Travellers Choice Discover Winter 2014

Slogans to stencils

Street art tells the story of Buenos Aires

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FIND THE

CRUISE FOR YOU

WAYS TO EXPLORE DUNEDIN

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Get on theIstrian

wine trail

Winter 2014YOUR TRAVEL MAGAZINE

DISCOVER 3

14 The walls of Buenos Aires talk Walk the streets and track the city’s political and cultural revolution.

19 Big island treats Forget volcanos, tour Hawaii’s food bowl for chocolate and coffee treats.

20 Subtle side of Hong Kong What to see when you get off the tourist track.

22 Mandela lives on Remembering the legacy of a great leader in the Rainbow Nation.

DISCOVERContents

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05 Travel watch Travel updates, what’s happening in the industry and the best deals on offer.

06 Cruise news Special packages and cruise tips.

08 Luxury cruising covers the world Whether waterslides or WW2 history is your thing, there’s a cruise for you.

10 On the trail Following the Croatian wine routes.

12 Dunedin to-do list Get a hit of Scotland in New Zealand’s South Island.

24 The Traveller’s Choice Expert agents talk the talk after walking the walk.

25 Travel smart How to travel solo.

26 Agent listing

Argentinian graffiti

Royal Caribbean are the world innovators in cruising. Take a look at some of our amazing firsts – all included in your cruise fare.

Exact itineraries are subject to change at any time. ABN 541 5026 3086.

First licensed Broadway shows including ‘Chicago’

First ice-skating rink for skating and glittering ice shows First rock-climbing wall at sea

First flying fox ‘Zip Line’ First Interior staterooms with virtual balconies

First FlowRider® surf simulator

First living park at sea – Central Park

First promenade with shops, bars and cafés

First sky-diving simulator at sea Launches October 2014 on Quantum of the Seas

First bumper cars at seaLaunches October 2014 on Quantum of the Seas

First and only DreamWorks® characters at sea

First ‘360° views’ capsule 100 metres above sea level

Launches October 2014 on Quantum of the Seas

Cruiseship: Rhapsody of the Seas

NEWCASTLE

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BRISBANE

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A U S T R A L I A

Tropical Queensland 11 nights Dep 17 Dec 2014, 17 Feb, 6 Apr 2015

Cruiseship: Radiance of the Seas #Ports of call may vary.

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South Pacific Paradise 12 nights Dep 23# Dec 2014, 31# Jan, 31 Mar 2015

Cruiseship: Rhapsody of the Seas

SYDNEY

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Tropical Delights 9 nights Dep 20 Mar 2015

Cruiseship: Voyager of the Seas #Ports of call may vary.

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N E W Z E A L A N DA U S T R A L I A

New Zealand Quest 11 nights Dep 9# Dec 2014, 25 Jan, 22# Feb 2015

Please note amenities vary by ship.

TO BOOk, COnTaCT yOuR LOCaL TRaVeLLeRS ChOICe agenT On 1300 78 78 58

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DISCOVER 54 Travellers Choice 1300 78 78 58

TRAVEL WATCH

HOT DEALSHONG KONG ON SALERECEIVE UP TO 30% OFF!Hong Kong is a popular travel destination, so has it made it to your travel list? Travelcube is offering an abundance of bonus offers, including up to 30%* off hotel accommodation. Book now and get ready for dim sum delights, colourful streets and cultural bliss.

2015 CRUISE EARLYBIRD DEAL$150* CREDIT PER COUPLE!Now is the time to cruise through the picturesque waters of Croatia and beyond. Book one of three popular 2015 Croatian cruises and you will receive $150* credit per couple to spend on accommodation with Eastern Eurotours and Mediterranean Holidays. Offer ends 30 September 2014.

DELICIOUS DRIVES IN FRANCESAVE UP TO 20% ON CAR HIRE!Tantalise two of your senses on a journey around France with DriveAway Holidays. See the sights and savour the local cuisine as you drive and explore the different regions on the food adventure of a lifetime. Plus, save up to 20%* when you book by 30 September 2014.

*Conditions apply.

Now you don’t have to wait for the next issue of Discover to hear about the latest hot travel destinations. Visit our website to subscribe to our regular newsletters or like us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter and read about personal experiences on our informative blog page: http://on.fb.me/tcblogs. You’ll be able to interact with like-minded travellers, learn useful travel tips and have the opportunity to enter exclusive competitions!

Get more, more often!

Choice = spectacular options

Insight Vacations has launched its 2014/15 Autumn, Winter & Spring Europe brochure, which now features the Eastern Mediterranean and Christmas Markets (pictured). The program includes 34 high-value holidays that feature a number of ‘Signature Inclusions’.

Signature Experiences mean guests will return with stories

of interacting with locals and a deeper insight into a destination.

Signature Dining experiences forgo the usual tourist picks for tucked-away restaurants where Insight guests may be the only tourists. This could mean a celebration dinner in a prized Swiss restaurant in Geneva or dining in small groups at a ‘Dine-Around’ evening.

Signature experiences

Tip for tippersMost Australians say they have an aversion to tipping. A recent survey undertaken by MasterCard has found that 46 per cent of us claim that we are, in fact, regular tippers.

They surveyed 7932 people aged between 18 and 64 years old, across 14 countries in Asia and the Pacific. The survey findings revealed the worst tippers to be Japanese – just 4 per cent saying they leave a tip.

At the other end of the scale, 84 per cent of Thais and 78 per cent of Indians said they always left one.

Overall those aged over 45 were generally quicker to tip than those between 18 and 29, with men more regularly opening their wallet than women.

ITALIAN FOR FOODIES Can you recommend a typical dish of the area? Mi può consigliare un piatto tipico della zona? Can you recommend a wine to go with this? (Literally - Do you have a wine that would marry with this dish?) Avete un vino che si sposa con questo piatto?

Whether you need an asprin or an ambulance, it’s about knowing who to call.

With access to 24hr emergency assistance, that’s one of the many reasons why over 1.6 million Australian travellers choose to travel with Cover-More.

Contact your local Travellers Choice agent on 1300 78 78 58 for a quote and find out how you can receive a FREE Global SIM*

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We focus on what matters.

Limits, exclusions and conditions apply. This is general advice only and does not take into account your personal circumstances or needs. Please refer to the Product Disclosure Statement (available from Travellers Choice) before making a decision about this product. The issuer of this insurance is Great Lakes Reinsurance (UK) PLC ARBN 127 740 532, ABN 18 964 580 576, AFSL No. 318 603, trading as Great Lakes Australia. Global SIM: Eligibility criteria and pricing is subject to change. This is a prepaid service. Network coverage is not available in all areas. Services provided by United Lifestyle Group Networks Pty. Ltd. (ABN 35 139 763 830). © June 2014.

Travellers are now looking for more than a white sand beach holiday, but rather destinations with an abundance of choice that open the door to a vast range of holiday options. This edition of Discover is full of destinations that will lead you off the beaten track, open your eyes to hidden gems and captivate all your senses.

Explore the flight options to the colourful city of Buenos Aires, with its array of lively street art and top-shelf activities, along with vibrant Hong Kong which offers something new each time you visit.

Hawaii is more than just a beachside attraction, boasting culinary delights that will tantalise your

tastebuds. For you wine lovers out there, the Istrian wine trail should be added to your bucket list.

Walk in the steps of Mandela in South Africa, find out what is on the horizon for luxury cruising or journey to Dunedin in New Zealand.

With a variety of choice leading to spectacular options, contact your local Travellers Choice agent for expert advice and guidance on your next holiday adventure.

Christian Hunter Chief Executive OfficerTravellers Choice

Discover is published by Travellers Choice three times a year, in March, July and November. Marketing Manager: Robyn Mitchell Tel: (08) 9223 6555 Email: [email protected] Published by Mahlab Media. www.mahlabmedia.com.au © 2014 Mahlab Media. Managing Editor: Jill Park Commissioning Editor: Bev Malzard

DISCOVER TRAVELLERS CHOICE MAGAZINE

FYIFor further information on any of the deals featured, please contact your Travellers Choice agent.

6 Travellers Choice 1300 78 78 58

Master and commanderCaptain Kevin Oprey stands beneath the soaring hull of Cunard’s flagship Queen Mary 2, the largest and most expensive ocean liner ever built, during the ship’s Round World Voyage in its 10th anniversary year. Captain Oprey surveys the scene from the top of QM2’s bulbous bow, an underwater projection that minimises the creation of bow waves around the waterline when the ship is under way. Two safety crafts were standing by during the photo-shoot, but Captain Oprey remained sure-footed throughout.

CRUISE NEWS

BOOTCAMP AT SEA?

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On home turfPrincess Cruises will base a record five ships in Australia next year, with the 2600-guest Golden Princess making its debut down under as the biggest ship ever to homeport in Melbourne.

Golden Princess’ maiden summer deployment is a highlight of the cruise line’s new Golden Anniversary 2015-16 program.

The program also features Princess Cruises’ first summer season from Fremantle, doubling the cruise line’s Western Australian offering, as well as the line’s biggest ever presence in Brisbane, with Queenslanders set to enjoy nine months of sailings in 2015-16.

Far flung trends . . . Check out these trendy destination cruises that are set to be popular in 2014:• Panama Canal – celebrating its 100th

birthday this year;• Watch out for more Japan-centric

cruises. Japan can be expensive and difficult to navigate around, so a cruise is a perfect sampler;

• Cruise choices around Australia and New Zealand are on the rise and an excellent way to see this part of our world.

Cruising is one of the most wonderful holiday experiences. Make your cruise all the better by dealing with an accredited cruise professional. Travellers Choice

Cruising agents are official members of the Cruise Lines International Association Australasia (CLIA). These agents are CLIA Accredited Cruise Specialists, who are not only specialists in recommending different cruises for different people, they love to cruise too.

See our Agent Listing to find your local cruise specialist.

Queen Mary 2 captain Kevin Oprey stands on top of the bow wave minimiser of his famous cruise ship.

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FYI For further information on any of the deals featured, please contact your Travellers Choice agent.

Enchanting

meet gRaciOUS

*ALL PRICES STATED ARE PER PERSON, DOUBLE OCCUPANCY AND INCLUDE TAXES and discounts. CRUISE OR CRUISETOUR ONLY. ^Fares based on this date. Fares listed are in Australian Dollars. All fares are based on Promo(s) RH. For more information about our stateroom categories and suite descriptions, to view deck plans and for full terms and conditions applicable to your cruise, please refer to hollandamerica.com.au or the appropriate Holland America brochure. Offers are capacity controlled and may be modified or withdrawn or sailing/departure dates may be substituted without prior notice. Subject to availability. Other restrictions may apply. Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands.

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CRUISING

Antarctic 5-star exhibition

Ushuaia roundtrip onboard Le Soleal

Highlights Drake Passage • Neko-Paradise Bay • Pleneau Island • Port Charcot • Port Lockroy • Deception Island • Weddell Sea

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If entertainment tops your list of key requirements, the largest ships are more like floating towns with distractions galore.

SE Asia is to be a hot destination in 2015.

Luxury cruising covers the worldWhatever you want from your holiday this year, there’s a cruise for you – discovery, adventure and comfort are on the agenda.WORDS GEMMA PRICE

IF YOU’VE NEVER THOUGHT OF TAKING A CRUISE, perhaps now is the time. New luxuriously appointed vessels are being launched at a rate of knots; new itineraries, and increasingly specialised onboard and onshore experiences, are giving cruisers new ways to see the Old World and hard-to-reach exotic destinations.

Alaska, Southeast Asia, Australia, New Zealand, Russia

and Iceland are all top destinations for 2014 and 2015. Disney is sailing to the Norwegian Fjords, Iceland and the Faroe Islands. Celebrity Cruises has added stops at Dutch Harbour, Vladivostok and Mystery Island in Vanuatu. Silversea is heading to Micronesia, Melanesia and Polynesia; Silver Discoverer – the newest in the Silversea fleet – now goes to the Russian Far East, Southeast Asia and Kimberley region, saving travellers a 24-hour drive along unsealed roads.

Not far-flung enough?Lindblad is marking the 2014/15 and 2015/16 Antarctica seasons with a celebration of the Centennial of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Imperial Trans-Atlantic Expedition with a raft of special treats – guests can toast Shackleton, Hurley and their fellow explorers with the same whisky favoured on the original voyage, a limited release of Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt.

Going on an expedition doesn’t mean slumming it: every cabin on the 100-passenger Silver Galapagos is a suite and almost all have a veranda (along with on-demand entertainment, Wi-Fi and butler service); 95 per cent of the cabins on the brand-new 264-passenger, Arctic-bound Le Soleal have a balcony to enable passengers to get up close to icebergs, polar bears and whales as the aurora borealis blaze overhead.

If entertainment tops your list of key requirements, the largest ships are more like floating towns with distractions galore.

On Celebrity’s big ships, such as the Equinox, the top-deck lawn is real grass. The Disney Fantasy’s AquaDuck – a perspex tube ‘water coaster’ – slips passengers around the deck and out over the ocean.

Royal Caribbean International – which celebrated its 50 millionth guest last summer – will launch the 4180-passenger Quantum of the Seas in November 2014 with the first bumper cars and virtual skydiving at sea; a circus school with a flying trapeze; and a London Eye–inspired North Star dual canopy glass observation pod on a mechanical arm that lifts passengers over the side of the ship, 300 feet above the water.

Your perfect fitWhile ocean-going options get bigger and better every year – the latest luxuriously appointed builds have larger rooms and suites at every price point – river cruisers trading on intimate experiences are getting more numerous, reaching iconic cities like Vienna, Amsterdam and Budapest with all the beautiful scenery along the way in an up-close and unhurried experience.

Ceilings of the rooftop restaurant

and nightclub of Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection’s Antoinette can be lowered to fit under bridges. Other companies are adding drawcards such as sundecks with putting greens.

There’s also been an upturn in the number of specialist themed cruises – whether you’re into golf, wellness or WWI history, there’s an expert-led itinerary for you that will allow you to indulge you passion both on land and onboard the boat.

Unprecedented accessMost operators are happy to tack on city breaks, safari camps stays and even train journeys.

After totting up accommodations, all-inclusive food, wine and spirits and curated excursions, cruising is an absolute bargain when compared with independent travel. Plus, you only have to unpack once.

Contact your Travellers Choice agent

Cruise the Antartic onboard the luxurious Le Soleal and watch the aurora borealis from the comfort of your own balcony.


CROATIA

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On the trailWine tasting in Istria has come a long way, but retains its charm and tantalising taste.WORDS TRISTAN RUTHERFORD

COUNTLESS EMPIRES HAVE WANTED A SLICE OF Croatia’s Istrian peninsula and its fabled Malvasia grapes. Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Austrians fought over its 402 kilometres of coast. Some vineyards were damaged in World War Two, as Yugoslavs battled independence from their Italian overlords. In the proceeding socialist era, Malvasia grapes were dumped into co-operative vats to make table wine. The region’s great and good fled to Australia and America in search of a better life, if not a better drink.

How the tables have turned. This morning, my wife and I viewed the UNESCO-protected Byzantine mosaics in Poreč. The town’s wine-tasting rooms sit inside Viennese mansions on Italianate piazzas. Four well-marked ‘wine routes’ now meander through the countryside passing hundreds, if not thousands, of wineries en-route. I’m now sitting underneath an olive tree at Vina Cocolo, sampling tongue-tingling Malvasia wine at AU$3.50 per litre.

Back in favourScores of tourists are joining Croatia’s resurgent wine trail. Little wonder why. Cocolo’s proprietor hands me two starter samples of Malvasia and Chardonnay. The former is apricot-hued, yet with a tangy salinity that borders on savoury, with legs that drip down the glass. The Chardonnay is light, crisp and ice-cold, with a dizzying fizz that fills the mouth. Two further samples of Merlot and Teran, the latter a relative of Italy’s blood-red Refosco variety, arrive in quick succession.

As the owner and I chat, her niece delivers a platter of homemade goodies to “enhance the wine”. There’s the youngest, softest salami I’ve ever tasted. Pecorino cheese comes from an aunt. The prosciutto is home-cured. This is rare in Croatia, where meats are generally smoked. Here in Istria, the salt-tinged sea wind is enough to air-dry the region’s hocks, hams and piggy delights.

I’m not the only one with crumbs on my notebook. There’s an Austrian family shading under a fig tree. Some Germans are on their second bottle of iced Malvasia. And there’s a couple from Melbourne, who in this case are not some of the many Aussies of Croatian descent who have formed a new-found love affair with this most blessed of countries.

Local fareTable by table we are ushered in the musty, dusty, pork-scented cellar. This routine is copied at all of Istria’s vineyards. We’re welcome to decant fine wines from AU$3 to AU$7 per litre. One local even pops in with a plastic two-litre

Coke bottle and fills up to the brim. There’s no question that this is is the real deal.

My wife points the hire car back onto the ‘wine road’. One could spend a lifetime exploring Istria’s four driving trails (including the white wine route around Rovinj, the Merlot hills around Buje, and the Teran vineyards around Pazin) but we stick to the Malvasia route from Poreč to Visnjan. With medieval towns and undulating vineyards, it looks like Tuscany 50 years ago. Yet these large-leafed vines must survive biting winter winds and sun-kissed summers, so are made of sterner stuff. Malvasia does well in Spain’s Balearic and Canary Islands, and is enjoying a resurgence in Brazil and Australia too.

Follow the signsWe’re on the trail of some of Istria’s award-winning liquid gold. We park up at the imposing Marijan Arman vineyard with high hopes.

The Arman family’s great-great-grandfather planted the first vineyard here in the 1880s, and the current crop of Armans was among the first to adopt modern production and marketing measures in the mid-1990s. It shows. We’re regaled with glasses of vivacious Grand Cru Malvasia and oak-aged, ruby-red Teran Reserve over plates of air-dried

ham. Travel + Leisure magazine rated Istria as a ‘Best Life Changing Trip’, while Fodor’s lauded it as one of Europe’s ‘Top 15 Food & Wine Destinations’. Glass of Malvasia in hand, we can hardly disagree.


LINKS: Official Istria Tourist Office (istra.hr)Association of Istria Winemakers (vinistra.com)Vina Cololo ([email protected])Vina Marijan Arman (vinaarman.com)

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Locals post ‘Vino here’ signs every 500 yards along the wine routes, such as the white wine trail around Rovinj (pictured).


NEW ZEALAND

Dunedin to-do listSpend time exploring this elegant, architecturally-significant city with its staunch Scottish heritage.WORDS BEV MALZARD

DUNEDIN, NEW ZEALAND’S SECOND LARGEST city (and the country’s oldest) in the South Island, is a little overshadowed by the big guns up north.

Almost in a time warp, all the development and economy went to the North Island after WWI and it’s turned out to be not such a bad thing. One of the most arresting aspects of Dunedin is its window to the past.

Edwardian Baroque monuments blend with the gold rush era architecture; Art Deco buildings still stand and Venetian Gothic windows loom close to Corinthian columns and Italian Renaissance facades. The breathtaking craftsmanship has been preserved due to lack of crazy 20th century progress here.

Dunedin’s forefathers laid the city out to replicate Edinburgh (including many of the same street names).

Add the following to your to-do list:• SpendhalfadayinOtago Settlers Museum, an edgy

architecturally-designed masterpiece that houses the area’s past treasures of settlement. Take the guided tour.

• Climbtheworld’ssteepeststreet!Baldwin Street annually hosts the ‘gut-buster’ race up this incline, but you can choose your own pace.

• Theshoppinghereisexcellent,soheadtotheOctagon along George and Princess Streets. Ignore the side streets at your peril as quirky stores and boutiques are dotted throughout. Meridian Shopping Centre on George Street offers 50 distinctive specialty stores. It is also home to a Dunedin hero – Arthur Barnett’s department store, a retail treasure for 100 years.

• ScottishpoetRobbieBurnskeepssentryattheupperendoftheOctagon.Dunedin’srichpoeticsoulextendstotheWriters Walk behind Burns’ statue.

• VisitLarnach Castle – New Zealand’s only castle. Built in 1871 by William Larnach, the building is now a private family home, which has been lovingly restored over the past 40 years by the Barkley family.

• DunedinisclosetoOtago’sextraordinarynaturalbeauty,wildlife in sea and on land, windswept outcrops and grass-edgedtrailstowalkandexplore.

Streetscape or landscape, Dunedin and its beautiful peninsula may not have changed for a century, but its age and beauty is precisely what makes it so special.


Dunedin’s train station (pictured) features a floor laid with more than 750,000 blue and white Royal Doulton porcelain tiles.

Perth to Auckland

To book, contact your local Travellers Choice agent 1300 78 78 58.

Experience the new dimension in onboard comfort and inflight entertainment on our Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner from October 2014

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14 Travellers Choice 1300 78 78 58 DISCOVER 15

ARGENTINA

The walls of Buenos Aires talkCake, steak and tango are beautiful things, but to find the hot-blooded heart of Buenos Aires, you need to hit the pavement.

WORDS KERRY VAN DER JAGT

’m standing on a street near the Chacarita bus depot in Buenos Aires, staring into the demonic eyes of Jack Nicholson. “Look closely,”

says Ana Montenegro, my tour guide from Graffitimundo. “What do you see?” I squint at the mosaic artwork, turning my head side to side, then I see it; Jack’s eyes, like his character in The Shining are following me. Though it’s a warm day I get a chill up my spine. As I’m learning, there’s more to street art in this city than meets the eye.

To uncover more, I’ve joined a half-day tour with Graffitimundo, a non-profit organisation established in 2009 by a group of friends keen to promote urban art and support local artists. Led by Ana Montenegro, a former journalist and passionate proponent of all things arty, we begin

in the bohemian neighbourhood of Palermo Viejo.

At our first stop we see a stencil of a man wearing a hazard suit and gas mask. Ana explains that the figure is El Eternauta from the Argentinean science-fiction comic strip by Héctor Germán Oesterheld. “After Oesterheld was kidnapped and killed during the Dirty War in the mid-70s, El Eternauta became a symbol in the fight against oppression and a reminder of the missing people,” she says.

Unlike other international cities, where street art is often viewed as vandalism, in Buenos Aires, street art is seen as an acceptable form of self-expression. “People in Argentina have been repressed so many times,” she says. “The walls have become our voice.” ►

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Graffitimundo holds tours of Buenos Aires to share the story of the city’s street art.

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The man is not allowed to see his children,’ Ana explains, ‘so he writes love notes to them along the route they take to school.’

DISCOVER 17

Artists took to the streetsGraffiti began in the 1950s in Buenos Aires, when political organisations paid people to write slogans and post candidates’ names on walls. During the Dirty War (1976-1983) self-expression halted, not reappearing until democracy was reinstalled in 1983. The 1990s saw the arrival of the US-inspired hip-hop culture, and with it, graffiti ‘tags’, but it wasn’t until the economic crash of 2001 that the real street art movement took off.

“With more than half the city’s 35 million people living in poverty, artists took to the streets to make up for what we had lost,” Ana explains.

Not all street art is the product of politics and propaganda. In contrast to the disturbing El Eternauta, Ana points out Totoro, a whimsical, bunny-like character from the Japanese children’s animated movie My Neighbor Totoro. “You’ll find this little guy everywhere, particularly near primary schools,” she says. “For no other reason than to share the beauty of the film.”

On a road leading to a primary school we see the phrase ‘Tomas Te Amo Papa’ (Tomas, I love you Papa) and ‘Cata Te Amo Papa’. While it would be easy to dismiss this scrawl as the work of vandals, it is in fact a message from a lonely father to his

children, Tomas and Cata. “The man is not allowed to see his children,” Ana explains, “so he writes love notes to them along the route they take to school.”

Our next stop is a park where an apartment block is painted with a mural of two anthropomorphic figures doing battle. This is the work of Jaz, a pioneering street artist known for creating huge murals that resemble delicate watercolour paintings. Through his use of unusual materials, such as asphaltic paint and petrol, and depiction of half-man, half-beasts, Jaz draws attention to street violence, particularly football hooliganism.

Ana explains while it is illegal to paint murals on public buildings, it is legal if you have consent from the building’s owner. “In nine out of 10 cases the owners will give permission,” she says. “In fact, many business owners commission artists to paint their walls, paying them in paint or meals.”

We stop at a wall painted with repeating stencils of Chairman Mao, a commission from the building’s noodle bar owner. Graffitimundo is currently collaborating with a group of artists to produce a feature-length documentary titled White Walls Say Nothing, which aims to capture the history and heart

of Argentine street art. “It is the story of our city,” says Ana.

The tour ends at Cambodia on Hollywood, a bar that doubles as a street art gallery in the trendy Hollywood Palermo district. Here we find a party atmosphere, as many of the street artists are busy setting up for the evening’s art exhibition. Rather than feeling excluded, we are invited to the rooftop for opening night. I buy Ana a pizza, someone shouts me a beer. As night falls and couples begin to dance, Ana sums it up best, “In Buenos Aires street art is for everyone.”


1. Graffitimundo tour guide Ana explaining that Jaz draws attention to football violence through his half-man, half-beast murals. 2. Street art is an accepted part of the streetscape. 3. Minotaurs fighting by Jaz. 4. The demonic stare of Jack Nicholson is created by tiles.

1 2 4

3

DISCOVER 19

USA

Big Island treatsChocolate, honey, coffee and tasty heirloom vegetables are on the menu here.WORDS SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

HERE AT THE ORIGINAL HAWAIIAN CHOCOLATE Factory on the Big Island of Hawaii near Kona, where voluptuous crimson, orange, green and gold pods are growing out of the trunks of four metre-high trees, I’m being shown how these pods are transformed into the velvety brown confection we all love.

All this activity is taking place in what is possibly the world’s smallest chocolate factory located just metres away from where the cacao is grown.

Slow food movementOne of the oldest cash crops on the Big Island is Kona coffee, brought over from Brazilian cuttings in the early 1800s. There are about 800 small family-run coffee farms dotted along a 50 kilometre stretch of the Mamalahoa Highway. Kona coffee can only be grown on the lush mountain slopes of the active Hualalai and Mauna Kea volcanoes which provide near-perfect conditions: rich volcanic soil on cool mist-shrouded hillsides, a year-round warm climate and plenty of rain.

The village of Holualoa is Kona’s laid-back, artsy centre and I enjoy scrumptious pastries and a local latte at the Holuakoa

Café. It is Saturday and the Holualoa Farmers’ market is in full swing so I sample some of the wonderful raw materials used in the next door Holuakoa Restaurant, a trailblazer for the slow food movement here.

Wine of the tropicsA number of nearby coffee farms, such as the Buddha’s Cup, Greenwell Farms, and Mountain Thunder Coffee Plantation, are open to visitors. I visit the multi-award-winning Buddha’s Cup, where owner Christine Coleman invites me to see just how distinctive the coffee flavours are from each different ‘terroir’.

At UCC Ueshima Coffee Company, I roast my own coffee. I shovel my beans into an individual roaster and listen for the first crack, which starts the caramelisation process; then the second crack where the oils inside the beans develop their flavours. They even take a photograph of me to paste on the outside of the vacuum-sealed bag and I put the coffee in a beautiful Hawaiian-print burlap tote bag.

My final visit is to Big Island Bees. Here, bee whisperer Garnett Puett has fashioned the largest organic honey operation in the United States. I learn about how hives are organised, where the queen resides and how these bees feast on single flower varieties since the white Hawaiian ohia lehua blossom, the red Christmas berry and the Macadamia nut blossom each bloom at different times in different parts of the island.

Puett achieved fame as a sculptor in New York specialising in wax castings that he covered with sugar syrup which he then turned over to his bees to create vast collaborative works. These days he creates a different magic with his intensely flavoured raw, single-flower honeys that are a perfect expression of the Big Island’s spectacular lushness.


The Big Island is not all about fiery lava flows from active volcanoes. It is also a fabulous food bowl, known for coffee and chocolate.

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A China Experience SAVE $910pp 10 DAYS FULLY INCLUSIVENow from $2,880pp. twin share ex Syd, Mel, Bne, Adl* or Per. Departs 18 Jan or 01 Mar 2015.

*Adl passengers may require a stopover in Hong Kong at an additional cost.

Vietnam at a GlanceSAVE $460pp 12 DAYS FULLY INCLUSIVENow from $2,890 pp. twin share ex Syd or Mel. Departs 4, 11, 18 or 25 Mar 2015.

Group tour includes international economy airfares & all charges, meals, accommodation, guides, transport & visas for Australian passports!

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1300 78 78 58

Offer valid for new bookings only made between 1 Jul – 27 Aug 2014, unless sold out prior. Savings included in advertised prices. Prices valid on specified tour departure dates. Prices & availabilitycorrect as at 16 Jun 2014 & may be subject to change. Airline fuel surcharge and tipping included and subject to change. Initial deposit of $300 per person required at time of reservation, plus air

portion of $1,200pp & completed booking form by Wendy Wu Tours by COB 27 Aug 2014. A China Experience: Savings based on 2014-15 China brochure QANTAS Airways price. Tour details and booking conditions as per 2015 Early Bird Specials brochures. Not available in conjunction with any other offer.


CHINA

Subtle side of Hong KongWhat do you want from Hong Kong? Adventure, luxury, authenticity, culture, tradition, ancient or modern history, food, fashion, fads? In the ever-evolving island, you’ll find it all.

WORDS BEV MALZARD

THE GREAT CENTRE OF ASIA, HONG KONG ACCEPTS change effortlessly, evolves and is a world leader in presenting personal activities and attractions for the new visitor or repeat traveller.

As well as the ‘big’ sightseeing events in Hong Kong, there are many little experiences to be had that don’t come with a fanfare – discover for yourself.

1. Start your day off One of the Cultural Kaleidoscope Programs; Mr William Ng and Ms Pandora Wu are two Tai Chi masters and are your teachers for an early morning practice in the Sculpture Court, in front of the Hong Kong Museum of Art, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. (From 8–9am, Monday, Wednesday and Friday.)

2. Head out for a spot of shoppingAfter Tai Chi, catch the double-decker red bus to Stanley Markets. Enjoy a fast ride around the winding roads, then go shopping. There is an array of remarkably good quality products here and I defy you to come away without a beautiful (and inexpensive) cashmere wrap or sweater; a handbag; jewellery or silk jacket.

Time to view Murray House at Stanley overlooking the sea. This establishment is a 160-year-old restored three-storey colonial building that was dismantled in the early 1980s from its original site in Central and transported and put together again here in Stanley.

3. Hungry? The Boathouse is a pretty cute place for lunch – on three levels with a nautical theme, the unpretentious restaurant overlooks the sea at Stanley. It serves European food, is good for a change of culinary pace and the location is fab.

4. Walk off lunch Downtown to Wan Chai, a refurbished area of Hong Kong. Wan Chai was a quiet sandy bay 150 years ago on the northern shoreline of Hong Kong. It was a fishing village with the local temple, Hung Sing Temple, now surrounded and almost swallowed up by residential buildings. Over the years Wan Chai grew to become a prosperous transportation hub.

Almost 160,000 folk live here today and up to 600,000 flock daily to the district to work and shop.Take part in a free morning Tai Chi class then practice in the park.

TRAVEL TIP: Buy a Museum Pass. For just $HK30 it allows you unlimited admission for one week to seven museums. Download the ‘Heritage Walks Hong Kong’ App.

Many of the old buildings are here, nudged on either side by a shiny new construction. Walk through Star Street or the hip and happening shops and cafes.

Search for the Hung Sing Temple and the famous Blue House, almost derelict but there’s a breath of life still hanging on. The Blue House was built in the 1920s and is Lingnan-style (with Chinese and Western architectural features). The distinctive blue colour has no deliberate aesthetic quality – the decorators at the time only had blue paint, so the blue house it became.

5. For a happy hour drink The Pawn is a three-storey building that was a pawn shop in colonial times. The atmosphere here now is clubby, with bars and restaurant to while away the evening. In a semi-historic setting, The Pawn is owned by The Press Club Room Company. The building is one of the few token old buildings left standing in this neighbourhood.

6. Dinner at last Have a stunning Cantonese meal with a selection of classics at Chungs Cuisine. The restaurant is set in a modern skyscraper (Number 10/F Times Square, Causeway Bay).


Cantonese cuisine comes from Guangdong province.

SOUTH AFRICA


Mandela lives onOnce strife-torn and segregated, Nelson Mandela’s life and death has turned this area of the world into the Rainbow Nation.

WORDS RODERICK EIME

NO MATTER WHAT ANYONE tells you, you can only visit Robben Island, you can never experience it.

Ever since the last prisoners were released in 1996, the cells of Robben Island have stood empty. The stark painted walls, rusty bed frames and chipped iron bars sit alone and forlorn; the stiff, salty sea breeze whistling a shrill tune as it passes through. Only those poor souls who lived behind these walls can ever claim to have experienced this God-forsaken place.

The saga of Nelson ‘Madiba’ Mandela shall always hold a special place in the story of Robben Island. The once renegade activist, National President and father of modern South Africa spent 18 of his 27 years in jail on Robben Island, along with numerous other high profile ANC leaders such as Kgalema Motlanthe, who also served as President

of South Africa, Oliver Tambo and current President, Jacob Zuma.

Perfectly located a tantalising distance from Cape Town, the 7km of angry sea acted as the ideal barrier to escape attempts with the only ever escapee doing so in 1660 by stealing a rowboat.

Mythical presenceWith the passing of Mandela at the age of 95 last December, and the almost immediate release of the movie adaptation of his autobiography, Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom, Madiba’s presence on all things South African is at the moment almost supernatural.

The jumping-off point to UNESCO World Heritage-listed Robben Island is right at Cape Town’s glorious V&A Waterfront with ferries running four

times a day. Allow four hours for the tour and return ferry ride.

Cape Town itself is one of the world’s most beautiful cities to visit. The range of activities in and around Cape Town is enormous. Tours, treks and tastings abound from abseiling and shark cage dives for the adrenalin junkies, to urban wine and food tours, to the gorgeous Stellenbosch or Constanzia regions within an easy drive of downtown.

Beyond the cityWhile Cape Town may be the most desirable city in South Africa, it is by no means the only one worth visiting. To continue the ‘Madiba Trail’ cross to Johannesburg for an exploration of the once forbidden (for white folks) township of Soweto, a perfect bookend to the Robben Island adventure.

Here, in an unassuming red ‘matchbox’ brick dwelling at 8115 Vilakazi Street, Orlando West, is the so-called Mandela House. Pock-marked

with bullet holes and scorched from fire bombs, Nelson Mandela lived at this address from 1946 until the time of his arrest in 1962.

Upon his release in 1990, he briefly returned here, stating famously in his autobiography: “For me No. 8115 was the centre point of my world, the place marked with an X in my mental geography.”

The South Africa you visit today is a far cry from the strife-torn, segregated country of Mandela’s adult years. Beyond Cape Town, there is much to explore, including safaris in Kruger National Park to chardonay wine tasting. The bright ‘Rainbow Nation’ which hosts world-class sporting events and welcomes around 10 million international guests annually is the glittering and glamorous gateway to Africa.


Visit Robben Island off Cape Town to view the cell where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years in prison before the end of apartheid in South Africa in 1990.


Not-so-secret agents show and tell the best of their travel experiences.

TANIA ALLENOwner/Manager,Oliver Travel,Adelaide, SA

Your all-time favourite destination?Paris for the people, the architecture and the food. It’s all about walking through St Germain and seeing a jazz band playing on a street corner.

What do you never leave home without? My camera and lots of memory cards.

Your favourite destination in Australia? It would have to be Tasmania with its crisp, fresh air, great food and wine and amazing history.

Your favourite hotel in the world?Shangri-La – Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, Oman.

River cruising or ocean cruising?Anything on water – I love them both for different reasons.

Can you predict the next ‘hot destination’ or ‘hot activity’ in travel?With the Tour de France showcasing this amazing island, I would have to say Corsica. It’s not a place travellers have thought of as a destination and we are seeing an increase of enquiries.

How do you advise clients to manage money while travelling? Take a cash passport card and some foreign cash so you don’t have to find an ATM upon landing.

When did you take your last holiday – and where to? A cruising holiday in Europe.

MICHELLE BARKERManaging Director,Jayes Travel,Newcastle, NSW

Your all-time favourite destination? Africa – especially Kenya.

What do you never leave home without?Noise-cancelling headphones.

How do you stay in touch with family and friends while travelling?I’m a big fan of Skype/Viber and social media sites like Facebook and Instagram.

Your favourite destination overseas?Some of my favourite restaurants in the world are in New York. I could go and just eat my way through the city, but I also love the atmosphere, the shopping, sights, arts and culture – how can you possibly resist New York?

Your favourite travel app? Trip case, so I don’t miss a flight!

Can you predict the next ‘hot destination’ or ‘hot activity’ in travel? Burma is getting more popular each year and I believe Antarctica will once again be a favourite with more transport variety and itinerary options available.

Do you do anything special for your repeat clients? We hold annual events and special welcome home surprises for our repeat clients. Plus they receive free membership to our ‘Club’, which earns them presents of their choice for referring their friends and family.

❰ THE TRAVELLER’S CHOICE ❱SITE SEEINGOnline resources deliver information to travellers to open up your minds; read the world weather; keep up with exchange rates; make savvy choices when using local transport; understand quarantine and customs regulations across all borders. Go armed with the knowledge that you have sourced every bit of data you can to stay safe, legal and informed.

Worldwide airports:www.worldairportguide.comCarbon offset:www.climatefriendly.comPassport details:www.passports.gov.auVisa info:www.dfat.gov.au/visasTravel advice:www.smartraveller.gov.auQuarantine:www.daff.gov.au/aqis/travelCustoms:www.customs.gov.auWorld weather:www.wunderground.comExchange rates:www.xe.com/ucc World time zones:www.timeanddate.comHotel reviews:www.tripadvisor.comTravel doctor:www.traveldoctor.com.auTravel gadgets:www.travelextras.com.auTravel tips:www.lonelyplanet.comAirlines’ backgrounds:www.worldaviation.com.auTag your luggage:www.yellowtag.comWorld events listing:www.whatsonwhen.comWorld trouble spots:www.comebackalive.comEurope ground directions:www.viamichelin.comTranslating phrases:www.travelphrase.comYour carbon emissions:www.carbonfootprint.comFor fun:www.airlinemeals.netFor comfort:www.seatguru.comFor everything: www.google.com; www.yahoo.com

❰ TRAVEL SMART ❱ TRAVELLING SOLO

COMPILED BY TIANA TEMPLEMAN

01 Revel in the freedom to do whatever

you want to, whenever you feel like it.

Travelling solo can create - or recapture -

the true freedom of being on the road.

02 Get an early start and fill your days with

interesting activities. Rather than feeling

lonely, you will be grateful for a few quiet

hours before bed.

03 Seek out one of your favourite things

at each destination. Whether you enjoy

football, fine wine, sailing or chocolate,

there will likely be a local equivalent.

04 Restaurants with communal tables

or those which offer dining at the bar

are especially good for solo travellers.

Ask a local or the concierge at your

hotel for recommendations.

05 Pack light so you can manage your

luggage without assistance. One

suitcase or backpack and a handbag

or carry on is ideal.

06 Break up long trips with an organised tour.

It can relieve the pressure of having to

organise everything yourself and provide

welcome company when you have been

travelling for a while.

07 Consider having your main meal of the

day at lunch time when it’s easier to find

a buzzy cafe or restaurant that will keep

you entertained.

08 Arrive at your destination during the day

whenever possible. It’s easier and safer.

09 Connect with others by signing up for

a walking tour or cooking class. It is a

great way to meet like-minded travellers

and combat the occasional feeling

of loneliness.

10 Offer to take a photo of a family or couple

at a tourist site. You will make their day

and their grateful smiles will make yours.


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Travellers Choice is the leading network of quality, independent travel agents in Australia. For more than 35 years, our travel agents have provided personalised service, unbiased advice and excellent value to Australian travellers. They have a longstanding interest and passion for travel and will give you the peace of mind that only comes from booking with a travel agent. So talk to your local Travellers Choice agent today – they will not only point you in the right direction but will give you direction. It’s all about sharing their world of experience with you.

From 01 July 2014, reforms to travel agents’ regulation including licensing will progressively take effect in all states and territories of Australia. In states and territories where travel agents’ legislation has not been repealed at the time of printing, this magazine and all included content should be considered as promotion by Travellers Choice Ltd T/As Travellers Choice, License No. 9TA 1389.

© Travellers Choice 2013All material copyright Travellers Choice. All rights reserved. No material in this publication may be reproduced without prior permission. Travellers Choice does not expect or invite any person to act or rely on any statement, opinion or advice contained in this publication, and readers must rely on their own enquiries in making any decisions or giving any advice. Neither Travellers Choice nor any employee or agent of Travellers Choice nor any contributor to this publication will be liable for any loss or damage caused or potentially caused by any inaccurate statement, opinion, figures, contact details advice or information contained in this publication.

When you think about a summer getaway with the perfect blend of relaxation, shopping and nightlife, there’s one destination that comes to mind: Hawaii.

THE HAWAIIANI S L A N D S

*CONDITIONS APPLY: Prices are per person twin share in Australian dollars. Prices may fluctuate due to changes in charges, taxes and currency. Valid for sale until 30 Sep 14. Valid for travel Oahu & Maui 24 Sep - 09 Dec 14 and Oahu & Hawaii, The Big Island 25 Aug - 03 Oct 14 & 22 Oct - 10 Dec 14. Subject to availability. Seasonal surcharges apply. Cancellation fees & blackout dates apply. Advertised price includes but is not collected by the Agent: Sheraton Princess Kaiulani - A mandatory daily resort fee of USD26.18per room per day (AUD27.85) payable direct to the hotel. Prices shown in Australian Dollars and are correct as of the 19 Jun 14. Sheraton Kona Resort and Spa on Keauhou Bay -A mandatory daily resort fee of USD31.25 per room per day (AUD33.19) payable direct to the hotel. Prices shown in Australian Dollars and are correct as of the 19 Jun 14. ~Inter-Island airfare is based on Economy Hand Luggage only, Oahu & Maui is a I Class airfare and Oahu & Big Island is a M & H Class airfare with Hawaiian Airlines and is subject to availability. Price is subject to change and not guaranteed until booked and paid in full. #Car Hire is based on Alamo All Inclusive Economy Auto 2 Door Automatic Car with pick up and drop off at Kona Airport. Car Hire is based on Alamo All Inclusive Economy Auto 2 Door Automatic Car with pick up and drop off at Maui Kahului Airport. Minimum age to hire a car is 21 years. Young driver surcharge of USD25 per day, per driver applies for drivers aged 21 to 24 years. Minimum/maximum stay restrictions apply. An additional Credit Card Service Fee will be applied to the dollar amount paid by credit or charge card. Prices and inclusions are correct at time of issue and are subject to change. Offers may be withdrawn at anytime without notice. Prices are correct as of 19 Jun 14, compliant with ACCC regulations. CH2068

1300 78 78 58To book, contact your local Travellers Choice agent

OAHU & HAWAII, THE BIG ISLAND

7 night, 3.5-star experience

What you get:• Four nights at the Aqua Waikiki Wave Hotel • Return transfers in Honolulu• Inter-island airfares~

• Three nights at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa on Keauhou Bay

• Three days car hire on the Big Island#

Why we love it:• Jam pack your Waikiki stay… race to the surf, learn to strum a

ukulele, dance the hula or pay a visit to Honolulu Zoo.• Three days to discover the Big Island by car; admire the

breathtaking Akaka Falls and visit one of the most active volcanoes on earth!

Perfect for:Couples, families or adventure lovers looking to experience the best of Hawaii.

From$989pp*

What you get:• Four nights at the Sheraton Princess Kaiulani• Return transfers in Honolulu• Inter-island airfares~

• Three nights at the Royal Lahaina Resort • Three days car hire on Maui#

Why we love it:• Four days to lap up the sun-soaked Waikiki beach, shop till

you drop at Ala Moana Centre and relax with a traditional Luau dinner.

• With car hire included, explore Maui at your own pace; go on a Hana Highway Adventure, visit the Haleakala Crater at sunrise and snorkel amongst sea turtles.

Perfect for: Couples, families, beach-goers or those wanting to explore at their own pace.

7 night, 3.5-star experienceFrom $1039pp*

OAHU & MAUI

© Hawaii Tourism Authority.

It’s about saying all-inclusive and meaning it.Every Qantas domestic flight includes food, baggage, entertainment and Qantas Points.

qantas.com

To book, contact your local Travellers Choice agent on 1300 78 78 58

IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Baggage allowance, entertainment, drinks and food are included on Qantas and QantasLink operated flights. In-seat entertainment screen and full meal service (shown) on selected flights. For details on baggage allowances, visit qantas.com/baggage. You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn and redeem Qantas Points. A joining fee may apply. Membership and Qantas Points are subject to the terms and conditions of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program available at qantas.com/terms. Qantas Airways Limited ABN 16 009 661 901.

Travellers Choice Discover Winter 2014

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