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8/11/2019 V5 Preview _Origins Dr Weil Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis, And My Top 3 Picks_ - Of Faces and Fingers
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Origins is famous for its plant-based skincare products, andindeed thebrand was one of the first mainstream brands to heavily market itself as a
natural skincare brand. Chances are, you've probably heard of any of their
skincare ranges, with really cute names like Plantidote, A Perfect World, or
GinZing. Despite being around since 1990, the brand is fairly new to me.
I've never tried anything from the brand, so it was some interest that I
started testing out their Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin
Relief Collection.
Origin s Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief: Mushrooms and lo ts of othe r
plants to the rescue!
he Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range is a plant-based range and advertises
itself as such, so I thought a quick summary of the science on 1)the oils in
skincare in general, and 2) the oils in the product range, may help to set
the stage.
Origins Dr Weil Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief
Review and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3
Picks
L E A V E A C O M M E N TT U E S D A Y , A U G U S T 1 2 , 2 0 1 4
G E T E M A I L
U P D A T E S
F O L L O W
E NT E R YO U R E M A IL A D D R E SUBMIT
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S E E N E L S E W H E R E
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The Origin s Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range has a grand totalof seven products to suit all preferences.
First things first: Are Oils in Skincare Clogging to MySkin? What Do They Do I n Skincare, Anyway?
I thought this section was necessary as sometimes people think that
applying oils to your skin can clog your skin. This is not totally unfounded.
As I wrote in a previous skincare review, generally, oils with oleic acid
(coconut and argan oil are two examples of oils that are high in oleic acid)tend to be more clogging than oils that are lower in oleic acid. This in turn
means that how clogging your plant-oil-containing skincare is, depends very
much on the type of oils included. Fortunately, most of the common oils
ound in skincare, such as jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, and grape seed oil,
aren't that high in oleic acid, so it's not likely that they will clog your skin.
(Of course, if you experience otherwise, stop immediately.)
Chemical structure of the three most common fatty acids in
commonly-used skincare oils(Image source)
So, now that not all plant oils are a cause for alarm, what are these oils
doing in skincare, anyway? Most oils have an emollient effect, as theysmooth the surface of the skin. They also form some sort of barrier function,
preventing water loss from the skin (known as TEWL, or transepidermal
water loss). A high rate of TEWL is often associated with dry skin (obviously,
because the more water your skin loses, the drier it becomes), so lots of
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skincare products are dedicated to reducing TEWL. Additionally, there is
some evidence that acne-prone skin is usually deficient in linoleic acid, so
one theory is that if your plant oils are rich in linoleic acid, then it could
help to alleviate acne by replenishing the deficient linoleic acid. In theory,
ou could probably pick an oil (or a mix of oils) that have fairly high linoleic
acid content and lower oleic acid content, and those oils shouldn't make
acne worse. Some oils that have this property include Hemp Seed Oil,
Evening Primrose Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil, and Borage
Seed Oil.
Some oils also have other benefits, primarily an anti-oxidant effect. For
example,jojoba seed oil can have anti-oxidant effects, and grape seed oil is
often touted as an anti-oxidant, which is why these oils are so popular. For
people who really love their facial oils, some may like to use only one in the
belief that it is best for their skin type, but others like to mix a couple of oils
to try to get a bunch of benefits from the oils combined (e.g. high linoleic
acid, with some anti-oxidant properties, while feeling relatively lightweight,
etc.).
So as you might guess from this summary, oils, even while lots of people
love them, are quite a personal thing - it really depends on your skin's own
atty acid content, as well as what the user wants out of the product, and
the skinfeel of the product (because some oils can feel quite heavy on the
skin too).
he bottom line:
1) Not all oils clog your skin. It depends on the fatty acid content
in the oil: the higher the amount of oleic acid in the oil, the
more clogging it is, while oils rich in linoleic acid could actually
benefit skin types prone to acne. It also depends on your skin's
own reaction to the oils, of course.
2) The benefits that oils bring to skincare are the ability to leave
an emollient layer on your skin, reducing TEWL (water loss from
the skin) and thus reducing one of the main causes of skin
dryness.
3) Additionally, some oils can have other ancillary benefits when
used in skincare, such as anti-oxidant effects.
What About the Oils in the Origins Mega-Mushroom
Skin Relief Skincare Range?
he most common oils in the Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief skincare
range are Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil and Carthamus Tinctorius
(Safflower) Seed Oil, by far. These appear near the top in almost all the
ingredients list for every product in the range, with the main exceptions
being the Eye Serum, the Face Cream, and the Face Lotion. So I thought it
might be good to take a little bit more of a look at whether there were any
benefits conferred by both oils, since, after all, they are a fairly major
component in the product range.
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A comparison of the fatty acid content of some common oils in
our diet. Safflower and Olive are both included as well.(Image
source)
For olive oil, in addition to the usual emollient benefits that plant oils
confer, there is some evidence that The high level of squalane from olive oil
in some products protects the skin's sensitive lipids, and that high
concentration of plant peptides protects the peptide bonds of the skin
proteins.There's also some evidence that olive oil protects against some
UVB damage, possibly through its antioxidant effects.So while I wouldn't
recommend using olive oil as sunscreen wholesale, it's good to know that
there is some proof of its anti-oxidant effects. Additionally, olive oil does
have some anti-inflammatory compounds, so although stronger proof existsof olive oil's anti-inflammatory properties when consumed (i.e. eaten), it's
possible that when applied topically, there will be some anti-inflammatory
benefits as well. The anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects that olive oil
has comes from the phenolics in the oil, namely oleuropein and
hydroxytyrosol.
Safflower Seed Oil, on the other hand, had less data available. It does have
emollient properties, and it also seems to be fairly high in linolenic acid,
although whether this translates into benefits on the skin is a little
debatable - you could reasonably expect it to work on skin (after all,replenishing your skin's sebum doesn't require very much penetration into
the lower layers of the skin), but not all studies show this effect. While
there isn't too much other information on safflower oil or safflower seed oil
directly, it is quite similar in composition to sunflower oil, for which there is
a bit more research. Sunflower oil has fairly high levels of tocopherol
(Vitamin E), so it's a good balance to olive oil, which has a much lower
tocopherol content than seed oils. On another note, it seems that safflower
seed oil seems to be promoted by some sites online as part of a "healthier"
diet - perhaps this also stems from its similarity to sunflower oil. There is
also some evidence that sunflower oil might help atopic dermatitis even
more than olive oil, and the same goes for sunflower seed oil.
So as far as olive oil and safflower seed oil go, so far so good. I don't think
there is too much reason to be concerned there. Some of the other oils
that also appear in the product, however, might be a greater concern for
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other users, depending on how sensitive they are to the essential oils.
Essential oils - not just in cosmetics!(Image source)
Some of the minor oils that make an appearance in small amounts are
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia
(Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin
Orange) Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, and
Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil. These are mainly used as fragrances in
cosmetics, and the science on these oils are mixed. On the one hand, there
is some limited evidence that some of these oils have some benefits, such
as orange oil having anti-microbial effects, or lavender oil having wound-
healing benefits, or patchouli having some preventive effects against UV
radiation. But the evidence for some of this is quite limited - I could only
ind a single study in all the above-mentioned cases, in contrast to the
greater amount of studies done on olive and safflower/sunflower oil. I
usually prefer if I can find multiple studies with conclusion that are in line
with each other, because it indicates that the results are repeatable (i.e.
the original result was not some sort of one-off fluke). And, on the other
hand, some of these fragrant oils can be irritating for some people,
especially in high concentrations. For example, lavender oil can be an
irritant, although not all essential oils are irritants - for example geranium is
airly low on the irritancy list. So I'd say, it's possible that for some peoplethey can work, but for others, they just trigger all sorts of skin reactions. My
assessment would be to go ahead cautiously (e.g. with a test patch) and
see how it works for you.
So as far as the plant oils go? The two ones that are present in the largest
amounts, Olive Oil and Safflower Seed Oil, don't seem to be a problem for
most people, but depending on your skin type and sensitivity, some of the
other essential oils might trigger some reaction. So test patch or get a
sample if you think you might have skin that might be sensitive to some of
these oils, but other people might see benefit from them.
he Origins Mega-Mushroom range is advertised as being geared towards
sensitive and inflamed skin, so for those with this skin type, you're probably
wondering at this point, "It sounds like a mixed bag with so many plant oils -
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I don't know what to think!" Well, bear in mind that the fragrant oils are
there only in small amounts, and that the two main oils are still Olive and
Safflower. So if your skin can tolerate the more fragrant oils, you could
potentially benefit from the anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of
both the Olive and Safflower Oils, which can help with skin sensitivity or
irritation.
he bottom line:
1) The two main oils present in the Mega-Mushroom Skin Reliefrange in larger amounts are olive oil and safflower seed oil. Other
oils that are present in much smaller amounts are sweet orange
oil, lavender oil, patchouli oil, mandarin orange peel oil, geranium
oil, and olibanum oil.
2) The two main oils, olive oil and safflower seed oil, confer
emollient benefits when used on skin. Additionally, olive oil could
confer anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects as well.
Safflower oil has a fair level of linoleic acid, and could confer
anti-oxidant properties.
3) The rest of the lesser oils are primarily used as fragrances incosmetics. The science is mixed, with some stud ies showing these
oils to have beneficial effects, e.g. anti-microbial or wound-
healing benefits, while other studies raise concerns that such oils
cn be irritating for some others. The effect of these oils may
depend on your skin type, so if you get the chance to, a test
patch is a good idea.
4) If your skin is tolerant towards the essential oils in low
amounts, then the products, being comprised mainly of olive and
safflower oil, may help with skin irritation or sen sitivity.
My Top Three Picks From The Mega-Mushroom SkinRelief R ange
he Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Range, because it uses primarily the
same plant-based oils and extracts for the bulk of most of its products, ends
up with somewhat similar formulations from product to product within the
range. In some ways, this is a good thing - it means that if you've tried one
product in the range, and really like it, chances are, you'll like the entire
range. But which product should you start off with, if you're just dipping
our toes into the range and don't want to buy everything at once? Ahh,
decisions, decisions. Fortunately, after trying the entire range, here are mytop three picks! (If you want to know more about other products in the
range, do feel free to leave a comment, but to keep this post from getting
too long, I'll just focus on my favourites for now).
First, the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Soothing Treatment Lotion .
his is one of the products that is more geared towards oily skin, as it is
more water-based.
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Origin s Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Soothing Treatment Lotion:More emollient than your typical moisturizer.
Here's the ingredients list, showing the first 15 ingredients. I've just listed
the first 15 ingredients, because the actual ingredients list is pretty long.
But for a look at the ingredients, it's more than sufficient, because these
are the ones that make up the bulk of the product anyway. In fact, one of
my favourite sites, The Beauty Brains(written by cosmetic chemists - love
them!), notes that "the first 5 ingredients are the ones that matter the
most". There are a few exceptions like colouring pigments and
preservatives. But for skincare ingredients, unless you have a prescriptionproduct like retinoid (which will be effective even at very low levels), most
ingredients, particularly the humectant, emollient and botanical ingredients,
actually need to be present in good amount before they can have a
significant effect on their skin.
Water, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Water, Butylene
Glycol, PEG-4, Hypsizygus Ulmarius (Mushroom) Mycelium Extract,
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Curcuma Longa
(Turmeric) Root Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom)
Extract, Cordyceps Sinensis (Mushroom) Extract, Ocimum Sanctum(Holy Basil) Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange)
Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin
(Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil,
Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, etc.
You can see that other than water (which appears twice in the ingredients
list - once as water and once as Chamomile Flower water) there are also
some of the plant extracts and oils that I mentioned earlier. In addition to
the emollient effects provided by the oils, there are also humectants
(Butylene Glycol), and emulsifiers to ensure everything stays mixed anddoesn't separate (PEG-4, Trideceth-9). I'd say that the main attraction of
this product would probably be the plant extracts which I've talked about
earlier, because the remaining formulation is rather simple, consisting of
primarily emollients and humectants. From the formulation, which consists of
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lighter-feeling ingredients (Water and Butylene Glycol being the primary
ones), you would expect this to have a light, watery texture, too.
Origin s Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Soothing Treatment Lotion: A
watery, Japanese-style lotion with more emollient properties than
most.
And sure enough, as expected, when I tried this out, it was a watery lotion
(think of the Japanese-style lotions) that absorbed very fast. I felt like it did
help to moisturize my skin in this hot and humid climate, but because it was
mostly water, if you're in a dry climate, you may want to follow up with amoisturizer. In warmer months though (like Singapore now!), this might just
be sufficient if you have oily skin. I picked this because I thought it
represented a good option from the range for oilier skins that want to try
out a skincare product from the Mega-Mushroom range.
Secondly, the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Advanced Face Serum.
his would be my pick for normal to dry skin - it's not for the driest of skins
(for that, you can opt for the Soothing Face Cream as well), but hydrates
pretty well across the board.
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Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Advanced Face Serum:Packed with emollients and plant extracts.
ake a look at the ingredients list, again showing the first 15 ingredients:
Water, Jojoba Seed Oil, Glycerin, Yeast Extract, Olive Fruit Oil,
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Meadowfoam Seed
Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,
Orange Oil, Lavender Oil, Patchouli)Oil, Mandarin Orange Peel Oil,
Geranium Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil, etc.
he first thing you'll notice is the plant oils and extracts that I've mentioned.
here really are a lot of them, and Origins seems to have formulated with
them in fairly high concentrations, which is good if that's the main reason
ou're buying the product. Other than the plant extracts, you'll find
primarily humectants (Glycerin), emollients (Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic
riglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin). Again, the primary benefit of this,
other than the plant extracts, is the skin-conditioning benefits, and
hydration.
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Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Advanced Face Serum: Alsosimilar to the Soothing Face Lotion in feel and application.
So, when I used this product, I was expecting it to be quite thick or heavy,
given how many emollients were in there. Surprisingly, it was more like a
light gel, which absorbed fast. It's moisturizing enough that I didn't feel like I
had to use another product over it, but if you live in a dry or cold climate
ou might wish to do so anyway because this light lotion alone may not be
sufficient. I picked this because I thought that as a fast absorbing serum
with emollient and hydration benefits, this would be one that most people
would find usable in their skincare regime.
Now, the lone eye product in the Mega-Mushroom range, which is the
Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Eye Serum. Out of the 8 products in the
Mega-Mushroom range, this is the only one for the eye, which is why I
picked it.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Eye Serum: An eye serum
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with emollients and humectants.
Since you've seen the ingredients list for the previous two products, you'll
probably know what to expect this time round. Here are the first 15
ingredients again:
Water, Myrtus Communis (Myrtle) Leaf Water, Anthemis Nobilis
(Chamomile) Flower Water, Methyl Trimethicone, Yeast Extract,
Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 40, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate,
Silica, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,
Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract, Cordyceps
Sinensis (Mushroom) Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root
Extract, etc.
Ingredients-wise, this consists mainly of emollients (Cetyl Ricinoleate), and
humectants (Butylene Glycol). There are also a couple of silicones (Methyl
rimethicone, Dimethicone) which in this case also function primarily asemollients. Of course, there are emulsifiers (Polysorbate 4, PEG-100
Stearate) which is necessary in any product combining oil and water. Again,
as with the face products, the main draw of this product would be the plant
extracts, because the remainder of the formulation is pretty stripped-down,
with Origins choosing to let the plant oils and extracts take center stage.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Eye Serum: A light but
emollient eye serum.
he first thing I noticed when I used the Skin Relief Eye Serum was that it
doesn't have the citrus-y, linanool-like scent that I found all the other
products in the range to have so far. Perhaps this is because it's formulated
or the eye area, and they wanted to keep it suitable for the eye. I couldn'treally place the scent of this - it was more subtle (perhaps mushroom-y
might be a way to describe it), but in any case, after application there isn't
any scent. And as expected, with the emolliency of the product, I felt like it
did moisturize my eye area. It feels more thin and balmy (like a lighter
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version of a facial oil) than thick and creamy however, once you rub it in,
and after a few seconds it absorbs fairly fast. Origins claims that this is a
serum and you can use it under your eye cream, but depending on your
skin type, if your skin isn't particularly dry, you may find that this does a
good enough job of moisturizing your skin on its own.
Origin s Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Range: Best for d ry skin that
needs some help rep airing the barrier function.
So, what's my overall view on the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range? In
order to answer this question, we'll need to consider two key features ofthe skincare range, namely 1) it is formulated generally with quite a lot of
emollient products (especially the serums and cream products), and 2) it is
ormulated with quite a significant number of plant oils and extracts.
So, let's start off with the first point. Since the range is formulated to be
generally quite emollient, I'd say you'll probably like this best if you have dry
skin to start off with. People with aging skins might also like this, because
skin tends to get drier as it ages. If you have oily skin, then you might want
to pick the more lightly-formulated lotion products (the Soothing Treatment
Lotion and Soothing Face Lotion are good picks) rather than go for the
serums and the creams. If you have very dry skin, then the Soothing Face
Cream, with its thicker texture, will probably be better for you. So do play
around with the range to see what products you like best - after all, this is
a range with two lotions, a serum, and a cream all for your face only. So
some judicious choosing of products will help here.
Now, let's go on to the second point - the plant oils and extracts. I've
already spoken enough about the scientific literature behind the oils and
extracts, so I'd like to in my conclusion mention something about how this
range is marketed. One thing that I really respected about the product was
its commitment to its advertising - it advertises itself as a natural, plant-based product, and sure enough, the ingredients are indeed comprised
largely of plant extracts. That impressed me on its own because I've seen
lots of brands advertise themselves as being "natural", yet when you look
the ingredients list, it's clear that the plant extracts come in below the
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(Product was sent for review. Review is my complete and honest opinion. I am not affiliated
ith/compensated by the company.)
1 Tweet 15
Cleanser,Eye Cream,Face Mask,Ingredients Ana lysis,Lotion,Moisturizer, Origins, Serum, Skincare,
kincare Science
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preservative line, at levels of less than 0.1%. So to be fair, if you're a
consumer looking for more plant oils and extracts in your skin, this is a
range you could check out.
In all, I'd say if you 1) have dry skin 2) like plant-based skincare and can
tolerate plant extracts/oils in your products, this is worth checking out. If
ou have oily skin, you might want to test out some of the lotion products
before making a purchase. If you want to try samples of the product, you
can visit an Origins counter for a skin consultation, or you can also visit theClozette website to redeem some samples.
RE COM ME ND E D? F ORM UL AT ION P ACK AG INGEASE OF
USEEFFECTIVENESS
DEPENDS ON SKIN
SENSITIVITY 7/10 8/10 8/10 7/10
THE BOTTOM LINE: THIS IS PROBABLY A LOVE-IT-
OR-HATE-IT TYPE PRODUCT, WITH ITS HEAVY
USAGE OF PLANT OILS AND EXTRACTS. IF YOUHAVE SKIN THAT SUITS THOSE TYPES OF
INGREDIENTS, THEN YOU'LL F IND THIS A GREAT
WAY TO MOISTURIZE YOUR SKIN, WITH SOME
ADDITIONAL BENEFITS.
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hank you for commenting! I read each and every single comment! If you ask a
question in your comm ent, please check back to this post, as I will reply in a comment
o this post as well :) Please note that comments with soliciting links to shops or
websites will be removed. Thanks!
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