Utility Jackets Ss 15 Commercial Update

8/10/2019 Utility Jackets Ss 15 Commercial Update

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Utility jackets: S/S 15 men's commercial update

By Ben Perdue, WGSN, 02 April 2014

Premium Americana updates, sharpened-up outdoors influences and uniform styling are the important

stories across this functional outerwear category.

Suede two-pocket

The denim rider jacket gets a luxury makeover in suede for spring/summer, creating a premiumworkwear-inspired look that maintains the signature styling and hard-wearing qualities while focusing onhigh-end texture and fashion-led colours too. Classic two-pocket detailing at Louis Vuitton is combinedwith a more boxy silhouette as well as an unexpected shade of light blue, reinforcing the season's newapproach to traditional Americana.

Dior Homme spring/summer 2014 campaign

WGSN ANALYSIS

"Four-pocket field- jacket styling is havinga huge influence onfunctional pieces, fromauthentic-feelingoutdoors jackets tosmarter motorbike

jacket-inspired shapesthat are perfect for smart-caual styling,and even workwear blazers are beingupdated with thisstrong military detailingtrend.""Suede is theimportant premiumupdate here in termsof fabrics, bringing ahigh-end level toclassic hard-wearing

Americana items suchas the reworked denimrider jacket.""While colour remainsfunctional throughout,with an emphasis onmilitary greens andblues, brighter statement shades arealso coming throughwith an unexpectedfeel that's perfect for the younger end of themarket."

Sara MaggioniSenior Editor, What's inStore, WGSN

WGSN 2014
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Biker

Still popular as a vintage-inspired core item, the classic Perfecto-like biker jacket spans the youth end of the market, where it is an important piece for looks that overlay elements of styling lifted from selectsubcultures, and at the more premium-feeling end, updated with luxury leathers and tonal blackhardware. This key combination of tough, racing functionality with high-end fabrics is something thatBelstaff continues to explore this season.

Field jacket

Shifting focus back to more authentic outdoors looks, the lightweight field jacket is a strong commercial-looking contender to replace the field anorak, providing a simple military-inspired alternative with thesame familiar and practical vintage feel. Uniform-inspired colours and details are important, but updatessuch as the rounded drawstring collar seen at Visvim help lend traditional four-pocket styling a more

contemporary edge.

Suede jacket by Louis Vuitton Suede jacket by Tom Ford Suede jacket by Louis Vuitton Zara spring/summer 2014

Zara spring/summer 2014 Belstaff spring/summer 2014 Biker by Saint Laurent Eleven Paris spring/summer 2014

WGSN 2014
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Smart dispatch rider

This sharper take on four-pocket functionality, merging military utility with vintage motorbike jacketstyling, responds well to the growing demand for smart-casual outerwear items that have a practical feel,but that look smart with tailoring or premium denim. Longer lines and drawstring waists create asharpened-up, uniform-like fitted silhouette. The introduction of red at Bally this season also takes colour in a less familiar direction.

Utility blazer

Important on a commercial level becuase it balances functional styling with the casual appeal of unstructured blazers, the design of these utility inspired jackets again looks to military uniforms for stylingpointers, adopting safari-like flap pockets and collars with practical storm tabs. Colours follow suit,ranging from sandy neautrals to inky blues. Marni's larger 3D pockets this season update traditionaloutdoors styling with a sharper, more contemporary look.

Deluxe spring/summer 2014 Gant Rugger spring/summer 2014 Visvim spring/summer 2014 GSN street shot, Pitti Uomospring/summer 2014

Tommy Hilfiger Tailored lookbookpring/summer 2014

HE by Mango spring/summer 2014 Tommy Hilfiger Westcoasting lookbookspring/summer 2014

Bally spring/summer 2014

WGSN 2014
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Smart workwear jacket

This functional take on the Harrington updates basic workwear inspiration by combining a simplesilhouette and minimalist styling with more exciting print and colour ideas. Subtle vintage influences arealso important here, driving both the retro midtones and geometric patterns being used to sharpen upthese essential collared jacket shapes. The use of jungle stripes on outerwear at APC lends classiccamouflage a lighter, seasonal feel.

Uniform jacket

Merging elements of workwear jackets, lightweight bombers and traditional battledress blouses, thismilitary-inspired direction looks to uniform colours as well as styling, incorporating Airforce-like shades of grey-blues alongside deeper inky shades of indigo. Functional detailing is important here, with extra or mismatched pockets or tab-fastenings such as those seen at Customellow this season helping toemphasise the practical roots of this trend.

Toast spring/summer 2014 Marni spring/summer 2014 Customellow spring/summer 2014 GSN street shot, Bread & Butter Berlin,July 2013

Ben Sherman spring/summer 2014 Orley spring/summer 2014 APC spring/summer 2014 GSN street shot, Paris Fashion Week,June 2013

WGSN 2014
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Chore jacket

Very big at this season's Bread Butter trade show in Berlin, where a lot of workwear influences are tobe expected, the chore jacket has been rethought and shrunken for spring/summer. These newproportions bring it in line with the traditional French utility jacket, but key styling details such as thecontrast corduroy collar help it maintain its Americana character. Mauro Grifoni reworked the chore jacketin denim this season as an alternative to the usual duck canvas.

Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2014 GSN street shot, Milan Fashion Week,June 2013

Customellow spring/summer 2014 GSN street shot, Paris Fashion Week,June 2013

GSN street shot, Bread & Butter Berlin,uly 2013

Mauro Grifoni spring/summer 2014 GSN street shot, Bread & Butter Berlin,July 2013

GSN street shot, Bread & Butter Berlin,July 2013

WGSN 2014
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Utility Jackets Ss 15 Commercial Update

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