Untitled-1 []€¦ · daruharidra root in 6 parts of water is left overnight in a vessel. The roots...

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1. IntroductionMan has always been fascinated by the abundance ofcolour in nature and the stains from juices of leaves,fruits, flowers, roots and barks have inspired them todecorate the fabric [1]. The use of natural dyes fordyeing textile materials had become a part of veryancient life style of our country. One can probablytrace the history of Indian 'dyes' to the time of Mohenjo-Daro (c. 3000 B. C.) and the chemical examinations ofthe fabric believed to be from Mohenjo-Daro, suggeststhe use of Madder i.e. Rubia cordifolia for the colouringpurpose [2]. India has been known as the world's larg-est dye-producing country with unlimited variations ofdyes having excellent quality from times immemorial[1].The colouring of textiles was given a lot of importancein India and the art of dyeing excelled. The prepara-tory processes involved before dyeing were also givensame degree of importance as that of actual dyeingand weaving process. The Indian craftsman's knowl-edge of the technology of dyeing of textiles remaineda closely guarded secret for a long time and India hada virtual monopoly in the production of dyed, paintedand printed textiles with natural dyes [3]. Amongst thenaturally occurring dyes, the red shade obtained fromroots of Madder, extensively grown in Europe, MiddleEast and Asia was considered very important [4].Aal (Morinda citrifolia, Morinda tinctoria, Morinda

multiflora, Morinda persicaefolia and Morindaaugustifolia) [5] is easily available in major parts of thecountry and extensively used to dye textiles in redshade. The dye yielded from Aal is not as rich as thatfrom Madder. Aal is also known as ack, ach, acchu,surangi, sorangi and kunaka in various parts ofRajasthan, Gujarat and Maharashtra and asauch, ach,achoo, aoosh, ashkari, challi, chalu, chili, hardi,darudaridra, malancba, barketari, kat, kasotta, mallikain Bihar, Orissa and the then Bengal. The colouringmatter present is more in the root than in any otherparts [5].

2. Aal dyeing processes in ancient IndiaThe red colour developed in the Marwar district ofRajasthan with Aal is called Chol and in some placesthe use of metals and the dye yielding parts has alsonot been reported [5]. In Surat and Ahmadabad redcolour is mostly developed with Aal. In various regionsof Bihar, Orissa and Bengal, Morinda tinctoria popu-larly known as rang-gachare is used for producing redcolour. It gives reddish brown colour on cotton [5]. InDarbhanga of Bihar, the roots, bark and twigs werecalled gintonan, chhar and power respectively. Thecolours obtained vary from reddish yellow to pink andalso various shades of red to dark brownish red [5].

2.1 Preparatory processesPreparatory process involves the use of oil and dung.The most usual process is to steep the yarn for two tosix days in a mixture of powdered castor oil seeds orcastor oil and cow dung or sheep dung. It is thenremoved, washed well in soft water and dried. Some-times, the yarn is boiled in this decoction instead of

Aal Dyeing - Past and Present

Amita Dutta1, Deepali Singhee1 & Sankar Roy Maulik2*1 J.D. Birla Institute (Affiliated to Jadavpur University),

2 Visva-Bharati University, Department of Silpa-Sadana, Sriniketan

AbstractIndia is renowned for the wide variety and excellence in her use of natural dyes in textiles. Aal is one suchdye which is used almost in all parts of India for achieving red colour due to its abundant presence.However, the use of synthetic dyes is responsible for declining the use of Aal dye. The process of dyeingas well as its preparation before dyeing varies from place to place. The tribal (Mirgan) community of Kotpad,Koraput in Odisha still uses Aal root barks to dye their unprocessed cotton yarn and weave hand wovencotton textiles.

KeywordsAal, Castor oil, Dung, Tribes

* All the correspondence should be addressed to,Dr. Sankar Ray Maulik,Assistant Professor - III, Department of Silpa-Sadana,Visva-Bharati(A Central University), Sriniketan-731236, District:Birbhum (WB).E Mail: [email protected]

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being merely steeped in it. In some places, the dung isomitted and the yarn is simply rubbed well with charredseeds of castor and then dyed. Sometimes, plantainashes or the alkaline earth called khar, is also usedinstead of, or in addition to the sheep or cow dung. Inexceptional cases like in Balasore (Orissa), the yarn isprepared for dyeing by steeping it in the juice of well-ripened pumpkins (boital or kudoo) or water melons(pani-kakharu) in the proportion of 2:1 of yarn to juiceratio [5].

At Lohardaga (Bihar), the yarn is rubbed well with amixture of charred seeds of castor with water andcow dung, and kept in this paste for two days. It isthen steeped and rubbed daily for 21 days in the ashwater made from the ashes of the bija of sirgooja (theoil seed Guizotia oleifera), then boiled in this ash waterand finally rinsed in cold water. For one kilogram ofyarn, equal proportion of castor oil and 117 grams ofcow dung are required [5].

In Cooch Bihar in West Bengal, the cotton yarn issteeped for three or four nights in a mixture of castoroil and country salt (ashes of plants), then dried andwashed in soft water. In Jalpaiguri (West Bengal), cot-ton yarn is first mixed with oil and alkali, and kept inthis state for a month. It is then washed well anddried [5].

In Cuttack in Orissa, yarn is steeped in a mixture ofcold water, castor oil, a little cow dung, and any of thealkaline ashes. It is then rubbed vigorously at intervalsand taken out. This same process is continued for fourto five days, after which it is washed in cold water anddried [5].

2.2 Preparation of dye bathThe common practice to prepare the dye solution iscutting the roots, or sometimes only the bark of theroots, into small pieces, pounding them well, and steep-ing or boiling them in water. Generally, the dye bathalong with the roots is used for dyeing purpose. Some-times, the roots are also taken out from the dye bathand only the dye liquor is used for dyeing purpose [5].In many cases, mordant is not used during the dyeingprocess. Preparation of dye bath varies from place toplace.

In Singhbhom of Bihar, Ach root bark is placed in coldwater with pounded castor seed and cow dung andallowed to infuse. The decoction is then boiled with theyarn to be dyed. A purplish red colour is obtained [5].

At Lohardaga in Bihar, a solution is made by boiling 1part of lodh leaves, 2 parts of wood ashes with 8 partsof water and then filtered. The yam, after being wellrubbed with charred castor oil seed, is steeped in theabove solution and dried. This process of steeping anddrying is repeated four times. 2 parts of challi root barkis then boiled in 4 parts of water. The dried yarn issteeped in this solution, till deep red colour is obtained[5].

In another process a solution is made by boiling 2 partsof lodh leaves in 7 parts of water. One part powderedchalli root bark is added to this. One part of bleachedcotton yarn is rubbed with this solution and then left tosteep for 24hrs. One part of fresh water is then addedand the solution is boiled till the entire water evapo-rates. After 12hrs, the yarn is rinsed in cold water anddried in shade. A fresh solution of 1/2 part of challi rootbark in lodh leaf is made, in which the yarn is againboiled and left to steep for 12hrs. It is then removed,washed in cold water, and dried in shade. A fine redcolour is obtained [5].

In Dinajpur in West Bengal, 5 parts of grounddaruharidra root in 6 parts of water is left overnight ina vessel. The roots are removed from the water in thenext day and 2 parts of yarn is steeped for a day. Then233gm of dry leaves of bhauri (Symplocos lucida) ismixed with the dye solution and boiled in an earthenpot and left to cool. The yarn is then removed andwashed. The process is repeated three to four times,using fresh dye material each time to obtain a freshred colour [5].

In Cooch Bihar of West Bengal, the fresh roots ofdaruharidra is bruised and steeped in water along witha small quantity of the powdered bark of the latkantree (Bixa orellana). In this extract, the pre-treatedyarn is steeped and boiled. It is then removed andwashed. This process is repeated twice or thrice be-fore the colour gets fixed. If powdered bhauli(Symplocos lucida) leaves are used instead of the barkof latkan, the resulting colour is a deeper red [5].

In Santal Parganas, the root of ach and bark of soodarepounded together and mixed with water. The pre-treatedyarn to be dyed is immersed with constant stirring andleft for 20 to 30 hours. It is then boiled and finallywashed in cold water and dried. The result is a lightshade of red and by repeating the process three orfour times, a deeper colour is obtained [5]. In anotherprocess, the bark and roots of achare crushed to veryfine powder and mixed with lime, ashes of burnt plants

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and castor seeds. This mixture is left for four days andthen boiled for a short time. The pre-treated yarn issteeped in this decoction and dried [5]. In Nadia (WestBengal), roots of achu are cut into small pieces, crushedin a dhenki and steeped in water. A little amount ofalum is mixed with it resulting in a fine red colour [5].In Darjeeling (West Bengal), hardi bark is pounded andsoaked in water. Ashes of plantain and the green leavesof bohari (Cordia myxa)is mixed with the solution andboiled. Yarn is repeatedly steeped in this dye extract,taken out and washed, till the desired shade isobtainedb [5].

In Balasore (Orissa), 1 kg of achhu, 100gms of lodhbark, 200 gms of karapani, 200 gms of castor oil andwater is boiled together. 900 gms of pre-prepared yarnis steeped in this solution. The colour is deepened byrepeated soaking [5].

In these three areas of the former provinces of Bihar,Bengal and Orissa, four other varieties of Morinda areused for red colour, namely: Morinda bracteata, Morindaaug- ustifolia, Morinda persicaefolia and Morinda SP,Morinda bracteata called hundi by Paharias andhuldikunj by Lepchas, is used as a red dye in the Teraiarea (Darjeeling district). Morinda augustfolia calledban hardi; is also used as a red dye by Nepalese andLepchas. In the Garo hills (Assam), the cotton yarn isdyed red with this (Assam Aal, chenang). Morindapersicaefolia is used by Paharias and Lepchas in placeof Aal. Morinda SP, known as rung-gach in Chittagong(now in Bangladesh) is used as a red dye. In dyeingwith rung-gach, as in the case of other species ofMorinda, the cotton yarn to be dyed is subjected to apreliminary process. Three methods are adopted fordyeing with rung-gach for red colour.

For cotton yarn weighing 5 seers, 5 seers of plantainash, 5 seers of water and 5 chittaks of karan oil arerequired. The plantain ash is dissolved in water andfiltered and karan oil is added to it. The yarn is soakedin this solution, rubbed vigorously and dried. The processis repeated for five days using the same solution. Onthe sixth day, it is washed well and dried. 5 seers ofroot of rung-gach mixed in 5 seers of water is poundedand washed in the same solution till all the colour comesout. Then 2 and a 1/2 chittacks of powdered dry barkof the kharula tree are taken and added to this extract.The previously prepared yarn is soaked in this dyesolution and dried. Then for seven successive days theyarn is boiled in this dye solution for an hour and thenallowed to dry. A dark red shade is obtained.

The cotton yarn is boiled in water to remove the greaseand dirt. It is then washed in cold water and dried. Itis then well soaked in a mixture of one part of mustardoil and three parts of ash solution made by imli ash ormustard plant ash in water and kept under cover fortwo days and then left in the sun for three days. It isagain soaked in fresh ash solution twice daily and leftin the sun for three days. The yarn is put out in thedew and then washed in cold water before dyeing.The root of rang-gachis powdered and added to thesolution of the ash of the imli tree/ ash of the kalaibamboo or akorya bamboo. The wet yarn is soaked inthis extract and kept under cover for three days to geta deep red colour.

1/2 seer of rung-gach roots is pounded into a pulp, andto it 1/3 seer of mustard oil and 1/2 seer of the ashobtained by burning either the young shoots of themirtinga bamboo or of the kalai bamboo or the greenwood of the imli tree are added. In the mixture oneseer of cotton yarn is soaked and kept in it for threedays, after which it is dried and washed with water toget rid of the oil. The result is a fine red colour [5].Morinda augustifoliais called achugachh or asukath bythe Assamese, chenung or chengrong by the Phakialsand Ntan by the Nagas. The Assamese dye red withasukath.

The Phakials steep the yarn in mustard oil or in oilobtained from a pig or elephant, and boil for an houror two, and leave to dry in the sun. When thoroughlydry, it is washed and boiled with wood ashes in waterand put out in the sun to bleach. Pounded achhugachand wood ashes are mixed in water and the yarn isplaced in the mixture and warmed over fire. It is thenallowed to stand for a day, after which, the yarn istaken out and left in the sun. The depth of the shadedepends on the number of times the yarn undergoesthe steeping process and subsequent exposure. Thisprocess is known in Sibsagar (in Assam) also, and it issaid that great care has to be taken to see that theyarn, after being steeped in the oil is ready for dyeing.The test applied to ascertain this is to burn a smallquantity of the yarn and if the ash is quite white, itimplies that the thread is ready, if not; the whole pro-cess of steeping and boiling has to be repeated [5].

In Sibsagar, the bark is used as well as the roots. InDibrugarh in Assam, manjit (Rubia) is used to makethe colour a deeper red along with the roots ofachhugachh. 4 parts of achhugachh root powder, onepart of majethi (Rubia), 8 parts of mustard oil and 8

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parts of water or ash water (kharpani)are used. It issaid that iron or brass utensils should be used in theprocess. The yarn is placed in these ingredients andwarmed for two or three hours over a slow fire andthen left to dry in the sun. The process is repeated forthree consecutive days.

In North Lakhimpur sub-division (in Assam), a deepred colour is obtained by mixing lime with poundedroots and bark of the achhugachh[5].

In Goalpara (Assam), leaves of the lateku (Baccauriasapida)are said to be used partly as a mordant andpartly to make the colour a deeper red. For 2 seers ofyarn, a seer of pounded chips of the bark and roots isboiled in 5 seers of water.

In Darung, only wood is used. One eighth of a seer ofacchugachh wood is pounded and boiled in 2 seers ofwater; one seer of yarnis boiled in the mixture for twohours, and while boiling, 2 tolas (25 gms) oflateku(Baccauria sapida) bark are thrown in as amordant. No mustard oil or plantain ash is used. Thered colour so obtained is rendered more permanent bysubsequently boiling the yarn with bharathi leaves [5].In the Garo Hills of Assam, the roots of chenang usedfor dyeing red are probably the roots of a variety ofAal tree. The preliminary process of cleaning is similarto that used elsewhere in Aal dyeing. The yarn isrubbed well with pounded sesame seeds and the leavesof bambi or daggal(Sacrochlamys-pulcherrima) and leftfor two days and was then washed well. The dyesolution is made by pounding the roots, steeping themin water and then boiling it three or four times in suc-cession. When cool, the treated yarn is added. Thesolution is heated at 600C. When the liquid cools, thethread is removed and washed. It is then again steepedin the dye liquor, heated, taken out and washed.Theseprocesses are repeated twice or thrice till the colour issufficiently fast [5].

The plants called jeng, ganang, yador in Cachar, asukathin Assam, larnong in the Khasi hills and gisak in theGaro hills are probably a variety of all (Morandacitrifolia). Jeng is used with linseed oil (Linumusitatissimum) and kharapani in Cachar to produce ared colour[5].

In the Khasi hills, the seeds of the nei plant are poundedto powder and placed with the grey yarn in a vessel.The vessel is filled with hot water and then the yarnis taken out and dried in the sun. This process is re-

peated daily for a week. Then the bark of thelapongdong (Symplocos racemosa) tree and the barkof the root of the larnong (Morinda tinctoria) tree arepounded well and the powders well mixed, in equalquantities, in a vessel with water. The yarn is then putin and after letting it steep, taken out and dried in thesun till it became hard. It is then washed with hotwater and the process is repeated [5].

The commonest form of Morinda used in NEFA (nowArunachal Pradesh) is undoubtedly Morinda augustifolia;the other varieties are used chiefly by the hill tribes,especially the Khasis and Garos [5].

In Nagpur (Maharashtra), the yarn to be dyed is put incastor oil mixed water and kept for three to five days;it is then removed and dried in the sun. It is thenplaced in water in which doura wood ashes (plantainashes gave a better shade) has been mixed and thentaken out and dried in the sun. This is repeated twiceor thrice daily for two or three days. The material isthen put in the hot Aal dye solution (just short of boil-ing) and the dye is kept at the same heat. When theyarn is deep red it is removed, washed and dried in thesun. A fast red colour results [5].

In Chanda (Madhya Pradesh), and in Sambalpur(Orissa), the cotton yarn is dyed a brilliant red colourwith Aal root. A quantity of Terminalia arjuna woodash is diluted in water in a large earthen vessel. Thisis then strained through a cloth into another vessel anda small quantity of castor oil solution is added. The-cotton hanks are then soaked in the mixture and leftfor two or three days, taking the hanks out twice aclay, drying them in the sun and again putting in themixture. The yarn is then soaked in plain warm waterand squeezed by hand to remove water. It is then driedin the sun and is ready for dyeing. A quantity of poundedand strained Aal and a small quantity of Symplocosracemosa, in the proportion of 20 to 2 are mixed inwarm water, and the yarn is soaked in this for an hour.It is then removed and the water squeezed out of theyarn. Then Aal and Symplocos racemosa is rubbedinto the thread with the hands. The yarn is then putback into the colouring matter solution and allowed tosoak for three days, after which it is put on the fire andallowed to simmer till no liquid is left. The yarn is thenallowed to cool for six hours and lastly washed in coldwater and dried in the sun. The dyeing process isrepeated twice as otherwise the colour, although fast,would not be a brilliant red [5].

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In Buldana (Maharashtra), the cotton hank is firstsoaked in water containing the ash of the palash treefor twelve hours. After soaking, the liquid is removed,leaving the palash sediment, and a mixture of goatdung and til oil is mixed with it. The yarn is thensteeped in the mixture during the night and taken outnext morning and dried. This process is repeated forten days, and then the yarn is ready for dyeing. Theoiled and dunged yarn is then soaked in the Aal solu-tion for twelve hours, and then boiled for about an houruntil the yarn has taken on the desired colour. The yarnthus dyed is used by the weavers only for the bordersof the cloths which are, as a rule, always white(grey) [5].

The "cold dyeing" process followed in Surat andAhmedabad in Gujarat requires the yarn to be washedin plain water and dried, then steeped in a saponaceousmixture khuranni which is prepared by mixing castoroil, carbonate of soda (kharo), and water. The yarn isallowed to soak in this mixture for one night and driedwithout being washed. It is then exposed to the sun forseven hours and thereafter steeped in a small quantityof fresh water, beaten well, and kept tied in a moiststate for the night. The next morning, it is again ex-posed to the sun. This process is repeated successivelyfor eight days. The yarn acquires soft silk-like texture.A watery solution of powdered Aal root is prepared inan earthen vessel (kunda). A solution of alum preparedin boiling water is poured in the kunda and stirred. Theyarn is steeped in the mixture and stirred well and leftto soak for twenty-four hours and then stirred brisklyagain. This is repeated for four days after which theyarn is taken out, washed and dried. The dyed yarn isdipped in the alkaline solution of sodium carbonate (1part) and water (8 parts) and dried [5].

3. Aal dye in present IndiaKotpad from Koraput district in eastern Odisha is oneplace where the tribal women Panikas of Mirgan castecontinue dyeing their yarns with Aal bark roots as theyhave been doing for centuries. The weavers (MirganPanikers) produce exquisite kotpad cotton sarees fromthis unique Aal dyed yarns.

Kotpad is a small tribal handloom cluster situated at18.480 North (latitude) and 82.420 East (longitude),about 70 km away from Koraput in the state of Orissa,bordering Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh [6].The plain weaves of Aal dyed yarns by the tribalweavers (Mirgana caste) of this cluster have occupieda prominent place in the map of Indian Handloom

Industry. The cluster is surrounded by the dense forestof Malkangiri and Umerkote area of the district. Dueto favorable climatic condition Aal trees grow abun-dantly in these forests which are not found in anyother forest of the country [5].

The Malkangiri jungles lying in the interiors of EasternGhats is home to a number of tribes like the Santhal,Kondh, Gond, Munda, Oraon and Bondo. The regionhas enjoyed greater immunity as it has been isolatedfrom the rest of the country by a range of hills on theWest, and the Bay of Bengal on the East. Conse-quently, the textiles of this region have retained a dis-tinct native identity. The members of these tribes aretotally self sufficient and cultivate their own land; spin,dye and weave fabrics for their own use.

The Panikars (weavers) of Mirgan caste have beenweaving textiles for all the tribes living in these easternhills of Odisha probably since 3rd Century BC [5].They dye thick rough hand spun cotton yarns directlypurchased from Jagdalpur (Chattisgarh), Rayagada andSambalpur (Odisha) in varying shades of red usinglocally available Aal roots through an indigenous pro-cess. The men weave these naturally dyed yarns onrudimentary pit looms using three shuttle weaving tech-nique. Motifs are mostly inspired from nature, havesymbolic meanings and are specific to occasions. Theyare woven using extra weft. In spite of being roughspun, these sarees are simple and elegant.

3.1 Raw materialsEarlier women artisans would hand spin wild cottonand/or silk into yarn. This "katcha suta" or unproc-essed cotton yarn is used to weave the cloth [5]. Todaythe cotton yarn is purchased from Sambalpur in theform of muda (rolls) packed in peti (box or cartoon).The number of muda in a peti depends on the count(Table-1). Tussar yarns are purchased from Jagdalpur,Rayagada and Sambalpur.

Table-1: Number of cotton rolls vis-a-vis its count

Count No. of Muda (Cotton Rolls) in a Peti

10s 10

20s 20

60s 30

80s 40

100s 50

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Aal root Bark is collected for dyeing of yarns from theAal tree roots, after rainy season and before the startof winter and stored for the use throughout the year.The experienced dyers of Kotpad mention that theyounger trees do not give good dye. They use barks ofthe roots of trees more than 40 years of age. Flowersof this tree are small and whitish in colour like Jasmineflowers and have similar fragrance too. These treesare 30 to 40 feet tall and found in the mountains. Barkof the roots, 4 to 8 cm in diameter, is taken out to beused for dyeing. Barks of thinner roots give richercolour. The bark of the roots from mature trees can betaken again and again every year avoiding the mon-soon period. These pieces of collected bark is brokeninto smaller pieces and stored. They dry these barkpieces further and pound them in a dhenki (poundinginstrument used to take out the husk from rice) andstore them.

Today Aal (Morinda citrifolia or Indian mulberry) treesare planted and cultivated for easy procurement ofroot bark for dye. Due to cultivation the plants bearflowers and fruits within 3 to 4 years. The roots arethen ready to give bark for dye. The roots spread outon ground and are not too deep. Bark of the rootsthicker than 1.3 cm are not used. With cultivation, rootsof trees more than 4 years of age have become use-less. Thicker and older roots do not produce root barkswith dyeing substance. The root barks are collected bytribal and still sold to the women of Mirgan tribe fromKotpad at tuesday weekly haat of Kotpad for up toRs 2,000 to Rs. 3000 (depending on the quality) for a10 kg sack.The entire pre-treatment and dyeing workis done by women of only 12 houses in Kotpad belong-ing to the family of weavers.

Today the procured root barks are broken into smallerpieces and are washed properly to remove impurities.The root bark pieces swell when they come in contactwith water and therefore are dried by spreading on achatai (reed mat) in the sun. These dried bark piecesare nowadays powdered in electrical grinders and storedin earthen pots for further use. High humidity of rainyseason degenerates this powder, thus dyeing is done inwinter and dry months that is between November andApril.

Thus when the bark is taken from trees of the forest,trees of the age of 30 to 40 years are considered good,but when they are cultivated, age of 3 to 4 years isdesirable [5].

Fig. 1 Raw materials used in Aal dyeing

3.2 Steps before dyeingThe method of dyeing and weaving of Kotpad textileshas its own significance and uniqueness.

Yarn varying from 10 to 20 counts (generally 14 counts)is taken in 4 knots (approximately 650 gms) at a time.They are linked together so that they can easily bespread and dried on wooden planks or chatais (reedmats). A maximum amount of 50 Kgs is taken at atime.

Colour from Aal has no direct affinity for the cottonyarn and hence the yarn is treated with castor oil, cowdung and alkaline water before dyeing.

3.2.1 Treatment with castor oilCastor oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus com-munis (Linn).4 knots of yarn (4 knots of 20s yarnweighs 650 g) is immersed completely in water andafter squeezing of excess water it is spread on a chataior a wooden plank. 500 g of good quality castor oilmixed in 5 lts of maand (rice water) is sprinkled on theyarn. The yarn is rubbed with the palm for about 15min and further kneaded with the feet for another 15min (Fig. 2).

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Fig. 2

3.2.2 Treatment with cow dung2 to 3 Kg of cow dung is required for the 4 knots ofyarn. Fresh dung is collected in earthenware and asmall quantity of water is added and mixed to createa thick paste. This paste is slowly smeared and rubbedon the wooden plank or chatai on the castor oil treatedyarn. Gradually the entire yarn is well coated with cowdung (Figure 3). The yarn is then placed on the chatai/wooden plank or hung and dried in presence of sun-light.

The process involving castor oil and cow dung is doneonly once even though other steps for dyeing are re-peated for darker/ richer colour.

Fig. 3

3.2.3 Treatment with kharapani (alkaline solution)2 kg of ash from burnt wood or Niger seed husk (Ramtil / kala til) or gingili/ seasom stalk (safed til) is addedto 25 lts of water in an earthen pot. The solution is well

stirred and then allowed to settle. The clear waterfrom the top is poured in another earthen pot andheated to a temperature of around 500C to 600C. Theoil and dunged yarn is spread evenly on wooden plank/chatai. The kharapani is sprinkled by hand on the driedyarn till it is totally drenched. They are kneaded byhand and foot for 15 min and spread to dry. The sprin-kling of kharapani is repeated 3 to 4 times every dayand is done for about 8 consequitive days. Thus thekharapani treatment is repeated 25 to 30 times till theyarns start foaming with the application of kharapani.The yarn is then dipped in clean water, washed thor-oughly and dried. After washing, the yarn looks yel-lowish brown and is ready to absorb the Aal dye (Fig-ure 4).

Fig. 4

3.2.4 Dyeing processAbout 1 kg of Aal powder is mixed with 10 liter ofwater and stirred well to get a good suspension in anearthen pot. 4 knots (650 g yarn) pre-treated cottonyarn is immersed in the pot. The soaked yarn is thentaken out and spread on a wooden plank. Another 500g of Aal powder is sprinkled over it and the yarn isfurther rubbed and kneaded for 10 to 15 min. The yarnis then kept into the earthen pot with Aal suspensionand the pot is kept in the sun for a day. The pot is thenput on fire and the suspension boiled till the waterevaporates. The yarn is stirred intermittently using awooden stick. The yarn is then washed and dried inthe sun. Dyed yarn is called Achi.

Pre treatment with kharapani and dyeing with Aalpowder may be repeated several times to achieve richerand deeper shades of red (Fig. 5). Once the desiredshade is achieved, the yarn is thoroughly washed in

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clean flowing water and dried. This dried yarn is readyfor weaving.

Ferrous sulphate (kumahar pathar) is used to dye theyarn in shades of blackish bluish red. The slag obtainedfrom the local cottage iron smelting industry is mixedwith jaggery and water and fermented in mud pot tillthe solution becomes black. Thereafter, this solution ismixed with Aal powder suspension and dyeing processis continued as before. For a deeper bluish black-redcolour 500-250 g of copper sulphate is also used in thethird bath.

It takes a minimum of 3 weeks to complete one dyeingcycle. This unique dyeing process makes the cloth softand does not leave any shine or smell. The colour isradiant and fast.

Kotpad weavers work with only yarns dyed with Aalroot bark in shades of red, ranging from dull brick red(jyotil ancha), bright brick red (Kariya ancha), deepmaroon red (Jyotil gahir), blackish maroon (Kariya gahir)to chocolate brown (kala) along with "kora" shade ofcotton (unbleached white). This combination makes theirtextiles unique.

Fig. 5

4. ConclusionsToday only 12 panikas(women dyers) are continuingwith Aal dyeing. All of them belong to Kotpad and thusdyeing is limited only to Kotpad. They do not preferusing fine yarn as they feel the yarn will lose its strengthdue to vigorous pre treatment and dyeing process.Thecotton yarn used to make the saree is expensive andthere is poor availability of Aal roots. Further, the ex-traction of the root bark and dyeing of the yarn in-volves a complicated and time consuming process. Thishas forced the tribal to use cheaper, more colourfuland easy to maintain mill-made sarees. The limitedvariations in colour and yarn quality have made thedemand for Kotpad textiles static. The present genera-tion has no interest in such labour intensive, repetitiveand less lucrative work. With the ready availability ofcheap synthetic dyes and relative ease of application agradual decline in the use of Aal dyes is noticed.

References1. Roy M., Dyes in Ancient and Medieval India,

Indian Journal of History of Science 13(2),84(1977).

2. Marshall J., Mohenjodaro and Indus Valley Civi-lization, , Arthur Probshtain, London, 1, 33(1931)

3. Agrawal O.P., Forward note, Natural dyeing pro-cesses of India (Studies in contemporary textilecrafts of India), Calico Museum of Textiles,Sarabhai Foundation, Ahmedabad, 1987.

4. Shenai V.A., Technology of Textile processing,Volume II, Chemistry of Dyes and Principles ofDyeing, Sevak Publications, (1973)

5. Mohanty B. C., Chandramouli K. V andNaik H.D,Dyeing of cotton yarn in Aal in Kotpad(Orissa),Natural dyeing processes of India (Stud-ies in contemporary textile crafts of India), (CalicoMuseum of Textiles, Sarabhai Foundation,Ahmedabad), (1987).

6. Odisha District Gazetteers, Koraput, GopabandhuAcademy of Administration [Gazetteers Unit],General Administration Department, Governmentof Odisha, https://cdn.s3waas.gov.in/ retrieved on29th September 2018.

7. Rao B., Kotpad/Bastar Tribal Textiles, https://www.facebook.com/creative beetextiles (retrievedon 12thSeptember 2018).

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1. IntroductionTextile processing industry consumes huge amountofwater, chemicals and energy. The generated effluent inturn contains hazardous, toxic and non-biodegradablesubstances causing many carcinogenic diseases [1][2].Interest towards revival of natural colourants in textilesis proliferating with rapid rise in awareness about en-vironmental conservation [3][4]. The natural colourantsand finishes have many advantages over synthetic oneslike they are non toxic, biodegradable, non carcino-genic and helps in reducing the carbon footprints [5][6].Thus, there is an increasing interest to find renewableresources for the production of natural dyes. There-fore unwanted wastes from agriculture and forestappear as a good choice of raw material for extractionof colours [7-11].Arjuna is one such tree belonging toCombretaceae family which is a host plant of tasar silkmoth [12]. It is also used in ayurveda owing to manymedicinal properties [13]. Its bark is soft and reddishin colour and contains large amount of bio activecontents[14]like flavanoids and tannins [15]. It is re-ported that aqueous extract of Terminalia arjunais re-ported to have 16% tannins [16] and 44% polyphe-nols[17]. Tannins are considered to have wound heal-

ing, astringent, hypotensive, antioxidant and antimicro-bial effects [18].

Natural fibres are susceptible to microbial attack asthese absorb moisture and provide suitable environ-ment required for microbial growth[19].Hence devel-opment of clothing that could provide a desired antimi-crobial effect becomes necessary in certain applica-tions. Many natural dyes and finishes exhibit antimi-crobial, antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic activities be-cause of the components present in them [20-23], whichmake them ideal to be used in textiles[24][25]. Manyplants having medicinal properties possess remarkableantimicrobial activity too because of presence of largeamount of tannins[26]. It was reported earlier that natu-ral biopolymers [27][28][29] as well as tannin basednatural ingredients can be used as mordanting agentssatisfactorily with some of the natural dyes [30] whichmeans if a plant is rich in tannin, it will give goodfastness property itself. Chemical constituents presentin aqueous extract of bark powder of Terminalia arjunamakes it highly potential to act as natural dye havingadditional functional properties for textile substrate.Keeping in view them edicinal effects of Terminaliaarjuna, the objective of the current study is to optimizethe application of colourant extracted from Terminaliaarjuna Bark on khadi cotton fabric using responsesurface design. Further UV protection and antibacte-rial activity of dyed fabric were evaluated.

Functionalization of Antibacterial and UV ProtectionProperties in Cotton Fabric Dyed with Terminalia

Arjuna Bark Extract

Lalit Jajpura*1 & Abhilasha Rangi2

1Associate Professor, Department of Textile Technology, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, Punjab, India2 Scientist, CSTRI, Central Silk Board, Bengaluru, India

AbstractKhadi cotton fabric was dyed with Terminalia arjuna bark extract in an attempt to get additional propertieslike antibacterial and UV protection along with dyeing. Dyeing conditions play an important role in colourvalue of fabric so in this study, dyeing conditions like time, temperature and pH were optimised usingresponse surface design taking colour strength as a response. Terminalia arjuna bark extract producesreddish brown colour to dyed cotton fabric with satisfactory fastness properties. Dyed fabric also exhibitgood antibacterial activity against S. aureus and E. coli along with excellent UV protection properties.Thus,Terminalia arjuna bark extract avoid need of applying separate chemical finishing agent as itfunctionalizes cotton fabric sustainably in single dyeing step.

KeywordsAntibacterial activity, Natural dyeing, Response surface design, Terminalia arjuna, UV protection property

* All the correspondence should be addressed to,Dr. Lalit Jajpura,Associate Professor, Department of Textile Technology,National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, Punjab, India

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2. Materials and methods2.1 MaterialsReady to dye khadi cotton fabric of 22 epi and 26 ppihaving143 gsm was purchased from local market. Mildsoaping was carried out before dyeing the fabric.Terminalia arjuna bark powder was purchased fromlocal market and used as it is for extraction of colour.All other chemicals used in the study were of labora-tory grade.

2.2 Methods2.2.1 Extraction of colourExtraction of colour from bark of Terminalia arjunawas carried out using soxhlet apparatus. Extractioncan be carried out by choosing any suitable sol-vents[31][32]. Water based extraction was carried outbeing good solubility of colouring constituents ofTerminalia arjuna in aqueous solution. Known amountof Terminalia arjuna bark powder was kept in soxhletapparatus keeping MLR 1:30 at pH 8 for 30 min [33].Extract thus obtained was filtered and used as it is fordyeing.

2.2.2 DyeingBox and behnken response surface design was usedfor optimizing the dyeing conditions by taking time, tem-perature and pH of dye bath as variable factors. Thesefactors were evenly spaced and coded as low, mediumand high as indicated in Table 1. In all the dyeingcycles MLR was kept 1:30. No other chemicals wereadded to dye bath to keep the process eco-friendly. Tooptimize the variables of dyeing condition colour strength(K/S) value of the dyed fabric was considered as theresponse. Higher the value of colour strength meansmore dye is transferred to the fabric from dye bath. Asper the design of experiments, fifteen experiments werecarried out and are shown in Table 2. Design of ex-periments (DoE) software version 12 was used for the

analysis of data. To analyze the relation of responsewith variables the module applied a quadratic polyno-mial equation. Statistical significance of the modelequation and R2 value were also determined.

Figure 1: Flow chart of experimental design in thesequence of work carried out

After dyeing the samples were washed with 2 gpl non-ionic soap solution at 600C for 10 minutes and thenrinsed thoroughly with cold water and dried. Once thedyeing conditions are optimized, evaluation of dyedsamples was carried out only for the samples dyed atoptimized conditions.

Table 1: Variables used in Box and Behnken design

Variable Levels

Low Medium High

A: Temp (0C ) 50 70 90

B: pH of dye bath 4 6 8

C: Time (min) 60 90 120

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Table 2 : Box and behnken surface response design foroptimization of dyeing conditions

Run Variable 1 Variable 2 Variable 3 Response Temp (0C) pH of dye bath Time (min) K/S

1. 50 4 90 1.434

2. 50 6 60 0.913

3. 50 6 120 0.804

4. 50 8 90 0.433

5. 70 4 60 1.755

6. 70 4 120 1.96

7. 70 6 90 1.19

8. 70 6 90 1.14

9. 70 6 90 1.15

10. 70 8 60 1.019

11. 70 8 120 1.029

12. 90 4 90 1.907

13. 90 6 60 1.54

14. 90 6 120 1.216

15. 90 8 90 1.419

2.2.3 Evaluation of dyed samplesColour valueColour strength expressed as K/S was measured bythe light reflectance technique [34]. The relative colourstrength was calculated by applying the Kubelka-Munkequation as given below:

Colour strength (K/S) = (1 - R)2 /2R

Where, R is the reflectance of fabric samples at lmax;K is the absorption coefficient and; S is the scatteringcoefficient.

The colour values (L*,a*,b*) of different sample weredetermined using premier colour scan spectrophotom-eter and software interfaced.

Colour fastness propertyFastness to washing and rubbing (wet and dry) of dyedsamples was determined as per IS: 3361-1979 testmethod in a Launder-O-Meter and ISO-105-X12 testmethod using a crockmeter respectively. Fastness rat-ings for washing and rubbing of the samples wereevaluated by the computer colour matching system.On exposure to light for prolonged period the colour ofthe samples were getting darker instead of fading sorating could not be done as per the standards and onlythe change in the depth of shade is mentioned.

2.2.4 Antibacterial PropertyAATCC-100 test method was used to do quantitativeassessment of antibacterial behavior of dyed fabricsusing gram positive (S. aureus) and gram negative (E.coli) bacteria. The reduction in number of coloniesformed in test sample with respect to the control samplegives us the percentage of antibacterial activity. Fol-lowing equation was used to calculate the reduction inbacterial count;

(B - A)Reduction in bacterial count (R)% = ------------- X100

BWhere, A = the number of bacterial colonies recov-ered from the inoculated treated test specimen incu-bated for 24 hrsB = the number of bacterial colonies recovered fromthe inoculated untreated test specimen incubated for24 hrs

2.2.5 UV Protection PropertyUV Transmittance Analyser- UV2600 was used tocheck UV protection factor using AS/NZS 4399-1996standard test method. The ratio of ultraviolet radiationirradiance of unprotected skin (i.e. skin covered byundyed fabric) to ultraviolet radiation irradiance ofprotected skin (i.e. skin covered by dyed fabric) givesultra violet protection factor (UPF).

UPF = risk unprotected / risk protected

Where,risk unprotected = S SlAlSl

risk protected = SSlAlSlTl

Sl = source spectrum (Wm2 nm-1)Tl = transmittanceAl = action spectrum for measured responseSl = bandwidth in nm.The minimum wavelength range was 290nm -400nm.

3. Results and discussionDyeing experiments were performed by varying thedyeing conditions as shown in Table 2 and the resultsthus obtained are discussed below. The plot of thepredicted against actual values of colour strength isshown in Figure 2 and gives an adequate judgment ofthe model. Here the actual values of colour strengthare harmonizing with the predicted values which meanthe second order regression model attained is satisfied.The R2 achieved for the fitted model is 0.9681withP-values of variables A, B, C as 0.0424, 0.0001, < 0.0001respectively, all values are less than 0.0500 which in-dicates model terms are significant. P-values less than

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0.0500 indicate model terms are significant. In this caseA, B, C are significant model terms with R2 0.9681.

Figure 2 : Box-Behnken design plot for predicted versusactual values for colour strength values of dyed sample

3.1 Effect of dyeing conditions on K/S valueResponses attained with respect to the independentvariables are shown in the surface plot given in Figure3. It is clear from the figure that time has least role toplay while temperature and pH values are importantfactors governing the dyeing process.Time doesn't playmuch role after reaching a certain time limit as equi-librium reached between absorption and desorption ofcolouranton textile material with prolonged dyeingperiod[35].In 60 min all the colouring molecules avail-able in dye bath got transferred to fabric and after 60min up to 120 min not much increase in colour strengthvalues were observed. Increase in temperature in-creases the dyeing rate by giving more energy to thesystem for better mobility. Hence increase in colourstrength value was observed when the temperaturewas raised from 500C to 900C. Change in pH has ahuge effect on the colour strength values of samples.As the pH goes towards acidic side the K/S valueincreases and it was found maximum at 4 pH. Dyeingbehavior depends largely upon the ionic interactionbetween colour molecules and substrate which are highlyinfluenced by pH.Design of experiments gave 56 solu-tions to have desired high value of colour strength butthe most feasible and easy to maintain conditions to getthe optimized colour value on cotton fabric were whendyeing was carried out at temperature of 900C for 60min maintaining pH 4 of Terminalia arjuna bark ex-tract.

Figure 3 : Surface Plotshowing effect of dyeing condi-tions on colour strength values of cotton fabric dyed

with Terminalia arjuna bark

The following response equation has been obtained topredict the colour strength value (K/S). It shows theeffect of Time (A), Temperature (B) and pH of dyebath (C) on the response and can be used to makepredictions about the response for given value of eachvariable.

K/S = +3.07409+0.036681 X Temp -1.03969 X pH +0.000163 XTime +0.003206 X Temp*X pH-0.000090 X Temp X Time - 0.000813 X pH XTime -0.000230 X Temp² +0.057594 X pH² +0.000056 XTime²

When the optimised dyeing conditions i.e.temperature- 900C, time - 60min and pH - 4 were put in the aboveequation the calculated colour strength value comesout to be 1.95937, while the actual experimental valuewas found to be 1.962. It is clear that this equationpredicts the colour strength value correctly up to onedecimal point and can be relied upon.

3.2 Colour Value and Fastness ratingTable 3 (a) and (b) shows the colour value and fast-ness rating of dyed sample. The shade obtained withTerminalia arjuna bark on cotton is reddish brown. Botha and b value obtained are positive and are 9.592 and13.454 respectively. Obtained L value is 57.56 whichgive the fabric moderate darkness. The fastness towashing has good rating but the wet rubbing fastnessof the sample is poor. On exposure to light, the colourof dyed sample becomes darker instead of fading.Hereoxidation of natural colourants may be the reason offabric getting darker on exposure to sunlight with pass-ing of time.

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Table 3 (a) : Colour Values of sample with optimisedconditions of dyeing

Sr.No. Dyeing Conditions Colour Values

Temp pH Time K/S L a b

Un dyedcotton - - - 0.042 91.528 0.666 -2.397sample

Dyedcotton 90 4 60 1.959* 57.56 9.592 13.454sample 1.962$

*Predicted value from equation; $Actual experimental value

Table 3(b): Colour Fastness rating of dyed sample

Wash Fastness Rubbing Fastness Light

Fading Staining fastness

Cotton Wool Dry Wet

3-4 4-5 4 3-4 2 Darker

3.3 Antibacterial PropertyAntibacterial efficiency of Terminalia arjunabark ex-tract was calculated in terms of percentage reductionof bacterial colony against both gram positive andnegative bacteria. Chemical structure and the func-tional groups present play important role in impartingantibacterial activity in natural extract. Terminaliaarjunashows antibacterial properties[36], as it containsa luteolin compound which is reported to have antibac-terial activity [11]. Sample dyed with Terminalia arjunabark extract supports the literature and showed goodantibacterial activity as shown in Table 4.Finding of thestudy shows that obtained bacterial reduction by dyedcotton fabric with Terminalia arjuna bark extract for S.aureus and E. coli was 98.80% and 95.26%, respec-tively.

Table 4: Photographs of bacterial colonies in undyed anddyed fabrics

Cotton Fabric Undyed Dyed with Terminaliaarjuna

Bacteria Bark extract

S. aureus

E. coli

3.4 UV Protection Property

Figure 4: %Transmission of UV radiations from dyedand undyed cotton fabric

It is more convenient if the clothing can provide suf-ficient UV protection property themselves to weareras it avoids need of applying sunscreen lotions sepa-rately to skin covered under the apparels. Some natu-ral pigments have inherent ability to reduce or preventtransmission of harmful UV radiation [37]. These natu-ral dyes can be explored for dyeing as well as forimparting UV protection property on to the fabric.Terminalia arjuna is one such dye which has variousphenolic contents which show free radical scavengingaction [38] and has ability to protect from UV rays.UPFrating of the samples are given in Table 5. It is clearfrom Figure 4 that undyed fabric allows the transmis-sion of UV rays while dyed fabric blocks UV radia-tions significantly and % transmission is near to zero.

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Undyed cotton has no protection from UV radiationswhile cotton fabric dyed with Terminalia arjuna barkextract provides excellent protection from UV radia-tions with a UPF rating of 50+.

105, 492, (2011).5. Das P. K., Mondal A. K.&Parui S. M., African

Journal of Plant Science, 5(9), 510, (2011).6. Ghoulia M., Howell R. D.& Sholas M., J. Environ.

Sci. Health, 28, 473, (2012).

Table 5 : UPF rating of test samples

Sr no Sample details TUVA TUVB UPF UPF rating UV protection315nm-400nm 290nm-315nm 290nm-400nm category

1 Khadi Cotton 23.65 22.47 4.60 Less than 15 No protection

2 Dyed Khadi Cotton 1.46 0.94 96.67 50+ Excellent

4. ConclusionThe focus of study was to optimize the dyeing condi-tions using response surface design to khadi cottonwith Terminalia arjuna bark extract. Finding of dyeingstudies shows that temperature and pH has significanteffect on the K/S values of dyed samples. Dyed fabricwith Terminalia arjuna bark extract shows good washfastness along with darkening of shade of the sampleon exposure to light. Terminalia arjuna bark extractimparts excellent antibacterial properties in khadi cot-ton with bacterial reduction of about 98.80% and 95.26%for S. aureus and E. coli,respectively. Besides impart-ing colour and antibacterial properties, Terminalia arjunabark extract also provides excellent UV protectionproperties with more than 50 UPF rating to treatedcotton fabric. Thus Terminalia arjuna bark extract canbe used as single dyeing and finishing agent with ben-eficial antibacterial and UV protection properties.

5. AcknowledgementsThanks are due Department of Fibre and textile pro-cessing technology, ICT Mumbai for helping with theUPF testing and to Department ofTextile Technology,IIT Delhi for helping in carrying out antibacterial test-ing. Authors are grateful to UGC, Government of Indiafor providing financial support for this research work.

References1. `Mohammad M., Khosro N. &Loghman K., Jour-

nal of cleaner Production, 19, 1045,(2011).2. Moiz A., Ahmed A. M., Kausar N., Ahmed K.

&Sohail M., Journal of Saudi Chemistry, 14,69, (2010).

3. Jajpura L., Sustainable fibre production andtextile wet processing for better tomorrow AsianTextile Conference (ATC-13), Victoria, Australia,(2013).

4. Panidian S., Arumugam K., Shim E.& PourdeyhimiB., Journal of Applied and Polymer Science,

7. Tchindaa J. B. S, Pétrissansa A., Molinaa S.,Ndikontarb M. K., Mounguenguic S., DumarcS.&Gérardina P., Industrial crops and products,60, 291, (2014).

8. Jajpura L., R. & Rani N., Periodical research, 6(4), 135, (2018).

9. U., Jajpura L., Rangi A. & Rani N., Interna-tional Journal for Research in Applied Sci-ence & Engineering Technology, 5(7), 179,(2017).

10. Rangi A.&Jajpura L., Guggul gum a biopoly-mer finishing agent for textiles,InternationalConference on Textile and Clothing- Present andFuture Trends, Calcutta, India, (2017).

11. Jajpura L., Paul S.&Rangi A., Sustainable dye-ing and finishing of cotton using differentnatural dyes and chitosan, International confer-ence on Redefining Textiles; cutting edge technol-ogy of the future, Jalandhar, India, (2016).

12. Shiva M. P., Non-wood forest products in 15countries of Tropical Asia, Food and AgricultureOrganization of the United Nations, (2002).

13. Ali M, Text Book of Pharmacognosy, CBS Pub-lishers, New delhi, (1994).

14. Biswas M, Kaushik B., Tarun K., BhattacharyaS., Ghosh A.&Haldar P., Journal of Phytology,3(1), 33, (2011).

15. Dwivedi S., Journal of Ethnopharmacology,114, 114, (2007).

16. Amalraj A., &Gopi S.,Journal of Traditional andComplementary Medicine, 7(1), 65, (2017).

17. Saha A., Pawar V. M. &Jayaraman S., IndianJournal of Pharmaceutical sciences, 74(4), 339,(2012).

18. Kolodziej H. &Kiderlen A. F., Phytochemistry,66, 2056, (2005).

19. Cardamone J. M, AATCC Review, 30, (2001).20. Jajpura L., Saini M. &Rangi A., Colourage, 44,

(2016).21. Rangi A.&Jajpura L., Journal of textile science

and engineering, 5(1), 1, (2015).

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22. Kulkarni A. P. &Aradhya S., Food Chemistry,93,319, (2005).

23. Riaz M.,Rasool N., Bukhari I., Rizwan K., JavedF., Altaf A. &Qayyum H., Oxid. Commun., 36(1),272, (2002).

24. Joon M.&Jajpura L., Periodic Research, 6(2),21, (2017).

25. Jajpura L., Harad A. &Maitra S., Asian TextileJournal, 15(2), 55, (2006).

26. Hussein M., Barakat H., Merfort I.&NawwarM., Photochemistry, 45, 819, (1997).

27. Jajpura L., Paul S.&Rangi A., Asian Dyer, 14(2),57, (2017).

28. Jajpura L., Paul S.&Rangi A., Man Made tex-tiles in India, 54(5), 180, (2016).

29. Jajpura L., Paul S.&Rangi A., Asian Resonance,5(1), 99, (2016).

30. Rani N., Tanwar P., &Jajpura L., Asian reso-nance, 6(4), 31, (2017).

31. Rani N., Jajpura L. &Butola B. S., Journal ofBasic and applied Engineering Research, 4(1),44, (2017).

32. Rani N., Jajpura L. & Butola B. S.,Antimicrobialand antioxidant behavior of natural dye ex-tracted from Kalanchoepinnata,InternationalConference on Textile and Clothing- Present andFuture Trends (TCPFT-2017), Kolkata, India,(2017).

33. Rangi A. & Jajpura L., Journal of Agroecologyand natural resource management,4(1), 87,(2017).

34. Cutler A. E., Journal of the Society of Dyersand Colourists, 81(12), 601, (1965).

35. Shenai V. K., Principles of Dyeing, Sevak Pub-lications, Mumbai, India, (1992).

36. Phani G. K., Navya K., Ramya E. M.,Venkataramana M., AnandT. &Anilakumar K. R.,Free RadicAntioxid, 3, 35, (2013).

37. Sarkar A. K., BMC Dermatology, 4(15), 1,(2004).

38. Bajpai M., Pande A., Tewari S. K. & PrakashD., Int J Food SciNutr, 56, 287, (2005).

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1. IntroductionThe ideal scaffold or tissue support for its use in en-gineering of tissues should have sufficient elasticity,flexibility, mechanical strength, and physical stability tomaintain their shape. Besides these charactersistics,biocompatibility, bio-resorbability, and porosity are alsorequired for scaffolds. Hydrogels are hydrophilic 3Dsponges having polymeric network with high swellingratios in water. Due to their high moisture content andelasticity, they display ability to mimic human tissuethan other synthetic biomaterials. Hydrogels have beenextensively used in a vast range of biomedical applica-tions, mainly in drug delivery and tissue engineering.Silk fibroin (SF) is studied by the material scientists formore than two decades for its application as bio ma-terial. It has very good biocompatibility and low inflam-matory response. In order to make it easily biodegrad-able, regenerated form of SF is utilized. Various formsof this regenerated silk fibroin such as fibers, films,hydrogels, and 3D scaffolds are utilized as biomaterialsin tissue engineering field. Hydrogels among these forms

are gaining importance due to their peculiarly largesurface area for activities of cell (cell growth, prolif-eration, adhesion, and migration). These prepared silkhydrogels have been sought for application in cell cul-ture as a matrix, in drug and gene delivery systemsand also as artificial skin. However, brittleness andlack of flexibility in the structure makes it difficult forthe practical use of the silk hydrogels[1].

This limitation of silk hydrogel can be overcome byblending with various other biomaterials which havehigh elasticity such as polyethylene glycol, poly-lacticacid or poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA). PVA structures havehigher mechanical properties in terms of elasticity andstrength thus can complement silk fibroin in formationof hydrogels. PVA as a biomaterial has been exploredfor applications such as artificial joints, artificial bloodvessels and drug-releasing systems[2]. The blendedhydrogels are cross linked to improve the durabilityduring the application in the biological system. Thiscross linking can be effected by either use of chemi-cals, physical methods or by using irradiation. Irradia-tion techniques are not cost effective. The use of dif-ferent chemical cross linkers give efficient cross link-ing in hydrogels however, is detrimental for the cellactivities and have toxic residues which affect the bio-activity [3]. Many chemical cross-linkers are used for

Preparation of Silk Fibroin / PVA Hydrogels UsingChemicalfree Cross-Linking forTissue Engineering Applications

Pallavi Vishwas Madiwale, Girendra Pal Singh, Santosh Biranje & R.V. Adivarekar*Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology

AbstractTissue scaffolds mandate the application of inter-disciplinary approach for successful preparation. Thecontribution of textiles to this multi-disciplinary field is through many facets. This paper discusses thepreparation of 3D porous hydrogels using fibroin extracted from silk fibres. To increase the flexibility andto have differential degradability, fibroin is blended with different concentrations of PVA (2, 5, 10%) toexplore its tissue engineering potential. The 3D sponges were prepared using freeze drying techniquewithout using any external cross-linking agents. All the prepared sponges were evaluated using SEM, FTIR,XRD, TGA, swelling ability and mechanical properties. The results demonstrated that the prepared hydrogelshave the desired characteristics for the possible application in engineering tissue in the human body. Thedegradation studies of these prepared sponges showed that the variation in concentration of PVA effectedin the variation in the degradation time, thus providing a parameter for selection of the sponges as per therequirement of retention in the tissue regeneration.

KeywordsTissn scaffolds, 3D sponges, treeze drying freeeze - thawing gradation

* All the correspondence should be addressed to,Prof R. V. Adivarekar, Ph.D.(Tech.), FTA (Honorary)Professor in Fibre Chemistry & Head,Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology,Institute of Chemical Technology, N. P. Marg, Matunga,Mumbai 400019.

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improving the cross linking of molecules in the hydrogels.PVA-based hydrogels are developed via different cross-linking processes such as physical, chemical, and irra-diation cross-linking. Physically cross-linked hydrogels(freeze-thawing hydrogels without toxic residues) offerimproved mechanical properties compared to hydrogelsmade by chemical (have toxic residues) and irradiative(expensive) cross linking techniques. Owing to itsbiocompatibility, ease of processing, and suitable me-chanical strength, freeze-thawing PVA hydrogels havebeen extensively used in many tissue engineering ap-plications[4]. The difference in freeze thawing andfreeze drying process is that freeze thawing is yet toappear on industrial scale whereas the freeze drying isalready an industrially established process[5].

The presented work describes the application of SFextracted from silk fibre in the form of hydrogel. SF isblended with PVA and processed using freeze dryingtechnique to form hydrogels. The prepared hydrogelswere evaluated for its suitability and application in thefield of tissue engineering and regenerative medicine.

2. Materials2.1 Preparation of SF solutionThe silk fibres were treated in 0.5% Na

2CO

3 solution

owf at 950C with three repetitive cycles (30 min each)to remove sericin. Then the fibers (silk fibroin) wererinsed and dried at room temperature. The resultingpure fibroin fibers were dissolved in 9.3 M LiBr solu-tion at 650C for 4 hours. The solution was filtered andthen dialyzed against water for three days. Concentra-tion of solution obtained was adjusted to 5 %.

2.2 Dissolution of PVAPolyvinyl alcohol LR (MW. 125,000) was purchasedfrom S D Fine Chemicals Ltd., Mumbai. It was dis-solved in deionized water by heating in a water bath at950C for 2 hours. Three different concentrations of theaqueous PVA solution were prepared; 10 %, 5 % and2 % (w/w).

2.3 Preparation of porous PVA/SF blend hydrogelsSF solution (5 %) and PVA (2, 5 and 10 %) wereblended at blending ratios as SF: PVA :: 100:0, 80:20,60:60, 40:60, 20:80. The blends were mixed and imme-diately poured into glass petri plates. These petri plateswere then sealed with an aluminum foil and frozen at-200C for 24 hours, followed by lyophilization (Labconco,Missouri, USA) at -600C and 0.01 mbar, for 18 hours.The lyophilized porous hydrogels were then stored indesiccator until further use.

The hydrogels were named as below;

Table 1: Ratio of SF (5 %): PVA in prepared hydrogels

5 % SF::2 % PVA 5 % SF::5 % PVA 5 % SF::10 % PVA

80/20/2 80/20/5 80/20/10

60/40/2 60/40/5 60/40/10

40/60/2 40/60/5 40/60/10

20/80/2 20/80/5 20/80/10

2.4 Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopyFourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (SHIMADZUFTIR-8400S) was used to understand the interactionof SF and PVA during the blending and freeze dryingof the hydrogels. The absorbance of the samples wasrecorded between 4000 - 500 cm-1 region, 32 scans ineach case at a resolution of 4 cm-1.Background mea-surements were taken twice with an empty cell andsubtracted from the sample readings.

2.5 X-Ray Diffraction (XRD)Shimadzu 6100 model of X-ray diffractometer equippedwith Cu Ka radiation (l = 1.54 Å) was used to evalu-ate the XRD analysis of the samples. The 2q angleranged from 5 to 350. The generator voltage was keptat 40 kV and generator current was 30 mA, in step of0.020. Variation of crystallinity due to variation of theratio of the SF and PVA in the hydrogels was observedfrom the diffraction graphs of the blended hydrogels.

2.6 Thermo gravimetric analysisThermo gravimetric analysis (TGA) was used to evalu-ate thermal decomposition behavior of all samples.Thermo gravimetric measurements were made usingTG/DTA Simultaneous Measuring Instrument (DTG-60H SHIMADZU). The study was conducted over atemperature range of 30-5000C at a heating rate of100C/min under a nitrogen atmosphere. The mass ofthe sample pan was continuously recorded as a func-tion of temperature. TGA analysis gave a detailedrelation of variation of the ratio of SF and PVA.

2.7 Swelling propertiesThe hydrogels were tested for their swelling behaviorusing DI water. Their weight in a dry state was mea-sured using an electronic balance. Their weight in aswollen state was measured after incubation for 2 h, 4h, 6 h, 9 h, 12 h, and 24 h in distilled water. This testwas repeated three times under the same conditions.Specific water content (%) was calculated as an indexfor swelling of the gel according to the following equa-tion.

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Specific water content: = [Ww-Wd)/Wd] ✕100Wd: Dry weight of the hydrogel.Ww: Wet weight of hydrogel after swelling.

2.8 Mechanical propertiesTensile strength of samples was determined accordingto the ASTM D 5035(1995) standard (test method forbreaking strength and elongation of Textile Fabrics)using Tinius Olsen H5KS universal tensile machine(UTM). Breaking force is the maximum force appliedto a material to rupture and the corresponding elonga-tion is the ratio of the extension of a material length tothe length prior to stretching, expressed as a percent-age. The test was performed with a 5 kN load cell atroom temperature with crosshead speed 10 mm/min.Three specimens were tested for each of the SF/PVAblends.

2.9 In-vitro degradationThe degradation of the hydrogels was evaluated atthree different environmental conditions; Hydrogelswere immersed in three different solutions to study in-vitro degradation - PBS, SBF and protease XIV (assupplied by the M/s. Rossari Biotech Ltd.). The en-zyme of 2 mg/mL concentration was prepared in PBScontrol. The standard SBF solution was prepared ac-cording to Kokubo's protocol [6] by dissolving speci-fied amount of the relevant reagent grade chemicals indistilled water. The inorganic ions concentrations in thisstandard SBF (Na+ 142.0, K+ 5.0,Mg2+ 1.5, Ca2+2.5, Cl1- 147.8,HCO3 1- 4.2, HPO4 2 - 1.0, and SO42- 0.5mM) were closely equal to those in human bloodplasma.

A sample size of 25mm2 was utilized for the study. Theenvironment temperature of 370C similar to the humanbiology was maintained in the autoclave throughout thein-vitro degradation process. After the specific time,the samples were removed from the solutions andweighed for recording the degradation. The enzymeand SBF solutions were replaced with newly preparedsolution every 24 h and 72 hours.

3. Results and discussion3.1 Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy

Figure 1.a (5% SF, 2 % PVA)

Figure 1.b (5% SF, 5 % PVA)

Figure 1.c (5% SF, 10 % PVA)

Figure 1: FTIR absorbance spectra of SF/PVA freezedried hydrogels

In the hydrogels having the concentration of PVA 2 %(figure 1.a) , the peaks of SF depict the increasing

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intensity of random coils represented at 1655 cm-1 asthe ratio of the SF/PVA hydrogels decrease. The b

sheet peak at 1520 and 1625 cm-1 show decreasingintensity as the ratio decrease. A shift towards randomcoil region is observed in the amide II region as theconcentration of PVA increase. The peaks of PVA inthe FTIR increase gradually at the intensity around1432 cm-1 (CH-OH Bending) and 1246 cm-1(C=Ostretching). In the SF/PVA blends having 5 % PVA theSF peaks show decreased intensity for both the ran-dom coil and b sheet region. As the concentration ofPVA increases in the blend, the peaks at 1540, 1655cm-1 (Random Coil), 1530, 1625 cm-1 (b sheet) showlower intensity peaks. (Ref) The hydroxyl region showsignificant increase in the spectra as concentration ofPVA increase in the blend. CH-OH peaks (1432 cm-1) are less intense while the CO stretching show in-creasing intensity and broad peak at 1246 cm-1 as theconcentration of PVA increase. The SF/PVA hydrogelshaving 10 % concentration of PVA show significantpeaks representing PVA. The intensity of the SF peaksshow decreasing trend in the amide I region while thepeaks in the amide I region disappear as the ratio ofSF/PVA blend decrease. The hydroxyl region showsignificant increase as PVA concentration increase.Overall the FTIR spectra display the concurrence ofsilk I crystalline structure and random coil conforma-tion. The curves are characterized by the presence ofabsorption bands typical of both components. It canalso be stated that the width of the region representingthe hydroxyl groups (3500-3200 cm-1) is stretched byblending PVA and SF, thus increasing the intensity ofhydrogen bonding. FTIR spectral results implied SFmolecules had interactions with PVA[7].

3.2 X-Ray Diffraction (XRD)

Figure 2.a (5 % SF & 2 % PVA)

Figure 2.b (5 % SF & 5 % PVA)

Figure2.c (5 % SF & 10 % PVA)

Figure 2: X-Ray diffraction spectra of SF/PVA freezedried hydrogels.

The prominent peaks for both PVA & SF are in theregion of 2theta 200. Thus super imposition of the in-tensity of the crystalline PVA along with SF around 200

gives highest intensity of peak for the blend, 60/40/2because of the contribution. Peaks with lesser intensityare observed around 120 representing PVA. The inten-sity of amorphous Silk I peaks around 20-250 is re-duced as the concentration of PVA increase in thehydrogel. For sample having 5% PVA, amorphous peakof the SF is seen to be dominant as the peak of the X-ray diffraction shifts towards 190. Overall crystallinityis contributed by PVA since the blend containing high-est concentration of PVA show highest intensity[8,9].

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3.3 Thermo gravimetric analysis

Figure 3.a: (5 % SF & 2 % PVA)s

Figure 3: Differential thermal analysis of SF/PVAhydrogels prepared by freeze drying.

The DTG curves obtained for freeze dried SF/PVAhydrogels are related to two mass losses. The first oneoccurring from the dehydration and removal of residualwater from the samples and later on as the tempera-ture increase, the mass loss occurs due to the break-

down of side chain groups of amino acid residues, aswell as the cleavage of peptide bonds[10]. As seen infigure 3, major mass losses during the study states thatthe two components of the hydrogel degrade at therespective degradation peaks. Hydrogels having highercontent of silk fibroin show degradation peaks around2900C due to the melting and decomposition of SFchains[11]. The PVA degrades at higher temperatureand hence as the PVA content of the hydrogel in-creases the degradation peaks shift towards highertemperature range[12]. The major mass loss for all thesamples occurred in the range of 290-3200C. Howeverspecific peak related to the different ratios of thehydrogels cannot be clarified.

3.4 Swelling propertiesThe prepared hydrogels were studied for the wateruptake and swelling behavior using DI water. The effectof variation of concentration of PVA in the preparedsamples is evident from the recorded values of wateruptake of all the samples. All the samples have optimalwater uptake confirming suitability for application intissue regeneration. Swelling in all the hydrogels irre-spective of the concentration of SF and PVA can beseen to attain equilibrium within 24 hours of study. Thesamples were prepared using 2% concentration of PVAshow higher water uptake than 5% or 10% PVAsamples. Thus increasing the concentration of PVAdecreases the water uptake of the hydrogels. PVAincrease the overall cross linking density in the samplesthus reducing the water uptake[13][7].

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Figure 4: Water uptake profiles of SF/PVA hydrogels; a.5 % SF & 2 % PVA; b. 5 % SF 5 % PVA; c. 5 %

SF & 10 % PVA

3.5 Mechanical properties

As the concentrations of PVA in the prepared hydrogelsincrease, there is increase in the tensile strength andelongation. There is increase in polymer crystallites asthe PVA increases. The hydrogen bonding in the PVAis higher and thus results in physical cross-linking. Thesefactors play an important role in the increase in theoverall strength of the hydrogels as the concentrationof PVA increase[14].

3.6 PorosityTable 3 depicts the porosity measured by liquid dis-placement method of the SF/PVA hydrogels. All theprepared hydrogels have optimum porosity as per therequirement of any tissue engineering scaffold. All theprepared hydrogels have more than 70 % porosity asrecorded. This is acceptable range of porosity for cellinfiltration and proliferation[15]. As the PVA content ofthe prepared hydrogels increase there is overall in-crease in porosity. As the content of PVA increases,the hydrogen bonding increases. Thus the larger poresare deformed and formed in smaller pores thus in-creasing the density of pores which can be substanti-ated by the SEM results below. Due to increased poredensity, the overall porosity of the hydrogels is increasedas the PVA content increase. [15][16].

Table 2: Tensile strength and % Elongation of SF/PVA hydrogels

5 %RSF/ Tensile % Elongation 5 %RSF/ Tensile % Elongation 5 %RSF/ Tensile % Elongation2 % PVA Strength 5 % PVA Strength 10 % PVA Strength

80.20.2 7.85 4.94 80.20.5 8.25 10.04 80.20.10 8.75 16.82

60.40.2 8.12 10.39 60.40.5 9.41 11.4 60.40.10 9.27 19.69

40.60.2 8.55 13.5 40.60.5 10.194 15.36 40.60.10 10.43 24.81

20.80.2 8.82 17.7 20.80.5 11.41 25.44 20.80.10 11.75 31.25

Table 3: Porosity of SF/PVA hydrogels

5 %RSF/2 % PVA Porosity 5 %RSF/5 % PVA Porosity 5 %RSF/10 % PVA Porosity

80/20/2 73 80/20/5 75 80/20/10 71

60/40/2 75 60/40/5 88 60/40/10 89

40/60/2 89 40/60/5 89 40/60/10 95

20/80/2 89 20/80/5 91 20/80/10 96

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3.7 Scanning Electron Microscopy

Figure 5: SEM of freeze dried SF/PVA/2 (40/60/2) atmagnification 1200X

The average pore size among the samples was in therange of 20-50 µm. There was uniformity observed inthe distribution of pores throughout the hydrogels. Thedensity of the pores is directly related to the concen-tration and composition of the ingredients with respectto water as the freeze drying process involves themovement of water among the polymer matrix. As theconcentration and the total dissolved solids in the waterincrease, the movement of the water during freezedrying process is obstructed. As the concentration ofPVA increased in the hydrogels, the viscosity of thesolution increased. Thus during the freeze drying pro-cess the trapped water in the hydrogels forms smallcrystal nuclei rather than large ice particles. Thus asthe concentration of PVA increase the samples willshow less pore size and higher pore density[17].

3.8 In-vitro degradationThe role of any cross-linking agent whether physical orchemical, is to increase the holding duration of the

scaffold in the required shape and size as per therequirement of the tissue under repair. The study ofthis duration is performed in-vitro using different deg-radation mediums which correspond to the in-vivo en-vironment thus giving a brief idea of the behavior ofthe scaffold when implanted in the destined tissue. Theprepared hydrogels were explored for degradation inPBS, SBF and enzymatic environment and the weightloss was recorded. The study was conducted for 7weeks. The recorded weight loss of the hydrogels isrepresented in the graphical form in the figure 6. Sincethere was no chemical cross-linking agent used inpreparation of hydrogels, most of the samples weredegraded up to 100 % over 7 weeks period. However,out of the 12 different compositions of the hydrogelsprepared, 2 of the samples gave immediate disintegra-tion of the structure within a week's time. All the restof the hydrogels displayed gradual degradation in theform of weight loss thus showing a stable structuraldegradation and thus can give enough time framemaintaining structural integrity for their application inthe regeneration of the tissue[18].

Hydrogels having higher concentration of PVA weredegrading slowly than the samples having higher con-centration of SF. SF enhances the oxygen and solventpenetration which induced higher degradation rate[19].Though PVA chains physically interact with SF throughweak molecular forcesi.e.hydrogen bonding when thesamples are exposed to the degradation mediums; dueto the hydration between PVA and H2O, the PVAchains with weak molecular forces in the networkovercomes the intermolecular interaction and thusgradual separation is initiated from the hydrogel samples.Thus PVA component in the hydrogel gets degradedover time and facilitate more fluid diffusion[20]. Thisprocess lasts for a period over 7 weeks which can behelpful for a slow and controlled release of the anydrug loading studies[21].

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4.ConclusionsThe study generates and summarizes a cumulative da-tabase using two established biomaterials PVA and silkfibroin. The freeze-drying technique is used for prepa-ration of SF/PVA hydrogels without the use of anyadditional cross-linking agent. The prepared hydrogelswere tested and demonstrated that hydrogels preparedwith different ratios of SF/PVA have the essentialcharacteristics for tissue engineering in terms of finestructure, morphology, uniform distribution of pores andstructural stability during the in-vitro degradation. Thecharacterization of hydrogels using FTIR, TGA andXRD demonstrated the interactions between the twobiomaterials used. The inferences lead to the conclu-sion that as the concentration of PVA is increased inthe hydrogels, pore density and crystallinity is increasedand thus increasing the mechanical strength and di-mensional stability. Absence of chemical cross-linkingagent did not negatively affect the properties of theprepared hydrogels. Results of the study can be di-

rectly implemented for the use in medical field thususing an industrially feasible technology and well es-tablished biomaterials. Thus, the research can open upnew avenues for the preparation of scaffolds withoutchemical cross-linkers eliminating the possibility of lossin cell activity during tissue regeneration.

References1. A.R. Madiwale P., Shukla R., Silk based scaf-

folds, J. Text. Assoc. 175 (2015) 437-440.2. S.S. Biranje, P.V. Madiwale, K.C. Patankar, R.

Chhabra, P. Dandekar-Jain, R.V. Adivarekar, He-mostasis and anti-necrotic activity of wound-heal-ing dressing containing chitosan nanoparticles, Int.J. Biol. Macromol. 121 (2019). doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.10.125.

3. S. Mohammadzadehmoghadam, Y. Dong, Fabri-cation and characterization of electrospun silk fi-broin/gelatin scaffolds crosslinked with glutaralde-hyde vapor, Front. Mater. 6 (2019) 1-12.

Figure 6: Degradation profile of SF/PVA hydrogels prepared studiedin PBS (a, b, c), SBF (d, e, f) and enzyme (g, h, i)

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doi:10.3389/fmats.2019.00091.4. A. Kumar, S.S. Han, PVA-based hydrogels for

tissue engineering: A review, Int. J. Polym. Mater.Polym. Biomater. 66 (2017) 159-182. doi:10.1080/00914037.2016.1190930.

5. P. V. Date, A. Samad, P. V. Devarajan, Freezethaw: A simple approach for prediction of optimalcryoprotectant for freeze drying, AAPSPharmSciTech. 11 (2010) 304-313. doi:10.1208/s12249-010-9382-3.

6. T. Kokubo, H. Takadama, How useful is SBF inpredicting in vivo bone bioactivity?, Biomaterials.27 (2006) 2907-2915. doi:10.1016/j.biomaterials.2006.01.017.

7. C. Niu, X. Li, Y. Wang, X. Liu, J. Shi, X. Wang,Design and performance of a poly(vinyl alcohol)/silk fibroin enzymatically crosslinked semi-inter-penetrating hydrogel for a potential hydrophobicdrug delivery, RSC Adv. 9 (2019) 41074-41082.doi:10.1039/c9ra09344c.

8. B.N. Singh, K. Pramanik, Development of novelsilk fibroin/polyvinyl alcohol/sol-gel bioactive glasscomposite matrix by modified layer by layerelectrospinning method for bone tissue constructgeneration, Biofabrication. 9 (2017). doi:10.1088/1758-5090/aa644f.

9. J.E. Puskas, P. Antony, Y. Kwon, C. Paulo, M.Kovar, P.R. Norton, G. Kaszas, V. Altstädt, Mac-romolecular engineering via carbocationic polymer-ization: Branched structures, block copolymers andnanostructures, Macromol. Mater. Eng. 286 (2001)565-582. doi:10.1002/1439-2054(20011001)286:10<565::AID-MAME565>3.0.CO;2-E.

10. G.M. Nogueira, R.F. Weska, W.C. Vieira, B.Polakiewicz, A.C.D. Rodas, O.Z. Higa, M.M.Beppu, A new method to prepare porous silk fi-broin membranes suitable for tissue scaffoldingapplications, J. Appl. Polym. Sci. (2009).doi:10.1002/app.30627.

11. R.F. Weska, W.C. Vieira, G.M. Nogueira, M.M.Beppu, Effect of freezing methods on the proper-ties of lyophilized porous silk fibroin membranes,Mater. Res. 12 (2009) 233-237. doi:10.1590/S1516-

14392009000200020.12. S. Yaowalak, S. Wilaiwan, S. Prasong, Prepara-

tion and characterization of Eri (Philosamia ricini)Silk Fibroin powder, J. Appl. Sci. (2009).doi:10.3923/jas.2009.2992.2995.

13. S. Gupta, T.J. Webster, A. Sinha, Evolution ofPVA gels prepared without crosslinking agents asa cell adhesive surface, J. Mater. Sci. Mater. Med.22 (2011) 1763-1772. doi:10.1007/s10856-011-4343-2.

14. M. Li, N. Minoura, L. Dai, L. Zhang, Preparationof Porous Poly ( vinyl alcohol ) -Silk Fibroin (PVA / SF ) Blend Membranes, (2001) 529-534.

15. Q.L. Loh, C. Choong, Three-dimensional scaf-folds for tissue engineering applications: Role ofporosity and pore size, Tissue Eng. - Part B Rev.19 (2013) 485-502. doi:10.1089/ten.teb.2012.0437.

16. F. Dehghani, N. Annabi, Engineering porous scaf-folds using gas-based techniques, Curr. Opin.Biotechnol. 22 (2011) 661-666. doi:10.1016/j.copbio.2011.04.005.

17. M. Li, N. Minoura, L. Dai, L. Zhang, Preparationof porous poly(vinyl alcohol)-silk fibroin (PVA/SF) blend membranes, Macromol. Mater. Eng.286 (2001) 529-534. doi:10.1002/1439-2 0 5 4 ( 2 0 0 1 0 9 0 1 ) 2 8 6 : 9 < 5 2 9 : : A I D -MAME529>3.0.CO;2-S.

18. S. Zeng, L. Liu, Y. Shi, J. Qiu, W. Fang, M. Rong,Z. Guo, W. Gao, Characterization of silk fibroin/chitosan 3D porous scaffold and in vitro cytology,PLoS One. 10 (2015) 1-23. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0128658.

19. T. Kobori, S. Iwamoto, K. Takeyasu, T. Ohtani,Biopolymers Volume 85 / Number 4 295, Biopoly-mers. 85 (2007) 392-406. doi:10.1002/bip.

20. M. Ye, P. Mohanty, G. Ghosh, Morphology andproperties of poly vinyl alcohol (PVA) scaffolds:Impact of process variables, Mater. Sci. Eng. C.42 (2014) 289-294. doi:10.1016/j.msec.2014.05.029.

21. S. Materials, ce d M us pt, (2019) 0-22.

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PEER REVIEWED

1. IntroductionIn today's era of modernization, almost all the textilesectors are witnessing innovations and its positive ef-fects all around. Functional textiles are one of suchfields which are presently rising above rapidly. Protec-tive textiles are also result of such smart technologicaladvancements. Textiles in fabric form offer potentialadvantages as compared to traditional sheet materialslike high surface area, mechanical properties, flexibility,etc. that can make them attractive substrates onto whichother functional materials can be deposited.

Graphene has emerged as a revolutionary material inthe field of material science and physics due to itsextraordinary properties. It is known to be a wondermaterial owing to its unprecedented advanced proper-ties in various sectors like electrical, mechanical, ther-mal, optical, etc. since its discovery [1, 2]. The appli-

cations of such material can be made in UV protec-tion, conductive fabrics, antistatic fabrics, hydrophobic-ity, sensors, heat generation, thermal conduction, pho-tocatalysis, electrolytic activity, antimicrobial, solar cells,field emission devices, energy storage, etc. One of thewidely acceptable methods of synthesis of graphene isthe Chemical Exfoliation method. It involves the syn-thesis of an intermediate oxide form of graphite popu-larly known as graphene oxide (GO) by an oxidationprocess followed by the reduction of GO into graphene(G) [3]. The method is popularly known as ModifiedHummer's method [4].

The limitation of reduction process of GO is the hightoxicity of reducing agents like dimethyl hydrazine,hydrazine hydrate, sodium borohydride, hydroquinones,etc. Traces of these toxic reducing agents could havedetrimental effect to humans as well as environment.Considering such troubleshooting, we have developeda greener route for the reduction of GO in order toovercome alongmentioned problem. In the present re-search work, graphene oxide (GO) is coated on thecotton fabric and the as prepared GO treated fabric issubjected to a natural reducing agent for the prepara-tion of graphene-based cotton (G-cotton) by an ex-haust process. In this work, a greener sustainable pro-

Graphene-based Cotton Fabric forMulti-functional Finishing

Saptarshi Maiti & Ravindra V. Adivarekar*Department of Fibres & Textile Processing Technology,

Institute of Chemical Technology

AbstractThe development of functionalized cellulosic textiles like cotton, with a prior focus to an eco-friendlyapproach is currently the most recent topic in the field of textile processing. In the present research worka highly facile and eco-friendly green process for multi-functional finishing of cotton has been adopted bythe reduction of graphene oxide (GO) treated cotton fabric. The characterizations of prepared graphene-based cotton fabric include Fourier-Transform Infra-red Spectroscopy (FTIR), X-ray Diffraction (XRD),Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA), and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). Removal of oxygen-contain-ing moieties from the GO was confirmed by FTIR spectra. The X-ray diffractogram confirms the formationof graphene-based cotton (G-cotton). The Scanning Electron Micrographs depict the effective reduction ofGO onto a cotton fabric. All characterization tools clearly reveal that the G-cotton has been successfullyprepared. Flame retardant properties of the untreated and the treated cotton fabrics are analysed by LimitingOxygen Index (LOI). The study shows that the graphene-based fabric has a good flame resistance propertycompared to that of the untreated and GO treated fabric. Very good antimicrobial activity against Escheri-chia coli and Staphy lococcus aureus is also observed along with an excellent ultra-violet protection.

KeywordsCotton, Graphene oxide, Graphene-based cotton, Flame retardancy, Antimicrobial, Ultra-violet protection.

* All the correspondence should be addressed to,Prof R. V. Adivarekar, Ph.D.(Tech.), FTA (Honorary)Professor in Fibre Chemistry & Head,Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology,Institute of Chemical Technology, N. P. Marg, Matunga,Mumbai 400019.E-mail: [email protected]. No. : +91-22-33612801

FINISHING


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tocol is employed to reduce GO onto the textile sub-strate itself which particularly prevents aggregation ofgraphene layers after forming. The prepared G-cottonhas shown good multi-functional properties.

2. Materials and methods2.1. MaterialsNatural Graphite flakes were obtained from S D Fine-Chem Ltd., Mumbai, India. Potassium permanganate(KMnO

4), Conc. Sulphuric acid (H

2SO

4) (95-98%),

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O

2) (50%), Sodium nitrate

(NaNO3) (98%), Conc. Hydrochloric acid (HCl) and

all other organic solvents were received from Merck.Ready for dyeing (RFD) cotton fabric of 220 g/m2 wassupplied by TATA Mills, Mumbai, India. Natural reduc-ing agent: Garcinia indica concentrate was procuredfrom the local market of Dadar, Mumbai, India. Forantimicrobial testing, Gram-positive bacteria Staphylo-coccus aureus (S. aureus) and Gram-negative bacte-ria Escherichia coli (E. coli) were procured fromKEM Hospital, Parel, Mumbai, India.

2.2. Methods2.2.1. Synthesis of Graphene oxide (GO)Initially, the graphene oxide (GO) was prepared fromgraphite through modified Hummer's method [5]. Conc.H

2SO

4 (69 mL) was added to a mixture of graphite

flakes (3 g, 1 wt equiv.) and NaNO3 (1.5 g, 0.5 wt

equiv.) and then cooled to 00C with constant stirring.KMnO

4 (9 g, 3 wt equiv.) was added slowly in small

fractions. The reaction was further stirred at 350C for30 min and then, water (150 mL) was poured into thereaction mixture, and at this time, an exotherm wasobserved which increased the reaction temperature upto 980C. The reaction mixture was further heated for15 min in an oil bath to maintain the same temperatureand then cooled for 10 min. Excess water (350 mL)and H

2O

2 (3 mL) were added and stirred for another

15 min. The final yellow-brownish precipitate was fil-tered, washed several times with distilled water andfinally vacuum dried to obtain GO.

2.2.2. Preparation of Graphene oxide coated cot-ton fabric (GO-cotton)The RFD cotton fabric was soaped with a non-ionicdetergent at 800C for 30 mins and kept overnight fordrying. A 10% aqueous solution of GO in distilled waterwas pre-sonicated for half an hour. The as preparedGO solution was further considered for carrying outthe treatment on cotton fabric. The cotton fabric wasboth side coated with the GO followed by its drying at800C for 5 mins and curing at 1200C for 3 mins in a

hot air stenter.

2.2.3. Reduction of Graphene oxide coated cottonfabric (G-cotton)Various concentrations of the natural reducing agentwere prepared at levels of 2%, 4%, 6%, 8%, 10%.The GO coated cotton fabrics were treated with the asprepared aqueous solutions of the reducing agent at800C for 2 hrs considering material to liquor ratio (MLR)of 1:30. The treated fabrics were further subjected towashing, air drying and kept for conditioning for fur-ther testing and characterizations.

2.2.4. Fourier Transform Infra-red Spectroscopy(FTIR)The FTIR spectra of the untreated and treated speci-mens were recorded using pike miracle ATR modulewith diamond/ZnSe crystal on FTIR spectrometer(Shimadzu 8400S, Japan) by recording 45 scans in %Transmittance mode in the range of 400-4000 cm-1.

2.2.5. X-ray Diffraction Analysis (XRD)XRD analysis of the untreated, GO-cotton, G-cottonspecimens were carried out on Shimadzu 6100 modelequipped with CuKa radiation (l=1.54 Å) in the 2q

angle ranging from 5 to 500. Generator voltage waskept at 40 kV, and the generator current was 30 mA,in a step of 0.020.

2.2.6. Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA)The untreated and the treated cotton fabrics were cutinto small pieces, and TGA was carried out. The ther-mograms were recorded on Shimadzu 60H DTG appa-ratus in the temperature range of 30-6000C with aheating rate of 100C/min under an atmosphere of nitro-gen at a flow rate of 50 ml/min.

2.2.7. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)The surface morphology of the untreated and treatedspecimens was analyzed using Field Emission Gun-Scanning Electron Microscope ((FEG-SEM, TESCAN).Specimen size of 5 × 5 mm2 was taken and the con-ductive agent used was platinum, sputter coated for600 sec duration. The beam voltage of 10 kV, 1000Xmagnification and 6 mm working distance for examin-ing the specimen were maintained throughout the run.

2.2.8. Flammability AssessmentStandard methods were used for evaluation of theburning behavior of both untreated and treated speci-mens. For the determination of flammability by Limit-ing Oxygen Index (LOI) analysis, IS 13501:1992 for

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textiles test procedure was adopted. As per standard,flame contact time was kept as the 30 s; specimen sizewas 6 × 4 cm2; oxygen and nitrogen flow meter incm3/min was set as per LOI value with a 38 mmlength of the flame. The results are expressed as:

2.2.9. Ultra-violet Protection Factor (UPF)The UPF values of the untreated, GO-cotton and G-cotton fabrics were measured using a Shimadzu UV-2600 spectrophotometer in the range of 280 to 400 nm.The UPF value of each fabric was determined fromthe total spectral transmittance based on AS/NZS4399:1996 method.

2.2.10. Antimicrobial ActivityThe antimicrobial activity of the untreated and treatedcotton fabrics was quantitatively evaluated against E.coli (ATCC 25922) and S. aureus (ATCC 25923),according to the AATCC 100 test method. Colonies ofbacteria recovered on the agar plate were counted,and the reduction of bacteria (R), % was calculated bythe following equation:

where, A is the number of bacterial colonies fromtreated specimen after inoculation of 24 h contactperiod and B is the number of bacterial colonies fromuntreated specimen after inoculation (at "0" contacttime).

3. Results and discussion3.1. Fourier Transform Infra-red Spectroscopy(FTIR)FTIR spectra of the untreated cotton, GO-cotton andG-cotton are illustrated in Figure 1. The reduction ofthe oxygen-containing groups in GO was confirmed byFTIR spectroscopy. The FTIR spectra of GO-cotton inFigure 1 (b) showed a strong transmission band around1632 cm-1 due to the C=O stretching. The spectrum ofGO also exhibited the presence of O-H at 3448 cm-1

and 1398 cm-1, C=C at 1632 cm-1, and C-O at 1095cm-1. As shown in Figure 2 (c), the characteristic trans-mission bands of oxygen containing moieties in O-H,C=O, and C-O decreased dramatically, indicating thereduction GO-cotton to G-cotton [6].

Figure 1: FTIR spectra of (a) untreated cotton,(b) GO-cotton, and (c) G-cotton

3.2. X-ray Diffraction Analysis (XRD)X-ray diffractograms of the untreated cotton, GO-cot-ton and G-cotton are illustrated in Figure 2. Thegraphene oxide coated cotton exhibited a sharp peakat a lower 2q value (10.16°) which is the character-istic peak of GO [7]. After reduction of the GO-cotton,the aforementioned peak completely disappeared. TheG-cotton didn't show any peak around 100 thereby in-ferring a complete exfoliation of graphene oxide layersduring the reduction process. In the XRD pattern ofthe G-cotton, this peak disappeared, and the peak around22-230 got intensified which indicates the reduction ofthe GO and the formation of graphene onto the cottonsubstrate.

Figure 2: X-ray diffractograms of (a) untreated cotton,(b) GO-cotton, and (c) G-cotton

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3.3. Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA)From the Thermogravimetric behaviors of the untreatedcotton, GO-cotton and G-cotton fabric as illustrated inTable 1 and in Figure 3, it could be found that G-cottonshowed 79.735% of mass loss whereas the untreatedcotton and GO-cotton showed 91.286% and 90.286%respectively, after 600ºC. Though the degradation pointlaid somewhere earlier than the untreated and thegraphene oxide coated cotton, the residual mass of thegraphene based cotton was more thereby indicatingbetter thermal stability.

deposition of the coated layer has been observed whichgot almost disappeared after the reduction of thegraphene oxide coat on cotton as shown in Figures 4(b) and (c) respectively.

Figure 4: Scanning Electron Micrographs of (a) un-treated cotton, (b) GO-cotton, and (c) G-cotton

Table 1: TGA parameters of untreated cotton, GO-cotton, and G-cotton

Parameters Cotton (a) GO-cotton (b) G-cotton (c)

Start (°C) 28.32 28.94 29.09

End (°C) 600 600 600

Mid Point (°C) 355.40 363.19 331.13

Onset (°C) 355.06 380.68 462.40

Endset (°C) 381.63 385.27 359.97

Mass loss (%) -91.286 -90.286 -79.735

Figure 3: TGA curves of (a) untreated cotton, (b) GO-cotton, and (c) G-cotton

3.4. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)Scanning Electron Micrographs of the untreated cottonfabric depicts clear and smooth fibre as shown in Fig-ure 4 (a). In case of graphene oxide coated cotton,

3.5. Flammability AssessmentBeing cellulosic in nature, untreated cotton fabricshowed Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI) value of 18,reflecting easy flammability of the substrate. Anymaterial showing LOI value equal or more than 26could be considered to be as a fire retardant. The LOIvalues of the untreated, GO and G-cotton fabrics atvarious levels of concentrations of natural reducingagent are illustrated in Table 2. After the application ofgraphene oxide onto the cotton substrate, the LOI valuewas found to increase significantly. When the fabricwas coated with GO, the LOI value was found toincrease to 28 which is almost 55.5% higher than thatobtained for the untreated fabric. When the grapheneoxide coated fabrics were reduced, the LOI value in-creased to 32 which is almost 77.78% higher than theuntreated cotton.

3.6. Ultra-violet (UV) Protection PropertyThe ultra-violet protection factor (UPF) values of theuntreated cotton, GO-cotton, and G-cotton fabrics areshown in the Table 3. UV radiation is responsible for

Table 2: Flammability Assessment of untreated cotton, GO-cotton, and G-cotton

Flammability parameter Cotton GO-cotton G-cotton

2% 4% 6% 8% 10%

LOI 18 28 25 26 28 30 32

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major causes of degradation of textile materials owingto its very large surface-volume ratio. The applicationof graphene oxide and its reduction onto the cellulosicsubstrate like cotton resulted in an achievement ofexcellency in the protection against the harmful UVrays as observed through the UPF ratings. The UPFvalues obtained for the treated specimens were foundto exceed 50 (actual value very high) which suggeststhat the dark color obtained due to the graphene oxideand graphene induces higher absorption of UV radia-tions.

Scanning Electron Micrographs confirmed the deposi-tion of graphene oxide on the cotton fabric as well asits conversion to graphene after its reduction onto thecotton substrate. The formation of such graphene-basedcotton fabric could offer multi-functional propertiespossessing good fire retardancy, excellent ultravioletprotection along with a very good resistance againstbacteria. The effect of washings on such kind of valueadditions to the cellulosic textiles like cotton with aconcern to durability is to be covered up in the furtherscope of this research work.

3.7. Antimicrobial ActivityAntimicrobial results of the untreated and treated cot-ton fabrics for S. aureus and E. coli bacteria aretabulated in Table 4. It could be seen that 85.91% forS. aureus and 84.48% for E. coli was the reductionpercentage of colonies for the graphene oxide coatedcotton fabric. It was also found that after reduction ofgraphene oxide, G-cotton fabric showed around 99%bacterial reduction both for S.aureus and E.coli bac-teria. Thus, reduction of graphene oxide onto cottonsubstrate has excellent antimicrobial property. Graphene-based materials can exhibit antimicrobial activity byelectron transfer since it can act as an electron accep-tor and abstract electrons from bacterial membrane,which may compromise its membrane integrity [8].

Table 4: Antimicrobial Activity of untreated cotton, GO-cotton and G-cotton

Type of Fabric Quantitative Test (AATCC 100) Bacterial reduction (%)

S. aureus E. coli

Cotton No reduction No reduction

GO-cotton 85.91% 84.48%

G-cotton 99.32% 99.11%

4. ConclusionIn this research work, an eco-friendly green reductionof graphene oxide was achieved with a natural reduc-ing agent. FTIR spectra primarily confirmed the re-moval of oxygen-containing functional groups from thesurface of the graphene oxide. X-ray diffractogramsfurther supported the reduction of the graphene oxide.

References1. Nilsson, M., Varnäs, A., Kehler Siebert, C., Nilsson,

L. J., Nyqvist, B., & Ericsson, K. (2009). A Euro-pean eco-efficient economy-Governing climate,energy and competitiveness. Report for the 2009Swedish presidency of the Council of the EuropeanUnion.

2. Wallace, P. R. (1947). The band theory of graphite.Physical Review, 71(9), 622.

3. Novoselov, K. S., Geim, A. K., Morozov, S. V.,Jiang, D., Zhang, Y., Dubonos, S. V., Grigirieva, I.V., & Firsov, A. A. (2004). Electric field effect inatomically thin carbon films. Science, 306(5696),666-669.

4. Bharech, S., & Kumar, R. (2015). A review on theproperties and applications of graphene. J MaterSci Mechan Eng, 2(10), 70.

5. Zhu, J., Yang, D., Yin, Z., Yan, Q., & Zhang, H.(2014). Graphene and graphene based materials forenergy storage applications. Small, 10(17), 3480-3498.

6. Khalili, D. (2016). Graphene oxide: a promisingcarbocatalyst for the regioselective thiocyanationof aromatic amines, phenols, anisols and enolizableketones by hydrogen peroxide/KSCN in water. NewJournal of Chemistry, 40(3), 2547-2553.

7. Krishnamoorthy, K., Kim, G. S., & Kim, S. J.(2013). Graphene nanosheets: ultrasound assistedsynthesis and characterization. Ultrasonicssonochemistry, 20(2), 644-649.

8. Kumar, P., Huo, P., Zhang, R., & Liu, B. (2019).Antibacterial Properties of Graphene-BasedNanomaterials. Nanomaterials, 9(5), 737.

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Table 3: Ultra-violet (UV) Protection of untreated cotton, GO-cotton, and G-cotton

Flammability parameter Cotton GO-cotton G-cotton

2% 4% 6% 8% 10%

UPF 24.4 50+ 50+ 50+ 50+ 50+ 50+

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TEXPERIENCE

Inventory - a Tool for Productivity

Mr. R.N. Yadav is having a wideexperience in the Textile Industry forlast 50 years in Spinning & CompositeMills. He has started his career fromsupervisory level and gradually withhis skill and talent in work elevatedhim to Mill President position. He hasoccupied independent top authority asVice President & President during hislast 32 years service.Mr. Yadav worked with leadingindustrial houses like BharatCommerce & Industries, BhilwaraGroup, Mohota Group, Suryalata,Siddhartha and Jagdamba Group(Nepal).Mr. Yadav independently started & ledsuccessfully four new projects andrenovated five mills. He establishedmany new milestones in quality &productivity. He presented severalpapers in textile conferences and othermeets affiliated to textile industries. Hehas to his credit 110 + technical &managerial papers published in textilejournals and national dailies. Mr. Yadavis also author of a hand book“Productivity” on strategic industrialmanagement published in 2004.He is the recipient of Precitex award in1991 & TAI— MP has conferred onhim Lifetime Achievement Award in2014 and Legendary Award in 2018.He is Patron Member, The TextileAssociation (India); Life Member,Indian Environmental Association andEditorial Board Member, SpinningTextiles.At present principal consultant withAaryan Associate engaged in providingservices for textile mill management,technology upgrading & productivityenhancement.E-mail : [email protected]

Mr. R. N. yadav

IntroductionA housewife in her very deceptive ordinariness is exceptionally extraordinaryin managing her kitchen inventory. It's almost everywhere; what quantumrequired for cereals, milk, vegetables, salts, sugar, cooking oils, ghee, spices,fruits, dry fruits, cooking gas etc. She estimates monthly budget and setsquantum of each and every required item, sets purchase schedule to makeit cheaper in cost, better in quality and practically no waste. The complexdecision indeed depends on wholesome knowledge and experience aboutquality, taste, durability, availability, storing facility, cost, payment and realconsumption. The perfection comes through day-night experiences by thelady just from her childhood and it grows confidently and constantly parallelas she grows up. She knows green vegetables available to her in market andhow long it can last. She knows the particular pulse will last up to theparticular period and also she knows how it should be stored. She has similarexperience with milk, fruit and other daily needed items. She also has pro-curement ideas; what to be purchased, when to be purchased and how todown size cost for absolute quality she needs. Not more, she also knowshow to use by-products and remains of kitchen reparations. Really a silentcontrol, isn't?

In textile industry, inventory plays a major role for productivity. Inventorymanager should actuate ideas just in style of a housewife managing herkitchen inventory. If one look into one's kitchen will certainly find basicformulae for inventory control. Various persons responsible for differentinventories like raw -materials, machinery spares, store's consumables etc.have to plan purchases and storage as per need and the best if ' just-in- time' reach. For example fibre bales reaching the spinning mill if now be imme-diately rushed to mixing and blow room as needed. A yarn bag should reachloom shed or greige fabric to process house just- in-time, allowing nowaiting time and as such inventory moves towards zero. Only emergencystock for product -mix should be kept there if required for contentiousprocess. The same is in case of stores and spares or packing materials likesacks, bags, cartons etc. But all the practices require planning and properactuation and the most important co-ordination among all working groupsand subsequent processwise production people. The needs, services andessentials be planned, replanned and monitored time to time for each andevery production unit. Rejection, wastage, re-use, purchase and repurchaseshould be done in planned way but making all possibility for just-in-time.Time and again schedules should be altered and re- altered as per need.

To focus on the subject a few guidelines are being explained further undervarious captions;

Raw MaterialsVarious raw materials for textile industry as under,Spinning mills - cotton or synthetic fibre bales,Weaving mills/ Hosiery mills, yarn bags,Process house - Greige clothGarment units - semi- finished or finished fabrics

Management has to decide qualitywise minimum requirements as per salesand supplies. Purchase orders be made looking to all elements like price,


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availability, quality assurance, lead time for supply etc.etc. With all surities management must re-assure thereach of the raw materials to mills just before needed forproduction. Time reduced for purchase, storage, pro-duction and supply drastically reduces cost of product.Orders may be placed for fibre, yarn and fabric for amonth, two months or even for a year but suppliesshould be scheduled as per just-in-time reach so thatmaterial received at godown is immediately taken intoproduction. It is possible only if mutual understandingexists there between buyer and seller. Also, if neededchanges in supply schedule or reschedule be effectedwithout hampering business relations. Applying mind,some inventory managers are smart enough to maintainraw materials stock just for seven days or even lessdays production.

StoresIn textile mills many consumable items are required fromsweeping brooms, cleaning powder to electric bulbs,machinery spares and electric motors etc. There arebroadly two section of stores items as per availability,locally available or to be purchased from outside, withincountry or to be imported. Local based items can bepurchased on daily or weekly basis in numbers lookingat cost effectiveness and storage facility. Items to bepurchased from outside one has to take quotations fromdifferent suppliers, to calculate collection charges, toconfirm quality parameters, payment terms etc. and toassess lead time accordingly.

Next purchase should be actuated by trial order, confirmorders with proper schedules but with a provision ofreschedule, postponement or preponement of supplies asand when needed.

SparesMachines require regular maintenance to keep up ma-chines in sound health and accordingly preventive main-tenance is scheduled for oiling, greasing, cleaning of allparts and replacement of every wear-n- tear parts. Cer-tain parts are also required to be changed for conformityof production parameters or for alter in product line.

Also, as such spare parts are regularly required and henceit's essential to maintain a minimum stock of spares.Those are mostly available from machinery manufactur-ers and also available in open market. Electrical compo-nents, motors, driving belts suitable pulleys are alsoneeded either due to failure or for change in product-mix. One must keep vigil for genuine spare parts. Sin-cerity of suppliers must be judged time and again. Evenpaying higher price for correct spares rests the purchasecost effective. Regular feedbacks from various sourcesand data collection regarding availibility, cost suppliesshould be maintained update. Of late, it is easier due to

quick information, e-mail site logging and study, yourfingers on mouse, data on screen of your computer,eyes on sites and mind set for catches.

StorageStorage of various items needs a very systematic andscientific approach. Being in different physical and chem-ical properties, items to be stored shouldn't harm oneanother and should be easier to carry out the materialsto working site. For example , fibre bale godown shouldbe adjacent to mixing room so that mixing men cancollect fibre at the time of mixing easily and in no time.And if the godown is away, extra hands are required forcollection of the bales. Similarly yarn stock should benear loom shed or near the warping area or knittingmachines. Starch and other ingredients for sizing shouldbe near the sizing machines. All maintenance rooms andaccessories must be adjacent to respective workplaces.Finished goods godown be nearer cone winding sectionin case of spinning mill, adjacent to loom shed or knit-ting machines in case of greige fabric and nearer tofolding section in case of finished fabrics. Practically,excise godowns should be adjacent or very nearer topacking, folding and stamping locations.

TechnologyTechnology means application of science to the solutionof problem. It enables human beings to regulate theirenvironment. Technology is not merely a matter ofmachines or microchips. It's not a matter of interestonly for scientists and laboratories. We have enteredinto an era in which technology is power, technology iswealth and control over technology is a source of influ-ence and power. Welcome technology with arms wideopen. Use of information technology like e-mail and site-log can be used to reduce inventory. Purchase orderprocessing expenses are extremely reduced to a bareminimum. Most important expenditures and time con-sumed in postals, telephone etc. are further reduced bye-mail and site logging.

Human OrderThe problem of inventory control in textile industry is,therefore, of considerable importance. Policies of inven-tory control in a firm may be complex but essentialprinciples are straight forward. On pattern of materialorder formula "A place for everything and everything inits place." there should be a human order formula too"A place for everyone and everyone in his/ her place."Integrated approach on these lines will certainly haveproductive impact on material management. A managermust be able to have creative ideas generated at any leveland utilise those to control inventory. If inputs and out-puts, that is , purchase, sales and services are wellplanned beforehand there is no reason far inventory notbeing led towards zero. There will be no need of adjec-


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tives like minimum, optimum, controlled or model as foras inventory is concerned. And there comes the humanorder. Think it again.

ConsciousnessA person in business may feel uneasy about survival inthis competitive world without keeping some inventoryof raw material, work in process, products and spares.This type of hoarding, however he is no longer practical.Industry must develop courage or rather the commonsense to procure what is needed, when it is needed andin what amount needed. It requires a revolution in con-sciousness, a change of attitude and viewpoint. Holdinga large inventory causes waste. It also leads to an inven-tory of detectives which is really a loss. We must under-stand these situations in depth before we can reach arevolution in consciousness.

WasteIn production waste is referred to all elements of pro-duction other than product waste or process waste andthat only increase cost of product without adding anyvalue, excess people, excess inventory and exceeds equip-ment. Too many people, equipment and product onlyincrease the cost by creating secondary waste. With toomany workers unnecessary work is generated which inturn increases usage of power and materials. This issecondary waste. The biggest waste of all is huge inven-tory to store. It needs more space, more worker andtime. Again more expenses and therefore higher cost ofproduct. So all type of waste should be eliminated toreduce cost and inventory should be taken near zero.

Side EffectsHigher inventories invite problems like theft, corrosion,deterioration in quality characteristics etc. Iron and steelitems get corroded due to moisture and rusting. Chem-ical and dyes ooze out their intensity. Salts get moistenedand damage other materials lying in vicinity.

Rubber and leather items need special attention. Rubbercots and aprons get ozoniged dimensionally distorted inadverse climatic conditions. Such items better be storedin dark room and that too in below room temperature.Colour and chemicals should be stored in seperate area.Ageing effects cannot be ruled out on certain items likeadhesives, greases, oils, soaps etc. Accidents like fire,building collapse, theft, heavy rain and havoc are alsodetrimental if inventories are huge.

Transit InventoryNow it is high time to believe in transit inventory and topractice it. Material procurement should be as such thatas soon it reaches factory it can be taken into productionline. There is a fact to believe that iron ore from mineis converted into a car running on road within three and

a half days, practically made possible by Henry Ford,America, a very good example of transit inventory. Italso proves no inventory process.

Just --in--timeIt is much more than inventory reduction. It's muchmore than modernising the factory. It's, in senses, mak-ing a factory operate for the company just like the hu-man body operates for an individual. The human bodyfunctions in good health when it is properly cared for,fed and watered correctly, exercised regularly and treat-ed with most respect. It's a unique concept.

Just-in-time means that in a princess flow the rightmaterials needed reach in process at the time those areneeded and only in the needed amount. A company es-tablishing such type of process flow throughout canachieve zero inventories. From point of view of produc-tion management it's an ideal state. With a better tool wecan get wonderful results. But if we use it incorrectly,the tool can make things the worst. Just-in-time is a typeof tool that when used improperly can cause variety ofproblems. An upset in production, mistake in planning,defective products, reprocess, trouble in and with ma-chinery and equipment, absenteeism problems are count-less. A problem early in the process always results in adefective product later in the process. As such theremay be production line stoppage or change in planwhether management likes it or not. Conventional man-agement doesn't work here. The word "just in" "just-in-time"means exactly that if material reaches any time priorto it's need not at the exact time it needed waste cannotbe eliminated. Therefore use of JIT system must beimplemented correctly and if so there is no need of extrainventory, there is no need of warehouse and it's man-ager. Generation of countless papers also becomes ob-solete. Once decided upon it should be taken with firmand determined mind and see miracle happens; increasein efficiency and reduction in almost all type of waste--primary and secondary.

DisposalThere are following types of disposals which make apart of inventory;a) Process waste which can't be recycled,b) By-productsc) Defective productsd) Package wastee) Retired machine parts and consumables.

There should be daily, weekly or monthly schedule forsale of disposable items depending upon quantum. Pro-cess waste should be sold out immediately as and whensaleable package been ready. By-products should be onregular sale programme and it should be chalked outwith production plan of main product.

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As by it's meaning, a by-products product is a producewhile processing of the main product. The defectivegoods should be cleared on reduced rates. In case offibre it can be sold out with Sun-Times standard coding.Similarly defective yarn can be sold out to low qualityconsumers with claimed quality tags. Defective clothcan made seconds, fents or chindi and cleared on lowerrates. Readymade garments not conforming to standardquality can be channelized to move in market away fromstandard sale area, better without usual brand. Certainitems like plastic materials in form of sheets, paper pack-ages, cartons, iron boxes, wooden cases etc. should becleared separately quality wise with value engineeringconcept. Instead of mix-up of all items, those should besorted out, kept separately to realize maximum price.Same methodology should be adapted for disposal ofused, worn-out and damaged machinery parts and storesconsumable items like card cans, Bobbins, reeds, healds,

gears, runner-up blankets, motors, pulleys, belts, ropes,tube lights, bulbs, etc. Unusable office and utility itemslike furnitures, fans, air-conditioners, telephones, com-puter, table glasses, utensils, crockeries etc. should becleared out on routine basis.

FocusThe aspects briefed above are a few examples and areconcerned to a few segments only like raw materials,stores, spares, storage, technology, human order, con-sciousness, waste, side impacts, transit inventory, just-in-time and disposals. Your kitchen core impact for keep-ing your house in healthy condition with near zero in-ventories. Not only A, B, C, for inventory managementstarts from your kitchen but a total solution is there.Only you have to search it.

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TEXPERIENCE

The Textile Association (India) Visit us

on www.textileassociationindia.org

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The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the TextileAssociation. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful toits unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physicalproperties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation,useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, andfinally ending up with its future prospects.

This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working ingraphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of grapheneand its application in textiles.

The previous chapter threw some insights upon graphene based membrane and its various potential applications. Thepreparation methods of graphene oxide membrane were reviewed, including vacuum suction filtration, spray coating,spin coating, dip coating and the layer by layer method. The development and application of graphene based membranein water treatment were briefly discussed.

The present chapter presents the latest theoretical and experimental studies over versatilities of graphene and itsderivatives for carbon capture. Imposing effective carbon dioxide remediation strategies as one of the top urgenciesof 21st century requires state-of-the-art materials development and graphene could play a game-changing role in thisregard.

Chapter 17GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : CO2 Sensing

Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli

TEXNOTE

Graphene has been used for many major applications,particularly: (i) in energy-related areas, modifiedgraphene materials have been used in solar cells whilemetallic/metal oxides in combination with graphene areutilized in lithium ion batteries, super-capacitors, andfuel cells; (ii) in the environmental pollution remediationarea, graphene and magnetic graphene nanomaterialshave been employed as adsorbents for heavy metalions and organic pollutants, while several transition-metal oxide graphene hybrids are studied for the deg-radation of toxic organic pollutants. Graphene-basedmaterials have been also examined as the pollutantsensors including CO

2 sensing applications.

Energy and environmental issues are two of the majorchallenges facing modern civilization by the mid-cen-tury. From this perspective, fossil fuels are double-edged swords that require a delicate balance betweentheir benefits and drawbacks. They are undoubtedlyversatile energy sources; where oil and natural gassupply close to 90% of our current energy requirementcomes from, making so many industrial activities eco-nomically feasible. The adaptabilities offered by thecarbonaceous fuels have still preserved their impor-tance as the main source of energy for a wide varietyof applications. Firstly, they are available in a widerange of physical states (gas, liquid and solid) spread-

ing almost worldwide. Secondly, myriad of technologi-cal advances are made with respect to their implemen-tation for various applications in different scales. Thirdly,owing to high energy density and portability, their su-perior properties as fuels in transportation industrycannot be overstated. The increasingly alarming cli-mate change issues have occurred due to notableamounts of carbon dioxide emissions from undue con-sumption of fossil fuels. Burning nearly 1 g of carbonin fossil fuels could release more than 3.5 g of carbondioxide (CO

2), accumulation of which is now approach-

ing 1 Tt in the atmosphere.

Long-term solutions to address the aforementionedproblems are based on the development of sustainablealternatives for quenching the ever-increasing humanenergy thirst. Meanwhile, in the current fashion ofrunaway fossil fuel intakes, CO

2 reduction strategies

particularly from large-scale energy consumers relymainly upon three proposed generic solutions for CO

2

capture and storage (CCS):pre- and post-combustioncapture, and oxy-fuel combustion. Afterwards, thepurified CO

2 is sent for physical storage options such

as deep ocean sequestration, geological storage, limitedindustrial uses, etc. However, researchers believe thatstoring CO

2 somewhere other than atmosphere is not

the permanent solution to the problem. In fact, the long


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term ecological and environmental impacts of using theearth as a gigantic reservoir for carbon dioxide are notwell understood. The potential hazards of CO

2 leakage

to the earth surface remarkably increase the risk ofthis approach. Based on the facts stated above, chemi-cal transformation of CO

2 can be a realistic solution to

the CO2 sequestration concerns; which could ultimately

lead to the utopia for fossil-fuel-based economies withtaking full advantage of the carbonaceous fuels whileminimizing their negative environmental impacts. Thisapproach of recovering CO

2 in order to synthesize useful

products is capable of sustainable reduction of carbonemissions, and is known as carbon capture and con-version (CCC). The economic advantages of produc-ing valuable chemicals from CO

2 provide further in-

centives for major emitters to move towards this direc-tion.

Graphene, as the rising star of the materials world in21st century, offers game-changing prospects towardsa more sustainable future for fossil fuel based econo-mies. This two dimensional planar sheet of sp2-bondedcarbon atoms is the most widely studied nanomaterialsince its discovery in 2004 by Sir Andre Geim and Dr.Konstantin Novoselov. Considering its enormous uniqueproperties, graphene can be implemented promisinglywithin many areas of energy and environmental re-search. It has a large theoretical specific surface area(~2630 m2g-1), high intrinsic charge mobility (~200,000cm2v-1s-1), strong Young's modulus (~1.0 TPa), andexcellent thermal conductivity (~5000 Wm-1K-1), whilehaving significant optical transmittance (97.7%) forapplication as transparent conductive electrodes.

Figure 1: Graphene as a CO2 sensor

Graphene-assisted CO2 capture

Graphene-based sorbentsCarbon-based adsorbents are among the most promis-ing materials for CO

2 capture due to their chemical

inertness, high surface area, and low cost. Porous

carbons have revealed a significant advantage overzeolites in terms of hydrophobicity for CO

2 capture.

However, the competitive adsorption of water on otherhydrophilic carbonaceous surfaces till reduces their CO

2

uptake capacities. Several types of carbon materialshave been studied for CO

2 capture including activated

carbons, carbon molecular sieves (CMS), carbonnanotubes (CNT), and graphene heterostructures asthe most recent constructs. Among those, graphenehas the largest surface area (~2630 m2g-1), and is thuspresumed to outperform the others.

Recently, relatively high uptake of hydrogen and car-bon dioxide by rGO sheets with a wide range of sur-face areas is reported. A reasonable hydrogen uptakeof 1.7 wt% was observed at 1 atm and 77 K, wherethe values were linearly correlated with the surfacearea. Thus, upon extrapolation, the hydrogen uptake bysingle-layered graphene was projected to exceed 3wt%. The H

2 adsorption at 100 atm and 298 K was

found to surpass 3 wt%, which suggests much higheruptakes by the mono-layered graphene via linear ex-trapolation. On the otherside, rGOs showed remark-ably higher uptakes for CO

2, approaching 35 wt% at

1 atm and 195 K. This was further backed by anotherstudy on rGOs obtained from various thermal reduc-tion conditions showing high CO

2 capture capacities

(248 wt% under 298 K and 30 bar). Such uptakeswere significantly higher than those for commercialzeolites (7-fold) and activated carbons (3.5-fold) undersimilar experimental conditions.

A few theoretical works have explored the determin-ing role of edges on the physicochemical properties ofnanographenes as they contain numerous edges withvarious types of defects. The edges contribution to themolecular adsorption by graphene nanosheets was iso-lated from that for basal planes using Grand CanonicalMonte Carlo (GCMC) simulations. The edge sites ofsuch nanosheets show relatively strong Coulombic in-teractions due to the partial charging at the vertices,while basal planes hardly afford such interactions. Themodeling results revealed that the edge sites are moreinclined towards CO

2 adsorption, while N

2 mostly sits

on the basal planes. This leads to an extremely highselectivity for CO

2 adsorption over N

2 on the edge

sites, which the number exceeds 30 in pressures below0.02 MPa. Therefore, fine-tuning of the edge sitesversus basal planes in graphene nanosheets can suittheir applications for selective adsorptions, reactions,and separations.


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From surface chemistry point of view, basic adsorbentsshow more affinity towards CO

2 capture due to the

slightly acidic nature of CO2. Consequently, adsorbents

modified with amines have shown high CO2 adsorption

uptake, which improves further when nitrogen is effec-tively incorporated within the support's framework.Thus, researchers have aimed to improve theCO

2capture characteristics of amine-based carbon ma-

terials by increasing the surface density of the aminegroups on the support as well as strengthening theamine-support immobilization. Along this approach,polyaniline (PANI), as a rich source of nitrogen-con-taining groups, has been impregnated on various sup-ports and membranes with promising results. The suit-able supports for such applications should meet severalcriteria including strong attraction for the amine-con-taining molecules, high surface area with proper poresize distribution, reasonable mechanical strength andhydrothermal stability. Graphene matches very well withthe stated requirements, and therefore polyaniline-graphene nanocomposites have shown encouraging CO

2

capture performance.

Successful synthesis of graphene-based mesoporoussilica (G-silica) sheets is reported recently with sand-wich-like structure and high surface area. Confininggraphene nanosheets within individual porous silicasheets enables the end product to have broader appli-cations particularly in ultrafast energy storage. It wasfound that G-silica sheets can serve as an effectivehost for immobilizing polyethyleneimine (PEI), as an-other amine-rich compound (denoted as PEI-G-silica).The resulting PEI-G-silica sheets not only had an ul-trathin structure with high PEI surface density, but alsoexhibited superior thermal conductivities originated fromgraphene nanosheets. Such features afforded the syn-thesized nanocomposite for an efficient CO

2 diffusivity/

adsorption as well as rapid thermal transfer for fasterregeneration kinetics. Accordingly, high CO

2 uptake of

19 wt% with reasonable regenerability at 750C andatmospheric pressure was achieved by PEI-G-silicasheets.

Graphene-Mn3O

4 (GMNO) hybrid porous materials

have also shown promising carbon dioxide adsorptioncapacities. Metal oxides that offer various basic sitesare extensively studied as alkaline CO

2 adsorbents.

Obviously, the surface area is another determiningfactor, and specific strategies are followed to benefitfrom basicity on higher accessible areas. This includessynthesis of porous metal oxide materials, and impreg-

nating metal oxide nanoparticles on high surface areamaterials.

SummaryAlarming carbon dioxide emissions and its detrimentalenvironmental impacts are the major consequences ofthe undue reliance of the modern civilization on fossilfuels. Long-term solutions to address these issues arebased on developing sustainable alternatives for thehuman energy thirst. However, the versatilities offeredby the carbonaceous fuels have still preserved theirpopularity as the main sources of energy. A substantialdevelopment of state-of-the-art materials remains themajor bottleneck of such technologies.

Graphene, as the rising star of the materials world in21st century, offers game-changing prospects towardsa more sustainable future for fossil-fuel-based econo-mies. This two- dimensional planar sheet of sp2-bondedcarbon atoms is the most widely studied nanomaterialsince its discovery in 2004. This review aims to throwinsights upon various aspects of graphene research incarbon dioxide sensing.

Bibliography

1. Huaman R. N. E. and Jun T. X., Renewable andSustainable Energy Reviews, 31, 368-385, (2014).

2. Jones C. W. and Maginn E. J., Chem Sus Chem,3, 863-864, (2010).

3. Orr F. M. science, 325, 1656-1658, (2009).4. Huntzinger D. N., Gierke J. S., Kawatra S. K.,

Eisele T. C. and Sutter L. L. Environmental Sci-ence & Technology, 43, 1986-1992, (2009).

5. Orr Jr F. M. Energy & Environmental Science,2, 449-458, (2009).

6. Azar C., Lindgren K., Larson E. and MöllerstenK. Climatic Change, 74, 47-79, (2006).

7. Novoselov K. S., Geim A. K., Morozov S. V.,Jiang D., Zhang Y., Dubonos S. V., Grogorieva I.V. and Firsov A. A., science, 306, 666-669, (2004).

8. Rubin E. S., Chen C. and Rao A. B. Energypolicy, 35, 4444-4454, (2007).

9. Seema H., Kemp K. C., Le N. H., Park S. W.,Chandra V., Lee J. W. and Kim K. S. Carbon,66, 320-326, (2014).

10. Yang S., Zhan L., Xu X., Wang Y., Ling L. andFeng X. Advanced Materials, 25, 2130-2134,(2013).

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The Textile Association (India)

TAI - PHC Unit

UNIT ACTIVITY

75thPlatinum Jubilee All IndiaTextile Conference

gets an overwhelming response"Indian Textile Industry - A Paradigm Shift"

After its enormous success in 2001 & 2006, The Tex-tile Association (India) - PHC Unit has successfullyhosted 75th Platinum Jubilee All India Textile Confer-ence at Chandigarh on "Indian Textile Industry - AParadigm Shift" on 15th&16th November, 2019 at Ho-tel The Lalit, IT Park, Chandigarh.

Chief Guest H.E.Shri V.P.S. Badnore - Governor ofPunjab and U.T. lightening the lamp

Mr. Ashish Bagrodia - Chairman and Managing Direc-tor -Winsome Textile Ind. Pvt. Ltd.

lightening the lamp

At the inaugural session, His Excellence Shri V.P.S.Badnore - Governor of Punjab and U.T. Administratorwas the Chief Guest of the function. Shri Ashish

Bagrodia - Chairman and Managing Director -Win-some Textile Industries Pvt. Ltd. Was the Guest ofhonor. Shri Satish Marwah, Hon. Secretary, TAI PHCUnit; Shri A. K. Vedhera, Vice President, TAI PHCUnit; Shri S. N. Sodhi, Conference Chairman; Shri L.K. Singh, President, TAI PHC Unit; Shri Hasmu khbhaiS. Patel,Member of Parliament, Lok Sabha, Gujarat;Shri T. K. Sengupta, President, TAI Central, Shri R.K. Vij, Vice President, TAI Central; Dr. HemantSonare, Chairman, TAICentral & Shri PrashantAgarwal, Jt. Managing Director, WAZIR Advisors Pvt.Ltd.were present on the dais.

Shri T. K. Sengupta, President TAI - Central Officedelivering presidential address

Shri S. N. Sodhi, Conference Chairman briefing aboutthe 75th Platinum Jubilee All India Textile Conference

Chief Guest His Excellence Shri V. P. S. Badnore -Governor of Punjab and U. T. Administrator delivering

his inaugural address


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Shri L. K. Singh, President, TAI PHC Unit felicitatingChief Guest His Excellence Shri V. P. S. Badnore

with Memento

At the inaugural session, Shri L. K. Singh, President,TAI, PHC Unit delivered welcome address. Shri T. K.Sengupta, President TAI - Central Office deliveredpresidential address. Shri S. N. Sodhi, ConferenceChairman briefed about the 75th Platinum Jubilee AllIndia Textile Conference. All the present guests on thedais were welcomed by offering floral bouquets.

While addressing welcome address, Shri L. K. Singh,President, TAI PHC Unit emphasizes the importanceof positive approach and high altitude in achieving thetargets on productivity and quality to make the industryto regain its past glorious golden period.

The Textile Association (India) - PHC Unit felicitatedwith Industrial Excellence Award to Shri Rajiv Garg -MD, Garg Acrylics Ltd. for his outstanding contribu-tion to Textile Industry and awarded with Rising Entre-preneur Award respectively to Shri Mukesh Tyagi -MD, BST Textile Mills Pvt. Ltd., by hands of ChiefGuest His Excellence Shri V. P. S. Badnore - Gover-nor of Punjab and U. T. Administrator.

Shri Rajiv Garg - MD, Garg Acrylics Ltd. receivingIndustrial Excellence Award

Shri Mukesh Tyagi - MD, BST Textile Mills Pvt.Ltd.receiving Rising Entrepreneur Award

During the inaugural session The Textile Association(India) felicitated the personalities for the recognitionof their Meritorious Services and significant contribu-tion to the Industry and the Association by hands ofGuest of Honour Shri Ashish Bagrodia - Chairman andManaging Director -Winsome Textile Industries Pvt.Ltd.. (Dr.) P. G. Patil,has been awarded HonoraryF.T.A. for the significant contribution in the academicfield. On behalf of Dr. P. G. Patil, Shri Haresh B.Parekh received the award.

On behalf of Dr. P. G. Patil, Shri Haresh B. Parekhreceived the award

Shri V. D. Zope receiving Service Gold Medal by hands Of Shri Ashish Bagrodia, Guest of Honour


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Shri K. K. Agarwal receiving Service Memento by handsof Shri Ashish Bagrodia, Guest of Honour

Shri Rajeshkumar J. Shah receiving Service Memento byhands of Shri Ashish Bagrodia, Guest of Honour

Mr. V. C. Zopehas been awarded with Service GoldMedal (Instituted in memory of Hon. Maj. R. P.Poddar), for the recognition of his services to theAssociation.Mr. K. K. Agarwalhas been awarded withService Memento (Instituted by Shri H. A. Shah) andMr. Rajeshkumar J. Shahhas been awarded with Ser-vice Memento (Instituted by Shri J. J. Randeri), fortheir services to the Association at Unit level.

Also the Best Unit trophies are awarded with an ideato provide an incentive to the active Unit and to en-courage others to be more and more active, contribut-ing to the consolidation of The Textile Associations(India) as a whole. TAI Delhi Unit from the group oflarger Units was awarded Best Unit Trophy. Therewas no nomination received from smaller Unit havingless than 1000 member strength.

Office Bearers & members of TAI Delhi Unit receivingBest Unit Award by hands of Shri Ashish Bagrodia,

Guest of Honour

Shri J. K. Srivastavareceiving FTA Certificate by handsof Shri Ashish Bagrodia, Guest of Honour

Shri Hasnukhbhai S. Patel, MP, Lok Sabha, Gujarat isbeing honored with Memento by hands of Shri Ashish

Bagrodia, Guest of Honour

Attractive Souvenirbeing released by Chief Guest andother dignitaries on the dais

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Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel, Member of Parliament,Lok Sabha, Gujarat has been honored and felicitatedhim with the Memento by Shri Ashish Bagrodia, Guestof Honour. An Attractive Souvenir during the confer-ence was released by Chief Guest and the dignitarieson the dais.

At the end of Inaugural Session Mr. A. K. Vedhera,Vice President, TAI PHC proposed the Vote of Thanks.

Among all the eminent participants some special inviteessuch as Mr. Aditya Sachan, ED ST Cottex; Mr. T.Chandermohan, Chief Executive, Nahar Spinning Mills;Mr. Mukesh Rustagi, G.M., Nahar Fibers; Mr. K.Kamila, EVP Operations, Sutlej Industries Ltd., Kathua;Mr.U.K.Pattnaik, G.M., Maintenance, Sutlej IndustriesLtd., Kathua; Mr. Mukesh Saxena, Corporate GeneralManager (Technical), Vardhman; Mr.S.L.Garg, Corpo-rate Vice President (Technical), Nahar Industries En-terprises Ltd. (NIEL); Mr.Gurpreet Singh, Sr. VicePresident, Vardhman; Mr.VikasMittal, Vice President,Vardhman; Mr. Rajeev Mehani, V.P. (Technical),Vardhman Corporate; Mr. Rajesh Dhingra, Sr. V.P.,Nahar Spinning attended and graced the event.

TAI PHC Unit organized an excellent 2 days confer-ence with appropriate topics, eminent expert speakersand excellent participation from the industry members.All the presentation and the discussion in both PlenarySessions and the Panel Discussion were of most rel-evant topics and all were much on innovative, informa-tive and research. There was wonderful hospitality toall participants.

Organizer organized small exhibition of 8 stalls for AlliedTextile Products. There were about 26 generous spon-sors for this event. On the whole, 75th Platinum Jubi-lee All India Textile Conference turned out a grand

success with over 250 participants gained much fromthe discussions and deliberations held.

Mr. Satish Marwah proposing vote of thanks

View of Audience

At the end of first day program, Fashion Show wasorganized, sponsored by Indorama, presented by Stu-dents of IIFD, Chandigarh.

Two days conference ended with concluding remarkand vote of thanks by Mr. Satish Marwah, Hon. Sec-retary, TAI PHC Unit.

TAI - Ahmedabad Unit

Activities of The Textile Association (India) -Ahmedabad Unit

Diwali Get To-gather function for the Members andPrize distribution function to the bright students: TheTextile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit organisedDiwali get to-gather function for the members and theirfamily members on 9th November, 2019 at Dinesh Hall,Ahmedabad. Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel, President

welcomed to the members and briefed about the ac-tivities and planning of future activities of the associa-tion. After welcome address there was prize distribu-tion function to the bright students of the children andgrandchildren of the association members. The prizeshave given to the students from "Late Shri B. A. ShahEducational & WelfareFund".

ShriPrashantbhai B. Shah, son of Late Shri B. A. Shahpresided over the function to hand over the prizes tothe students. Total 21 prize mementos with certificateshanded over to the selected prize recipients by the

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hand of Shri Prashrna B. Shah. Also Shri PrashantbhaiB. Shah delivered the speech about the function andencouraged to the students.

Shri Harishbhai C. Shah, Hon. Secretary proposed voteof thanks at the end of the programme.

Glimpses of photographs

Dignitaries on the DiasL to R: Harish C. Shah, Hon. Secretary; Prashant B.Shah, Guest; Hasmukh S. Patel, President; Ashwin I.

Thakkar, Vice President; and Asho k kumarD. Patel, Chairman

View of Audience

Shri H. S. Patel, Presidentdelivering welcome address

ShriPrashantbhai B. Shahdelivering his speech

Shri Harish C. Shah, Hon. Secretaryproposing vote of thanks

UNIT ACTIVITY

Align your

company

with the

growing

authority in

Textiles


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Photographs of Prize Recipients

Comedy Natak (ALL THE BEST):After immediate of the Diwali get to-gather and prizedistribution function, The Textile Association (India)Ahmedabad Unitorganised an entertainment programwith comedy natak (All the Best) for the members andtheir family members. The comedy natak was fullyentertaining to the members.

The Textile Association (India) Central Office felici-tated to ShriHasmukhbhai S. Patel, President of TAI-Ahmedabad Unit and Member of Parliament(LokSabha) Ahmedabad-East (Gujarat) during 75thPlatinum Jubilee of the All India Textile Conferenceheld on15th Nov, 2019 at Chandirgarh. The mementois being handed over by the hand of Guest of Honour,Shri Ashish Bagrodia, Chairman & MD, Winsome Tex-tile Industries Limited.

Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel, President of TAI-AhmedabadUnit and Member of Parliament (LokSabha) Ahmedabad

- East (Gujarat) receiving memento by the hand ofGuest of Honour, Shr iAshish Bagrodia, Chairman &

MD, Winsome Textile Industries Limited.

Shri Rajeshkumar J. Shah, Hon. Treasurer, of TAI -Ahmedabad Unit receiving memento by the hand of

Guest of Honour, Shri Ashish Bagrodia, Chairman &MD, Winsome Textile Industries Limited.

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The Textile Association (India) Central Office awardedService Memento (Year 2018-19) donated by Shri H.A. Shah to Shri Rajeshkumar J. Shah, Hon. Treasurer,of TAI-Ahmedabad Unit during 75th Platinum Jubileeof the All India Textile Conference held on 15thNov,2019 at Chandirgarh. The memento is being handedover by the hand of Guest of Honour Shri AshishBagrodia, Chairman & MD, Winsome Textile Indus-tries Limited.

22nd November, 2019: "Effective English Communica-tion"The Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unit startedeffective English Communication training workshop for

its all office bearers, Managing Committee membersand Office Staff.

View of trainees 1st day of training programat Meeting Room of Dinesh Hall

UNIT ACTIVITY

Mr. Vilas V. Gharat Unanimously re-elected asPresident

The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit haselected the new Office Bearers for the term 2019-2021.Mr. Vilas V. Gharathas been unanimously re-elected as President of TAI Mumbai Unit.

Following are the Office Bearers:

Mr. Vilas Gharatis havingover 50 years' experiencein manufacturing function inall composite sectors ofTextile Industry. Out ofwhich more than a decadein Operations and HR withemphasis in Business Pro-cess Consulting,

Mr. Gharat is having Spe-cialization in various field of textile value chain like;◆ Change Management, Business Development and

Project Management◆ Project Management, Business Development◆ Supply Chain Management◆ Resource Allocation◆ Process Reengineering◆ Change Management, Production and Business◆ Planning Function◆ Training and Mentoring CEO's

He has wide experience in:◆ Business Consultant for Oswal Hammerle, for their

TAI - Mumbai Unitupcoming state of art technology plant for manu-facture of sophisticated Yarn Dyed Shirting Project,primarily catering to the needs of internationalgarment manufacturers. This is a Joint Ventureproject of Oswal group and F.M. Hammerle(Austria)

◆ His previous assignment involves restructuring andtransformation of a large Textile units

◆ He worked with various executive capacities asExecutive Director -Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd.;Senior President in S Kumar's., Technical &Commercial Advisor in J. K.Cotton Mills, SeniorPresident in Morarjee Brembana Ltd., Birla's inIndonesia, Oswal Hammerle, Bhojsons, Nigeriaetc.

Awards:Mr. Gharat was awarded with Best General ManagerAward in MSTC - National Award for energy conser-vation for Simplex Mills & MSTC and Best VendorAward from Johnson & Johnson.Mr. Gharat was awarded with FTA by The TextileAssociation (India) in 1999,

Professional Association:He was in Advisory Committee Member for DKTE -Textile & Engineering Institute at Ichalkaranji from2013 to 2016.Professional Training:He conducts a various professional trainings of Trans-formation of Leadership Program, Training in ValleBrembana for High Value Yarn Dyed Shirting. (Italy),Breaking the barrier concept training, Training forMentoring.


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Presently Mr. Gharat is Managing Director: Gharat &Associates (www.gharatandassociates.com), GroupAdvisors: S Kumars Pvt. Ltd. (www.skumars.co).

Mr. Vilas Gharat is a President of TheTextile Asso-ciation (India) - Mumbai Unit during 2017-2019 andonce again he is unanimously re-elected unopposed &unanimously as a President of The Textile Association(India) - Mumbai Unit for the next term 2019-2021.

Mr. Vikas Sharan has beenunanimously elected as VicePresident of TAI MumbaiUnit.

Mr. Vikas Sharan has beenuhas had a distinguishedcareer in the textile machin-ery and machine toolsindustry spanning more thantwenty six years in India and

abroad. He holds a Diploma inTextile Manufacturesfrom DKTE Society's Textile & Engineering Institute,Ichalkaranji, Bachelor's Degree in Textile Technologyfrom Victoria Jubilee Technical Institute (VJTI),Mumbai, along with a Post Graduate Diploma in Busi-ness Management (PGDBM) from Narsee Monjee In-stitute of Management Studies (NMIMS), Mumbai.Mr.Sharan started his career as a Service Engineerwiththe Textile Machinery Division ofVoltas, representingspinning machinery from Lakshmi Machine Works, andthereafter, worked his way up the sales ladder, becom-ing the Branch Head at Mumbai. During the year 2002,

Mr. Sharan was transferredfrom Textile MachineryDivision of Voltasto its International Operations Busi-ness Group in Dubai to handle machine tool businessfor the next six years. He returned to India during2008 and joined the A.T.E.Group as Vice President,handlingthe businesses of Nonwovens, Carpets, Syn-thetics and Circular Knitting. During this time, he wasalso given the overall responsibility of Bangladesh op-erations of A.T.E.

Mr. Sharan joined the Saurer Group during July 2017,as Director-Business Developmentand assumed over-all responsibility of Saurer India on 1st March 2018, asDirector-India Operations, which include the manufac-turing plant at Vadodara, along with functions ofSalesand Service, R&D, Product Management and othershared services of the company.

He is a sitting Member of the Board of Saurer Indiaas Whole Time Director.The other facets of Mr. Sharaninclude a keen interest in sports, music, travelling andphotography.

Other Office Bearers as under:

Mr. C. Bose Mr. V. C. Gupte President Emeritus Chairman

Dr. G. S. Nadiger Mr. Rajeev Ranjan Vice Chairman Vice Chairman

Mr. A. V. Mantri Mr. R. R. Mehta Hon. Secretary Jt. Hon. Secretary

Mr. Arun K. Narkar Mr. M. B. Nambiar Jt. Hon. Secretary Hon. Treasurer

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TAI Marathwada Unit organized VASTRA UDYOJAKBAITHAK 2020

The Textile Association (India) Marathwada Unit,Nanded organized jointly with Department of TextileTechnology of SGGSIE&T, Nanded a meeting withPower Loom owners on 21st December, 2019.

It was attended by 36 entrepreneurs from Basmath &Nanded. They are engaged in manufacturing of hand-kerchief (Dasti), Safron (Patka) etc.

TAI - Marathwada UnitThe meeting was chaired by Mr. Shivprasad Rathi(Vice President, BSP Udyog Aaghadi, Maharashtrastate). The panel of expert were Mr. Arvind Pahurkar(Managing Director, Simplex, Bhiwandi), Mr. PrakashKadtan (General Manager, Shree Durga Synthetics,Surat), Mr. Kshitij Deshpande (Sr. Manager, JacobMulla, Banglore), Mr. Venkatesh Kolekar, Dr. HemantSonare (Ex-Chairman, TAI), Dr. P. G. Solankar, Dr R.N. Joshi, Dr. Prabir Kar & Dr. N. Shrikrishna.

Following Power Loom Industry problems were dis-cussed and remedy was suggested by the panel.1. MSEB office is not cooperating for offering

concessional tariff.2. State textile policy schemes are not reaching to

stake holders.3. Entrepreneurs are not comfortable with online

process.4. Weaving capacity remain unused in non-season

period. They need orders from major textile cen-ters like Bhiwandi, Malegaon, Ichalkaranji etc.

5. Unable to produce quality products due to oldtechnology.

6. Satisfied with traditional products like handker-chief, turban etc.

7. Unable to get membership in textile parks.8. New generation is not willing to take up the busi-

ness.9. Need guidance in fabric processing problems.

A professional link was established between workingPeople, Entrepreneurs and Industry. The program wasarranged in association with Department of TextileTechnology, SGGS Institute of Engineering & Technol-ogy, Vishnupuri, Nanded. Dr. P.G. Solankar & Dr. R.N. Joshi Honorable Secretory, TAIMU coordinated theprogram.

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)Central Office

We have temporarily shifted to69, Vishnu Prasad Building, Room No.1, 1st Floor,

Opp. Ovenfresh, Ranade Road, Shivaji Park,

Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028 India

Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971,

E-mail : [email protected],

Website : www.textileassociationindia.org

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TAI Marathwada Unit organized Textile IndustryInstitute Meet

The Textile Association (India) MarathwadaUnit(TAIMU) and Department of Textile Technology ofSGGSIET & T Nanded jointly organised Textile Indus-try Institute Meet (TIIM2019) on December 21, 2019at SGGSIE & T Nanded.

The main theme was 'Textile Industry in MarathwadaRegion- Overview, issues and solutions and Interactionof industry professionals, entrepreneurs and students.The participants were 30 top professionals of textileindustries from RIL Hazira and Silvassa; Sanathan Tex-tiles; Beekaylon Synt Pvt. Ltd.; Jacob Muller; FilatexIndustries; RIICON,Surat; Indorama, Nagpur; PBMPolytex and 35 local textile entrepreneurs and 90 stu-dents of Department of Textile technology.

The dignitaries on the Dias were President of Func-tion- Dr. Y. V. Joshi (Director, SGGS), Chief Guest-Dr. Hemant Sonare (Past Chairman ,TAI), Mr. ArvindPahurkar (President TAIMU & MD Simplex), Mr.Umesh Aundhekar (Chairman TAIMU, DirectorRaipdue Tech), Dr. R. N. Joshi (Secretary TAIMU,Coordinator) Dr. P. G. Solankar (Treasurer TAIMU)and Dr. A. K.Chakraborty (HOD).

On this occasion, the student chapter of TAIMarathwada Unit and Alumni Directory 1991-2019were inaugurated by Mr. Umesh Aundhekar and Mr.

Arvind Pahurkar. Dr. Y. V. Joshi (Director) has ap-pealed to Alumni to interact and connect one to onewith the students for career building. Dr. Hemant Sonarehas given the 'Road Map for Textile Industry inMarathwada Region' and promised to extend the coop-eration for setting up Textile Industry. Dr. R. N. Joshiannounced that TAIMU will become the InformationCentre for Textile Policies, schemes for micro and smallentrepreneurs.

The local entrpreneurs have raised the major issues forgrowth of Textile Industry are lack of sizing and pro-cessing facilities, old technology, high labor cost, lackof Information about government schemes and poli-cies. The panel members Mr. Prakash Kadtan, Mr.Arvind Pahurkar, Mr. Kshitij Deshpande, Dr. HemantSonare, and Dr. P. G.Solankar have concluded thesolutions like bulk purchase of raw material, support &help for processing of cloth in Bhiwandi, centralisedmarketing, product optimisation, Technology upgradation,TAIMUs role as an Information centre, start-up ofplug & play Industry like garmenting, knitting.

Mr. Chetan Chopkar, Mr. Anirudh Mardikar, Mr. ShaileshDeshpande, Mr. Milind Palmwar, Mr. Gokul Pawarhave interacted with the students on different topicslike career building, Entrepreneurship Opportunities inTextiles, overseas Opportunities.

Dr. R. N. Joshi was Coordinator for this event.TEQIPIII and TAIMU have supported financially tothis event.Dr. R. N. Joshi, was the Coordinator forTIIM2019

TAI - Marathwada Unit

SUBSCRIBE TO

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION

For more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)Call: +91-22-2446 1145,

Mobile: +91-9819801922

E-mail : [email protected], [email protected],

[email protected]

Website : www.textileassociationindia.org

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Domotex, the world's largest trade fair for floor cov-erings, will take place in Hanover from 10 to 13 Janu-ary 2020. Saurer Twisting Solutions is looking forwardto welcoming customers and visitors at their BoothB35 in Hall 11.

CarpetCabler

CarpetCabler

Automation solutions made to measure for pro-cessing BCF yarnsAt Domotex, Saurer Twisting Solutions will presentcustomer-optimised solutions for process automation andproduct cost reduction. Automation of the materialtransport systems offers significant customer benefits.This is because these systems are individually adaptedto the needs of our clients and enable an optimummaterial flow throughout the entire twisting mill. Whetherin the form of a lifter in combination with our rail

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Automation - a key theme for Saurer TwistingSolutions at Domotex 2020

transport system Flex Flow or the automated guidedvehicle Pack Drive, the modern automation solutionsoffered by Saurer are the next step into the future.

Easier and faster with new machine generationThe new generation of our carpet yarn machine, ourCarpet Cabler Carpet Twister 1.10, offers an optimumof possibilities for reliably and confidently masteringeven the most unusual requirements of a lively market.

Central adjustments of almost all production param-eters, an intuitive user interface and the newly de-signed take-up area significantly reduce the machine'schangeover times. Modern drive technology and inno-vative yarn sensor technology for monitoring the yarnquality generate significant added value for our cus-tomers.

Process control with Saurer Mill ManagementSystem SensesThis digital system bundles and analyses production,quality and performance data across all divisions. Evenmachines from third-party manufacturers can be man-aged. Plan deviations, quality fluctuations or irregulari-ties are thus detected in real time, enabling mill man-agers to react quickly. They can also use the sum ofthe data to analyse processes comprehensively in or-der to find opportunities for optimisation.

The Saurer exhibition team is looking forward to wel-coming customers and visitors at the Domotex 2020and to informing them about the latest developments.

Media relationsGerdPoehlmannSenior Vice President, Sales & MarketingSaurer Technologies GmbH & Co. KGTwisting SolutionsT + 49 2151 717 [email protected] ApffelstaedtVice President, Product ManagementSaurer Technologies GmbH & Co. KGTwisting [email protected]


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Birla Cellulose, (www.birlacellulose.com) of USD 44.3Billion Aditya Birla Group, one of the global leaders inman-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF), has emerged asthe top company for eliminating endangered forestsfrom its supply chain in the environmental non-profitCanopy's 2019 Hot Button Ranking and Report.

"The Aditya Birla Group firmly believes and advocatesagainst the concept of undertaking half-hearted effortsand the same is reflective through the quality of workthat it undertakes. It is because of this firm belief ofours that we have been successful in achieving a greatranking in Canopy's Hot Button Ranking and Reportfor the third consecutive time and we solemnly pledgeto strive towards achieving and establishing higherbenchmarks in the years to come," Dilip Gaur, Busi-ness Director - Global Pulp &Fibre Business andManaging Director - Grasim Industries Ltd., a flagshipcompany of Aditya Birla Group.

Canopy's Hot Button Report evaluates the global pro-ducers of viscose and ranks them on the sustainabilityaspects of their raw material sourcing practices. Thecriteria of ranking include protection of ancient andendangered forests, innovations in alternate raw mate-rial developments and supporting global forest conser-vation solutions. The viscose producers are inspectedand awarded 'green buttons' based on parameters suchas completion of CanopyStyle audits, contributions toforest conservation, using new alternative fibres, woodsourcing that promotes sustainable forestry, social ac-countability related to forestry, transparency and trace-ability.

It is heartening to see the broad impact of Canopy'sinitiatives that more than 200+ brands, retailers and

BIRLA CELLULOSETops inn its Commitment to Sustainable Sourcing

designers have committed towards protection of an-cient and endangered forests and sustainable forestryby working on their sourcing policy of viscose prefer-ence to viscose producers with higher ranks in the HotButton report. This is positive development and wouldlead to sustainable forestry practices by the textileindustry, protection of forests and its net positive growthplay an important role in mitigating climate changeimpacts. Viscose comes from the nature and goes backto the nature as it is fully bio-degradable, producedusing closed loop manufacturing it is among the mostsustainable choice of fibre for textile applications.

Birla Cellulose has developed innovative technologiesto recycle pre-consumer wastes that has immenselybenefited actively taken part in the movement ofusingalternate means of raw material for the genera-tion of its products and has been immensely beneficialin successfully catapulting the company to the highestspot in the market.

Birla Cellulose utilizes an extremely efficient producttraceability system which makes it possible to tracethe source of fibre across its value chain, this can helpconsumer select a more sustainable fabric.

Leadership in Canopy's 2020 Hot Button Ranking isanother testimonial of our goal to be a leader in theSustainable Business Practices and it is the endeavourto continue our work in this direction.

Link to The Hot Button Report:https://hotbutton.canopyplanet.org/company/aditya-birla/

For further details visit www.adityabirla.com andwww.birlacellulose.com

India's leading Expo on premium Chinese products, 7thedition China Homelife and Machinex India 2019launched in Mumbai.

◆ More than 1500 exhibitors from China, displayingover 25,000 products.

◆ Conferences, Presentations and panel discussions

China Home lifeand Machinex India 2019gets an overwhelming response from industry

to discuss and deliberate on wide ranging industrytopics

◆ Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) is theNational Partner for this exhibition and will beorganizing China-India Economic Forum

China Homelife/ Machinex', the much awaited three


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day (11th-13th December 2019) trade show organizedby Meorient International - Shanghai, commenced atthe Bombay Convention and Exhibition Centre, Mumbai.

Day One of the trade show was inaugurated by Shri.Sunil Rane, MLA - Government of Maharashtra; Mr.Sunil Khanna, Past Chairman, Maharashtra State Coun-cil & President and MD, Vertiv India.; Ms. JaneKarkada, Regional Director - Western Region, CII;Mr. Ashish Vaid, President IMC Chamber of Com-merce & Industry.; Mr. Siddharth Shenoy, President,Bombay Industries Association; Mr. Xu Qinshan -Deputy Secretary General of Hangzhou MunicipalPeople's Government; Ms Liu Xiaohong - Investigatorfrom Bureau of Commerce of Anhui Province.; Mr.LuoLinfeng - Deputy Head of Xiaoshan District ofHangzhou Municipal People's Government; Mr. XuLijun- Section chief from Wenzhou Bureau of Commerce;Mr. Tang Guocai, Consul General, Consulate Generalof the People's Republic of China, Mumbai; Mr. EricPan CEO, Meorient.

China Homelife India, in its bigger avatar, will repre-sent products like: Furniture, Textile & Garments, HomeAppliances, Household Items, Gift Articles, LuggageBags and many more; whereas, China Machinex Indiawill show: Building Materials, Hardware and Tools,Lighting, Auto Parts, Machinery and various othersectors. The twin exhibitions will witness a tremendousresponse from the industry with participation of morethan 1500 exhibitors from China, displaying over 25,000products spread over 3 halls spanning over 38000 sq.mtrs of the exhibition area.

Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) as the nationalpartner for this exhibition, will be organizing China-India Economic Forum on 11th December 2019 con-current to China Homelife India & China MachinexIndia 2019, which will see participation from the Cap-tains of the Indian Industry.

The objectives of this forum are deepening bilateralrelations, enhancing the economic engagement andexploring various trade opportunities between India andChina. In addition, the expo will hold 3 mini Confer-ences which will include series of presentations onspecialized industry topics were India-China TextileCooperation; India-China Machinery Cooperation; In-dia-China Electronics Cooperation.

CHINA HOMELIFE AND CHINA MACHINEXINDIA 2019 continues to focus on the increasing tradeand building sustainable relationships between Chineseand Indian companies to congregate and conduct busi-ness. Spread over three days, CHINA HOMELIFEAND CHINA MACHINEX INDIA 2019 will witnessseveral exciting partnerships and announcements thatpromise to augur in new trends in the industry.

Mr. Eric Pan, Chairman, Meorient said "We are de-lighted to be the organisers of India's largest eventshowcasing Chinese trade, which would lay the foun-dation to choose the latest technologies for our futureneeds. China Homelife/ Machinex' provides companieswith the exposure to meet industry stakeholders, indus-tries experts, who can present innovative technologiesthat can help grow trade between the neighbouringcountries. Apart from providing a platform to show-case their products and innovations, the Trade Fair alsopresents the opportunity for participants to networkwith potential business experts."

Mr. Binu Pillai, COO, Meorient said, "We marvel atthe way China Homelife and China Machinex India,has grown to be the most influential event in the cor-porate landscape, with the Indian business communitythrowing open its doors to Chinese trade. We havealso provided a platform for an Indian business delega-tion to meet with Chinese Government officials. Welook forward to the 7th edition of the Trade Fair break-ing new grounds, with three days of high intensitybusiness deliberations."

The Trade Fair was well received by the industry atlarge with support from Associations in FMCG andCore Industry such as Association Of Furniture Manu-facturers & Traders (AFMT); Bombay IndustriesAssociation (BIA); Indian Chamber of InternationalBusiness (ICIB); Indian Merchants' Chamber (IMC);Global Textile Welfare Association (GTWA); India TechFoundation (ITF); Jamnagar Chamber of CommerceIndia (JCCI); Luminaires Accessories ComponentsManufacturers Association (LACMA); Marathwada

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Association of Small Scale Industries and Agriculture(MASSIA); Nashik industries & Manufacturers Asso-ciation (NIMA); Pen and Stationery Association of India(PSAI); Plywood Welfare Association of India (PWAI);South Indian Education Society(SIES)

Their members get fast track entry into the exhibition

and priority meetings with top Chinese manufacturersand witnessed participation from prominent industrykey leaders. The Trade Fair is a part of a World Seriesof events sponsored by the Government of China andalso takes place in 11 other countries every year suchas Poland, South Africa, Egypt, Turkey, Kazakhstan,Nigeria, Brazil, Mexico, UAE, Jordan and Kenya.

China's largest agricultural drone maker expects todouble its sales next year as the government pushesfor the creation of bigger farms that will require moreof the technology.

XAG forecasts domestic sales volumes to rise to 50,000drones in 2020 from about 25,000 this year. The dronesare used for seeding, fertilising and spraying pesticides.More farmers are transforming their small plot of landinto large farms. That makes drones more popular.

China's political leaders are encouraging smaller farm-ers, which make up the majority of the rural landscape,to consolidate and become part of large-sized collec-tive farms in a bid to improve efficiency in food pro-duction. The shift follows some 288 million farmerswho have moved to cities to seek better paying jobs,leading to several empty villages.

Chinese super farms may boost sales ofagri-drones tremendously

One area of China's rural land reform is to allow fami-lies to rent out their contracted land to large companiesor cooperatives for large-scale operations. By the endof 2018, more than one-third of contracted land handbeenhanded over to bigger operations. One area ofChina's rural land reform is to allow families to rentout their contracted land to large companies or coop-eratives for large-scale operations.

We've seen a big decrease in the rural population,especially as the younger generation are leaving thecountryside for cities. We have to find a solution forfarmers to produce better food for our urbanizationdemand.

XAG is also launching a self-driving utility vehicle, whichis about 20% cheaper than drones, and aims to expandits business to villages where small household farmerscan easily learn to use the vehicles.

The ground vehicle can be used in fruit gardens andcrop fields in the north of the country where land isflatter.Chinese government subsidies for farmers purchasingthe company's products should also boost XAG's sales.Subsidies cover about one-third of the cost of the dronesand vehicles.

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Three Day programme from 19th, 20th & 21st De-cember 2019, commencing with B2B meetings forexclusive delegation of women entrepreneurs from 4African Nations looking at sourcing from India, kickstarted the Celebrations for India ITME Society. ThisB2B event was attended by 52 Indian Companies with462 meetings during the day including interaction withIndian Institutes & Associations resulting in business &MOUs for student faculty exchange programme andalso a promise for out bound delegation from India toUganda. International Trade Centre (ITC), organizedthis 1st time initiative of bringing an all women delega-tion to India in Partnership with India ITME Society.For the Society, completing its 40th Year of service,this activity was a step towards supporting womenempowerment by encouraging entrepreneurship in Tex-tile Sector.

Apart from Business, this 1st time overseas delegationwere also treated to a special Heritage walk of GPOorganised& initiated by Ms. Swati Pandey, PostmasterGeneral, Govt. of India.

African Delegates from Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda &Rwanda at the B2B Meetings

African Delegates from Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda &Rwanda at the B2B Meetings

Among the activities offered to the betterment of theindustry & for enhancing the quality of Education inTextile Engineering, a special Technical session wasorganized by India ITME Society. The technical pre-sentation on "Digitization and sustainability - Two driv-ers for the textile industry" by Dr.-Ing. Yves-SimonGloy, Adjunct professor in Clemson University & RWTHAachen Institute of Textile Technology, Germany waswell received by the academic community, attended by180+ faculty & students from various Institutes like,VJTI, ICT, DKTE, SNDT, NIFT, Kushal Institute,Bangladesh Textile Institute etc. Dr. Prof. JosphatIgadwa Mwasigi, MOI University, Kenya, alumni ofPSG College of Engineering, Coimbatore also madepresentation & discussed collaboration with Institutespaving way for new partnership in sharing knowledgebetween India & Kenya. This also shall create avenuefor students to explore placement opportunities withmultinational companies functioning in Africa.

India ITME Society is not only about Textile & TextileEngineering, but functions as a culturally consciousorganization promoting all aspect of India as a tradi-tionally rich nation. To showcase rich textile heritageencaptured in our Postal stamps, India ITME Societyorganized philately exhibition for the invited guests frompan India & across the globe. Ms. Swati Pandey,Postmaster General, (Mumbai Region), Govt. of India,made a scintillating presentation on "History of IndianPostal Service", educating audience about the servicesrendered by the Indian Postal Department even in thetoughest of the tough conditions & how India Postplays a part not only in our heritage but also in our dayto day lives even in today's digital times.

A student receiving certificate at the hands of JusticeShri. P. Sathasivam, Former Chief Justice of India &

Former Governor of Kerala

Facilitating Trade & Cementing Friendships atIndia ITME Society's 40th Year Celebration

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Every invited guest, whether from India or overseashad a take away from India ITME Society's 40th yearprogramme. The various Textile & Textile EngineeringAssociations renewed their collaboration with IndiaITME Society through MOUs & also shared theirexperiences, suggestions & way forward to improvetrade relations with their respective countries&organisations in a highly interactive Global Connectsession in the afternoon session. The panel of speakersconsisted of Industry leaders from India & across theglobe.

L to R: Mr. Ketan Sanghvi, Hon. Treasurer, India ITMESociety, Mrs. Doris N. Kessie, Textiles And Leather Of

Association Of Ghana Industries (AGI),Mr. Faruque Hassan, Hon. Consulate of Greece in

Bangladesh & Past Senior Vice President, BGMEA,Mr. Richard Salvatore MBE, General Coordinator,

TEMSAD, H.E. Mr. DemekeAtnafuAmbulo,Consul General, Consulate General of the FDR of

Ethiopia, Mr. S. Hari Shankar, Chairman India ITMESociety, Mr. Krishna Chinniah, President Botswana

Textile Clothing Association (BTCA),Mr. Govind Venuprasad and

Country Manager for India, ITC.

H.E. Ms. Dorothy Tembo Deputy Executive Director,International Trade Centre, UN, spoke about impor-tance of Strengthening Bilateral Trade Relation withNeighbouring Countries.

H.E. Ms. Dorothy Tembo Deputy Executive Director,International Trade Centre, UN

A memorable picture of Speakers & Guests during the40th Year celebration for India ITME Society

The evening celebrations continued into a glitteringprogramme which was attended by Dignitaries, Diplo-matic Missions, Govt. Officials, Industry Stalwarts,International& Domestic Media, presided over by Shri.P. Sathasivam, Former Chief Justice of India & FormerGovernor of Kerala, as the Chief Guest, H.E. Ms.Dorothy Tembo, Deputy Executive Director, Interna-tional Trade Centre, UN, as the Guest of Honour, andMs. Swati Pandey Postmaster General, Govt. of India,as Special Guest.

A Stamp commemorating 4 decades of "SpearheadingInnovation with Commitment to Quality" was released

by Ms. Swati Pandey in presence of Shri. P. Sathasivam,Former Chief Justice of India & Former Governor of

Kerala (Chief Guest) & H.E. Ms. Dorothy Tembo,Deputy Executive Director, International Trade Centre

(Guest of Honour)

India ITME Society extended the mood of celebrationfor both young & old, across the social & businesssegments. Certificate of merit & a cash prize of 1500USD (1 Lakh INR) were awarded to the winners ofthe contests organized by India ITME Society in vari-ous categories.

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Outstanding Contribution to Industry Growth & SocialImpact By An Association - Bhagamunda TRCS Ltd.

Best Digital Adoption By An Industry Association -Jodhpur Handicrafts Exporters

Women Empowerment through Entrepreneurship -Ms. Kuni Dehuri

Women Leadership Textile Engineering Sector -Ms. Khushi Palkhiwala

Technical Know How for Textile Engineering Industry -Ms. Trupti Khedekar

India ITME Society acknowledged the contributions &expressed gratitude to the Stalwarts of the Industrywho mentored growth of India ITME Society over thelast 4 decades.

Shri. Narendra Shah, Past Chairman

Shri. G.T. Dembla, Past Chairman

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Shri R. Anand, Member ofManagement Board

Shri R. Venkatrangappan, Past Vice President &Advisory Council Member

Smt. Ramaben Parekh, Wife oflate Rasik Parekh, Past Chairman

The evening brought together people from differentwalks of life, countries and culture, in knowledge, inbusiness, in comradeship concluding the celebrationswith live musical performance "Pristine Harmonies."

MsSeema Srivastava, Executive Director, India ITMESociety said that the road ahead shall be as challeng-ing, as unpredictable, but India ITME Society shallcontinue to pursue and strengthen its capabilities tolead the Textile Industry & Textile Engineering to fur-ther heights through its ambitious and unique initiatives.Humility of Action, Integrity of Purpose and transpar-ency of Conduct will be the key traits driving IndiaITME Society's growth and journey forward.

A good father is one of the most unsung yet one of themost valuable assets in our society.Every father triesto leave a lasting mark on his children. Legacy isn'tconfined to a will or an inheritance, it is what a fathergives them in terms of support, wisdom, character, andfaith. And when it comes to handing over business,every father nurtures his children with his best knowl-edge and acumen.

Bhilwara province, Rajasthan, India, has witnessed threesuch prime examples of highly successful fathers pass-ing on their trade secrets to their sons. Nitin Spinners,Sudiva Spinners and Lagnam Spintex, all highly re-nowned spinning mills were formed by fathers and arenow looked after by their sons. In all three ventures,one thing which is common is - brand Truetzschler.

Father-Son legacies trusts Truetzschler

L to R:Dinesh Nolkha, R L Nolkha, NitinNolkha

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The creative approach to supercharge your brand


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Visionary leader and Chairman Mr. R. L. Nolkha is aprofessional with an experience of five decades andworked with prominent groups like BSL and RSWM.He was also the CEO of LNJ Bhilwara group formore than two decades. He founded Nitin Spinners in1992 as a launch pad for Mr. Dinesh Nolkha, who hadjust completed his Chartered Accountancy. Starting witha humble beginning of two open ends, today NitinSpinners stands tall with an enormous capacity of 3lakh ring spindles, 3500 rotors, 63 knitting machines,168 air-jet looms with 200 tonnes per day production of5s to 80s yarn counts. In 2002, the second sonMr.NitinNolkha who is a Management Graduate alsojoined the board as an Executive Director. With morethan 19 Years of Industrial experience, Mr.NitinNolkhalooks after procurement of materials and implementa-tion of projects.

Mr. R.L. Nolkha happily remarked that "We are highquality manufacturer of yarn and do not believe incompromising quality on any parameter". We needed"the best possible technology partner and Truetzschlerperfectly fitted the bill."

The relationship which started in 1997 with the pur-chase of DK 740 cards continues with TC 10 cards inour latest project. At present Nitin Spinners have 142Truetzschler cards in all their units. Mr. DineshNolkhasaid that "Since Truetzschler is the preferredsupplier for many reputed spinning mills, they shouldfurther enhance their core strength and continue toexcel in their product domain and offer end to endsolutions in Sliver Preparation".

Nitin Spinners which recently forayed into Blends optedfor the T blend from Truetzschler. Mr. Dinesh Nolkhapraised the Blending technology of Truetzschler. Hesaid "It gives us more flexibility to produce differentblends with the highest precision and lowest CV%."By combining a sharp focus on sustainable profitabilitywith innovative products, the father-son trio have cre-ated a name for Nitin Spinners in more than 60 coun-tries covering five continents where their yarn is ex-ported.

J. C. Laddha and Varun Laddha

Anand Mangal and D. P. Mangal

Elsewhere one of the doyens of the Indian textile in-dustry Mr. J. C. Laddha, had similar plans for his son.Mr. J. C. Laddha has a vast experience in the textileindustry from 1973 having worked with the RSWMgroup in the highest capacity. He already knew theadvantages of Truetzschler machines as he was instru-mental in setting up / modernising the various units ofRSWM during his long stint at RSWM.When in 2006Mr.VarunLaddha returned from USA, after completinghis higher studies, he had a choice of joining a com-pany or starting his own company. Fuelled by his ex-tra-ordinary commercial knowledge and technical ex-perience, Mr. J. C. Laddha guided him in setting up hisfirst venture- Sudiva Spinners.

Mr. Varun, now a first-generation entrepreneur explained"Out of ring spinningand open end, I opted for OEprocess as my first project because it required rela-tively lesser capital investment. However to get thebest quality yarn with highest productivity, we opted

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Texttreasure

"There is only one thing stronger than allthe armies of the world: and that is an ideawhose time has come."

- Victor Hugo


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for the best in class machinery from Truetzschler".

At present Sudiva Spinners has about 74,000 spindlesand 2208 rotors producing counts ranging from 6sNeto 40sNe having per day yarn production of 80Tonsand 8Tons of knitted fabric. The latest project whichwas commissioned in 2018 was one of the first spin-ning Unit in India to opt for the latest "TC15 Cardswith T Move and Jumbo cans". Today, the unit hosts59 Truetzschler cards commissioned in 3 differentphases. By focusing on product development and tak-ing calculated risks, Mr. Varun has ensured that SudivaSpinners not only dominates the domestic yarn marketbut is an impeccable supplier of yarn to more than 32countries around the globe.

The charismatic and tech savvy Mr. D.P.Mangal wasthe Executive Director of Rajasthan Spinning and hasan experience of more than 40 years in the textileindustry. He along with his son, Mr.AnandMangalfoundedLagnamSpintex in 2011 with four open endmachines having 1920 Rotors fed by Truetzschler pre-paratory machines.Mr. Anand Mangal completed BSC(Honors) in Business & Management Studies fromUniversity of Bradford, UK. He has also worked withICICI Bank from June-2006 to Mar-2011. Since 2011he is working as Managing Director of the companyresponsible for production, marketing, purchase andadministration of the existing textile facilities.From thebeginning Mr. D.P.Mangal was very clear to have thelatest technology machines in his plant. So, it was nosurprise that when they went ahead for expansion planfor 25,536 spindle plant in 2018, they opted for thelatest TC 10 cards with the T-Move and Jumbo Cans.According to Mr. Mangal, Truetzschler's innovative T-Move and Jumbo Can Concept has provided them with

greater benefits and improved process efficiencies,against a standard coiler solution. Presently, LagnamSpintex has production capacity of 35 tonnes per day,out of which an astounding 50% goes for export withthe yarn count ranging from 6 Ne to 30 Ne.

In a very shortspan, by harnessing the opportunities,Lagnam Spintex emerged as a manufacturer of qualityyarn for both domestic as well as export market.Lagnam Spintex is one of the fewspinning mill in theworld to be certified by Uster, for producing top-qual-ity open-end yarn. Lagnam prides itself in producingyarn of highest quality with Productivity & safety at alllevels.

When asked about the current scenario of the textileindustry both Mr. R. L. Nolkha andMr. D. P. Mangalshowed their concern over the disparity in domesticand imported cotton prices caused due to the MSP.Mr. Varun Laddha on the other hand, voiced his con-cern over different states offering different powertariffs, which gives lower margins for manufacturersin states, which have dearer power supply. He de-manded a One Country One Tariff regime.

When asked about A.T.E., Mr. Dinesh Nolkha remarkedthat over the last decade A.T.E. has grown as a com-pany by bringing the most advanced and required tech-nology to the Indian market. Mr. J. C. Laddha echoedhis thoughts and said that A.T.E. understands the needsof the Indian customers and provides the right solutionthrough principals like Truetzschler.

Looking at the trust bestowed by the esteemed cus-tomers it is fair enough to say that "It's TrueIt'sTruetzschler."

India's leading Expo on premium Chinese products, 7thedition China Homelife and Machinex India 2019launched in Mumbai.

During the exhibition, India China Textile Co-operationForum was organized on 11th December 2019 atMatchmaking Lounge of Hall No. 1 at Bombay Exhi-bition Center, Goregaon, Mumbai.

The Forum began with Mr. Arvind Sinha, PresidentGlobal Textile Welfare Association and Past President

India China Textile Co-operation Forum

of The Textile Association (India), who set the tonewith his speech made a presentation on Indo-ChinaTextile Business - A Review and talking about meritsof collaborative approach between India and China.He also mentioned China has come up with a big wayas far as textile and apparel industry is concerned.

Taking largest pie of the industry on total trade and thegrowth phenomenon, which has happened in past threedecades. Gradually they have increased their stakeand reached to this stage.

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During his presentation he mentioned many examplesof Indo-China mutual co-operation and also expressedStrength China has and the areas where Indo-ChinaRelationship can benefit each other. China has hugemanufacturing capacities while India has large trainedmanpower and also established labour laws, a veryestablished legal systems, large population base etc.

Indo-China has lot of similarities and therefore Indianeeds co-operation with China in TechnicalTextiles,Textiles for Agriculture, Automobile Industry,Transportation Industry, and Defense where develop-ment can take place for mutual benefits for both thecountries.Both the countries are controlling approxi-mately 50% textiles world trade. Taking largest pie ofthe industry on total trade and the growth phenomenon,which has happened in past three decades. Graduallythey have increased their stake and reached to thisstage.

Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO of M/s SuvinAdvisors Pvt. Ltd, while speaking on his topic 'Possi-bilities of joint collaborations, importers of Textile Ma-chines, Dyes Stuffs and Fabric from China' said thatwe Indians have to accept China as a "big brother."

He also stressed on the point that there is no cultureof dedication and commitments towards work in IndianTextile industry hence we lack in efficiencies. We needto have collaborative approach in between two coun-tries to achieve common goals. He stressed upon fur-ther stating that India has it's large strength of process-ing cotton based products in the international markethence India can supply cotton based technical textiles,hand loom products, grey fabrics to China. Similarly,China can supply high quality garments back to India.

China also excels in digital printing& machinery manu-facturing as well as creating huge scale of economyand appropriate large size infrastructure. There can bearrangements of such bilateral trade in between thetwo countries. As far as machinery sale is concerned,both the countries have good scope for various ma-chines for e.g. China is very strong in sewing, embroi-dery, digital printing & weaving machines along withsome wet processing machines whereas India is strongin spinning machines and some processing machines.

Mr. Mayekar also said that both countries should un-derstand their strengths and weaknesses and acceptwhatever is required to benefit both countries. Mr.Manish Daga who owns brand Cotton Guru informedabout the importance of cultivation of clean cotton,what things needs to be done and how India is pro-gressing in this particular field and both the countrieshave opportunity to close on the entire world.

The panel discussion on the topic 'Importance of Indo-China Textile Co-operations' includes panelist like Mr.Avinash Mayekar,MD & CEO Suvin Advisors; Mr.Subhash Bhargav ,Chairman & Managing DirectorColorant; Mr. Manish Dagga, Managing Director, Cot-ton Group and Dr. Hemant Sonare,Group Director forWanjari Group of Institutes along with Mr. Arvind Sinhaas the moderator.

On India China Cooperation possibilities According toMr. Manish Daga, China is exporting thousands of itemsto world & India whereas India exports very few itemsto China.

Being similar climatic conditions & crops to grow arealso similar, but China has capitalized on the economicsof strain and also on research, development and valueaddition. India needs to learn this from China. Indiahas benefit of availability of raw material, skill sets andlow labour cost. India & China should join hands to-gether with their strengths.

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Mr. Subhash Bhargav said that India & China alto-gether is having 1/3rd of world's population. China'seconomy development is in two digit for last so manyyears whereas India's economy is developing with singledigit.

Also chemical market is progressive in India and Indi-ans are very good in having quality of effluent treat-ment plant manufactured, control and disposal of dyesand chemicals. He further added China as well asIndia are facing social and environmental issues andhence both countries can come together to sort theissues.

Dr. Hemant Sonare was impressed that discussion wason cooperation instead of comparison between India &China. India has strength of cotton based products andcomplete value addition can be done in India. He fur-ther added if Quality from India & Quantity form Chinacollaborates, these two countries will be driver of worldeconomy. Mr. Sinha told that the China is having hugemanufacturing capacities which are running at 45% -50% only. If utilization increases by 7% - 10%, half ofworld production will stop.

CONCLUSION:

The session was concluded by giving momento's to allspeakers and panelists as a token of appreciation.

Mr. Arvind Sinha moderator of the panel concludedthat there is a huge scope between India and China formutual co-operation, already trade is going betweenboth the countries and this can multiply many folds.Textile is everyday opportunity, innovations are every-day and therefore India and China has to share theirstrengths for the benefit of each other.

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India always recognized China as big brother and there-fore there is no reason why we should not come to-gether for mutual co-operation and go for technologytransfer and improve manufacturing base, there is hugeopportunity for Chinese Machine Manufacturers to cometo India and sell machines, there is a big scope forestablishing large fabric process houses.Any improve-ment in the technology is very well acceptable in Indiaand for any differences both the countries must comeand discuss to resolve. There is lightly big scope forboth the countries and they could decide how to pro-ceed faster?

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Texttreasure

The proper use of science is not to conquernature but to live in it

- Barry Commoner


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USTER®in-process inspection for tightly-spacedproduction lines

Fabric manufacturers serving critical applications needquality that is both precise and secured. But in thetypical nonwovens process line, space is always at apremium, making it tough to fit suitable automated in-spection systems which deliver these requirementseffectively. The USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION Ninspection technology solves the problem, with custom-ized solutions designed to slot neatly into tightly-spacedproduction units - at the same time ensuring light con-ditions allow the best detection results and reliable datafor optimal first quality yield.

USTER offers quality solutions suited to nonwovenspremium segments.In textile applications from fiber tofabric, USTER expertise is already appreciated world-wide. Now the nonwovens communityis recognizingwhat has been acknowledged in the spinning industryformore than 70 years. Expert knowledge in yarn quality- including controlling all kinds of contamination - isnow extended to fabric and nonwovens quality assur-ance. This is based onthe know-how of EVS, a world-leading high-technology supplier of automated visioninspection, acquired by USTER in 2018.

USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION Nfabric inspectionnow represents a second solution for nonwovens - alongwith USTER®JOSSI fiber cleaning systems - support-ing the unique 'Think Quality'approach of USTER.

Automated in-process controlConsistentlyhigh rates of defect detection, to guaranteereliable quality,are required by fleece manufacturers.USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION Nensures this, byusing automated control during intermediate inspection.USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION Nlocates any visiblefaults objectively and consistently. Defects in every rollare located and recorded, at normal line running speeds.

USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION N stands for seam-less integration of an inspection system into any pro-duction process - and ideally into nonwovens manufac-turing lines -detecting holes, irregularities, contamina-tion and any other defect. The installation is easy andflexible: a fixture bar bridges the full width of the pro-cess line holding as many spectroscopes as requiredfor the application. The sophisticated spectroscopes of-

Integrated quality assurance for nonwovens

fering best monitoring conditions for the inspection. Toguarantee optimal defect detection in combination withthe spectroscopes, various light sources are integratedin the installation - all customized and perfectly suitedto mill light conditions.

The systemmay be slim and compact, but it deliversbig-value benefits for the operator. USTER®EVSFABRIQ VISION Nprovides real-time alerts, showingall defects and automatically creating roll inspectioncharts. All detected faults are collected in an albumreview. Here, the operator can quickly mark faults andselect which can be deleted. Users can set their ownquality standards for different types of nonwovens,increasing the efficiency of the grading process - andfinally delight the customers with consistent quality.

Optimized yield for manufacturers"USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION N offers manufac-turers significantly improved first-quality yield, for allapplications," says John Belew, USTER Vice-Presi-dent for fabric inspection. The combination of a fullmap of fabric defects and the cut optimization modulemeans more first-quality rolls can be produced and badquality taken out.

USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION N leads to total fab-ric quality assurance, and major advantages for pro-duction security and profitability. "Our customers aimfor confidence in delivering the right quality to strengthencustomer relationships. With USTER® fabric inspec-tion systems, they can guarantee quality complianceand protect their business," says Belew.

Contact for journalistsKathrin NiedurnyMarketing Content & Communication ManagerUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 108610 UsterSwitzerlandPhone +41 43 366 3889Mobile +41 79 895 [email protected]

For other media-related requests, please contact:[email protected]

International Business News

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US-China trade deal possible before end of year:White House adviserA senior adviser to President Donald Trump said onMonday that a US-China trade deal was still possiblebefore the end of the year, adding that the first phaseof the agreement was being put to paper, reportedReuters."Sure," White House adviser Kellyanne Conway toldreporters when asked if a deal were still possible thisyear to address some trade disputes between the world'stwo largest economies.US President Donald Trump on Monday said US leg-islation backing protesters in Hong Kong did not maketrade negotiations with China easier, but added hebelieves Beijing still wants a deal with the United States.

Manufacturing activity expands at fastest pace inalmost three years: Caixin surveyThe rate at which China's manufacturing activity isgrowing rose to its highest point in nearly three yearsin November, driven by rising stocks of purchased itemsand stronger job creation, a Caixin-sponsored surveyshowed Monday.The Caixin China General Manufacturing PurchasingManagers' Index (PMI), which gives an independentsnapshot of the manufacturing sector's operating con-ditions, rose further to 51.8 in November from 51.7 inthe previous month. Though the rate was only margin-ally higher, it marks the strongest expansion sinceDecember 2016.The Caixin PMI is one of the earliest available monthlyindicators of economic conditions in China and is closelywatched by investors. A number above 50 indicatesexpansion, while anything below 50 points to contrac-tion. Manufacturing accounted for nearly 30% ofChina's gross domestic product in the first nine monthsof this year, according to data from the National Bu-reau of Statistics.

Russia launches gas pipeline to ChinaRussia has begun gas supplies to China via the Powerof Siberia pipeline, the largest gas project in its historyand a symbol of Moscow's diplomatic pivot towardsBeijing at a time of worsening relations with the west,reported the Financial Times.Dubbed "the contract of the century" by Russian gasgroup Gazprom, the $55 billion deal with China's oiland gas major CNPC will eventually allow for 38 bil-lion cubic meters in annual gas supplies to China via

International Business Newsthe 3,000km pipeline that crosses Siberia to the Chi-nese border in the south-east.The pipeline will allow Gazprom to significantly increasegas exports amid declining demand and gas prices inits traditional export markets of Europe and Turkey,which buy on average about 200 billion cubic meters ofgas a year. Work on the pipeline began shortly afterthe US and the EU introduced the first Crimea-linkedsanctions against Russia.The two leaders launched the project via video, Rus-sian president Vladimir Putin from Sochi and China'spresident Xi Jinping from Beijing. "This is truly a his-toric event, not only for the global energy market, butfirst of all for us, for Russia and China," Putin saidfrom Sochi. "This step takes Russia-China strategicenergy relations to a new quality level and brings uscloser to reaching the goal set together with Xi Jinpingto raise mutual trade turnover to $200 billion by 2024."

China's Zijin Mining to buy Canada's ContinentalGold for $1 billion amid security riskChina's Zijin Mining Group has agreed to buy Cana-dian miner Continental Gold for C$1.3 billion ($1 bil-lion), but a top executive with the target company saidelevated security concerns in Colombia pose a risk tothe deal, reported Reuters.State-backed Zijin's offer for Continental, announcedon Monday, aims to secure Continental Gold's flagshipBuritica gold project in Colombia."Zijin doesn't have any experience in Colombia, andwe have obviously had some incidents in the past,"Continental Chief Financial Officer Paul Begin toldReuters. "But if a major security incident happened atany project, it would be considered a material adversechange and they would have an out if they wanted to,"he said.Zijin's cash offer of C$5.50 per share represents nearlya 13% premium to Continental's Friday's close.Continental's shares were up nearly 10% in Mondayafternoon trading in Toronto.

CBD oil sold on China's e-commerce platformsraises regulation concernsProducts containing cannabidiol oil, an essential part ofmarijuana, can be found on China's three major e-commerce marketplaces, even though consumption ofmarijuana is illegal in the country.Search results for cannabidiol oil, commonly known asCBD oil, on Alibaba Group's Taobao, JD.com and

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Pinduoduo show multiple sellers offering "US-imported"or "authentic imported" cannabidiol oil, claiming theirproducts can help with sleeping, depression, inflamma-tion and even bone growth and cancer-fighting, re-ported Caixin.Unlike the US, where the recreational use of cannabisis legal in many states, China strictly bans the use andsale of cannabis, even calling the legalization of mari-juana in Canada and parts of the US a "new threat toChina," sparking a spike in the amount of drugssmuggled into the country.Some sellers on the e-commerce platforms know theyare operating in a gray area and try to avoid problemsby posting disclaimers. One seller on JD.com says inthe product description that the cannabis oil is broughtinto China through overseas channels. Once buyersconfirm their orders, no claims can be made regardinglabels, origin or inspection reports, or on the groundthat foreign products do not comply with China's lawsand regulations, the seller says..

China's economy set for more pain in 2020 asgrowth forecast sinks furtherChina's economic growth could drop below 6% nextyear for the first time since 1990 as the world's sec-ond-largest economy continues to be affected by thetrade war with the US and cooling infrastructure in-vestment, UBS Wealth Management forecasts, reportedCaixin.Real gross domestic product (GDP) is set to increaseby just 5.7% in 2020, according to Hu Yifan, regionalchief investment officer and chief China economist atUBS Wealth Management, a unit of Switzerland-basedbanking group UBS AG. That compares with an esti-mated 6.1% in 2019 and would mark the third straightannual slowdown.China's GDP growth slipped to 6.6% in 2018 from6.8% the previous year, and was 6.2% year-on-year inthe first nine months of 2019, the National Bureau ofStatistics said in October.Hu isn't the only analyst forecasting sub-6% GDPgrowth in 2020. Nomura Holdings Inc., Goldman SachsGroup Inc. and Moody's Investors' Service estimateexpansion of 5.8%. Morgan Stanley is a little moreoptimistic, with a base case scenario of 6%, althoughits economists say growth could slip to 5.9% if thetrade war worsens and the property market slumps,and could fall as low as 5.3% in a worst-case scenariowhere trade talks with the US break down and moretariffs are imposed by Washington on Chinese goods.

US-China trade deal 'stalled because of HongKong legislation': AxiosTop Chinese bank regulators moved to defuse growingunease in the country's $40 trillion banking system aftertwo small lenders were hit with bank runs in less thantwo weeks, reported Caixin.In a briefing on Tuesday, three senior officials of theChina Banking and Insurance Regulatory Commission(CBIRC) pledged to contain liquidity risks among thecountry's thousands of smaller banks. They addressedincidents involving Yingkou Coastal Bank in northeast-ern Liaoning province last week and Yichuan RuralBank in Luoyang, Henan province, in late October.The regulators attributed the runs to false online ru-mors and sought to restore confidence on the lenders.The world's largest banking system has been rattledthis year not only by those two incidents but also byearlier crises at three other banks."The banking industry is very sensitive," said Liu Rong,vice department chief of city commercial banking atthe CBIRC during the briefing in Beijing. "We shouldimprove the mechanism of liquidity risk managementfor small and medium sized lenders and fend off sys-temic financial risks."

China's factory activity unexpectedly returns togrowth in NovemberFactory activity in China unexpectedly returned togrowth in November for the first time in seven months,as domestic demand picked up on Beijing's acceler-ated stimulus measures to steady growth, reportedReuters.But gains were slight, and export demand remainedsluggish. With China's economic growth cooling to near30-year lows and industrial profits shrinking, specula-tion is mounting that Beijing needs to roll out stimulusmore quickly and more aggressively, even if it risksadding to a pile of debt.The Purchasing Managers' Index (PMI) bounced backto 50.2 in November, its highest since March, China'sNational Bureau of Statistics said on Saturday, abovethe 50-point mark that separates growth from contrac-tion on a monthly basis.The result compared with 49.3 in October. A Reuters'poll showed analysts expected the November PMI tocome in at 49.5.

Chinese vice premier stresses all-out efforts inrestoring hog productionChinese Vice Premier Hu Chunhua on Saturday un-derscored restoring hog production and ensuring thesteady supply of livestock products by every means,

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reported Xinhua News Agency.China must ensure stable pork supply in key periods ofearly 2020, including the Lunar New Year holidays inJanuary and during the annual National People's Con-gress in March, Xinhua cited Hu as saying at a meet-ing on animal husbandry on Saturday.Millions of pigs have died or been culled due to theAfrican swine fever outbreak in China and other Asiancountries such as Vietnam. The disease has slashedChina's pig herd by as much as half since August 2018,US agribusiness firm Archer Daniels Midland Co saidin November.The ravaging of pig herds in the world's top pork markethelped to drive China's consumer price index (CPI) up3.8% year-on-year in October, the fastest increase innearly eight years. Pork prices more than doubled inannual terms in October, according to China's statisticsbureau, accounting for over 60% of the CPI rise.

BMW and Great Wall begin work on electricvehicle factory in ChinaGermany's BMW has broken ground for a new fac-tory to produce battery-powered Mini cars in China,forging ahead in its partnership with domestic manu-facturer Great Wall Motor despite a slowdown in the

world's largest electric vehicle market, reported theFinancial Times.The partnership is the latest of several between Chi-nese and international automakers focusing on EVproduction in response to rapid growth in China's newenergy vehicles, or NEVs, a category that includesboth hybrids and fully electric models.That growth has stalled in recent months after thegovernment curbed subsidies for both buyers andmanufacturers. The partnership with Great Wall wouldhelp bring down costs for electrification, especially forsmaller cars, BMW chief financial officer Nicolas Petertold the Financial Times. Reducing such costs was theindustry's "number one challenge".International automakers have been left trying to bal-ance the risks of overestimating growth in China's NEVmarket against the government's push for a fifth ofChinese car sales to be NEVs by 2025.

For your information, please contact:Compiled & Sourced byMr. Arvind SinhaPresident 2018-2020Global Textile Welfare Association

Mr. Sumit GuptaDeputy Director

Standards Development & Quality AssuranceGlobal Organic Textile Standard

Profile:Mr. Sumit Gupta is M.Tech. &B.Tech., asustainability professional in the field of Textile Pro-cessing. He has 11+ years of experience in Eco-Fash-ion, RSL, Chemical Compliance, Sustainability Man-agement, Social Compliance, Technical Certifications,Eco-Labels, Content Marketing and Consulting. Cur-rently, he is working with German Standard Organisation- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) as their'Deputy Director Standard Development & QualityAssurance' and also 'Representative in India &Bangladesh'.

Face2Face - Interview with Mr. Sumit Gupta

As Deputy Director, he supports the company for in-ternational activities related to Standard Revision, stan-dard comparisons, supporting GOTS Approved Certifi-ers, and various other activities related to progress andinterpretation of the standard. As Representative, hisrole involves creating more interest and awarenessabout 'Organic Textiles' at the level of producers, ex-porters, retailers, educational institutes & consumers.His role also involves liaison with media, tradeorganisations and government. He has presented invarious international conferences, seminars, colleges andcompanies and has been extensively working towardscreating awareness about importance of Chemical RSL,Traceability, Social & Environmental compliances intextile industry.

Mr. Gupta has previously worked with Hohenstein IndiaPvt Ltd, which is the official testing body for Oeko-Tex Standard 100 in India. Before joining his Master'sdegree, he worked for a year in production departmentin Aarti International Ltd.

He was awarded with Charter Colourist (C. Col)by

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Society of Dyers and Colourists, UK and Associateship(ASDC) by Society of Dyers and Colourists, UK. Alsoawarded with Gold Medal in B.Tech.,being the Univer-sity Topper in Textile Technology Department of PunjabTechnical University, Jalandhar.

Q.: Sir, you are Textile Graduate, so how andwhere you have started your career?Ans.:I completed my B.Tech in year 2006. I wasawarded Gold Medal for being the University Topper.I started working in production department of AartiInternational Ltd after graduation. After one year, Ijoined Institute of Chemical Technology (formerlyUDCT) for M.Tech.

Q.: Can you walk through the memory lane andshare with us about your memorable journey af-ter passing M.Techfrom ICT, Mumbai?Ans.:Two years of M.Tech.,from ICT were spent inintensive studies and research. I had the opportunity towork under the guidance of Prof. Dr. MD Teli. Thesestudies further prepared me for the industry. I was alsoawarded the Mrs. Asha KhemaniMemorial Best Stu-dent Award in Textile Department.

Post M.Tech., I joined Hohenstein India Pvt Ltd, theofficial testing body for Oeko-Tex in India. I had theopportunity to start their Ahmedabad office and leadthat office. In March 2012, I joined Global OrganicTextile Standard (GOTS).

Q.: Give us a brief introduction of Global OrganicTextile Standard(GOTS) and are there any inno-vations or changes in criteriain your Standardstime to time?Ans.:Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is theworld's leading standard for processing of textiles madefrom organic fibres. The standard includes ecologicaland social criteria, backed up by independent certifica-tion of the entire textile supply chain.

GOTS versions are released every three years. Cur-rently GOTS version 5.0 is implemented worldwide.GOTS Version 6.0 is scheduled to be released in April2020. Every new version of GOTS is a result of acomprehensive stakeholder input process. Various in-ternational organizations with expertise in organic pro-duction, chemical manufacturing, textile processing andsocial criteria participate in the revision process. Itfollows the overall approach of GOTS to define highlevel verifiable environmental and social criteria.

Q.: What is GOTS Certification and how it isassigned to implement the quality assurance sys-tem?Ans.:GOTS certification is done through approvedCertification Bodies (CBs). CBs are assigned with theimplementation of the GOTS quality assurancesystem(GOTS Certification). GOTS approved CBs arelisted on our website.

CB will verify adherence to all aspects of GOTS cri-teria during on-site inspection of a textile processingunit. Non-conformities, if any, must be cleared within60 days. Besides, testing of product for hazardoussubstance residues, drinking water quality, wastewater,etc. On-site inspection for chemical input suppliers isnot included in current standard, but it might be in-cluded in future.

Q.: How does it helps to your licensees?Ans.:There are numerous ways in which companiesbenefit from becoming certified to GOTS. Some ben-efits are it serves as comprehensive risk managementtool for entire supply chain. Furthermore, it sets strictand extensive environmental and social criteria. Addi-tionally, as a part of GOTS requirements, they work onimproving energy and water use efficiencies in theirrespective operations, leading to improvement in pro-ductivity. Sustainability innovation adds value over con-ventional products.

Social and environmental conformance is necessaryfor the whole facility for the whole year, irrespectiveof number of organic orders processed in a year.Companies can communicate to their respective buy-ers about their commitment to sustainability by meansof their GOTS certified status. This leads to increasein credibility of their claims as well as possibilities ofgetting bigger orders from reputed brands.

Q.: What are your requirements or the condi-tions to obtain GOTS certificate?Ans.:Besides use of minimum 70% organic fibers,GOTS mandates processing of organic fibers in anenvironmentally and socially responsible manner.

Chemical inputs like dyes, inks, pigments, auxiliaries,enzymes, etc. must be approved prior to being used forprocessing of GOTS goods. The approvalprocessincludes testing for hazardous substance, bio-degradability and toxicity requirements. Finished textileproducts are also tested testing for residues of hazard-ous substances.

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Wastewater must be treated prior to discharge and thedischarged water must meet further standardguidelines.Similarly, there are guidelines for solid wasteand air pollution. GOTS criteria also includes ban onhazardous processes like sandblasting and ammoniatreatment.

The section of social includes ban on child labour, forcedlabour, excessive overtime, etc. Besides, provisions forhealth & safety, fire safety, building safety, etc. mustbe in place.

Q.: How can certified entities get permission touse GOTS logo?Ans.:The facility applying the label must formally askits Certification Body for label design approval.Uncertified retailers can ask their suppliers to get the'Label Release' from its respective Certifier. The art-work of the GOTS label must include GOTS logo, labelgrade, reference to certifier and license number. Aconsumer can verify the license number of GOTS PublicDatabase.

Q.: Can you let us know about the latest techno-logical innovations taking place in GOTS?Ans.:GOTS has launched "GOTS Monitor (Water/En-ergy)" to help the licensees monitor their water/ energyconsumption and compare it with global benchmarksfor their fabric/ shade/ machinery type etc. GOTSMonitor W/E also gives "Cost of Inefficiency" in finan-cial terms. This helps the manufacturers to analysetheir present situation. This also acts as a positivemotivation to upgrade their processes to match theglobal levels. If the results are used to upgrade theprocesses involved, this can also act as a tool to en-hance competitiveness in the international race. GOTSMonitor W/E is free to download and use for all GOTSlicensees.

Q.: How GOTS observes Social Compliance intextile fields?Ans.:GOTS hasdetailed criteria for social compliance(Section 3.0). If refers to relevant ILO conventionsthat are compulsory for all processing and manufactur-ing stages. Operators must establish social compliancemanagement tools that support the implementation andmonitoring of the social minimum criteria.

Companies must have a policy for social accountabilityto ensure that the social criteria can be met. Theymust support the implementation and monitoring of thesocial criteria.

Q.: How have you grown with a sustainable posi-tion in the global market?Ans.:As an organization, GOTS has always believed instrong partnerships since its inception. GOTS activelyengages with trade & consumer media, government,trade bodies and industry. As GOTS Representative inIndia & Bangladesh, I have been participating in sev-eral tradeshows, conferences, training programs, meet-ings and consultations across the country. Further, wesupport the stakeholders with several knowledge re-sources including videos, informational documents,factsheets and so on. We are released a factsheet oncorrect GOTS Labelling, which has been appreciatedby brands and industry alike. Another holistic factsheetexplains how GOTS helps to meet UN SustainableDevelopment Goals (SDGs). We are coming up withanother factsheet on control of chemicals in GOTS. Iinvite you to visit the 'Information Centre' on ourwebsite. It includes interesting information for bothindustry and consumers.

Q.: Who are the key customers globally and howis the Indian market?Ans.:As per Organic Cotton Market Report (OCMR)2018 by Textile Exchange, global organic cotton pro-duction has increased from 107,980 MT to 117,525MT. It registered a ten percent growth over last year.India's share in global organic cotton production was at51%. India retained its position as the world's largestproducer of organic cotton.

Top three countries that contributed to the global or-ganic cotton volume growth are China, Tanzania &Uganda. India's organic cotton production for the yearwas 59,470 MT.

According to OCMR 2017, top 10 buyers of organiccotton textiles were C&A, H&M, Tchibo, Nike, Inditex,Lindex, Boll & Branch, Woolworths, Williams Sonomaand Stanley/Stalla. Besides, there are more than 25international brands in the 100% Organic Club, whichmeans that they only sell organic textiles

As per 2018 data from GOTS, number of GOTS cer-tified facilities worldwide was 5,760. It showed anincrease of 14.6% as compared to 2017 data. GOTScertified textile processing facilities are in 64 countriesaround the globe. We shall be releasing 2019 data inMarch 2020. Stay tuned!

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Q.: Indian Government is supporting and grant-ing various incentives to the Textiles and Gar-ments. Do you have any expectations from Govt.?Ans.:Since much more investment, policy interventions,renewed interest by private and public seed compa-nies, and other stakeholder interventions are needed inorganic cotton farming sector, an Official Endorsementfrom the relevant authorities in Ministry of Textiles,Ministry of Commerce, APEDA and Director Generalof Foreign Trade (DGFT) will enhance GOTS' pres-ence in India and will be highly beneficial to environ-ment, society and organic textiles business in India.

GOTS is associated with QCI-UNFSS National Plat-form for Private Sustainability Standards in India andwe are engaging with various stakeholders through thatplatform. We shall also be working towards gettingrecognition for responsible public procurement.

Q.: In your opinion what will be overall future oforganic Textiles etc.Ans.:GOTS mission is that organic textiles become partof everyday life of consumers. GOTS is a textile pro-cessing standard that begins with the first processingactivity in textile chain, like ginning for cotton. It in-cludes stringent environmental and social criteria atevery processing step. In order to give a healthy life toour future generations, all of us must have a holisticapproach towards our working. We must address thetriple bottom line and work towards all the three as-pects- People, Planet and Profit.

Q.: How do you see market segment growing inthe next 5-10 years both locally and internation-ally?Ans.:The potential of organic textiles remainsunderutilized in global and Indian markets. We need toconsistently work together with media, NGOs, con-sumer organizations, retailers, designers and govern-ment to create more awareness in India.

Businesses must invest in social and environmentalinitiatives to reap long term economic benefits. Be-sides, close partnership and longstanding commitmentswith backward supply chain partners will lead to con-version of more land to organic and consistent supplyduring tough times.

Q.: At the end, what is your message to the In-dian entrepreneurs?Ans.:Domestic textile industry is undergoing a trans-formation, with sustainability and responsible luxurybeing the latest buzzwords. Scores of brands are of-fering organic textiles in Indian retail. More than tenbrands I know are selling 'certified' organic textileswith GOTS label in India. We are working to increaseboth the number of such brands as well as the vol-umes.

Having said that, as the largest producer of organiccotton and organic textiles, India continues to be theworld's most popular sourcing destination for organictextiles. Responsible production practices are good forthe planet and good for business at the same time!

Mr. Jay Shah, Managing Directorof Lakshmi Enterprises

VMS Fabrics Private Limited is a part of the well-known Lakshmi Enterprises, Ahmedabad, one of India'sleading trading houses for the supply of quality grey

Interview with VMS FabricsGeneral information on VMS Fabrics Pvt Ltd.

and dyed fabrics, which has been serving the Indiantextile industry for more than four decades. They weresourcing fabrics since 1985 from 75 of the best corpo-rate vendors in India. To meet their bulk requirementof quality fabrics, they ventured into manufacturingunder a new company, VMS Fabrics Pvt. Ltd., whichwas set up in 2016. VMS recently installed the new,cutting edge KARL MAYER Prosize sizing machinesto complement their Toyota high-speed air-jet weavingmachines.

In an interview with A.T.E., Mr. Jay Shah, ManagingDirector of Lakshmi Enterprises, exudes confidenceabout the growth and prospects of this manufacturingventure.

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A.T.E.: What are the key strengths of VMS Fab-rics that will ensure the success of this new ven-ture?VMS: We have been sourcing the bulk of the fabricswe require only from the leading manufacturers ofIndia. The new manufacturing setup will definitely boostour confidence and prosperity in the coming years aswe will be able to serve both domestic and export-related needs through our in-house produced qualityfabrics.◆ We use only the best quality yarns from the In-

dian spinners as per our buyer protocol, whichgives us the best output in terms of fabric qualityand loom efficiency.

◆ We have the best technical team in marketing andmanufacturing, which helps us meet the commongoals of the group, and we have the best ma-chines and working culture which assures the bestoutput from each of the resources we have.

All these strengths help us produce the best quality andcompetitive products, which ensures buyer satisfac-tion. We are committed to provide quality fabrics toour customers. We have repeated orders from ourexporters and have well-established clients outside India.We produce 1.5 million metres per month and are tar-geting 3 million metres by 2022. The growing demandand having our own set-up with state-of-the-art ma-chines will surely help us to grow fast in this competi-tive market.

A.T.E.: Ahmedabad has always been a hub forfabrics trading in India. Do you see this continu-ing?VMS: Yes, surely. There are many modern processhouses in Ahmedabad that offer quality fabrics in shirt-ing, dress material, denim, bottom weights, Lycra, etc.The requirement of fabrics by the process houses willincrease day by day and hence we foresee an overallgrowth in the weaving sector, as well as other areas intextile.

A.T.E.: You have been in the trading business fordecades. Could you tell us how the idea of thesizing project came up?VMS: As I mentioned, we have been sourcing thefabrics from almost all the leading weaving mills. Look-ing at the increasing demand from the process houses,as well as global challenges for fabrics such as risingprices, we thought that having our own manufacturingsetup, in addition to our trading business, would notonly help us meet our commitments to our customers,

irrespective of the market situation, but also make ourproducts more competitive globally. We set up the siz-ing unit to ensure backward integration and good qual-ity warp beams for our weaving unit.

A.T.E.: What made you opt for KARL MAYER'sProsize sizing machine?VMS: We had been sourcing grey fabrics from SouthIndia and other weaving centres where all our suppli-ers have installed KARL MAYER Prosize sizing ma-chines. All our suppliers are very happy with the per-formance of this machine in terms of high productivity,high quality warp beams, lowest wastage of yarn,optimum stretch control.

With reduced consumption of size chemical and otherutilities, the Prosize is cost effective as well. The warpbeams produced on the Prosize run smoothly on ourhigh-speed air-jet weaving machines, and achieve thehighest weaving efficiency compared to the beamsproduced with conventional sizing technology.

Keeping sustainability and growth in mind, we preferto go with new technologies and machines. If we wantto cater to the global fabric demand, we must have thebest machinery that can produce the best quality prod-ucts at competitive prices, to help us tap the interna-tional markets in future.

A.T.E.: What is the production you are able toachieve with Prosize sizing machine?VMS: We have selected the machine configuration toachieve the maximum production speed. With a speci-fied speed of 150 metres per minute for the KARLMAYER Prosize, and looking at the highest productionspeed achieved at all other installations of this ma-chine, we are hopeful of achieving a production speedof 140 to 150 metres per minute for all warp qualities.We commissioned the Prosize machine along with theKARL MAYER high speed direct warper in March2019. With this combination, we are running high speedweaving machines with the best installed efficiency inweaving units and can produce more than 12-13 tonsper day of sized warp. The good quality of warp beamshas helped improve the weaving speed. Our target isto produce 450 tons of sized warp per month with thismachine.

A.T.E.: Could you share your experience work-ing with A.T.E. as a business partner?VMS: We have known the A.T.E. team for a longtime. We have met them at our suppliers' places from

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where we source the fabrics and yarns. It was in onesuch meeting that the A.T.E. team convinced us to setup our own manufacturing unit. A.T.E. helped us notonly to decide the right specifications of the warp prepa-ration machines based on a wide range of weaving

qualities, but also the layout, and the finalisation of theutilities and other important requisites for the project aswell. We highly appreciate the timely support providedby A.T.E. and KARL MAYER.

KARL MAYER has opened a new R&D centrefor denim in Italy

L to R: Roland Kohn, President of the BU WarpPreparation, CEO Arno Gärtner and Enzo Paoli,

Managing Director

KARL MAYER ROTAL expanded its denim centre ofexcellence with an in-house show for its customersand celebrated at the same time the 50th anniversaryof its birth. There is now a brand new competence

KARL MAYER - Even more denim excellencecentre featuring a GREENDYE pilot installation, acad-emy, show room and meeting rooms in an area cover-ing 500 m². The expansion offers customers new op-portunities to make their production more efficient andsustainable, as demonstrated by an event programmethat included a factory tour, machinery show and spe-cialist presentations. Around 34 representatives frominternational customers accepted the invitation toMezzolombardo.

The guests were particularly impressed by the 13-metre-long pilot installation. The equipment is used to simu-late the environmentally friendly and efficient nitrogendyeing technology in real-life conditions on a scale of1:10. In addition, KARL MAYER ROTAL stands outthanks to its comprehensive service. "The customerscan come to us with their yarn. We dye and warp it,and working with our Italian partners, we then turn itinto woven fabrics that are comparable with previousproducts. Many guests were I was even able to dis-cuss some specific projects," said Stefano Agazzi, Chiefof Technology and Products, when summarising theevent's success.

KARL MAYER successfully participated in TechtextilIndia, held 20-22, November 2019 in Mumbai.

KARL MAYER's stand at Techtextil India

KARL MAYER used Techtextil India in order to show

KARL MAYER -Establishing and maintaining contacts

new warp knitting and warp preparation technologiesas well as innovative textile product developments. Atthe trade fair, this global player was present with alecture of its Regional Agent, A.T.E., held during theaccompanying symposium, and with a stand. Both pre-sentations met with great response. "The exhibitionwas smaller than expected but very well visited", saidMark Smith. The Sales Manager of KARL MAYER'sWarp Knitting Business Unit was able to welcomemany of his customers, and could establish new con-tacts also to non-technology-related manufacturers.

Important topics of his conversations were delicatemagazine weft-insertion net curtains patterned withfancy yarns, in woven-fabric look, and the appropriatemachines - the TM WEFT and the WEFT.FASHION

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TM 3. The conversation partners included many warpknitting companies that want to set up a second main-stay with home textiles, but also net curtain weavingmills in search of new product lines. In high demandboth by warp knitters and by weavers was the terrytricot machine, type TM 4 TS. Of particular interst inIndia is the possibility to produce towels with neat andsturdy edgings, thus, saving the edge seams.

Erik Junghans, Sales Manager of KARL MAYER'sBusiness Unit Technical Textiles, was also satisfiedwith the outcome of the trade fair. Especially duringthe Techtextil Symposium he was able to establish manynew contacts. Among the major topics of discussionwere textile products for the building industry. "In Indiathere is a considerable interest in textile-reinforcedconcrete. So far, no suppliers are on the market in thisrespect, but the national trade association, ITTA, wantsto promote developments in this field. We have thesuitable machines, but with our contacts to Germanresearch institutes we also want to give our supportaccordingly", explains Erik Junghans. He also witnessesa growing demand for warp knitted geotextiles in In-

dia. To increase the service life of roads, the govern-ment especially promotes projects with geogrids. Inaddition, on the KARL MAYER stand there was alively exchange on multiaxial machines intended for theefficient manufacture of composites made from glass.The lightweight materials are in special demand by thewind energy industry, for the rehabilitation of pipelines,and for the construction of cabins for buses and trains.

As third player in KARL MAYER's Business Units,the Warp Preparation BU successfully used theTechtextil India for networking opportunities.

Press releaseKARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbHBrühlstraße 2563179 Obertshausen

Enquiries:Ulrike SchlenkerTel. 06104/402-274Fax 06104/402-73-274E-Mail: [email protected]

Rapid ordering of spare parts - it's in your hands!An upgrade of the WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS plat-form is on the starting line

k.maintenance iPhoneX

KARL MAYER is expanding its WEBSHOP SPAREPARTS platform in order to support its clients in theirday-to-day operations even more effectively. With anumber of new functions, this online ordering platform

KARL MAYER GROUP - New information and developments

is now even more useful. This manufacturer is "beat-ing the publicity drum" even harder - to disseminatemore information about it. A new film was being pre-miered at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, showing thewebshop, together with its functions and advantages.The WEBSHOP was also celebrating a first for thewarp preparation sector at this leading trade fair. Itwas being successfully presented to clients with all theexisting functions, together with the web shops thathave already been installed. Webshops for the KARLMAYER's business units are also being presented atspecific trade fairs. The Webshop for Technical Tex-tiles was being promoted at the JEC World exhibitionin March 2019, which generated a great deal of inter-est.

Extending the online procurement of spare partsfor technical textilesThe WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS for Technical Tex-tiles began on a small scale in 2017, and has beenexpanding gradually ever since. By the end of 2018/19,the range covered more than 3,200 items - so it wastime for a relaunch.

The ordering platform, with specific actions, was pre-

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sented to a wide circle of customers and was verywell received. The webshop for KARL MAYERTechnische Textilien is now being used by customersfrom 13 countries. "We are extremely pleased, and weare increasingly expanding our spare parts business viaour webshop," said Jessica Schwabe from KARLMAYER Technische Textilien in July 2019. She founda new innovation, which was unveiled at ITMA, par-ticularly useful: this was the setting up of the centralaccess address, shop.karlmayer.com, which directs theuser straight to the webshop that has been made avail-able to him. Alternatively, he can select the webshopthat he wants to use via a landing page.

An upgrade that increases efficiencyIn the latest upgrade, the WEBSHOP SPARE PARTShas been extended by the ability to specify the deliverytimes. In addition to the standard delivery times, anadditional display now also gives information on thecurrent availability of selected items, as a function ofthe number of pieces required. This new function givesthe customer optimum support when planning his re-quirements. The WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS for WarpKnitting also offers some new functions that go be-yond the conventional procurement of spare parts. Thisextended feature relates to work on the machine op-erations of the customers on site. KARL MAYER haslinked service packages for standard applications tomeet the requirements of its customers. The focushere is on the mechanical and electrical work, whichcan be booked via a contact at KARL MAYER. Forexample, if a customer is intending to change the gaugeon his HKS machine, or if he is planning to update thesoftware, he can obtain information on the type andextent of the work and which person to contact in thewebshop under the heading of SERVICE Packages. Inaddition to the use of personnel on site, the packageincludes selected web seminars from the KARLMAYER online training programme. The cross-sellingfeatures have also been extended as part of the pro-cess for expanding the contents of the webshop. Thisnow contains even more cross-references to the asso-ciated products.

Easy access and switchingTo provide additional support, the procurement of spareparts has also been made more mobile. For example,the k.maintenance app from KM.ON allows directaccess to the WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS. This prac-tical app can also be used for the Scan-to- Order func-tion for simple ordering, and the Check Parts functionfor quickly checking the authenticity of the spare parts.

A special symbol in the delivery note enables a switchto be made easily from conventional ordering to onlineordering. Every product shown in the document, to-gether with its availability in the webshop, is markedby a shopping cart symbol. By specifying a code, sub-sequent orders can also be placed very easily using theScan-to-Order function. This practical symbol will soonbe transferred to other documents.

Maximising efficiency and halving lossKARL MAYER has developed 2"-guide units withseparable 1"-segments for maximum efficiency whenthreading the ground guide bars of its warp knittingmachines. These long units reduce the time needed forrethreading the guide bars compared to the current 1"-types, and they eliminate the disadvantage of the cur-rent 2"-units in the event of any damage. Previously,the entire 2"-unit had to be changed if there was adefect in a guide, but now just the 1"-section with thedefect can be removed easily and replaced separately.

Huge interest in a "breath of nothing"New developments in weft-inserted net curtains haveethereal grounds made from monofilament yarns intheir sights

Weftfashion04

Net curtains produced on warp knitting machines withmagazine weft insertion are the perennial "evergreens"in the window fashion sector. KARL MAYER is nowcoming like a breath of fresh air onto this establishedmarket segment, and is offering some specific newdevelopments. Its latest machine, the WEFT.FASHIONTM 3, can produce articles having an on-trend look inthe style of popular gauze-like fabrics made frommonofilaments and fancy yarns, yet it enables fabricsto be produced without sizing at a production rate that

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is 10 to 11 times higher than that of comparable looms.

The nature of the technology also means that the light-weight, transparent, warp-knitted fabrics have a highslip resistance. These advantages impressed the visi-tors at the last ITMA fair in June 2019 in Barcelona.

During this important trade fair, KARL MAYER wasshowing a collection of on-trend, weftinserted net cur-tains produced on the WEFT.FASHION TM 3, whichgenerated a great deal of buying interest. The Turkishvisitors in particular asked a great many questions.Encouraged by the positive feedback, the textile spe-cialists at KARL MAYER carried on with their devel-opment work, and processed fine monofilament ratherthan multifilament yarns on the warp knitting machinewith weft insertion. In the first stage, a lustrous yarnof dtex 22 was processed in all the yarn systems. Avery delicate, extremely transparent, feather-light fab-ric with an organza ground was produced, which weighsjust 20 g/m². Despite its ethereal look, the fabric isextremely stable and is suitable for embroidering. Thetextile developer, Kay Burkhardt, is particularly pleasedwith the look of the fabric. "We processed a verydense structure at 35 stitches/cm to produce an ex-tremely uniform appearance." When hanging in frontof the window, the net curtain creates a subtle inter-play with the light to produce shimmering, glittering andmoiré effects in all the colours of the rainbow. In sub-sequent development stages, a ground made frommonofilament yarns was combined with a weft madefrom different fancy yarns. Yarns featuring knops,nodules and crimps were processed and - what wasparticularly ingenious - a relatively thick yarn was used,which was first formed into a cord-like structure bypillar stitches. The optically dominant weft materialsalmost hide the ground. Completely new textile con-structions are produced, which will stimulate the trendfor net curtains with puristic-looking yet discreetly subtlepatterns.

Protection against gunslingersNew, lightweight aramid textiles - more protection thanweight

Aramid tapes during spreading

Biaxial aramid textile

same biaxial textile after bonding

Aramid fibre yarns are now widely used in technicalapplications. They are used in composites, for example,in hard ballistic systems, lightweight transport contain-ers and laminated, high-performance sails, but they arealso used in protective textiles - usually in woven tex-tiles - for clothing. Compared to glass and carbon fi-bres that are also used, the specific characteristics ofaramid yarns give them advantages that can be usedin a wide variety of applications - but these come at aprice. In particular, they have an exceptional impactresistance and energy absorption capacity. Unlike theversions made from carbon or glass, the aramid fibresare virtually undamaged by filament abrasion during

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processing. They can currently be processed on theCOP MAX 5 multiaxial warp knitting machine to pro-duce non-crimp fabrics with a degree of uniformitythat has never been achieved before. Fine, lightweight,channel-free reinforcing structures are produced foruse in applications requiring a high level of force ab-sorption, especially in new and lighter, soft ballisticsystems. We reported on the unique aramid structuresproduced on the COP MAX 5 in "Kettenwirk-Praxis",issue 02/2018. /1/ This article deals with the subse-quent development work.

Online spreading and fabric productionKARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH set up afar-reaching development project, entitled "COP MAX5 Aramid", for processing high-performance fibres onmultiaxial warp knitting machines. The aim of the projectwas to produce flat reinforcing textiles for compositeshaving a low weight and a uniform fibre distribution.The surfaces of the finished textiles should have adense structure, without any so-called laying channels.The fibre materials can be used to the maximum, thanksto their exceptional uniformity - which justifies the costof the aramid yarns. The TC 66 online spreading unitand the COP MAX 5 Aramid multiaxial warp knittingmachine were used to produce the new, lightweighttextiles. The spreading unit ensures that the aramidyarns are spread to produce thin tapes, which are fedto the COP MAX 5 Aramid at a constant tension. Themultiaxial warp knitting machine bonds the deliveredmaterial stitch by stitch to produce high quality, non-crimp textiles with a huge potential in the lightweightconstruction sector. The process runs discontinuouslybetween the machines. The aramid material has to becut following spreading and before laying.

Continuing work on the projectIn the first stage of the project, a new tape cutting unitwas developed as part of a thesis, which was specifi-cally designed for cutting aramid tapes. This new sys-tem could be used to produce single layer, non-crimpfabrics with a laying angle of -45° and a virtually chan-nel- free fibre arrangement, weighing just 120 g/m².The work on this stage ended in March 2018. Thethesis was awarded a classification of "very good" atthe Technische Universität Dresden (Dresden Univer-sity of Technology). The second stage of the projectinvolved extending the single fibre layer produced byanother layer running in the opposite direction. To dothis, the aramid cutting unit that had been developedwas further optimised and complemented by a secondunit. A new cutting unit was also added at the machine

exit point to remove the textile structures producedreliably from the transport chain.

Biaxial textiles with a unique potential for pro-ducing lightweight structuresThe second stage of the project resulted in the devel-opment of biaxial, non-crimp fabrics with laying anglesof +/-45°, which deliver a completely new level ofperformance for the lightweight construction sector.The reinforcing textiles have an exceptionally flat sur-face and a uniform distribution of the aramid fibres -since there are no wavy or twisted yarns. Comparedto conventional biaxial textiles produced on the COPMAX 4 or the COP BIAX based on a yarn layingprocess, the filaments have a much higher coveringpower. Intermediate film layers for compensating forchannels and irregularities are no longer needed withthe COP MAX 5 Aramid, so they are virtually a thingof the past. The fabric weight is also quite unique. Thenew textiles made from aramid tapes having individuallayer weights of 90 g/m² and yarns having a count of3,360 dtex with 2,000 filaments now weigh just 180 g/m². Up until now, aramid structures produced on theCOP MAX 4 or the COP BIAX from expensive yarnswith a count of 450 to 960 dtex could only be producedwith up to 200 filaments, which means that they wouldthen weigh 250 to 500 g/m². The COP MAX 5 Aramidtechnology also scores points in terms of costs: rela-tively coarse and economical aramid yarns can beprocessed into fine reinforcing structures, and there isless edge waste from the textiles. Compared to thesimple yarn laying process, the potential savings couldamount to thousands of euros a week!

Triaxial textiles are on the horizonThe developers at KARL MAYER Technische TextilienGmbH have hit the nail on the head with this newtechnology. This was clear from the reaction to thelatest results of the project at various trade fairs thisyear. The technology generated at great deal of inter-est - especially at Techtextil in Frankfurt and the JECin Paris.

Enquires came from producers and organisations in-volved in protective clothing, and especially soft ballis-tic protection. But clothing companies in search of asecond business opportunity were also keen to learnmore about it. "Our business partners describe the newbiaxial textiles as uniquely lightweight and uniform. Theysee a huge market potential for this new technology,and have encouraged us to take it further," says RainerSeuß, Product Management, and Composites. Ques-

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tions were asked in particular about the protectiveeffects of triaxial textiles for use in ballistic systems.For this reason, the technologists specialising in appli-cations technology would like to develop a non-crimpconstruction with laying angles of - 45°/90°/+45° foruse in effective systems having a low weight, whichwould be acceptable to the wearers. When talking topeople at the fair, Rainer Seuß discovered that, "Everykilogram saved in a ballistic jacket means that the soldierwearing it can carry an extra kilogram of equipment/supplies." Lightweight, thin, soft ballistic vests can alsobe worn discreetly yet effectively under the polo shirtsof security personnel. In this case, customers wouldexpect the aramid fabric to weigh 270 g/m². Alongsidethe developments made by KARL MAYER TechnischeTextilien, the fibre specialist, Teijin, has also been ex-panding the potential of aramid for use in lightweightstructures. Aramid yarns having a count of 2,000 dtexwith 2,000 individual filaments have been launchedrecently.

Electrifying sportswearKARL MAYER's smart shirt with integrated sensorsis opening up new applications

Since 2018, KARL MAYER has been developing highlyefficient technology for producing functional warp knitswith electrical conductivity under the concept ofTEXTILECIRCUIT and is, therefore, setting the trendin electronic wearables. The special feature of TEX-TILE-CIRCUIT is that conductive yarns can be incor-porated directly into the textile during the warp knittingprocess, and they can be positioned in any location andin any design. Functional elements, such as sensors,conductors and coils, can be placed exactly where theyare needed. No additional production sequences areneeded whatsoever, and the textile characteristics arefully retained.

T-shirt with measuring functions

Presentation of the smart shirt at the ITMA 2019

In the first stage of the development work, comfort-able cuffs for remotely controlling robots, and textilecharging stations for the inductive charging ofsmartphones were produced. A smart shirt with mea-suring functions was produced during a follow-upproject. This functional garment was effectively dem-onstrating the possibilities offered by TEXTILE-CIR-CUIT to a wide audience at ITMA 2019. It measuresthe heart rate, the moisture levels in the textile, and thetemperature of the skin. The sensors needed to do thisare integrated into the textile in a single step and trans-mit their recorded signals via an insulated conductorfor processing in a mobile electronics unit.

The results can be called up on mobile devices viaBluetooth. The values measured for a cyclist werebeing displayed impressively on a huge display at ITMA2019. As well as delivering functionality, this smartshirt also provides exceptional wear comfort. The flex-ibility of the conductive surfaces and the bi-elasticity ofthe fabrics deliver exceptional freedom of movement,and the textured polyamide filament yarns processedprovide a soft touch.

New market potentialThe performance of TEXTILE-CIRCUIT is openingup completely new market opportunities. "I talked tousers from a wide range of sectors during the courseof working on the project and attending trade fairs. Iwas surprised at the wide variety of ideas they cameup with for using our textile sensor systems," explainsSophia Krinner. This Product Developer, Textile Tech-nology, at KARL MAYER sees a huge potential forthem, especially in the sportswear, workwear andhealthcare sectors. Sophie Krinner also said that shehad had many enquiries about buying the conductive,warp-knitted textiles Encouraged by this feedback, sheis carrying on with her development work. Furtherstages will focus on improving the finishing of the tex-tile and optimising the sensor technology. More infor-mation on TEXTILE-CIRCUIT will be available onstand 408 in hall C2 at ISPO Munich, which is takingplace from 26 to 29 January 2020.

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The brand aims to lead the dialogue on sustainability inbeauty

After successfully establishing sustainable fibre brandssuch as TENCEL™ and ECOVERO™, Lenzing nowbrings to India its beauty and body care fiber brandVEOCEL™. Derived from renewable raw materialwood, VEOCEL™ provides natural care, every day,and is committed to driving industry standards aroundsustainability and natural comfort in the nonwovenssector. VEOCEL™ fibers are certified clean and safe,biodegradable, from the botanic origin, and manufac-tured in an environmentally responsible production pro-cess. With changing consumer habits, more and morenonwoven producers are shifting their product pipe-lines towards natural and eco-friendly materials toenhance product appeal and open more business op-portunities. Lenzing being a pioneer in innovation hashelped in fulfilling these needs through a more incorpo-rating VEOCEL™ fiber in a diverse range of prod-ucts.

Blending VEOCEL™ branded fibers with other fibersadds a greater degree of smoothness and absorbencyto nonwoven products and will significantly improvethe liquid absorbency in products like wet wipes, offer-ing a more convenient way to clean surfaces.VEOCEL™ brand offers a broad range of applica-tions that cater to daily use, including beauty, babycare, body & intimate care and surface cleaning.Consumer Applications such as face sheet masks, fa-cial cleansing wipes, deodorant wipes, baby wipes, handsanitizing wipes, intimate wipes, diapers, sanitary nap-kins, disinfectant wipes, etc. made using VEOCEL™branded fibers have distinctive features such as strength,absorbency, liquid management, biodegradability whilegiving additional features like comfort, cloth-like feel,and smoothness, making it a viable eco-friendly optionto choose from.

Worldwide efforts advancing towards eco-friendly plas-tic alternatives have skyrocketed in recent years, asdifferent stakeholders are eager to make a differencein their field of expertise. When it comes to personalcare products, fiber transparency becomes an impor-tant benchmark in determining the sustainability of

Lenzing debuts VEOCEL™ in India

products such as wipes and facial sheet masks. Thesoon-to-be-published European Union Single-Use Plas-tics Directive had identified wipes as one of the tenmost polluting items found on European beaches andcalls for clearer marking requirements, which shalldisclose the presence of plastic materials in wipes anddisposal options on the product packaging. This con-cern plagues India and as the country moves towardsgetting rid of single-use plastics by 2022, there wouldbe no better time than now for Lenzing to bringVEOCEL™ to Indian beauty and home brands. Withbrands currently using materials that are single-usageapplications and do not possess processes that reducethe ecological footprint, there is a need to bring aboutfiber options such as VEOCEL™ into the Indian market.Global beauty brands across Europe, USA, South East,and North Asia have now been using VEOCEL™fibres as part of their product range, making a changetowards sustainable living.

Commenting on this foray, Avinash Mane, CommercialHead - Lenzing South Asia said "2019 has been anexciting year for Lenzing. Earlier, we forayed in foot-wear with TENCEL™ and now beauty and body prod-ucts with VEOCEL™. We are confident that brandsand consumers will also welcome VEOCEL™ andappreciate the experience our fibers create. We willcontinue to drive innovation and transparency effortsin the nonwovens segment and work closely with in-dustry partners to co-create a more nature-friendlyfuture. Since the inception of the VEOCEL™ brand,we have been pioneering the development and applica-tion of sustainable nonwoven technologies and applica-tions. Promoting a circular economy will continue to bea key strategy of the Lenzing Group."

According to the Hot Button Report of Canopy, aCanadian non-profit organization, Lenzing is ranked asone of the best performing viscose producers world-wide for its sustainable wood and pulpsourcing prac-tices. Lenzing, as a nonwovens fiber producer andadvocate for sustainability, has taken an industry-firststep to enable consumers to make eco-consciouschoices.

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BackgroundJeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited is a textile pro-cessing house based in Tirupur, India. It currently hasa setup of 14 dyeing machines, the largest being an1800 kg soft flow machine and smallest being a 250 kgmachine. These machines require large quantities ofhot and cold water during initial filling and subsequentcycles.

2GP-EVM

ChallengesJeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited had designed afilling system with multiple pumps, which was func-tional but posed challenges during the initial filling. Theywere never able to fill all machines simultaneously. Toovercome this, the dyeing machines were staggered towork as per the pumps' capacities. They had also notexplored options to reduce filling time. This effectivelymeant that the mill could not optimise production fromthese dyeing machines.

The pumping system used by Jeyavishnu Clothing Pri-vate Limited to supply hot and cold water into the 14dyeing machines was resulting in filling times of be-tween 8 to 20 minutes. Based on the available capacityof pumps, Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited believedthat this was the best possible performance.

A study conducted by the A.T.E. team highlighted thatwhile the pumps selected were good, they were notoperating according to the logic of production demandresulting in sub-optimal performance.

The solutionAs recommended by A.T.E., Jeyavishnu Clothing Pri-

80% reduction in filling time for dyeing machineswith Tera FlowHyP systems!

vate Limited installed two TeraFlow hydro-pneumatic(HyP) systems each with a flow rate of 180 m³/hr.

TeraFlowHyP systems are always tailored to user re-quirements. They are made up of centrifugal horizontalor vertical pumps, pump logic controllers, and a dia-phragm tank which respond to any change in pressurethereby ensuring a constant flow to the desired pro-cess or processes.At Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Lim-ited, since the dyeing machines are of different capaci-ties, the demand for water varies. It is difficult to fore-cast a typical consumption pattern. Hence the systemneeds to be robust enough to manage variations indemand without adversely impacting the performanceor the life of the pumps.

ResultThe TeraFlowHyP systems resulted in a reduction inthe filling time per cycle by almost 80%. The fillingtime in first fill was reduced by more than 10 minutes.That is not all, the TeraFlowHyP systems offer someadditional benefits as well -◆ Reduction in filling time per cycle results in more

number of cycles per day◆ Variable Frequency Drives (VFDs) ensure maxi-

mum power saving and minimum wear and tearof pumps leading to longer pump life

◆ Automatic pump switch◆ Jeyavishnu Clothing Private Limited is naturally

quite pleased with the performance of A.T.E.'sTeraFlowHyP systems.

Mr.Balamurugan, Plant - General Manager, JeyavishnuClothing Private Limited says,"A.T.E. made it simple - We are quite happy replacingour old filling system with .A.T.E.'s TeraFlow hydropneumatic pressure boosting solution for tank fillingapplication in the dyeing process. The old system posedchallenges during the initial tank filling and also couldnot meet demand-supply equation resulting in sub-op-timal performance. A.T.E. TeraFlowHyP systemshelped to meet demand-supply equation and reducedthe filling time per cycle by almost 80%, reducing thefilling time by more than 10 minutes and ensuring aconstant flow throughout process.

Performance of A.T.E.'s TeraFlowHyP systems andprompt after sales services is satisfactory.

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SZ&W Group is organizing 'Textile and apparel SEASummit 2020', scheduled to be heldon March19-20, 2020in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Southeast Asia is playing an extremely important rolein textile and apparel industry. SEA has strong com-parative advantages for manufacturers (market access,low labor costs, investment incentives and existing in-dustrial basis). In the meanwhile, rising wages, un-skilled labor force and international completion are themain challenges. Textile and Apparel Industry is devel-oping rapidly in Vietnam, Myanmar, Cambodia,Bangladesh, India and other countries in Asia, amongwhich Vietnam is the leading country with rapid growth.Vietnam exports apparel and textile products to 180countries. Forecast shows the local textile and garmentindustry will maintain high growth potential until 2035with an estimated export turnover of about US$200billion.

Textile and Apparel SEA Summit 2020Aims to provide the opportunity for industry chain stake-holders to win textile and apparel business and ensuregrowth in SEA Region. It will grasp the latest oppor-tunity and trends, together with good practice sharing

Textile and Apparel SEA Summit 2020

to accelerate industry upgrade and development. Rel-evant high-level leaders will discuss the highlights onPolicy, Current Situation, Opportunities, Sourcing Strat-egy, Supply Chain Management, Raw Materials, Pro-duction, Technology Upgrade, Quality Assurance andSustainable Development.

Register NowIf not joined this event yet, book seats now and do notmiss the most influential textile and apparel summitcovering the SEA region.

Please checkTextile and Apparel SEA Summit 2019postreport to learn more about Textile and Apparel seriessummit.

For more details, please contact:Bruce ZhangSZ&W GroupTel: 86 21 5830 0710-8095Email: [email protected]: 86 18702167212Tel: 86 21 58300710-8095Website :http://szwgroup.com/textile-apparel-sea/

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THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATIONFor more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

Call: +91-22-2446 1145,

Mobile: +91-9819801922

E-mail : [email protected], [email protected],

[email protected]

Website: www.textileassociationindia.org


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◆ Lenzing has unveiled their latest REFIBRA™technology breakthrough, which features theindustry's first successful scaled production of vir-gin TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers using post-consumercotton waste.

◆ TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers with REFIBRA™ tech-nology now feature up to 30% of recycled rawmaterial content, where some post-consumer cot-ton waste is mixed with pre-consumer cotton waste.

◆ Lenzing's five-year vision is to raise the industrybar by producing fibers with REFIBRA™ tech-nology by having up to 50% recycled content frompost-consumer cotton waste to make textile wasterecycling as common as paper recycling.

Lenzing Group announced today another breakthroughfor its pioneering REFIBRA™ technology with theindustry's first successfulproduction of TENCEL™Lyocell fibers using post-consumer cotton waste aspart of the recycled raw material proportion.

Currently, REFIBRA™ technology feature theupcycling of a substantial proportion of pre-consumercotton scraps from garment production and mixing withvirgin wood pulp, to produce new TENCEL™ Lyocellfibers. In September 2019, Lenzing announced the first-phase of REFIBRA™ technology upgrade, by increas-ing the composition of pulp made from upcycled cottonscraps collected from garment manufacturing processto up to 30%. In the second-phase, amongst the 30%of recycled raw material content, Lenzing can incorpo-

Lenzing unveils REFIBRA™ breakthrough technologystrengthening their commitment

rate up to 10% of post-consumer cotton waste into themixture of recycled materials alongside pre-consumercotton waste. TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers withREFIBRA™ technology are produced on demand andcapacity can reach thousands of tons for both genera-tions.

"Our world's forests and climate need these kinds ofNext Generation Solutions at both scale and speed inthe cellulosic fiber sector. Canopy applauds Lenzingfor the vision of making textile waste recycling com-mon place and for launching this commercially avail-able product line with the first steps of post-consumerrecycled content," said Nicole Rycroft, Executive Di-rector of Canopy. "We look forward to Lenzing's lead-ership as they work to significantly increase the vol-ume of their raw material that comes from Next Gen-eration feed-stocks, and we know brands and retailersare looking to preference producers who hit the goalof a 50% post-consumer recycled fiber line first."

With growing interest around the concept of 'circulareconomy' across the globe, the scaled production ofTENCEL™ Lyocell fibers using post-consumer cottonwaste is a key milestone for Lenzing's pursuit to builda fully sustainable textile ecosystem.

The second phase upgrade of REFIBRA™ technol-ogy poses tremendous business opportunities and helpsdrive greater developments for circular economy.Lenzing believe that the growing adoption of recycledtextiles is an essential part of the fiber industry's futuregrowth strategy. Such frontier production model canhelp revolutionize the fashion industry and empowerbrands who are looking for eco-responsible textile valuechains. It is the vision of Lenzing to make textile waste

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recycling a common process like paper recycling.

Based on the UN Sustainable Development Goal (SDG)12, Responsible Consumption and Production, it isLenzing's clear vision to produce fibers withREFIBRA™ technology using post-consumer textilewaste as raw materials. Being able to use discardedgarments consisting of a wider range of materials willgreatly enlarge the raw material basis for textile recy-cling. This innovation is a groundbreaking step towardstackling the global issue of textile waste disposal. Atthe same time it reduces the extraction of wood as araw material and relieves the pressure on global forestecosystems. Our vision includes recycling of fabricsand garments from Lenzing's own materials. Lenzingis the first producer of wood-based cellulosic fibersoffering Global Recycling Standard(GRS) and theRecycled Claim Standard (RCS) offering perfect trans-parency for the materials used during production.

Produced in eco-responsible closed-loop productionprocess, fibers produced using REFIBRA™ technol-ogy are 100% bio-based. The fibers will also featureproperties of enhanced breathability through goodmoisture management, silky smoothness and strength.

By leveraging such innovative breakthrough, Lenzing

has been working closely with brands and industrystakeholders to pursue a more collaborative driving forcefor the transition towards greater inclusive and circulareconomic growth.

"For several years, we have witnessed a rise of eco-consciousness amongst consumers. Consumers havebeen demanding more sustainable product options intheir shopping list. If a company wants to truly improveits sustainability practice, it needs to reexamine itscurrent business model and consider introducing newproducts or technologies with recyclability and reus-ability in mind. At Lenzing, sustainability is part of ourDNA, and we will continue to stand at the industryforefront to assist businesses with the implementationof eco-practices in their operations," said FlorianHeubrandner, Vice President of Global Business Man-agement Textiles of Lenzing.

More information about the upgraded REFIBRA™technology can be found here.

For more information please contact:Rita NgMarketing Services Manager - LenzingPhone: (852)3718 5675Email: [email protected]

Promoted sustainable fabrics & innovative styles

Booth at Yarnex at Ludhiana

Liva, the new age fabric brand from Birla Celluloseparticipated in the 17th edition of Yarnex which washeld in Ludhiana from 20th-22nd December 2019. Beingone of the most successful textile fairs in Ludhiana, theshow witnessed 5400 visitors and participation of 90exhibitors. It was a huge platform to connect with thetextile value chain across the North India region.

Liva's participation in Yarnex Ludhianareceives overwhelming response

Liva along with its reputed LAPF partners showcasedinnovative products in knits, women's woven wear andstoles.

The Liva Pavillion witnessed participation from leadingLAPF partners Krishna Textile Process, Feather Soft,Galaxy Stoles & Alla Moda Knitwear. These esteemedpartners presented the latest innovative fabric collec-tions in Birla Spunshades and Birla Modal fibre. Thebrand received a positive feedback on the initiative ofenriching customers with new products knowledge alongwith support to players in industry to grow with LIVA.The LAPF partners also secured great business leadsfrom the exhibitions.

For more details, please contact:Ms Karishma PunjabiWhite Marque Solutions422/423, 4th Floor, Laxmi Plaza,Laxmi Industrial Estate, Andheri (West),Mumbai-400053

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On the completion of 25 years of meritorious servicesto the cause of promoting scientific and technologicalknowledge, The Textile Association (India) - RajasthanUnit celebrated its Silver Jubilee with great pomp andshow. To celebrate the event, a National Conferencewas organised on 17th August 2019 at SHRILOKRESORT, Bhilwara on the theme ''Textile industry-Opportunities and Challenges'' with a special focus onRajasthan. It was indeed a landmark occasion for TheTextile Association (India) - Rajasthan Unit.

Shri S. N. Modani lightening the lamp

Dr. B. K. Behera lightening the lamp

On the onset, Dr. Dhirendra Kumar Sharma, HonorarySecretary of the association welcomed all the presentguest and members for the program. He informed aboutvarious activities being under taken by the unit.Rajasthan Unit president Shri R. L. Nolkha informedthe audience about the role played by unit in variouscapacities during last 25 years. Shri SubhashjiBaheria,Member of Parliament,Bhilwara Constituency and ChiefGuest of the function applauded the various activitiesorganised by Rajasthan Unit Bhilwara. Shri Ladu RamBangur, Chairman,Kanchan Group of Industries andGuest of Honor for this function stressed need of suchplate form for helping the government in formulatingpolicies.

MLV Textiles celebrated its 25 Years of Togetherness

Shri ArvindVashishtha, Honorary treasurer of the as-sociation finally thanked to one and all who had con-tributed in making this event a memorable one. Specialthanks were extended to the organizing committeemembers, Shri J. C.Laddha, Shri Deepak Agrawal, ShriRajeev Jain, ShriMadhu Sudan Nuwal and Shri VijayAgarwal.

Dignitaries on the Dais

Dr. B. K. Behera is felicitated byDr. Dhirendra Sharma

Dr. B. K. Behera, Professor IIT Delhi, Shri S.N.Modani, MD,Sangam India Limited, ShriSanjeevIsraniand ShriGopesranjan Das from RIL, Dr. Rajesh Agarwaland Dr.Navdeep Kumar were some of the eminentspeakers in the Technical Session. A spectacular Sufimusic performance was also organized in the event. Itwas a great success by all standards. More than twohundred members gathered from all corners of India toparticipate in this Silver Jubilee Celebrations.

The celebration marked the glorious journey of last 25years. Unit is acquiring a new milestone in contributingto the growth and development of textile industries andplaying a major role in achieving the goals of TextileAssociation India.

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BCF S8 with CPC-T - color separation has neverbeen so easy.

OerlikonNeumag promises more flexibility in thecolor pat-tern design of carpets with the latestcarpet yarn system BCF S8 at DOMOTEX 2020in Hanover. All trade fair visitors can convincethemselves of the possibilities for product differ-entiation in Hall 11, Stand A36.

BCF S8 Tricolor

Multi-colored carpets are becoming increasingly popu-lar and the desire for significantly more flexible colormixing variants for product differentiation is increasing.OerlikonNeumag has focused on this and developedthe BCF S8, a platform that leaves nothing to be de-sired when it comes to the color separation of tricoloryarns - from mélange to strongly separate.

Over 200,000 different shades out of three colorsThe core component in this process is the new, patent-pending Color Pop Compacting Unit (CPC-T) for aneven more flexible and even color separation. Individu-ally controllable air pressures per color in the CPC-Tprovide a pre-tangling, which results in an accentuationof the colors and thus enables over 200,000 differentshades.

Color Pop Compacting also for PA6 yarnsUntil now, it was difficult to produce highly color-sepa-

Oerlikon Neumag at DOMOTEX 2020

rated or accentuated BCF yarns from polyamide 6, butin the future, this will be possible thanks to the CPC-T. Thanks to the new design, the CPC-T is now alsosuitable for processes with low thread tensions.

RoTac³ tangle unit with extensive modificationsSignificant technological changes to the RoTac³ tangleunit lead to even more efficient BCF yarn tan-gling.On the one hand, the nozzle has been optimised flow-wise so that the air pressure can be re-duced by approx.10% compared to the previous version with the sameknot strength. Furthermore, the nozzle bearing arrange-ments have been improved. As a result, either higherspeeds or nozzle rings with a higher number of holescan be driven, which results in even more knots in theyarn.

The RoTac³ is part of the standard scope of deliveryfor the newer BCF S8. The tangle unit isoptionallyavailable for the single-thread Sytec One plantas well as for the three-thread S+ and can beretrofittedon request.

Color separation with CPC-T (from left to right:mélange, color pop, one color separated)

Oerlikon Manmade Fiber solutions for PET car-pet applications now cover a range from 0.5 to30dpfIn addition to the BCF S8 technology described above,Oerlikon Manmade Fibers offers another systemconceptbased on a POY and texturing process. This configu-ration is designed for a carpet andhome textile productrange, which is based on a very soft and puffy poly-ester thread with BCF-likeproperties due to the smalldpf. The target is yarns with a titer up to a maximumof 1300dtex and typicallyover 1000 filaments.

Typical products are, for example, a 1300dtex f1152 or660dtex f1152 and990dtex f768.The machine conceptconsists of the well-known WINGS HD POY winderand the new eAFK Big-Vtexturing machine.

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Oerlikon has invited all visitors to this year'sShanghaitex inChina on a journey into the futureof manmade fiber production. From 25 to 28November 2019,the world market leader showedall its guests its vision of a sustainable and auto-mated manmadefiber production at its 100 m²stand in Hall E1, D20: "Clean Technology. SmartFactory." was themotto of the future. And thiswas only a stone's throw away from reality at thestand. Becausetoday Oerlikon was presenting thefour ITMA Barcelona world premieres for effi-cient machineand plant concepts in a new, inno-vative industrial design. Together with numerousother innovations,all this forms the new DNA ofthe Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

Launched to create new standards in texturing: theeAFKEvo generation of machines promisessuperiorspeeds, greater productivity and consistently highproduct quality, along with lower energy consumptionandsimpler operation vis-à-vis comparable market solutions.OerlikonBarmag showed these widerangingcapabilitiesat the trade fair with a high-end design from the newsystem platform. In particular,the numerous value-addedfeatures include two that are excelling with cool tech-nology: the optimizedEvoHeater and the EvoCooler, acompletely newly-developed active cooling unit.

WINGS FDY is now also newly available for thepolyamide 6 process. With this development, thetriedand-tested WINGS technology - to date well-known forFDY yarns from polyester manufacturing -isnow alsoavailable for the challenging polyamide 6 process. Thisnew 24-end winding concept makesthe efficient pro-duction of FDY PA6 yarns a reality.

Extending the polyamide yarn production from 12 to 24ends with DIO and WINGS FDY pays yarnproducersdividends, particularly in terms of investment expendi-ture (CAPEX) and operating expenditure(OPEX): sig-nificant savings with regards to energy, footprint and -due to the more ergonomicdesign - a rather convenientstring-up are among the WINGS FDY PA concept'smost convincing arguments.The enclosed draw unitensures low spin finish emissions, offering a safeworking environment.

Offering swift string-up, the optimized yarn path of thetried-and tested WINGS FDY PET system isunited

Oerlikon showed world premieres in China

with the high relaxing performance of conventionalpolyamide systems to create a completelynew con-cept. The 24-end WINGS FDY PA hence profitablycombines the benefits of both processes.The result:outstanding yarn properties, excellent dyeability, opti-mum process performance and high fullpackagerate. Aperfect package build guarantees excellent furtherprocessing properties in the downstreamprocesses. Witha 116-mm stroke, this winder makes high packageweights possible, thereforedelivering added-value yarnsfor further processing. As a consequence, yarn manu-facturers can givethemselves acompetitive advantagein the marketplace.

The BCF S8 production plant promises carpet yarnmanufacturers greater punching power withinaFiercelycontended market. Superlative spinning speeds,up to 700 filaments per yarn end, finer titersdownto 2.5dpf - the performance data and technological finesseof the new system already made animpression at itsunveiling at the German DOMOTEX trade fair inJanuary. At Shanghaitex 2019 themonocolor and thetricolor version of the BCF S8 was unveiled.

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Polyester and its applications are omnipresent in oureveryday lives. Whether as beverage bottles,filmpackaging, high-tech sports shirts or safety belts,polyester excels with its excellent mechanicalpropertiesand inexpensive production. However, theconstantly rising demand requires responsiblehandlingofglobal resources. For this reason, it is notonly 'virgin polyester' generated from crude oil that isexclusivelythe raw material for manufacturing, so toois polyester recycled from post-production andpostconsumerwaste. Processing production waste alsohelps cut raw material, disposal and transport costs,andhence increasing efficiency.

With the new VacuFil® recycling series, OerlikonBarmag in cooperation with its subsidiary company BBEngineering is offering a solution catering to a "cleantechnology" production philosophy. Decades of experi-

ence in the areas of extrusion, filtration and spinningsystems have been bundled into a new,nnovative corecomponent - the vacuum filter. It unites gentle largescalefiltration and controlled intrinsic-viscosity build-up forconsistently outstanding melt quality. The vacuum unit- located adjacent tothefilter - swiftly and reliably re-moves volatile contamination (spinning oil, etc.). Theexcellent degasification performance additionally relievesthe energy-intensive predrying process.

The modular structure of the VacuFil® range offersnumerous possibilities for the process guiding system.Whether as a standalone solution with downstreamgranulation or as an inline variant with 3DD additivefeed- customer requirements can be optimally catered forwith various system configurations.

For further information, please contact:André WissenbergMarketing, Corporate Communications& Public AffairsTel. +49 2191 67 2331Fax +49 2191 67 [email protected] LiMarketing, Corporate Communications andPublic AffairsTel. +86-21-5288 5888Fax +86-21-5288 [email protected]

USTER®SENTINEL enables practical optimiza-tion for managers and shop floor personnel

Even in the best ring spinning mills, there is al-ways room for improvements, among a complexrange of options management and operatives needto consider for optimized productivity and profit.USTER®SENTINEL provides a fact-based over-view of spinning machine performance, pinpoint-ing real opportunities for excellence in the use oftechnology, components and manpower."The biggest challenge in my job is to source skilledshop floor operatives and retain them inthe long run,"says M. Kannan, General Manager responsible fortechnical and factory administration at Kikani Exports.The mill - obviously a well-run unit - is located atDholka in the Indian state of Gujarat. Its installed

Ring spinning… as good as it can be

M Kannanm, G.M., Kikani Exports

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capacity includes 29,376 ring spinning spindles and 4,320twisting machine spindles. To improve the manpowersituation, the mill prioritizes progressive HR policiesand a decent working environment, as well as investingin sophisticated production machinery.

Wide-ranging benefits in ring spinning

USTER® SENTINELinstallation

"We invested in USTER®SENTINEL ring spinningoptimization system with the goal to improve profits butwe are delighted that staff also likes the installations,"says Vrajesh Kikani, Managing Director, Kikani Ex-ports. The mill reports a positive impact on profitabilityresulting from successful optimization of a number offactors, such as waste, ring traveler lifetime, machinespeed and energy consumption etc.

Production focuses on 100% cotton combed compactyarns, in the count range Ne 20 to Ne 40, for weavingand knitting end-uses. The mill has been able to reduce

waste by half since installing USTER®SENTINEL.

Enhanced overall productivity is a consequence ofreducing pneumafil waste. USTER®SENTINELalsomonitors the productivity of all spindles, feeding backall the required links and information to help yarn pro-ducers make optimization decisions at ring spinningbased on reliable data.

Among potential problems for all spinners is inconsis-tent yarn quality characterized by low twist, caused byloose fibers blocking travelers- especially excessivelyworn ones. Only USTER®SENTINEL can identifyspindles malfunctioning in this way, since the issue doesnot cause end-breaks but still produces yarns whichare too weak for high-speed warping and weavingmachines. Then unique Off-Standard feature ofUSTER®SENTINELsafeguards against 'hidden' qual-ity risks such as this.

Bobbin build-up report gives practical supportEnd-break levels are a key indicator of ring spinningperformance, and USTER®SENTINELrecognizes thisby providing an intuitive bobbin build-up report for everyparameter influencing end-breaks.

Spinners can then initiate improvements relative to theirown mill, taking account of ambient conditionsandenergy consumption, as well as machine speed, wearof mechanical parts and personnel.

The bobbin build-up report also provides for higherperformance, along with optimized cops. Comprehen-sive analysis of the speed curve - and its impact onquality throughout cop build-up - is a key element ofthe enhanced way of optimizing ring spinning perfor-mance. Cop build-up quality is the new dimension ofoptimization, enabling managers to select the correctmachine settings for higher production yields, whilekeeping quality at the desired levels. Furthermore, it isnow possible to compare ring spinning performancebetween different machines.

"The bobbin-build up report offers us potential savingson travelers, optimizing their lifetime," says Kannan.He makes use of this facility for ring traveler perfor-mance comparisons by using the end-break informa-tion to indicate the end of traveler life cycles. Thebobbin built-up report allows the mill to monitor trav-eler wear related to age, checking stable end-breakrates through the entire doff duration. This report showsthe current state in intervals of five minutes, and an

V Kikani, M.D., Kikani Exports

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overview provides information about end-breaks per1,000 spindle-hours.

Fact-based feel-good advantagesReports give status information at five-minute inter-vals, including end-breaks and piecings during thatperiod. "Information about piecing speedshelps me toidentify each operator's skill level so that I can opti-mize the operation schedules and processes. Onlybyassigning manpower carefully it ispossible to main-tain ideal working conditions," says Kannan.USTER®SENTINEL handles complete personnelmanagement, including shift planning and staffassignmentfor all machines in the system - integratedwith monitoring of critical ring spinning parameters.This makes personnel management in ring spinning fact-based and less time-consuming.

Reliable detection of slip, rogue and idle spindles iswhat makes USTER®SENTINEL popular among shopfloor staff. LEDs indicate spindles showing an issue orpositions where an end-break occurs, directing person-nel quickly to fix the problem. Incidents are also shownon the machine display, providing an overview of spindleswhere attention is needed. "Operators really enjoyworking thanks to USTER®SENTINEL, as it makes iteasy to spot an end-break, even when patrolling faraway. They enjoy the experience of handling their jobefficiently and are under less stress - both of whichincrease the feel-good factor at work," says Kannan.

The long viewOptimizing the potential of ring spinning covers many

aspects, taking advantage of USTER®SENTINEL andthe data it provides: waste saving, compressed air saving,energy saving, cuts saved at winders and increasedproductivity and quality. Says Kikani: "USTER® SEN-TINEL works as a ring spinning optimization system,increasing profitability where it matters most…everyday."

Kikani visited the USTER booth at ITMA 2019 inBarcelona. He was interested to learn about furthertechnologies and how a mill will be managed in future."I'm amazed about the advantages for ring spinningthrough connectivity. I can see more profit optimizationpotential. With USTER®SENTINEL and USTER®QUANTUM already installed, only USTER® QUAL-ITY EXPERT is needed to correlate ring quality dataand winding quality data in a single system."

There is one key performance indicator still not inte-grated the system but no less important to the com-pany: "Enjoyment. A happy staff supports great perfor-mance and is a positive cost factor for the mill in thelong run," says Kannan.

For more information, Contact for journalistsKathrin NiedurnyMarketing Content & Communication ManagerUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 108610 Uster, SwitzerlandPhone +41 43 366 3889, Mobile +41 79 895 [email protected], [email protected]/sentinel

SDC International India Pvt. Ltd. in India successfullyconducted an 'Engaging Color, Coloration & Compli-ance with the dyers and Colourists'conference at theongoing ITMACH India 2019 exhibition during 05th to07th December, 2019 n Gandhinagar, Gujarat. Afterthe opening ceremony on 5th December 2019, Mr.YogeshGaikwad, Director of SDC International, intro-duced SDC, its mission and its objectives to the del-egates.

1. The first presentation by Mr. YogeshGaikwad, Di-rector of SDC International India Pvt. Ltd.

2. The second presentation by Mr. Uday Kale, Sr.Application Engineer of Datacolor Solutions Pvt.

SDC International successfully conductedConference at ITMACH 2019

Ltd. Mumbai.3. The Third presentation by Mr. Sunil Malvankar,

DGM in JAY Instruments & System Pvt. Ltd.

After the opening ceremony on 7th December 2019,Mr. YogeshGaikwad, Director of SDC International,introduced SDC, its mission and its objectives to thedelegates. He welcomed the delegates, speakers &pan-elists to the seminar and gave introduction of the con-ference topic to all the guests followed by the lightingof the lamp by all the dignitaries. Chief Guest for theevent, SDC CEO Dr. Graham Clayton, addressed thegathering of dyers, colourists and other textile value

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chain stakeholders on the conference theme. He pre-sented various initiatives from the SDC to engage withmembers and non-members.

He highlighted that unless associations adapt, they won'tsurvive. The SDC two key strategic strands are key:1) To develop a Colour Education Pathway spanning

Further and Higher educational years, throughemployment and into retirement. This pathway willinclude Technical and Design communities world-wide and at all levels of qualification including theSDC Designer's Coloration Certificate, the SDCFoundation & Textile Coloration Certificate andof course the flagship ASDC, and related LSDC,along with CCol Chartered status and FSDC,Fellowship of the SDC.

2) To develop SDC Communities to bring togetherlike-minded individuals based on either geographi-cal or interest commonalities. https://vimeo.com/225985648

This was followed by four technical sessions inwhich panel discussion were held.The first panel discussion on 'Compliance in TextileManufacturing' was moderated by Mr. UllhasNimkar,Director of NIMKARTEX Technical services. Thepanelists comprised Dr. RumaChakrabarti, BusinessHead-India, Centexbel; Mr. Subhash Bhargava, Man-aging Director Colorant Ltd; Mr. SubaashDhananjayan,Managing Director for India & South Asia, The Sting,a Netherlands-based retail brand. In a very interactivesession, Mr.Nimkar and the team of panelist highlightedthe need to screen input chemicals like acids, salts forbanned products too as in some cases heavy metalswere found in salt. Textiles made of recycled materialcollected from the sea can also have chemicals thatleached out due to prolonged exposure to sunlight.

The second panel discussion on 'Solutions to sustain-able textile colouration' which was moderated by Mr.Anjani Prasad, Managing director and head brandperformance textile specialties India, Nepal, Sri Lanka,Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. The panelists included Mr.Jayant Khera, Vice president South Asia, Dy Star In-dia Pvt. Ltd; Mr. Siddharth Raj, Regional marketingmanager-dyes responsibility, Huntsman InternationalLLC; Dr. Binay Choudhary, Chairman, CU InspectionIndia Pvt. Ltd; and Yawar Ali Shah, Chairman and co-founder, AMA Herbal Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. It was amatter of concern raised by the panelist that a lot moreneeds to be done to a 'cleaner' colouration of textiles.Brands, Retailers and chemical manufacturers mustcollaborate and make collective contribution to sustain-able textile colouration. Mr. Anjani Prasad and the panel

gave various example were waste from one industrywas used to created durable products in another.

Post lunch session on 'Brands response to call ofsustainability' was moderated by Dr. Siva Pariti, Globaltechnical program manager, Sustex Solutions. Mr. SumitGupta, Deputy Director, GOTS and Ms. Vandana Arora,Manager, Back Selling & CSI Liaising, DyStar IndiaPvt. Ltd, Mr. Ashok Sarda, Vice President Zydex In-dustries and Venkat Ramana Bhat, Regional MaterialsManager were among the panelists. The panelist pro-vided examples of sustainable initiatives by brands, Mr.Sarda highlighted the need for using pigments to re-duce resources and create better managed colouration.

Mr. Sumit Gupta highlighted the success of brands anddesigners who have embraced organic pathway.Ms.Vandana put forward example of recycling bybrands and that domestic brands must push much moretowards attending a sustainable fashion brand. Mr.Bhatbriefed about the precautions taken by Colombia dur-ing sourcing their raw materials for their products.

Environmental expert Dr. Jaideep Dudhbhate, consult-ant at Dr. JD Consulting, spoke on 'Best availabletechnologies for wastewater management' in the lastsession.

All the sessions were very informative and interactive.Well appreciated by audience.

Vote of thanks was given by SDC CEO Dr. GrahamClayton with special thanks to all the dignitaries, Speak-ers, Moderators and panellist who contributed to shar-ing their knowledge to the esteemed audience. Also, aheartfelt thanks were given to the sponsors, M/sArchroma India Pvt. Ltd, M/s Kiri Industries Ltd, M/s AMA Herbal Laboratories Pvt. Ltd, M/s GOTS,ITMACH and ISFT for their contribution.

The SDC is the outstanding provider of colour educa-tion, offering a range of internationally recognisedcoloration courses and qualifications. Our mission is toeducate the changing world in the science of colour.Founded in 1884, the SDC became a registered charityin 1962 and was awarded a Royal Charter in 1963.The SDC remains the only organisation in the worldable to award the Chartered Colourist status. The SDCworks globally, with worldwide membership and is acentre for networking and community engagementamongst the coloration industry.

More about SDC https://sdc.org.uk/

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Tailor-made solutions for hygiene, medical, filtration andother technical applications as well as extensive prod-uct and process know-how - with these argumentsOerlikon Nonwoven made a convincing appearance atthe 18th Shanghai Interna-tional Nonwoven Exhibition(SINCE) that took place from 11 to 13 December,2019

Oerlikon Nonwoven at SINCE 2019

Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Head of Sales and Marketing ofOerlikon Nonwoven, was very pleased with the threelively days at the trade fair: "The many discussionsshowed that we are on the right track with our strat-egy and the further development of our technologieswith regard to nonwovens. Visitors were im-pressedby our technology solutions for disposable nonwovenfabrics or geotextiles". Almost all well-known nonwovenfabric producers visited the trade fair stand of the plantmanufacturer from Neumün-ster to find out about theadvantages of spunbond, meltblown and airlaid tech-nologies.

Overall, the nonwoven fabric team of the OerlikonGroup draws a very positive conclusion and looks backwith satisfaction on the intensive and good quality dis-cussions as well as numerous concrete in-quiries fromcustomers and prospective customers.

Extensive spunbond portfolio - always the right solutionIn the field of spunbond technology, Oerlikon Non-woven is already very broadly positioned. The produc-tion process for geotextiles made from polyester orpolypropylene has been optimised. It is character-izedby high production capacities and yields combined withlow energy consumption.

For the production of hygiene nonwoven fabrics,Oerlikon Nonwoven offers its new QRS plant (Quality

Successful trade fair appearanceat the SINCE in Shanghai

Sized Right). The webforming part of this plant is pro-vided by Oerlikon's Chinese engineering partner andintegrated into the overall plant. The advantage for thenonwoven fabric producer: competitive so-lutions at anattractive price level with comparatively low invest-ments.

Meltblown technology for even higher qualitiesWith Oerlikon Nonwoven's optimized meltblown tech-nology the production of new, unique and highly sophis-ticated filter media is made easy. Whether used as astand-alone mono or bi-component plant, "plug & pro-duce" installations in existing plants or in combinationwith other technologies: Oerlikon Nonwoven's meltblownprocess enables already today the cost-efficient pro-duction of meltblownnonwo-ven fabrics with tomorrow'squality requirements. More and more producers areopting for Oerlikon Nonwoven's meltblown solutions,which have proven their worth many times over andare subject to constant further development.

Airlaid technology for the nonwoven fabrics oftomorrowThe production of high-quality, lightweight airlaid non-woven fabrics at economically attractive productionspeeds and plant throughputs is very much in demandtoday. In this area, Oerlikon Nonwoven setsnewstandards with its patented forming process char-acterized by homogeneous mixing of a wide rangeofraw materials while simultaneously achieving highuniformity and homogeneous fibre deposition evenwithvery thin nonwoven fabrics. The advantages of thistechnology become increasingly important forsustainableapplications in the recycling sector: Oerlikon Nonwovensuccessfully commissioned twoairlaid recycling plants this year alone.

For further information, please contact:Claudia HenkelMarketing, Corporate Communications& Public AffairsTel. +49 4321 305 105Fax +49 4321 305 [email protected] André WissenbergMarketing, Corporate Communications& Public AffairsTel. +49 2191 67 2331Fax +49 2191 67 [email protected]

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TENCEL™ has announced its partnership withslow fashion label PAUSE to create a sustainablecollection.

The collection titled 'Ethical and Edgy' brings togetherthe perfect balance of utility and multifunctional cloth-ing. Each ensemble has been created with the utmostcare and an eye for detail, allowing it to be worn andstyled in different ways. The structure of the garmentshighlight the features of TENCELTM fibers, giving ita smooth, soft finish and fluid texture. This capsulecollection features a range of deconstructed separates- jackets that convert to dresses, dresses which con-vert to tops, making fashion choices limitless. To el-evate the sustainability quotient, the embellishments usedin the collection are created from recirculated fabricand fabric scraps.

Commenting on the collaboration, Arpit Srivastava,Branding and Marketing, South Asia Lenzing Groupsaid, "We at Lenzing are excited to have collaboratedwith PAUSE to create this capsule collection. Withincrease in consumer awareness on the ecological straincreated by the fashion industry, sustainability is theneed of the hour. PAUSE has helped us to reinforcethe importance of ethical clothing and innovations drivento increase an interest among consumers towards sus-tainable fashion. The collection is trendy, while at thesame time brings together the sustainability factor,redefining everyday fashion."

Speaking about the collection, NehaModi&NehaTham-Founders of PAUSE, "At Pause, comfort is our toppriority. Therefore it was only natural for us to gravi-tate towards TENCELTM fibers from the get go. Our

TENCEL partners with PAUSE to bring togethera sustainable collection

mission is to create slow fashion but using rapid inno-vation and technology in our raw materials. Stayingtrue to TENCEL™'s core competency- each garmentis light and breathable along with a plethora of perfor-mance features and at the same time is high onsustainability. The silhouettes are feminine yet androgy-nous, structured but at the same time fluid allowing thecustomer to express themselves and to choose whothey want to be."

Sustainable fashion has been conceived as a nichefashion category catering to a specific set of consum-ers. As a major misconception of such brands havinghigher prices for products and a limitation in clothingoptions to choose from, consumers tend to move to-wards fast fashion brands that are in sync with thetrends and styles without burning a hole in the pocket.This association has helped build the idea that sustain-able fashion can be trendy and contemporary.

TENCELTM branded fibers are derived fromsustainably managed forests and manufactured usingan award-winning closed-loop process that producesfibers with a significantly lower carbon footprint andthus helps lower the ecological balance. With featureslike smoothness, breathability, colour retention and bio-degradability, this is the perfect alternative option forboth designers and consumers moving towards eco-fashion.

About PAUSEPause is a sustainable brand, that launched a little under3 years ago, and since then the brand has gonefromstrength to strength. Pause began with pop-up storesacross India - covering multiple cities in a short spanof time. In September 2017, Pause opened their firststore in Pali Hill, Bombay.

Housed in a two-storey bungalow, the store carries acomplete ready-to-wear collection and plays host to anumber of events and special launches. Pause focuseson using eco-friendly fabrics with minimal waste gen-eration and has become the go to brand for manyIndian celebrities like Kareena Kapoor &Malaika AroraKhan.

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INDIA

EduTech India - International Exhibition & Conference onEducationDate : 09th to 11th January, 2020Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre,

Goregaon (E), MumbaiContact : Mr. Tejinder Singh NagiMob. : +91 9970159012E-mail : [email protected] /

[email protected],

Texcare Forum India - LaundrexNet, 2020"Revolutionizing Laundry & Dry Cleaning Industry"Date : 15th February, 2020Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre,

Goregaon (E), MumbaiContact : Hardik Shah, Asst. Manager Sales

Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt.Ltd.Gala Impecca, 5th Floor,Andheri Kurla Road,Chakala,Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400093

Tel. : (+91) 22 61038425Mobile : (+91) 8850 888 234Email : [email protected] : www.messefrankfurt.com

2nd National Investors' Conclave by ITTA Avenues ofDiversification & Investment in Technical TextilesDate : 20th & 21st February, 2020Venue : Surat, Gujarat, India

The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit organizingOne Day Seminar "Opportunities for Textile Industry inChallenging Scenario"Date : 29th February, 2020Venue : Hotel Fortune Park Galaxy,

Daffodil hall, GIDC, N.H. No. 08,Vapi- 396 195 (Gujarat)

Contact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh,Conference ConvenerThe Textile Association (India) -Mumbai UnitAmar Villa, Flat No. 3, Behind Villa Diana,86, College Lane, Off Gokhale Road,Near Maher Hall,Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028

Tel. : 022-24328044 / 24307702,Fax : 022-24307708E-mail : [email protected],

[email protected] : www.textileassociationindia.com

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

9th Hometex Tech ExpoDate : 13th to 15th March, 2020Venue : AnaajMandi Complex, PanipatContact : Mr. rajesh Sinha / Mr. Manoj Arya

Essential Events & Trade FairsAnmol Plaza, Plot no. 7, Sector 8,Kharghar, Navi Mumbai - 410 210

Mobile : 9324077881 / 9718514089E-mail : [email protected],

[email protected] : www.essentialtradefairs.com

IND-TEXPO 2020Date : 17th to 19th March, 2020Venue : CODISSIA Centre, CoimbatoreContact : The Cotton Textiles Export PromotionCouncil (TEXPROCIL)

Engineering Centre, 5th Floor,9 Mathew Road, Mumbai 400 004, INDIA

Tel. : (+91)(22) 49444000, Fax: +91(22)23632914E-mail : [email protected] : www.texprocil.org

7th Non Woven Tech Asia 2020Date : 05th to 06th June, 2020Venue : PragatiMaidan, New Delhi, IndiaContact : Radeecal Communications

402, 4th Floor, "Optionz" Complex, Opp.IDFC Bank, Between Girish Coldrink andXaviers Corner, Off C.G Road,Navrangpura, Ahmedabad- 380009Guj

Mobile : +91 91734 40725E-mail : [email protected]

ABROAD

International Textile & Textile Engineering Exhibition(ITME AFRICA)

Date : 14th to 16th February, 2020Venue : Millenium Hall, Addis Ababa, EthiopiaContact : India ITME Society

1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor,Plot No. 211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021

Tel. : 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834Fax : 022-2285 1578, Mobile: 7303456667E-mail : [email protected], [email protected] : itme-africa.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however,advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc.,before finalizing your travel plans.

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