Unit5research projects

Unit 5 Research Project

Worthing College Sports ScienceBy Anna D’souza

2015

Assessment Criteria Pages 3-17 & 27-38

• P2: carry out sport science or exercise science-based research

• P3: collect and record data from the research project conducted

• M2: correctly analyse collected data, describing techniques used

• D1: correctly analyse data, explaining techniques used

• P4: produce a full research report using a standard scientific structure

To investigate how physical characteristics affects the

performance for elite standard climbing performers

P2: Carry out / P4: Produce

Abstract

Write your own abstract for your research project here. Use the experience from the literacy review task as the basis for writing your own abstract. This should be the last part of the write-up that you complete.


Contents: GeneralPage 3: AimPage 4: Abstract : Contents: General Page 6: Contents: Appendices Page 7: Contents: Figures and tables Page 8: Acknowledgements Page 9: Introduction Page 10: Literature review and References Page 11: Project hypothesis Page 12: Method Page 13: Data collection Page 14: Data Analysis Page 15: Results Page 16: DiscussionPage 17: Conclusion Page 18: Assessment criteria Page 19: Review 1/3Page 20: Review 2/3Page 21: Review 3/3Page 22: Future recommendations 1/5Page 23: Future recommendations 2/5Page 24: Future recommendations 3/5Page 25: Future recommendations 4/5Page 26: Future recommendations 5/5Page 27- 40: Appendices Page 41-54 Figures and tables


Contents: AppendicesObjective 1- Appendix 1: standardised instructions Appendix 2:PAR-Q template Appendix 3: Participants PAR-Q’s who did not continue to be involved in research, due to injury and the right to withdraw. Appendix 4 PAR-Q’s of participants involved in researchAppendix 5: standardised instructions for time trial Appendix 6: Time trial score of participants A-P doing panel 7 yellow 6a Appendix 7: Tick list to show that the participants are elite climbers, done after completing the timed panel 7 6a climb Appendix 8: Videos of participants A-P doing panel 15 green 6b. Analysing there performance on this harder climb and comparing it to all participants involved in research.Appendix 9: Climbing wall tick list of the entire wall at the AOAC, ShorehamObjective 2-Appendix 10: Evidence of equipment used in research Objective 3- Appendix 11: Questionnaire looking at climbing ability and experience of each participants


Contents: Figures and TablesFigures and tables 1: All data collected for research project looking at participants A- P Figures and tables 2: Bar graphs that represent each participant and the data for each climber, which can be compared against one another Figures and tables 3: A scatter graph that represents the comparison between BMI and climbing experience for all participants A-P Figures and tables 4: A scatter graph that represents the comparison between BMI and current onsite grade for all participants A- PFigures and tables 5: A scatter graph that represents the comparison between BMI and the time trial score of participants A-P Figures and tables 6: A scatter graph that represents the comparison between climbing experience and current onsite grade of participants A-PFigures and tables 7: A scatter graph that represents the comparison between climbing experience and time trial score of participants A- P Figures and tables 8: A scatter graph that represents the comparison between Current onsite grade and time trial score for participants A-P Figures and tables 9: A table that shows the total difference squared, 6x difference squared, spearman’s rank and the correlation measure of the comparison between each aspect of research. Figures and tables 10: A bar graph to represent all 6 Spearman’s rank


Acknowledgements

I would like to thank all who agreed to be involved in my research and performed my basic tests, so that I could collect data for my research. All who attend the climbing community at the AOAC on a Wednesday evening between 7-10pm. I would also like to thank participant J, who helped me to perform the height and weight tests on the climbing subjects. Without the commitment of my participants I would not have been able to complete my research based on my aim: to investigate how BMI affects the performance for elite standard climbing performers.


Introduction:For my research project I have decided to look at indoor rock climbing, in particular I wanted to look at a climber and compare there physical characteristics to how well they are able to climb if there is a relationship between these two variables. The aim of my project is “By the end of my research project, I aim to understand how physical characteristics affects the performance of a 6a climber and above”. I chose this aim, due to being a climber myself and looking at my own performance, and being part of an elite climbing group I wanted to broaden my knowledge to understanding why other climbers become elite performers. I was then able to break down my thinking when looking at how climbers climb, from understanding that being a good climber is affected by there knowledge and understanding along with there size. There size was either a trait to their ability, or what comes with the territory of being an elite performer. Through this thought process I come up with the aim for my project. The timescale for my research is the initial planning started on the 14th of February to the 20th , then the research started on the 21st of February and finished by the 11th of march. The write up and data collection will then be finished by the 27th of march, and uploaded onto wordpress.


Literature Review and References

https://worthingsportscience.wordpress.com/author/annadsouza/





Project Hypothesis


• I predict that the higher the BMI, the lower the current onsite grade will be

• The higher the climbers experience of climbing, the lower the time trial score will be on panel 7 yellow 6a.

• If the participants time trial score is low then there BMI will be healthy

• There will be a positive trend between low BMI and current onsite grade

• If the climbing experience is high then current onsite grade will match this.

• If the climbers onsite grade is high then there time trial score will be low.

MethodI will distribute 25 PAR-Q’s of opportunity for my research; from these initial 20 the results of there PAR-Q’s will determine if they will continue to be involved I the research or not. This is determined on if they give any ‘yes’ answers to any of the health questions and there explanation/doctors consent of the issue. If the answers interfere with the research and health of participants, then this person will not carry on with testing. Firstly I will read out the standardised instructions (see appendix 1) to all participants and show the testing areas/climbs they will be doing. I will then distribute the PAR-Q questionnaires (see appendix 2) found on Tuesday the 7th – 9th of October at https://worthingsportscience.wordpress.com/category/unit-11-lessons/page/2/ . I give the participants 20 minutes to complete questionnaire before collecting and identifying who will continue research from answers and who will not. (see appendix 3 and 4)I then distribute the second questionnaire (see appendix 10) on participants current grade of climbing and climbing experience, with the same standardised instructions (see appendix 1). I give the participants 5 minutes t complete questionnaires and collect in. This provides me with qualitative data that I will enter into excel by the 12th of march. I then ask participants to complete the 6a climb on panel 7 in the quickest possible time and read the set of standardized instructions to each participant (see appendix 5). This test of all participants will be completed by Wednesday 11th march .After this I then ask participants to complete the participants to complete the green 6b climb which is a harder climb at an elite level of performance, this will be videoed and each participant will be compared to one another to prove they are elite standard performers (see appendix 8). This will be completed by the 11th of march After these climbs are completed by the climbers, I then ask them to complete further height and weight tests (see appendix 10), with the help of participant J to conduct height test using a tape measure then weigh climbers in kg. this data for each participant was written down and further entered into a BMI calculator http://www.nhs.uk/tools/pages/healthyweightcalculator.aspx.All participants personal info received will remain confidential. I will ensure that any personal data will be replaced with a letter to represent participant and covered. My research is field based and all participants were tested in their sporting environment. Through conducting a field based research project this will gain me primary data that has higher validity as I am aware of how the testing is conducted and the weakness and strengths of my research first hand.

P3: Collect and record / M2: Correctly analyse & describe techniques / D1: Correctly analyse & explain techniques

https://worthingsportscience.wordpress.com/category/unit-11-lessons/page/2/

https://worthingsportscience.wordpress.com/category/unit-11-lessons/page/2/

http://www.nhs.uk/tools/pages/healthyweightcalculator.aspx

http://www.nhs.uk/tools/pages/healthyweightcalculator.aspx

Data CollectionMy data collection is of primary data, as I have collected and researched the climbers myself. Collecting two types of data – quantative and qualitative but through collecting qualitative data I will produce quantative data this reacts to the hypothesis I formulated at the beginning of the research, on what I predict to find. The quantative data obtained is the age (years) of participants, heights (cm) and weights (kg)(BMI) and if they can climb a 6a climb or not. The quantative data is collected to compare to the climbers performance (onsite grade) with knowledge of the sport. The qualitative data collected through handing out a questionnaire 10 participants A-P in which there are 4 closed questions that the participants answer alongside their PAR-Q. this is conducted to show a correlation between their climbing experience, current onsite grade and the climbers BMI if BMI has an high impact on their performance as climbers.


Data Analysis To analyse the data I have collected through conducting my research, I will input what I have found on each participant into excel, this makes it easier for me to produce tables and graphs to show correlations. The data I have collected will produce bar graphs on each participant that shows there specific data and can be easily compared against one another to show any similarities and differences. I have then conducted scatter graphs to show correlation through all the results and a spearman's rank table, which show how strong the correlation is between two variables- very weak, weak, moderate, strong or very strong. I will produce 6 spearman's rank results from the data, on every aspect of the athlete each compared against one another. This is BMI and climbing experience, BMI and climbing onsite grade, BMI and time trial score, experience and climbing onsite grade, experience and time trial score and onsite grade and time trial score.


Results

This page should show your results. This page should be supported by tables, charts and graphs that should be shown in the research project figures and tables section.


Discussion

Here you should discuss your results. What did you find and why? Were your findings what you expected? Did you observe any trends in your data? Did you get results that you weren’t expecting?


ConclusionBy the end of my research project I aim to understand how physical characteristics, affects the performance of 6a climbers and above. When writing my literacy review and research 5 abstracts on the same topic and 5 other sources of info on elite climbing performers. My overall findings were that BMI has no affect on there climbing ability but the amount of practise climbing and working on specific moves, is key to the improvement of climbing ability at elite performance level. Do your results and discussion support your hypothesis or hypotheses? If they do why and suggest the reasons.


Assessment Criteria Pages 19-26

• P5: carry out a review of the research project conducted, describing strengths, areas for improvement and future recommendations.

• M3: carry out a review of the research project, explaining strengths, areas for improvement and future recommendations.

• D2: carry out a review of the research project, justifying future recommendations for further research.

Review (1/3)I think that the project conclusions met the project aim. I was able to gain results for all my hypothesis, that referenced the three objective in planning. My first objective was to classify climbers as 6a + performers and above, that was obtain through the video analysis of climbers on panel 15 green 6a. And the time trial on panel 7 6a yellow where all my participants climbed as fast as possible. My second objective was to collect the height and weight of the 6a+ performers to calculate BMI , this was obtained my measuring the height with a tape measure and weighing scales in kg. The third objective was to collect data on how long the 6a+ performers have been climbing along with their current climbing grade obtained by the questionnaire I developed ,to ask each participant their current onsite grade along with their climbing experience in years and months. The strength of my research was that in my initial testing I stated that I wanted to gather research of 15- 20 participants, from the climbing community. Overall I have gained results on 16 participants shown in table 1. That looked at four different components of my participants performance at an elite standard of performance. Which included BMI, climbing experience, current onsite grade and time trial score.

P5: Describe / M3: Explain / D2: Justify

Review (2/3)The strengths of my research project were that I made sure all tests where completed in the same way. For example when doing the time trials, each participant had one leg on the hold before starting and I counted down from three before go when I would start the timer and as soon as there hand touched the top of the wall I stopped the timer. To ensure that this was accurate I gave my participants a set of standardised instructions before starting the test. Another strength of my research was that when conducting the height and weight tests each participant was conducted in the same place, using the same method for testing and the exact same instruments to take data. I think that the whole research is valid and reliable and meets the data protection guidelines stated in the project planning template. It is valid because I was able to measure and collect data on what I set out to measure, from objective 1- 3 in project planning template. The same standardised instructions were used when gaining results on part I have done this for participants A-P. I have met data protection guidelines as I have covered any personal info, replaced with the letter they represent in my research from A- P.


Review (3/3)One area of improvement for this investigation, would be when looking at the videos of performers see if there is a specific number of steps it takes for my participant to reach the top and if this is based on climbing experience or BMI and how does this correlate to the other participants. This would allow my research to be further extended as I would have more results. I would see the participants repeat this climb over a series of weak to ensure that there climbing was not changed under pressure (when filming) or there ability is down to there experience and knowledge of the sport and the way this related to other participants. Before the participants climb the two panels for testing each member warmed up, if repeating the investigation I would ensure that I monitor the warm up more accurately so that they each have the same length of time, stretching out the same types of muscles on the climbs that they are warming up on. This would improve the reliability of the research in the future. I would also use a speedometer that accurately measures time when climbing and the exact point climbers reached the top of the wall to ensure that observer validity has not compromised the results.


Future Recommendations (1/5)

If I was repeat this investigation again, I would increase the number of participants that I researched. This number of participants would be representative of the climbing population in the Uk. This would make my conclusion, have higher validity, as I could use the results as normative data for further research.

P4: Produce / P5: Describe / M3: Explain / D2: Justify



• If I was to repeat this investigation, I would look at climbers who are leaders, TR and outdoor climbers so that the results have a higher internal validity. Due to the fact that as a climber you experience the sport as a whole to improve your performance, which is particularly relevant to those who have been climbing for a long time.



• If I was to repeat my research, I would see how my results relate to other climbing walls looking at the performance of elite standard climbers. I would do this due to the fact that the French grading system is subjective, there is no clear guide as to how a climb should be graded. So other walls may have variable levels of difficulty for routes, I would use this to reflect how my participants results fit in with other walls, or if they were subjective to the wall of testing.


If I was to repeat this investigation again when using a wall, I would ensure that my results can be accurately converted to any climbing wall, by gathering results for all grading systems used so that my results are not subjective to one region but coincide with all walls. This gives my results higher validity as they can be used on a larger scale.




• Increase the time frame that the research is completed in. Due to the nature of the participants, some of them did not come every weak. This made it difficult to process my findings together and had to rely on others to come each week for testing, and not until I had collected data on each participant could I gather and process my findings.

Research Project Appendices

Appendix 1Standardised instructions: • Have started to a research project to identify how BMI affects the

performance of elite standard climbers. This will be done through collecting through the initial distribution of 25 PAR-Q’s that show if you can be involved in research through the answers you give to the questionnaire. This looks at your health and how fit you are, to ensure that my research will not put a strain on your health. Secondly I will then collect the height and weight of each participant. Thirdly I will distribute a second questionnaire that identified your specific climbing experience and current onsite grade.

• I will then carry our further testing by timing you on panel 7 yellow 6b, in comparison with other athletes. Along with a tick list tom show you are a 6a climber that is ticked after completion of the timed climb. I will then video you climbing the green 6b on panel 15, which will be analysed against your fellow participants.

Appendix 2PAR-Q template used in research, that is given to each participant before involvement in research .

Appendix 3

1. 2. 3.

4. 5.

All these participants were willing to participate In my research, but as a result of filling out the PAR-Q had injuries and would not be safe for them to participate further. Number 5. was will to participate at the beginning of my research, but when it come to testing he was unwilling.

Appendix 4

C. D.

B.

E.F.

Appendix 4G.

H.I.

J.K.

Appendix 4

L.

M. N.

O. P.

Appendix 5

Standardized instructions: • Ask participants to start with 1 leg on the first

yellow hold of the climb. This climb will be timed so please complete in the quickest time possible time without causing any injury. I will count down from three and say go as soon as I have said this you will start. The finish and when I stop the clock is when you have touched the top of the climb.

• 1,2,3 Go!

Appendix 6• Time trial on panel 7 yellow 6a: Participants A-P

to gain data for objective 1 Letter: Time trial scoreà Panel 7 yellow 6a (minutes and seconds):

A 00:14.5B 00:33.2C 01:49.6D 00:25.3E 00:36.5F 00:28.5G 00:58.3H 03:47.2I 00:34.1J 01:35.0K 00:32.5L 00:33.6M 01:34.9N 00:33.2O 00:28.4P 00:54.1

Appendix 7A tick list to show if they are 6a climbers or not, completed after they have done the time trial on the 6a climb. To show if they are elite performers or not and can continue with the research.

Appendix 8 • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtGr1ahadSY• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6NSloCMb2w• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfKgc4GC2cE• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0hRHFmmUxI• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF85jvYNzss• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbLlDHx45kw• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvmGAKXiQT0• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7S4LxLGeB0&feature=youtu.be• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV0ZfYn6P8M&feature=youtu.be• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6y8bmbGAj-c&feature=youtu.be• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUDiAaJnqLw&feature=youtu.be• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9ZbmnYEHRsVideos of climbers doing panel 15 green 6b-

looking at elite performers and how they climb compared to the other participants in my research. To show if there is a difference between there experience in climbing, and the way they climb.

Objective 1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtGr1ahadSY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtGr1ahadSY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6NSloCMb2w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6NSloCMb2w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfKgc4GC2cE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfKgc4GC2cE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0hRHFmmUxI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0hRHFmmUxI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF85jvYNzss

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF85jvYNzss

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbLlDHx45kw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbLlDHx45kw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvmGAKXiQT0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvmGAKXiQT0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7S4LxLGeB0&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7S4LxLGeB0&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV0ZfYn6P8M&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV0ZfYn6P8M&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6y8bmbGAj-c&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6y8bmbGAj-c&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUDiAaJnqLw&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUDiAaJnqLw&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9ZbmnYEHRs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9ZbmnYEHRs

Appendix 9Climbing wall list: Panel number with the grade of each colour climbs in the wall.

Appendix 10

Evidence of the equipment used in the research project, to evidence objective 2.

Appendix 11

Name: A- P

Age:

Sex:

Climbing ability = current onsite grade:

Climbing experience (how long have you been climbing in years and months, be as specific as possible):

Questionnaire: To answer objective 3 of the research project.

Research Project Figures and Tables

Figures and Tables 1 Letter: Age: BMI: Climbing

experience:Current onsite grade:

Time trial score Panel 7 yellow 6a (minutes and seconds):

A 51 23 5 4 00:14.5B 22 21.1 0.6 5 00:33.2C 30 25.1 0.72 7 01:49.6D 35 24.5 8 4 00:25.3E 37 24.6 2 5 00:36.5F 37 21.7 2.72 6 00:28.5G 42 22.2 6 7 00:58.3H 33 19.3 1.3 7 03:47.2I 28 21.7 3.72 3 00:34.1J 35 18.7 0.6 7 01:35.0K 39 24.6 4 5 00:32.5L 24 20.1 2.84 5 00:33.6M 50 22.2 4 7 01:34.9N 51 23 7 2 00:33.2O 34 21.1 1.24 1 00:28.4P 23 21.2 0.72 7 00:54.1

Current onsite grade

Rank

6a = 76a+= 66b = 56b+ = 46c = 36c+ = 27a = 1

There are 12 months in a year this is divided by 10 =1.2 this represents each month the value in months is then divided by 1.2, and the number of years stays as a whole number.

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Current onsite grade Time trial score:

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Participant A: Results

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Time trial score: 00:33.2

Participant B: Results

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Participant C: Results

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Figures and Tables 2

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Participant F: Results

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Participant H: Results


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Participant I:Results

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Time trial scale: 01:35.0

Participant J: Results

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Participant K: Results

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Participant L: Results


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score:01:34.9

Participant M: Results

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Participant N: Results

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00:28.4

Participant O: Results

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Time trial scale:00:54.1

Participant P: Results



18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 260

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The comparison between BMI and climbing experience for all participants A-P

BMI and climbing experienceLinear (BMI and climbing experience)

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18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 260

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The comaprison between BMI and current onsite grade for all par-ticipants A-P

BMI and current onsite grade Linear ( BMI and current onsite grade )

BMI scores

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18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 2600:00.0

00:43.2

01:26.4

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The comparison between BMI and the time trial socre of participants A-P

Series1Linear (Series1)

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0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 90

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The comparison between climbing experience and current onsite grade for participants A-P


Climbing experience

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0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 900:00.0

00:43.2

01:26.4

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The comparison between climbing experience and time trail score for participants A-P


Climbing experience

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0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 800:00.0

00:43.2

01:26.4

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The comparision between current onsite grade and time trial score of participants A-P

Series1


Tim

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Figures and Tables 9 Total difference squared

6x differnce squared Spearman's Rank

Correlation measures

BMI and climbing experience 534 3234 0.207352941Weak

BMI and climbing onsite grade 509 3054 0.251470588Weak BMI and time trial score 653 3918 0.039705882Very weak

Experience and climbing onsite grade 638 1276 0.687254902Strong

Experience and time trial score 584 1168 0.71372549Strong

Onsite grade and time trial score 358 2148 0.473552941Moderate

.00 > .19 Very Weak

.20 > .39 Weak

.40 > .59 Moderate

.60 > .79 Strong

.80 > 1.0 Very Strong


BMI and cli

mbing experie

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BMI and cli

mbing onsite grade

BMI and time tr

ial score

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Spearman's Rank

Spearman's Rank

.00 > .19 Very Weak

.20 > .39 Weak

.40 > .59 Moderate

.60 > .79 Strong

.80 > 1.0 Very Strong

Unit5research projects

Sports

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