The Ultimate Trek - Annpurna Circuit Jayant Doshi

(1st October 2010 to 17th October 2010)

I met Shailesh, a keen trekker, in Pune after my Makalu trek in 2007. We exchanged our emails. It was in April 2010 that he wrote to me asking me if I would like to join them on a 17 day Annpurna Circuit trek. As I so much wanted to do this, I replied and said I would be glad to join them. However, later in the year I had some health issues and it became difficult to decide till the last few weeks if I will be able to fulfil this dream. Just ten days before leaving London, I decided that I am going as I was feeling perfectly in shape. I left London on 1st October and met Shailesh together with Vivek and Abhay (all 40 or nearby) on 2nd

October in Kathmandu. We spent the next day sightseeing in Kathmandu.

Right from day one it appeared that they did not seem comfortable talking either in Hindi or English, they tended to talk all the time in Marathi which I do not understand. That very day they talked about changing our original program. It was argued that after Muktinath, there is a vehicle road, and it is no fun walking with vehicles passing by all the time. Alternative plans were made to utilise those days, including some trekking in Poon Hills. The arguments seemed logical and I agreed with them. I shared the room with Vivek and he was quite friendly and we talked when we were in the room, but when the three of them were together all the talk seemed to be in Marathi. If I mentioned anything either in Hindi or English, I just got a one sentence short reply and then talk reverted to Marathi. Over the two weeks I got used to it and I would read my book while they were talking. Others also noticed that while I was with these three we were not talking to each other much. While playing cards with one of the porters he got angry and told them not to talk in Marathi when we were playing. But I guess they were so used to talking in that language, and that they were uncomfortable speaking in either Hindi or English, that they could not help it and they did not notice that they were excluding me all the

time. However, as far as daily activities were concerned they gave me lot of respect, always called me when something was happening and generally treated me well.

The Trek First Day : We were supposed to travel by bus to

our starting point but then opted for a taxi. It was planned that we would reach Bhulbhule (height : 820 metres 2690 ft) by lunch time and then we would start our trek to reach Bahundanda for the night. But the traffic was choker block. Everyone was trying to overtake the others, and as such blocking the lane for the oncoming traffic. Later, after we had spent hours lingering in that traffic, we came to a

bridge which would take only one vehicle at a time, and it took a long time to cross that bridge. All the way we were faced with clouds of dust, diesel fumes and stench of oil. There were hundreds of

trucks and buses belching out smoke. We passed through greenery, mountains and rivers, but we had no chance to stop or view the beautiful scenery. It was 5.30 in the evening by the time we reached our destination and the plan to trek to our final destination was shelved. Our trek proper as such started on 5th October at 7.45. We walked through valleys, with river flowing along out trek and beautiful views all around. We had to cover the trek of the previous day and also trek planned for today. We first reached Bahudanda (height : 1310 m. or 3608 ft.). Then we continued to Chamje (height : 1560 m. 5118 ft) Our first day of trekking turned out to be a long day. We walked for 10 hours with about 2 hours of break in between. It was a long tiring day.

When we started walking, I was in the front as is my usual pace of walking. For an hour or more I led the way and others were far behind. But then they caught up with me, and overtook me. I was told that they were spending lot of time photographing lovely scenery on the way which slowed them down. Vivek and Shailesh had sophisticated cameras with lots of different lenses, and they seemed to be perfectionist in their hobby. But once they had passed me they took a great lead, and I was almost an hour behind them.

We were still at lower altitudes, and it was really hot. I must have drunk over eight litres of fluid during the day, but I was sweating by the bucket and I hardly passed any urine during the day. Walking through the valleys and mountain slopes with lots of greenery, and the gushing waters of river all the time giving us company, made it a wonderful day for trekking. The terrace farming on the mountains gave it a beauty of its own, but in reality the terrace farms were encroaching onto the natural vegetation on these beautiful mountains. With pressure of growing

population, and the need to develop the economy, it is natural to expect more of such farming on these mountains. My three colleagues were much younger, fitter and experienced trekkers, and I should have realised that I would never be able to keep up with their pace. But doubts started occurring in my mind. I felt that I had taken my fitness for granted, and that I had not prepared myself for the trek. The fear cropped up that I might not be able to do the pass and just the thought scared me. I started visualising the scene when everyone was walking ahead, I was lagging far behind and ultimately I am told to go back the way I had come. I felt that I had passed the age and I should not have even come on this trek. Walking for almost ten hours, after a long period, seemed to have taken its toll and I felt tired when I reached the destination. But my legs were not hurting, and once I had sat down I was fresh in no time. There was no urge to lie down or sleep to recover.

Second Day : Next day was supposed to be easy

walking. We started at 7.45 a.m. and walked till 1.00 p.m. when we stopped for lunch. Most of the walking involved steep climbing. After lunch we walked for three more hours, and as such we walked as much as the day before. It appeared that the timings given by the guide never seemed to be anywhere accurate. We passed

through Tal and then Dharapani (1920 m – 6298 ft) and ultimately to Bagarchhap (2160 m = 7085 ft). Today we passed a few waterfalls, and crossed the river several times. As we were going up it got cooler and walking became easier. Today also I lagged behind rest of the group though I was told that I was not that much behind them. But my confidence had been dented and I was still not sure if I will be able to cope with the uphill walks which would follow later. Due to less haemoglobin, I always had breathing problem while walking up an ascent. Unlike Everest trek, this area is much more

populated and well served with amenities. The lodges were of better standard, hot water for shower

was available during the early days, mobile phones were working and food at meal times were of better variety. However, the lodges lacked the atmosphere that existed in Everest trek. There was no heating in the dining hall, and no room for all trekkers to sit around and get to know each other. It is nice to see lot of awareness in the country. Wood fires are almost nonexistent, use of solar panels to heat water and for electricity is very common, and planting trees can be seen all around.

Third Day : Today we left at 7.00 a.m. and it was

comparatively a short day for walking. We reached our destination by 2.00 and took few breaks. Walking was moderate to difficult today. Our destination was Chame. (2630 m – 8627 ft.) All the way during the trek we had clear viewing of Annpurna 2 and 4 peaks, and our trek was along River Marsyangdi. My back pack caused some pain on the left shoulder blade, and it was hurting me while walking, and after wards also. I lay in bed after lunch. The back was paining and the thighs had become stiff. I had to empty my bowels in nature, and squatting was painful as thighs were very stiff after walking for three days. Later we went for bathing in hot water springs. My three colleagues were not keen on the same. The very hot water was coming out of the ground but there were no proper facilities for bathing. I sat on the step next to the river and the porter filled the jug with hot water, I mixed it with river water and took the bath. It felt wonderful bathing in hot sulphur waters. Little was I to know, as per my colleagues, that the same bath would transform my walking from the next day. Today was our first evening when we had free time, and were able to

play some cards.

Fourth Day : Today we were told that it would be

a long walk and as such started at 6.45 in the morning. I left a few minutes before the rest. I kept ahead of everyone for most of the trek. Everyone was joking that spring waters had done a miracle. But to me I was walking at same speed as any other day. Others were either busy taking photographs, or perhaps the initial burst of energy had evaporated, and their bodies were refusing to walk at the same pace as the first three days. But for me, this was a great boost in my confidence. I realised that I was as good at walking as in the past and that

crossing the pass should not cause any problem. The first three long days of walking had not affected my capacity to continue walking at the same pace. Everyone was surprised to see me reaching Pisang half an hour before everyone else.

Pisang (3190 m – 10466 ft) has a lower section and upper section. Also there were two routes from Pisang to our next destination. Some other trekkers suggested that upper route is much more scenic. Guide was discouraging us from taking that route. When we reached Pisang the guide also told us that there was no chance of finding a room in Upper Pisang, but we insisted that we want to go up there and we found rooms at the very first lodge we tried. It had wonderful views of all the snow peaks, and the professional photographers in the group were excited by the lovely photos they were able to take of the snow peaks in the morning sun shine when the sun is rising. In the evening we

walked to a Buddhist monastery which was a very steep long climb. Our evening meals were taken around 7.00 and we would be in bed by 8.00 or soon after. Dal and rice with vegetables seemed to be the popular item though pizza, spiced boiled or fried potatoes, Mexican items and egg items were also available. We met two trekkers from Mumbai who gave us company for most of the days. We got a chance to intermingle with other trekkers now and then. If we were early we would enjoy some card games. Showers were available for most of the early days.

Fifth Day : After giving consideration to the

choices, our group decided to take the easier lower route from Pisang. It had rained previous night and the morning was cloudy and misty. We walked along the river and had a long climb over a steep ridge taking us to 3400 m (11152 ft) and then a descent into the valley to 3325 m (10906 ft) where there is an air strip. We then climb up to Manang (3500 m – 11483 ft).

Sixth Day : Manang is a large village and a

normal stopping centre for acclimatisation. It allows trekkers to get adjusted to the thinning air and lessening pressure as we go to higher

altitudes. Most trekkers would walk to various sightseeing points around the village and rest for the ardous walks to follow. We walked up a hill in the morning where we got a wonderful view of the Annpurna range. Later we walked around the village. We rested for rest of the day.

Seventh Day : The sky was clear and sun was shining the early next morning and my colleagues

woke up early to take some lovely photos of the sun rays glistening the peaks of the snow capped mountains. While it is possible to reach Thorung Phedi in one day, the trek is divided into two days to allow for more time to get acclimatised. We walked to Tengi which was a gradual uphill walk taking us to 3620 m (11874 ft) and then we continued steadily upwards to Gunsang at 3930 m (12891 ft). The vegetation and the scenery now were Alpine with scrubs and alpine grasses. We got a clear view of Gangapurna peak (7454 m – 24450 ft)) and Annpurna III (7555 m – 24780 ft). Just to see these majestic snow-capped peaks made the trek worth undertaking. We reached Yak Kharka |(4090m – 11341 ft) where we spent the night. The day had wonderful sunshine and clear

skies. For some trekking is a passion. Walking in unpolluted air, in the open in the mountains and seeing the beauty nature has created is what drives that passion. For some trekking is not only walking and seeing the natural beauty of the mountains but also a challenge – a challenge to set a target and to achieve it. For others the aim is to capture the beauty of the nature and of the snow capped peaks in their cameras, and once this is achieved they are happy about their achievement. My colleagues, who had decided not to walk along a road where vehicles are passing, but who had decided to climb Poon hills to get a

view of the Annpurna range of snow capped mountains, had another change of mind.

Since they had got wonderful viewing of the same range of mountains and had captured those views on their professional cameras, they decided that it was not worth climbing that height (1830 m - 6000 ft to Pun hill top) just to view the same range again. As usual, the decision was conveyed to me after three of them had discussed it in Marathi. I did not have a choice or a chance to express my opinion so I listened to their decision quietly.

Eighth Day : We had some snow fall during the night. In the morning all the garden furniture in our

lodge and all the bushes were covered with snow, but there was no snow to affect our walking. We left at 7.45. Today it was going to be a short walk. The early part was treacherous downhill walk with small stones and dry soil, and later some muddy patches made it difficult. I slipped a few times and actually fell down once. After crossing a bridge, we had steep uphill climb. The trail continued along a steep bank and we reached Thorung Phedi (4441 m – 14570 ft) which is the last stop before we cross the Thorung La Pass. Phedi means foot of the hill. The guide suggested that after lunch and a little rest we should walk up the hill as far as possible to acclimatise and to prepare for the long walk the next day. We four started walking up the steep slope (which leads to the High Camp which would be our first stop for breakfast next

day). While three others stopped after a while and returned to our lodge I continued walking prompted by the porter who accompanied us. Walking up hill causes breathing problem for me due

to lack of sufficient haemoglobin in my blood, and I am huffing and puffing after every few steps. Prompted by the porter I kept walking and even though it was difficult and laborious I reached the top to the High Camp. I had no money with me so we could not buy tea but I refilled my water bottle. I was not fully prepared and the cold really hit my hands. But I had the great satisfaction that I made it to the top. I walked down to the lodge. Walking down is also not easy as the fear of slipping is always there and I am extra careful on that point. While the walk was tiring, I was not that tired that I needed to lie down. Also the difficult uphill walk did not give me any pains or aches and I felt

quite fresh.

Ninth Day : Today was the big day. We woke up

at 4.00, packed our sleeping bags and rest of our baggage, got ready, had tea and biscuits and left by 4.45. It was freezing cold – I assume at least minus ten degrees or even less. I was dressed for the cold weather and I had gloves on my hands. Walking generates heat, and putting too many clothes can also cause problem in walking, no matter how cold it is. I was originally planning to wear just wind cheater over my tee shirts but on second thought I put on my warm fleece jacket. Even with that, while walking I felt a chill on my abdomen. My face also was freezing with the cold. After that day I caught a bad cold and a sore throat which lingered for long time.

Hundreds of other trekkers also were on the slope at that time. We had to use our torches to see the trek. I was feeling the chill in my body and my hands seemed to be freezing. Because of the dark and many trekkers on the slope our progress was slow. While my thighs and calf muscles were not aching, there seemed to be some sort of resistance in the thighs. After every few steps I had to stop because I felt as if the thighs were refusing to move. Day before, I had climbed in one hour and fifteen minutes and today it took me one hour forty five minutes. This was because of combination of factors but I kept wondering if previous day’s walk would have affected my speed of walking. When I reached the High camp at 6.30 in the morning I went inside the lodge dining hall to take breakfast. But my hands were freezing and my fingers had gone numb. I had problem removing my gloves and to undo the clasps on my back pack. The numbness in the fingers left them useless. I rubbed both the hands frantically to bring them to life but that did not help. After a while, I went into the kitchen and warmed my hands on the electric hot plate. After doing that for a while I felt life coming back into my fingers. We had some breakfast at High Camp. Many trekkers had stayed at High Camp making their

crossing of the pass much easier. But our guide advised that altitude can possibly have adverse effect on us. Up to now it was steep uphill walk but after High Camp it became moderate uphill

walk. I reached Thorung La Pass at about 10.00. Shailesh was ahead of me but others were behind. While I kept my pace of walking steady for all nine days, it seems others lost their initial speed and slowed down. I felt proud that not only I had made to the top, but that I did not struggle or was not slow in this walk. Others did not have to wait for me. The scenery around the pass was spectacular. We could see various snow capped peaks from this point. A board showing the height and name of the pass stood prominently on the site and we all took photos. We had reached height of 5416 m or 17765 ft. I was overwhelmed. Some guides, porters and other trekkers came and congratulated me. One guide requested to take photos with me. At my

age, this was a great achievement and those who knew my age were impressed. Our guide and the porters had great doubts about my ability to cross the pass, especially after seeing me trailing behind during the first few days. They were full of praise. We started our walk down to Muktinath. Muktinath is one of the most sacred Hindu temples and get many devotees coming there. Our walk to Muktinath was down hill most of the way but it was tricky as small stones and dry soil made it easy to slip on those slopes. Also walking down hill can easily injure the knees and we had to be careful about that. Sometimes too much fear of slipping cause tense muscles and that could tire the muscles even more. While we were given the impression of easy

three hour walk, it did not seem to end. I was able to keep up with rest of the group but by mid day I was feeling really tired. We stopped for lunch. I decided to take extra time before I started walking again. We were to cross a bridge to go across but we found the bridge path was blocked and the bridge seemed to be damaged. So we followed the trek to the bottom of the valley, crossed the river

in a precarious position, and walked up a steep hill to get across on the other side. This took considerable time and our day got longer and longer. It was tricky and treacherous walk along a narrow path. It in itself provided us with an adventure walk for the already tiring day. When we reached Muktinath, the guide was waiting for us to show the famous temple so that we do not have to come again. However the temple was closed. From there to the town centre and our lodge seemed like eternity but we had no choice but to walk it. It was a long day – over twelve and half hours of walking with some breaks. But all that was soon forgotten with a hot refreshing shower. Vivek and I were both

ready to go and visit the temple but no one seemed to be sure if it would be open so we turned back and decided to go the next morning. In one day we had climbed from Thorung Phedi to High Camp (692 m - 2270 ft) and then from High camp to Thorung La Pass (305 m – 1000 ft.). Then on the return we walked down from Thorung La Pass to Muktinath (1726m – 5660 ft). In short we climbed up 3270 ft and climbed down 5660 ft in one day. That was a great achievement particularly at my age.

Return Journey : As per the original plan we were to continue our trekking but with the change of

plans it was decided we take taxi from Muktinath and go to Jomsom and fly to Pokhara. However, we could not get the air tickets. Muktinath being an important pilgrimage centre, dirt roads that can take vehicle traffic have been built, but being mountainous region the roads are bumpy and driving quite difficult. Again there was change of plans. Our plans to climb Poon Hills was shelved as the argument went that they had seen all the peaks and taken all the photos so why climb that hill. We were to proceed to Pokhara and spend a few days there and then go the Chitwan National Park where hotel bookings had been arranged.

In the early morning we went to see Muktinath temple. It was a long steep walk and I wondered how many devotees would cope with this walk. The temple has great significance for Hindus and it is located on vast piece of land, and fenced by wall. After breakfast, we got ready by nine to board a taxi. To make up numbers we joined another group, and as such we were totally 13 in the taxi. It was a very bumpy ride with pot holes, rocks, puddles, and sometimes deep holes where the tires of the taxi would not be able to come out. In such places driver would put stones under the wheel to let it drive through. At one place the road was blocked with rocks and we had to move the rocks to pass through. We saw lot of trekkers on the way.

Number of cars passing on the road was minimal, may be one per hour at the most. I felt pangs of regret. We cancelled this part of trekking because we did not wish to walk with cars whizzing past but there was nothing like it. We reached Jomsom and walked across the town to find another taxi. We took our lunch and kept waiting for the taxi. Other group decided to go on their own, and we could not find a taxi. After 3.00 p.m. we got on a bus. It was not a comfortable ride, with hardly any place to keep our legs, and the bumpy road did not help much in the cramped bus. Seats could hardly take two, and our heads were knocking against the luggage rack. The bus kept rollicking side to side. We reached Marpha which is famous for its apples and apple by products. Some of our colleagues and porters were out buying apples. Vivek and I were in the bus when the bus took a U turn and before we knew driver was driving the same way we came. We were told that the bus was going back to Jomsom to collect some luggage. We went through the same bumpy ride again. The top of the bus got fully loaded and rest of the luggage was put between the seats leaving no space at all. We did not have any space even to move our legs. Some more passengers were taken in the already full bus. We picked up rest of our group from Marpha and continued our journey.

It was 8.00 p.m. by the time we reached Gasa. From there we arranged a private bus taking three groups to fill the bus but more people got on the bus and it took some time to sort out the outsiders. We drove on and just about 10.00 p.m. we found the road blocked. We waited for a while, police were called and some hasty negotiations took place. We were informed that some villagers had blocked the road in anger. When the villagers were told that there were only tourists on the bus they let us go. We reached out hotel at 10.45. While others went for dinner, it is not my habit to eat so late, and so I went straight to bed.

In the morning when I saw the location of the hotel and its surroundings I felt that we made a mistake not completing the trek. The hotel with lots of greenery, river passing by and the hills with greenery in the back made the place look wonderful. I had good sleep. We went for hot water bath

in the nearby river spot and it was totally refreshing. On my return I was informed that there was a change of plan. This “change of plan” had become a big joke during this trip. I had heard this so many times. Now I was told that everyone was so tired with the taxi and bus journey of the previous day that they did not want to do any more such travelling. They had decided to cancel all plans and go back home. At no time did they consider my views. I was angry, I was frustrated but I felt it was best to keep calm. We had a comfortable journey to Pokhara. I also learnt that my colleagues were planning to fly to Kathmandu. I stated that I will join them

whatever they decide. After reaching Pokhara I had a shave and a massage. I felt rejuvenated. I made some calls to arrange for my flight to London. On return to my room Vivek told me that others were now talking of going to Chitwan National Park and suggested that I go and talk to them. I told him that I will wait till they tell me. I took every one for dinner that night, and told them that I was going to Kathmandu next day and will be flying home day after. No one made any comment. Next morning we all went to Kathmandu by taxi. Of course, plans to fly had been changed by morning time. Day after I flew to London and the others all took a flight to Pune. While the successful crossing of the high pass was a great

achievement, it was a big disappointment for me that I did not do the trek as planned. For them there will be other opportunities – but for me this perhaps was my last opportunity. For them having captured all the important peaks on their cameras was the height of their achievement and satisfaction. For me, to have walked for the projected seventeen days, would have been the height of achievement that would have given me immense satisfaction. But I was happy for what I had achieved. Walking for such long hours did not give me pain in my legs or thighs though I did feel pain a few times in my calf muscles in my sleep. That is to be expected after such walking. But after a long days walking I was not shattered, unlike many others, I did not crash into the bed at the end of the day, nor did I need to lie down to recover myself. Trekking in the mountains gives a pleasure which cannot be expressed in words. In spite of all the difficulties one encounters, the ultimate satisfaction cannot be quantified. The bill board in Nepal says “Never say Good bye to the Himalayas.” Would this trek be my “Good bye” to the Himalayas? I wonder that will be so in my case – only time will tell. (comments to jubhai@aol.com – other reports on www.jayantdoshi.yolasite.com ))