TRV_W10_2011_BRAZILIANFOOD

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www.metrotravel.comMONDAY, 07 MARCH 2011

00 travel

What’s inside

DiscoverRussia onthe Trans-

Siberian{page 03}

Eye masks tohelp you

sleep wellin-flight{page 06}

Artscenester’sRome tips

{page 02}

GETTY IMAGES

we live where you’re going

{page 04}

Tasteof

Brazil

TRAVELMETRO WORLD NEWSMonday, 07 March 2011www.metrotravel.com

Top 5 F1 races for foodies {page 05} + An scenester’s guide to Rome {page 02}

Travel eyemasks

sleep easy {page 06}

DISCOVERINGRUSSIA ON THETRANS-SIBERIANEXPRESS {page 03}

we live where you’re going

GETTY IMAGES

{page 04}

Tasteof

Brazil


02 travelGET INTO MY CITY: ROME

Been therebefore?Visit Museo Praz thehouse museum of art his-torian Mario Praz, andThe Protestant Cemeteryin Testaccio. It’s nice towalk there, with lots ofgreen space, it’s whereartists and poets likeKeats and Shelley are

buried. Visit the psyche-delic Capuchin Crypt, inthe Santa Maria DellaConcezione dei Cappucci-ni church, which is deco-rated with 4,000 humanbones which are made in-to patterns. It’s scary andfascinating. Explore thearea around Via Veneto,it’s where all where theartists used to hang out.

It’s rare to find a city likeRome. It’s a contempo-rary place surrounded byhistoric ruins and this

juxtaposition is one of itsmost fascinating aspects. AsI always say "Rome is coolbecause it's not cool!" Thepace of life here is very slow,you can add an extra hourfor everything you do. As it’sin the South, outsidersthink of it as exotic. Every-

thing here is wonderful: thefood, people and places. Itsdistance from the other bigItalian cities makes it moreexciting and gives a differ-ent perspective on life, ashere you have time to digestwhat’s going on.

The cool curator’s Italy

Villa Borghese

ENIT VITO ARCOMANO

First time?Rome is basically an open-air museum. Taking awalk around and gettinglost in the centre of thecity in the middle of thenight is the best thing todo. First timers should al-so make sure they pay avisit to the Vatican Muse-um, which has one of thebiggest art collections inthe world. The Pantheonand the Coliseum are twothings you should see,considering they both rep-resent the greatness of lo-cal architecture. In theafternoon, go for a strollaround Villa BorgheseGardens,(www.galleriaborghese.it).It’s one of the biggestparks in Rome and hasfountains, temples andsculptures. The Pantheon

ENIT SANDRO BEDESSI

Shopping!The flashiest shops are onVia Condotti. It’s theequivalent of Bond Streetin London. Gammarelli iswhere I get my socks, theyare based on historicdesigns for priests and theshop still works with thechurch. The colour of thesock depends on thegrade, so you can chooseto buy a cardinal orbishop’s sock (meschaus-settesrouges.com). For clas-sic menswear I go toSchostal(schostalroma.com) andfor tailoring I go to Bomba(cristinabomba.com). Motel Slaieri is a shop andexhibition space that sells

cool brands includingComme des Garcons (mo-telsalieri.org). Not to miss,

is Miss France 1956: a shoprun by an ex-Miss Francethat opens at midnight.

Via Condotti

ENIT VITO ARCOMANO

EatGo for breakfast at Pastic-ceria Bernasconi (ViaCairoli 16), the best Jewishbakery in Rome. It’s astand-up bar so just ordera homemade cream crois-sant (cornetti) and espres-so at the counter. For

lunch I recommend DaSettimio (117 via del pelle-grino). It’s a very old placeand coming here is like go-ing for lunch at yourmother’s house. The foodis simple but sublime. I of-ten get the pasta and meat-balls. Dinner at TrattoriaMonti (Via di San Vito 13)

run by the Cameruci fami-ly, will blow you away.Franca the mother andcook makes the mostamazing egg-yolk filledpasta, tortelli. It’s verypopular though, so I wouldrecommend booking as farin advance as you can.

Capuchin Crypt

FLICKR CC BARRY ADAMS

Stay inHotel Locarno is the on-ly very chic hotel intown and it oozes oldschool glamour. (hotel-locarno.com).

Go outThe best of the worst ofRome takes place at in-famous after-hours clubFrutta e Verdura (frut-taeverdura.roma.it). Toexperience the Romanhipster scene, go to Vi-cious (viciousclub.tum-blr.com). For a morelaid back experience, Igo to Caffe Parione (ViaDella Pace 40). The 80-year-old bar tender,Ivano, makes the mostamazing cocktails.

Hotel Locarno

HOTEL LOCARNOX

As a mover and shaker of Rome’s art scene, Luca Lo Pinto is the perfect guide to the best of hiscity He is an art curator, writer and editor of Nero, a quarterly arts & culture magazine Bornin Rome but with Tuscan and Sicilian roots, Luca will fill you in on ‘his’ world: cream-filled crois-

sants, shopping for papal socks and enjoying a vodka sour at his local cocktail bar, LUCA LO PINTO [email protected]

For more informationcheck out www.italiantourism.com


03travelTRAVEL WITH A TWIST: RUSSIA BY RAILWAY

“The real joy of theTrans-Siberian iswhen you get off toexplore local areas.”

The Trans-Siberian rail routeis one of the world’s mostmemorable: stretching morethan 9,259 kilometres fromMoscow to Vladivostok, pass-ing through 87 cities andtowns, crossing seven timezones and two continents, ajourney on the Trans-Siber-ian is an extraordinary ad-venture and every momentbrings new surprises.

The truly Russian versionof the experience is ar-guably found while shack-ing up in the 3rd class –here, the carriage is effec-tively one large dormitory, aplayground in which to en-joy drink-fuelled banterwith fellow travellers andsample various culinary de-lights the hospitable Russ-ian folk have on offer.

But despite the fun of be-ing on a train ride thatseemingly never ends, thereal joy in the Trans-Siber-ian is getting off to explorelocal areas.

Ekaterinburg, the firstmajor stop in Asian Russiaalong the Trans-Siberianroute may seem to be yourtypical Russian provincialcity – but this industrial hubat the foot of the Ural Moun-tains boasts huge historic in-terest. Here you can visit thesite where Tsar Nicholas IIand the last of the Romanovdynasty were executed bythe Bolsheviks in 1918. Agrand Orthodox church withsparkling golden domes –distinctly called the Churchon Blood in Honour of AllSaints Resplendent in theRussian Land – now standson the fateful site.

Moving eastwards, try afew days living in Mongo-lian-style tents along theshores of Lake Baikal. Localssay this ancient lake is sa-

cred so it’s no wonder thatOlkhon, an island of bound-less steppe located in themiddle of the lake, is popu-lated by shamans, mysticsoothsayers that profess tobe messengers between thehuman and the spiritualworld.

On the eastern shores ofthe lake lies Ulan-Ude, atown populated by the Bury-at people, an ethnic minori-ty related to Mongolians.One of the most curioussights in his town is theworld’s largest bust of Leninon the main square. Visitorsshould also visit nearby Ivol-ginsky Datsan, a restored Ti-betan Buddhist monasteryand central Buddhist spiritu-al centre in Russia.

Getting from A to B onthis route is fun, but theTrans Siberian's real allurecomes from learning aboutthe immense variety in na-ture and in culture this vastcountry affords, when youstep off the train.

ANTHONYJOHNSTONMETRO WORLD [email protected]

Taking in Russia on theTrans-Siberian Railway

For more informationcheck out eng.rzd.ru

The Trans-Siberian

015_PHOTO CREDIT. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

One of the most exciting train journeys in the world is a six-day ride across Russia The ride on the Trans-Sibe-rian Railway is fun, but the real treats are found off the rail tracks from the heart of Moscow to the towns of Siberia

MOSCOWTaking a stroll on RedSquare, dominated by theiconic St. Basil’s Cathedraland the Kremlin, is a thrill –you’re at the very heart of‘Mother Russia’.

3PLACES TOSTOP OFFEN ROUTE

VLADIVOSTOKHome to the Russian PacificFleet, this port was closedto foreigners under commu-nism. Now visitors can seehundreds of Russian navyrecruits in smart uniform.

LAKE BAIKALLake Baikal, the world's old-est and deepest lake, is fa-mous for its pristine brightblue waters. It’s home tothousands of unique plantand animal species.

Ivolginsky Datsan

ANTHONY JOHNSTON

GETTY IMAGESFLICKR CC SYNCHROSWIMR FLICKR CC TAKWING KWONG

Quick tipsEATStock up with Russian get-together snacks, includingpancakes with red caviar,salt-dried vobla fish, porkfat (a delicacy known as ‘sa-lo’) and the popular Russianbeer, ‘Siberian Crown’.

STAYHotel Baikal in the quaint

village of Listvyanka boastsimpressive panoramas ofRussia’s sacred lake. In win-ter this 1970s hotel lookslike the Overlook Hotelfrom movie “The Shining”!lakebaikaltravel.com

SHOPVisit Vernisazh market lessthan 4km northeast ofMoscow for matrioshka dollsto real fur Ushanka hats.

Brazil’s cuisine is as diverse as the country is vast Fortunately it’s possible to try out all the culinary treats thecountry has to offer in the city of São Paulo All dishes are washed down with the national drink, the caipirinha


04 travelGOURMET TRAVELLER: BRAZIL

“The cuisine is asvaried and ascolourful as thiscountry’s people”

You may be more familiarwith its dance or musicstyles, but Brazil offers a sin-gular gastronomical experi-ence, particularly forcarnivores. Prepare yourselffor high quality meats,strong seasoning andmouth-watering dishes withbold flavors. And prepare tofind it all in one place.

In the city of São Paulovisitors can try the special-ties of Brazil in one sprawl-ing metropolis, offeringrestaurants for every region-al cuisine and budget.

Some of the most distinc-tive dishes come from thenorth-eastern states, includ-ing Bahia, which boasts theexotic, historical city of Sal-vador. Dishes here get theirunique flavour from palmoil and coriander. Anotherspecialty of the northeast-ern states is beef jerky.

A Sunday lunch favouriteis the ‘feijoada’, a heavystew made with black beansand different cuts of pork.This filling dish should beaccompanied by a glass ofcaipirinha – a typical Brazil-ian drink prepared withcachaça, a strong alcoholic

drink made from sugarcane. You might also like toschedule in a siesta to allowyourself to digest.

The dining experiencehere is often interactive. Trythe self-service kilo-buffet‘bufet a kilo’, or a carnivo-rous churrascaria, a rotis-

serie-style restaurant wherewaiters come to your tableto carve slices of differentcuts of juicy roasted meatfrom huge skewers ontoyour plate. Each diner is giv-en a disc, which is green onthe one side, red on the oth-er, so waiters know whether

or not you’re ready for yournext round. Novices caneven ask for a map thatshows you what part of thecow you’re eating.

BARBECUE

The specialty of Rio Grandedo Sul state, in the southernregion of Brazil. At abarbeque, or ‘churrascaria’,different cuts of beef areroasted over coals and carvedat your table. Side dishes in-cluding rice and salad are all-you-can-eat and self-service.

5DISHES TO TRY...WHENYOU’REDINING INSAO PAULO

MOQUECA DEPEIXEThis Northeastern speciality isa thick stew of seasoned fishand seafood. Each region ofthe country has its special ver-sion: the traditional moquecafrom the state of Bahia is pre-pared with coconut milk andpalm oil.

ACARAJÉ

An Afro-Brazilian dish typicalof the North-East, acarajé is aball made from a paste ofblack-eyed beans, onions andsalt, deep-fried in palm oil.The ball is stuffed withshrimp, pepper, vatapá (adish prepared with seafood)and salad.

LEMON CAIPIRINHAThe national cocktail isprepared with cachaça,Brazil’s answer to rum. Thispotent drink accompanies fei-joadas, barbecues and sunnyafternoons on the beach.Crush limes with sugar, thenadd ice and cachaca, stir, thenpour into a frozen glass.

ESCONDIDINHO

A typical dish from Pernam-buco state, in the North-Eastl,and from cities in the centralstate of Minas Gerais, escon-didinho is prepared withshredded jerked meat andmashed manioc. Chefs usual-ly use butter as a seasoningand topped with curd cheese.

Quick tipsBUYSample Brazil’s most exoticfruits at the huge marketMercadão in downtownSão Paulo. It’s also a placeto try snacks including salt-cod pasties ‘pastéis de ba-calhau’, chewy cheese rolls,‘pão de queijo’, the energy-boosting pulp of the acaifruit from the Amazon andthe famous bologna meatsandwich. mercadomunici-

pal.com.br

LEARNLearn how to prepare agood moqueca at CapimSanto restaurant. The chefcan teach you how to cooktraditional and historicdishes and even dishes cre-ated for the Afro-Brazilianreligion, Candomble.When you escape the city,visit their blissful pousadain Trancoso, Bahia. capim-

santo.com.br

STAYFor a treat, stay at HotelUnique. Food at the hotel’srestaurant is inspired bythe mix of Brazilian,French, Italian and Japan-ese culinary cultures in thecity. It has incredible viewsover Sao Paulo and does asuperb caipirinha. hotelu-

nique.com.br

Get a flavour forBrazil in Sao Paulo

Carnivores will love churrascaria restaurants

CAIO GUATELLI-FOLHAPRESS

For more informationcheck out www.brazil-tour.com

XXXCAIO GUATELLI-FOLHAPRESS

MARIANNAPEDROZOMETRO [email protected]


05travelTOP 5: PLACES TO EAT OUT DURING THE F1 SEASON

1MELBOURNE

March 27

Taxi It’s Japanese-Australian fu-sion here: “A great buzzyrestaurant. The chefs areon show and it is great towatch the massively busykitchen at work. The foodis art and all tastes greatwithout exception. Thestaff knows their stuff andare obviously foodies too,describing all the food withgreat enthusiasm and totop it all off there is a fabu-lous wine list with lots oflocal wines and a sommeli-er who knows his wine. Inever miss a visit to Taxi.”transporthotel.com.au

2SHANGHAI

April 17

T8“Yummy fusion food in arestaurant with an Asianambience, in a fun part ofthe city. We always have ateam party here and thechefs and hospitality lovethe food – the staff are gra-cious and charming. Theyhave a boutique wine listthat is very welcome, it’sgreat to have wines thatare as delicious as the dish-es they serve. I am alwaysinspired when we eatthere. The kitchen is open-plan with bar seats so youcan look straight into thekitchen.” t8shanghai.com

5SILVERSTONE

July 10

The Kingham Plough“The best gastro pub tovisit from Silverstone is ashort drive away, in Chip-ping Norton, Oxfordshire.The Kingham Plough’s chefEmily Watkins was trainedby [culinary maverick] Hes-ton Blumenthal so thefood is fun and interestingbut is still approachable,so not too intense after aday at the track. It’s also agreat place to stay as therooms are beautiful anddecorated in a simple chicEnglish style.”thekinghamplough.co.uk

3VALENCIA

June 26

El Molinon“This is a fabulous littlefind – a great cider andtapas bar. It is quiteunique, with little barrelson the sawdust floor thatare actually spittoons. Thecider is poured from arms’length at a height and it isjust great to watch. Loadsof locals fill the place andthe tapas is amazing! Thestaff are also friendly, soyou really feel at home.“C/ Bolsería, 40, 46001 Va-lencia, Spain

4MONTE CARLO

May 29

Alain Ducasse at La Bastide de Moustiers“Top chef Alain Ducasse’srestaurant in Provence is aplace to visit before or af-ter the Grand Prix. Thefood is cooked each day ac-cording to what isavailable from the gardenand locally. It is agastronomic paradise – thebest food cooked underthe watching eye of thegreat chef himself in oneof the most stunningplaces in the world.” bastide-moustiers.com

“Celebrate yourfavourite team’sresults at one of thebest restaurants onthe F1 circuit.”

Going to an F1 race is agreat excuse to have a miniholiday; watch the racesduring the day and eat outin the evenings. We got ourrestaurant tips from foodieand F1 circuit veteran, Lyn-dy Redding. She’s ManagingDirector of Absolute Taste,the catering company thatfeeds the hungry drivers,engineers and VIP guests ofMcLaren Mercedes team.

For more informationcheck outwww.f1.com

The F1 season for foodiesGETTY IMAGES

There are 19 GP races that could be the focus of a memorable weekend trip Make a holiday of the most invitingdestinations The head of catering at McLaren-Mercedes gives her top five restaurants on the F1 season circuit

EMMA E. FORRESTMETRO WORLD [email protected]

3 FOR SWEETDREAMS

Otis Batterbee’s Prince ofWales check sleep mask isone for the first class flyerwho has it all. €50, $69,

www.otisbatterbee.com

1 OTIS BATTERBEE

TRAVEL EYE MASK

If you’re conscious aboutyour carbon footprint, butstill don’t mind spendingmoney on a sleep mask,then this, made from organ-ic cotton and wool, isdefinitely for you. €22, $30,

www.dreamessentials.com

2 NATURA ORGANIC

SLEEP MASK

It may look like a virtual real-ity mask, but it’s the practi-cal option for those businesstypes who are serious abouttheir sleep, with completeblackout fabric and earmuffs to block out soundtoo. €29, $36,

www.hibermate.com MWN

3 HIBERMATE

SLEEP MASK

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