Unlocked: Fiat Doblo Lockset Change KEYLINE ON KEY ...€¦ · The highly respected locksmith...

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1 The Knowledge Base for Todays Locksmith The FREE Technical Magazine Issue 6 December 2016 www.locksmithmag.com Tackling Locks for Peugeot and Citroen Vehicles › Part 2 Unlocked: Fiat Doblo Lockset Change KEYLINE ON KEY DUPLICATION AND THE AUTOMOTIVE SECTOR

Transcript of Unlocked: Fiat Doblo Lockset Change KEYLINE ON KEY ...€¦ · The highly respected locksmith...

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T h e K n o w l e d g e B a s e f o r T o d a y s L o c k s m i t h

The FREE Technical Magazine

Issue 6 December 2016

www.locksmithmag.com

Tackling Locks for Peugeot and Citroen

Vehicles › Part 2

Unlocked: Fiat Doblo

Lockset Change

KEYLINE ON KEY DUPLICATION AND THE AUTOMOTIVE

SECTOR

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Bio’s of this months contributors

Martin PinkThe highly respected locksmith Martin Pink has been at the forefront of the development of tools and techniques for picking, decoding and opening many of today’s toughest locks. Martin has been instrumental in the development of the Genuine Lishi Brand and he wrote the definitive guide to opening car locks called the Genuine Lishi Training Kit. Martin is known around the globe for his knowledge of car lock technology and is highly sought after at locksmith exhibitions and training events around the world.

Richard BunnHaving previously worked as an IT professional Richard went on to train with SAVTA (Safe and Vault Technicians) in the USA. On his return to the UK he went in search for as many locksmiths, safe and automotive training courses he possibly could to refine his skills further. Fifteen years of successful locksmithing later, Richard has specialised as an automotive locksmith and completes over a 1000 ‘lost keys’ jobs per year for customers such as the RAC.

Massimo BianchiMassimo Bianchi is the Keyline Strategic Planner and he works tirelessly to advance the reputation of the Keyline brand worldwide. Massimo is highly respected throughout the industry for his passion for locks and his in depth knowledge of keys, key cloning and cutting machines. This knowledge and passion is built on nearly 350 years of the Bianchi family being at the centre of key development and advancement, and they have pioneered many developments in the world of key cutting and car key related technology.

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Letter from the editor

Table of Content

Merry Christmas from Cars Keys and Locks magazine, and welcome to our 6th edition!

If you are looking for more guides and more go to reference material to help you out in your work, then you’ve come to the right place. In this edition Martin Pink is back with the second part of his Peugeot and Citroen guide. This month he is covering the Fiat SIP22 lock, which is also used on a range of Peugeot and Citroen vehicles. He will be taking you through the picking and decoding process of the VA2 lock as well as the HU83 lock used on these cars.

We have a very special contribution this month from Richard Bunn who has produced an in-depth how to guide on changing the lockset of the Fiat Dablo. Richard takes you through each and every step, explaining the process thoroughly!

Keyline is also back this month with another article on key cutting excellence. For this edition they have taken us through every step of the key duplication process, using their incredible Ninja Laser. You’ll find it extremely easy to use this electronic cutting machine once you’ve been through the handy step by step guide they’ve given.

Finally, we will be giving you some insight into using the Genuine Lishi 8 Cut Tibbe – designed for use on Jaguar vehicles. The tool is fantastic and now you can use it to its maximum potential with this easy to follow guide.

Missed one of our magazines? Not yet subscribed? Go to www.locksmithmag.com for the full magazine archive

A note from the Sponsors:Everyone here at Tradelocks would like to wish all those in the industry a very merry Christmas! It’s been a fantastic year for the locksmith industry, for Tradelocks and for Cars Keys and Locks magazine - which has been going from strength to strength. Cars Keys and Locks is for the everyday locksmith and we hope it has been as much of a valuable tool for them as we had hoped! We promise that next year there will be even more guides, more expert advice and more fantastic articles from our talented and well informed contributors. Watch this space!

Tackling Locks for Peugeot and Citroen Vehicles › Part 2The VA2 LocksThe Fiat SIPP22 LocksUnlocked: Fiat Doblo Lockset ChangeAsk the ExpertTradelocks Open DayUnlock your Auto Skills at the Genuine Lishi Training Academy with Tradelocks

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Tackling Locks for Peugeot and Citroen Vehicles › Part 1I

Picking and Decoding the HU83 LockThe Genuine Lishi 3in1 Pick and Decoder

The pick we are using is the newest 3in1 version of the tool.

The HU83 is widely fitted across the Peugeot Citroen range; the tool picks and decodes all in the range despite there being 2 different series.

You will see that the lock has 8 positions; even on one side and odd on the other, as the lock follows a 1 up, 1 down pattern. There are 4 key heights for the decode and we decode in the same direction as we pick.

If you have the older single lifter tool it’s still possible to pick the lock in the same way, but when decoding it will be in the opposite direction to the pick.

The HU83 lock only has 7 positions which will always be ‘felt’ picked and decoded in positions 2 to 8 - when entering into the key machine we enter as positions 1 to 7.

You might be wondering: “If the lock only has 7 wafers then why does the tool have 8 positions?”

The answer is simple; the tool also picks and decodes the Mini and the Rover75 lock, which both have 8 positions, hence why the tool needs 8 positions.

Picking ProcessWe begin by centring our lifting arms and fully inserting the tool into the lock so that a wafer is felt in position 2, and position 8 – this confirms full entry.

In UK models, we apply a medium tension on the tension arm in the clockwise direction to open the lock. With tension applied we gently tickle each wafer position to find a binding wafer - if the wafer moves at all, even a small amount leave it alone - we only pick solid binding wafers.So with our tension applied we begin;

By Martin Pink

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Once position 3 is picked the lock opens. Holding the lock in the open position we are now ready to decode it; it is worth noting that we did not need to pick position 8 – this confirms position 8 is a number 4 cut.

Position 5 is 1st to bind and pick.

Position 7 is next to bind and pick.

Position 6 is next to bind and pick.

Position 2 is next to bind and pick.

Position 4 is next to bind and pick.

Position 3 is next to bind and pick.

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Decoding ProcessAs we are using the twin lifter tool we must decode in the same direction as we picked each wafer in.

So holding the lock in the open position we run the decode from position 2 to 8 on the tool in turn.

Position 2 decodes as a number 3 cut.

Position 4 decodes as a number 2 cut.

Position 6 decodes as a number 3 cut.

Position 3 decodes as a number 2 cut.

Position 5 decodes as a number 2 cut.

HU83

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Picking the HU83 Ignition LockAs cars get older it is not uncommon to come across vehicles that have had a partial lock change. This means we end up with different door and ignition locks.

So, in this case we must also pick and decode the VA2 ignition to be able to generate a key to start the engine; this process is the same.

We centre our lifting arms and fully insert the tool into the lock again, apply medium tension on the lift arm to pick the ignition in its ‘on’ direction.

We would then enter our cuts into the cut to code machine of 3222334 in positions 1 to 7 and cut the perfect key.

Position 8 decodes as a number 4 cut.Position 7 decodes as a number 3 cut.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8- 3 2 2 2 3 3 4

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Once position 8 is picked the lock opens; so with the lock in the open position, we run the decode on the ignition.

Position 2 is 1st to bind and pick.

Position 4 is next to pick.

Position 6 is next to pick.

Position 3 is next to bind and pick.

Position 5 is next to pick.

Position 7 is next to pick.

Position 8 is next to pick.

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Position 2 decodes as a number 1 cut.

Position 4 decodes as a number 2 cut.

Position 6 decodes as a number 1 cut.

Position 3 decodes as a number 2 cut.

Position 5 decodes as a number 1 cut.

Position 7 Decodes as a number 2 cut.

Decoding the HU83 Ignition LockWe decode in the same direction as we picked - from position 2 to 8 on the tool.

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Position 8 decodes as a number 1 cut.

We enter this in the cut to code machine as positions 1 to 7 to cut the perfect key.

So the ignition decodes on the tool in

positions 2 to 8, bow to tip as

1221121

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The VA2 Lock

The VA2 lock has been widely used by both Peugeot and Citroen and is considered one of the most basic locks to pick when using the Lishi 2in1 tool.

Picking and Decoding the VA2 Lock using the Lishi 2in1 Pick/ Decoder

The lock is a 6 wafer lock with 6 cut heights, some code software lists the cuts as 1 to 6 and other software lists them in letters A to F. The tool gives you the numbered height grid to the left and the alphabetical grid to the right to make things simple for both the user and the relevant code cutting equipment.

There is no confirmed and proven picking sequence for the VA2 lock and the lock shows no preferred picking direction. It prefers a light to medium tension and it is generally a very straight forward pick and decode that throws up no surprises.

Note: If you are a learner within the trade then this is an ideal lock to learn Lishi picking on.

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Fully insert the pick and tickle each position.

The 1st position to pick is position 5.

Position 4 is the next to bind.

Picking ProcessThe lock gives a very positive feel which makes it perfect to pick following the traditional picking technique of finding the binding wafer and simply picking it. Tickle each wafer in turn, if it moves leave it alone, if it binds then pick it. Once each binding wafer is picked the lock will open. On average the VA2 lock can be picked in under a minute.

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Position 5 binds and picks again.

Position 3 is the next to bind and pick.

Position 1 picks next and the lock opens.

The binding wafers are totally solid and give a very positive feel - the pick prefers a medium tension and is a simple opening. The decode is just as straight forward – just follow the procedure on the next page:

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Decoding ProcessHold the lock in the picked position and as it is a single lifter we decode in the opposite direction to that which we picked in.

Read from the grid on the right or left, depending whether your code software/ machine uses numerical or alphabetical codes.

Position 1 is a D (4) cut.

Position 2 is an A (1) cut.

Position 3 is a C (3) cut.

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Position 5 is a B (2) cut.

Position 6 is an A (1) cut.

Position 4 is a C (3) cut.

So the key on this particular lock, from bow to tip is: DACCBA alphabetical and 413321 numerical.

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The Fiat SIP22 Lock

By Martin Pink

Although mostly used on Fiat, the SIP22 Lock can also be found on a range of Peugeot and Citroen vehicles – which is why it has been included in this guide.

Picking the SIP22 Lock using the Lishi 2in1 Pick/ DecoderThe SIP22 Fiat lock is one of the simplest to pick and decode – it follows a basic picking principle, is a good positive feel and throws up no surprises at all.

It is an 8 wafer lock and in most cases all 8 wafers are found in the door lock; on a few early Punto models only 7 wafers are used and position 1 will be empty. The wafers use 4 cut heights which are clearly listed on the right of the tools grid.

The lock has anti-picks but they are actually helpful when picking and

defeating the lock. This is because the wafer remains solid until it is picked which is when a defined bounce (slap) is felt.

The pick is a single lifter design that decodes in the opposite direction to picking.

The lock has no proven picking sequence, so it is a matter of locating the binding wafer and picking it. Only light tension is needed and the lock has no preferred picking direction it picks simply in both directions.

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Picking Process

1. Fully insert the tool into the lock and apply a light tension.2. Slide the lifter under each position in turn.3. Lift each wafer, in turn, half a mm – if it moves at all leave it alone and move on.4. When a solid wafer is found, lift it, it will give a positive click.

If it now moves leave it alone and move on but if it is still solid then lift it again - continue with this until movement is felt.

5. Once each solid wafer is picked until moving – the lock will open.It is a simple process of finding the binding wafer and picking it until it has a tight bounce (slapping). The only thing that complicates the picking of this lock is excessive tension as this binds the wafer so tight it is difficult to lift and will result in unnecessary damage and wear to your tool.

Position 3 is the 1st wafer to bind and pick.

Position 5 is the next to bind and pick.

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Position 7 is the next to bind and pick.

Position 2 is the next to bind and pick.

Position 5 binds and picks again.

Position 2 binds and picks again.

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Position 5 binds and picks again.

Position 1 binds and picks next.

Position 6 binds and picks and the lock opens.

Position 3 binds and picks again.

Once picked open hold the lock

in the picked position for the decode.

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As this tool is a single lifter we decode in the opposite direction to that in which we picked. It is a simple process; just follow the numbered line by lifting the lifter along the line until it stops, it will stop on a cut height numbered line from the grid on the right – read the number to decode the cut height.

Position 1 is a number 1 cut.

Position 4 is a number 2 cut.

Position 2 is a number 2 cut.

Position 3 is a number 1 cut.

Decoding Process

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Position 5 is a number 2 cut.

Position 6 is a number 3 cut.

Position 7 is a number 1 cut.

Position 8 is a number 2 cut.

So, the key cuts from bow to tip are 12122312.

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If you’re using the old NSN14 2in1 you won’t pick up all 8 positions in the door lock due to a lock modifica-tion on the Juke and some other late model Nissans (like the NV200 etc.) You need the newer 3in1 NSN14 tool which is modified to work on these newer locks - you will then pick and decode these with ease.

I programmed an Astra J vehicle and the security light stayed on and didn’t clear. The engine ran fine and the remote worked but the padlock light stays on. I tried clearing the fault codes but it still stays on - is there a way to clear this?

I am having problems picking and decoding my Nissan Juke 2012 with my Lishi 2in1, I can’t feel wafers in all the positions?

Are you a locksmith unable to get a job done? Got a burning question, but not sure who to ask for advice on the latest products and tools? World leading auto locksmith professional Martin Pink is here to help! Each issue he will be answering some of your auto locksmithing questions, so if you’re in need of expert advice, get in touch!

You haven’t done anything wrong - this happens a lot and there is nothing to worry about. After around 6 miles or around an hour

of driving it will go out on its own; however, we don’t like leaving lights on as it’s unprofessional. A simple fix is to remove the key from the ignition and then disconnect the negative lead from the cars battery for 5 seconds. Reconnect and try the key - the light will now go off as it should.

ASK THE EXPERT [email protected]

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Your existing tool works fine on the Ford Kuga; the Kuga is the same HU101 lock as all Fords with the difference being it only has 7 wafers in it and not the 10 you expected to find. You will only feel wafers in positions 3

to 9 on the tool as the lock has no wafers in positions 1, 2 and 10.

Had you picked the wafers you could feel in positions 3 to 9 then the lock would have opened. Both the Kuga and the Explorer only have 7 wafers in positions 3 to 9.

I had to walk away from a Ford Kuga as my HU101 tool would not go in far enough as I couldn’t feel all 10 wafers - is this a different lock and is there a tool for it yet?

I’m struggling on a Peugeot 207, 2007 year. The key programs fine and the engine starts but I can’t get the remote to work at all. I’ve done loads of these with no issue in the past but can’t get this one to work. The original key works fine though so I know the system is ok; I’ve tried 2 different new keys with the same result, the remote won’t work.

This is a problem many are facing at present. PSA, on some models, have discontinued the old JCAE remotes in favour of Delphi remotes. The dealers now update their vehicle systems to take the new Delphi remotes; to do this you will need the Peugeot planet dealer tool.

At the moment it is still possible to obtain some JCAE remotes for these; but once they have gone the cars system will need updating to take the new Delphi remotes on sale.

If you have both in stock, check what system is fitted. Or if it’s a spare, check if the customers’ existing remote is JCAE or Delphi - a quick look under battery cover confirms this which is which.

An alternative to burning keys is to use the KD900 NB PSA remotes and generate the correct remote needed – this way doesn’t burn keys as a key can be rewritten if the wrong one is selected.

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Unlocked: Fiat Doblo Lockset ChangeAs most seasoned auto locksmiths will know, profitable jobs such as Fiats and Toyotas involve working with an EEPROM or two in order to create a transponder key for a customer (when all keys have been lost or stolen).

What I will show is the other side to that job – where customers not only need a NEW key but also need all the locks changing on the vehicle.

Locksmiths have short cuts in this situation and can either buy a new lockset on behalf of the customer to fit to the vehicle, or alternatively the vehicles existing locks can be re-combinated in order to give the customer a key with a different bitting.

This article will start with the ‘sometimes’ unknown basics of how to strip out each lock from the vehicle, giving you, the locksmith, the choice to then fit new or re-combinate the existing locks.

By Richard Bunn

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The customer had been quoted £1200 to have new keys and the lockset changed by the main dealer. So it’s definitely worth learning both how to do EEPROM work (TANGO and Orange5) as well as stripping and changing locks.

The Door LocksThe door locks are not removable by the traditional torx screw situated in the side of the door. You need to start by taking the complete door card off. This is due to the door lock being held in position with bolts that are situated inside the door card.

STEP 1: You first start by removing the side mirror trim that contains both a speaker and an adjustment stick for the external side mirror; once removed this will allow that side of the door card to come off without any obstruction. Ensure you use a wide trim tool to guarantee there are no breaks or stress marks on the plastic

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You will notice that the door cable needs removing before it

can be completely detached. This is a simple hook and catch which

needs unclipping from the mechansim.

STEP 2: Now remove, from the door card, the handle and window mechanism. This has two black covers where underneath you will find two torq bolts. Once both of these bolts have been removed you can lift the complete mechanism up and out of the recess.

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STEP 3: Now you are ready to safely remove the main body of the door card. Firstly, remove the torx bolt situated where the window/ door mechanism was seated. After this bolt has been removed the rest of the door card is held by the standard plastic ‘push’ trim clips.

Gently using your trim tool ‘pop’ the door card carefully away from the metal door frame.

Be careful to put the door card down in an area that will stop it from being damaged

(they are expensive to replace).

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Inside there are two linkage arms, both of which need disconnecting.

Remove the remaining fixing bolt shown at the bottom of the picture and you will

remove the complete handle and lock assembly in one. With the handle removed you then unscrew the one torx that fixes the lock to the handle and then TWIST

the lock out of the housing.

STEP 4: Now remove the rubber bungs on the side of the door – you can access the torx bolts below which both need removing.

STEP 5: Now remove the cover and you will find underneath the door locking mechanism and lock assembly.

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STEP 6: With the lock now removed you are able to access the plug to either re-combinate or alternatively fit a new door lock.

STEP 7: To remove the plug from the housing, unclip the black plastic mechanism as shown previously, and then remove the U clip from the body of the housing which finally releases the plug.

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With the assembly removed you now have

to remove the remaining U clip and the plug will

be accessible for changing.

STEP 8: With the door locks now changed on both sides (on this model), you can now focus on the infamous petrol cap and glove box locks.

The petrol cap body disassembles from the front of the cap. Use a 5mm screw-driver to start the process off – the action is like using a ‘tin opener’ as you run the screwdriver round the inside seam – but watch your hands!

It is constructed with small plastic locking tabs that keep the body fitted into the front cap. This means no more push on petrol caps for your customers.

STEP 9:

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TIP: Don’t forget to take pictures as you do each job

– this keeps as a useful future record of a ‘how to do’ for that vehicle plus it is invaluable if your job starts to go wrong as you now have a useful

‘before’ reference.

STEP 10: The glove box is often over looked and not changed by customers as they can be picked open and then left as is – however it is easy to change the glove box lock. There is a small circlip on the back of the glove box; you can move the circlip a couple of mm backwards and this will release the plug straight out the front. When the plug is then replaced it speeds up the process of locating the circlip, remember then to push the circlip back into position.

When new to lockset changes this type of job can be naturally quite daunting and unattractive however this guide is intended to give you some understanding and direction when taking on such a task for the first time.

With the need now to maximise every job we get these days it’s more profitable to say yes not just to the ‘quick’ diagnostic side but also the slower lockset change. This type of lockset change with some practise can be done in as little as an hour and gives the auto locksmith a greater earning potential from every ‘lost or stolen’ key situation.

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KEYLINE ON KEY DUPLICATION AND THE AUTOMOTIVE SECTOR

By Massimo Bianchi, Keyline Strategic Planner

Knowledge, innovation and technologyWhen you think of any specialist within the automotive sector, it’s hard not to think of the speed and precision that goes into their work – with car key duplication being no exception.

Every Keyline solution to car key duplication has been developed with this in mind; from the cutting machines themselves, to their software, the graphics and each and every fixture.

Precision mechanics, sturdiness and ease of use characterise the Ninja Laser, an electronic machine developed around the real needs of the professional, and capable of guiding the user through each part of the duplication process.

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The Ninja Laser: the perfect solution for the professional locksmith The Ninja Laser is capable of cutting automotive edge cut keys, laser keys and Tibbe keys by code, decode or depths. It combines two different technologies: a variable speed prismatic cutter and an end milling cutter.

The machine has been designed for all auto locksmith work places; from the shop floor or trade counter to the van when work onsite is required.

It’s simple to use and intuitive thanks to the integrated Liger software, completely developed by Keyline, which is distinguished by its ability to process every cutting system and receive online updates using just the console – which is equipped with a touch screen system.

The duplication process: step by stepThe sequence for duplicating a car key using the machine is simple and can be done in just a few steps.

Once the machine has been connected to the display, you need to press the main power button at the top of the appliance. You’ll first see the welcome screen, followed by the user screen.

Login with your user account and access the MAIN MENU page.

There are three main stages to cut a car key:

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1. Key search by car MAKE and MODEL From the MAIN MENU screen click on CARS and search for the MAKE of the car the key belongs to. After having selected the car MAKE, click on NEXT to get to the MODEL screen. Select the model and click on NEXT – select the year and click on NEXT.

2. Bitting entry If you have the key code, click on CODES,enter the code and click on NEXT. A preview of the key is displayed.

Alternately, if you have the original key, it is possible to proceed with the decoding process. Click on DECODE and follow the on-screen instructions to position the original key into the jaw, click on NEXT and follow the instructions through a series of messages.

Once finished the original key is displayed. The Ninja Laser decoding process is accurate and in addition to using the information entered on the car model, it is executed by detecting the real depth of the key cuts.

3. CuttingWith the key code ready, click NEXT to get to the cutting screen. The machine will ask you to enter the key blank as shown on the display. Click on CUT - the cutting process will start.

When the first side has been cut you will then be asked to turn the key 180 degrees to cut the other side.

Other Features INTERCHANGABLE AC JAW To make things even quicker for the user, we have also made it so that the majority of laser keys available on the market can be cut using just one single clamping system. The AC jaw works in 2 positions; one for decoding and one for cutting and these can be easily interchanged using just a handle.

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To decode using the AC jaw you simply follow the steps we have provided. To go to the cutting phase all you need to do is change the position of the jaw by turning the locking handle – it’s quick and simple.

Easy to change cuttersSomething else that cannot be overlooked is the how fast and easy we have made it to change the side-milling cutter. We have created a rapid cutter changing process so you don’t lose any time. All you have to do is push the tubular tool (included with the Ninja Laser) down from the upper park of the spindle in order to remove the fixing screw and extract the cutter.

Rapid software updates It is both quick and easy to update the machines software as it can be done directly using the machine with the console. This is one feature we have paid particular attention to when developing the Liger software.

Complete independence for the user Last but not least, we cannot ignore the ordinary workings of the machine and the fact every professional can use it with complete autonomy. That is because it comes with a full maintenance kit as well as all the necessary instruments for complete and independent use.

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The 8 Cut Jaguar Tibbe Lock

Getting an Accurate Decode with the Genuine Lishi 8 cut Tibbe tool

The Genuine Lishi 8 cut Tibbe decoding tool is simplicity itself to use and you get an accurate decode every time with absolutely no skill or training required.The Lock only uses 3 key heights and 8 positions.

The lock does not need to be picked at all in order to swiftly decode and direct read the key cuts in the 8 cut Tibbe lock; it is a simple direct decode that takes around 30 seconds to complete.

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The 8 Cut Jaguar Tibbe Lock

The procedure is simple:

1. Begin by fully inserting the tool into the lock and remove the disc holding pin.

2. Move each disc in the opening direction to their full stop position.

3. Then simply read the turners positions from left to right in (like in the image) from bow to tip. The key clearly reads as: 32233213.

Simply cut a key to this code and it will work perfectly in the lock.

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For those that also want to use the tool as a pick, it is a simple procedure with just 1 extra step.

Once you have moved all the lifters to their full stop position simply apply light tension in the opening direction. Gently move each number 2 cut and each number 1 cut position turner back a fraction and the lock will turn and open.

This is one of those tools that simply works without picking skills being needed; it does the job in seconds.

NB: In the USA some very old versions and some aftermarket versions of this lock come in full chrome lock sets. The tool does require skill to pick and decode these, and they must be picked then decoded; but this is only on the full chrome handles and lock housing – all of the colour coded housings as seen in this guide is a straight forward decode and read.

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Introducing the Genuine Lishi

8 Cut Tibbe!

www.GenuineLishi.com

� Designed for older Jaguar vehicles with 8 cuts

� Taken over 18 months to develop

� Based on the very popular 6 Cut Tibbe!

� Has 8 turners with 3 heights

� Ideally used as a straight decoder

� Packaging is part of the famous Genuine Lishi tray system

TOOLS BUILD FOR L IFE

THE PROFESSIONAL'S CHOICE

NEW

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First Name:Last name: Company Name:Full Address:Postcode: Email: Telephone Number:

Please fill out and return to: Marketing Dept., UAP LTD , Unit 1 Albert Close Trading Estate, Whitefield, Manchester, M45 8EH, England, UK

Or send your details via email to: [email protected]

YO U R W O R D S E A R C H E N T RY

Congratulations to Gerald Worrall from The Lockshop (Sia) Ltd in Sutton-in-Ashfield, who is the lucky winner of our wordsearch competition and has bagged himself

a £100 voucher to spend at www.Tradelocks.co.uk! Want to be in with the chance of winning your own?

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