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A Journey Through Time (A trek through Zanskar, Laddakh, in August 2001)

Om Mani Padme Hum.. Om Mani Padme Hum.. Om Mani Padme Hum..

Where was this low sound coming from - Outside? Inside? this chant, rising over and above the constant noise of Photang river? The Hum rhyming well with the painful thump in my left foot with every step.. The two walls ever converging in a dead end.. Well, time to meet all your fears and hold a little conversation- I said to myself, as I continued walking in a narrow canyon, by the side of a fickle stream.. Somewhere in northern Zanskar.

This was my third journey to a region which is as stark as it is fascinating; as colorful as it is barren; as attractive as it is forbidding.. But first, a little background to this trek.

My first trip to this region was by scooter in July 1997; It was more like a rapid recce of this region of high passes and unending plains. In eleven days I passed through Manali, Leh, Kargil, Drass, Srinagar, Udhampur, Chandigarh and back to Dehradun a journey of about 3000 km. It was an ovation to Bajaj Chetak

i, that only towards the end of this grueling journey, the clutch

wire gave way in Chandigarh. That was all !

My second trip took place in July 2000. This time I decided to explore this region on foot. Drove by bus to Darcha which is about 140 km on a dusty road from Manali, across the Rohtang pass. From Darcha one leaves the road and follows the old trail across Shingo-la, then the steep descent into Zanskar valley - and finally on the fourth day, the first little village of Kargyak appeared on the horizon. Next three to four days, it was a trek along Kargyak Chu river, which becomes mightier and faster as it approaches Padum, the ancient capital of this region.

During that last trip, on the eighth day when I walked into Padum, my Hunter shoes gave way. I could not continue the second part of the trek: Padum to Lamayuru- which is another 8-10 days journey. So, I caught the Kargil bus and drove by the side of the impressive massif of Nun Kun peaks. Both these peaks top the 7000 meter mark and yet the Border Roads Organization has been able to build a road right under their noses! Of course, the quality of the road would permit survival of the fittest only!

I undertook this present third journey to complete what was left in the middle last time. Taking no chances, I was carrying two pairs of shoes this time: A pair of DM

ii boots and a pair of Actions. DM is still with me, though much humbled and the fate of my

Actions you will soon discover.

Since I had already approached Zanskar through Shingo-la (5090 mt) last year, I decided to try out an alternative approach this time: Phirtse-la (5250 mt). It is used infrequently even by locals; I discovered why It is higher, has few camping sites, has two river crossings and many of the streams along the way were dry- at least this year. There are no shops or villages for about three to four days. But both these passes finally link southern Zanskar to Lahaul valley via Chandratal trail and may have been an important route in the days before modern roads.

Kullu or Manali? If you are traveling from the north Indian plains, it is better to stop for the night at Kullu, 40 km before Manali. Kullu is much less - crowded, touristy and expensive- and the buses for onward journey to Keylang / Darcha / Leh start from here, hence it is easier to get a seat, at times even without advance booking. Getting the same bus from Manali is often difficult in the tourist season. Taxis too can be hired from here. Now, to get to Kullu, it is better to catch a night bus from Chandigarh, though there are many day buses as well; It is cooler and faster during the night and if you dont particularly need to rest, you can immediately continue onwards to Darcha next morning as the bus arrives in Kulu around 6 am. Hotel Nest, next door to the Kullu bus stand is a reasonable place to spend a night at Rs 125 200 for a room.

Beyond Rohtang Jot As the bus groans and climbs this 4000 mt pass, a different face of Himalaya is unveiled; This is the farthest the monsoons travel. Lee side of the pass is dry and bare. Whatever streams one sees are fed by snows from the heights. Around these few streams are located sparse habitations. Houses have flat mud roofs since it rarely rains here. Jot is a pass in Himachali as La is in Laddakhi dialect.

Top of Rohtang has become a rather cheap picnic spot for city crowds due to the good road. It offers this amazing facility. While climbing up to the pass, there are many roadside shops renting out snow-boots, great-coats, sheep-skin caps, cameras etc. Armed with these, one can drive to the pass and walk off the road onto snow and have a great photo session! There are many shops on top of the pass, offering almost everything from coke to noodles to Buddha figurines. Even wine shops are there! Where the money is, shops shall follow!

There are two buses (6am and 7am) for Darcha from Kullu. If you were lazy enough, like I was, to get the second one, then you will have to roam around Keylong for about two hours, the only Lahauli town on this highway, 115 km from Manali. Only after a long checkup at the workshop in Keylong, will this bus move on to Darcha which is only 25 km away. Instead of waiting, I decided to take a ride with a truck. I wanted to get beyond Darcha, since I had to use Phirtse-la route. This trail can be picked up from Patseo, or from the top of Baralach la (4892 mt), Kilang serai or beyond, from Sarchu plains.

The truck left Keylong around 4 pm but since the road is bad, it reached Patseo past 6 pm. Army unit here, stops all traffic after 6 pm. This is done in view of the difficult climb to Baralach la beyond it. But they also offer free dinner and breakfast to tourists forced to camp thus. This was 1

st August 2001.

By the way, Between Manali and Leh, only Keylong has the STD and email facility. Close to Darcha, Jispa too has STD facility which works only occasionally.

Manali

To Leh

Rohtang Baralachla

Pass

Chandra tal, lahaul

Lingti R

Phirtse

Tanze v

Shingola

Darcha-Padum Trail

Kargyak R

N

Sarchu

Darcha

Phirtse la trail

Sarchu Plains Next morning, the truck developed some engine problem and began stalling at every steep turn; Wherever it would stall, its pressure break would lock and would block the road. This is why the Army doesnt allow any traffic after sunset. A Tata sumo, finally requested clear passage to overtake; It also granted me a lift to Sarchu. Thereafter, we drove faster but had to stop frequently for a different reason: the occupant of the car, a middle aged man, wanted to photograph every wild flower, every strange angle to the many mountains we were driving by! Laboriously he would clamber up to a ledge to take a close up of a delicate flower or some moss; His assistant will take out his fancy equipment, tripod etc while he and his friend would discuss about foreground and background, lighting etc; Sometime, they would wish if only we could have just a hundred sheep in this foreground!! It was his ninth trip to Laddakh yet his enthusiasm belied it. I understood why finally, as we were about to part; He was Ashok Dilwali, the famous photographer from Delhi, who has photographed Himalayas in almost every mood, every detail.

I got off at Sarchu camp, which has an Army and ITBPiii unit and a few tent hotels. On enquiry, I discovered that locals, including

the Army knew very vaguely about Phirtse la route. Armed with a crude map and general instructions, I walked back to the Sarchu plains, looking for a place to get down to the river

iv. On the opposite (north) bank of the river, there was supposed to be the trail

leading to Phirtse la. Crossing the river is not a problem, since it is quite wide and shallow here. The problem is: how to get down to river since it flows about 200 feet below the valley floor! The gorge it has cut through, has impressive but steep sides.

Across the river, one walks across the vast Lingti plains, which flattens the perspective. I was looking for some clue to the trail in this vastness; Finally I could discern a dilapidated chorten and some mani walls in distance- like couple of small beetles. This is the land mark for the trail which hereafter, follows the Lingti chu river, on its left bank. Last year, snow fall was very sc ant; Infact some passes remained open through out the winter. So this summer all the smaller streams along the way were completely dry. Getting down to Lingti chu for water, if at all possible, would mean a three hour diversion! So carrying water all the time, is of utmost importance.

Three to four hours before the first official camp site, near the two river crossings, far up in this valley, was a smaller campsite occupied by two Gaddi shepherds. They offered me water and instructions for the next day.

Lingti River Crossings Farthest point in this Lingti valley is marked by a river crossing, then a vast dusty plain, as one follows the trail. Again as one scans this immense plain at the foot of the range, the low backed beetle is visible. Yes, that is where the track lies, in case one lost it after the river crossing. From here, after the second river crossing, the trail turns right and climbs into a different valley. These two crossings are separated by about an hour and should be attempted in the forenoon when, due to lesser rate of melting snow, the river current is not very strong. In fact this rule applies to all river crossings in Laddakh.

Since this route is used infrequently, one needs to be on constant look out for cairns, mani walls and other signs of human use like tobacco/bidi wrappers. Mule droppings are a more reliable indicator of the trail than the sheep droppings

v. Wherever trail crosses

a river, rock/landslide or a campsite, one needs to be extra-cautious about reading and following it. Finally, a golden rule which has helped me immensely quite a few times: When one is lost, camp for the night! Next morning you invariably find that wisp of a trail, which was elusive in the faint light of the evening.

Pheya is a rabbit-like burrowing animal found in this region. Probably the only one, other than insects and a few birds. It is very shy and alert and can be seen only at some distance. Higher up, snow leopard is reputed to attack pack animals. By and large trekkers are safe.

The last landmark in this valley, before the trail climbs to Phirtse la, is a small hutment of Zanskari Yak herders; These seasonal settlements are called Dogsha. The climb to Phirtse la is gradual and unrelenting; Finally when one reaches the highest point, it is there, suddenly and incredibly: prayer flags strung across boulders and fluttering eerily in the clear blue sky amid piles of stones, rocks and gravel. One extreme of the pass climbs further up in the sky and ends in crags and cliffs; the other end gently continues as snow covered ranges. Just the area where one is walking is free of snow. Descent on the other side is steep and ends in a small campsite.

Enter the Zanskar The trail on the other side of Phirtse la, continues on the right side of a small river, which actually is a tributary of Kargyak river. The trail finally comes out on top of a gorge, overlooking Kargyak valley. A picturesque spot. Then it descends steeply through a side gorge to Tanze village. The last stretch is difficult as it requires both hands to clamber down the steep cliffs

vi. The fact that my

rucksack was getting caught here and there and the evening breeze was trying to blow me off, was no help. May be, I had made a mistake of wandering off on a short-cut meant for goats!

So, when I approached Tanze in one piece, there was enough reason to celebrate. Seven year old, Tenzing Tolden, returning from Hable to his home in Tanze, was intrigued by this tired lonely trekker, getting down the cliffs late in the evening. I was willing to sell him my story if he could organize a bottle of Chhang (local barley beer) and a campsite in next ten minutes- I was so tired!

His fields were close by. He spoke to his mother who was working in the field; She agreed to my pitching the tent at the edge of her field. While I organized my North Face (Talus) tent to the wonder of Tenzings siblings, he brought me Chhang and some Sattu (roasted ground barley). Sattu can be eaten mixed with Chhang or Butter tea or curd etc.

As I laid out my pressure cooker, camp stove etc. in preparation for some simple cooking Tenzings mother looked on with a face, difficult to decipher for emotions, other than constant wonder or smile! Finally, she came closer and said, You have this small pressure cooker. Sell it to me, I need it I will pay.

Here was the wonderful opportunity of lessening the toil of at least one hill woman! Alas! It is given to few social workers to actually do that! It was a difficult job of refusing her simple wish, but I went ahead and explained, why it was essential for my survival. After a couple of swigs of Chhang, I felt bad and selfish; So, when she looked at the two pairs of shoes and expressed

her need for one, I gave away Action shoes! Has any gift ever been carried for so long and with such care as that pair? Fortunately, my DM boots withstood rest of the journey.

Next morning, I received the reward for that little bit of generosity: Tenzing brought me two fresh potato parathas! It tasted great after four days of self cooking.

Tanze to Peepula Tanze onwards, it is the regular trail followed by many tourists

vii. Walking along Kargyak river, one sees many nationalities (but

few Indians), many people earning their tan and many new trends of outdoor life - like the new water bottle, which you dont have to grab every time you are thirsty; It is a plastic bag which goes into your back pack and a tube from it, anchored to the top of the shoulder strap, keeps the end of the tube dangling just in front of your mouth. When you want a drink, you dont stop, you just grab the tube with your mouth and drink on the move. Insidious dehydration can actually sap your energy in these parts as sun is quite strong.

There is a parallel trail on both sides of the river but the main one is on the left side. Near Purne village, one may cross over to right, over a bridge, only if one wishes to visit Phuktal Gompa or Purne. Purne has a popular campsite, at the confluence of Tsarap and Kargyak river. Often these campsites have a shop or hotel, geared to the taste of an average western tourist: For example almost all these wayside hotels, will have Beer (even HaakeBack) and other liquors but not local Chhang! Chocolates, Biscuits, Magi etc would be available but rarely, the Sattu, curd or the local cheese! Of course profit is an important factor which determines what the shop owner will stock.

In most places you are expected to pay a camping charge (Rs 20 to 40 for one tent); Hotels, which are just a stone shelter, consisting of one or two rooms, offer place to sleep besides fresh food, yet one should rather use ones own sleeping bagviii. Thus a meal and night shelter would cost you well within a hundred rupees. So, it is possible to trek without sleeping bag or cooking gear in some stretches; But you do come across a patch where there is no village or shop for a day or two. Hence it is always advisable to be self sufficient in this region.

Though tourists are exempted from many rules, I discovered that while walking near a Chorten or Mani wall, one is supposed to keep it on ones right. Chortens contain relics of dead. Mani walls are stones piled waist high, near villages. These stones have Buddhist prayers, images or icons engraved on them. The belief is that in the next cycle of creation, these very stones will turn into precious stones (mani) and thus benefit some poor soul. Many chortens near bigger habitations are as big as a truck or even a two storey house.

Peepula is a small campsite right at the edge of Tsarap river, about three hours from Purne village. It has the knack of presenting itself as you start giving up all hope of ever reaching a campsite by evening. The hotel here is a two room shelter, stocking a variety of things, including shoes, liquor, eggs and pin-ups of Bollywood actresses and actors. Fresh fish is difficult to come by in this region. As a tribute to Buddhism, there is a unwritten ban on fishing.

Raru to Padum Peepula to Raru is a trek of 5-6 hours. On the other side of river one sees small habitations, hugging the steep mountain side- just a patch of green in barren brown landscape. Ichhar on the other side has a small Nunnery. Budhist nuns are called Chomo; She dresses just like a Lama and either shaves her head or wears very short hair. This is the reason why Buddhist nuns seem a rarity in public life: They are often mistaken for a Lama!!

Raru has a private school aided and run by some German volunteers. Uniformed children walking back home is an unexpected sight. Education is highly valued in these parts. Teachers are often imported from outside the area. Formal education is possible only during 4-5 months of spring. One sees a lot of voluntary development work initiated and sustained by Europeans, who initially came as tourist and eventually fell in love with the land and the people.

A road from Padum to Darcha is being built and has reached so far only upto Raru. It is an unpaved road meant only for four wheel drives. When it is complete, it would link Darcha to Kargil as Padum-Kargil road already exists. It would save about two days from the current Manali-Leh-Kargil journey.

It is often possible to get a ride in one of the trucks, as I did, from Raru to Padum, thus saving yourself a days trek. Padum, as the ancient capital of the region, occupies a wide valley surrounded by high ranges and some of the famous monasteries like Pipting, Tagrimo, Karsha, Sani etc. Regular flow of western tourist, has generated a colorful low cost board and lodge industry in this area. Hotel Ibex is the upper end hotel at Rs 300 per day for a double room.

Small eateries dot the road from bus stand to government tourist house, a stretch of a kilometer, flanked by green barley fields and a few houses. Thukpa, Momo, Magi are the most easily available dishes. Western menu too is available if one is patient. Further ahead of tourist house is the army area. Army has been providing STD facilities to civilians through direct satellite link. Many tourists have made overseas calls through this facility. I utilized this precious service to get a quote on approximate cost of an external cardiac pacemaker from my friend in Dehradun!

While I stayed in Hotel Ibex, I was requested by the owner, to see Guru ji in one of the neighboring rooms. Guru ji was an elderly Lama, bed-ridden due to stroke and was being nursed by a Chomo and a few other Lamas. He came from Tibet many years ago, and was teaching Dialectics in a monastery near Bellary in Karnataka; Recently, he was requested to come to Zanskar, to teach in a Nunnery.

On examination, I discovered a very irregular pulse. Obviously, more than the stroke in brain, it was his heart, which needed urgent attention. The army doctor had advised pace-maker but the estimated cost of Rs one lakh was causing concern. Though most monasteries own commercial properties, run small trade and generate revenue in many other ways, few could be called rich.

Finally this devoted group was convinced that an external pacemaker might do and will cost much less; In any case, he should be taken to Chandigarh, by the Army chopper for a complete assessment.

The local Tourism Officer, Mr Sonam, was very helpful and open about indigenous customs and beliefs. As per tradition, the eldest son in a Laddakhi family, will marry and take care of family. Younger ones, son or daughter are encouraged to become monastics. In a land where agriculture can not support large population, this seems to be a cultural way of keeping the pressure on land low. Only, Buddhism has given it such a noble and honorable shape, that few people militate against it. Occasionally, monastics recant their vows and decide to get married; This of course is viewed with shock and disapproval.

On the other hand in remote villages monasteries represent the oases of intellectual and cultural life, learning and philosophical ideas. Infact, they often impart whatever education children get in their villages, before going away to cities.

As to rituals dealing with death, I was told that after death, for four days, body is kept in state and prayers are offered by local Lama. Fourth day, it is cremated and ashes interned in a chorten. For children, the ceremony is much simpler.

Polyandry once an accepted way of life, is on the wane now. LBA ( Laddakh Buddhsit Association) has given a call against it. Budhism, as we know, never adopted caste system. But in Laddakh, it is possible to discern three categories beginning from Blacksmiths/ artisans (Garwa) to Ordinary citizen to Nobility (like the late King of Zangla) at top.

Ride in An Ambulance Thanks to Maj Sivanand, I was able to get a lift in an ambulance, from Padum to Zangla on 9

th Aug. A rough track exists on the

right side of the Zanskar river. With the confluence of Tsarap and Stod river at Padum this mighty river comes into existence. Wading through its tributary in Kargyak valley, few miles to the south, will no more be thinkable now, I thought as I looked at it rushing by and full of sediment. The valley here is very broad and distant monasteries like Karsha, one near Zangla and others are the only faint landmarks to orient oneself.

About an hour from Zangla, there is a bridge which lets one cross over to the other side, to Pidmo village. Half a dozen young faces and a master greet you in a lonely primary school. Children are curious but the master is only waiting to return to Zangla, his home village and wants to know if a certain vehicle had come to his village or not.. One feels that if Monasteries could be formally entrusted with the responsibility of education, it would have been most practical solution to this problem of unwilling / com muting teachers, low number of students, school buildings lying empty etc.

Another two hours, and one could camp finally at Honumilix, a small picturesque village sitting lazily at the mouth of a stark gorge.

Hundred meters away is the camp site, along flowing canals and a teashop. A gentle old man, counting his beads and responding in monosyllables appears from nowhere, as I approached. I was allowed to cook in his portico, sheltered from wind. A bottle of milk was also supplied by him for a nominal charge.

Perfi La A walk along Zanskar lulls you in complacence. Next day, Perfi la, finally woke me up, Suddenly I had to climb 3950 metres within a space of few kilometers. Descent on the other side is equally steep and fortunately ends in a tea shop, started by an enterprising villager from Pidmo. A precarious bridge and then again one climbs the side of an impressive gorge and reaches Snertse, a small camping site no village.

Snertse too has a tea shop. As usual, it has lots of beer but no Chhang. A German guru and his chela (disciple) were seen putting away their beer with such alacrity that I decided to have mine ordered fast, before the stock was finished! Since they were f rom Bavaria, I was told, it was quite normal. Guru, in his matted locks and Maroon shorts, looked impressive. His love affair with India had lasted many years. With great equanimity and good humor he talked about his eight month prison term in Bareilly for overstaying his visa!

Despite all the beer drinking, Guru had an agile body. The Chela, a tall heavily built young German, could move fast with gravity, but against it? That was a different matter. Infact, guru had to intensely motivate him at the foot of every pass. Since they were traveling in the opposite direction, both were relieved to learn that next day they will be crossing the last pass and then it would be level walking to Padum. Padum! yes, which has no dearth of beer and hot water!! Guru again motivated Chela, for the next day s assault on Perfi la!

While we were gossiping away over our beer, a Frenchman, as I discovered later, hauled in his mule train, into the campsite, with loud exclamations (in French), something about nine hours and wretched mules.. Well, it was a fine little French family on a holiday.

Some western tourists have tried a radical trick: instead of hiring porters, they buy couple of mules at the beginning of the t rek and then sell it at the end of the trek, a month later. But haggling over the price and driving the animal over the passes proves too much! This was an exceptional family. They had bought two mules at Lamayuru and planned to sell them off either at Padum or Darcha.

Hanuma La Snertse to Hanuma la takes about four hours, and if one thought that on the other side one would descend right in to the promised Lingshet monastery and village.. How mistaken one was!! Nevertheless, the view from Hanuma la is one of the best I have seen so far. Lingshet monastery on the high, under the unbroken chain of highly weathered crags, cliffs; the village below, broken into many levels All that seems, untouched by time and logic; mystical and mysterious. Straight from a Swiss fairy tail . But you have another 3-4 hours walk to actually get there.

Most monasteries in this region are quite old; Lamayuru is the oldest site and the current monastery at Lamayuru was built in 10th

century. While the latter subscribes to older Tibetan Kargyupa sect, Lingshet monastery belongs to Gelukpa sect, with its teachings from Tibet and was probably built around 16

th century. But there is an older site further down the valley, which may have

been in use much earlier. There are some caves too close to the present site. For administrative purposes gompas have been under different sects, from ancient times, but it seems that in day to day working these doctrinal differences dont count much.

While approaching Lingshet, I suddenly felt pain in my left foot. On examination, left Achilles tendon was found swollen and painful. With crepe bandage, I could just use the heel as a crutch. By the time I walked into campsite near Gompa (monastery), it was dark. An Englishman and his muleteer, had already arrived there. His muleteer declared that country ahead had no grass, so he would leave the mule in Lingshet and carry Englishmans pack himself across the Singge la, to Photoksar, the next village.

Two lamas, brought us butter tea and some sattu. I knew I had to rest my feet at least for a day. One of the lamas, gave me a useful hint: If you have had enough of monasteries, passes and villages, take a less known trail from Singge la, through Photang river gorge, and get to the road head at Phanjila in one day. Normally it takes three to four days. It also saves you climbing Sisir la (4850 mt.).

For me time was of essence to get proper treatment for my foot. Also, walking for another three days was unthinkable. An Amchi (indigenous healer) at Lingshet, working under NOMAD, a French NGO, gave me some treatment: Some pills, a powder to swallow and another powder to be boiled in water and applied to the ankle! He also gave me an advice, which sounded very familiar: If no improvement in a day or so, consult another doctor!

Singge la The Lion pass is to be approached with due respect, even though it is only 5050 mt 200 mt less than Phirtse la. It has its own mystique. But before that - you have to cross two smaller passes, after you leave Lingshet: Netuke la (4280 mt) and Khyupa la (4380 mt). Skyumpata village lies below the trail and can be bypassed. Yulchung, a small village with a monastery, too gets bypassed, though looking at it from the height, it appears very attractive.

Finally, one may camp just at the base of Singge la. Here, A Scot Geologist, explained to me the significance of the shape of the ranges to the east of the pass, in sharp contrast to those in the west. These very sharp, rocky ranges represent the Asian pl ate, which clawed through the Indian plate, and emerged from the bowels of earth, ages ago. I discovered that tectonic plate movement, which happened millions of years ago, could be witnessed in present, just by looking at these ranges and passes: but you had to know something of the geology, rock structure etc.

Next morning, while it rained I climbed the pass. My foot was tied in a crepe bandage. From the top, Yulchung was seen like a picture postcard village. Voices of horsemen miles away echoed from the rock face on the east of the pass. On the other side, descent is gentle. Photang river begins on this slope very tentatively. The main trail moves on to the left side and goes on to Photoksar. But I had to follow the river.

Gorge Country Soon after Singge la one comes across a small hut in the wilderness. Security personnel have been posted here and may ask for identification; For Indians, a driving license or a Pan card might serve the purpose. This has started after the murder of three lamas last year by terrorists, near Rungdum.

I walked another one hour and this trail entered a gorge. This impressive gorge lasted for one and a half day, with no let up! Photang river veered from this side to that in the gorge, forcing some difficult river crossings. Old bridges were there at some crossings. Some had to be rebuilt yet, in this season. Trail was washed out in many places and was yet to be repaired in August. Since it is used by chance local travelers in late spring, the priority of early repair is not very high.

Padum

Honumil

Snertse

Lingshet Monastery

Singge la

To Lamayuru

To

Leh

Perfi

Honuma

Netuke

Khyupa

Road

To

Kargil

La, Pass

N

Zanskar R

Photang R

Indus R

Padum-

Lamayuru

trail

Road

Shortcut

thru

Gorges

After about three hours trek, one comes across a small village Macho, perched high up on the left wall of the gorge. Perhaps I was the first visitor from outside in many years. With sign language I was able to procure some kerosene, Sattu and Chhang. Finally around six in the evening, I came across a section where trail was washed out by the strong stream as it hugged the left steep wall of the gorge. One could progress on the right bank, but the river was too strong to be crossed, with no bridge anywhere in sight.

Walking back to Photoksar and Honupata, would mean five days trek! I was low on ration and patience- and alone. Pain in left foot demanded that I get out of this gorge as fast as I could. But how? Only way, was to camp for the night and try the river crossing again in the morning. The night was quiet and a thin slice of starlit sky was visible overhead. The gorge here was about 150 feet wide here. The stream was about 20-30 feet wide. I pitched my tent on the sandy bank. The rock face rose sheer 300 or more feet on both sides. The calls of many birds greeted me in the morning. They had their nest amid the cracks in the rock face. Suddenly the oppressive ambience of the night was transformed into a positive cheerful morning.

Force of the current was manageable in the morning. Re-crossing back to left after half a kilometer detour, I was on the trail again. Wind, snow and water had given strange shapes to the rocks. As I continued, river became stronger and wider. If I again came across a wash out, will I be able to cross the river now? That was my constant worry, yet I felt as if moving ahead was something pre-ordained.

If one is trekking alone in these surroundings, one gets considerable opportunity to think ones own thoughts, unhindered by the society props. The sheer monotony of landscape sometime brings on a very meditative mood. The sheer rise of gorge on both sides takes away all the complacence which city life breeds. Essentials of life which we take for granted and forget while chasing non-essentials, suddenly come to ones mind: life, its purpose, relationships, commitment..

After about two hours walk on the right bank of the river, a tributary was seen entering the gorge from the right. Wading through it was no problem. Another stream joined Photang a few hours later. A broken steel cable lay dangling across it. To cross it, one had to walk upstream along the stream for sometime, till you found a place to get down to it. Another one hour, and one sees the incredible wooden bridge spanning the gorge. Here, the main tourist trail from Honupata, joins this trail, from the left. Hal f an hour later, I emerged in the open valley, near Phanjila, still walking by the side of Photang river.

This shortcut of lamas was obviously not meant for lesser mortals, though it did save me two days and two passes. My DM boots were soggy and full of gravel. My trousers were constantly wet. And I was claustrophobic by now and prayerful! If at all, it should be attempted in late spring, ie late September to October.

Another trail from Markha valley (via Chilling) joins the trail from right, in Phanjila. Panjila, as name suggested, thanks God, is not a la, a pass. It is only a village with some merry shops and a green camp site.

In days of yore, travelers continued to Wanlah, climbed Prinkiti la and ended their journey in Lamayuru. But, today a road connects this village to the main Leh-Kargil highway. A truck gave me the lift to Lamayuru, from where another truck dropped me late that night into Leh. It was 15

th August time to celebrate my personal freedom (from the gorge) in Changspa.

Changspa Changspa in Leh is the Valhalla of the bikers, trekkers, climbers, masseuse, Yoga-freaks, and the average bloke from the west who has resigned his job, just to hang out in Asia, somewhere, anywhere for six months. Yet, that is what gives Changspa, its unique flavor. There are many guest houses and eateries run by local families which offer a room for 100 to 200 Rs per day and a sumptuous meal for 60-80 Rs. Main bazaar, which is 10 minutes walk away has email, STD, currency exchange facility etc. Jet Airways and Indian Airlines, have daily flights to Delhi. IA operates flights to Chandigarh once a week. Flights are often fully booked, hence it is better to get your ticket in advance.

Over land option of getting out of Leh are: Two days bus journey to Manali (or Srinagar). State run buses (Himachal and J&K) are better since they halt at Keylong for the night. Private buses move slow and stop at Sarchu in the wilderness at tent colony. State buses, reach Manali, second day by 12 noon, and thus you can get to Chandigarh by 11 pm same day. Infact a Himachal Roadways bus, leaving Leh at 3.30 am, reaches Delhi by 4am on the second night.

Oh yes, when you are in Leh dont forget to check out music in the local stores: Excellent fusion pieces are available, like the one where a French composer and a Lama collaborate to produce sonorous Buddhist Chants!

Om Mani Padme Hum.. Om Mani Padme Hum.. Om Mani Padme Hum..

Then, you land back in the world, your world with a rude jolt.. Your world where walls converge, thoughts diverge and we lead parallel lives at home and work..

Satyendra September 8, 2001 (satksri@gmail.com)

i A popular Indian brand scooter, 135 cc engine.

ii Double moulded ankle boots used in Indian Army

iii Indo Tibet Border Police

iv Just a few words why I prefer trekking alone: When you hire porter or guide, not all but some- spread all over you, your itinerary, your day to day decision making etc.! Second, if you wish to walk in silence it wont be courteous or possible in their company! Last, since I have enough experience of trekking and navigation in Himalayas, I rarely need them.

v Sheep are taken to higher valleys for grazing. A trek may not necessarily emerge from these valleys to a village ie. many of the sheep trails are blind alleys. But mules are almost always plying on a trail connecting two human habitations.

vi Discussion later with a villager from Tanze indicates that may be I had taken a wrong turn here among the cliffs!

vii But many here stands for something like one trekking group (2-4 persons) in 6-8 hours.

viii In my second (previous) trip, I returned with body lice!!

ix I came across many musical names: Skyumpata, Honumil, Honupata, Prinkiti la..