Ultrapdf.pdf

LCKI8KI8M

www.chanel.com

The Sandals Destination Youve Been Waiting For

Barbados Only Five-Star Luxury Included Resort

Where Exclusive Is Always Inclusive

Kimonos Dover Beach Ocean Village Beachfront One Bedroom Butler Suite

Introducing the new Sandals Barbados. Distinctively chic.

Decidedly luxurious. Unmistakably Sandals. Nestled on one of the

most beautiful beaches, its the only ve-star resort in Barbados

thats designed exclusively for couples. From the decadently romantic

suites with private plunge pools and English Guild-Trained Butlers

to world-class dining in 11 specialty restaurants, Sandals Barbados

is everything youd expect a Luxury Included resort to be. Plus,

the majority of rooms & suites feature a tranquility soaking tub on

the balcony or patio, and no other resort in Barbados includes more

unlimited land and water sports like waterskiing and scuba diving.

Book today and take advantage of our incredible

Autumn Sale offers from London and Manchester.

ALL INCLUDED, ALL UNLIMITED, ALL THE TIME

SANDALS BARBADOS

RE-OPENS JANUARY 2015

A F T E R A $ 6 5 M I L L I O N F A C E L I F T

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN

ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PLANET

C A L L 0 8 0 0 7 4 2 7 4 2

V I S I T S A N D A L S . C O . U K

S E E Y O U R L O C A L T R A V E L A G E N T

T O B O O K T H E W O R L D S L E A D I N G A L L - I N C L U S I V E R E S O R T S

Crystal Lagoon Swim-Up Club Level Luxury Room

Bombay Club

AUTUMN SALE

NOW ON

LCKI8KI8M

Call us on

01306 747022

Visit www.kuoni.co.uk for inspiration and to

connect with your local destination expert.

Find your nearest store and book an

appointment at www.kuoni.co.uk/stores

T R AV E L

I N S P I R A T I O N A little inspiration can go a long way and our Personal Travel Experts have been around the globe

and are bursting at the seams to tell you about this funky new hotel thats just opened up, this

little restaurant tucked down the back streets that does the most authentic cuisine and must-do

experiences that will make this the holiday that youll always remember.

We have won over 170 awards for our holidays and service. Talk to us today to nd out why.

LCKI8KI8M

Bossa Nova Coming Soon

THE ORIGINAL THE LUGGAGE WITH THE GROOVES

BOSSA NOVA travel in style and do goodOut of solidarity with Brazil, this extraordinary range is only being manufactured in the Brazilian factory. And there is another special feature: RIMOWA is donating a proportion of the sales proceeds to the organization Sade e Alegria, in order to support projects in the Amazon region.

www.rimowa.com www.saudeealegria.org.bra

LCKI8KI8M

Tods B

outiques: T

el.

020.7

4932237 -

020.7

2351321

LCKI8KI8M

The original Grand Hotel has been delighting her guests since 1865. She exudes a timeless elegance,

blending a sense of the past with the style of today. She is a legendary hostess that captivates your senses

with her engaging fnesse that bears the hallmarks of a rich heritage that spans three centuries.

She will conjure memories that will be talked of for time to come.

Discover The Langham, London: langhamlondon.com

1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London, W1B 1JA T 44 (0) 20 7965 0191

Style.Elevated.

LCKI8KI8M

YOU ARE WELCOME!

You are different. That is why we have created a modern urban lifestyle experi-

ence in the cosmopolitan city of Abu Dhabi that is sure to exceed your every

expectation. Introducing Jumeirah at Etihad Towers in the heart of Abu Dhabi.

For reservations please contact +971 2 811 5888 or visit jumeirah.com

Our recognition. Your rewards | Join today at mysiriuscard.com facebook.com/Jumeirah.at.etihad.towers

LCKI8KI8M

An exclusive

luxury retreat where youll feel like royalty

Embark on a journey rich with discovery at

anantara.com

Call +971 (0)2 656 1399 oremail [email protected] enquiries and reservations.

United Arab Emirates Cambodia China Indonesia Maldives Mozambique Thailand Vietnam

Immerse yourself in elegance and sophistication in the luxurious surroundings of the Royal Pavilion Villas by Qasr Al Sarab. Create beautiful memories in a unique Arabian retreat nestled amongst towering sand dunes just a kilometre from Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, surrounded by the dramatic landscape of Abu Dhabis Empty Quarter in the United Arab Emirates.

With a host of signature touches designed to offer an extraordinary blend of exclusivity and enchantment, relax and sip cocktails by the pool of your six star private villa and drink in the captivating views, or take part in exciting desert experiences to add a dash of Arabian adventure.

Rates from GBP 975* per night

ROYAL PAVILION VILLA PACKAGE INCLUDES: Overnight accommodation for two in a one-bedroom pool villa Breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as sunset cocktails and canaps Exclusive service by your personal Villa Host Two activities** per person, per night of stay

*Conditions apply**Excludes horse riding and Liwa tour

Flying London to Abu Dhabi, starting December 2014.etihad.com/theresidence

Welcome to The Residence by Etihad

Check in to the most exclusive address in the sky: the worlds first

three-room private cabin on-board our new A380, designed for up to

two guests. Relax in the living room of The Residence, freshen up in the

ensuite shower room or rest in your own bedroom while having your every

need catered to by a personal Butler and an inflight Chef.

Only one airline could have created this remarkable travel experience.

Introducing the A380 Reimagined by Etihad

LCKI8KI8M

APPLICABLE FOR NEW BOOKINGS ONLY. BOOK BY AND TRAVEL VALIDITY DATES VARY PER RESORT. MINIMUM NIGHT STAYS AND BLACKOUT DATES MAY APPLY, PLEASE CONTACT ELEGANT RESORTS FOR FULL DETAILS. PRICES ARE PER PERSON BASED ON TWO ADULTS SHARING IN SPECIFIC ROOM TYPES BY RESORT AND INCLUDE SELECTED ECONOMY CLASS FLIGHTS FROM LONDON. OTHER AIRPORTS AND WEEKEND DEPARTURES AVAILABLE AT A SUPPLEMENT. OFFER IS NON-TRANSFERABLE AND CANNOT BE APPLIED TO GROUP BOOKINGS. NOT COMBINABLE WITH ANY OTHER OFFERS AND MAY BE

WITHDRAWN AT ANY TIME. OTHER TERMS AND CONDITIONS MAY APPLY. ATOL 2885.

One&Only Le Saint Gran, Mauritius

From 2,315pp - Stay 7 nights, pay 4 in a Junior Suite and receive

complimentary half board. Includes economy fights, private car

transfers and UK lounge passes.

One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

From 2,845pp - Stay 7 nights, pay 5 in a Beach Villa and receive

complimentary half board and shared boat transfers.

Includes economy fights and UK lounge passes.

Save with up to 3 Nights Complimentary

One&Only Ocean Club, Bahamas

From 1,945pp - Stay 7 nights, pay 5 in a Garden View Room

and receive complimentary breakfast. Includes economy fights,

private car transfers and UK lounge passes.

One&Only Palmilla, Los Cabos, Mexico

From 2,145pp - Stay 7 nights, pay 5 in an Ocean Front Superior

Room and receive complimentary breakfast, 2 rounds of golf and

a $200 resort credit per stay. Includes economy fights,

private car transfers and UK lounge passes.

TO BOOK, PLEASE CALL ELEGANT RESORTS ON 01244 897 529

OR VISIT ELEGANTRESORTS.CO.UK

W A L D O R F A S T O R I A . C O M / T H E S T O R I E S

2 0 1 4 H i l t o n W o r l d w i d eNEW YORK

CHICAGO

GRAND WAILEA

THE BOULDERS

DUBAI

ARIZONA BILTMORE

BERLIN

JERUSALEM

PUERTO RICO

SHANGHAI

AMSTERDAM

BEIJING

ORLANDO

ROME CAVALIERI

JEDDAH

KEY WEST

PARK CITY

PANAMA

BOCA RATON

EDINBURGH

RAS AL KHAIMAH

LA QUINTA RESORT & CLUB

TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES

THE ROOSEVELT NEW ORLEANS

THE

STORIES

BEGIN

HERE

LCKI8KI8M

C A L L 0 8 0 0 0 4 6 3 3 6 2 C A P T A I N S C H O I C E . C O . U K

THE WONDERS OF INDOCHINA

Explore the bustling streets of Hanoi

Cruise on the stunning World-Heritage

listed Ha Long Bay Visit Saigon and

the Chu Chi Tunnels Enjoy a 7 night

cruise along the Mekong Visit the

Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh Watch

the sun rise over Angkor Wat.

Prices from 9,055pp twin share.

CAPE TOWN TO PETRA

Watch Africa unfold before your eyes

on Rovos Rail between Cape Town and

Pretoria Visit the impressive Victoria

Falls Go on Safari amidst the teeming

wildlife of the Masai Mara Visit the

ultra-modern city of Doha Explore the

ancient site of Petra, the rose-red city.


LEGENDS OF THE ANDES

Explore Santiago, the Chilean capital

city Discover Ecuadors historic

capital, Quito See the magnicent

Cotopaxi Volcano Ride the gravity

defying Devils Nose Railway Enjoy a

cruise on Lake Titicaca, the highest

navigable lake in the world.


BURMA: A STEP BACK IN TIME

Experience the magic of Mandalay

Discover the incomparable city of

Bagan with its 2,000 temples Visit the

monastery of Mt Popa built atop an

extinct volcano Cruise the Irrawaddy

and see the legendary leg-rowing

shermen and stilt houses of Inle Lake.


S I M P L Y T H E F I N E S T W A Y T O S E E T H E W O R L D

TR AV E L W I T H U S TO T H E W O R L D S M O S T E XOT I C D E S T I N AT I O N S

Captains Choice is the acknowledged leader in luxury touring around the world. Travelling with us, in unparalleled style, you will

discover the most inspiring, iconic and remote places on earth. You will stay in the nest available accommodation, dine on

superb locally-inspired cuisine, and be taken care of throughout by a dedicated, experienced team which even includes a doctor.

To nd out more and to see our full range of tours, please call us for our brand new brochure.

LCKI8KI8M

Visit celebritycruises.co.uk/ultra Call 0800 441 4056 Contact your travel agent

FREE UPGRADE

From an Ocean View to Balcony Stateroom

FLIGHTS

Enjoy fights to Europe with our compliments

INCREDIBLE OFFERS TO

MAKE YOUR HOLIDAY SOARHolidays are precious. Thats why we strive to make every moment of yours special. And with our new Up,

Up & Away ofers, including a free Ocean View to Balcony stateroom upgrade and free fights to Europe on

selected staterooms and sailings, youve even more reason to look forward to your next Celebrity cruise.

1. All promotions within the Up, Up & Away ofer are applicable to new bookings made between 24 Aug30 Sep 2014 on selected 2015 sailings only. 2. Z Y, X, XC, XA and W guarantee staterooms are not applicable to any promotion within the Up,

Up & Away ofer. 3. The Stateroom Upgrade promotion is applicable where the lowest Balcony stateroom matches the lowest Oceanview category and prices are per person based on 2 people sharing an applicable stateroom during the promotion

period. 4. Free fights promotion is applicable to Ocean View staterooms or above on selected Apr, May & Jun 2015 European sailings and is subject to availability. Free fights departure points vary from UK airports and are subject to availability. 5. The

Up, Up & Away promotion is not combinable with 123Go Evergreen benefts ofered onboard. 6. For full Up Up & Away ofer terms & conditions (including details of the other great ofers in the Up Up & Away Promotion), details of applicable ships,

sail dates and shipboard accommodation, please visit our website celebritycruises.co.uk. 7. For general booking terms and conditions, inclusions, cancellation charges and other information please refer to the Celebrity Cruises 2015-16 brochure,

visit celebritycruises.co.uk or contact your travel agent. 8. All fight inclusive holidays are ATOL protected. See our website for details of ATOL protection or go to go to www.caa.co.uk/ATOL 9. This publicity is issued by RCL Cruises Ltd (company no.

07366612), t/a Celebrity Cruises 3 The Heights, Brooklands, Weybridge, Surrey KT13 0NY.

/UKCelebrityCruisesWinner Best Premium

Cruise Company

Winner of 10 Cruise

Critic awards

FREE BALCONY UPGRADE

TWO FANTASTIC OFFERS

FREE FLIGHTS TO EUROPE

BOOK BY 30 SEP 14 ON SELECTED STATEROOMS/SAILINGS

IN 2015. TS & CS APPLY.

LCKI8KI8M

Moment

MAUR IT IUS REUNION MALD IVES CH INA U .A . E (2016) | LUXRESORTS.COM

The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with

the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

LCKI8KI8M

ULTRATRAVEL + ABERCROMBIE & KENT

MACHU PICCHU HIGHS

DON MCCULLINS INDIA

BEST BIG CAT SAFARIS

PLUS

WIN A HOLIDAY TO MYANMAR

ULTRAEXPERIENCES

26PAGEGUIDE

CH

AR

LES F

R

GE

R

Oruawharo Beach, Great Barrier Island

OFF-ROAD DRIVING THROUGH MOROCCO.. .

There are few other desert roads that traverse such magnicent

scenery as the one from Marrakesh to Essaouira - and few more

thrilling ways to explore it than in a convoy of Land Rover

Discovery 4x4 vehicles. The distinctive colours and variety of the rural

landscapes along the road from the Moroccan city are justly celebrated.

The Atlas Mountains, which separate the Mediterranean and Atlantic

coastlines in North Africa from the Sahara Desert, are a corridor of

ranges covered in forests and punctuated with dramatic, fertile valleys

and alongside them lies some thrilling terrain to explore, including

mountain passes and desert dunes.

A new adventurous overland tour explores the countryside, with

detours into the Atlas Mountains, accompanied by guides who can help

travellers to get the best out of these high-performance vehicles from

mastering the challenging off-road conditions to navigating the tangle

of Marrakeshs streets. Although it is an ideal break for experienced

off-road drivers, the range of terrain means drivers of all abilities can

have a go behind the wheel. Accommodation includes Sir Richard

Bransons Kasbah Tamadot a palatial Moorish-style hotel set among

landscaped gardens in the foothills of the Atlas.

. . .OR BIKING IN NEW ZEALAND?

the NEXT BIGLAND ADVENTURE

GETTY

U LTRATRAVEL + AB ERCRO M B I E & KENT

A six-day, self-drive itinerary

with Land Rover instruction

and guided visits to Marrakesh,

the High Atlas and Essaouira,

costs from 3,995 per person,

excluding ights, through

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 415

4757; abercrombiekent.co.uk).

Land Rover adventures are

available in 2015 in Iceland,

Botswana, Morocco, Tanzania

and the United States. Two wheels can sometimes beat four, especially in a country like

New Zealand, which has superb terrain for cyclists of all abilities.

A two-week trip, taking in the North and South Islands, incorporates

mountain biking in giant redwood trees and the wine country of

Napier and Blenheim. This is a food-lovers holiday, with tastings

of some of the countrys notable produce, and stays at gourmet-

food retreats, including The Farm at Cape Kidnappers.

A 15-day A&K tour costs from 9,945 per person, including ights.

Float on airYour spacious Club World seat gives you your own private space

to stretch out and relax. Busy schedule ahead? Recharge with

a long and peaceful sleep in your fully fat bed.

For the ultimate travel experience, fy First. Enjoy dedicated

service, delectable dining and when its time to sleep,

sumptuously soft bedding in your fully fat bed.

To make a reservation or fnd out more,

call Abercrombie & Kent on 0845 485 1215

or email [email protected]

CRUISING THROUGH THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE.. .

Sailing through the Northwest Passage is one of the worlds great

sea journeys. For centuries explorers and traders sought a navigable

path that would connect the Atlantic and Pacic Oceans through the

inhospitable Arctic archipelagos. The freezing environment was so

treacherous that a route was not navigated successfully until 1906 by the

Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen.

Next August, travellers can retrace part of Amundsens route on a

20-night expedition cruise from western Greenland to Russias eastern

coast. The voyage will pass several impressive fjords and glaciers en route,

including the huge, Unesco-protected Ilulissat Icefjord, one of the most

active glaciers in the world, which calves around 22 cubic miles of ice

a year. Zodiac trips, accompanied by lecturers, are offered throughout the

voyage; particularly moving are those around Beechey Island, Somerset

Island and Gjoa Haven, where Arctic explorers took refuge in freezing

conditions to wait sometimes for two years for conditions to improve.

There is exceptional wildlife viewing throughout the cruise, from 100

species of bird, and grizzly, black and polar bears, to one of the largest

populations of beluga whale, which spend much of the year in the the

fog-bound Beaufort Sea.

. . .OR CHARTERING A SUPERYACHT?

the NEXT BIGSEA ADVENTURE

ALA

MY


The 22-day Northwest

Passage expedition on board

the luxury, all-balcony Le Boreal

takes place from August 20 to

September 12 2015. It costs

from 19,680 per person, based

on two sharing, excluding

international ights, through

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 482

0707; abercrombiekent.co.uk).

The exclusive Australian island of Orpheus is just across the water

from Townsville in Queensland. Flit across by helicopter, and take over

a beach-front villa, before chartering the private, fully crewed 130ft

Flying Fish yacht (with its own helipad and helicopter, and berths for

eight) to view islands, wildlife and the blue expanse of the Pacic.

A 14-night A&K trip, including 10 nights on Orpheus Island and

private charter of the Flying Fish superyacht for four nights, costs

from 21,200 per person, all-inclusive, including ights.

Day 3 Day 4 Day 5 Day 6 Day 1 Day 2

*Price is based on two people travelling, sharing a double room, 9 days 8 nights, 5* plus wilderness lodges. Price includes Economy international flights, transfers, select activities, all meals and local drinks at Siwash Lake Ranch and Sonora Resort. Price

excludes bear viewing and wilderness activites at Sonora, meals in Vancouver. Credit card fees may apply at time of booking. Valid for travel from 02 Jun 15 25 Jun 15. Offer is subject to availability and can change without notification due to fluctuations in

charges and currency. ABTA 72314. Price correct at time of going to print. For more information, please call Abercrombie & Kent on 0845 322 0429, email [email protected] or visit www.abercrombiekent.co.uk

www.abercrombiekent.co.uk/ultracanada8 nights. Terms & conditions apply. Email [email protected] for more information.

From

5,875*

per person

Luxury British Columbia, Ranches & Wilderness.

Sarah Collins, July 10th Pacific Coast | British Columbia

We met a lovely couple today on our travels.

FLYING BY PRIVATE JET TO THE WORLDS MOST FAMOUS SIGHTS.. .

Aprivate jet, chartered to y to long-haul destinations, makes air

travel thrilling again, rather than merely exhausting. Thats

especially the case when the aircraft has seats that recline into

fully at beds. From next September, travellers can take a round-the-

world tour on board a luxury private Boeing 757 with 50 fully reclining

seats that each have more than 6.5ft of leg room. The trip, which lasts

24 days, is a whirlwind tour of some of the worlds most memorable

sights. It begins in Peru with a visit to Machu Picchu, before ying on to

Easter Island in Polynesia to see the enormous stone moai: mysterious,

monolithic gures that were abandoned before completion. The ight

goes on to Samoa, followed by a stop in Sydney (with dinner and a

private performance in Sydney Opera House) and then to Siem Reap

in Cambodia to see the largest religious monument in the world, the

great Khmer temples of Angkor Wat, which date from the 9th century.

From there, the ight heads west to India to visit the Taj Mahal at Agra.

Private tours of Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Basilica Cistern in

Istanbul, followed by a night camping under the stars in the Sahara

Desert and a tour of Marrakesh in Morocco, complete a journey packed

with celebrated sights. Best not forget the camera for this one.

. . .OR HELI-TOURING IN CANADA?

the NEXT BIGAIR ADVENTURE

4CORNERS; A

P; C

ORBIS


A 24-day Wonders of the

World by Private Jet tour,

departing on September 17 2015,

costs from 67,500 per person,

double occupancy, through

Abercrombie & Kent

(0845 485 1518;

abercrombiekent.co.uk).

Private Jet Journeys are offered

to destinations around the

world, from the Amazon

and Africa to India. Time-poor adventure junkies can hop in a helicopter to tour the

wilderness of British Columbia, Canada, in just four days. The trip goes

across glaciers, forest, lakes and remote hot springs, and stops for

activities such as rafting, shing and wildlife watching. Gourmet meals

are served at a chalet resort, where soaks in outdoor hot tubs help

the body to unwind at the end of a satisfyingly exhausting day.

The four-day A&K tour costs from 6,965 per person, including ights,

transfers and three nights at Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort.

FESTIVAL FEVERNo country on earth enjoys showing off its culture as

joyfully or colourfully as India. In a celebration of seven

of its greatest festivals, the acclaimed photographer

Don McCullin reflects on his life-long love affair with

the subcontinent, while the historian William Dalrymple

explores the rewards of setting up a festival from scratch


INDIA IS AT ITS MOST BEAUTIFUL WHEN IT IS WAKING UP AND GOING TO SLEEP. THE LIGHT IS LIKE A MONET

Don McCullin celebrates 40 years of

visiting Indian festivals, during which hes

photographed camel-markets, lepers

and Mark Shand arriving by elephant

The thing I possibly love most about

India is that its always joyful. Its

impossible not to have your spirit

lifted there, or to be moved. Of all

the countries in the world Ive visited

and there have been many, given

that Ive been travelling since I was five years old, when

I was evacuated from London it is India that has stolen

my heart. Its not just the landscapes and colour, but the

people. They have such soul, and theyre curious; they

always want to learn. Also, if youre cross with them, they

will always forgive you and make out that its their fault,

which is very charming.

Theyre incredibly patient, too; at festivals like the

camel fair at Pushkar there are now more tourists than

camels, and yet, even when dozens of people are pushing

cameras in the traders faces, they always remain placid,

selling their animals and getting on with business.

In England wed tell people to get out of our away, but

they dont lose their cool.

I spent so many years as a war photographer as

people like to call me, which I dont particularly like as its

like being called an executioner or hangman capturing

peoples pain. Whereas, India is all about healing. Its not

about war or famines or revolution or death; its about life

and beauty. Going to a festival, Im instantly on a high,

happy to be among the nicest people on earth.

I first went to the Sonepur Mela, the great elephant fair,

in 1987 with my [late] friend Mark Shand, and Tara, the

elephant he crossed 600 miles of the country on. I joined

him on the last 60 miles, and when we got to the Mela,

we put up tents in a little enclosure made of colourful

Indian drapes that became our little fiefdom. To me,

having my own tent was very luxurious. I am a real

traveller, and can sleep anywhere on earth; I could sleep

on broken glass if I had to not that I want to now.

Im 78 and my legs arent as strong as they were.

In the past four decades that Ive been travelling to

India, Ive been to three festivals, several times: Sonepur

Mela, the elephant and animal fair; Pushkar, the camel

fair; and Kumbh Mela, at Allahabad on the Ganges, which

I went to last year with one of my sons, and in 1965 with

the travel writer Eric Newby. The scenes are almost

Biblical: millions of Indians in white dhotis crossing the

Gandak River, and then setting up camp.

In this sea of humanity, not every person can take the

smells of elephant dung and human excrement and food,

and smoke from a million fires. But its full of such spirit

and life that you cant help but be swept up in it all: the

masses doing their pujas [ritual prayers] in the river; the

mahouts bathing their elephants and scrubbing them with

a pumice stone which the creatures love; the medieval-

looking people. Every part of society is there: men in

beautiful turbans, farmers, sadhus, lepers being pushed

around in carts, cooks stirring soup in vats the size of cars.

It would be difficult to take a bad picture first thing in

the morning, even if you were blindfolded. The light is like

a Monet. Once the sun comes up, and music starts to blast

out of speakers, its impossible to sleep, so you have to get

up. Life starts early here, with pilgrims burning the one-

rupee of straw theyve bought to sleep on, to try to get some

warmth into their bones, and then cooking and bathing.

India is at its most beautiful when its waking up and

going to sleep: seeing people in golden light taking their

animals to drink, in a sea of smoke, which softens

everything. Sometimes on prints, these images seem

slightly chocolate-boxy, but actually being there and

seeing them with your own eyes is magical. Ive tried to

take each of my sons on a trip to India; I hate the word

Morning rituals Photograph

taken in the Eighties by Don

McCullin of a dawn scene in

which festival-goers bathe with

an elephant and its mahout

DO

N M

CC

ULL

IN

desperate to catch a glimpse of thigh that there are huge

crowds, pushing and trying to get near; the girls have to

perform behind barbed wire to protect themselves.

India has changed enormously in the time Ive been

visiting it. Theres more noise now, and plastic, and

western dress. But festivals are still places to see its

beauty, its traditions: at Pushkar, the handsome

Rajasthanis with their Sinbad trousers, pointed shoes,

cummerbunds, turbans and glorious big moustaches,

or the Gujaratis in their colourful saris. Or the sadhus,

who come to be fed and housed and looked after.

In India, I love going to bed in winter and finding

a hot-water bottle and being woken with bed-tea. Even

at festivals, in the middle of nowhere, people find time for

such kindnesses. I dont idolise many people, but I do

idolise the Indians.

Interview by Lisa Grainger

bonding, but I want them to create a lasting memory and

India is a place you cant forget. Last year I took my eldest

son to the Pushkar Camel Fair and the Kartika Purnima,

which is the night of the full moon. Its a bit touristy now,

and camels are the most unpleasant animals, as I

discovered by travelling on them when I covered the

Eritrean war. They suffer from syphilis, and the foam from

their mouth gets all over your clothes.

Elephants, by comparison, are wonderful creatures.

People really worship them; they are the physical

representation of the god Ganesha, and to get near one is

hugely exciting. When I went with Mark, we were the only

westerners and there were about 120 elephants; last year,

sadly, there were only about 20, as elephants are now very

expensive to keep. But theres still a lively market for

horses and cows, and a theatrical event, where girls dance

with bits of their clothing removed. The men are often so

JAIPUR LITERATURE FESTIVAL

JANUARY 21-25 2015

The historian and writer William Dalrymple on the birth of his annual Indian book celebration: now the biggest free literary festival in the world

In 2004, 10 days after I moved my family to a new life in

India, I gave a reading at a small palace on the edge of

Jaipur. Fourteen people turned up, of whom 10 were

Japanese tourists who had got lost. The next year,

I helped organise a modest literary programme of 18

authors. Two failed to show up, but with the aid of my

co-director, Namita Gokhale, we gathered a respectable

audience of nearly 100 people.

Festivals, like children, have their own lives. As a

festival director, you do all you can to make your offspring

flourish: choose the best location and time of year, plan

the food and the drink and the lighting, design beautiful

tents, fill them with the bright, the brilliant and the

beautiful from across the world. But at a certain point you

have to let go, and look on with hope as your baby makes

its own way into the world. I have, and eight years later,

the Jaipur Literature Festival (jaipurliteraturefestival.org)

has become the largest free lit-fest in the world. Today my

colleagues have to wrestle with staggering logistics. Last

year, they cooked 14,700 hot meals, booked 1,800 hotel

nights for 240 participants, sold 10,000 books and hosted

75,000 people a day, adding up to around quarter of a

million punters in all. And thats not counting the evening

music programme which gathered similar-sized crowds.

One reason for our success is Jaipur itself, one of the

worlds most beautiful cities, and one that has a rich

literary and cultural tradition of its own, as well as the

most wonderfully benign late-January climate. My heart

always lifts as I leave fog-bound Delhi and hit the Jaipur

highway. Within a couple of hours you find yourself amid

sunlit mustard fields, camel-carts and Rajasthani turbans

of bright, primary colours. By the end, you are driving past

the bastions of the Amber Fort and city walls improbably

running near-vertically up the Aravalli mountains.

One of the joys of the festival is that it is a properly

festive festival. The buildings are festooned with bunting,

there are hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts milling

around (including an abnormally large number of

students and beautiful women), we let off fireworks at

night and after 6.30pm the writers have to shut up and

give the stages over to music and dancing. My favourite

review last year was from Time Out: Its settled. Jaipur

is officially the Woodstock and Live 8 of world literature.

Frankfurt and the Booker are like watching the Pope sleep

compared to an ambience that can best be described as

James Joyce meets Monsoon Wedding...

One thing we have always insisted on is that the

festival is completely free and open to all. Anyone can

turn up we are completely egalitarian.

WHERE TO STAY The Jai Mahal Palace (tajhotels.com/

jaimahalpalace) was once the home of the Prime Minister of Jaipur

and is set in 18 acres of Mughal gardens.

CONSTANCE EPHLIA

Nestled between two of the best beaches on Mah, Constance Ephlia has something for all. For families there are activities galore including: zip-lining, climbing walls, tortoise park and endless water-sports. For honeymooners, the privacy of the

Spa and Hillside Villas is unbeatable. For everyone else, there are two fantastic beaches to choose from, the largest spa in

the Indian Ocean, world-class food and wine, plus a variety of suites and villas to suit dif erent budgets.

DENIS PRIVATE ISLAND

On the northern edge of the Seychelles lagoon lies this tiny jewel of an island, 375 acres of lush vegetation hugged by pristine beaches

and surrounded by crystal clear waters. Boasting only 25 guest cottages, here you can be certain to leave the outside world far

behind. T is stunning retreat of ers an authentic island experience; a world of exploration, world class f shing, diving and so much more.

Experience Denis Private IslandExperience barefoot Luxury.

CONSTANCE LMURIA

Welcome to paradise and a Leading Hotel of the World! Set on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (fact!), Anse Georgette, Constance Lemuria, Seychelles, of ers

luxurious suite and villa accommodation, the only 18-hole golf course in the Seychelles, f ne-dining, and divine

beaches, not forgetting the award winning Shiseido spa.

To make a reservation or to f nd out more, call Abercrombie & Kent

on 0845 322 0432 or email [email protected]

FLY EMIRATES FROM A CHOICE OF 6 UK AIRPORTS TO THE SEYCHELLES. ENJOY

WORLD-CLASS SERVICE, MULTI-COURSE GOURMET CUISINE AND UP TO 1,800

CHANNELS OF THE LATEST AWARD-WINNING ENTERTAINMENT.

THE SEYCHELLES. PARADISE FOUND.

3 48 19.1844 S

55 40 3.2736 E

4 39 20.4840 S

55 24 17.816 E

4 17 57.5808 S

55 40 45.019 E

CH

RIS

CA

LDIC

OTT;

AM

AR

GR

OV

ER

; 4C

OR

NE

RS; A

LAM

Y; L

AIF

/CA

ME

RA

PR

ESS; G

ETTY; R

EX


NAGAUR WORLD SUFI

SPIRIT FESTIVAL

FEBRUARY 9-12 2015

PUSHKAR MELA OCTOBER 30-NOVEMBER 6 2014

Ladakh, Indias so-called Little Tibet, is a

hauntingly beautiful Himalayan region watered

by the Indus River. Among its craggy mountains and

myriad valleys veined with hiking trails stand

picturesque villages and hill-hugging Buddhist

monasteries. As the summer tourist season winds

down in mid-September, the government-organised

Ladakh Festival lends Leh, the Ladakhi capital,

a final flourish of colour.

Partly because much of the regions cultural life

normally occurs in winter, it promotes aspects of

Ladakhi culture that visitors might not otherwise see.

Amid clashing cymbals and thudding drums, bleating

flutes and honking horns, it starts with processions of

various regional and ethnic groups in traditional

clothes. Many women come adorned with eye-

catching peraks headdresses encrusted with

chunks of turquoise brocade cloaks and felt shoes

with up-turned pointy toes.

Apart from music, folk dancing and archery

competitions, one of the festivals main attractions are

polo matches played in a dusty ground framed by the

former royal palace and stark rocky ridges. Teams like

the Ladakh Scouts and Animal Husbandry

compete for the Ladakh Festival Cup up here its a

rougher game thanks to the locals gung-ho attitude.

But for most, elaborate cham dances are the

highlight of the festival. Monks sporting lavish

multicoloured robes and fearsome masks depicting

demons and spirits turn and twirl, duck and wheel

about as if possessed. For Ladakhis its a form of

meditation and spiritual instruction. For tourists its a

great spectacle. And for both its great entertainment.

WHERE TO STAY The Golden Dragon hotel

(thegranddragonladakh.com), Leh, sits in a

spectacular location with views of the Himalayas.

AMAR GROVER

Fantastic chaos of colour, crowds,

noise, processions, artistry pervades

Bengal at the start of autumn with Durga

Puja. Dedicated to the great mother

goddess Durga who protects mankind and

destroys evil, the festival reaches the zenith

of flamboyance in Calcutta, where it takes

place over five days.

The high-octane jamboree is celebrated

with so much energy that it often leaves

visitors with sensory overload. At least

2,000 elaborate pop-up temples, or

pandals, are devised across the city, each

of which contains images of Durga who

traditionally has a divine eye in her forehead

and many arms to signify might, dexterity

and protective qualities. Amid much beating

of large dhak drums, the images are revered

in the pandals for several days and then

carried away in vibrant processions to be

immersed in the Hooghly River.

Although the festival is devoted to Durga,

over the past couple of decades it has

become as much about the pandals

themselves, and most visitors go pandal-

hopping to admire the creations, which

range from traditional-looking temples of

bamboo and jute cloth to wonders

modelled out of Styrofoam. Highlights of

this colourful display of spirit and artistry

include an exhibition at a mini Pompidou

Centre with all artworks, of course,

featuring the goddess Durga.

WHERE TO STAY The Oberoi Grand

Calcutta (oberoihotels.com), a heritage

hotel in the heart of the city that fuses

Victorian and traditional Indian styles.

HARRIET OBRIEN

This annual festival, held since 2008 in the absurdly

romantic setting of Ahhichatragarh Fort, is a

serious music festival. It embraces every genre of Sufi

music, poetry and dance, from the hypnotic rhythms

of Pakistani qawwali to dreamy Persian ghazal love

songs, Punjabi kafi poetry, the haunting harmonies of

itinerant Bengali Bauls, the Andalusian Arabic

instrumentals of Moroccan Nubas and the

mesmerising twirling of whirling dervishes.

Performances start early in the morning and go on

until very late at night, and are held at different

locations around the vast grounds of the magnificent

hilltop fort; you will hear music in ornate garden

pavilions, on open-air stages under the moonlight and

within intimate candlelit courtyards.

Its a strictly residents-only affair, and thus has

the friendly atmosphere of a private party, with meals

included and a mobile cocktail bar set up each night

in a different part of the fort. Guests can choose

between an Indian version of glamping in the

luxurious Royal Camp in the castle grounds, or the

even more glamorous Ranvas Nagaur.

WHERE TO STAY Ranvas Nagaur (ranvasnagaur.

com) is a restored former Mughal residence of the

Queens of Jodphur, set in Ahhichatragarh Fort.

CHRIS CALDICOTT

Once every year, the hamlet of Pushkar a

remote collection of cobalt blue buildings,

edged with whitewashed temples that fringe the

shore of a tranquil lake in the Thar Desert of

Rajasthan erupts into a cacophonous frenzy of

colour, music, prayer, incense, magic and

madness. By the night of the full moon of Kartika

Purnima (October/November) a quarter of a

million semi-nomadic Rajput camel and cattle

herders have set up camps in the desert around

the oasis, with all their herds around them. For

five days and nights this is the biggest livestock

fair in India, attracting snake-charmers,

storytellers, acrobats, conjurers, mystics, snake-

oil sellers, tourists and traders of paraphernalia

to do with camels. Wandering minstrels sing for

their supper as they move between the

thousands of camp fires. There is a funfair with

giant ferris wheels, camel races, food stalls,

moustache-twisting and turban-tying contests

and live bands. The mela reaches a crescendo

when, under the rising full moon, the chanting

pilgrims launch butter-lamps on tiny leaf-boats

into the sacred lake, then take a ritual dip in the

waters to cleanse themselves of sin.

WHERE TO STAY Green House Resort

(thegreenhouseresort.com), an eco-retreat ten

minutes drive from Pushkar, is an idyllic base

from which to explore this holy city.

CHRIS CALDICOTT

Come sundown, the typical fortress in Rajasthan

and there are plenty is cleared of visitors by

guards and watchmen. Bats return to roost in their

arched pavilions; quaint cupolas and near empty

citadels stand as compelling monuments to another

martial age.

Yet for a few days in autumn during the brightest

full moon, Jodhpurs huge Mehrangarh Fort, which

looms over the city on a stark hillside, embraces a

unique event starting just before dawn and continuing

well into the night. Backed by the Maharajah of

Jodhpur, the Rajasthan International Folk Festival

(RIFF) showcases singers and musicians drawn mainly

from Rajasthan and elsewhere in India. Some are

well-known on Indias music scene; others have rarely

performed outside their own communities and, in this

respect, RIFF is helping to reinvigorate a centuries-old

yet long-faded tradition of artistic patronage.

Its not just an Indian groove. An international

dimension is lent by a range of foreign artists for

example a Nordic folk trio, Anglo-Caribbean

electronica or a Spanish flamenco troupe. Last years

high-profile guest was Manu Chao. RIFF deliberately

blurs musical boundaries: expect fusion, impromptu

multi-ethnic jams and late-night clubby sets in a

medieval courtyard beside the royal gardens.

WHERE TO STAY Raas Jodphur (raasjodhpur.com),

Jodphurs first boutique hotel, has spectacular views

of Mehrangarh Fort.

AMAR GROVER

RIFF MUSIC FESTIVAL

OCTOBER 8-12 2014

DURGA PUJA SEPTEMBER 29-OCTOBER 4 2014

LADAKH FESTIVAL

SEPTEMBER 20-26 2014

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 485 4752;

abercrombiekent.co.uk) can tailor-make tours

incorporating these festivals. Itineraries include

a 14-night trip to India, taking in Jaipur, Delhi,

Agra, Udaipur, and both the RIFF festival and

Pushkar Camel Festival in Rajasthan, from 4,395

per person, with British Airways flights, local

transfers, and b&b accommodation.

The haunting, spiritual beauty of the ruined city of

Machu Picchu seduces even the most seasoned traveller.

Adrian Bridge discovers the most inspiring way to experience

the highs of this 15th-century Inca city, from arriving by

Pullman train to seeing the site from a private pool

ON TOP OF THE WORLD

Natural mystic Machu Picchu,

which sits 7,970ft above sea

level, held a profound religious

significance for the Incas. It was

mysteriously abandoned in the

16th century, only 100 years

after construction

The gods of the mountains keeping watch over Machu Picchu

have such a delicious sense of humour.

Take the case of Mick Jagger. The perennial rocker

wanted to see the sacred site without the attentions of the

paparazzi, or the distractions of hoi polloi. And the gods or

the apus as they are known in these parts granted this long-standing

fan of Peru his wish, allowing him the very rare privilege of private

access to the wonders over which they are custodians. But at the

appointed hour of the viewing so legend has it the heavens opened

and those magical, mystical ruins were obscured by cloud.

Poor old Sir Mick. Some people just cant get no satisfaction.

I was reminded of this tale as I lay awake in bed listening to the

wind and the frequent flurries of rain in the night preceding what I had

hoped was to be the indescribably uplifting experience of watching the

sun rise over Machu Picchu.

A great deal of time, trouble and expenditure had been involved in

the build-up to this moment. My wife, celebrating a significant birthday

FLY TO 115 DESTINATIONS

WITHIN SOUTH AMERICA

Contact Telegraph Ultra at [email protected] or 0845 485 1281

FLY AWAY TO THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS AND DISCOVER A PARADISE OF BIODIVERSITY

Discover the thousands of unique species

that call the Galapagos Islands home

from the cormorants that have forgotten

how to y, to the fascinating giant tortoises

and birds with coloured feet.

Choose LAN and TAM, the

leading airlines of South

America, to connect with

these enchanting islands and

6 other destinations in Ecuador.


MIST ENVELOPED US; THEN, THRILLINGLY, A GAP APPEARED, AND WE CAUGHT A GLIMPSE OF THE SACRED STONES

4C

OR

NE

RS

(I wouldnt dream of revealing which one), had been

harbouring a deep desire to go to Machu Picchu ever

since it had been the subject of a project at her primary

school; I, too like many counted it among the

handful of sights that simply had to be seen.

It looked as though our moment of magic, too, was

going to be a damp squib. But then something rather

wonderful happened. As dawn drew close, the rain

became less insistent and the magnificent mountains

slowly regained their contours.

It got better. As we entered the site on the dot of 6am

(the earliest anyone other than very, very important

people can get in), it felt as though we were walking in

the midst of clouds. Mist surrounded us, weaving its way

playfully up the fern-filled hillsides. Then, thrillingly, a

little gap would appear, revealing the beautifully jagged

tops of the mountains in the distance; finally, there were

flashes of the sacred stones themselves; intimations of

that cluster of buildings and temples and terraces that,

for their architectural genius and the aesthetic beauty

of their setting, have rightly come to be viewed as one of

the true wonders of the modern world. It may have been

a little drizzly, but there was something mesmerising

about this now-you-see-me-now-you-dont game that

was being played. Our imaginations were free to run

wild; it was indescribably uplifting.

Having decided that this was a trip of a lifetime, we

certainly werent going to risk all on the randomness of

what the weather would be like on any one particular

day or indeed afternoon, the time allotted to the many

who travel here on a day-trip excursion from the ancient

Inca capital of Cusco. We were also thankful that wed

made the trip when we did, given that the governor of

Cusco is considering opening the site until 8pm, which

will allow double the number of visitors to visit.

We had waited a long time for this and wanted to

treat ourselves to the luxury of time to enjoy it: time to

savour it from many different angles and perspectives

and times of the day. We wanted to be transported back

to the 15th century when Inca power was at its zenith

and to be able to absorb some of the facts and myths

about the people who lived and worked here. We wanted

to be able to marvel at the exquisite precision of the

brickwork and a drainage system that is still perfectly

functional. We wanted time to stop and take stock. We

wanted time, too, to be able to leave the site when we felt

wed had enough and return later, refreshed.

We also wanted to do it in style (after all you dont

turn 29 every day), spending one night in the Belmond

(formerly Orient Express) Sanctuary Lodge Machu

Picchu, the only hotel located right beside the entrance

to the site, and two nights in the Inkaterra Machu

Picchu Pueblo Hotel in Aguas Calientes, the small

settlement on the Urubamba River about six miles below

the ruins and a great spot in which to immerse yourself

in the flora and fauna of the cloud forest. We also

decided that, tempting though a four-day hike along the

fabled Inca Trail sounded, our own pilgrimage to Machu

Picchu would be by the Belmond Hiram Bingham the

luxuriously appointed train named after the American

explorer who, in June 1911, discovered the site

untouched since it was abandoned mysteriously by the

Incas at some point in the mid 16th century.

That first sighting of Machu Picchu (old mountain

in the Quechua language) did not disappoint. It was a

brilliantly sunny afternoon (we had spent the morning

travelling from Cusco in the splendour of an art-deco,

polished-wood Pullman carriage and had been wined,

dined, serenaded and pisco-soured splendidly along the

Sacred Valley); the hillsides were a vivid green; llamas

roamed freely. Yes, there were lots of other tourists, but

its a big site and when we finally turned a corner and set

eyes on the citadel, framed by the unmistakable form of

Huayna Picchu, the young mountain behind it, my wife

had to ask the guide to spare us the history for a few

Journey to the interior The Hiram Bingham Pullman train,

top, winds its way through the Sacred Valley. Above: a vividly

coloured Andean cock-of-the-rock. Below: a bedroom

at Belmond Sanctuary Lodge Machu Picchu

moments as we took in the magnitude of the scene before

us. There are some world-famous sites that dont quite

live up to the hype. Machu Picchu is not one of them.

As we walked, we were given a potted history of how

this extraordinary settlement came into being. It had

been built in the 15th century during the reign of the

greatest of all Inca emperors, Pachacuti, by teams of

labourers drawn from all parts of an empire that, at its

peak, stretched from Ecuador in the north to Argentina

in the south. It had a practical function the protected

terraces were for the cultivation of crops and a deeply

spiritual one, as seen in buildings such as the Temple of

the Sun and the Sacred Plaza. Although inhabited for

just a few decades, it was reserved for the elite of Inca

society: royals, intellectuals and astronomers, some of

whom would have been entitled to the attentions of the

Virgins of the Sun, the women who, from a young age,

were set aside to serve as concubines to the powerful

and even, in some cases, to be sacrificed to the gods.

We reflected on all this later with Marc Yeterian, the

genial Frenchman who manages Belmond Sanctuary

Lodge and who took us on a tour of the orchid garden

behind the lodge, the hot pool (with partial views of the

citadel) and the matted area overlooking the mountains,

which must be the most inspirational place in the world

from which to practise yoga.

In addition to enjoying the luxury of being right

next to the site, we want people to appreciate the

incredible natural environment here, said Marc.

We want them to tap into its spiritual energy.

In a previous incarnation, Marc was employed in

Aguas Calientes in the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo

Hotel, the place to which we retreated after our second

day of exploration of the site. That was a mist-filled,

cloud-swept day, which, in its own way, proved equally

magical and included a climb to the top of Huayna

Picchu (steep, slippery and sensational) and a stroll up to

the Sun Gate, the point at which those who have trekked

the Inca Trail get their first sighting of the citadel.

After such exertions, the Inkaterra Machu Picchu

Pueblo Hotel was a perfect place in which to unwind

and to wake to the sound of humming birds.

Set in 22 acres of lush cloud forest, this pioneering

eco-chic lodge offers nature walks (there are 372 types

of orchid in its grounds), an encounter with the Andean

spectacled bear and a twilight walk to learn about

ancient myths and gaze at the stars of the Southern

Cross. Here, too, you can enjoy massages involving

Andean hot stones and eat quinoa pancakes and

eucalyptus ice cream for breakfast.

Mick Jagger stayed here during that fateful, rain-

soaked private visit to Machu Picchu in 2011. Gimme

Shelter, he must have pleaded, and again his prayers

were answered.

WHERE TO STAY

Belmond Sanctuary Lodge

The only hotel right next to Machu

Picchu, Sanctuary Lodge offers direct

access to the site, enabling you to be

among the first to enter at 6am. The hotel

is nothing special to look at, but the

location is unbeatable and it comes

into its own once the day trippers have

left (belmond.com).

Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel

This pioneering eco-tourist venture has

85 whitewashed casitas in the lush

surroundings of the cloud forest. Take

a leaf out of Mick Jaggers book and treat

yourself to a stay in the Inkaterra Villa:

two beautiful adjoining suites, each with

a plunge pool and butler (inkaterra.com).

HOW TO GET THERE

The Belmond Hiram Bingham train

Although, at just 57 miles, the journey

by train from Cusco to Machu Picchu

(or Aguas Calientes) is hardly epic, it

does involve going through spectacular

landscape gorges, rivers and forests

against rugged mountain backdrops.

Enjoy the view over cocktails and a three-

course lunch. A three-piece band plays

popular classics not the most stylish

experience, but fun (belmond.com).

Luxury tip To get to Machu Picchu

you will probably fly into Lima. Instead

of heading straight to Cusco, check into

the funky Hotel B boutique arts hotel

(hotelb.pe) in the bohemian district of

Barranco. Soak up the art and sign up

for a foodie tour with chef Penelope

Alzamora and learn how to make the

finest ceviche in Lima.

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 485 4752;

abercrombiekent.co.uk) offers an eight-

day journey to Peru including all flights,

b&b accommodation, train tickets and

private guided tours of Machu Picchu

and Cusco from 3,800 per person.

ULTRA GUIDE TO SEEING MACHU PICCHU IN STYLE


There is no creature more thrilling to see in the wild than a big cat. Richard Madden speaks to five leading wildlife experts

to find out what makes the lion, tiger, leopard, cheetah and jaguar so compelling to watch and where best to see them

TOP CATS

Mane event A lion prowls close

to a safari vehicle. Male lions live short,

violent, intense lives, while their female

counterparts can live around six years longer

PHOTOGRAPH Dana Allen/Wilderness Safaris

LION JONATHAN SCOTT is a zoologist, wildlife writer and photographer, and presenter of the BBCs Big Cat Diary

Lions are not just a symbol of Africa. For

centuries flags have been emblazoned

with them the very flags that have led people

into battle. And for good reason, as lions are the

ultimate warriors. You only have to watch a male

lion sniffing the air and gazing out over its

kingdom with its mane blowing in the wind to

see it and feel it.

But what most people dont realise is what

a short, intense life a male lion often lives. They

may be the king of the beasts, terrorising almost

anything, even elephants, and armed to the

teeth. But life for lions is ruled by the threat of

violence or exercising violence. Theres a lot

of roaring, threatening and cuffing without their

claws completely out, but they will fight to the

death over access to territory with a group of

females they can control. If you dont breed

youre nothing in lion society. Its a brutal world.

And once dominant, a lion has to fight

constantly to stay dominant. Just one breeding

cycle, and three years as a resident male in

a pride, is a good run. A male lion that reaches

12 years old is an absolute star, whereas females

can often reach 18 years.

But for my wife, Angie, the best thing about

lions is that theyre the only truly sociable big

cats. If you find one in the wild, youll probably

find 10 or even 20 in the rest of the pride.

The Marsh pride, for example, in the Maasai

Mara, which I have followed since 1977, is now

made up of three different groups of females in

different stages of their life. You can watch a

pride of lions for hour after hour and never get

bored. Theres always something going on.

Where to stay Sanctuary Olonana, Kenya

is a luxury tented camp on the banks of the

Mara River and a superb place to see lions, as

are camps in the Okavango Delta and other

camps in the Moremi Game Reserve.

An eight-day Kenyan safari, with three

nights at Sanctuary Olonana, watching

Mara lions, costs from 3,475 per person,

through Abercrombie & Kent.


THE TIGER IS THE LARGEST BIG CAT AND THE ULTIMATE PREDATOR

Burning bright Dinner is served,

top, by the pool at Sher Bagh, near

Ranthambore National Park in

India, one of the best places to see

tigers, left. Sher Bagh offers

colonial-style decor and personal

service, right, in its peaceful,

spacious tented accommodationCOU

RTE

SY

OF A

NJA

LIA

ND

JAIS

AL

SIN

GH

, SH

ER

BA

GH

, RA

NTH

AM

BH

OR

E

For me, tigers are the most mesmerising

of all the worlds mammals. When you see

them out in the open they are outrageously

patterned and coloured, almost flaming, but when

they reach the jungle their camouflage is so good

they simply vanish.

They are the largest of the big cats and the

ultimate predators. To survive they need to be

supremely fit as they cant depend on a pride, like

lions, but are very solitary and secretive. Their

favourite prey are wild boar and deer and they

spend hours stalking. Even so, only about one in

10 pursuits ends in a kill, so its hard work.

When they mate, a male can smell a tigress is in

oestrus and grabs her by the neck and their mating

is very noisy and looks very aggressive. Then they

will mate constantly for a few days, many, many

times. Tigresses mate with more than one partner

so all the competing males think her cubs are his

and then wont kill them.

Tigers breed well if they have enough space and

a good source of food and water. But they also

need protection or they will not survive in the wild

as theyve now become walking cash registers for

organised wildlife criminals who bribe villagers to

give them information on a tigers location.

Half of the worlds remaining tigers live in India

(around 1,500). But they are very elusive creatures

and the best places to see them are where they

are most used to tourist vehicles, like Ranthambore

National Park. For a more private viewing I would

suggest the mangrove forests of Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve in West Bengal or Bandhavgarh National

Park in Madhya Pradesh.

Where to stay Oberoi Vanyavilas

or Sher Bagh, both of which offer luxury tented

accommodation and are on the borders of

Ranthambore National Park.

A 14-day Rajasthan trip, with three nights

at Sher Bagh and guiding with a tiger

specialist, costs from 3,840 per person


TIGER BELINDA WRIGHT is the director and founder of the Wildlife

Protection Society of India (wpsi-india.org), which focuses on anti-poaching


The contrast between the cheetahs

fragility and efficiency and its tender

killer aura is what fascinates us most. Their

speed sets them aside, but also their habit of

climbing up large termite mounts or fallen

trees to get a better vantage point. This

means that, as a photographer, you can

read them when theyre on the move and

have a better chance of getting into position

for a great image.

One key factor about cheetah is that they

are small. They have spots, not rosettes like

leopards. But most notably they have these

black teardrop-shaped facial markings. They

evolved these marks to confuse prey that

might want to stab at their eyes with horns

or with a kick, so when the cheetah closes

its eye, a black line hides its position.

They dont have fully retractable claws like

other cats, so when they are in full chase

their claws perform the same function as a

sprinters spikes. This is particularly important

when chasing after prey that is running in

zigzags, making the cheetah turn as well.

Bigger cats often lose their prey when an

animal does this.

Cheetah prefer open grasslands. The

Maasai Mara in Kenya is superb for viewing,

but private conservancies such as Olare

Motorogi, where there are fewer vehicles,

are even better and the cheetah density is

higher. The Serengeti is also amazing in

Feburary when the grass is short. Big cats

are not just symbols; they are also the glue

that holds the fabric of ecosystems together.

If you want to understand Africa, you have

to understand the big cats. Theyre in real

trouble weve lost 95 per cent of them in

50 years. Cheetah now number under 8,000

and were really worried about them.

Where to stay Tswalu Kalahari (above)

in South Africas Kalahari, or Sanctuary

Kusini in Tanzania, which has a Serengeti

Cheetah Project.

A 12-day safari through Tanzania,

including three nights at Sanctuary

Kusini, costs from 5,195 per person


Watching wild leopards is like

watching poetry in motion. Theyre

incredibly self-sufficient, powerful and

majestic, and a real thrill to watch. Probably

their most noticeable characteristic is the

way their eyes appear to see right through

you. But theyre also very solitary animals and

highly adaptable, so you can see them in

many different habitats. Its finding them in

the wild thats the tricky part; its really up to

them whether they choose to be seen or not.

Their incredible agility when theyre in

trees is unique among the big cats. They can

lift two-thirds of their own body weight into

the highest of branches if necessary, and

their hunting technique is explosive and very

exciting to watch. Their adaptability gives

them a vast range of prey from small

rodents all the way up to a nyala [large

antelope], which a large male leopard is quite

capable of taking down. I would say their

favourite prey species would be impala.

Theyre very solitary creatures and prefer

hunting under cover of darkness. Having said

that, I have seen them hunt during the

middle of the day, taking opportunities as

they arise. One of my most memorable

sightings was a young leopardess catching

an impala by dropping out of the branches of

a marula tree.

Its always wonderful to see them in the

open savannah or resting in the branches of

an ebony tree in the Sabi Sand Game

Reserve, for example, but I would also

recommend Luangwa National Park in

Zambia. Zarafa Camp in Botswana has some

wonderfully special sightings and our own

Londolozi Game Reserve is one of the best

areas to view leopards in the world. However,

there are no guarantees of seeing these

elusive cats and the best sightings are when

the animals are relaxed and have learnt to be

at ease around safari vehicles.

Where to stay Nsefu Camp, started

by Zambian guide Robin Pope in the

Luangwa, or Zarafa Camp in the Selinda

Reserve in Botswana.

A nine-night safari to Botswana and

Zambia, including four nights at Zarafa,

costs from 7,995 per person through

Abercrombie & Kent.

The jaguar is the Tiger of the Americas and the

third-largest of the big cats. Its actually not very

fast, but it keeps low to the ground and is massive and

stocky like a sumo wrestler. Its a stalk-and-ambush

predator that can grab and crush its prey. While other

big cats go for the neck, jaguars kill their prey with

a crushing blow to the spine or the skull.

But even though its such a fearsome killing

machine, I call the jaguar the reluctant warrior of the

cat family because its the least aggressive. Lions, tigers

and leopards have been responsible for thousands of

human deaths, but jaguars never attack humans. In

some communities in South America people live

alongside 500lb jaguars; no one is frightened of them.

They can survive in numerous different habitats

from the Sonoran Desert in Mexico to the pampas of

northern Argentina, but they thrive best in wet jungle

and rainforest and have an affinity for water. Theyre

amazing swimmers and can cross major rivers. The

size of their territory varies depending on the size and

availability of their prey. If the prey species are large,

like in the Pantanal in South America, a jaguars

territory can be up to 60sq miles, whereas in Belize,

where they hunt smaller prey like armadillo, its more

like 10-30sq miles.

Although they are still endangered, jaguars are doing

better than all the other big cats, but they are

mysterious and secretive animals. However, the

Pantanal in Brazil during the latter half of the dry

season (August to October) is the one place where you

are almost guaranteed a sighting. The fishermen on the

Cuiab River dont hunt them and when you are

watching them from a boat, they dont run away. Then,

at night, you can follow them with a spotlight and even

see them hunting. And thats an incredible sight.

Where to stay Pousada do Rio Mutum, an

eco-lodge, or the simpler Porto Jofre, where guests

almost always see jaguar.

A 13-night Brazil trip, with five nights at Porto

Jofre, and an expert jaguar guide in the

Pantanal, costs from 5,995 per person through

Abercrombie & Kent.

LEOPARD DAVE VARTY is a conservationist and the owner of Londolozi Game Reserve

(londolozi.com) beside Kruger National Park in South Africa, which specialises in leopard viewing

JAGUAR ALAN RABINOWITZ is head

of Panthera (panthera.org), which

campaigns for endangered big cats. He

set up a jaguar sanctuary in Belize

CHEETAH DERECK and BEVERLY JOUBERT are award-winning film-makers (wildlifefilms.co) who

have dedicated their lives to saving big cats. They are both National Geographic Explorers-in-Residence

All trips can be tailor-made by Abercrombie

& Kent (0845 485 1576; abercrombiekent.

co.uk) and are inclusive of flights and

private guiding.

Walk on the wild side Deep within Africas fnest game reserve, Four Seasons Safari Lodge,

Serengeti offers sanctuary of comfort. Get up close and intimate

with wildlife and Maasai culture, yet always feel safe and pampered.

With refreshing Four Seasons care, our Safari Lodge promises a

luxurious respite amid your Africa adventures.

To make a reservation or fnd out more, call Abercrombie & Kent

at 0845 485 1282 or email [email protected]

Photo by Nick Garbutt

THE PRIZE

Abercrombie & Kent is offering a seven-night itinerary in Myanmar

on the luxurious river yacht Sanctuary Ananda. Custom-built by local

shipbuilders, the riverboat has been designed specially with a shallow

draft so that it can cruise both the Upper and Lower Ayeryarwady and

Chindwin rivers, and access remote villages and temples. Inside, the

boat is far from traditional, featuring 20 spacious cabins with five-star

comforts such as monsoon showers and air-conditioning; elegant

dining rooms with Burmese and international cuisine; and on-board

facilities such as a pool and spa. The river yacht which launches this

November is by far the most comfortable way to explore the

countrys beautiful temples, rich culture and welcoming population;

the seven-day itineraries are from Mandalay to Bagan, or Bagan to

Mandalay, return, and include on-board musical performances,

lectures and cultural demonstrations, and Qatar Airways flights.

ABOUT MYANMAR

Myanmar formerly known as Burma is a fast-evolving Eastern

destination, offering glorious landscapes, a Buddhist culture in which

music, arts and craftsmanship thrive, and towns unspoilt by modern

tourism. Once a final frontier of adventure travel, the country has

flourished under the gradual influx of tourists; visitors come for the

culture and architecture, but their memories are usually of its

graceful, warm people, verdant landscapes and vibrant towns.

Buddhist temples abound with Bagans 4,000 stupas a rival to many

of the worlds most famous religious sites and much of its

population still wears traditional dress. It also has an abundance of

ancient sites to visit, from temples dotted across hundreds of miles of

countryside to a Golden Rock which teeters at the edge of a chasm.

WIN A LUXURY RIVER CRUISE IN MYANMARCourtesy of Abercrombie & Kent, Sanctuary Retreats and Qatar Airways

New way to see Burma The Sanctuary Ananda (centre) has been

built to transport guests in great comfort; on-board extras include

a pool and a spa (above). Top: Monks walk amid golden stupas

AP

THE DETAILS

The prize is a seven-night cruise

for two people sharing a suite,

and includes international flights

with Qatar Airways, private

transfers, excursions, meals

and selected drinks. The prize

is valid from January 10

to December 15 2015 (excluding

the April 4 departure) and

is subject to availability.

HOW TO ENTER

Simply go to telegraph.co.uk/

myanmar. You will need to leave

your name, address, telephone

number and a valid email

address. All entries must

be received by midnight on

October 9 2014. For full

terms and conditions see

telegraph.co.uk/myanmar.

If you can imagine beingin a place where mountains

are made of water,come to Chile.

Valle

del

Elq

ui,

Ata

cam

aG

rey

Gla

cier

, To

rres

del

Pai

ne

if not...come to Chile.

For more information about a tailor-made trip to Chile, please call:

Abercrombie & Kent on 0845 485 1137 or email [email protected]

LCKI8KI8M

Call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure.

SMALL SHIPS BIG EXPERIENCES WITH NOBLE CALEDONIA

One of the many beautiful islands we visit is Aldabra, the worlds largest coral atoll and a World Heritage site. Totally untouched by the modern world, Aldabra has been

described by Jacques Cousteau as the last

unprofaned sanctuary on this planet. Being

one of the most diffcult places in the world

to access and a lack of freshwater has saved

Aldabra from any tourism development.

There is no landing strip and the only viable

means of reaching this untouched region is

by ship and the MS Island Sky is one of only

a handful of vessels allowed to call at this

unique atoll. Aldabra is the last breeding

ground of the giant tortoise and in addition

to seeing some of these endearing creatures

you should encounter dolphins, turtles and

whales as well as countless birds including

the fightless rail, the last fightless bird in the

Indian Ocean.

Leaving the Seychelles we will make for the

Comoros and the French island of Nzwani

and then on to Mozambique, one of the

worlds best kept travel secrets. Sailing north

along the African coast, we shall then reach

Tanzania. Both countries offer exceptional

national parks along their coastlines. The

last island on our odyssey will be Zanzibar

where we will explore its labyrinth of

serpentine alleyways lined with charming

Arabic dwellings and flled with the treasures

of the East that established its fame; cloves,

cinnamon and vanilla. We have many years

of experience in operating the vessel in the

region which combined with the expertise of

our onboard expedition team will result in a

truly memorable voyage.

The Itinerary in briefDay 1 - London to Male, Maldives. Fly by scheduled indirect fight.

Day 2 - Male, Maldives. Arrive this afternoon and transfer to our hotel for an overnight stay.

Day 3 - Male, Maldives. Enjoy a relaxing morning using the hotel facilities either

enjoying the beach or pool area. This

afternoon we will transfer to the MS Island Sky.

Days 4 to 7 - Maldives. We spend four days exploring the beauty of the archipelago.

This vast area of ocean is scattered with

staggeringly beautiful dots of land

surrounded by a cerulean sea. It offers some

of the fnest lagoons, beaches and coral

reefs in the world. Our day to day schedule

will be left in the capable hands of the

Captain and Expedition Leader, but we

hope to include visits to Meemu, Gaafu and

Kaafu Atolls. Our onboard expedition team

will be on hand to lead guided walking tours

to explore the birds and wildlife on land

whilst our snorkel master will take us to

some exceptional reefs.

Days 8 to 10 - At sea. Three days at sea to relax onboard as we cross the Indian Ocean

to the glorious islands of the Seychelles.

Attend the daily lectures and a host of other

activities which will be arranged onboard.

Day 11 - Mahe, Seychelles. After breakfast join the island drive to the nations capital of

Victoria with its own Big Ben, the Botanic

Gardens and the ruins of a Capuchin mission.

Day 12 - Aride & La Digue, Seychelles. Sail at frst light to the islands to the north of

Mahe. Our frst call will be at Aride one of the

fnest and most important seabird islands in

the Indian Ocean. Over one million seabirds

breed on the island including tropical

shearwater and roseate tern and also fve

species unique to the Seychelles such as the

Seychelles warbler and Seychelles magpie

robin. We will enjoy a walk on the island

amongst the native woodland. Sail during

lunch to nearby La Digue. There is a hint of

Henry Moore in the huge granite boulders

that lie like giant sculptures on the brilliant

white beaches of the island. Tour the forested

nature reserve and the LUnion Estate, a

superbly restored 19th century colonial house.

Day 13 - Praslin & Curieuse, Seychelles. Spend the morning on Praslin. We will explore

the Vallee de Mai, the last remnant of the

original high-canopied Seychelles palm forest

and home to the coco de mer. We will walk its

paths looking out for the rare black parrot and

enjoying its natural beauty which so

overpowered General Gordon. Sail over lunch

to Curieuse a rugged island which is an

important nesting site for Hawksbill turtles.

Day 14 - St Joseph, Seychelles. We will spend the day exploring the island of St

Joseph, an ideal spot for some

beachcombing, nature walks and bird

watching. In the islands lagoon there is a

huge population of stingrays, healthy

numbers of turtles and giant blue mud crabs.

Day 15 - Alphonse, Seychelles. Wake up on Christmas morning in the Alphonse group of

islands located directly south of the

Amirantes. We will call into Alphonse

regarded by many as one of the most

beautiful of all the 115 islands in the

Seychelles. Its circular lagoon offers perfect

Islands of the Indian OceanExplore the Maldives and undiscovered islands of the Indian Ocean including Aldabra aboard the MS Island Sky 11th December 2015 to 5th January 2016

Escape the British winter and enjoy the warmth and beauty of the Indian Ocean aboard the MS Island Sky as she undertakes exactly the type of itinerary that suits her many talents best, exploring the islands and atolls of the Maldives and Seychelles, two of the worlds most pristine and picturesque archipelagos.With our purpose built Zodiacs we will land on otherwise inaccessible

beaches, explore vast lagoons and coral reefs and encounter some of the most extraordinarily beautiful tropical scenery to be found anywhere in the world. To many

travellers this region is without equal, having remained largely free from the ravages of mass tourism. Obviously, such beauty and serenity is best enjoyed with a small number of travelling

companions. After all, it would be disappointing to fnd yourself in the company of hundreds on what was a deserted beach. The MS Island Sky is the ideal vessel, and with a maximum of 114 passengers she offers

all the comforts of a larger vessel, but with the added luxury of a small number of passengers.

Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk

BOOK EARLY AND SAVE 500 PER PERSON

snorkelling and on an island walk we hope to

spot the extremely rare magpie robin.

Day 16 - Farquhar. We spend the day anchoring off Farquhar where we will use our Zodiacs to

explore the sparkling lagoon of this remote

atoll ringed island of coconut and casuarina

trees. The island is a haven for many species of

migratory birds providing us with a delightful

afternoon of bird watching or snorkelling.

Day 17 - Cosmoledo, Seychelles. Arrive this morning at Cosmoledo where a huge ring of

twelve islands circle a lagoon. Many of the

atolls are still to be surveyed and we shall

explore some of them by Zodiac. This is an

important bird area with all three species of

booby found in the Seychelles, sooty tern and

great frigatebirds. We may also spot the

green turtles, skinks and the Madagascar

banded lizard.

Day 18 - Aldabra, Seychelles. Go ashore to the islands referred to by Sir Julian Huxley as

One of natures treasures and should belong

to the whole world. Aldabra is unique and

we are privileged visitors by kind permission

of the Seychelles government. Every time we

call at what is believed to be the worlds

largest atoll we fnd something new of

interest. Sightings have been made of the

extremely rare Whitethroated rail, and indeed

whilst exploring by Zodiac it is diffcult to

know in which direction to look. The clear

blue seas abound with colourful life, the skies

are alive with varied birdlife and ashore giant

land tortoises forage.

Day 19 - Assumption, Seychelles. Close to Aldabra is the island of Assumption. Early in

the 20th century the island was ruthlessly

plundered for its vast deposits of guano.

Happily, peace has returned to the islands and

the wildlife of rare birds and green turtles are

once again in abundance.

Day 20 - Anjouan, Comoros. This afternoon fnds us in Nzwani, better known by its French

name of Anjouan. It is an incredibly

picturesque island with forested hillsides and

rivers tumbling down to the sea. An island

drive will include some beauty spots.

Day 21 - Pemba, Mozambique. This afternoon we will reach Africa and the coastline of

Mozambique. We will arrive at Pemba which is

located on an enormous turquoise bay ringed

by groves of Africas botanical icon, the baobab

tree. Enjoy a stroll in town with its Portuguese

history. Tonight we will welcome in the New

Year as we cruise the Mozambique Coast.

Day 22 - Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique. Travelling north along the coast we enjoy a day in the Quirimbas National Park,

a coastal park set aside recently with

assistance from the World Wildlife Fund and

one of Mozambiques most biologically diverse

regions. We hope to make an expedition stop

to view extensive reef and islet complexes

offering outstanding snorkelling amidst 400

species of fsh. We may also visit Ibo, a former

Portuguese island of once-elegant palatial

mansions. The colony owed its wealth to

18th-century slave and ivory trading. The

battlements of the pentagonal main fortress

house renowned silversmiths today. Local

guides will escort us around the fort and for

the birders a separate walk will be arranged.

Day 23 - At sea. A fnal day of leisure and time to relax onboard as we sail to our

penultimate port of call, Zanzibar.

Day 24 - Zanzibar, Tanzania. Here the colourful harbour will be crowded with dhows,

very much setting the scene for our visit to the

Arab style city with its long narrow streets,

bazaars, houses with overhanging balconies

and intricately carved doorways. On a

morning tour soak up the timeless

atmosphere of Stone Town. The afternoon is

free to relax and explore independently or

join an optional tour to a spice farm.

Day 25 - Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to London. Disembark after breakfast and return to

London by scheduled indirect fight.

Prices and InclusionsSpecial offer prices per person based on double occupancy range from 10495 for a standard

forward suite to 12195 for an owners balcony suite. Suites for sole use from 14695.

Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel, overnight hotel accommodation in Male on breakfast only basis, 22 nights aboard the MS Island Sky on a full board basis including wine, beer and soft drinks with

lunch and dinner onboard, shore excursions, expedition team, transfers, port taxes, gratuities onboard and

whilst on excursions.

Not Included: Travel Insurance, visas, optional excursion in Zanzibar.NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change. Flight schedules have not been released at the time of going to

print and therefore the itinerary is subject to change on their release. All special offers are subject to availability.

Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations.

MS Island SkyThe MS Island Sky is one of the fnest small ships in the world. With a maximum passenger

capacity of only 114, the all-suite vessel has the beneft of unusually large accommodation,

public areas and spacious outside decks. All suites feature a sitting room area and some

have a private balcony. The feeling of luxury is enhanced by the wood panelling and brass,

which predominates throughout the vessel conveying the atmosphere of a private yacht.

The spacious and fnely decorated public rooms include a lounge, elegant bar, library and

a single seating dining room. Outside there is a rear sun deck where meals are served in

warm weather under shade, a bar and comfortable deck furniture. On the top deck there

is a further observation and sun deck. The atmosphere onboard is akin to a private yacht

or country hotel. A little music in the lounge or bar after dinner, talks from the onboard

speakers, informative port briefngs from our Expedition Leader and of course good food

which may be enjoyed leisurely in the attractive dining room, all contribute to making any

voyage aboard the MS Island Sky a memorable experience. After a day ashore you will

return to the comfort and peace of a well-run and exceedingly comfortable ship.

LCKI8KI8M

TAILORMADE TRAVEL WORLDWIDE 020 7408 9020

FIRST & BUSINESS CLASS TRAVEL 020 7408 9030

trailf nders.com/nz

WHY TRAILFINDERS? Firsthand advice from our extensively travelled consultants Access to exclusive offers onlyavailable to Trail nders clients No credit card charges unlike most other travel companies Complete peace of mind with

unrivalled care and nancial protection 26 travel centres across the UK Trusted for more than 43 years

Trust Trail nders to tailormake your luxury New Zealand holiday

THE BEST OF NEW ZEALANDLUXURY FLY DRIVE HOLIDAY

18 days/17 nights from 2,349

UK

Ultrapdf.pdf

Documents

Transcript of Ultrapdf.pdf