FRYBRID/VEGISTROKE ____________________________________________________________________________________________________

Installing the FN74 Vegistroke system for 19992005 7.3L/6.0 Ford/Navistar Diesel Engines

Installation Manual

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FRYBRID/VEGISTROKE

Installation Manual 19992003 7.3L Ford/Navistar Table of Contents

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Introduction i C H A P T E R 1 Before you get started 1 C H A P T E R 2 Installing Engine Modifications 7.3L 3 C H A P T E R 3 Installing Engine Modifications 6.0L 10 C H A P T E R 4 Installing V3 manifold and hoses 13 C H A P T E R 5 Wiring Instructions 16 C H A P T E R 6 Operation Instructions 25 C H A P T E R 7 Installing the Tank 27

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Chapter 1

Before you get started Before you dive in, take a moment and prepare yourself. First, let us thank you for buying the best, most practical and reliable kit available for your 7.3L and 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel engine. The installation of this kit is relatively straight forward, and involves the installation of the individual components, the hook up of the fuel plumbing, and finally, the wiring of the system. Persons wishing to install this system on their own should have a basic knowledge of engines and fuel systems and at least be familiar with the operation of a voltmeter multi-meter and should have an assortment of basic DIY garage tools available. Recommended tools and Items for Installation: 1. Combination Wrenches

7/8, 3/4, 11/16, 9/16, 5/16, 1/2,

2. 3/8 Drive ratchet and sockets 3 and 6 extensions 3/4, 9/16, 7/16, 15mm, 13mm, 10mm, 8mm

3. 6mm L type allen wrench (6.0 only) 4. Hose cutter 5. #2 flat and Phillips screwdrivers 6. Good quality wire strippers and crimpers. 7. Basic Multimeter 8. Dremel tool with cutting disc attachment 9. Fine point Sharpie Marker. 10. Vice grips 11. Pick Set 12. Ford Stereo removal tool

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Chapter 2

Installing the Engine Modifications 7.3L This installation section represents the only place in which you will touch the stock fuel system. Here you will be installing the supplied check valves between the factory check valve and the fuel port in the head. 1. Disconnect the batteries 2. Remove the air filter inlet tube. 3. Remove the decorative cover using a 13mm socket 4. Remove the serpentine belt by turning the belt-tensioner counter-

clockwise.

5. Using an 11mm deep socket, loosen the hose clamps on the boost pipes from the manifold and the intercooler on both the driver and passenger side. Carefully work the pipes out from the engine and set aside.

6. Spray Brake kleen on the rear fuel line and head area to remove any oil and sediment.

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Engine disassembly as of step #9. (Note for this photo the installer chose NOT to remove the passenger turbo intake tube). The red circle points to the location of the passenger rear fuel line. 7. Using a 9/16 wrench, remove the fuel line from the passenger rear head. THIS IS A

TRICKY STEP AND REQUIRES PATIENCE! In some cases, removal of the turbo downpipe may be necessary if the threads on the head are unable to line up with your wrench.

8. Remove the fuel line retaining clamp using a 10mm wrench or socket.

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Diagram of fittings used 9. Use a 9/16 deep socket to remove the factory fitting from the head. Screw the OEM

fitting into the 1/8 check valve with Locktite sealant #545 and tighten (included with kit). DO NOT USE PLUMBERS TAPE OR TEFLON TAPE! IT WILL DISSOLVE AND PLUG YOUR INJECTORS! Now carefully replace the fitting and the check valve assembly back into the port into the head from which it was removed. Tighten snug.

10. Before replacing the fuel line back on the factory fitting, remove the degraded factory O-

ring, and replace it with the new one supplied. Sometimes the o-ring can become lodged in the nut, use a pick to help remove it. Finally, replace the fuel line retaining bracket. Replacing the fuel line may require some light bending of the fuel line to help line up the nut on the fitting. TIP: Use pick to hold rubber seal in place while you unscrew the nut from around the rubber sleeve.

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11. Repeat this process for the drivers front fuel line. You will find it much easier if you remove the serpentine belt, as stated in step 4, and loosen the Alternator/Power Steering assembly. There are 4 13mm bolts holding this assembly in place. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the steel line in place to allow easier alignment of the fuel line. Once the Check Valve is installed, you are now done modifying the factory fuel system. Reinstall the ALT/PS bracket.

Photo of the drivers front stock fuel line with the new check valve installed. Power Steering Assembly has been unbolted and moved forward. 12. Now we will install the WVO feed lines for the previously unused fuel ports on the

passenger front and drivers rear. Remove the A/C bracket for access to the front fuel port by removing the 4 13mm bolts in roughly the same spots as on the Power Steering Bracket. This will require removing the belt tensioner to access the 4th bracket bolt.

13. I have had the best luck in using a good quality 6 crescent wrench to break loose the

plug and then use a 5/16 wrench to remove the 1/8 pipe plug from the fuel port. Install the 1/8npt to 4 JIC adapter in the port. Tighten very snug. Next place the 4an elbow on the adapter pointing to the rear. This may be a tight fit between the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) reservoir and the fitting, but it will fit. Do not tighten this down yet.

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14. Next install a swivel fitting into one end of a length of fuel line and thread the fitting onto the newly installed fitting back to the engine removal bracket on the passenger rear allow a few inches of extra line and cut the line and install another swivel fitting to this end of the hose. Here you will place a #6 T that will connect the drivers side (in the next step) and be fed from the WVO pump. Now you can tighten connections.

Completed WVO feed lines on the passenger front on previously plugged fuel port.

15. Replace the A/C assembly. 16. Repeat this task for the drivers rear fuel port. Install a swivel fitting on another length of

hose and connect it to the rear fitting then route around the front of the turbo, under the intake tube, and to the #6 T on the passenger bank, install another swivel fitting and connect it to the #6 T. Then connect a swivel fitting to a length of hose, attach it to the T and route it to the location of the flat plate heat exchanger fuel outlet and attach it. The completed tee assembly should look like the picture below.

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Hose diagram

17. Refer to the PSD general information manual for routing the hoses from the fuel tank to

the engine compartment and the engine compartment coolant routing, once this is complete we will move on to step 18 and connect the engines coolant system to the tube in hose, coolant hose and heat exchanger connections.

18. Cut each heater hose once, and install the Ts (with clamps). Tighten down. Make note of which hose is connected to the hose coming from the block (hot).. This will be connected to the V3 manifold on the Frame. On Excursions and 2003 and newer 6.0s there is a heater hose valve installed in the area of the passenger side valve cover. Make sure to install the hose T on the engine side of this cutoff, or toward the front of the vehicle.

a. FYI- the coolant flows from the block, through the heater core, and back in through the water pump. b. Refer to Fig.1 in the general manual or to the same diagram on the last page of this manual.

19. Replace the turbo intercooler boost tubes. At this point the motor should be completely reassembled, with the exception of the PSD decorative cover and air filter inlet tube.

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Chapter 33

Installing the Engine Modifications 6.0L Here you will be installing the engine modifications required for the 6.0. The steps are few, but require patience. 1. Replace the OEM banjo bolt check valves with the supplied actual check valves. 2. The banjo bolts are located on the front of each head just below the aluminum valve

cover. The drivers side is accessed by removing the air filter housing and is located just behind the coolant hose. Removal and replacement is much easier with the hose removed, but it is possible without removing the hose. If you elect to remove the hose, drain the radiator first to reduce the amount of coolant leaked when the hose is removed. Do not replace the Air filter until after the heater hoses are connected.

3. Remove the OEM banjo bolt and copper crush rings. Locate the replacement bolts that

look similar to the OEM ones. The hollow bolts are for the rear ports. There should be a sealing washer on both sides of the bolts. Make sure to use some provided loctite thread sealant on the banjo bolt. It may help to loosen the end of the line at the filter to allow more play in the fuel line when lining up the Banjo Bolts again.

TIP: To help hold the inner ring in place while starting bolt use a piece of electrical tape stuck to sealing washer. Cut out a circle for the bolt to pass through, and a small slit on one side to allow for removal of tape after installing banjo bolt.

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4. Repeat process for passenger side. Removing the intercooler pipe will make access to the bolt quick and easy.

5. Now locate and remove the fuel rail plugs in the back of the heads. They will be located

exactly opposite of the banjo bolts you just replaced in the front. The drivers side plug is located directly behind the turbo up-pipe.

TIP: For easier access to the head of the plug, use a standard L type 6mm allen wrench and cut down the short end a little shorter. I have found this job easiest done from the bottom of the truck. These plugs are very tight from the factory. Make certain that the allen is firmly seated to avoid stripping the plug. Try using a cheater on the end of the allen for more leverage. Once broke loose, the plugs will easily screw out by hand.

6. Now with the plugs removed, locate the banjo bolt and the push-on barb banjo fitting in the accessories kit. Take some 1/4 hose and test fit for length from the drivers side fuel port across the transmission to the passenger frame and then cut it a foot longer than you need. Do the same for the passenger side fuel fitting to frame.

7. Now install one push-on banjo fitting into the ends of each hose you just cut. 8. Install banjo bolt and fitting into fuel ports. Make sure you dont forget the sealing

washers. This step requires finesse and patients. I usually find it easiest to use the hose to position the fitting while using other hand to start the bolt. Experiment with body position. The correct position under the vehicle can make this step much easier.

9. Now cut off both hoses at the same location and install #6 JIC female swivel to 1/4 barb

push on fittings and then connect to 3 way JIC T from the accessorys kit. The TEE should be tied to the transmission cooler lines look similar to the picture below.

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10. Once the Frame module is installed, you will measure the distance from the T to the outlet of the module and cut a 3/8 piece of hose to that length, install #6 JIC swivel to 3/8 barb in hose, and connect and tighten.

11. With the hard part out of the way, now comes the easy part- Running the heater hoses.

One hose will be installed in the Drivers side, and one on the passenger side. DO NOT INSTALL HOSES INTO ONLY ONE HEATER HOSE!! This will cause poor in cab heater performance, and with the heater hose valve for the heater core your coolant flow will be blocked if your heater is not on.

12. The Passenger side hose will be installed in the hose on the passenger valve cover.

Make sure to install the TEE toward the front of the Factory coolant valve, NOT between the valve and the cab. Route this hose down the side of the engine making sure to stay clear of the exhaust manifold. This is the HOT hose that will connect directly to the front of the V3 manifold.

13. The other hose will be run across the top of the heat shield for the transfer case to the

drivers side and connect the hose underneath the coolant reservoir. These hoses should come together at the V3 Manifold and be run together back to the tank along the passenger side frame rail.

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Chapter 4

Installing the V3 module and running hoses

This installation section will guide you through mounting the V3 unit, and running the coolant and fuel hoses.

1. Make a mounting plate with holes in it matching the holes on the pump and utilizing the bolts securing the transmission cross member. There will be 4 5/16 bolt holes on the side opposite of DFA. Use only the 3 holes closest to the filter head section.

2. Remove two bolts from the bottom of the frame on the passengers side at the

transmission cross member. This is where the V3 will mount. Now install the V3 as shown below. Excursions will have bolts, but same thing applies. Remove bolts-install manifold, replace transmission bolts. Vibration dampeners may be used if desired but I have not found them necessary.

3. Locate the tube in hose terminating ends near the V3 Module. Connect the end of the

tube in hose line coming from the fuel tank to the fuel port on the V3 unit marked Fuel In and the end going to the engine compartment and flat plate heat exchanger to the port marked Fuel Out.

4. Route a section of coolant line from the tube in hose terminating end coming from the

engine and connect it to the Water In port on the V3 module and the end going back to the tank and connect it to the Water Out port.

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I N S T A L L A T I O N F R Y B R I D / V E G I S T R O K E 5. Cit a section of 3/8 fuel line and install a 06 JIC push-lock fitting in the end, this will

attach to the port on the rear of the V3 module marked Tank and then be routed to one of the center fittings on the In-tank heat exchanger module this is the line that a small amount of vegetable oil is returned to the tank through during the purge

Photo of V3 manifold.

The supplied wiring harness has a series of connectors on one end, I suggest that you label them with pieces of blue non-stick tape and a Sharpie marker. Green / Lt. Green Purge solenoid Single black w/ eye Ground Single Purple spare lead Heavy red/black V3 Pump Lt Blue / yellow Spare Orange w/ Black trace & Orange Temp switch Gray & gray w/ black Filter Heater Jacket Green, black & white Pressure switch

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There are two wires way down the harness which are for the stock fuel pump. The connectors on the opposite end of the harness go to the Frybrid controller module and other connections under the dashboard.

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Chapter 5

Wiring Instructions This installation section details the process of wiring together the V3 unit to the battery and gauges. 1. Run the Frame harness. In the cab, locate the shift cable grommet in the drivers floor below the gas pedal. Pull back the carpet a bit to expose and pull grommet out of hole. Or another option as well is on most trucks there is a plugged off hole in the Firewall just to the outside of the brake booster. On the 99-01 models it is behind the underhood fuse panel. 2. Run main harness from frame module along transmission cross-member giving clearance to the exhaust and the driveshaft, then along the frame to the pass through location of your choice. The main harness has a 6pin, 2pin, and 1 pin plug, a ground and blue and yellow auxiliary wires on the end that goes in the cab. The frame end consists of 5-2pins, and 1pin plug along with a ground and the other end of the yellow and blue auxiliary wires. Refer to picture below for plug labeling. In the middle are a black and green wire that will connect to the OEM fuel pump on the drivers side Frame rail just beneath the drivers seat. Pop out the grommet and feed the plug through. Leave as is for the time being. 3. Next Connect the Battery wire with the 50A breaker on it to the positive battery post then run the harness down to that same location as the main harness going into the cab. Push the plug and any excess slack through. Remove any extra loom. This harness will also have a yellow wire which is an extra wire and can be ignored. 4. Now, from the inside, use a knife to carefully slice the grommet to accommodate the wires, Or a dremel to modify the hard plastic firewall plug. and then place back in position. Run wires up along shift cable and zip tie. 5. Connect to Factory Fuel pump located along drivers side frame just in front of the transmission cross member. Refer to figure below.

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Figure 2 Representation of the 1999-2003 7.3 fuel pump.

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6. You should now have all the connections made on the V3 Module and the wiring harness routed to the dashboard, the factory fuel pump harness spliced into the new harness and the smaller harness with the circuit breaker also routed to the dashboard.

Installing the FRYBRID GEN-3 Microprocessor 1. Find a suitable location to install the unit. It should be installed away from

electromagnetic fields such as those created by electric motors, speakers and amplifiers (ie; Do not mount the unit adjacent to a stereo speaker or on a fan or wiper motor housing) and should be in a clean dry location. Under the dashboard is ideal.

The Gen-3 has two mounting holes in the unit, sheet metal screws, tec screws or small bolts can be used to mount the unit. It may also be mounted with heavy duty Velcro or even glued in place. Be sure nothing will accidentally make contact with the electrical connections on the unit.

2. No wiring harness is supplied with the Microprocessor as there are too many variables

in the various models of vehicles. You will need to make up wires for the remaining connections using the supplied connectors. You will need to locate a 12vdc positive un-switched battery connection, you may jump off the main harness you ran to the dashboard with the 50amp inline breaker if you like

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but you will still need to install the supplied 10amp fuse to protect the microprocessor. This connection will be connected to the system override switch and then to pins #10 & #18 on the controller. TIP: Print off the wiring diagram below and highlight each connection as it is made to insure that you have missed nothing.

3. Locate a 12vdc ignition switched circuit. This is an important wire to get correct for proper operation. The wire for this is in a group of customer access wires that is likely tied up on the OBDII wire loom just above the transmission tunnel on the drivers side under the dash One usually has shrink wrap on the end from the factory. For 1999-2001 the wire will be Light Blue/Pink. On 2002 and newer it will be White/Light Blue. This is a Factory Customer Access wire. The fuse position for this on 1999-2001 trucks is 27, and 2.29 for 2002-2007. i. EXCURSION: 2000-2001 this wire will be in the same location, however it will be

White with a black stripe. 2002 and newer are the same as the pickup. Fuse location is the same.

Route this wire to pin# 3 of the controller as well as jumpers to the purge button and the positive connection of the fuel gauge. have been run to the mounting location, you can begin to crimp spade connectors on to the wires and connect them to the terminals on the GEN-3 as shown below.

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Connections: 1) Purge button. This lead comes from the purge button, the other lead from the purge button can be connected to terminal #3 which is supplied with 12vdc+ only when the ignition is on or to terminal #10 which has constant 12vdc+.

3) 12vdc+ Ignition on. (refer to step 3 above) This lead must come from the ignition switch or fuse panel and should have power only when the ignition switch is in the on position. Stereos commonly use a switched power lead, and many vehicle accessories are also switched. You can find a switched lead with a test light by testing connections with the ignition off, then again with the ignition on. Test lights are available at any auto parts store for around $5.00. One side of the Purge button should also be connected to this terminal; the other side goes to terminal #10. 4) Coolant temp switch. This lead comes from the coolant temp switch, the other lead from the coolant temp switch should be connected to terminal #4 which is supplied 12vdc+ switched (12vdc+ with ignition on only) These leads are orange and orange with a black trace on the supplied harness and connect to pins #3 and #4. 9) Vehicle ground, this lead connects to any of the sheet metal on the vehicle (possibly the GEN-3 mounting screws). 10) 12vdc+ constant. (refer to step 2 above) This lead should come directly from the battery with the fused lead supplied with the kit. Be sure to use a grommet if this lead will pass through any sheet metal so that the metal will not wear through the wires insulation over time and short the fuse, place the fuse as close to the hot side connection as is possible. 11) Power to the V3 pump relay (diagram below). 13) Power to the + (red) lead on the warning buzzer. The buzzers other lead (-, Black) should be connected to vehicle ground. 14) Power to the + (red) lead on the Diesel indicator light (Red light). The indicator lights other lead (-, Black) should be connected to vehicle ground. 15) Power to the + (red) lead on the VO indicator light (Green light). The indicator lights other lead (-, Black) should be connected to vehicle ground. 16) Power to the + (red) lead on the Purge indicator light (Yellow light). The indicator lights other lead (-, Black) should be connected to vehicle ground. 18) 12vdc+ constant. This lead should come directly from the battery with the fused lead supplied with the kit, or simply be jumped from terminal #10.

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V3 pump control relay

Filter Heater Control relays

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Wiring harness diagram

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I N S T A L L A T I O N F R Y B R I D / V E G I S T R O K E It is recommended that all soldered connections are covered with heat-shrink tubing. Wires should be run in a neat bundle and wire tied in place. Take care in the routing of wires to avoid hot items such as exhaust components and moving components such as steering and throttle linkage. Remember, Measure twice, cut once. Tip: When running several wires together, you can pre-cut the wires longer than you need, insert one end of the wire bundle into the chuck of a drill and hold the other end of the bundle with vise-grips or a vice. Slowly turn the drill motor to twist the bundle together, when tightly twisted, release the wire and you will have a neatly twisted bundle. Tip: Always use a rubber grommet when putting wires through a hole in metal to protect the wires from the metal wearing through the insulation and shorting the wire. Tip: the light on the gauge should illuminate with the dash lights and be dimmable, you can connect it to the dash light dimmer at the headlight switch. It is easiest to remove the headlight switch by popping out the dash a little, then pushing the headlight switch out from behind. Use the small gauge wire, light blue with red trace.

Optional filter indicator light The Frybrid/Vegistroke unit is designed so that should the vegetable oil fuel pressure ever fall below 65psi, the fuel supply will be supplemented by the diesel pump. In the event that the vegetable oil filter becomes clogged and proper fuel pressure can not be delivered, the diesel pump will supply enough additional fuel for the vehicle to continue to run properly. This situation is not ideal since you will be burning some diesel fuel but it does prevent the vehicle from stalling should the filter become clogged. The pressure sensing switch on the V3 module turns off the stock pump when the VO fuel pressure exceeds 65 psi and turns it back on if it falls below 65 psi, in this switch we have incorporated an additional wire which supplies 12vdc to an optional indicator light which can be marked VO fuel pressure OK or VO filter OK. Wire it using the white whire from the supplied wiring harness and the diagram below.

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Basic Microprocessor and control wiring

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Calibrating and wiring of the inductive fuel level sender and low fuel warning/auto purge

Introduction: We have discovered that polymerized oil can build-up on the standard fuel level sender body and float arm causing it to malfunction, the float are can be very difficult to adjust properly giving inaccurate fuel level readings and some customers expressed a desire for a system which would automatically default to diesel and auto purge in the event of low fuel in the VO tank. To solve these issues and meet the expectations of our customers we have introduced a new inductive fuel level sender with no moving parts, made from non-reactive metals with a low fuel indicator which can be used to auto-purge the system or simply to light a low fuel indicator light on the dash. Wiring the inductive level sender:

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I N S T A L L A T I O N F R Y B R I D / V E G I S T R O K E Calibrating the inductive sender: We strongly recommend that the sender be calibrated outside the fuel tank. When calibrating senders we use a plastic bottle filled with vegetable oil. This allows you to make the various adjustments before the tank is installed in the vehicle and the adjustment screws are difficult to access. Once adjusted it is suggested that the adjusters be sealed in position with silicone sealer or a waterproof epoxy. Calibration Make the wiring connections as shown on the wiring diagram. Turn on the ignition switch. Turn the FULL and EMPTY adjustment screws located on top of the sender to the full CW (clockwise) position. Alarm/purge calibration: Turn the EMPTY adjustment counterclockwise until the needle on the fuel gauge is at the desired alarm/purge point; we set this just above the E mark maybe 1/16. Now adjust the alarm adjustment until the light just comes on (the alarm circuit goes to ground). Now while the alarm light is on (or the circuit has gone to ground) slowly adjust the EMPTY adjustment to move the needle above the trip point and the alarm light should go out (the circuit opens), then again turn the EMPTY adjustment so that the needle drops below the set point to verify that the setting is correct. Setting the Empty This must be done with tank empty or with the sensor completely out of the fluid. Slowly turn the EMPTY screw CCW (counter clockwise) until the needle on the meter just stops moving downward. The needle should be on or just below the empty mark. Now turn the screw CW (clockwise) to make sure the needle starts moving upscale immediately, and then turn CCW until the needle just stops moving downward again. This is the EMPTY reference mark. Repeat this step until you are sure the EMPTY reference is where you want it. Setting the Full Turn the FULL screw CCW until the needle indicates the liquid level in your tank. For best results, the tank should be full or the sensor submerged all the way to the plastic housing in vegetable oil. If you accidentally adjust below your tank level, turn the FULL screw full CW and repeat this setting.

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I N S T A L L A T I O N F R Y B R I D / V E G I S T R O K E At this point you likely have a HUGE allen wrench in your hand wondering whats this for? The 5/8 Allen wrench is for removing the Prefilter cap directly next to the pump. And the 3 pin plug is a jumper plug for the pressure switch on the manifold. The jumper will plug in place of the pressure switch should it ever fail, re-enabling your stock diesel pump. I advise placing both of these items in your glove box.

System Function The system has 3 indicator lights, an override switch and a push button (Optional filter indicator). When the vehicles ignition is turned on and the system override switch is in the ON position, the red indicator will illuminate indicating that the system is on and the vehicle is running on diesel fuel, when the vehicle reaches operating temperature the controller will automatically switch the system to VO mode. The red light will go out and the green light will illuminate indicating that the system is now running on VO. * Should the ignition be turned off when the vehicle in VO mode an alarm buzzer will sound and will continue to do so until the vehicle is re-started. Before shutting the engine down you will need to press the systems purge button, when you do this the green light will go out and the yellow light will illuminate indicating that the system is in its purge cycle. Once complete the red light will again illuminate and you may shut the engine off without the buzzer. We suggest that you purge the vehicle while driving and that you do so several blocks before your destination. Personally I hit my purge button 2 blocks from my destination while driving, if I forget for some reason, I hold the accelerator so that the engine is running at about 1300 RPM and purge it, I then hold the throttle at 1300 for about 30 seconds before shutting the engine off. * If the VO tank runs low on fuel while driving the system will automatically purge itself and will not return to VO mode until there is fuel in the VO tank. If you have no fuel in the VO tank the system will not switch to VO mode. If the vehicle will be operated without VO in the tank, you should turn the VO system off so that it does not heat the filter and cook the VO in the filter.

Setting the purge cycle

1. Locate the purge cycle timing adjustment on the Gen-3 Controller (small blue knob labeled 1-180) and turn it counterclockwise gently until it stops.

2. Locate terminals #4 & #10 on the Gen-3 Controller. Clip one end of a jumper wire to

terminal #10 taking care that it does not contact any of the other terminals. With the ignition ON and the red (diesel) indicator lit on the control panel, touch the loose end of the jumper momentarily to terminal #4 This will trigger the controller to switch to VO mode The red light will go out and the Green VO indicator will light The vehicle is now drawing and returning fuel to and from the VO tank.

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3. Press the Purge button the green indicators will go out and the yellow (purge) indicator will light for a moment, then go out and the red (diesel) indicator will again light. Cycle the override switch OFF and back ON again, the red light will illuminate.

4. Now adjust the timing adjustment on the Gen-3 Controller slightly clockwise, this

adjustment is very sensitive. Now repeat steps 2 & 3 above and count how many seconds the purge light remains illuminated for. You are setting the time for 10 seconds, and you will repeat this process until you get it. Once set remove the jumper.

Your system is now complete and functioning, go for a test drive and take some coolant with you, it is common for the system to burp air from the lines and require more coolant on the first drive. If your defrost is not blowing hot air when the engine is hot, you have air in the system. Trick: If terminal #1 is supplied with +12vdc, permanently or momentarily after the system has switched to VO, the Gen-3 will initiate a purge cycle. Trick: If terminal #4 is supplied with +12vdc, permanently or momentarily, the Gen-3 will switch from diesel mode to VO mode. (if you want to be able to manually switch to VO mode, you can connect a normally open push button to this terminal However the system is designed to automatically switch as soon as it is capable of doing so, switching before this point can cause engine damage due to insufficiently heated oil. Tip: The system is designed to lock out completely once a purge cycle has been completed. You can override this feature by cutting power to the controller with the Override switch momentarily. So if you want to run several purge cycles without turning the motor off, you can simply cycle the override switch between cycles. Tip: The system warning buzzer will sound if you turn off the engine while in VO mode. If however you wish to turn the motor off for only a few minutes, like sitting at a drive up window, you can silence the buzzer by cycling the override switch with the ignition off. When you restart the vehicle it will start up on VO. Note: Depending on the fuel injection system you have, purging completely may not clear VO from the injectors themselves. If you notice hard starting in the morning, or white smoke on startup which was not present before using VO, run the purge cycle 30 seconds before shutting the motor down, if still present try 1 minute and so on until you find your systems requirements. Alternately if you find hard starting and/or white smoke on startup, try running a on diesel and shutting down on diesel, if the issue remains, it is not VO related. Congratulations! You have successfully installed the Frybrid Diesel/Vegetable Oil system. You vehicle will now warm-up and shut down on Diesel, but run on 100% Vegetable oil!.