ttttttttt tooooooooooo o dddrdrdrdrrdrddrdrddrdrdriiiiiiiininininnnninnninninnkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk k kkkkk k hththhthhthhthththththeee ee eeee dddddrdrdrdrddrd iiinininninninkkkkkk kkk k ususuuu mm orore gogoodod in tn ththee fufufuttturururuur fffff fforororororrefeffefefefefaatatatatatttathehehheheeeheeheheheheeherrrrrsrsrs mmm ddddadade ee ffrfrfrromomomom fffoffofoff oo oouuuu

ouououourr rrr oowowwwwn n nnn rererereresossoososo rururceec ss thhhtt anana imimpopopoporrrtr eded dririnknknkss s oofoff

dudududuubibiouous ororrorigiggginn ananananaandd d d ququququq allalalala ittiti y.yy.yyy

43

Page 44: vinum.in no.7

Kraljevo brdo i Busija lokacije su na kojima

vinarija Iuris uzgaja Sauvignon Blanc. Vi-nifikacija se radi pomalo neuobičajeno za

tradiciju, pa je čini kombinacija od 80 % inoxa i 20 % bačvice od slavonskog i francuskog hrasta, te odležavanje 3 mjeseca na talogu „battonage“ metodom. Rezultat je aromatično vino slamnate boje, sa zelenkastim odsjajem, kojeg obilježavaju svježina, poletnost i obilje bazge. Inače, Sauvi-

gnon Blanc je vrsta grožđa zelenkaste boje, koja

vuče porijeklo iz francuskog Bordeauxa. Ime je

dobila prema francuskoj riječi sauvage (‘divlji’) i

blanc (‘bijeli’), i vjerojatno potječe od autohtone sorte s jugozapada Francuske. Danas je zasađen u mnogim vinskim regijama svijeta te se od nje-ga dobiva suho, bijelo, osvježavajuće vino. Ovo grožđe je također sastavni dio poznatih deser-tnih vina iz Sauternesa i Barsaca. Ovisno o kli-matskom području u kojem se uzgaja, okus vina Sauvignon Blanc može varirati, ali bogati travna-

Sauvignon T

he Iuris vinery grows Sauvignon Blanc on the Kraljevo Brdo Hill and Busija. The vini-fication is conducted in a somewhat untradi-

tional manner, made from the combination of bar-rels of 80% stainless steel and 20% Slavonian and French oak, and 3 months of ageing on sediment according to “battonage” method. The result is an aromatic wine of a hay color, with a greenish glow, characterized by freshness, buoyancy, and an abun-dance of elder. Actually, Sauvignon Blanc is a vari-ety of grapes of greenish color that originates from the French city of Bordeaux. It was named after the French word sauvage (‘divlji’) and blanc (‘bijeli’), and is probably a descendant of an autochthonous variety from the southwest of France. Today it is grown in many wine growing regions of the world and is made into a dry, white, refreshing wine. This grape variety also belongs to famous dessert wines from Sauternes and Barsac. Depending on the cli-mate of the area where it is grown, the taste of Sau-

Mir

isn

o b

og

ats

tvo

Sa

uvi

gn

on

aTh

e ri

ch fr

ag

ran

ce o

f Sa

uvi

gn

on

44

Page 45: vinum.in no.7

to – voćni miris se uvijek lako raspoznaje. Sauvi-gnoni svijeta daju manje ili više izražene arome zelenih jabuka, grejpa, šparoga ili svježe trave i isto tako mogu biti manje ili više slatki. Imaju prirodnu visoku kiselost. Iurisov Sauvignon ima nešto više arome vanilije nego što bi se očeki-valo unutar začinskog profila Sauvignona, ali to je rezultat hrastovine i jako je dobro uklopljeno. Primjereno rashlađen, Sauvignon odlično ide uz riblja jela i razne vrste sireva, među kojima posebno preporučuju Chevre. Ovo je jedno od rijetkih vina koje se dobro sljubljuje i sa sushi-jem, a općenito se smatra da je jedno od bijelih vina koje se dobro prati s jako velikim izborom hrane.

Dakle, što god pripremali kod kuće ili naručili u restoranu, ako uz to izaberete Sauvignon Blanc Iuris, ne možete nikako pogriješiti – na dobit-ku ste s ovom prekrasnom harmonijom mirisa i okusa.

Blanc Iurisvignon Blanc can vary, but a rich grassy – fruity

fragrance is always easily recognizable. The Sauvi-gnons of the world have more or less pronounced aromas of green apples, grapefruit, asparagus or fresh grass and can also be more or less sweet. They have naturally high sourness. Sauvignon from the Iuris vinery has a bit more aroma of vanilla than it

would be expected within a Sauvignon flavor pro-file, but this is the result of the oak and is nicely in-tegrated. Adequately chilled, Sauvignon goes great with fish food and different types of cheese, among which Chevre is especially recommended. This is one of the rare wines that goes well even with sushi, and it is generally considered to be one of the white wines that blends well with many different types of

food. Thus, whatever you prepare at home or order in a restaurant, if you choose with that Sauvignon Blanc Iuris you cannot go wrong – you will come out the winner with this exquisite harmony of fra-grances and flavors.

45

Page 46: vinum.in no.7

Dugo se smatralo da Iliri, najstariji sta-

novnici na hrvatskim područjima, nisu

uzgajali vinovu lozu prije nego što su

došli u dodir s Grcima. Ova tvrdnja dovedena

je u pitanje kada su u iskopinama ilirskog nase-

lja Ripači na Uni, uz kalupe za lijevanje bronča-

nih predmeta i glinenih kipova, nađeni i ostaci

vinove loze iz brončanog doba. U ostacima so-

jeničkog naselja nađeno je 17 pougljenih zrna

grožđa različitih sorti. Ovo je nepobitan dokaz

da su Iliri poznavali vinovu lozu, te da je među

voćem, kojim su se hranili najstariji stanovnici,

bilo i grožđe.

U prilog ove tvrdnje ide i nalaz grančica vinove

loze iz sojeničkog naselja Dugiš u blizini mjesta

Otoka, koji leži uz rijeku Cetinu, nedaleko od

Sinja. Nažalost ovi arheološki nalazi otkrive-

ni 1956. god. samo su djelomično istraženi, jer

iskopavanje tog naselja nije nastavljeno. Ipak,

ono malo što se o tom naselju zna, govori o ilir-

skom poznavanju zanatskih (posebno kerami-

čarskih) i poljodjelskih poslova. Osim košta-

nog materijala, pronađen je i veliki broj dijelova

vrčeva ukrašenih ispupčenjima, urezima ravnih

i kosih crta, žljebovima te utisnutim trokutima.

Vrčevi pronađeni na ovom nalazištu upućuju da

su bili namijenjeni za razne tekućine.

Na temelju ovih nalaza, suvremeni autori su po-

stavili tezu da su u našim krajevima Iliri već u

brončano ili željezno doba, prije dolaska Grka,

poznavali vinovu lozu. O tome je pisalo neko-

liko autora ( Aleksandar Stipčević i Branimir

Gabričević) a Prof. Dr. Marin Zaninović u

radu „Iliri i vinova loza“ (Godišnjak, Centar

za balkanološka ispitivanja 13 /1976) iznosi do-

sta argumentirano mišljenje da se vinova loza

„na našoj obali uzgajala davno prije Grka i vino

je podjednako tako bilo piće Ilira i Grka“

Daljnja arheološka otkrića daju nove argumen-

Vino u pogrebnim običajima

Povijest vinogradarstva i vinarstva

Vinogradarstvo je počelo Viticulture

Piše: / Written by: Želimir Bašić

DaDaDD

46

Page 47: vinum.in no.7

It was believed for a long time that the Illyri-

ans, the earliest inhabitants of the Croatian

areas, had not grown vines before they come

into contact with the Greeks. This claim has

been questioned when the remains of vine from

the Bronze Age were found in the excavation site

of the Illyrian settlement Ripači na Uni, together

with the molds for casting bronze objects and

clay sculptures. The remains of the lake-dwelling

settlement contain 17 charred grapes of different

sorts. This is irrefutable evidence that the Illyri-

ans were familiar with grapes, and that among

the fruits, with which the oldest inhabitants were

fed, were also grapes.

This theory is strengthened with the discovery

of grape vine twigs from the lake-dwelling set-

tlement Dugiš in the vicinity of the settlement

Otok, which is situated on the bank of river Ce-

tina, near Sinj. Unfortunately, these archaeolo-

gical findings discovered in 1956 have only been

partially explored, because the excavation of this

settlement was not continued. However, the little

we know about this settlement suggests that the

Illyrians were familiar with the crafts (especially

pottery) and agriculture. Apart from bone mate-

rial, a large number of jug fragments was found,

which were decorated with humps, straight and

slanted cuts, grooves and impressed triangles.

Jugs found at this site indicate that they were in-

tended for various liquids.

Based on these findings, contemporary authors

suggest that, in our country, the Illyrians were

familiar with grape vines before the arrival of

the Greeks, in the Bronze or Iron Age. Several

authors have written about this (Aleksandar

Stipčević and Branimir Gabričević) and prof.

Marin Zaninović, PhD in his work “The Illyri-

ans and the vine” (Yearbook, Centre for Balkan

Studies 13/1976) presents a well argumented

opinion that vine “had been grown on our coas-

tline long before the Greeks, and, thus, wine was

Wine in burial customs

The history of viticulture and wine making

s ILIRIMA began with the ILLYRIANS

waaas ss ss s

47

Page 48: vinum.in no.7

te za ovu pretpostavku. Najznačajniji dokaz

da su Iliri - Liburni poznavali vinovu lozu je

grožđano sjeme nađeno prilikom istraživanja

liburnskog grobnog humka u Podvršju kod

Zadra. Istraživanje je izvršila grupa od 25 stu-

denata Filozofskog fakulteta u Zadru pod vod-

stvom profesora Šime Batovića i Sineve Ku-

koč. Oni su 50 cm od površine humka pronašli

sjemenke vinove loze u tri hrpice, oko desetak

centimetara udaljene jedna od druge. Kako nije

bilo nikakvih rupa ili kanalića, isključila se mo-

gućnost o naknadnom nanošenju tog sjemena

(od mrava ili nekih drugih životinja), posebno

zbog toga što je iznad nalaza bio vrlo tvrd sloj

crvenice. Sjemenje je ispitao paleobotaničar

Alojz Šercelj iz Slovenske Akademije znanosti

i umjetnosti u Ljubljani i ustanovio da postoje

najmanje dvije vrste grožđa. Kako se grožđano

sjeme, kao ni 4334 nađena ulomka zemljanih

posuda, nisu mogli povezati uz grobove, a nisu

bili ni grobni prilog, nameće se zaključak da su

se posude koristile u pogrebnom obredu. Ovo

daje novu dimenziju nalazu i nameće zaključak

da Iliri ne samo da su poznavali vinovu lozu i

njene plodove, već su najvjerojatnije grožđe

upotrebljavali i u religioznim obredima, u koje

se uključuju i oni veza- ni za polaganje

pokojnika na podlogu humka ili za

žrtvene obrede.

Ovaj nalaz zanimlji- vo je pove-

zati sa arheološkim o t k r i ć e m

u antičkom gradu A r a u z o n a

(na glavici zva- noj Ve-

lika Mrdakovica u Šibensko- kninskoj župa-

niji) koji upućuje da su Iliri, istina u kasnijem

razdoblju, vino ne samo masovno pili nego i

koristili u pogrebnim ceremonijama. U pro-

nađenim grobovima ovog lokaliteta nađene su

uz spaljene ostatke pokojnika brojne keramič-

ke posude koje su se koristile za vina. Najveći

broj vinske keramike iz ovih paljenih grobova

bio je “namjerno razbijen“ u okviru pogrebnog

rituala, kada se prema običaju vinom gasila po-

grebna lomača i ispijalo ga se u čast pokojnika.

Razbijeno posuđe stavljalo se u veliku grobnicu

ili slagalo oko urne dajući počast pokojniku na

ovakav način. Pronađene vinske posude najče-

šće su bile vinske čaše s dvije ručke (skifos), ali

su pronađeni i vinski pehari aretinskog tipa te

cilindrične čaše.

Pretpostavka o pogrebnom ritualu liburnskog

stanovništva u rimskom razdoblju, ispijanju

vina i razbijanju čaša, nameće potrebu da se

vratimo unatrag na već opisani nalaz u Podvr-

šju kod Zadra. Ovdje je nađen veliki broj razbi-

jene keramike, s tim da nije pronađena nijedna

cijela posuda, a pronađeno je grožđano sjeme-

nje koje je pripadalo različitim vrstama grož-

đa. Nameće se zaključak da se radi o sličnom

pogrebnom obredu. Grožđano sjeme je moglo

48

Page 49: vinum.in no.7

equally drunk by the Illyrians and the Greeks”.

Further archaeological findings provide new

evidence for this assumption. The most striking

evidence that the Illyrians - Liburnians were

familiar with vine is grape seed found during a

research of Liburnian grave mound in Podvrš-

je near Zadar. The research was conducted by a

group of 25 students of the Faculty of Philosop-

hy in Zadar, led by professors Šime Batović and

Sineva Kukoč. They found vine seeds in three

piles 50 cm away from the surface of the mound,

about 10 cm distant from one another. Since the-

re were no holes or channels, the possibility of a

subsequent deposition of seeds (by ants or other

animals) was ruled out, especially because there

was a very hard layer of red soil above the fin-

dings. The seeds were examined by a paleobota-

nist Alojz Šercelj of the Slovenian Academy of

Sciences and Arts in Ljubljana, who concluded

that there are at least two sorts of grapes. Since

neither grape seed nor 4334 clay container fra-

gments that were found could be linked to the

graves or its goods, the conclusion is that the

containers were used during funeral rites. This

adds a new dimension to the findings, and so it

is possible to conclude that not only did the Ill-

yrians know about vine and its fruit, but they

also probably used grapes in religious ceremoni-

es which included laying the deceased in the gra-

ve mound, as well as sacrificial rites.

It is interesting to link these findings to the arc-

haeological discovery in the ancient city of Ara-

uzona (on a knoll called Velika Mrdakovica in

the County of Šibenik-Knin), which indicates

that not only did the Illyrians drink wine in large

quantities, but they also used it in funeral cere-

monies (truth be told, at a later date). In the tom-

bs found on this site, together with the charred

remains of the deceased, a number of ceramic

containers were found that were used for wine.

Most of wine pottery from these scorched tom-

bs was “deliberately broken” during a funeral rite,

when, according to the custom, wine was used to

extinguish funeral pyres, as well as to honor the

deceased by drinking it. Broken dishes were pla-

ced in a large tomb or arranged around the urn,

thus honoring the deceased. Wine containers

that were found were mostly wine cups with two

handles (skyphos), but there were also arretine

wine goblets and cylindrical cups.

The assumption regarding funeral rites of the Li-

burnian population in the Roman period (drin-

king wine and breaking glasses) suggests we

need to go back to the previously described fin-

dings in Podvršje near Zadar. A large number of

broken pottery was found here, but no

containers in one piece, however,

grape seeds were found that

b e l o n g e d to different sorts of

grapes. The conclusion is that

this was a similar kind of a fu-

neral rite. Grape seeds co-

49

Page 50: vinum.in no.7

biti dio taloga pića od zgnječenog i prevrelog

grožđa koje je ispalo iz namjerno razbijene čaše

u oviru pogrebnog rituala. Previše se ovdje ele-

menata poklapa i vjerojatno se zapravo radi o

istom običaju, te utvrđeni pogrebni obred iz

kasnijeg razdoblja može dati objašnjenje za

nalaz u ranijem razdoblju odnosno u Podvršju

kod Zadra. Ako se ovaj zaključak prihvati kao

moguć i logičan, bio bi to još jedan vrlo intere-

santan dokaz da su Iliri u najstarijem razdoblju

ne samo poznavali vinovu lozu već pripremali

vino, te ga koristili u pogrebnim obredima.

Nađeni ostaci raznog oruđa za obradu zemlje,

koji se često pronalaze u ostacima ilirskih nase-

lja, ukazuju na mogućnost da su Iliri mogli po-

znavati i eventualno sakupljati divlje plodove,

ali isto tako i uzgajati vinovu lozu. U neolitičko

doba, od oruđa se najviše upotrebljavala košta-

na motika izrađena od jelenjeg roga. U mla-

đem željeznom dobu upotrebljavale su se že-

ljezne motike, međutim one nisu u potpunosti

istisnule iz upotrebe motike od kosti. Željezne

motike su s vremenom poprimale sve funkcio-

nalniji oblik. Pisac Hesihije spominje “to oeno-

tria” motiku za vinovu lozu, koja je vrlo slična

onoj koja se danas upotrebljava u Dalmaciji,

posebno na otocima, za obradu kameni-

tih vinograda na str- minama. Od

ostalih poljodjelskih oruđa treba

spomenuti pijuk, lopatu, gra-

blje, srp i kosu, dok su prema

nekim mišljenjima Iliri u Dal-

maciji upoznali plug tek

nakon dolaska Rimljana. Dok se još raspravlja

o tome da li su Iliri poznavali postupak pripre-

me vina, nesporno je da su Iliri već u pretpovi-

jesno doba proizvodili alkoholna pića i uživali

u njima, posebno u nekoj vrsti piva (sabaium)

i medovini, koju su nazivali medos. Prema za-

pisima starih antičkih pisaca, Iliri su bili “veli-

ki pijanci”. Tako jedan od njih piše da je ilirski

kralj Gencije “bio pijan danju i noću”, a njegov

predhodnik na prijestolju Agron umro je 230.

godine prije Krista zbog prekomjernog uživa-

nja u piću. Grčki pisac Teopomp vrlo slikovito

je opisao ilirske pijanke. Tako je između ostalog

naveo „…sjedili su da piju i kako su pili tako su

sve više opuštali pojaseve. Potpuno pijane vodi-

le su ih kućama njihove žene koje su i same su-

djelovale u tim bakanalijama”. Prof. Vjekoslav

Klajić opisuje Ilire slijedećim riječima: ”Osim

međusobne nesloge, pokazuju ilirska plemena i

druge mane. Naročito su bili na glasu kao ljute

pijanice. Ardijejci su održavali pijanke gotovo

svaki dan, dok su im poslove na polju i druge

obavljali kmetovi kojih je u njih bilo do 300 000”.

Na temelju iznijetog, ne može se isključiti mo-

gućnost da su Iliri bili prvi uzgajivači loze, po-

sebice oni koji su živjeli uz obalu. No, sigurno

je da će neki novi arheološki nalazi ovo pitanje

još više rasvijetliti.

50

Page 51: vinum.in no.7

uld have been a part of the lees made of crushed

and overly fermented grapes that fell out of a de-

liberately broken cup during a funeral rite. Too

many elements match here and we are probably

discussing the same custom, so the confirmed

funeral rite from the later period may provide an

explanation for the findings in the earlier peri-

od, i.e. in Podvršje near Zadar. If this conclusion

is accepted as possible and logical, it would be

another very interesting evidence that the Ill-

yrians not only knew about vine in the earliest

period, but they also made wine and used it in

funeral rites.

Various farmer tool remains that were found,

mostly in the remnants of the Illyrian settle-

ments, suggest that the Illyrians might have

known about wild fruits and collected it, and

also grown vine. In the Neolithic Age, the to-

ols that were mostly used were bone hoes made

from deer antler. In the early Iron Age, iron hoes

were used, but they did not completely replace

bone hoes. In time, iron hoes assumed a more

functional form. Writer Hesihije mentions “to

oenotria’’ hoes for vine, which are very similar

to those used today in Dalmatia, especially on

islands, for the treatment of rocky vineyards on

the slopes. Among other agricultural tools, it is

necessary to mention pick, shovel, rake, sickle

and scythe, however, according to some sources

the Illyrians in Dalmatia started using plough

only after the arrival of the Romans.

Even though the discussion whether the Ill-

yrians knew the process of making wine or not

continues, there is no doubt that the Illyrians

made alcoholic beverages in prehistoric times

and enjoyed them, especially some kind of beer

(sabaium) and mead, which they called medos.

According to the records of ancient writers, the

Illyrians were “heavy drinkers”. So one of them

writes that Illyrian king Gencije “was drunk day

and night”, and his predecessor Agron died in

230 BC of excessive drinking. Greek writer The-

opompus described the Illyrian drinking spree

very vividly. Thus, among other things, he wrote

“...they would sit to drink and as they drank they

would unfasten their belts. They were taken home

completely drunk by their wives who were also in-

volved in this Bacchanalia’’. Prof. Vjekoslav Kla-

jić describes the Illyrians in the following way:

“Apart from the discord between them, the Illyrian

tribes show other defects. In particular, their repu-

tation for heavy drinking. The Ardiaei had drin-

king binges almost every day, while their work in

the field and other was performed by serfs, some

300 000 of them’’.

Based on everything mentioned previously, one

cannot exclude the possibility that the

Illyrians were the first vine growers,

e s p e c i a l l y those who lived

along the co- ast. However, some

new archa- eological findings

will surely further clarify this

issue.

51

Page 52: vinum.in no.7

52

Mal

vasi

ja D

ubr

ovač

ka

varie

ty

Mal

vasi

ja

Du

brov

ačka

var

iety

Konavoska vinska rapsodija

A whine rhapsody from Konavle

Page 53: vinum.in no.7

To je vrlo rijetka i stara sorta vinove loze.

Njezina vina nalaze se već početkom 15.

stoljeća na stolovima dubrovačke vlastele.

Ovo čuveno vino ima izuzetnu aromu i bouqu-

et u kojima se očituje bogatstvo sorte, klime i tla

konavoskog vinogorja. Ovo suho vino s 12,8 %

alkohola najbolje ide rashlađeno uz hladna pre-

djela, bijelu i plavu ribu te ostale plodove mora.

.Zinfandel “Crljenak”

Svjetski poznata sorta crnog grožđa podrijetlom

iz Hrvatske, crljenak ili zifandel se danas najviše

uzgaja u kalifornijskim dolinama Napa Sonoma,

i genetski je ista kao Kaštelanski Crljenak. Daje

opojno vino s izraženom notom slatkog sočnog

voća, maline, porta i marmelade od kupina. Ovo

suho vino s 13,3 % alkohola izvrsno ide uz jed-

nostavnija mesna jela, kao i roštilj, divljač i tvrde

sireve.

Merlot

Ova francuska sorta rasprostranjena je po cije-

lom vinogradarskom svijetu. Kod nas je prepo-

ručen kultivar koji daje vina rubin crvene boje,

arome trešnje i šumske maline, bogat alkoholi-

ma. Nosi 13,1 % alkohola i najbolje ga je servi-

rati na 14- 16 °C. Odlično ide uz sva mesna jela

i roštilj.

53

This is a very rare and old grape variety.

Wine from this variety was served in di-

ning rooms of Dubrovnik’s aristocracy

already at the beginning of the 15th century.

This famous wine has an exquisite aroma and

bouquet that reflect the richness of the variety,

climate and soil of the winegrowing area of Ko-

navle. This dry wine with 12,8 % of alcohol goes

best chilled with cold hors-d’oeuvres, white and

blue fish and other sea food.

Zinfandel “Crljenak” variety

The world famous variety of red grapes origina-

ting from Croatia, crljenak or zinfandel is today

mainly grown in Napa and Sonoma valleys in

California and is genetically the same as Kašte-

lanski Crljenak variety. It gives an intoxicating

wine with a note of sweet juicy fruit, raspberries,

Port and blackberry marmalade. This dry wine

with 13,3 % of alcohol goes well with simpler

meat dishes, as well as barbecue, game and hard

cheese.

Merlot

This French variety is widespread in the entire

winegrowing world. In our country it is a reco-

mmended variety that gives ruby red wines, of

cherry and wild raspberry aroma, rich in alco-

hol. It has 13,1 % of alcohol and is best served at

a temperature of 14-16 °C. It goes excellent with

all meat dishes and barbecue.

Marinović-Konavle d.o.o

Pero Gjurić, 20217 Pridvorje, Tel.: 098/428-836, 358-338,

[email protected]

Page 54: vinum.in no.7

U hotelu The Regent Esplanade održan je 5.

Međunarodni festival vina i kulinarstva,

najveće hrvatsko okupljanje vinara, eno-

loga, ugostitelja, sommeliera, hotelijera, ali i svih

ostalih zaljubljenika u vino i hranu. Važan vinski

i kulinarski događaj prvoga dana otvorio je mi-

nistar poljoprivrede Petar Čobanković.

Tijekom dva dana posjetitelji su mogli degustira-

ti razna vina i kulinarske delicije iz čitavog svi-

jeta. Tako je ove godine sudjelovalo više od 200

izlagača iz Hrvatske, Slovenije, Srbije, Francuske,

Mađarske, Bosne i Hercegovine, Makedonije,

Čilea, Australije, Južne Afrike, Sjedinjenih Ame-

ričkih Država i Novog Zelanda. Predstavljeno je

više od tisuću vina, a uz vinare predstavljene su

i delicije poput pršuta, sireva, tartufa, maslina i

maslinovog ulja. Izlaganja su se održala u svim

dvoranama hotela (Smaragdna dvorana te dvo-

rane Istambul, Venice i Paris), kao i ispod šatora

na terasi Oleandar.

Međunarodni festival vina ikulinarstva održan u Esplanadi

54

Page 55: vinum.in no.7

The 5th international festival of wine and

culinary art, the largest Croatian assembly

of winemakers, enologists, caterers, wine

stewards, hotel operators, but also of all the ot-

her wine and food lovers, was held at The Regent

Esplanade Hotel. The important wine and culi-

nary event was opened on the first day by Petar

Čobanković, the minister of agriculture.

During those two days the visitors had the op-

portunity to taste various wine and culinary de-

International festival of wine and culinary art held at the Esplanade Hotel

licacies from all over the world. And so this year

more than 200 exhibitors from Croatia, Slove-

nia, Serbia, France, Hungary, Bosnia and Her-

zegovina, Macedonia, Chile, Australia, South

Africa, the USA and New Zealand participated

in the event. More than a thousand different wi-

nes were presented, and along with winemakers

delicacies such as pršut (ham), cheese, truffles,

olives and olive oil were presented as well. Pre-

sentations were held in all the halls of the hotel

55

Page 56: vinum.in no.7

Veliki interes vladalo je za vinskim te gastro-

nomskim radionicama. Na njima su posjetitelji

mogli naučiti koje vino najbolje odgovara kojoj

vrsti hrane, kako odabrati čašu za pojedino vino,

kako ispravno držati čašu itd.

Tijekom ovih pet godina, festival je postao vode-

će mjesto kojim se promiču autohtoni hrvatski

proizvodi te kultura stola, a brojni izlagači i po-

sjetitelji, koji na njega stižu čak i iz inozemstva,

ispunjavaju važnu ulogu u promociji hrvatskog

turizma i promociji grada Zagreba.

Festival je protekao i u humanitarnom ozračju.

Večer prije otvaranja organizirana je humanitar-

na gala večera s aukcijom 30 rijetkih i arhivskih

vina tijekom koje je prikupljeno 80 000 kuna za

Odjel za onkologiju Klinike za dječje bolesti u

zagrebačkoj Klaićevoj ulici.

Čestitamo organizatorima i radujemo se sljede-

ćem festivalu !

(the Emerald Hall, the Istanbul Hall, Venice and

Paris), as well as under the tent on the Oleander

terrace. Wine and gastronomy workshops draw

huge interest. In workshops, visitors could learn

which wine goes best with which type of food,

how to choose glasses for different wines, how to

properly hold a wineglass, etc.

Over these last five years, the festival became a

leading place for the promotion of the autocht-

honous Croatian products and table manners,

and numerous exhibitors and visitors, which

come to the festival even from abroad, play an

important role in the promotion of Croatian to-

urism and the city of Zagreb.

The festival had a humanitarian aura. The night

before the opening a humanitarian gala dinner

was organized with the auction of 30 rare and

archive wines during which the sum of 80 000

kuna was collected for the Department of Onco-

logy of the Children’s Hospital in Klaić street in

Zagreb.

We congratulate the organizers and look forward

to the next festival.

56

Page 57: vinum.in no.7
Page 58: vinum.in no.7

SVJEŽE I LAGANOCviček ptp Vinskog podruma Krško oduševljava blagim

okusom visoke kvalitete. Njegovo je obilježje svijetlo

crvenkasta boja rubinskog odsjaja, ugodna svježa voćna

aroma koja podsjeća na maline, jagode i ribiz. To je suho

vino s niskim postotkom alkohola, do 10,0 vol. %, u

kojemu se ogleda dolenjski kraj. Lagano, svježe, pitko, a

ujedno i živahno, cviček ptp je vino suvremenog čovjeka.

Budući da ne sadrži neprovreli šećer, ovo je vino prikladno

i za dijabetičare.

ZAŠTIĆENO U EUROPSKOJ UNIJIDanas je cviček zaštićen u Europskoj uniji oznakom ptp,

priznati tradicionalni naziv, što mu osigurava visoku

kvalitetu i stroga pravila po kojima se može proizvoditi

samo u svojoj jedinoj domovini, Dolenjskoj u Sloveniji.

Zbog toga je posebnost među vinima u slovenskim i

svjetskim mjerilima jer je jedinstven i drugdje neponovljiv.

SLAGANJE S MNOGIM JELIMACviček ptp Vinskog podruma Krško stvara prilike

za ugodno druženje i razigranost. To je izvrsno vino

za svaki dan, prikladno za suvremeni životni stil i

kulinarske užitke u raznim prigodama. Odlično se

slaže s brojnim jelima jer svojom lakoćom i živahnošću

nadopunjuje mnogo različitih okusa, a osobito dobro

pristaje uz suhomesnata i mesna jela. Najbolju aromu

razvija ako ga poslužimo ohlađenog na temperaturi

13 —15 °C.

OSIGURANA KVALITETA Cviček ptp pripremili smo za Vas u buteljama od litre

i tri četvrtine litre, koje ćete prepoznati po etiketi na

kojoj je dio našega dvorskog vinskog podruma, glavnog

cvičkovog podruma. Kvalitetu dokazuju brojne nagrade

i priznanja koja prima cviček ptp Vinskog podruma

Krško.

Cviček ptp je sinonim za Dolenjsku i Sloveniju i

prava je vinska posebnost, kojoj teško možemo

naći premca, čak i u svjetskim razmjerima. To

je vino s bogatom višestoljetnom tradicijom,

proizvedeno od crnih i u manjoj mjeri bijelih

sorata koje dozrijevaju u vinorodnom kraju

Dolenjske. U cvičku ptp Vinskog podruma Krško

prevladava žametna črnina, slijedi frankovka, a

od bijelih sorata kraljevina, laški rizling, zeleni

silvanac i žuti plavac. Upravo ta kombinacija

sorata daje mu omiljen okus.

Na Vaš zahtjev, s veseljem ćemo Vam pružiti sve dodatne informacije.

Dobrodošli u svijet cvička ptp, vinske posebnosti!

O D U Š E V I T E S V O J E G O S T E I K U P C E C V I Č K O M P T P !

Page 59: vinum.in no.7

FRESH AND LIGHTCviček PTP from the Krško wine cellar excites with its mild flavor of high quality. Its main characteristic is light red color of ruby glow, a pleasant, fresh, fruity aroma that reminds of raspberry, strawberry and currant. This is a dry wine with a low percentage of alcohol, up to 10,0 vol. %, which reflects the area of Dolenjska. Light, fresh, smooth and at the same time also lively, Cviček PTP is the drink of a modern person. As is does not contain unfermented sugar, this wine is also suitable for diabetics.

PROTECTED IN THE EUROPEAN UNIONCviček is today protected in the European Union with a ptp mark, a recognized traditional title, which assures Cviček a high quality and protection with strict rules which state that it can only be manufactured in its place of origin, Dolenjska in Slovenia. This is what makes it a unique wine both in Slovenia as well as worldwide, because it truly is unique and inimitable.

CVIČEK BLENDS WELL WITH MANY DISHESCviček PTP from the Krško wine cellar creates an opportunity for pleasant companionship and buoyancy. This is an excellent wine for everyday, suitable for modern way of life and culinary pleasures for every occasion. It blends well with many dishes as it supplements many different flavors with its lightness and vivaciousness, and it goes especially well with smoked and cured meats and other meat dishes. Its best aroma is developed when served chilled at a temperature of 13 – 15 °C.

GUARANTEED QUALITYWe have prepared for You Cviček in one liter and 0.7- liter bottles, which you will be able to recognize by a label that shows a part of our royal wine cellar, the main cellar of Cviček. The quality is proven by many awards and recognitions received by Cviček PTP from the Krško wine cellar.

Cviček PTP is a synonym of Dolenjska and

Slovenia and is truly a unique wine that cannot

be easily bested even on a world-wide basis.

This wine has a rich, centuries-old tradition,

it is made from red and to a lesser extent white

varieties of grapes that ripen in the winegrowing

area of Dolenjska. In the Krško wine cellar of

Cviček PTP the dominant variety is Žametna

Črnina, followed by Frankovka, and from

white varieties Kraljevina, Laški Rizling,

Zeleni Sivanac and Žuti Plavac. This mixture

of varieties is precisely what gives Cviček its

famous flavor.

At your request, we will provide you with great pleasure with all the

additional information.Welcome to the world of the unique Cviček PTP wine!

DELIGHT YOUR GUESTS AND CUSTOMERS WITH C VIČEK PTP

Page 60: vinum.in no.7

Slovenija je zemlja s bogatom tradicijom proizvodnje

kvalitetnih i vrhunski vina. Bogati prirodni resursi, zna-

nje i ljubav prema vinogradarstvu osiguravaju vina iz-

vrsnih aroma, koja oduševljavaju širom svijeta.

Vrhunskim okusima svježine i tradicije te kulinarskim

doživljajima ugodit će Vam i Dolenjsko vinogorje, do-

movina cvička ptp. Suncem obasjan dinamičan bre-

žuljkast krajolik, plodna zemlja, specifična klima i vri-

jedne ruke pišu svoju priču u raznolikoj paleti izvan-

rednih vina. Kroz stoljeća proizvodnje, vinogradari su

stvorili kvalitetna i vrhunska vina, među kojima po-

sebno mjesto zauzima upravo gotovo svjetska vinska

posebnost, cvitek ptp.

U Dolenjskom vinogorju nalazi se Vinski podrum

Krško, koji još od 1928. godine oduševljava kvali-

tetnim i vrhunskim vinima. Danas je Vinski podrum

Krško najveći proizvođač cvička ptp koji garantira naj-

višu kvalitetu vina. U ugodnom ambijentu dvorskog

podruma s veseljem ćemo Vam predstaviti naša vina i

vinsku posebnost - cvićek ptp.

RAZMAZITE SE VRHUNSKIM OKUSIMA SLOVENIJE!

red

60

Page 61: vinum.in no.7

Slovenia is a country with rich tradition in the produc-

tion of quality and top-quality wines. Rich natural re-

sources, knowledge and love for winegrowing result

in exquisite wine aromas that exhilarate people all

over the world.

The Dolenjska winegrowing area, the homeland of

Cviček PTP will satisfy you with excellent flavors of

freshness and tradition as well as culinary sensations.

A dynamic hilly landscape, bathed in sun, fertile soil,

specific climate and busy hands write their own story

in a diverse selection of exquisite wines. Through the

centuries of production, winegrowers have created

quality and top-quality wines, among which a special

place is held by a unique world wine style of Cviček

PTP.

The wine cellar Krško, situated in the Dolenjska wine-

growing area, has excited consumers ever since 1928

with its quality and top-quality wines.

Today the wine cellar Krško is the biggest manufactu-

rer of Cviček PTP and guarantees the highest quality

of wine. In a pleasant atmosphere of a royal cellar we

will present you with great pleasure our wines and a

wine specialty – Cviček PTP.

SPOIL YOURSELVES WITH TOP-QUALITY FLAVORS OF SLOVENIA!

SLOVENIA THE DOLENJJSKA WINEGROWING AREA

CVIČEK PTPA unique world wine

61

Page 62: vinum.in no.7

62

Page 63: vinum.in no.7

TESKERA VINERY – VRLIKAOperates on an area between three

Dalmatian rivers: Cetina, Krka and Čikola,

and three Croatian mountains: Dinara,

Svilaja and Promina. Teskera family vineyards

are placed between Dinara (1931m) and

Bat peak on Kozjak Mountain (1206 m) at a

height of 400 – 500 meters.

This part of Dalmatian Zagora with its stone

houses, vineyards, country farms,

but also rich cultural heritage, draws

attention: fortresses in Knin, Kijev,

Vrlika and in the area of Drniš, ancient

Croatian sacral localities of Saint Spas

on Cetina, Saint Mary in Biskupija,

sights in Česma (Vrlika) or Otavica of

Ivan Meštović…

The Teskera vinery produces white

and red wines of autochthonous and

introduced varieties.

Wines from domestic varieties

Didovo Bilo Didovo Bilo

wine was made from the most

common variety in the area,

Debit, with a slight addition

of other white varieties, most

commonly Maraština. Didovo

Bilo is a mild wine, very popular

in Dalmatian Zagora, which

blends climatic contrasts of

the winegrowing area – the

freshness of continental wines

and Mediterranean smoothness.

It is characterized by hay to gold

yellow color, by a specifi c fl avor,

fragrance and refi ned bouquet.

Well chilled, it can be consumed

in every occasion, and according

to popular tradition it goes

best with grilled fi sh and roast

lamb, but it also blends nicely

with many other dishes (soups,

shrimps, sea shells).

Maraština A white, complex

wine of a harmonious bouquet, of an

extraordinary beautiful golden color, made

from the best quality of homonymous grape

variety, placed on the list of recommended

varieties in all the regions of Dalmatia.

Maraština is one of the fi rst Croatian

VINARIJA TESKERA – VRLIKAdjeluje napodručju između triju

dalmatinskih rijeka: Cetine, Krke i Čikole,

između triju hrvatskih planina: Dinare,

Svilaje i Promine. Vinogradi obitelji

Teskera nalaze se između Dinare (1931 m)

i kozjačkog Bata (1206 m) na nadmorskoj

visini 400 – 500 m. Ovaj dio Dalmatinske

zagore sa svojim kamenim kućama,

vinogradima, seoskim imanjima, ali

i bogatom spomeničkom baštinom,

plijeni pozornost: tvrđave u Kninu,

Kijevu, Vrlici, drniškom kraju,

starohrvatski sakralni lokaliteti Sveti

Spas u Cetini, Sveta Marija u Biskupiji,

znamenitosti vrličke Česme ili

Meštrovićeve Otavice... Vinarija Teskera

proizvodi bijela i crna vina autohtonih

i introduciranih sorti.

Vina domaćih sortiDidovo bilo Didovo

bilo vino proizvedeno je od

najzastupljenije sorte u kraju,

debita, s manjim dodatkom

drugih bijelih sorata, najčešće

maraštine. Didovo bilo

je blago vino koje je jako

popularno u Dalmatinskoj

zagori, a u sebi stapa

klimatske kontraste vinogorja

– svježinu kontinentalnih

vina i mediteransku pitkost.

Odlikuje se slamnatožutom

do zlatnožutom bojom,

karakterističnim okusom,

mirisom i profi njenim bukeom.

Dobro rashlađen, pije se u

svakoj prilici, a prema narodnoj

tradiciji najbolje se slaže s

pečenom ribom i janjetinom,

ali se dobro slaže i s mnogim

drugim jelima (juha,škampe,

morske školjke).

Maraština Bijelo

kompleksno vino skladnog

bukea, izuzetno lijepe zlatne boje,

proizvedeno je od najkvalitenije istoimene

autohtone sorte grožđa, koja je svrstana

među preporučene u svim dalmatinskim

podregijama. Maraština spada među prva

hrvatska zaštićena vina. Maraština Teskera

je zlatnožute boje s naglašenim ugodnim,

but a

att

Vrlika a

Croati

on

sight

The

and re

a

It

y

W

in

M

ji,

era

nih

an

63

Page 64: vinum.in no.7

samo njoj svojstvenim bukeom. Ovo vino

pije se dobro rashlađeno uza slasne zalogaje

ribljih specijaliteta s gradela, liganja,

puretine i teletine ispod peke, janjetine i

biranih mesnih jela.

Pošip Vino žućkasto-zelene boje s

izraženim sortno prepoznatljivim

mirisom. Pošip Teskera blagog je

alkohola, ponešto izražene kiselosti,

a pije se dobro rashlađen uz ribu,

piletinu i druga laganija mesna jela.

Vina iintroduciranih sorti

Merlot-cabernet sauvignon Crno harmonično

vino, uspješna mješavina dviju

najraširenijih sorti grožđa u

svijetu. Tamnorubin crvene

boje, složenog i harmoničkog

mirisa i okusa. Bit će to dobar

izbor ako svatko jede drugo

jelo, a najbolje prija uz pečenu

janjetinu, zaštitni znak dobre

hrane u kraju.

Syrah Crno, ugodno vino

karakterističnoga mirisa. Kako

stari i zrije, razvija složenije

okuse. Syrah se pije umjereno

rashlađen i posebno prija

uz pečenu puretinu, gusku,

patku, meso i povrće s roštilja,

kobasice, mesne složence i

meso od divljači, ali i sireve.

Syrah barrique Crno,

ugodno vino karakterističnoga

mirisa. Kako stari i zrije,

razvija složenije okuse. Syrah

se pije umjereno rashlađen i posebno

prija uz pečenu puretinu, gusku, patku,

meso i povrće s roštilja, kobasice, mesne

složence i meso od divljači, ali i sireve. Ovo

vino njegovono je u hrastovim bačvama,

odležano u bocama.

protected wines. Maraština Teskera is of

a gold-yellow color with a pronounced

pleasant and unique bouquet. This wine is

consumed well chilled with tasty fi sh food

delicacies from grill, squids, turkey and

veal baked under a baking lid, lamb and a

selection of meat dishes.

Pošip A wine of yellowish-green

color with a pronounced recognizable

fragrance of the variety. Pošip Teskera

has a low percentage of alcohol,

somewhat pronounced sourness, and

is consumed well chilled with fi sh,

chicken and other light meat dishes.

Wines from introduced varieties

Merlot-cabernet sauvignon A red

harmonious wine, a successful

mix of the two most widespread

grape varieties in the world.

Characterized by a dark ruby-red

color, complex and harmonious

fragrance and fl avor. It will be

a good choice if you are eating

diff erent dishes, and it goes

best with roast lamb, and is a

trademark of good food in the

area.

Syrah A red, pleasant wine

of a characteristic fragrance. As

it ages and ripens, it develops

more complex fl avors. Syrah is

consumed moderately chilled

and it goes especially well with

roast turkey, goose, duck, meat

and grilled vegetables, sausages,

meat rolls, game and cheese.

Syrah barrique A red,

pleasant wine of a characteristic

fragrance. As it ages and ripens, it develops

more complex fl avors. Syrah is consumed

moderately chilled and it goes especially

well with roast turkey, goose, duck, meat

and grilled vegetables, sausages, meat rolls

, game and cheese. This wine is kept in oak

barrels, it ages in bottles.od

64

Page 65: vinum.in no.7

Objava d.o.o.Trg dr Franje Tuđmana bb21 236 Vrlika

tel/fax. +385 22 681 030tel/fax. +385 1 6222 466mobitel +385 98 316 806el.pošta [email protected] www.vinarija-teskera.com

65

Page 66: vinum.in no.7

66

Srce

Istr

e, s

rce

Med

itera

na

/ T

he

hea

rt o

f Ist

ra, t

he

hea

rt o

f th

e M

edite

rran

ean

Gerzinic

Page 67: vinum.in no.7

67

Srce

Istr

e, s

rce

Med

itera

na

/ T

he

hea

rt o

f Ist

ra, t

he

hea

rt o

f th

e M

edite

rran

ean

U srcu Mediterana, na bogato osunčanim

brežuljcima zapadne Istre, u plodnoj

okolici Vižinade, u pitoresknim Ohnići-

ma, prostiru se vinogradi i maslinici obitelji Ge-

ržinić.

Geržinići generacijama s ljubavlju njeguju i ople-

menjuju obiteljsku tradiciju uspješno se baveći

vinogradarstvom, vinarstvom i maslinarstvom.

Nekad je to bio dodatan posao u obitelji, a od

2003. godine na dalje, od kada je Marko, enolog

iz najmlađe generacije Geržinića, preuzeo vo-

đenje OPG-a, počelo je podizanje na jednu višu

razinu. Uloženo je u opremu, tj. moderniziran

je podrum i poljoprivredni strojevi, posađeni su

novi nasadi vinove loze i počelo punjenje kvali-

tetnih i vrhunskih vina u boce.

Marko podiže već dosad visoke standarde na

profesionalnu razinu, a brojna priznanja svje-

doče da je ovaj spoj tradicije, upornosti i ljubavi

prema vinogradarstvu pravi recept za uspjeh.

Trenutno obrađuju 6 ha vlastitih vinograda,

koji se nalaze u krugu od 4-5 km od podruma,

a zemlja je crvenica. Od sorata, najzastupljenija

je Malvazija istarska (preko 50%), od bijelih još

Chardonnay i Muškat žuti, a od crvenih Teran,

Refošk, Cabernet Sauvignon i Syrah.

Obrađuju i 2 ha maslina, oko 450 stabala, te pro-

izvode vrhunsko ekstra djevičansko maslinovo

ulje - četvrtu godinu za redom ušli su u najpo-

znatiji svjetski vodič najboljih maslinovih ulja -

Flos Olei.

Vizija im je povećati vinograde na 10-tak ha te

maslinike na 5 ha, te najviše raditi na kvaliteti

proizvoda, kako bi bili što prepoznatljiviji i kon-

kurentni, te naravno najviše istraživati i raditi na

autohtonim sortama loze i masline.

Geržinić vina lako ćete pronaći u renomiranim

enotekama, restoranima i na prigodnim zbiva-

njima diljem zemlje.

At the heart of the Mediterranean, on sunny

hills of west Istra, in the fertile surroun-

dings of Vižinada, in picturesque Ohnići,

lie vineyards and olive groves of the Geržinić fa-

mily.

Generations of the Geržinić family have preser-

ved and enriched their family’s tradition with

their successful winegrowing, winemaking and

olive growing. It used to be an additional busine-

ss of the family, but from 2003 onwards, ever sin-

ce Marco, an enologist from the youngest genera-

tion of the Geržinić family, took over the mana-

gement of the OPG, the business was taken to the

next level. A lot was invested in the equipment,

the cellar and the machinery were modernized,

new grapevines were planted and the filling of

top-quality wines into bottles could begin.

Marko raises already high standards to a professi-

onal level, and numerous recognitions are a testi-

mony to the fact that this combination of tradi-

tion, perseverance and love for winegrowing is a

true recipe for success.

They are currently cultivating 6 acres of their

own vineyards, which are at a distance of 4-5 km

from the cellar, on a red soil. Among the varie-

ties, the most common one is Malvazija istarska

(over 50%), other white varieties are Chardonnay

and Yellow Muskat, and red varieties are Teran,

Refosk, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

They are also cultivating 2 acres of olives, some

450 trees, and are manufacturing first-rate extra

virgin olive oil – this is the fourth year in a row

that they have been put on the list of the world

most famous guide of the best olive oils – Flos

Olei.

Their vision is to increase the size of their vi-

neyards to around 10 acres and olive groves to 5

acres, and to work mostly on the quality of their

products, so as to be even more recognizable and

competitive as well as to research and work on

autochthonous varieties of vines and olives.

You will easily find Geržinić wines in renowned

enoteche, restaurants and at related events aro-

und the country.

Obiteljskopoljoprivredno gospodarstvo

Family farm

Geržinić Marko

Ohnići 9, 52447 – Vižinada

Tel: 052 / 446 285 Gsm: 091 506 75 03

[email protected] www.gerzinic.com

Page 68: vinum.in no.7

Vinarija Boškinac nastala je logičnim slije-

dom stare obiteljske tradicije u proizvod-

nji vina. Naši preci Šuljić-Boškinac brižlji-

vo su podizali vinograde i njegovali proizvodnju

vina stoljećima, te je vinski podrum bio okosnica

obiteljskog načina života.

Tipovi grožđa su se mijenjali, ratovi prohujali

kroz novaljsko polje - ali vinogradi su ostali ne-

izbrisiv izvor opstanka. Vinarija dakle oživljava

obiteljske vrijednosti, ali nudi i nove proizvode i

mogućnosti. Mi danas na šest hektara imamo za-

sađeno oko 30 000 čokota Cabernet sauvignona,

Merlota, Gegića, Chardonaya i Sauvignona. Naša

je misija svakako proizvodnja Gegića, i nastoji-

mo različitim oblicima vinifikacije i odležavanja

proizvesti vrhunsko vino od tog našeg autohto-

nog kultivara.

Naša su vina na tržištu pobudila izniman interes

i tu svakako treba spomenuti naš cuvee C. Sau-

vignon i Merlot, koji se toči u najprestižnijim

hrvatskim restoranima i dobitnik je više naci-

onalnih nagrada i priznanja. Sva naša crna vina

odležavaju u malim hrastovim bačvicama dvije

godine, a na tržište izlaze potpuno zrela nakon

3-4 godine.

Želja nam je da vinoljupci u našim vinima osjete

snagu juga i našeg kamenog otoka, ali i eleganci-

ju pripitomljenog temperamenta, koju postižemo

ne malim naporima koje vinograd od nas traži.

„Boškinac“ je smješten na uzvisini usred guste

borove šume, na rubu vinograda i maslinika uz

ulaz u „Zaglavu“ – tradicionalni kraški teren za

ispašu ovaca.

Neponovljivi balkoni, terase i vrtovi nude pogled

na novaljsko polje koje odiše mirom stoljeća,

koji ćete osjetiti čim uđete u ovu zaštićenu oazu

gdje će vas sve ispuniti nezaustavljivom pozitiv-

nom energijom. Poželjet ćemo vam toplu do-

brodošlicu uz tisućljetnu priču o odnosu čovje-

ka, vina, soli i zemlje. Daleko od gradske buke,

„Boškinac“ nudi oazu mira, aroma, pogleda i

ugode. Posebnu sočnost vašem posjetu će dati

gotovo omamljujući mirisi borova, zaljevskog bi-

lja, jasnima, vrijeska, kadulje, timijana, metvice i

svježeg sijena. Izbor je uvijek dostupan: između

raznih vinskih kultura, divljih ili savršeno obra-

đenih vrtova, posjeta arheološkim iskopinama,

gradskih izleta, te užitaka mora.

Mi vaši domaćini Mirela Šanko, Boris Šuljić i naš

mali Marko, kao i svo naše ljubazno osoblje uči-

niti ćemo sve da vaš boravak u Boškincu bude

nezaboravan, i da s našeg otoka ponesete dio

energije i mira, mirisa i osjećaja koje s vama želi-

mo podjeliti.

Hotel Boškinac

Hrvatska, Otok Pag

53291 Novalja

Novaljsko polje bb

Tel.: +385 53 663500

Fax: +385 53 663501

[email protected]

www.boskinac.hr Pred

stav

ljam

o

Oazausred paške divljine

Hotel i vinarija Boškinac

68

Page 69: vinum.in no.7

Hotel Boškinac

Hrvatska, Otok Pag

53291 Novalja

Novaljsko polje bb

Tel.: +385 53 663500

Fax: +385 53 663501

[email protected]

www.boskinac.hr

Boškinac Vinery was a logical continuation

of an old family tradition of winemaking.

Our ancestors, Šuljić-Boškinac, raised

their vineyards painstakingly and nurtured wine

production for centuries, and the family vineyard

was at the centre of the family’s way of life.

Grape varieties changed with time, wars raged

and swept the Novalja Polje Valley– but vineyar-

ds remained crucial to survival. Vinery rewives

family values, but it also offers new products and

new possibilities. Today, we have 30 000 grapevi-

nes of Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot, Gegić, Char-

donay and Sauvignon varieties planted on six

acres. Our mission is definitely the production

of Gegić and we are trying with different forms

of vinification and ageing to produce a top-qua-

lity wine from our autochthonous variety.

Our wines have incited a lot of interest on the

market and here we should of course mention

our cuvee C. Sauvignon and Merlot, which is

being poured in the most prestigious Croatian

restaurants and is a winner of several national

awards and recognitions. All our red wines age

in small oak barrels for two years, and they are

released to market when they are completely ripe

after 3-4 years.

It is our desire that wine lovers sense in our

wines the power of the south and of our rocky

island, but also the elegance of a tamed tempera-

ment, achieved with no small effort required of

us by the vineyard.

“Boškinac” is placed on an elevation in the midd-

le of a pine forrest, on the edge of a vineyard and

olive-grove at the entrance of “Zaglava” – a tra-

ditional karst terrain for the grazing of cattle.

Unique balconies, terraces and gardens offer a

view of the Novalja field that has a serene aura of

centuries passed, that you will sense the minute

you set foot into the protected oasis where you

will be filled with unstoppable positive energy.

We will wish you a warm welcome with a tho-

usand-year-old story of the relationship of man,

wine, salt and land. Away from the noise of the

city, “Boškinac” offers an oasis of scents, aromas,

view and pleasure. A special flavor to your visit

will be added by almost dazing scents of pine

trees, herbs from the bay, jasmine, heather, sage,

thyme, mint and fresh hay. A selection of various

wine types, wild or perfectly arranged gardens,

visits to archaeological excavation sights, city to-

urs, and pleasures of the sea, is always available.

We, your hosts, Mirela Šanko, Boriš Šuljić and

our little Marko, as well as our entire obliging

staff will do everything in our power to make

your stay at Boškinac unforgettable, so that you

would carry with you from our island some of

the energy and peace, scents and sensations that

we want to share with you.Pres

entin

g

An oasis in the middle

of the wilderness

of the Island of Pag

Boškinac Hotel and Vinery

69

Page 70: vinum.in no.7

Prije 25 godina, posađeni su vinogradi na

najistočnijem dijelu Republike Hrvat-

ske, i to na zapadnim obroncima Fruške

Gore, na idealnim vinogradarskim tlima. Tvrtka

„Agro-Ilok d.d.“ iz Iloka po svom zemljišnom

resursu ima među najboljim vinogradarskim

površinama u kontinentalnom dijelu Hrvatske.

“Agro Ilok d.d.” bavi se proizvodnjom grožđa i

vina pod brandom “Mali Podrumi Ilok”. Osno-

va za proizvodnju je podrum kapaciteta milijun

litara vina, 125 ha vlastitih površina vinograda,

te 400 ha u kooperaciji, sa već odavno tržišno

potvrđenim sortimentom kao što su; Traminac,

Graševina, Rajnski rizling, Chardonnay, Fran-

kovka, te Cabernet sauvignon.

Zapadni obronci Fruške Gore, sa sjevernim

ekspozicijama blago nagnutim prema sjeveru

(prema Dunavu), na položaju Radoš, nadmor-

ske visine od 120-150 m, idealno su stanište za

uzgoj vinove loze. Zemljište tipa prapor ili les s

određenim postotkom krečnjaka, te sjeverna ek-

spozicija i blizina rijeke Dunav sa svojom mikro-

klimom, idealni su preduvjeti za uzgoj svih kva-

litetnih i vrhunskih sorti vinove loze.

25 years ago, on the easternmost part of the

Croatian Republic, on the western slopes of

Fruska Gora, on the ideal vineyard soils the

vineyards were planted .The company “Agro-Ilok

dd” from Ilok is among the best wine growing

areas in the continental part of Croatia, for its

land resources. “Agro Ilok d.d.” is engaged in the

production of grapes and wines under the brand

name “Mali Podrum Ilok”. The basis for the pro-

duction is the cellar with a capacity of one million

liters of wine, 125 ha of vineyard area and 400 ha

in cooperation, with varieties which are already

certified in the market, such as Gewurztraminer,

Riesling, Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, Frankrei-

ch, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The western slopes of Fruska Gora, with nort-

hern exposures slightly inclined towards the nor-

th (towards the Danube), at “Rados” position,

and an altitude of 120-150 m are the ideal habitat

for growing vines. Loess soil type with a certain

percentage of limestone, the northern exposure

and the proximity of the Danube River with its

microclimate, are ideal conditions for breeding of

all quality grape varieties.

70

Mali podrumi Ilok: Dunavsko zlato Gold from Danube

Agro Ilok

Page 71: vinum.in no.7

Exactly these ideal conditions saw the Roman

Emperor Probus before more than 1600 years. He

was born in Sremska Mitrovica, and was issued a

decree that vine can be grown in the former pro-

vince of Illyria. But growing vines in Fruska Gora

and the current Western Sirmium, where Ilok vi-

neyards are, has been known from the time when

the ancient Celts were settled in these areas.

During the Turkish occupation, the famous Tur-

kish traveler Eulije Celebije recorded that he

drank in Ilok the best wine in the former Turkish

Empire. Another record from that time period

is about the quality of wine from Ilok. Austrian

ambassador who traveled down the Danube to

Constantinople, said that he drank in Ilok some

excellent wine and it was better than the Italian

and Spanish wines. The cellar in Ilok was built as

far back as1872 years, dug into a hill and built in

typical style with a brick.

Builded on the well-known quality from ancient

times, the company “Agro-Ilok” has improved the

breeding and production of wine and now is be-

hind a series of successful and award-winning wi-

nes. So, at the last evaluation of wine VINUM IN

2010 at the “Le Meridien Lav” hotel, “Agro-Ilok

picked up 3 gold medals, for Grasevina 2006.,

Grasevina 2008, and Gewurztraminer 2008, and

two silver medals for Riesling 2006 and Gewur-

ztraminer 2007. What can we say but congratu-

lations on the medals and thank you for giving

us an opportunity to enjoy every sip of exquisite

droplets from Ilok.

Da su ovi uvjeti idealni uvidio je prije više od

1600 godina i Rimski Car Probus, rođen u Sri-

jemskoj Mitrovici, koji je donio dekret da se i u

području tadašnje pokrajine Ilirik smije uzgajati

vinova loza. No uzgoj vinove loze na području

Fruške Gore i sadašnjeg zapadnog Srijema gdje

su Iločki vinogradi, poznat je od prije i to za vri-

jeme starih Kelta, koji su naseljavali ova područ-

ja.

Za vrijeme Turske okupacije poznat je zapis ču-

venog Turskog putopisca Eulija Celebija da je

najbolje vino u tadašnjoj cijeloj Turskoj Carevini

pio baš u Iloku. Još jedan zapis iz tadašnjeg doba

isto govori o kvaliteti Iločkih vina .Austrijski po-

slanik koji je Dunavom putovao u Carigrad, re-

kao je da je u Iloku pio izvrsna crna vina, vatrena

i po njemu bila kvalitetnija od talijanskih i špa-

njolskih vina. Mali podrumi u Iloku sagrađeni

su davne 1872 godine, ukopani u brdo i građeni

u tipičnom stilu s opekom.

Nastavljajući se na kvalitetu poznatu na daleko

i od davnina, tvrtka „Agro-Ilok“ je unaprijedila

uzgoj i proizvodnju i danas stoji iza niza uspješ-

nih i nagrađivanih vina. Tako je na posljednjem

ocjenjivanju vina VINUM IN 2010 u hotelu Le

Meridien Lav, „Agro-Ilok“ pobrao čak 3 zlatne

medalje, i to za Graševinu iz 2006., Graševinu iz

2008, i Traminac iz 2008, dok su srebro osvojili

Rajnski rizling iz 2006. i Traminac iz 2007.godi-

ne. Što reći nego čestitati na osvojenim medalja-

ma i zahvaliti se što su nam pružili da uživamo u

svakom gutljaju probrane iločke kapljice.

71

Page 72: vinum.in no.7

A

Page 73: vinum.in no.7

Las Vegas, najpopularniji grad Nevade, aso-cijacija je zabave, kocke, cabareta, vrhun-skih koncerata, jedinstvenih restorana, a za

vinoljupce ima još jednu zanimljivu asocijaciju: restoran ‘Aureole’ i zgodne ‘vinske anđele’ u pri-pijenom odijelima, koji se na sajlama spuštaju niz visoki vinski toranj noseći odabrana vrhun-

Las Vegas is the most populous city in Ne-vada and an internationally renowned major resort city for entertainment, gam-

bling, shopping, cabaret, world class concerts and fine dining. Wine lovers have another in-teresting ‘must visit destination’ in LA: Aureole restaurant and high wine tower with pretty 'wine angels' in tight fitting suits, going down hoo-ked on the cable and carrying selected wines. So, if you have luck to visit Las Vegas, do not

73

Aureole Vinski anðeli Las VegasaWine angels at Las Vegas

Restaurant

Predstavljamo / We present :

Page 74: vinum.in no.7

ska vina. Pa ako vas put kojom srećom nanese u

Las Vegas, nemojte propustiti posjetiti i ovu za-

nimljivu destinaciju.

Restoran ‘Aureole’ u Mandalay Bay Resort &

Casino u Las Vegasu djelo je Charlija Palmera,

jednog od vodećih chefova Amerike i vlasnika

istoimenog restorana u New Yorku. Na uređe-

nju interijera radio je svjetski poznati dizajner

restorana, Adam D. Tihany. Fascinantno osmi-

šljen prostor je oaza koja istovremeno pruža ur-

banu profinjenost, spokojnu eleganciju i kuhi-

nju svjetske klase. Labudovi, zapanjujući cvjetni

aranžmani i vinski toranj su samo neka iznena-

đenja koja očekuju posjetitelje restorana. Kao i u

njujorškom restoranu, posvećena mu je ista ona

pažnja detaljima i besprijekornoj usluzi, upot-

punjena odličnim izborom vrhunskih svjetskih

vina i izvrsnim jelima, te se tako restorani ‘Au-

reole’ ubrajaju u najbolje svjetske gastronomske

destinacije.

Charlie Palmer je jedan od najnagrađivanijih

američkih kuhara današnjice. Kritičari konti-

nuirano hvale njegovu progresivnu američku

kuhinju, zbog odvažnih okusa i dramatičnih

prezentacija. Koristeći najsvježije i nabolje do-

stupne namirnice, Palmerova osobna interpreta-

cija američke kuhinje je kreativna i kapriciozna,

a ipak sofisticirana. Sezone igraju važnu ulogu i

meni se razlikuje ovisno o godišnjim dobima i

dostupnosti namirnica. Neka od prepoznatljivih

Palmerovih jela su sendvič od morskog odreska,

hrskave korice od krumpira ili filet mignon s dr-

venog roštilja uz umak od Caberneta. Treba spo-

menuti i nadaleko poznate i očaravajuće deserte,

svaki je malo umjetničko djelo.

Posebno mjesto u restoranu zauzima 4 kata vi-

sok vinski toranj, površine preko 4m2. Struktura

poput nebodera građena je od čeličnog okvira

obloženog laminiranim staklom. U škrinjama od

pleksiglasa nalazi se 9865 vinskih butelja, a cije-

li unutarnji prostor je adekvatno klimatiziran i

ovlažen.

Inspiriran scenama iz filma ‘Mission impossible’,

Adam D.Tihany je dizajnirao ovaj toranj s me-

haničkim dizalicama koje podižu ‘vinske anđe-

le’ – konobarice gore i dolje duž ta 4 kata, te one

opremljene intercomom, printerom i futrolom

za bocu biraju vino za gosta, a putuju duljinom

od gotovo 13 metara od dna do vrha i obrnuto

duljinom i to za samo 10 sekundi.

Vjerojatno ćete uz svu magiju mjesta, najupe-

čatljivije pamtiti ovo mjesto po ljepoticama u

lateksu koje imaju tablet i s butelju u rukama te

donose izabrano vino iz rajskih visina. Na vama

je da probate.

74

Page 75: vinum.in no.7

miss this interesting point.Aureole at Mandalay

Bay Resort & Casino in Las Vegas is the creati-

on of Charlie Palmer, one of America's leading

chefs and owner of the critically-acclaimed re-

staurant in New York. The interior is work of a

world renowned restaurant designer Adam D.

Tihany. Fascinatingly designed space is an oasis

providing urban sophistication, serene elegance

and world-class cuisine. Swans, stunning floral

designs and a wine tower are just a few of sur-

prises awaiting visitors to the restaurant. The

same attention to detail and impeccable service

that make Aureole in New York City one of the

world’s best dining destinations, paired with the

world-class wine program and exquisite food gu-

arantee that an evening at Aureole at Mandalay

Bay will be a memorable experience.

Charlie Palmer is one of the most highly regar-

ded American chefs today. Critics continually

praise his Progressive American Cuisine for its

bold flavors and dramatic presentations. Using

the freshest and best ingredients available,

Palmer personal interpretation of American cu-

isine is creative and whimsical, yet sophisticated.

Seasonality plays an important role and menu is

different depending on seasons and availability

of food. Some of the most recognizable Palmer’s

dishes include Sea Scallop Sandwiches, Crisp

Potato Crust or Wood-Grilled Filet Mignon with

Cabernet sauce. We must also mention his famo-

us and delightful desserts, each is a little piece of

art. A special place in the restaurant occupies a

four stories high wine tower, with an area of over

4m2. This skyscrapers-like structure is a frame of

a stainless steel fitted with laminated glass. Nine

thousand eight hundred and sixty five bottles are

held in the sandblasted Plexiglas wine racks and

the entire structure is climate controlled to a wi-

ne-keeping ideal of 55�F and 70 percent humi-

dity.

Inspired by scenes from the movie 'Mission

Impossible', Adam D. Tihany has designed the

tower with a mechanical hoists to lift 'wine an-

gels' (wine stewards) up and down along the

four-stories distance. They are equipped with

intercom, printer and a wine bottle holster, and

they bring selected wine for guests, sometimes

traveling the length of the almost 13 feet from

bottom to top and back, and only for 10 seconds.

Along with all the magic that Aureole spreads,

you will probably remember this place for along

because of the beautiful women in latex with

tablet in one hand and a bottle in another, brin-

ging elected wine from the heavenly heights. It is

on you to try.

75

Page 76: vinum.in no.7

Tamo gdje sunce prži kamene stijene, gdje

zemlja žudi za kapljicom vode, gdje more

ima svoj odsjaj, u srcu krševitog otoka

Korčule, u Smokvičkom i Čarskom polju, po-

šip je našao svoje stanište i svoju domovinu. To

je jedna od najstarijih i najcjenjenijih izvornih

sorti bijeloga grožđa i prvo hrvatsko bijelo vino

kojemu je zaštićeno kontrolirano podrijetlo. Po-

šip se stoljećima vezao za korčulanskog težaka,

osiguravajući mu opstanak, a ovaj mu uzvraća

ljubavlju.

U tom stoljetnom vinorodnom kraju, naslonjena

na tradiciju i kvalitetu korčulanskog vinogorja,

od 1995. godine djeluje Poljoprivredna zadruga

Nerica, koja je u posljednjih 15 godina znanjem,

upornošću i radom izvukla iznimnu kvalitetu

pošipa te uz PZ Pošip, PZ Jedinstvo i Vinariju

Krajančić dala svijetu još jedno uspješno lice ove

autohtone korčulanske sorte.

Pošip Pošip Nerica je harmonična simfonija opoj-

nog i prirodnog mirisa, skladnog i raskošnog

okusa.

Svojstvene je žute do zlatno-žute boje, s jan-

tarskim preljevima. Miris mu je ugodan i la-

gano opojan, izrazito vinski. Okus je harmo-

ničan, a posebno oduševljava uživajuća sortna

aroma s laganim voćnim štihom. Servira se

rashlađen, na temperaturi od 11 do 12 ºc, uz

tjesteninu (manistre), različitu bijelu ribu u

bijelo meso (posebno sa žara), juhu od ribe i

druga jela kojima odgovara suho, umjereno

korpulentno vino.

Iznimna kvaliteta Pošipa Nerica prepoznata je

na vinskim natjecanjima: na ocjenjivanju vina

VINUM IN 2010 komisija je Pošip Nericu,

dodjelivši joj najveći broj bodova, proglasila

šampionom bijelih vina. Od srca čestitamo!

Blagodat korčulanske zemlje i kamena

76

Page 77: vinum.in no.7

In the heart of the rocky island of Korčula, where the sun heats the stone walls, where the soil yearns for water, where the sea has its

reflection, in the fields of Smokvica and Čara, pošip found its habitat and its homeland. This is one of the oldest and most respected native varieties of white grapes and the first Croatian white wine which has been protected by con-trolled origin. For centuries, Pošip has been tied to Korčula farmers ensuring their survival, and they have reciprocated to Pošip with their love. In this centuries-old winegrowing, the agri-cultural cooperative PZ Nerica has been active since 1995, leaning on tradition and quality of Korčula vineyards. In the past 15 years, PZ Ne-rica has made an exceptional quality of Pošip using knowledge, persistence and hard work. With PZ Pošip, PZ Jedinstvo and Krajančić Wi-nery, PZ Nerica gives another face of this succe-ssful indigenous variety of Korčula to the world.

h h f h k l d f lh h f h k l d f

Nerica Pošip Nerica is a harmonious symphony of na-

tural and fascinating fragrance and harmonio-

us and rich flavor.

It has characteristic yellow to golden-yellow

color, with shades of amber. It has pleasant

and fascinating flavor , specific for wine. The

taste is harmonious, and especially delights

with its enjoying varietal aroma with light

fruity style. Serve chilled on the temperatu-

re of 11-12 ºc, with pasta, a different whi-

te fish and white meat (especially grilled),

fish soup and other dishes which corres-

pond to dry, moderate and corpulent wine.

Exceptional quality of Pošip Nerica was reco-

gnized on the wine competitions: at the evalua-

tion of wine VINUM IN 2010, the commission

granted Pošip Nerica with the highest number

of points and declared it as the Champion of

white wines. Congratulations from the heart!

Benefit of Korčula’s soil and stone

77

Page 78: vinum.in no.7

DUBINE MU NIŠTA NE MOGU

TAG Heuer 500M Calibre 5 (43 mm) je posljednji dodatak kolekciji Aquaracer i predstavlja sportski

sat namijenjen ekstremnim zahtjevima profi-ronjenja. Model odličnih performansi napravljen

je da traje vječno, luksuzno je obrađen i predstavlja prestižni dizajnerski proizvod. Švicarci ističu

da je najotporniji i najpouzdaniji sat svoje generacije, ali ujedno i profinjen jer se može rabiti za

svaku prigodu i situaciju.

Aquaracer 500M radi na dubinama do 500 metara, a jednosmjerni okretni prsten mu je važan

sigurnosni faktor. Na kućištu od brušenog čelika promjera 43 mm je 6 gumba za lakše rukovanje u

ronilačkim rukavicama, s time da na obojenoj kruni dvostruka brtva štiti od ulaska prašine i vode.

Luminiscentne oznake na kazaljkama i simbolima, te sekundna kazaljka s narančastim vrhom,

olakšavaju očitavanje vremena u tami ili pod vodom. Ima automatski ventil za ispuštanje helija

što je namijenjeno profesionalnim roniocima koji dugo rade na velikim dubinama. Safirno staklo i

poklopac otporni su na ogrebotine, a unutrašnjost kristalnog stakla je antirefleksijski obrađena.

Sat ima TAG Heuer automatski 26-mm mehanizam Calibre 5 (ETA 2836-2), narukvicu (ili remen)

s preklopnom sigurnosnom kopčom, kao i produžetak za nošenje preko ronilačkog odijela.

Aquaracer se može kupiti u splitskim zlatarnicama B. Vama.

BOL D’OR MIRABAUD

presented by CORUM – LIMITED EDITION 35 PIECES

www.b-vama.com

SATOVI CORUM

Ekskluzivan urarski brand CORUM, čija se ponuda sastoji od visokokvalitetnih satova inovativnog

i karakterističnog dizajna, opremljenih sofisticiranim mehanizmom, povećao je proizvodnju

limitarnog izdanja Grand Prix Corum 2010 satova. Ovaj se model prvotno izrađivao samo u 25

komada i to isključivo za švicarsko tržište, da bi uslijed velikog zanimanja i zahtjeva inozemnog

tržišta, Corum povećao proizvodnju na 100 komada. Svaki sat ovog luksuznog branda podvrgnut

je rigoroznim kontrolama kvalitete po najvećim standardima švicarske industrije satova, dok

je raspon modela raspoređen u četiri osnovne linije - Admiral's Cup, Romvlvs, Corum Bridges i

Artisans.

Admiral Cup-ovi satovi prezentiraju drugu generaciju dizajna ovog modela koji je lansiran 1983.

godine. Sat ima prepoznatljivo 12 stranično kućište koje je, kao i brojčanik ukrašeno mornaričkim

oznakama umjesto brojevima. Blizak odnos između Admiral's Cup serije i jedriličarstva proizlazi

iz sponzoriranja Mumm Admiral's Cup regate. Štoviše, samo ime kolekcije bilo je odobreno od

strane Kraljveskog Ocean Racing kluba iz Londona, a serija Admiral's Cup modela dizajnirana u

nekoliko varijanti.

CALIBRE DE CARTIER

Moderan i profinjen, Calibre de Cartier namijenjen je onima koji na ruci žele sat s karakterom i

stilom, a imaju dovoljnu kunsku podlogu da ga sebi priušte. Iz Cartiera posebno ističu kako ga

pokreće njihov prvi samostalno napravljeni samonavijajući mehanizam 1904MC. Osim vlastitog

mehanizma, na njemu se mogu uočiti i ostale značajke satova ove tvrtke: rimski brojevi, crte

za oznake satova na donjem dijelu, prepoznatljivo oblikovane Cartierove kazaljke, te Cotes de

Geneve uzorak na rubovima brojčanika.

Sami brojčanik je promjera 42 mm, a sat ima safirno staklo i nudi se u verziji čelika, kombinaciji

čelika i zlata, ali i u čvrstoj izvedbi od ružičastog zlata. Calibre de Cartier vodootporan je do 30

metara dubine. U Splitu ga prodaje draguljarnica B. Vama.

Page 79: vinum.in no.7

Audemars Piguet Tour Auto Optic 2000 Chronographe Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2010Audemars Piguet već je dugo u strastvenoj vezi sa svijetom automobilskih utrka: ambasadori kuće između ostalih su i automobilski asovi Rubens Barrichello, Jarno Trulli i Sabastien Buemi, a kuća je i službeni mjerač vremena za utrke rallyja Tour Auto. Ovo natjecanje, pokrenuto 1992, danas je jedno od najzabavnijih i najuglednijih u automobilsko-sportskom kalendaru.Kućište promjera 42 mm, automatski mehanizam 2326/2840, re-zerva hoda od 38 sati, kronograf u središtu i brojači za 30 minuta i 12 sati - ovaj model izgleda poput kakvog instrumenta u trkaćem automobilu. Ukrašen crnim i bijelim kvadratićima, model Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2010 ima antracitni brojčanik, crveno-srebrne miniokvire za razne funkcije i kazaljke presvučene fluorescentnim slojem. Kruna je uokvirena zaštitnim prstenom, a gumbi su od kau-čuka, dok se na donjoj strani kućišta kočoperi ukrasni logo klase Tour Auto i natpis Royal Oak - Limited Edition. Remen ovog sata izrađen je od crne perforirane kože, a šivan je ručno. Sat je vo-donepropustan do dubine od 100 m, a za kraj recimo i da kući-šte ima oblik ukrasnog loga Forda GT 40. Dio je ograničene serije od 60 primjeraka, cijena: 25.800 eura.

Malo je u industriji tako trajnih i čvrstih

bračnih veza kao između urara i automobilista -

dakako, ljubav je to iz čistih računa

Blancpain Lamborghini Blancpain Super TrofeoL-Evolution Chronograph Flyback Super Trofeo 2010

Direktor Blancpaina Marc A. Hayek voli Lamborghini gotovo koliko i satove: ‘Od mladosti je Lamborghini ‘moj’ auto. Gledao sam ‘Cannonball’ kada sam imao 12 godina i odonda ljubav prema njemu samo raste...’ Lamborghini

Blancpain Super Trofeo utemeljen je 2009., a Blancpain je i službeni kronometar svjetskog prvenstva FIA GT1. Kućište promjera 43,5 mm od titana, okvir od karbona, brojčanik od karbona, automatski mehanizam kalibar F185 s

funkcijom ‘flyback’, rezerva rada od 40 sati, funkcije sati, minuta, sekunda, datuma (kod oznake za 6 sati), kronografa, brojača za 30 minuta (kod oznake za 3 sata) i 12 sati (kod oznake za 9 sati), remen od kože - i to španjolske alcantare, baš kao i presvlake sjedala Lamborghinija Gallardo - s kopčom od čelika, vodootporan do dubine od 100 m, dio ograničene

serije od 600 primjeraka, cijena 15.670 eura... trebamo li još nešto dodati?

TAG Heuer Monaco Twenty Four

Calibre 36 ChronographIme TAG Heuer gotovo da bi se moglo zamijeniti pojmom automobilizam, koliko

je ova kuća blisko povezana sa svijetom utrka. Ove godine Tag Heur slavi 150 godina postojanja, a izgleda da su u kući odlučili proslaviti obljetnicu tako da još jednom pokažu tko je tko: uz Audi Sport tri se puta našla na pobjedničkom postolju u seriji Le Mans; u Formuli 1 partner joj je supermoćni McLaren; najno-viji pothvat je partnerstvo s tvornicom električnih automobila Tesla Motors u potrazi za ekološki prihvatljivom brzinom.

Kućište: 40,5 mm. Materija: titan. Automatski kronograf Calibre 36. Sustav za apsorpciju vibracija. Funkcije: sat, minuta, sekunda, datum. Nadahnuće:

serija GT, 24 sata Le Mansa, Steve McQueen, Gulf Oil (plava i narančasta boja). Vodootporan do 100 m. Cijena: 8.500 eura.

70 SATOVI

Richard Mille Le Mans ClassicManufaktura Richard Mille partner je rallyja povijesnih automobila s razlogom - dijele klasične vrijednosti i gentlemanski odnos prema natjecanju. Od prve utrke 2002. Ric-

hard Mille je partner priredbe Le Mans Classic, a službeni kronometar bio je čak pet puta. Ta je utrka inače jedna od najuglednijih na svijetu i na stazi u Le Mansu u njoj

sudjeluju ponajbolji klasični automobili. Model njom nadahnut ima kućište promjera 48 mm (48 mm x 39,70 mm x 12,60 mm) koje može biti izrađeno od titana, bijelog ili

ružičastog zlata. Sat ima automatski mehanizam, rotor varijabilne geometrije (što je koncept kojeg je ova manufaktura patentirala) i rezervu rada od 55 sati. Kod

oznake za 2 sata ovaj model ima brojčanik podijeljen na 24 sata - kao 24 sata Le Mansa - a osim toga tu su i funkcije pokazivanja sata, minute, sekunde i

datuma. Brojčanik je izvedene u karbonu sa zelenim i bijelim ukrasnim de-taljima, a sat je vodootporan do dubine od 50 m. Dio je ograničene serije

od 150 primjeraka, a cijena mu iznosi 51.000 eura.Bovet Pininfarina

Tourbillon OttantaZa osamdeseti rođendan, poznati talijanski dizajnerski studio Pininfarina darovao je

sebi i onima koji s njim dijele strast prema savršenstvu poseban model: Bovet Pinin-farina Tourbillon Ottanta. Urarska kuća Bovet i Pinifarina podarili su nam tako sat koji

ostavlja doista malo nade protivnicima - oprostite, konkurenciji - da će ga ikada dostići, a kamoli prestići. Kućište ovog modela ima promjer 46 mm, izrađeno je od titana i če-lika, a dostupno je i u verzijama s detaljima od sivog ili ružičastog zlata. Ukras s osam dijelova predstavlja osam desetljeća studija Pininfarina. Sat pokreće automatski kalibar Bovet 16BA01 s dvosmjernim mikrorotorom, a tu je i predimenzionirani tourbillon od 14 mm, koji se vidi s dviju strana. Model ima rezervu rada od simboličkih 80 sati, s indi-katorom preostalog vremena kod oznake za 9 sati, dok je pokazivač datuma smješten

kod oznake za 6 sati. Tourbillon napravi puni krug svake 3 minute (pokazivač ove funkcije smješten je kod oznake za 3 sata), a sat se može okrenuti na dvije strane,

jer je i donji dio kućišta proziran, te dolazi s titanskim lancem i može se 'pretvo-riti' u džepni sat. Model je vodonepropusan do dubine od 100 m. Cijena zasad

nije poznata, ali se šuška o svotici od 500.000 dolara!

Breitling for BentleyBentley GMT Midnight Carbon SertieBreitling i Bentley javno se vole od 2003, a ove dvije kuće, koje osim vrijednosti dijele i estetiku - logotipi su im gotovo identični - ponose se svojom vezom, koja se smatra jednom od najkoherentnijih u svijetu luksu-znih proizvoda. Breitling for Bentley marka je za sebe, a satovi nastali iz ovog braka naslijedili su ponajbolje od obaju roditelja: snažan karakter, profinjenost, nesklonost kompromisu, velikodušne dimenzije i detalje koji ih izdvajaju iz mase. Ovaj model ima kućište promjera 49 mm, od crnog je čelika, a pokreće ga automatski kalibar 47B. Ima funkciju kronografa, dvostruki brojčanik podijeljen na 24 sata i kalen-dar. Drugi brojčanik ima vlastitu kazaljku prelakiranu crvenom bojom i pokazuje vrijeme u najvećim svjetskim gradovima, dok kronograf omogućava precizno iščitavanje vremena podi-jeljenog na najkraće djeliće. Sat je dio ograničene serije od 50 primjeraka i stoji 17.950 eura.

Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono 2010

Svake godine ova utrka okupi najljepše automobile proizvedene između 1927. i 1957, koje vlasnici ponosno provedu od Brescie do Rima preko Parme, Firence,

Bologne i Siene. Još od 1988. Chopard je partner te legendarne smotre oldtimera i ovaj model posvećen je upravo njoj. Kućište modela ima promjer 44 mm i izra-đeno je od čelika ili ružičastog zlata. Automatski kronometar s certifikatom COSC vidljiv je kroz prozirno dno kućišta, a sat ima rezervu hoda od 46 sati. Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono 2010 ima funkcije sata, minute, datuma, sekunde, brojač od 30 minuta i 12 sati. Dizajn je nadahnut klasičnim automobilima, toč-

nije upravljačkim konzolama: crno-crvena kombinacija automatski asocira na brzinu i cestu, a remen od crnog kaučuka nadahnut je Dunlopovim gumama

iz šezdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća. Kruna modela ukrašena je logom utrke Mille Miglia, a dno kućišta oznakom Limited Edition. Sat je

vodonepropusan do dubine od 100 m. Serija iz 2010. broji 2010 primjeraka od čelika (cijena 6.040 eura) i 250 od

ružičastog zlata (cijena 16.560 eura).

CARTIER, CORUM, BREITLING, GRAHAM, OMEGA, SEIKO, BAUME & MERCIER, TAGHEUER, MONT BLANC

SPLIT RIVA O www.b-vama.com

www.b-vama.com

Page 80: vinum.in no.7

80

Glazba i vino oduvijek su išli zajedno. Ne

samo zbog buđenja vesele komponente

čovjekovog duha nakupljanjem pro-

mila u krvi, već i zbog toga što su upravo po-

sebni trenutci druženja, okupljanja prijatelja,

proslava, sklapanja poslova i sl. bili počašćeni

ulijevanjem vina u čaše i nazdravljanjem, pa

bi se već prisutan duh dobrog raspoloženja

tako lako pretočio i u pjesmu.

Osim toga, dokazano je da tip glazbe koja se

sluša, utječe na doživljaj okusa vina. Profesor

psihologije Adrian North, voditelj istraživanja

o uzajamnom utjecaju vina i glazbe provede-

nog na Sveučilištu Edinburgh, radio je studiju

na 250 studenata i ustvrdio da je aroma crnog

vina jača i bolje prija ako se pije uz ‘jaču i težu

glazbu’, dok su za bijela vina bolje ‘poletne i

osvježavajuće melodije’. Na primjer, dok crno

Music and wine have always gone toget-her. Not just because of the awakening of a man's cheerful component of the

spirit by accumulating alcohol in the blood, but also because special moments of socialising, gathering friends, celebrating, closing business deals and the like, were honoured with pouring wine into glasses and proposing toasts, so a spirit of good mood that is already present was easily turned into a tune.

Besides, it was proved that the type of music one listens to affects the perception of the taste of wine. Psychology professor Adrian North, head of the research into the mutual influence of wine and music conducted at the Universi-ty of Edinburgh, made a study on 250 students and concluded that the aroma of red wine is stronger and tastes better if you drink it with 'powerful and more serious music', while whi-

Our

sugg

estio

n ho

w to

drin

k to

p-qu

ality

Poš

ip b

y the

man

ufac

ture

r PZ

Pošip

from

Čar

a

Pred

laže

mo

kako

piti

vrh

unsk

i poš

ip p

roiz

vođa

ča P

Z Po

šip iz

Čar

e

Ha

rmo

nič

ni u

žita

k P

OŠI

PAu

z d

alm

ati

nsk

u k

lap

sku

pje

smu

Har

mon

ious

ple

asur

e of

PO

ŠIP

with

d

alm

atia

n ha

rmon

y si

ngin

g g

roup

tune

Page 81: vinum.in no.7

81

te wines go better with 'enthusiastic and refre-shing melodies'. For example, while red wine works best with the music of Jimi Hendrix and the Rolling Stones, white wine goes excep-tionally well with the songs of Kylie Minogue and Tina Turner.

Professor Adrian North expects that in the futu-re wine merchants will add to their bottles a

printed recommendation of music that goes best with a particular wine. In one of his earlier stu-dies, he discovered that people are more likely to open a bottle of French wine in comparison to wi-nes from some other parts of the world, if music is playing at the moment of choosing.

And judging by our photos, the Dalmatian har-mony singing group tune fits perfectly top-qua-lity Pošip from PZ Pošip, Čara. The proximity to the sea and a large number of sunny days in the vineyards give peculiarity, class and specificity of Pošip sorts, and wine cult is traditionally rooted in the lifestyle of people in this karst region.

Pošip from Čara with its golden color and an un-forgettable aroma has become not only a reliable indicator that Čara has some of the top-quality vineyard positions on the island of Korčula, but also, for centuries, its flavour has been and still is providing inspiration and encouragement.

Harmony group in the Dalmatian dialect means a circle of friends or a group, and in the context of music it refers to a band with 5 to 8 members. As their songs belong to the most valuable and most prominent part of the Croatian cultural heritage, so Pošip belongs to the tradition and history of this region as an indigenous Croatian sort.

Harmony singing is vocal-harmonic singing that is rarely, discreetly and quietly accompanied by instruments, with which top-quality Pošip from PZ Pošip goes perfectly because of its elegant, oily smooth, balanced and harmonious aroma.

Harmony group songs have a slow, free rhythm, and Pošip has a refreshing drinkability with a no-ticeable minerality.

The theme of their songs is often love, romanti-cally dedicated to the beloved wife, which again goes well with the typically floral and fruity aro-mas of Pošip, enhanced with a discreet vanilla. With the association of the sea, the sun and sum-mer added to that, the pleasure is complete.

We wish you a lot of great moments on your up-coming vacation with a harmony group tune and Pošip from Čara's PZ Pošip, and until these co-uple of months pass - we suggest this wine for a pleasant dinner with friends with whom you can sing with.

vino najbolje razvi-ja svoje djelovanje uz glazbu Jimija Hendrixa ili Rolling Stonesa, bijelo vino djeluje posebno do-bro ako se pije uz pjesme Kylie Mino-gue ili Tine Turner.Profesor Adrian North očekuje da će trgovci vinom ubuduće na bocama imati otisnutu pre-poruku o odgova-rajućoj glazbi koju je najbolje slušati uz dotično vino. U jednoj njegovoj ranijoj studiji, ustanovio je da ljudi radije otvaraju butelju francuskog vina u odnosu na vina iz nekih drugih krajeva svijeta, ukoliko je pri izboru puštena glazba.

A sudeći po našim fotografijama, uz dalmatinsku klapsku ‘pismu’ izvrsno pristaje vrhunski Pošip iz Poljoprivredne zadruge Pošip, Čara. Blizina mora i veliki broj sunčanih dana u vinogradima daju posebnost, plemenitost i specifičnost sorti pošip, a kult vina tradicijski ukorjenjen u kultu-ru življenja ljudi na ovim krškim prostorima.

Čarski Pošip svojom je zlatastom bojom i neza-boravnom aromom postao ne samo pouzdani znak Čare kao jednoga od najkvalitetnijih polo-žaja korčulanskog vinogorja, već je njegov okus stoljećima pružao i još uvijek pruža nadahnuće i poticaj.

Klapa u dalmatinskom dijalektu znači društvo ili grupu, dok se u glazbenom smislu odnosi na sastave od pet do osam članova. Kao što klapske pjesme pripadaju najvrjednijem i najistaknuti-jem dijelu kulturne baštine Hrvatske, tako i po-šip, kao autohtona hrvatska sorta pripada tradi-ciji i povijesti ovog kraja.

Klapska glazba je vokalno harmoničko pjevanje, rijetko, diskretno i tiho popraćeno instrumenti-ma , uz koje se vrhunski pošip iz PZ Pošip ukla-pa svojom elegantnom, uljasto glatkom, uravno-teženom i harmoničnom aromom.

Klapske pjesme imaju polagan, slobodan ritam, a pošip osvježavajuću pitkost s primjetnom mi-neralnošću.

Tematika klapskih pjesama je često ljubavna, ro-mantično posvećena voljenoj ženi, što opet do-bro ide uz tipično cvjetno-voćne arome pošipa, podcrtane diskretnom vanilijom. Kad se tome pridoda asocijacija na more, sunce i ljeto, užitak je potpun.

Želimo vam puno lijepih trenutaka na skoraš-njem godišnjem odmoru uz klapsku ‘pismu’ i pošip čarske Poljoprivredne zadruge Pošip, a dok ne prođe još ovih nekoliko mjeseci – predlažemo upravo ovo vino uz ugodnu večeru s prijateljima s kojima možete i zapijevati.

Page 82: vinum.in no.7

PortoPiše: / Written by: Zvonimir Štimac

82

Page 83: vinum.in no.7

83

Nedvojbeno, Port je najuniverzalnije

među svim vinima. Rjeđi, bijeli Port

izvanredan je kao suhi aperitiv i ljubi-

mac je Engleskog dvora i aristokracije. Ruby

je mlađahan crveni Port, pratilac odabranih

delicija od crvenog mesa i divljači, te naročito

slatkih i sirnih deserta, dok je Tawny u svim

varijantama ( LBV, Colheita, Chrusted Port ili

Garraferia Port) jedinstveni digestiv, ljubimac

izvanrednih cigara i plemenitih čokoladnih

deserta.

Što ga čini tako svojstvenim? Prvo, tradicio-

nalna proizvodnja u dolini rijeke Douro, i to

samo iz 40 dozvoljenih vrsta grožđa od ko-

jih je za vinificiranje bijelog Porta najvažnija

Malvasia Fina, Codega i Rabigato, a za crveni

Port Tinta Barroca, Touriga F, Nacional, Tin-

taRoriz i neke druge.

Drugo, vinierung tj. prekid fermentacije vina

radi se dodatkom 80% vinjaka, i to tako da se

mlađem moštu dodaje više, a starijem manje

vinjaka. Konačna jačina Porta mora biti izme-

đu 18 i 19% volumena alkohola.

Treće, odgajanje Porta na obali rijeke Douro

odvija se preko puta grada Porta, koji je ujed-

no i imenodavac ovoga divnoga vina, u 20000

litarskim bačvama zrije najmanje dvije godi-

ne, sukladno zakonu iz 18 stoljeća koji reguli-

Undoubtedly, Port is the most universal

of all wines. Clearer and whiter Port

is an excellent dry aperitif and is pre-

ferred by the English court and aristocracy.

Ruby is a youthful red Port, accompaniment

to selected red meat and game delicacies, and

especially to sweet and cheese desserts, while

all kinds of Tawny (LBV, Colheita, Chrusted

Port or Garraferia Port) are a unique diges-

tive, and go well with exquisite cigars and rich

chocolate desserts.

What makes it so peculiar? Firstly, the tradi-

tional production in the valley of the River

Douro from only 40 allowed grape sorts, out

of which Malvasia Fina, Codega and Rabigato

are the most important for the production of

white Port, and Port Tinta Barroca, Touriga F,

Nacional, TintaRoriz and some other for the

production of red Port. Secondly, vinierung,

i.e. stopping the fermentation of wine by add-

ing 80% cognac, however, younger must re-

ceives more and older must less cognac. The

final strength of Port must be between 18 and

19% alcohol by volume.

Thirdly, the aging of Port on the coast of the

River Douro takes place across the city of Por-

to, whose name this wonderful wine shares,

in 20 000 liter barrels where it matures for

Page 84: vinum.in no.7

848484

Page 85: vinum.in no.7

85

ra njegovu proizvodnju i dan danas. Nakon toga

odlučuje se daljnja sudbina Porta. U prosječnim

godinama, većina se vina flašira i plasira na trži-

šte kao Ruby. Manje količine miješaju se sa stari-

jim vinom, u malim „ Pipes“ bačvama, i nakon

nekoliko godina flaširaju pod imenom Tawny ili

Fine Tawny.

U godinama nadprosječnog kvaliteta, vino na-

kon vinierunga i pretoka u „Pipes“ dobiva šansu

poboljšati kvalitetu kroz duže odgajanje u bačva-

ma .Nakon kupaže sa starijim godištima, flašira

se kao Old Tawny, Colheita i Reserve, a posebne

kapljice flaširaju se kao LVB, Crusted Port i Vin-

tage Character.

U godinama iznimne kvalitete, koju određuje

komitet Porto vinara (Instituto dos Vihnos do

Douro e Porto), vino će biti priznato kao „Vin-

tage“ i nakon kratkog odgoja u „Pipes“ flaširati

se u tamne boce, u kojima sazrijevaju najmanje

deset godina. A to je tek početak priče o zaista

superiornim portima. Što stariji, to bolji i to sku-

plji. Takav Porto mora se obavezno dekantirati i

po mogućnosti u najkraćem vremenu uživati, jer

dolaskom kisika nakon desetljeća sazrijevanja

u boci, vino se može zakiseliti unatoč stabiliza-

ciji pomoću vinjaka. To se pak ne može desiti

Tawny-u koji je u „Pipesima“ polagano oksidi-

rao i time učvrstio svoju otpornost prema kisi-

ku. Načetu bocu možete mjesecima konzumirati,

ako se možete suzdržati.

Porto se servira u manjim čašama koje imaju

sadržaj od 80 do140ml i kao sherry čaše imaju

formu tulipana. Bijeli Porto se drži u hladnjaku

i servira na temperaturi od 8-11 ºC, neovisno o

tome radi li se o Muito Doce (jako slatkom),

Doce (slatkom), MeioSeco (polusuhom), Seco

(suhom) i Extra Seco (jako suhom) vinu. Crveni

Porto nema takve razlike i servira se: Ruby Port

na 11-14 ºC, a Tawny Port na 11-18 ºC.

888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888885555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555585

at least two years, according to the 18th century

law which defines its production to this day. After

this, Port’s subsequent destiny is decided. On the

average, most wines are bottled and put on the

market as Ruby. Smaller amounts are mixed with

older wine, in small "Pipes" barrels, and after a few

years they are bottled as Tawny or Fine Tawny.

In the years of above-average quality, wine after

vinierung and decanting into "Pipes" can improve

its quality by aging longer in barrels. After mixing

it with older ages, it is bottled as Old Tawny, Col-

heita and Reserve, and special drops are bottled

as LVB, Crusted Port and Vintage Character. In

years of exceptional quality, which is determined

by the Committee of Port wine makers (Instituto

dos Vihnos do Douro e Porto), the wine will be

designated as "Vintage", and after brief aging in

the "Pipes", it will be bottled in dark bottles in

which it will mature for at least ten years. And this

is just the beginning of the story of the really su-

perior Port. The older, the better and the more ex-

pensive. Such Port must be decanted by all means,

and, if possible, enjoyed in the shortest time be-

cause with the arrival of oxygen after decades of

maturation in the bottle, it can get sour, despite

stabilisation with cognac. On the other hand, this

cannot happen to Tawny which slowly oxygen-

ated in the "Pipes" and, therefore, strengthened its

resilience to oxygen. Opened bottle can be con-

sumated for months, if you can abstain.

Porto is served in smaller glasses (80 to 140 ml)

that, like sherry glasses, have the shape of a tu-

lip. White Port is kept in the refrigerator and is

served at a temperature of 8 -11 º C, regardless

of whether the wine is Muito Doce (very sweet),

Doce (sweet), MeioSeco (semi-dry), Seco (dry)

and Extra Seco (very dry). Red Port is not classi-

fied in that way and is served: Ruby Port at 11-14

º C, and Tawny Port at 11-18 º C.

Page 86: vinum.in no.7

86

DOURO VALLEY

Douro Valley, spektakularni brežuljci prekriveni

terasama vinograda koji se postepeno spuštaju

prema obalama istoimene rijeke, dom su vina

porto. Rijeka Douro izvire u Španjolskoj i putu-

je prema sjeveru Portugala i prema zapadu do

gradu Porto, gdje se ulijeva u ocean. Nekad brza

rijeka s brojnim brzacima i slapovima, danas je

ukroćena izgradnjom 8 brana u posljednjih 25

godina. Dolina se može posjetit automobilom

s obzirom da postoji cesta uz rijeku od Peso da

Regua i Pinhao, ali najbolji pogled na krajolik se

pruža sa zavojitih cesta na brežuljcima. Bolji na-

čin za razgledavanje je posjet vlakom ili jednim

od brojnih kruzera koji obilaze rijekom. Pitores-

kni vlak ‘Steam Train’ potječe iz davne 1924. go-

dine i vozi svake subote od svibnja do listopada.

Redovni vlakovi su na raspolaganju svakog dana.

Kruzeri su na raspolaganju od travnja do listo-

pada, a u ponudi su vožnje od nekoliko sati do 2

dana. Potrebno je 11 sati da se preplovi od Porta

do Regue, a 9 sati u suprotnom smjeru. Dokaz

proizvodnje porta vidljiv je na velikim jumbo-

plakatima po okolnim brežuljcima, na kojima

su ispisana imena poznatih vinskih tvrtki poput

Taylors, Cockburns ili Sandeman. Inače, vino

se prikuplja u gradu Regua, odakle se transpor-

tira nizvodno u Vila de Gaia, grad na suprotnoj

strani od Porta. Krajolik doline se spektakularno

mijenja ovisno o varijacijama boja pripadajućeg

godišnjeg doba. Osobito je lijepo u jesen, kada

loza počne dobivati crvenkaste i zlatne boje, ali

također i u veljači i ožujku kada zbog cvatnje ba-

dema cijelo područje dobije karakterističnu ru-

žičastu nijansu.

DOURO VALLEY

The home of port wine, the Douro Valley is

spectacular with the hills covered with terraces

of vines falling steeply down to the river banks.

The Douro River originates in Spain and flows

west in the north of Portugal until it reaches the

ocean in Porto. What used to be a fast flowing

river with rapids and ravines is today a tranquil

river tamed by the construction of 8 dams in the

last 25 years. The valley can be visited by car,

there is a road along the river between Peso da

Regua and Pinhao, but the best scenery is from

the hills driving up the winding roads. A bet-

ter way to visit the area is either by train or by

cruising up the river with one of the many boat

rides on offer. The picturesque Steam Train dat-

ing back to 1924 runs on Saturdays between May

and October. Regular trains are available. Cruis-

es are available from April to October and vary

from a few hours to two days. It takes 11 hours

by ferry to go from Porto to Regua and 9 hours

on the opposite direction. Evidence of port pro-

duction can be seen on the large placards of big

port companies displayed on the hills, world

famous names such as Taylors, Cockburns and

Sandeman appear frequently. The wine is collect-

ed in the city of Regua from where is transported

down river to Vila de Gaia, the city on the other

side of Porto. The scenery of the valley is spec-

tacular with the variations of colour in accor-

dance with the seasons, it is particularly beauti-

ful in autumn when the vines take a reddish and

golden colour, but also in February-March when

the almond blossom gives an added white pink-

ish tone to the region.

Page 87: vinum.in no.7

878

Page 88: vinum.in no.7

Pri samom kraju prosinca prošle godine, održano je drugo ocjenji-vanje vina VINUM IN, kojeg or-

ganiziraju tvrtka ‘Spectator’ i hotel Le Meridien lav u okviru istoimenog salona vina održanog u to vrijeme.Ocjenjivačka komisija, predvođena prof. dr. sc. Bernardom Kozinom, prema pra-vilniku o organoleptičkom ocjenjivanju vina kušalo je i ocijenilo vina iz svih krajeva Hrvatske. Veliki broj vina ih je oduševio, te je podijeljeno 11 zlatnih, 25 srebrnih i 3 brončane medalje.

Last year, at the very end of Decem-ber, organized by company “Spec-tactor” and “Le Méridien Lav” Ho-

tel, the second wine assessment “Vinum in” took place within the similar wine show held in the same time.According to regulations of organolep-tic assessment, commission with prof. dr. sc. Bernard Kozina ahead, tasted and evaluated wine from all parts of Croatia. They were delighted by great number of wines so they decided to give 11 gold, 25 silver and 3 bronze medals.

POŠIP ČARA NERICA PZ NERICA ,ČARA POŠIP 2008

GRAŠEVINAAGRO-ILOK D.D.

(MALI PODRUMI ILOK), ILOKGRAŠEVINA 2006

SAUVIGNON IURIS D.0.0., ALJMAŠ SAUVIGNON 2008

TRAMINACAGRO-ILOK D.D.

(MALI PODRUMI ILOK), ILOKTRAMINAC 2008

ZLATNI MUŠKETIR OBRT RINO PRELAC, MOMJAN MUŠKAT MOMJANSKI BIJELI 2009

GRAŠEVINAAGRO-ILOK D.D.

(MALI PODRUMI ILOK), ILOKGRAŠEVINA 2008

MALVAZIJA O.P.G. GERŽINIĆ, VIŽINADA MALVAZIJA 2009

MALVAZIJAF&F RAVALICO VINARSTVO,

BRTONIGLAMALVAZIJA 2009

CABERNET SAUVIGNON IURIS D.0.0., ALJMAŠ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007

PRIBIDRAG“KUĆA SRETNOG ČOVJEKA”,VINSKA KUĆA MIMICA, OMIŠ

PRIBIDRAG (CRLJENAK) 2008

LIBERTAS PZ PUTNIKOVIĆ, PUTNIKOVIĆI PLAVAC MALI 2007

Dobitnicizlatne

medalje su:

Gold medal winners are:

88

Pobjednici drugog ocjenjivanja vina "Vinum in" 2010.:The winners of the second wine assessment “Vinum in” 2010:

Page 89: vinum.in no.7

MALVAZIJA OBRT RINO PRELAC, MOMJAN MALVAZIJA 2009

MALVAZIJA VINA DEŠKOVIĆ, GROŽNJAN MALVAZIJA 2009

MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA O.P.G. FRANKO RADOVAN,

VIŠNJANMALVAZIJA ISTARSKA 2009

PONENTE, MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA

TRAPAN VINA, PULA MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA 2009

MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA DARIO SIROTIĆ, BUZET MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA 2009

TERRE BIANCHE,CUVEE BLANC

DEGRASSI D.O.O., BAŠANIJA MALVAZIJA CHARDONNAY,

VIOGNIER, SAUV.BLANC 2009

SIVI PINOTF&F RAVALICO VINARSTVO,

BRTONIGLASIVI PINOT 2009

CHARDONNAYF&F RAVALICO VINARSTVO,

BRTONIGLACHARDONNAY 2009

RAJNSKI RIZLINGAGRO-ILOK D.D.

(MALI PODRUMI ILOK), ILOK RAJNSKI RIZLING 2006

SAUVIGNONO.G. PUHELEK-PUREK,

SV.IVAN ZELINASAUVIGNON 2009

TRAMINACAGRO-ILOK D.D.

(MALI PODRUMI ILOK), ILOKTRAMINAC 2007

MUŠKAT O.P.G. GERŽINIĆ, VIŽINADA MUŠKAT 2009

NIGRA VIRGO, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

TRAPAN VINA, PULA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009

CABERNET SAUVIGNONF&F RAVALICO VINARSTVO,

BRTONIGLACABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009

BROČKO RIČ “SACO”, NEREŽIŠČA, O.BRAČ PLAVAC MALI 2009

MRAČAJ JERKOVIĆ- PROMET d.o.o.,

RunovićiMRAČAJ 2009

SHULUQ, SYRAH TRAPAN VINA,PULA SYRAH 2008

TERRE BIANCHE,CUVEE ROUGE RISERVA

DEGRASSI D.O.O., BAŠANIJA CABERNET SAUV, CABERNET

FRANC, MERLOT 2007

MERLOT IURIS D.0.0., ALJMAŠ MERLOT 2007

PALIHNIĆ POSTUPPELJEŠKI VINOGRADAR D.O.O.,

KUNA PELJEŠKAPLAVAC 2007

GRGUREVIĆ GRAND CRU BARRIQUE

GRGUREVIĆ VINA,JANJINA PLAVAC MALI 2007

CABERNET FRANC FERNETIĆ BRUNO CABERNET FRANC 2007

CABERNET SAUVIGNON FERNETIĆ BRUNO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007

MISAL BLANC DES BLANCS PJENUŠCI PERŠURIĆ D.O.O.,

VIŠNJAN CHARDONNAY 2007

MISAL ROUGEPJENUŠCI PERŠURIĆ D.O.O.,

VIŠNJAN TERAN, MUŠKAT, RUŽA

POREČKI, MALVAZIJA IST 2008

MISAL NOIRPJENUŠCI PERŠURIĆ D.O.O.,

VIŠNJAN BORGONJA, TERAN, HRVATICA 2005

CABERNET SAUVIGNONAGRO-ILOK D.D.

(MALI PODRUMI ILOK), ILOKCABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007

KUJUNDŽUŠAJERKOVIĆ- PROMET d.o.o.,

RunovićiKUJUNDŽUŠA 2009

Dobitnicibrončane medalje su:

Bronze medal winners are:

89

Dobitnicisrebrnemedalje su:

Silver medal winners are:

Page 90: vinum.in no.7

Možda niste znali...May be you did not know…

In the early 16th century, the area of Prom-

ina was under constant attack by the Turk-

ish troops. Due to the Turkish raids, farmers,

mostly vine growers, often worked in the field

with weapons on their belts. While in the field,

the farmer usually had a dagger and a gun on

him, which he kept by his side even in his sleep.

To defend the vineyards, special kinds of fences

were put up. Evliya Çelebi,a famous Turkish

travel writer, writes about that: "in a brick fence

of a vineyard, about five hundred enemies en-

camped. The walls of the vineyard were like

fortress walls". Nevertheless, the Turks chopped

down many vineyards so most fields, especially

vineyards, were neglected. Promina area and

Oklaj ultimately fell under the Turkish rule in

1522, which continued until the end of the 17th

century. At that point, there was a significant

halt in the vine growing industry of this region.

In the past, there were several types of vine cul-

tivation in Dalmatia. In ancient times, the area

south of the Neretva River was dominated by

forked cultivation type (the same goes for Ravni

kotari and the area from Rogoznica to Omiš).

Branches of this type are called forks or horns

that gradually extend so that the entire stump

looks like a low tree. In the rest of Dalmatia,

vines were usually shaped like a head (from

Rogoznica to Makarska, on the island of Brač

and in some places on the island of Hvar).

In the Middle Ages, on the island of Lastovo

there was a frequent occurrence of major dam-

age by cattle in the vineyards. Because of this,

in the island statute from the 1310 an entire

chapter (18) was dedicated to the regulation of

a grazing ban in vineyards. According to this

legal norm, is someone's cattle should enter

another's vineyard, the owner was supposed to

pay three pennies as well as compensate for the

damage in accordance with "the assessment of

the honourable men chosen by the executive

magistrate".

90

Početkom 16. stoljeća, prominski kraj stalno

su napadale turske postrojbe. Zbog turskih

upada težaci, i to najčešće vinogradari, često

su s oružjem za pojasom obrađivali svoje

polje. Radeći na zemlji, seljak je često držao

spreman hanđar i pištolj, a ni kad je spavao

nije se od oružja rastajao. Za obranu vinogra-

da izrađivale su se neke vrste posebnih ogra-

da. O tome piše poznati turski putopisac Ev-

lija Čelebi: “u jednoj zidanoj ogradi vinograda

utvrdilo se oko pet stotina neprijatelja. Zidovi

vinograda bili su kao bedemi.” Usprkos tome,

Turci su mnoge vinograde sasjekli, pa je veći

broj polja, posebno vinograda, bio zapušten.

Prominski kraj i Oklaj pali su pod tursku vlast

definitivno 1522. godine i oni ga drže do kraja

17 stoljeća. U to vrijeme dolazi do značajnog

zastoja u vinogradarstvu ovog kraja.

U prošlosti Dalmacije postojalo je nekoliko

uzgojnih oblika trsa. Južno od Neretve u dav-

nini je prevladavao rašljasti uzgojni oblik (isto

kao u Ravnim kotarima i od Rogoznice do

Omiša).Ogranci ovog oblika nazivani su rašlje

ili rogovi, a oni se postepeno produžuju i čitav

panj bi dobivao izgled niska stabalca. U ostali

krajevima Dalmacije najčešće su bile trsovi u

obliku glave (od Rogoznice do Makarske, na

Braču i nekim mjestima na otoku Hvar.)

Na otoku Lastovu je u Srednjem vijeku bila

česta pojava većih šteta u vinogradima,

pričinjena od stoke. Zbog toga je u statutu

otoka iz 1310. godine, cijela glava (18), bila

posvećena reguliranju zabrane ispaše u vi-

nogradima. Prema toj pravnoj normi, ako čija

stoka uđe u vinograd, vlasnik se kažnjavao sa

tri groša uz obvezu naknade štete koja je nas-

tala, i to “kako procjene čestiti ljudi određeni

od kneza”.

Page 91: vinum.in no.7
Page 92: vinum.in no.7

www.vinitaly.com/Exhibitorsarea/Foreigndelegates/

VINITALY VINUM IN.indd 1 31/01/11 17:03