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Zero
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Co
nte
nts
Synopsis ...5Cross sector analysis ...6,7Trend direction: Womenswear ...8,9Catwalk analysis ...10-17Sillhouettes ...18,19Key shapes ...20-23Range plan ...24Fabric ...26,27Texture ...28Colour ...29-32Styling ...34-36Accessories ...37,38Details ...40-44Branding, labelling and packaging ...45Wearable technology ...47Blue sky thinking ...48-50Bookshelf ...51
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Syn
op
sis
| Climate change is no longer a conspiracy, ice sheets are melting, temperatures are rising and species are disappearing. Each year, human consumption is increasing and we are losing touch with the natural pace of the planet. Our level of consumption has now led us to the anthropocene age in which human activity has been been the dominant influence on climate and the environment. Our demand for faster and more frequent, low-price product has bought us all to an undeniably scary, daunting and important milestone at which every human being must change their lifestyle and demand change from the companies that fund them.
A clarity in what we deplete is needed, with upfront labelling, honest selling points, visible corporate responsibility and a genuine durability promise. Consumers need a peaceful, slower, cleaner and resourceful approach to products to make them feel less culpability for the ever lasting damage to our home. Functional, organic garments made from renewable and biodegradable fabrics will phase in the idea of slower, anti-consumption lifestyles, revitalising the consumers idea of what sustainable really means. Low impact will no longer be viewed as boring or uninspiring. Being individual while solicitous in purchaisng items will becomenormal and brands will have to accommodate.
Gentle and earthy colour pallets will prove a grateful approach towards natural resources and encourage a return to basics. Facilitating loose silhouettes with large pockets, quick fastenings and the ability to layer up for any season fosters a feeling of consistency, productivity and resourcefulness. Detoxing our life must now go beyond the way we travel and eat, we must pursue clean living in everything we buy, use and wear; not only to save the planet, but to save ourselves from the stress, anxiety and low self worth extreme consumerism inflicts on us.
Preserving our one and only home planet now requires a fresh, elementary approach, utilising our technological advances, reducing our fear of desertification, climate change and extinction.
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Cro
ss s
ecto
r an
alys
is
|Clean|Fresh |Durable|Natural |Raw |Clarity |Precise|Sharp |Honest
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|Authentic|Bare|Efficient |Responisble |Minimizing |Resourceful|Concious
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Tre
nd
dir
ecti
on
: W
om
ensw
ear
Relaxed|Functional|Pracitcal|Loose|Pure|Subtle|Layered
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Classic|Utilitarianism|Modern|Linear|Refined|Transitional|Neutral
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Cat
wal
k an
alys
isA
nth
ony
Tho
mas
Mel
illo
pre
fal
l 2
01
6
| Casual| Active| Gentle
| Subtle| Modern|Linear
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| Elegant | Soft
| Stripped back
| Draped| Layered|Simple
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S/S
20
16
: T
IBI
| Refined| Gentle
| Airy
| Free|Light|Nude
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| Loose| Functional
|Asymmetrical
| Transitional| Slouchy
| Utilitarianism
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Cal
vin
Kli
en P
re F
all
20
16
|Open|Contrast|Straight
| Layered| Oversized
|Neutral
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| Classic|Wide
| Masculine
|Draping|Jut
|Poised
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Yeo
hlee
Res
ort
20
16
| Practical| Oversized
|Sleek
| Basic| Straight silhouette
| Versatile
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| Functional| Clean
| Gender neutral
| Genderless| Draped| Classic
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Silh
ou
ette
s
|Lightweight layering |Oversizing
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|Straight sillhouette |Draped
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Key
ite
ms
| Classic, clean lines and simple cuts refine modern day practical key items. Wide leg trousers and turned up joggers add a masculine feel, while loose layering and varying lengths prove the versatility of the trend. Scooped and v necklines offer a variety of possibilities when layering and large, accessible pockets and quick fastenings highlight the functionality of the garments.
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| V-neck camisole Spaghetti straps
Finishing at the hips
| Basic white shirtSpread collar
Long cuffs
| Polo neck knit jumperOversized
Dropped sleeves
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| Jogger style trousersDrawstring waist
Turn ups
| FlaresOversized pockets
Fitted waist
| Pencil skirtMid length
Fitted with waist darts
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| Long leg dungareesMasculine
Front and back pockets
| Maxi coatStreamlinedOversized
| Mini shift dressFront facing pockets
Sleeveless
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Ran
ge p
lan
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| Relaxed |Loose|Pure| Subtle |Neutral
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Co
re F
abri
cs
| Up-cycled, organic, cruelty-free and low-energy/water-usage.
| Traceability and responsible manufacturing with regards to pollution output.
| No/little artificial blends with many fabrics being biodegradable. | Lightweight and durable with minimal dying.
| Cotton, Denim, Hemp, Linen, Wool.
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Acc
ent
Fab
rics
| ‘Grown’ materials:
|Pinatex leather, made from pineapple fibres that are the by-product of pineapple harvest.
|Banana cotton made from banana plant stems which are typically wasted. Banana plantations in the Philippines alone can generate over 300,000 tonnes of fibre.
|Atlantic leather is created from waste product left by the food or agricultural industry.
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Tex
ture
| Simple textures with an updated, sustainable approach, creating discreet texture; often through unfinished fibres or natural dyeing processes.
| Made from raw, renewable and refined products.
| Fresh finishes with minimal dyeing and non-toxic coating.
| Authenticity, durability and guilt-free quality will be the biggest selling points.
| Bamboo yarn is an example of the type of smooth yet raw texture to be seen.
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Col
our
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Mon
ochr
omat
ic ti
nts
Mon
ochr
omat
ic sh
ades
Caramel latte
Hay bale
Almond white
India yellow
Frosted steel
Absolute white
Rich black
Black blue
Cor
e
Acc
ent
Cor
e
Acc
ent
Core pallets| Used on key items to build a basic look and begin layeringClassic, basic shades of black through to white enable items to be worn with wide varieties of colour, during all seasons and regardless of occasion.
Neutral tints of yellow down to beige, almost skin like colours, add a human feel to highlight the human influence on the trend.
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Oxford stone
Com
plem
enta
ryPolished pebbble
Soft stone
White mist
Misty mirror
London stone
Cor
eC
ore
Acc
ent
Acc
ent
Com
plem
enta
ry
Plummet
White mist
Intense truffle
Accent pallets| Most likely to be seen on accessories, outerwear or bold garments Gentle, light complementary colours similar to eggshell tones reinforce the idea of living softly, thoughtfully and peaceable.
Warmer, stronger brown tinted colours feel stronger, more protective and ambitious and complement both core pallets.
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Co
lou
r P
alet
te
White mist
Misty mirror
Hay bale
Frosted steel
Oxford stone
Plummet
Rich black
Oxford stone
Plummet
White mist
Misty mirror
Hay bale
Frosted steel Rich blackCor
e
Acc
ent
| An overall complementary colour palette made of warm and cooler tones, offers a wide range of possibilities when styling and creating garments.
Stronger brown tinted colours feel more protective and ambitious.
While soft, light complementary colours reinforce the idea of living clean and minimal.
The balance between these two summarises the trends empowering elements, while maintaining the simplicity of consuming less and being gentle to the planet.
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|Clean|Fresh|Natural|Free|Light
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Styl
ing
|Day to night |Season to season |Casual to formal
|Contrasting colours |Varying lengths
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|Small details |Layering |Functionality| Comfort
|Classic |Minimalist |Prominent items/accessories
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|Inventive |Multi-wear| Changeable
|Oversized| Modern|Refined | Transitional
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Foo
twea
r an
d A
cces
sori
es
| On the go, easy fastening, active accessories.
| Simple, folding clutch bag that can change in shape and size, with an attachable strap.
| Trainers, in black and white colour combinations to make them wearable with all outfits.
| New, advanced ‘Hickie’ laces that are qucicker to fasten and move in sync with your feet for comfort and flexibility.
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Jew
elle
ry
| Slow creation| Biodegradable
| Valuable
| Recycled| Unique| Modern
| Kate Voilova creates beautiful pieces of jewellery using an elctroforming method, she covers natural earthly things with metal. The idea is to preserve some of natures most beautiful objects in a modern, wearable way.
| Paula Ortega’s latest collection of jewellery is made from milk proteins and metal. The jewellery is mostly biodegradable and is not meant to last a lifetime, making it more precious, encouraging the wearer to value the items more.
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|Authentic|Bare|Minimizing |Natural
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Det
aili
ng
Ven
ts
Dra
wst
rin
g ad
just
men
t
Slit
po
cket
s
Cle
an c
ut
fin
ishe
s
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Ven
ts
| Vents on the sleeves and side seams of jumpers make them more functional and transitional between seasons.
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Slit
po
cket
s
| Hip slit pockets on outwear, trousers and one pieces provide utility and accessibility in all outfit combinations.
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Dra
wst
rin
g ad
just
men
t
| Drawstring adjustment on the waist and hips of one pieces and trousers provides adjustibility day to day and through seasons. Also, it provides more comfort and options when layering to create new sillhouettes.
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Cle
an c
ut
fin
ishe
s
| Clean cut finishes on all garments proves a modern, updated take on sustainable and reduced fashion. The idea of using less and instead using things more often, is more appealing when items look and feelluxurious and polished.
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Bra
nd
ing,
lab
elli
ng
& p
acka
gin
g
| Basic, reduced branding labelling and packaging is important in reducing waste.
| Simple, honest brands with upfront selling points.
| ‘What you see is what you get’.
|Recycled containers, tags and bags further enforce the concept of sustainability.
|Brief, to the point packaging descriptions save space and waste when labelling and packaging items.
|Symbols of approval regarding sustainability, recycling and planet friendliness make products stand out.
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|Classic|Clean|Oversized |Lightweight
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Wea
rabl
e te
chn
olo
gy
|Empowering| Bold
| Progressive|Interchangeable
| Clip-on
|TZOA is a wearable device that monitors environmental data including air quality, humidity, temperature, light levels and UV radiation, and presents the metrics via an app. It is small, clips on to backpack’s, jackets or wallets and has interchangeable metallic triangular caps.
The collected data is used to build crowdsourced city-wide maps so users can track worst-affected areas on the app and steer clear if they wish. Users can have a direct impact on their environment and help build a powerful tool to influence environmental policy.
The app uses a minimal layout and bold graphics to illustrate the data, making it understandable for all audiences.
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Blu
e sk
y th
inki
ng
Algaemy by Blond & Bieber is a project investigating the potential of micro-algae for dyeing fabric by developing an analogue textile printer that produces its own pigment. This would be a less toxic option for dyeing clothing.
Teams from MIT Media Lab and the Royal College of Art have used bacteria to design a “bio-skin” fabric that peels back in reaction to sweat and humidity. The fabric relies on bacteria reportedly discovered 1,000 years ago .“We’re starting to build up an automatic printing system in which fresh cells can be assembled on a thin fabric,” said MIT Media Lab’s Jifei Ou. The team is reportedly working with sports brand New Balance on ways to incorporate the fabric into sportswear. This fabric could make everyday items more functional and transitional into sportswear. Also, it uses natural, non toxic bacteria which is planet friendly.
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Researchers at Michigan State University (MSU), have developed a completely transparent solar panel that could mean entire buildings and panes of glass could generate solar energy.
The solar panel is still in its prototype stage and the researchers hope to refine their creation for uses in the industrial industry and manageable gadgets like handheld devices.
The solar material could be used on accessories and combined with existing wearable technology, making items much more efficient and sustainable.
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London designer Benjamin Hubert has partnered with the environmental consultancy ‘Carbon Trust’ to produce a concept wristband that could track individual carbon footprints. The ‘WorldBeing’ wristband will link to a smartphone or tablet app and could measure and report on everything from items purchased, to modes of transport taken and energy used in the wearers’ home.
Instant visual feedback could be provided to wearers of the wristband throughout the day, using cloud-shaped graphics that would change colour and size to indicate carbon consumption. An inbuilt electrocardiogram (ECG) sensor could also measure the wearer’s heartbeat, and use it as a unique signature for secure contactless payments.
An accompanying app would offer rewards – including discounts at local businesses – and competition with other users would be used to encourage wearers to better their individual carbon “scores”.
“There has never been a better time to use design as a tool to create meaningful conversation around our personal responsibility to make changes to our lifestyles to stop global warming,” said Hubert.
Hubert has designed the wristband to be injection-moulded from recycled discarded devices, to take advantage of the 20 to 50 million tonnes of electronic waste generated around the world each year.
While some of the proposed functions aren’t achievable yet, Hubert and the Carbon Fund are currently raising awareness of the project and plan to invite a round of investors to help bring the project to reality in the future.
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Bo
oks
helf
The Sustainable Fashion Handbook
by Sandy Black
Wear no evilGreta Egan
This Changes Everything Naomi Klein
The Age of Sustainable Development
Jeffrey D. Sachs
Don’t Even Think About It
George Marshall
The Sixth ExtinctionElizabeth Kolbert
To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World?
Lucy Siegle
The Complete Zero Waste Minimalism Guide
Lucy Johnson
Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of
FashionTansy E. Hoskins
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J e s s i c a C l a r k e
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Ref
eren
ces
Front cover: Louise Mikkelsen by Sephen Ward for Elle Australia - February 2015- http://oraclefox.com/2015/01/23/elle-australia-fashion-editorial-louise-mikkelsen-sara-smith-oracle-fox/ - Last accessed 15/01/16
Page three: Andreas Ohlund& Maria Therese photography- 2015 - http://www.andreasohlund-mariatherese.com/ - Last accessed 15/01/16
Page four : Louise Mikkelsen by Sephen Ward for Elle Australia - February 2015- http://oraclefox.com/2015/01/23/elle-australia-fashion-editorial-louise-mikkelsen-sara-smith-oracle-fox/ - Last accessed 15/01/16
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