Trends in functional fabrics

kick off Summer 2020

Presented by Performance Days/Ulrike Arlt

Keywords at a glance

FUNCTION: Very fashionable

FASHION: Nature at its best, but functionable

JURYS PICK/FOCUS TOPIC: Cooling

Jurys Pick:

Cooling

• Proper climate management is one of the most important features of

functional clothing

• The wearer should always feel comfortable regardless of sport activity or

even while at rest - that means, not too hot or too cold

• Particularly in the summer time, the fabrics and designs for sport

clothing must keep the body cool or actively regulate the body heat

generated by the activity as well as from the ambient temperature

• In the summer time, cooling by evaporation of the sweat is the most

effectice way. The right fabrics and garments can improve the effect!

Jurys Pick:

Cooling There are different solutions to provide cooling by fabrics:

• Construction of the yarn / fabric – offering a huge surface to spread

the moisture and help the sweat evaporate faster

• Choosing the right fibers which do not store humidity and have

hydrophobic properties (PP, PES, PA… )

• Wool or Xilitol – materials that can change humidity into cold by

chemical and physical reactions

• By using PCM

• By using reflective materials that prevents from heating up the fabric

If you want to know how cooling a body really works and can be

measured – don’t miss the lecture of Dr Jan Beringer / Hohenstein on

Thursday…

Jurys Pick:

Cooling by Construction

Intelligent construction

enlarges the surface

• every fabric is a three-

dimensional structure

• if it is designed so

that it emphasises the

three-dimensionality

even stronger, the

surface is increased

manifold

• this can be achieved by

means of various

knitting techniques

Jurys Pick:

Cooling by Construction

• mesh constructions are very

popular

• the particularly open

structure facilitate

evaporation, and ventilation

also

• honeycomb structures or

other high/low designs are

also ideal for enlarging the

surface

• construction also plays a

role in yarn

• a fibre cross-section that

looks like a propeller allows

for a significantly larger

surface area

Jurys Pick:

Cooling by Yarn

Jurys Pick:

Cooling by Additives• Don’t forget the additives

• Activated carbon

particles, for example,

can be added during the

spinning process, and are

thus permanently

integrated into the fibre

• Activated carbon has a

very large surface area

due to its porous

structure

• = very good moisture

transport and spreading,

fast evaporation, good

cooling effect

Jurys Pick:

Cooling by Additives• PCM: microscopic small

capsules that are filled

with a particular type of

paraffin

• They deprive the body of

excess heat, by a change in

the state of aggregation

within. Body heat causes

the paraffin to melt

• PCM can be introduced as a

print or finishing onto the

fabric

• or integrated into the fibre

during the spinning process

• The effect works in both

directions

Jurys Pick:

Cooling by Prints

• If a fabric is printed on the

backside, you cannot

automatically recognise how

the print works

• It could be, that PCM were

applied, or also activated

carbon particles

• the exact dosage of the

necessary amount of the

active substances can be

applied to the field of

application

Jurys Pick:

Cooling by Prints

• Even minerals or ceramics

can be integrated into the

carrier mass.

• These materials are deployed

to block heat radiation from

outside forces.

• This can also give rise to a

significant positive effect in

summer by lowering the skin

temperature, especially when

darker fabrics are so

equipped.

Baselayer

Natural fibers:

• summer wool –

mostly merino

qualities, even

with body mapping

stuctures

• new blends: wool

plus Tencel or

Linen

• lots of Tencel

stories

• extra fine knitwear

up to 60 gg

Baselayer• summer feeling

with hidden

mesh structures

• prints &

jacquards

• fashionable but

functional

fabrics

• new

biodegradable

PA fabrics

(Apexa)

• lots of recycled

materials

• reversible

structure

concepts

• slub effects

BaselayerConstructions (yarns/fabrics)

3D structures

• lots of recycled yarns

• special cross-sections

• mesh

• eyelets

• jacquards

Functions (by construction or finishing)

• odor management

• quick-drying properties

• UV protection

Midlayer• less brushed backings

(microplastics!)

• lots of structures on

the backsides, not

grids but honeycomb

etc.

• natural & casual look

MidlayerNew technical

stories:

• very dense

fabrics – low

weight, good

warmth retention

for cold summer

days

• summer spacer,

light and

ventilating

•some woven

fabrics

• high abrasion

qualities

Midlayer

• lots of recycled

materials

• biodegradable

fabrics (to avoid

microplastics)

• organic PA

coming from

castor beans

Softshell

• light

• soft

• very elastic

• highly breathable &

windproof

• one option: flat designs

without pile or structures

• blends of merino and

synthetic fibers, merino

backings

• urban looks, even if the

fabric is very functional

• double weaves and

laminates

• more wovens

Softshell

• 3-layer constructions,

insulated in between

• urban, fancy and

rustique looks

• structured surfaces

• interesting surfaces

with clean backings

Softshell

• or: clean,

technical

surfaces,

interesting

backings, with

3D pattern =

quick drying

summer

qualities

2-Layer

Hardshell• Urban look, natural

handfeel, but very

functional

• high water column

(hydrostatic head)

up to 40K, average

performance

10K/10K

• good breathability

• top function, even

with recycled

fabrics

• bio-based chemical

fibers (coffee

grounds, castor

bean)

2-Layer

Hardshell

• casual, urban looks

with new

fashionable

patterns/jacquards

or prints (even

reflective), little

bit fancy

• stretchy

• convenient

• good & soft

handfeel

• even 100% CO

lamiantes

2-Layer

Hardshell

3-Layer

• soft and as

elastic as

softshell fabrics,

but tapeable

• highly functional

with cosy

handfeel

• very light

starting from

57 gr

• watercolumn and

breathability

up to 50K

• Eco stories: 100%

recycled PES

3-Layer

3-Layer

• lots of 2.5 layer

fabrics

• some with

functional prints

inside (coming from

S Café, or

Cocona/37.5

with additional

functions)

• clean surfaces

• glow in the dark

materials

• more and more C0

DWR

High Density & Lightweight• top function

below 100

g/m², average

around 50

g/m²

• up to 20K

water column

(hydrostatic

head) and 40K

breathability

• but more and

more

fashionable

looks!

High Density & Lightweight

• casual styles,

tie-dye patterns

• digital prints

• reflective

prints

• semi-

transparent, but

dense

• lots of “Jury

Likes” in this

category

High Density & Lightweight

Shirts & Pants

• hidden functions

for the shirt

fabrics

• good moisture

management

• odor

management

• UV protection

• natural colors,

natural fibers

like kapok, linen,

tencel, organic

cotton

• new summer

blend: PES & CO

Shirts & Pants

Pants fabrics:

• highly elastic, great

double weaves

• Some compressive

fabrics for all types of

outdoor sports, with

more than 20% Spandex

• 3D structures on the

inside

• elastic denims

Shirts & Pants

Athleisure

Urban sportswear

– from office to

gym:

• great diversity

of looks: Soft,

shiny, matte…

plain, pile,

terry…

• natural looks as

well as funky

and modern

looks

• Cupro is

coming

Athleisure

• great eco-

stories

• function

from

nature:

organic CO,

Tencel,

wool, kapok

• natural look

& super soft

handfeel

Athleisure

Heavy Duty

• high vis combined with abrasion or tear resistance

• even recycled high vis fabrics

• flame retardant

• multi functional styles for outdoor sports

• extremely rugged 3-layer (pants) fabrics with up to 1 million Martindale

Heavy Duty