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Nileand void

Egypt

Hauntingly empty

deserts, bustling lifealong the Nile River,millennia-old majestictemples and pyramids,breathtaking sunrisesand sunsets, bellydancing, bazaars andfriendly folk NELLIEHUANG, guided bya camel owner, a

Bedouin desert guideand a felucca captain,falls in love withEgypts many faces.

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AS WE SWAYED BACK and orth on our camels, bumpingagainst their humps, we were warmly greeted by anunobstructed view o the majestic Pyramids o Giza. Inront o us lay the sprawling Giza Necropolis where the onlyremaining Ancient Wonder o the World sits. The mightypyramids were constructed as tombs or the ancient Pharaohsand their wives. We continued on our camels until we reachedan elevated sandy patch that provided a panoramic view o the

pyramids aligned in one straight row.

Next to the pyramids lies the Great Sphinx, a sandstonegure with the ace o an ancient King, and a lion's body, builtover 4,500 years ago. The camels slowly carried us to theoot o the biggest pyramid, the Cheops. As the aternoonsrays shone over the peak o Cheops, we took in the inspiringbeauty o this architectural masterpiece in the desert heat.

This was the frst o our many rides through Egypt. Ourfrst day in Cairo, and here we were, riding past theWorlds oldest monument.

Ancient capital:MemphisDismounting rom the camels, we drove urther south toMemphis. Once the ancient capital o Egypt, it was believed tobe an extensive city. In the Museum, the gigantic limestone

EGYPT

WesternDesert

Giza

NILE

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Cairo

Thebes

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1 Gigantic statue o King

Ramses II at Memphis.

2 The sun lights up the

peak o Cheops.

3 The stunning entrance

o Abu Simbel.

4 A water-bualo grazes

the felds by the banks

o the Nile.

5 Exploring the Western

deserts on a 4x4 Jeep.

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statue o one o the most importantPharaohs in history, King Ramses II,impresses by its sheer size.

The most monumental site in Memphis wasundeniably the worlds oldest standing steppyramid - Saqqara. Used as an importantcomplex or minor burials and ceremoniesor 3,000 years, the Saqqara is the burialground o the rst Pharaoh o Egypt, KingMenes. Cut rom rock, the gallery o tombs,

known as Serapeum, looked like the settingo Star Wars.

Nile River dinner cruiseAter a day o exploring the EgyptianMuseum and the grand souk o Khan El-Khalili, we relaxed on a Nile River dinnercruise, enjoying a stunning night view oCairo, a sumptuous spread o authentic localcuisine (buet style) and entertaining bellydance perormances.

In contrast with ancient Egyptian culture,auent locals refected modern-day Egypt.Dressed to the nines, they openly enjoyedtheir east and danced along to the MiddleEastern rhythm.

Desert adventures on a 4x4 jeepWith a vast part o Western Egypt coveredby desert, we ventured away rom thecity into the heart o the country. Arrivingat the bus terminal o Bahariya Oasis,we transerred to a jeep with two ellowbackpackers and our guide Mohammed.

Trekking through the Crystal Mountain,we were stunned by odd rocky ormations.Frolicking in the sand dunes and the BlackDesert, we passed varying landscapes,one ater another. In the evening, weound ourselves driving through thelegendary White Desert where chalkormations create an intriguing phenomenalenvironment.

As the sun set, our Bedouin guide set up atent in the middle o the desert to prepareor a barbeque dinner and a night under thestars. With a campre, Mohammed dishedout juicy roast chicken and tomato stew,

as we shared tales and laughter in the colddesert air. Snuggled in our sleeping bags,staring out into an endless sky o sparklingstars was a surreal experience that remainsetched in my memory.

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The shimmering

Luxor Temple by nightAter a sleepless night on the creaking train,we were embraced by our new host in thecity o Luxor, and guided to his hostel. Thegenuine hospitality o the Egyptians washeart-warming.

Standing grandly in the heart o town,Luxor Temple is a sacred religious grounddedicated to Amun (God o Creation) andMut(Mother Goddess), greeting pilgrimswith two colossal statues o King RamsesII at its entrance. As night ell, the lit-uptemple shimmered gloriously in a mysticalgolden glow as we walked through its widepylons (monumental gateways).

Along the Corniche, we were spoilt orchoice as restaurants line the boulevardoverlooking the Nile River. With an elegant

breezy atmosphere, Egyptian ood wasserved in the orm o Seleq(lamb stew withrice), and pistachio cous-cous(Arabic rice). Itwas the perect setting to unwind under theArabian moonlight.

Sailing a felucca along the NileSeizing the cool evening breeze the nextday, we embarked on a lazy journey ona elucca to catch the sunset. Thesetraditional Egyptian sailboats have beenused since antiquity and are symbols oEgypts past and present. Our captainAhmad was eager to show us a personalside o the Nile, sharing his tales ogrowing up on its banks. Along the way,we waved to village boys, saw bualosbusy at work and camels resting by theriver. With Ahmads anecdotes, Arabictea and ragrant shisha(Middle Easternwater pipes), we witnessed the famingsun setting against the backdrop o thebustling Nile River.

Sunrise at the Abu Simbel TempleA two-hour train ride away, Aswan exudes

a quiet charm that is missing rom theother cities. On the rootop o our budgethostel, we had a stunning view o theEl-Tabia Mosque on one side, and thesouthern tip o the Nile River on the other.

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6 Luxor Temple by Night.

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Waking up at 3am or our day trip to theUNESCO World Heritage sites, we set o ina police-escorted convoy (required by law).

Barely awake, little did we know that thislast destination would be the highlight oour journey through Egypt.

As we reached Lake Nasser, the famingsun rose gloriously over the regal AbuSimbel Temple. Originally carved out o amountainside, the Abu Simbel is one othe Nubian monuments, built as a lastingmonument to Pharaoh Ramses IIand hiswie Nefertari. The temple was preciselybuilt in such a way, that the suns raysilluminated its sanctuary on the kings

birthday and coronation day.

The day came to an end at the Templeo Philae. The unique temple, built on anisland in the Nile River, is accessible onlyby boat. As we approached by water, thecolonnades, pylons and palm trees, lookedlike a dreamy mirage. Like the temple, thisincredible journey through Egypt elt likea mystical ride through time. Magical andmysterious it was impossible not to all orEgypts charms.

The best time to visit Egypt is

rom mid-October to May, whentemperatures are not too high. But italso means jostling with more tourists.Avoid the Khamsin wind, a warmdesert wind that blows between Marchand April, bringing with it sand anddust!

Hiking shoes and thin clothing areessential or the hot weather andterrain. Ladies need to dress moreconservatively to respect their Islamicculture.

Every city has a souk (local bazaar)that sells a wide range o Egyptiansouvenirs and products. Scour throughthe stalls to nd the best Arabic tea,preserved dates and shisha (waterpipes) or keepsakes.

Qatar Airways oer some o the

best and cheapest airares to Cairo.Turkish Airlines and Emirates also fyrom Singapore to Cairo. Train travelwithin Egypt is highly convenient andaordable.

Accommodation in Egypt is relativelycheap. Budget hostels cost aroundUS$10 a night or a double room.The best location to stay in all themajor cities is along the Corniche (NileRiverside).

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When to Go:

What to Bring:

What to Buy:

How to Get There:

Where to Stay:

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7 The Souk o Luxor.

8 Temple o Philae.

9 An elevated view o

the Nile River and el

Corniche in Aswan.