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  • 7/28/2019 Trouser01.doc

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    BASIC TROUSER DRAFT (plain fronts)Measurements.Outside leg 102cmInside leg 76cmWaist 84cmSeat 100cmKnee 52cmBottoms 44cm

    TOPSIDE

    Lay out your diagram paper. Draw a line down the paper about 20cm in from edge.Make line equal to the side seam length.

    Locate point 1 at the top right of paper.2 from 1 = the rise measure less 3cm.3 from 2 = the inside leg measure.4 from 3 = 1/2 the leg measure + 5cm to locatethe knee positionSquare both ways from 1, 2, 3, and 4

    5 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measure6 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measureDivide 5 and 2 to locate 7, (Equal to 1/12 seat.)Square up from 7 to locate 8 on the line squaredacross from 1Measure back on the line 8 - 1; make this equal to1/4 of the waist measure + 2cm locate point 9(This is the front waist line .)10 From 7 = 1cm, Connect 10 to 811 From 7 = 1/12 of the seat, square back 1/4 of the seat measure to locate 12

    Draw a short line at a 45% angle from 7 andlocate 13 equal to 4.5cmStarting on the line 8 to 10, at point just above 11,

    draw a curve down through 13 into point 5(This gives you the front fly line .)14 and 15 = Half the knee measure dividedequally each side of point 416 and 17 = Half the bottom measure dividedequally each side of point 3Now, connect point 5 through point 14 down topoint 16 for the inside leg seam.

    Connect point 9 with a gentle curve, down throughpoint 12 to point 6 and onto point 15 at the kneeand down into point 17 at the bottom of the leg.(This gives you the side seam run, point 15 to 17 can be drawn with a straight line .)

    This completes thetopside .

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    UNDERSIDE

    Measure out 2cm from points 14, 15, 16, 17, and locate 14a, 15a, 16a, and 17a.Measure out 5cm from point 5 and locate 5a.Shape the inside leg seam.Measure from point 14 to 5 and make 14a to 5a the same measure. (Point 5a will drop below the linesquared from 5.18 From 11 = the same distance as 7 to 11 (1/12 of the seat)19 is midway between 5 and 7. Draw a line from 19 through 18 and continue the line above the top of

    the trouser.Locate point 20 on the intersection of thefront waist line. (This gives you your seatangle.)21 From 20 = the same as 5 to 19.Shape the back seat seam by curving fromthe seat angle at a point opposite point 11and run into point 5a with a gentle curve.To give a clean seam at the back, dontmake the curve anymore than 1.5cm from

    the fly line.22 from 21 = 1/4 of the waist + 5cm and islocated on the line squared out from 923 is measured from point 18 and = 1/4 of the seat + 5cm and is located on the linesquared out from point 12.Shape the side seam from 22 through point23 and continue down to points 14a to 17a.Measure midway between points 21 and 22,make point 24 1cm back towards point 22.Square down from the waistline about 8cm

    for back dart.Complete the dart by dividing 1.5cm eachside of the dart line= 3cm. Mark dart asshown.

    This completes the trouser draft!