Types of Knit Fabric

Since tomorrow is the last day you can get your Just Add Jeans collection, the four of usPattern Anthology gals thought it might be a good time to go over our best tips for sewing with knits. So I’m going to talk about the different types of knit fabrics – something that I think can be confusing to a lot of beginners, particularly when buying online, like at collection sponsor Girl Charlee.

Now, I happen to be a knitter as well as a sewist, so part of what I’m going to talk about is related to how the stitches are formed, because that helps explain the differences in the fabric.

Knit fabrics are made of a combination of knit and purl stitches. The basic difference between those is whether the yarn is carried from stitch to stitch on the right or wrong side of the fabric. For knit stitches the yarn is carried on the back side. With purl stitches the yarn is carried on the front side.

In the picture below, you can see the horizontal yarn carried on the wrong side of the fabric. This fabric is formed by knit stitches on the right side and purl stitches on the wrong side.

This method of knitting the right side and purling the wrong side is how jersey knit is formed. The picture above is a sweater knit, but if you look really closely, you can see the same stitch pattern in the jersey knit below.

Because the thread is always carried on the wrong side of the fabric, jersey knits are not the stretchiest type of knits. Some, like the one pictured above, have spandex in them to improve stretch. Others, like sweatshirt fleece, barely stretch at all.

Another property of jersey knit because of this knit right side/purled wrong side is that it tends to curl toward the right side parallel to the selvedge and toward the wrong side perpendicular to the selvedge. You can see how the fabric in my picture is curling along the cut edge.

In the picture above, the jersey knit is yarn dyed gray. Most jersey knits with a print on them are printed on the right side, much as quilting cotton is printed. Occasionally you will find

yarn dyed print jersey, which has the print on both the right and wrong sides.

Sweatshirt fleece is another type of jersey knit, again knitted on the right side and purled on the wrong side. Then the wrong side of the fabric is brushed, forming that fuzzy look and feel that also makes the fabric warmer as it traps more air.

One more type of jersey is burnout jersey. This is made with yarn/thread that is a combination of cotton and synthetic fibers, usually rayon. It’s knitted/purled/printed like a regular jersey print.

But then after printing, a chemical is applied to the fabric that “burns” the cotton fibers off, leaving the synthetic fibers behind, and resulting in see-through patches that you can see more clearly when the fabric is held up to the light.

Interlock knit is a type of double knit fabric. Without going into super technical details, it’s kind of like two pieces of jersey knit back to back with the same thread.

Because of this, it is stretchier than jersey, and it looks the same on the front and back side, as the yarn is carried in the middle between the two knit sides. This also means interlock is typically a little thicker than jersey, and that it doesn’t curl. Interlock is the fabric I recommend to people who have never worked with knits before – it’s stable, usually has good stretch and recovery, and is generally the easiest knit to work with.

Ponte (pon-tee) or ponte de roma is a type of interlock knit, made with a blend of synthetic fibers.

French Terry (not pictured) is another type of double knit, but this is made with two yarns; a smooth yarn on one side and a looped yarn on the other side. That is what gives French terry a

smooth surface on one side and the looped towel like surface on the other.

Rib knit alternates knit and purl stitches on the same side of the fabric, then on the other side the knit stitches get purled and the purl stitches are knitted. So for example a knit pattern for ribbing might read knit two, purl two, repeat on the right side and purl two, knit two on the wrong side. This forms the vertical ridges you can see on the fabric above. Because the yarn has to be switched from front to back so often, rib knit is also very stretchy. Also because of the even distribution of knit and purl stitches on the front and back side, rib knit typically looks the same on both sides and does not curl. Rib knit is great for collars

and necklines, because it stretches a lot and because it adds stability to jersey knits in those areas.

So those are the main types of knit – hope this helps you when you’re shopping!

For more knit tips today, check out Kate’s post introducing you to knits, Andrea’s post onstitches for knit fabric, and Shauna’s post about knit hems.

Textile Technology

Skip to content Home About Contents Survey 4. KnittingWhat is Knitting?

Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, often a garment.

figure 1 : type of knitting to produce a loopType of Knitting Stitches

In textile knitting, there are two types of stitch used by the manufacturer to produce a knitted product ; Warp Knitted and Weft Knitted stitches. Each of them have different properties in terms of advantages & disadvantages, and also the ways of production process.

Weft Knit StitchesIt is the most common types used by the manufacturer in produce textile knitted products such as Shirts and Socks. In terms of colour patterning, weft knit may be knitted with multiple yarns to produce interesting pattern design. There are few types or technique to produce weft knit structure, Single jersey, Purl, and Rib are some of the technique that been used to produce weft knitted structure.

figure 2 : Properties of warp knit fabric and weft knit fabric

Types of Machine Used by Weft Knit

figure 3 ; Type of knitting machine

There are two kind of machines used by the manufacturer to produce weft knit, Flat Knitting Machine and Circular Knitting Machine. Each of these machine can only produce different kind of products specifically. For Flat Knitting Machine, a V-bed type of machine may be use for knitting to produce design by using the facilities of rib loop transfer and needle backing. While for Circular Knitting Machine, the needle will be arranged on circumference of needle bed.

http://textechdip.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/knit4.jpg

figure 4 : structure fabric in flat bed machine and circular knitting machine

Circular Versus Flat Knitting Machine Production : Circular is much more productive

than Flat Knitting Machine Patterning : Circular is less pattern design

because of the restricted patterning abilities Fabric take-down : Fabric produce from Circular

can’t be driven directlyWarp Knit Stitches Warp knitted is produced from a set of warp yarn. It is parallely knitted to each other down the length of the fabric. Since knitted fabric may have hundreds of wales, warp knitted is typically done by machine.[1]

figure 5 : Techniques or types of Warp Knitted Structure 

Properties of Warp Knitted Structure

In production, there will be two types of guide bar may be choose to produce knitted product.

Single Guide Bar : Low strength, Lack of stability, Poor of covering power, and loop inclination

Double Guide Bar : Good dimensional stability, Reasonal cover, and Better loop and Shape[2]

Warp knitting  are divided by two,that are overlap and underlap

figure 6: meaning of warp knitting and type of warp knitted loop

SUMMARY

The popularity of knitting has grown a lot within the recent years owing to the adaptability of various man-made fibers, the increased versality of knitting techniques and the growth in demand for wrinkle-resistant, stretchable, snug-fitting fabrics.

Knitted textiles and apparel represent approximately one third of the global textile market, together with the advances of new technical applications for knitted textiles. Lets we talk about the new advancement of knitting technology in textile world.[3]

Wholegarment’ technology – this advance in knitting technology by developing the slide

needle.  The slide needle resulted from research into the latch needle and the knitting process.  The needle consists of a hook located centrally between a flexible two-piece slider mechanism.  Stitches are transferred by the sliders during the knitting process.It provide greater comfort than cut and sew clothes.

digital injet printing-  Designs can be transferred directly from a computer and printed onto fabric in almost the same way as a word-processed document is printed onto paper.[4]

References:

[1] Lecturer’s note, by Miss Eryna Binti Nasir Knitting

[2] Courtesy: Jimmy K.C. Lam, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University

[3] Billie J. Collier, University of Tennessee & Phyllis G. Tortora, Queens College. Understanding Textiles, (Sixth Edition).[4] http://www.knittingtogether.org.ukShare this:

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Flat bed knitting machine

Circular knitting machine

Knitted fabrics provide comfortablewear to almost any style of garment.M o s t k n i t s c o n t o u r t o t h e b o d y ' s silhouette without restricting movementbecause of its open structure. This makesknit fabrics ideal for innerwear, bodywearand sportswear garments. While manyvariations of knit fabrics exist such thatused for hosiery, there are two basic typesof knit fabrics—weft knits and warpknits—and it’s the direction in which theyarns making up the fabric are looped thatdetermines which type of knit the fabricis. From these two types of knit fabricscome various subtypes that consumersencounter in fabric stores and read withingarment descriptions.Weft knitting is the simplest method of converting a yarn into fabrics. Weftknitting is a method of forming a fabric inwhich the loops are made in horizontal wayfrom a single yarn and intermeshing of loops take place in a circular or flat formon a crosswise

basis. In this method eachweft thread is fed, more or less, at rightangles to direction in which fabric isformed. Each course in a weft knit buildsupon the previous knitted course. Mostof the weft knitting is of tubular form. It ispossible to knit with only one thread orcone of yarn, though production demandshave resulted in circular weft knittingmachines being manufactured with upto192 threads (feeders).Common weft knitsIn woven fabric structures, three weaves,are called basic weaves, viz., plain, twilland satin. In a similar way, in a weft knittingstructure, the following four structures areconsidered as basic weft knit structure.• Plain jersey fabric • Rib fabric• Purl fabric • Interlock fabricPlain jersey fabrics, also known as single jersey, have an identifiable right/face andwrong /back side. Other types are knownBasics of knitting 

Weft knittingas double jersey, just as the name implies,uses two sets of yarns on opposed needlesresulting in a heavier fabric that looks thesame on either side. Double knit fabrics havelittle stretch; retain their shape and worksbest for tailored garments. Each of thesefabric types is unique in appearance andfunction.Plain jersey fabricPlain jersey fabric is the simplest weftkn i t t ed s t ruc tu r e t ha t i s pos s ib l e t o produce with one set of needle. It is veryeconomical to produce. It is having definitef a c e a n d b a c k a n d i s m o s t e a s i l y recognised. Face is having all knit stitcheswith smooth texture, while back is havingpurl stitches with textured and mottledappearance. These fabrics are producedon flat as well as circular machines.

Characteristics of jersey knits•Stretch crosswise and lengthwise

Stretches more in the crosswise •Tend to run or ladder if stitch breaks Fabric less stable and curls when cut Special finishes counteract curling andimprove

stability•Highest machine productivity End-uses of jersey knits • Sheets • Sweaters • Terry robes• T-shirts • Men’s underwear•

Dresses • Hosiery and pantyhose• Fully fashion garments Jersey knit variations • Fleece • Intarsia • Jacquard knits• Knitted terry •

Knitted velour • Lisle• Plaited knits • Silver-pile knits

 

End-uses of rib knits• Collars and cuffs • Necklines • Bottomedges of sweaters • Double knits jackets •Knit hats • Men’s hosiery• • Interlock fabricInterlock structure consists of two 1 x 1rib fabrics knitted one after the other bymeans of two separate yarns, which knitsalternately on the face and back of thef ab r i c and a r e i n t e r l ocked t oge the r . Interlock is a reversible fabric, which hassimilar smooth appearance on each side.Interlock is produce on a cylinder and dialcircular weft knitting machine, withalternate long and short needles oppositeto each other on cylinder and dial.Characteristics of interlock knits• Reversible • It does not curl• Firmer fabric • Less extensible ascompared to other jersey fabrics• Heavier and thicker as compare to rib• It unroves from the course knitted thelast • Costlier fabric • Better insulator

Rib fabricRib fabric is a double jersey knitted fabricwith vertical rows (wales) of loops meshedin the opposite direction to each other.Simplest rib fabric is 1 x 1 rib havingalternate wales knitted to the front andback. The ribs tend to close up to create adouble faced fabric, which has the sameappearance on both sides. Rib knits fabrics are produced with the knittingmachines having two sets of needle,normally positioned at rights angle to each other.

Characteristics of rib knits

• Also called as double jerseys fabric• Its reversible fabric • More elastic than jersey knits • More thicker than jerseyknits • More stretch crosswise thanlengthwise • Edges do not curl • Verystable •Running and laddering still aproblem • More expensive to produce• Next highest machine productivity.End-uses of rib knits• Collars and cuffs • Necklines • Bottomedges of sweaters • Double knits jackets •Knit hats • Men’s hosiery.

Purl fabricPurl fabric has loop knitted to the frontand back on alternate courses, in contrastto a rib fabric, which is knitted to the frontand back on alternate wales. A simple purlfabric looks like somewhat like the back of  jersey knit on the both side of the fabric.The simples purl fabric is known as 1 x 1fabrics. Purl fabrics are made on knittingmachines called purl knit machines or links-or-links machines.Characteristics of purl knits•Slowest of the knitting machines•Both side similar appearance•More expensive•Good stretch in all direction•Stretches out of shape easily•Crosswise stretch less than a jersey knit•Thicker than jersey knits•Does  no t cu r l •Can be unroved fromeither end.

End uses for purl knits Infant and children’s wear• Sweaters  Scarves• Fancy garment parts

Interlock fabricInterlock structure consists of two 1 x 1rib fabrics knitted one after the other bymeans of two separate yarns, which knitsalternately on the face and back of thef ab r i c and a r e i n t e r l ocked t oge the r . Interlock is a reversible fabric, which hassimilar smooth appearance on each side.Interlock is produce on a cylinder and dialcircular weft knitting machine, withalternate long and short needles oppositeto each other on cylinder and dial.

Characteristics of interlock knits• Reversible • It does not curl• Firmer fabric • Less extensible ascompared to other jersey fabrics• Heavier and thicker as compare to rib• It unroves from the course knitted the last • Costlier fabric • Better insulator.End-uses for interlock knits• Outwear fabric • Dress wear• Skirt • Blouses • T-shirtsVariables in weft knitted fabricA great deal of variety may be created bymanipulating the following:• Fibre content • Yarn type and twist• Fabric count • Colouration • Finishesand • Variations of tuck, knit and miss stitches.

plain jersey fABRIC.

purl knit fabric..Same on both the sides.

rib knit fabric

interlock loop formation.

Advantages of flat knotting machine

1. The flat machine is the most versatile of weft knitting machines, its stitch potential includes needles election on one or both beds, racked stitches, needle-out designs, striping, tubular knitting, changes of knitting width and loop transfer.

2. A wide range of yarn counts may be knitted per machine gauge including a number of ends of yarn in one knitting system, the stitch length range is wide and there is the possibility of changing the machine gauge.

3. The operation and supervision of the machines of the simpler type is relatively less arduous than for other weft knitting machines.

4. The number of garments or panels simultaneously knitted across the machine is dependent upon its knitting width, yarn carrier arrangement, yarn path and package accommodation.

Uses of Flat Knitting Machines:   Articles knitted on flat machines range from trimmings, edgings and collars to garment panels and integrally knitted garments. The common products: jumpers, pullovers, cardigans, dresses, suits, trouser suits, hats, scarves, accessories, ribs for straight-bar machines (fully fashioned machines). Cleaning clothes, three-dimensional and fashioned products for technical applications, multiaxial machines are under development. 

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/05/main-features-of-flat-knitting-machine.html#ixzz3E2PsB0gp