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Team 1.3 – Underwear to everydaySMHM 3350Fashion Analysis 1Claire Blough, Eunice Hurh, May Lee, Jordan Piland

Underwear to Everyday Wear

1. Late Middle Ages

1.1. Where it started

For the women of the 15th century, the trend of underwear becoming an everyday

outerwear fashion item began with the chemise. The chemise was worn under the deep

v-neckline of the different gowns during the Late Middle Ages. The overall look of the

typical woman of the 15th century can be found in the Appendix in all three pictures.

1.2. How and why

As shown in the first picture, the deep v-neckline was worn by women of class that

wanted to mimic Gothic architecture. The collar worn in the late 15th century was

greatly influenced by the deep v-neckline houppelande. The chemise was of great

importance simply because of the fact that it was now showing as a part of the gown.

“[Upper] class women in France appeared in gowns cut with low necks, closely fitted

bodices that emphasized the breasts…” (Tortura & Eubank, 2010) This meant that the

chemise, as well as the bodice, would need to be extremely form fitting.

1.3. Changes made

The undershirt evolved into the chemise which later evolved into a stomacher in the late

15th century. According to Tortora and Eubank (2010), the overall style of the chemise

did not change much, but the details of the fit and cut did change.

1.4. Who wore it

The chemise or smock/shift was worn by the upper class. The kirtle was worn by the

middle and lower classes (Brun, 2004). At the end of the 15th century, the kirtle began


flattening the bust, when before it was just there for support. Men also wore a chemise

in the Early Middle Ages, but took it off when doing labor work (Tortora & Eubank,

2010).

1.5. Garment and variations

In the Late Middle Ages, the chemise became of importance, due to the fact that it was

visible to the public eye. Women began making the chemise out of expensive fabrics

such as silk and linen in order to show off their chemise. The woman’s chemise was

embroidered at the neckline and armscye. The word variations of the chemise were

smock or shift in English and Chemise in French. During the early middle ages, there

were design variations of the chemise, such as, the long chemise, under tunic, and over

tunic.

1.6. Stylistic Characteristics

1.6.1. Cultural/Aesthetics

Gothic Architecture/Gothic Art heavily influenced the fashion of the Late Middle

Ages. “Various structural forms were placed on the head…and in the second half of

the century, headdresses grew taller.” (2010) Furthermore, women plucked their

eyebrows and hairline to elongate their forehead (2010). The deep v-neckline

mimicked the Gothic structures along with the henin. The visual for the henin is

shown in the first and third image.

1.6.2. Social

Class distinctions became less rigid as the Black Death struck in Europe in 1348 and

repeatedly throughout the 14th and 15th century. This devastating plague killed one-


third of the population of the regions it struck. As a result of the depopulation, labor

became scarce and aspiring workers from the lower class were offered opportunities

for advancement that did not existing before the Black Death. Also, according to

Tortura and Eubank (2010), heavy rainstorms and cold weather ruined the crops on

which people and cattle depended on, which led to the flight of peasants from the

countryside and an increase in urban population.

1.6.3. Political

At this time, the medieval monarchs had succeeded in centralizing the government.

The power of the nobles and knights declined, but the Kings were still able to bring

law and order to their realms and allow the trade and commerce to continue to

flourish (Tortura & Eubank, 2010).

1.6.4. Sexual

Women’s clothing began fitting more closely to the body in the 14th century. Along

with the gown and sleeves, the chemise became more form-fitting.

1.6.5. Economic

“Economic changes of the Late Middle Ages were in large part responsible for an

increased interest in fashionable dress” (2010). In the Late Middle Ages, there was

a revival of trade, commerce, and industry. Tortora and Eubank believe that trade,

with its concomitant cross-cultural influences, also brought a wide variety of fabrics

from all over the world to the population centers of Western Europe (2010). Kings

also began taxing cities. Once people became more affluent, they were able to

afford more fashionable garment pieces, as well as expensive fabrics for the chemise


and gowns.

1.6.6. Religious

Religious productions such as Bibles and prayer books were “hand lettered &

illustrated w/vividly colored painted miniatures” which showed the events from the

romances the Bible or Church history (2010).

2. Modern Day

2.1. Where it started

Lingerie became popular as an outerwear garment in America in the late twentieth

century. It all started with Madonna who wore a bra as outerwear in 1985 in

“Desperately Seeking Susan” (Chung, 2009). Approximately twenty-five years later,

underwear as outerwear started with Designer John Galliano who showcased garters and

corsets in Christian Dior’s 2009 Fall Collection, shown in picture 9, and soon after

developed ready-to-wear apparel (Fong, 2010). It was also seen on runways as early as

Spring 2009 according to director of branded buying for Aritzia, Erin Wahl; Chanel and

Stella McCartney quickly followed with their own versions of lingerie as everyday wear

(Fong, 2010).

2.2. How and why

People have been experiencing more sexual freedom. Also, with the downturn of the

economy, consumers have been trying to make the most of their outfits with what they

already own. Even if they purchase one article of clothing like a corset, it provides

automatic shape, pizzazz, and is fashionable all in one.


2.3. Changes made

Underwear has evolved from being used for health reasons, to providing body shape and

is now considered a fashion staple (Chung, 2009). Now, lingerie is not only used for

modesty purposes to cover private body parts and for use behind closed doors, but is also

used in everyday wear to add delicacy and femininity to a basic outfit.

2.4. Who wore it

Vivienne Westwood designed the cone bra and Madonna made it famous in the 90s.

Designer Jean Paul Gaultier designed the “original” pointed bra, shown in picture 4, for

Madonna’s 1990 “Blonde Ambition Tour” which was a defining moment in pop culture

and became her signature look (Lee, 2007). Entertainers such as Cher and Madonna

began to wear revealing outfits such as bustiers, corsets, sheer tops, and embellished bras

as shown in picture 5 during performances. Madonna incorporated lots of lace as well to

appear feminine. Nearly twenty-five years later, the trend has recently appeared again on

the runway, worn by celebrities such as Rihanna shown in picture 7 and Lady Gaga

shown in picture 6, and trickled down to the streets.

2.5. Garment and variations

The corset can be covered in detail or lace and come with ribbons as closure in the back.

Other closures include hook-and-eye closures, zippers, and elastic. The bustier has

become a more fashionable garment, as women have begun to wear it as a normal top

under sheer dresses, casual jackets and blazers as shown in picture 8.

2.5.1. Cultural/Aesthetics

In modern society, media has pushed for a more “sexy” image for women. Body


image is very important for women consumers. However, it has been stressed by

designers that it is important to make sure women do not overexpose themselves

and remain as subtle as possible when following the underwear to outerwear trend.

For the everyday woman, it should look delicate and feminine with pretty silks and

pastel colors, not over the top like entertainers demonstrate since that is for

performance purposes. Bottega Veneta’s runway show for Spring 2010 showcased a

cream cardigan over a similarly colored corset (Harris, 2010). The trick is to layer

as opposed to baring all.

2.5.2. Social

It is no longer abnormal for women of this century to be seen out in public wearing

a corset or a bodice, just like how it is no longer an odd concept to imagine a

woman wearing her sports bra to the grocery store or jogging around the

neighborhood. The shift of underwear to outerwear was last seen in the 1980s, but

has returned as a trend for 2009 and 2010 (Dykes).

2.5.3. Sexual

The underwear to outerwear trend is obviously has sexual motivation. While most

of these items are worn behind closed doors, consumers have embraced sexual

freedom more than ever before. Though celebrities like Lady Gaga have no

reservations when it comes to wearing underwear in public, the average person who

incorporates lingerie pieces into their daily wardrobe knows to layer and create a

sexy, but still conservative look.


2.5.4. Economic

According to the article “Panties give economy a sexy boost,” the sale of underwear

has boosted the economy. The Vancouver Sun suggests that when the economy is

down, consumers tend to utilize what they already have instead of buying something

new. This trend allows women to extend their wardrobe and use underwear they

already own under their outerwear such as a black bra under a sheer top or a silk

camisole.

2.5.5. Religious

Some may argue that religious values and morals are being compromised, as it is

now acceptable to wear underwear in public incorporated into everyday wear.

3. Future

3.1. Garment/How it is used currently

Currently, the articles of clothing that were originally labeled as “underwear” such as

corsets, bustier, and bras are now part of the apparel that are worn and viewed publicly.

Corsets are now popularly worn in replacement of a shirt or as a shell underneath a shirt

that is still visible to others. These are usually worn as casual/street wear, but can also

be dressed up according to the kind of findings that are adorned onto the corset or

bustier, as seen on some recent designer runway shows. People now like to play with

their styles through the use of underwear to further emphasize the distinct portrayal of

their outfits or to emulate runway models and celebrities.

3.2. Why this garment evolved


Despite the drastic shift on perspective of underwear in the historical and contemporary

context, the prediction is that fashion will return to its former way in a cyclical motion.

The fashion of underwear worn as outerwear has already moved to its extreme and can

go no further without it being overtly inappropriate, so the trend will now move back to

its more conservative and modest ways. Underwear will never become an article of

clothing that will be work-appropriate nor for formal occasions. The influence of the

media on teenagers has been big during this fashion phase, with celebrities donning

embellished bras and bodysuits during live concerts. Teenagers wanted to emulate their

idols and their fashion, but also create individualized styles with the underwear trend.

The trend progressed rapidly to the pendulum extreme and now the pendulum will swing

back to the opposite extreme of conservative wear. (Refer to Appendix 11 and 12)

Embellished bras, garters, one piece bodysuits, corsets—as well as those made up of

expensive patterns/material—will disappear and the trend will be “undergarments are

worn for support and comfort only”. People often become tired and bored of a certain

fashion trend once it hits the extreme point, because it becomes more difficult to be

creative and play around with the garments without making fashion sleazy. They will

soon embrace the next new thing and in this instance, conservative and comfort wear

becomes popular and will be communicated to the majority of the public. (Refer to

Appendix 10)

3.3. How garment is transferred and who will wear this garment

The new embracement of conservative wear will be communicated through the media by

celebrities and other fashion leaders. Teenagers who are often quick to dress like their


fashion icons will be one of the first to bring conservative wear in as part of their daily

wardrobe. Also, women who enjoy being comfortable in their clothing—which is

basically every woman—will also be delighted by this new change in fashion. The

target market that will appreciate the practicality of the fashion trend the most will most

likely be mothers who have children. Their busy lifestyle of managing their jobs and

homes will hold little patience and room for clothing discomfort, so the trend of

undergarments becoming comfort-wear once more will most definitely be a big sigh of

relief for the market. The quality of the underwear will remain important, but the

designs on the garment will no longer matter much less than before. The

embellishments, patterns, and the styles of undergarments will become more understated

and conservative since there will not be a need for adornments to make a presentation to

public eyes. Underwear will be worn for the sole purpose of keeping the wearer

comfortable and relaxed. There will be no more peek-shows for these types of

garments!


Refe re nces

B r u n , E . L . ( 2 0 0 4 , A u g u s t ) . M i d 1 5 t h c e n t u r y f r e n c h d r e s s ; a n d

i t s a c c e s s o r i e s . R e t r i e v e d f r o m h t t p : / / b i t . l y / a 9 h f G F

C h u n g , M . ( 2 0 0 9 , J u l y 2 1 ) . U n d e r w e a r a s o u t e r w e a r . A d o r n e d

M a g a z i n e , R e t r i e v e d f r o m h t t p : / / b i t . l y / c r w c 9 1

D y k e s , D . P. ( n . d . ) . L i n g e r i e a s o u t w e a r : w o m e n ' s f a s h i o n t r e n d .

F a s h i o n i s i n g , R e t r i e v e d f r o m h t t p : / / b i t . l y / x 7 M H I

F o n g , J . ( 2 0 1 0 ) . U n d e r w e a r a s o u t e r w e a r . T h e Va n c o u v e r S u n ,

R e t r i e v e d f r o m h t t p : / / b i t . l y / c l h o u y

H a r r i s , S . ( 2 0 1 0 , J a n u a r y 2 2 ) . U n d e r w e a r a s o u t e r w e a r . Vo g u e

U K , R e t r i e v e d f r o m h t t p : / / b i t . l y / 6 G y 5 G K

L e e , H . ( 2 0 0 7 ) . M a d o n n a ' s c o n e b r a i s t h a n k s t o j e a n - p a u l

g a u l t i e r . S a s s y b e l l a , R e t r i e v e d f r o m h t t p : / / b i t . l y / Z 0 y 9

P a n t i e s g i v e e c o n o m y a s e x y b o o s t . ( 2 0 1 0 ) . T h e Ti m e s o f I n d i a ,

R e t r i e v e d f r o m h t t p : / / b i t . l y / c g R 6 J 3


Tor to r a , P.G . , & Eubank , K . ( 2010 ) . Surv ey o f h i s to r i c cos tum e .

US A : F a i r ch i ld Books .


Appendix


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