AT ITS BESTSvalbard

Page 4 "If we agree this objective is fundamental for tourism experiences, the possibilities are the best."

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LIVING IN THE ARCTIC

TOPOF THE WORLD

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PHOTO: LinDa BakkEn

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We want to be the preferred partner for logistics support in the Arctic

LNSS operate from “Pole to Pole – around the world”!LNS Spitsbergen AS is a part of the LNS Group and is based in Spitsbergen. Besides operating in Spitsbergen the company also have had many projects in other Arctic and Antarctic areas.

LNS Spitsbergen offers various services for companies operating in Spitsbergen. The list of services includes road construction, logistics, construction and transportation, drilling, repair shops, and warehouses.

The company owns and operates the tank farms in Longyearbyen which provide gas and fuel, as well as bunkering of domestic and foreign vessels.

Contact information:LNS Spitsbergen ASVei 6059170 Longyearbyen

firmapostlnss@lns.noTelephone +47 79 02 49 50www.lns.no

Logistics support in the Arctic?

We can help you with:Shipping, transport, handling and distribution.

At our main location in Longyearbyen we can also help with:

· Terminal services · Warehousing · Cold storage · Storage for food and vegetables · Outdoor storage of containers or other goods · Container rental · Bunkering · Machine shop · Workshop for contracting equipment · Welding shop · Garage · Gas station · Car rental . Accomodation

For all this you need only one contact:

LNS Polar Partner ASBykaia9170 Longyearbyen polarpartner@lns.noTelephone +47 79 02 49 50Direct phone +47 91 72 01 15

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The world’snorthernmost car dealeris a Toyota dealer

Svalbard Auto

Toyota Hilux – The pickup for the Arctic

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�� Interest in the Arctic has never been greater. At the same time, it has never been easier to come here because there are more f lights. An increasing number of people are traveling to Svalbard to see and experience the breathtaking vistas, wildlife and atmosphere. The tourism industry had its best year ever in 2014 and, by the time this is printed, the 2015 winter season will be set in history as another all-time high.

All signs indicate this growth will continue in coming years. The tourism industry will develop the area around Longyearbyen and Isfjorden as tourist destinations for tourism in the High Arctic in response to a ban on heavy oil taking full effect in January of 2015. Isfjorden is now the only area open for cruise ships using heavy oil. Meanwhile, there are an increasing number of travelers coming to Svalbard by air, according to figures from Avinor, and during the next few years there will be even more emphasis on nature-based tourism.

The question we must ask is whether such a focus on tourism is compatible with the goal of sustainability, and the protection of nature and environment. The tourism industry leaves its imprint on the environment where it exists, but the question is also about how to facilitate tourism. We all – whether we come here to visit or live here – have a common desire: to take care of Svalbard.

Another aspect we must not underestimate is the educational part of tourism in the High Arctic. Svalbard is important for the world because much of the most significant climate research is happening here. This is where we notice climate change; that glaciers are re-treating, sea ice is shrinking, temperatures are increasing and that Arctic species must find new ways to survive. It's hard to imagine the impacts of climate change before they are tangible, and visiting Svalbard can be a not-so-small contri-bution to giving people greater insight, encoura-ging them to take a stand and perhaps confront their own consumption. Guests of Svalbard are valuable storytellers.

If we agree this objective is fundamental for tourism experiences, the possibilities are the best. Have a nice stay.

View from the north

TOP OF THE WORLD is a ma-gazine from Svalbardposten, the world's northernmost newspa-per. The magazine is produced according to the Ethical Code of Practice for the Norwegian Press, and the Rights and Duties of the Editor. Top of the World is free –

for you as a visitor to Svalbard or inquirer about the Arctic.

The staff: Geir Barstein, Chris-topher Engås, Line Nagell Yl-visåker, Christian Nicolai Bjørke, Patrick Reader (guest writer), Per Johnsson (guest writer),

Svein Berg, Wenche Sørensen and Mark Sabbatini (language consultant).

Editor: Eirik Palm

Printer: Lundblad Media AS.– LIVING IN THE ARCTIC –

Moving a cabin in three minutes Page 40 – 41 Hungry or thirsty? Page 42

Table of contents

Polar bear stories Page 8 – 10

The journey of lifePage 14 – 15

The modern-day Noah's Ark Page 12 – 13

Amazing SvalbardPage 16 – 18

Aiming for the topPage 5

Christmas in a trappers cabin Page 20 – 23 New species taking the air route Page 24 – 25 The color is blue Page 28 – 30 In contact with quasars Page 31

The giants are backPage 32 – 33

A perfect eclipsePage 38 – 39

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OktoberfestThe world's northernmost beer festival, with beers from around the world, lectures, entertain-ment and good cheer. Especially during the evening when the festival tent is filled with oom-pah music, singing and raised tankards.When: Last weekend of Sep-tember

Dark Season BluesThe dark nights are increasingly long and the landscape is cloaked in a distinctive blue color. During this long weekend Longyearbyen is filled with music. Blues musi-cians from around the world have found their way to the festival, considered the biggest music

event of the year. The concert scene is spread throughout the city, with the finale – a marathon concert on two stages featuring most of the artists – on Saturday. A jam session is also a regular part of the festival's program.When: Oct. 22-25

KunstpauseArts and literature festival with exhibitions, concerts and lectures.When: November

Christmas festivitiesFew places get into such a festive Christmas spirit as Svalbard. December is characterized by various Christmas activities and up in Mine 2B (his 'real' workshop) Santa Claus is making his final preparations.

Svalbard seminarsSvalbard's researchers possess considerable knowledge about Svalbard. Weekly presentations focus on various themes from popular science to history – all Svalbard-related. Several of the presentations will be in English.When: January 2016

PolarjazzThe jazz festival has established itself as a major musical event in the High North with an annual lineup of international musicians on stage. Jazz is the starting point, but many concerts encom-pass other genres. The festival starts with the 'vorspiel,' where musicians from Longyearbyen's rich music scene perform. The following days are the profes-sional concerts.When: Feb. 4-7, 2016

SolfestukaThe polar night ends in February, but the first sunbeams hit Long-yearbyen on March 8. This is celebrated with a week of events such as exhibitions, concerts, and

various activities for children and adults. It concludes on the 'sun day' with a gathering of 'all' around the old hospital steps, where the first sunbeam hits.When: Oct. 1. - 8.

Svalbard SkimaratonThis year's most beautiful adven-ture? The Svalbard Skimaraton is becoming increasingly popular, with more than 900 participants in 2015. The mood is euphoric and among the participants are champion cross-country skiers. The event ends with a banquet at Svalbardhallen.When: April 30, 2016

Children's Ski FestivalSki races for children, with help and inspiration from Norway's elite cross-country racers.When: May 1, 2016

Spitsbergen MarathonParticipation is growing in the world's northernmost marathon. The course starts in the center of Longyearbyen before procee-ding out into Adventdalen and Adventfjorden.When: June 2016

What's happening?The days pass quickly in Svalbard. The same applies to the year, which is full of activities. Here are some

for the upcoming year:

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First there were fishermen, hunters, scientists and mining pioneers who

saw opportunities in the Arctic. They traveled north to this stunningly

beautiful land and established their activities. Activities that formed

the basis for this exciting community and the fantastic platform

Longyearbyen is today.

The active family community Here we find an international airport, international port, fiber-optic

and broadband services, power plant, hospital, fire department, rescue

services, research, education, good hotel capacity, public administration,

logistical services, mining, building and construction, satellite station,

tourism, school, kindergartens, restaurants, and culture and leisure.

Longyearbyen has also a number of volunteer groups and organizations.

They organize events and festivals such as Dark Season Blues, Polarjazz,

Spitsbergen Up and Down, Spitsbergen Marathon, and – not least – Sval-

bard Ski Marathon!

In other words, here you'll find just about everything. And EVERYTHING

is world-class, on top of the world and within walking distance.

As if that was not enough, Longyearbyen is strongly characterized by

a particularly pleasant, competent and international population that's

highly engaged.

Business, research and higher educationLongyearbyen has a vibrant, exciting and diverse economy. Our unique

position in the world gives us challenges, but also great opportunities.

This has resulted in a business community in Longyearbyen that has a

special competence in the Arctic. Road construction on glaciers, building

foundations on permafrost, Arctic research and retrieval of data from

polar-orbiting satellites are some of the examples our expertise and

location has resulted in. The business community today is based on the

key pillars of coal, tourism, research, education, space-related activities

and Arctic logistics.

These will also be the key pillars going forward, as the city's Strategic

Business Plan for the next 20 years shows. In addition, plans for further

port development in Longyearbyen were completed in 2014. The efforts

are also powerful in ensuring a robust and sustainable tourism industry

with a fascinating history here in the north.

The government has also indicated there will be a doubling of students

engaged in university studies in Longyearbyen during the next few years.

We educate Arctic guides through a one-year college course of study and

are now starting a preparatory course for engineering students.

Longyearbyen's municipal governmentThe elected local council is the highest body of Longyearbyen's municipal

government, which is responsible for the operation of all infrastructure

in Longyearbyen not assigned to the state or others. Longyearbyen's

government is also responsible for the school, kindergartens, library,

sports hall, Galleri Svalbard and cultural center, and we have a good deal

to offer younger people through a youth club and culture school.

It is in this perspective that we argue Longyearbyen is the high-Arctic capital and this city is in position to become a developing center in the increased activity we see in the north.

Welcome to Longyearbyen! The world’s northern most family community!

www.lokalstyre.no

Christin Kristoffersen, leader of Longyearbyen community Council

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Eirik Palm

The sky is blue and the sun is shining over the white peaks of Nordenskiöld as Ole Jørgen Slettahaug stands at the top of Trollsteinen. Only an hour earlier he set off as part of the tour class in this year's summit race from Nybyen to the famous landmark, 849 meters above sea level. And what a view!

Up here the participants take the skins off from the undersides of their skis and set off down the long, steep hill from the top, leading them to Larsbreen. The journey continues at full speed over the glacier and further down the valley between the mountains Sarkofagen and Gruvefjellet, where they ultimately follow a narrow river course. Finally, they hurl over a slight incline before

they cross the finish line.

Ideal timing"I came up that it was the 'up and down,' so then it was just getting myself some rented skis and I got that done," said Slettahaug, who was both the first down in the tour class and was awarded the prize for finishing closet the the 'ideal time,' which this year was set at 1:16:16.

"The weather was nice and it was easy to go," he said.

There are two classes of com-petition for the race, which until 2014 was held in the dark period early in the year: competition and tour. Because the earlier races have been held during the polar night, participants have gone - and found their way back downhill - with headlamps as their sole light source.

Bad weather and practical reasons resulted in this year's race being rescheduled. As a result there were fewer participants, but there is nonetheless a temptation to repeat the 'daylight' race.

Mountaineering weekend"We are now considering moving the race and most likely will go in the sunshine next year," said Stein Tore Pedersen, the race's organizer. He said he hopes to incorporate it as part of a moun-taintop weekend in Svalbard.

"We are hoping for signifi-cantly more participants to come," he said.

Five students from The Uni-versity Centre in Svalbard were out in the field as safety monitors and polar bear guards along the routes. In addition, seven were bustling inside a lavvu tent

marking the start and finish location. Together they ensured the participants had an enjoyable and safe experience.

The fastest female competitor in 2014 was Lis Allaart with a time of 1:09:00, while Ero Moilanen of Finland finished with the fastest overall time of 1:00:20.

"We don't have any mountains in Finland, so I have to come to Norway to ski. The first part was a bit difficult, but when I got up on the glacier it was easy going," said Moilanen, who went on to study in the Arctic Nature Guide program at UNIS.

Down in the staging area a warm lavvu tent awaits partici-pants with drinks and something to eat. And in the evening there is an informal awards ceremony and coziness.

Higher groundImagine enjoying such a view.

It was the reward for participants in this year's annual Spitsbergen Up and Down race.

SVALBARD AT ITS BEST: Ole Jørgen Slettahaug on his way up Trollsteinen during the first half of the Spitsbergen Up and Down.

PHOTO: LINDA BAKKEN

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Line Nagell Ylvisåker

There have been many sightings of polar bears over the years. In some cases it has gone badly, but the vast majority end well thanks to common sense, knowledge and good judgment.

20 meters awayStudents from the Arctic Nature Guide program at The Univer-sity Centre in Svalbard recall an example of the latter during the fall of 2014. The students were camping at Nordenskiöldbreen

during an expedition and Pete Lambert was on polar bear guard duty.

It was a quiet night in the camp almost two hours past midnight. In the 20 tents, the students and leaders were sleeping. Pete Lambert, 28, a student from England, had only five minutes of duty remaining. Then suddenly he noticed a bear between 20 and 30 meters away, right next to the food container.

"I acted on instinct," he said. "I knew that one teacher was nearby, fully dressed, so I told

him. Had the instructor's tent not been so close, I probably would have done something myself. The bear then was calm and focused on the food."Lambert said the bear must have come through a little valley.

"The guard rounds included an area where one looked down into the valley, but I was not there yet." he said. «That's why I did not see it before." Rummaging in foodThe 27-person procession was at Nordenskiöldbreen for a one-

week glacier course. They heard there were bears in the area, but they had been easy to intimidate.

After one excursion the group confirmed a bear crossed the tripwire f lares surrounding the food and rummaged through it. The bear had left the camp and from a height they discovered it was between 600 and 700 meters away.

After the polar bear's visit, the instructors made certain there was always a group of guards at the camp while others were out on excursions.

An extraordinary guestSometimes it happens that a polar bear is coming to visit.

Rule number one is the bear should not be disturbed. It can be dangerous for both man and animal.

Polar bear stories

ALERT: Instructors from Arctic Nature Guide are on alert if the situation should get out of control. Meanwhile, the camp is being evacuated. PHOTO: MARTE AGNEBERG DAHL

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Polar bears have a good sense of location. The same bear was f lown away from Pyramiden at least three times during the 1990s.

On Sept. 14, 1990, a polar bear that would become the subject of much discussion made its first appearance in Longyearbyen. It was chased from town, but appeared again and was sedated, and marked with ear tags and lip tattoos. The young male bear was then f lown under a suspended load by helicopter to Daudmann-søyra at the mouth of Isfjorden.

Three years later, the per-sistent bear made several visits to Pyramiden. When the Governor came to Pyramiden on Sept. 18, the bear went into the sea and swam across Billefjorden.

That very same night the bear was back in Pyramiden roaming around the streets. The Russians took control and chased it away, partially with the help of a bulldozer. When the Governor returned to Pyramid the bear was sedated. The number on the ear tag revealed it was the same bear marked in Longyearbyen three years earlier.

This time the bear was f lown to Sassendalen, a distance of about 40 kilometers as the crow flies, but a few days later the bear was again sighted in Py-ramiden. When the Governor came to the Russian mining town the day after, the bear was away.

On Oct. 1, it was again re-ported a polar bear was in the streets of the Pyramid during the night. It was again sedated and it again turned out to be the same bear. Now it was f lown to an area south of Isfjord Radio – more than 60 kilometers as the crow flies, and considerably further by land and a harder swim than Sassendalen – and green paint was sprayed on its sides and buttocks so that would be easy to recognize.

On Oct. 15 and 16, a bear was observed again in Pyramiden. And guess what: with a green-painted rump.

Because it was the first time the program was out in tents, the leaders also made certain one of them would be located in a temporary hut readily available in their clothes at night.

"Students were told that they could only enter if they were watching something," said Sigmund Andersen, one of the instructors. "We did that to provide more security."

Shots on shotsOla Einang was laying on a cot in the hut when Lambert shouted, pointing to the bear at the food container. The bear did not react to a signal pistol shot and the other instructors were notified immediately. Jens Abild concentrated on his rif le in case the situation got out of control.

Beforehand, students had been told if such a situation arose they should remain in tents unless they were told to get out.In one of the tents was Mar-gretha Flatland.

"We heard shots on shots on shots on shots and lots of yel-

ling," the 25-year-old student said. "It was a little unpleasant, we realized that there was a real situation and that the polar bear was close. We opened the outer tent a little bit and saw the bear, which was between 20 and 30 meters from us."

EvacuationWhen teachers saw that warning shots, yelling and hammering on cooking equipment did not scare away the bear, they chose to call all the students out.

"We were trying to scare the bear with a larger group and knocking on the cases," Abild said. "When we saw that neither had an effect, we pulled the students away."

They then tried intimidating the bear with flares from a boat and smoke cartridges, but the bear did not care. At that point the campsite was evacuated the campsite and the bear was in peace.

"We constantly had two teachers with weapons clearly between the group and the bear,"

Abild said. "To the students, we were clear that we would not put ourselves in a situation where it was necessary to shoot the bear."

"We educate guides who will bring people out in Svalbard's nature," Andersen said. "We have to face that the polar bear danger is real. It is important for us to establish procedures that will allow us to avoid putting human and bear lives in danger."

Coming backThe bear didn't let itself be in-timidated when the group came back to the camp later during the night, at which point it was deci-ded to summon The Governor of Svalbard for a helicopter to chase the bear away so the tents and camp could be packed up.

"It was nice to see how the governor worked," Abild said. "They stood with the helicopter about 300 to 400 meters from the camp over the time and the bear didn't like it. It slunk away and the governor followed it calmly with the helicopter."

The governor's pilot put the helicopter between the bear and the camp, and in less than an hour the group's 20 tents, huts and all the equipment wereremoved. Lambert and Flatland said they regard the polar bear encounter as a useful experience.

"I feel safer about bears and what I should do," Flatland said. "We have been told what to do many times, but now we have experienced a real situation."

"This bear was not easy to intimidate either," Lambert said. "We saw the 'worst-case scenario.' I'm glad it went well with everyone in the group and with the bear.

SHOPPING BAG: The polar bear found something interesting inside the tent. PHOTO: ELIDA LANGSTEIN

SAFE: Pete Lambert and Margretha Flatland discuss the guest that suddenly appeared in their camp. FOTO: LINE NAGELL YLVISÅKER

The flying polar bear

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Christopher Engås, Geir Barstein

Many people got a rare opp-ortunity to see a polar bear when it appeared in late in the summer of 2014. The bear was clearly curious about its surroundings and accepted the human pre-sence with the greatest serenity.

The Governor of Svalbard followed the bear from the start and decided a reminder of the Svalbard Environmental Protection Act, Section 30, fourth paragraph was needed at its website:

"It is prohibited to lure, pursue or otherwise actively seek out a bear so as to disturb or cause danger to people or the polar bear."

Frede Lamo, a hobby photo-grapher and former police officer for the governor, was one of many who took the opportunity to get some snapshots of the polar bear. He took about 650 pictures of the bear while it was at Hiorthhamn and Revneset.

Lamo said he believes people were considerate and did not disturb the wild animal.

"I spent one-and-a-half hours

out there and all of the boats that were there when I was kept what I would call a safe distance from the bear," he said.

When is the boundary line of disrupting a polar bear crossed?

"There is no specific dis-tance, but if the bear changes its behavior as a result of human presence, the limit is violated," Lamo said. "But that is a difficult line to draw. That the bear looks up and sees the onlookers is not changing its behavior, but if it, for example, leaves prey it is

eating as a result of our presence a boundary has been broken."

"The female polar bear that came to Longyearbyen's neigh-boring area behaved itself like most polar bears when they get spectators," Lamo added. "It trotted a path along the shoreline and kept on with it, totally unaf-fected by the human presence."

In October 2014 the tracks of a polar bear was spotted just a few meter away from the houses in Longyearbyen. This one was sedated and moved to

Nordaustlandet.In April of 2015, a female bear

with three cubs was observed for many weeks in Sasselfjorden and Tempelfjorden. Three cubs is rather unusual.

A fascinating animal, for sure.

A female polar bear spent a few days wandering the shoreline in Adventfjorden, apparently uninterested in the audience gathering in boats out on the water.

BIG FAMILY: This female polar bear with her three cubs settled on the ice in Sassenfjorden and Tempelfjorden. FOTO: MARCEL SCHÜTZ

A fascinating animal

Polar bear facts

PLAYING: A polar bear examines a buoy during her visit in Adventfjorden. PHOTO: FREDE LAMO

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EKSTREM TURGLEDEbergans.com

HIGH QUALITY OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT SINCE 1908

Christopher Engås

Standing on a small side road, at the foot of the Platåfjellet

mountain on the way to the closed Mine 3, its exterior is very inconspicuous. But the content is of huge significance. It is meant

to save the world in times of deep crisis. By protecting the genetic diversity in food plants against disease, climate change

It is built 70 meters above sea level and its content has a permanent temperature of -18 degrees Celcius. The Svalbard Global Seed Vault is meant to save us in future crises.

The Modern Day Noah's Ark

and other disasters.

Since the Svalbard Global Seed Vault opened on Feb. 26, 2008, it has become one of the big-gest tourist attractions in the archipelago. Not that the vault in itself is much of an attraction for tourists: there are no regular tours into the vault and the exterior is really just a concrete slab with steel doors featuring elaborate art work above them.

It is the significance of the vault in a much bigger perspec-tive that attracts tourists. To be able to say that one has stood outside the vault, that one has been there, has become a virtue in itself. To supplement this, tourists can get a more thorough impression of this signifficant piece of architecture through the informative replica on display at Svalbard Museum.

World scientists involved in the effort to protect genetic diversity began looking towards Svalbard more than 25 years ago. At that time, plans came to a halt due to lack of funding, and lack of international frameworks and rules for the exchange of seeds

VISITORS: Board members of the United Nations Foundation enter the seed vault. PHOTO: STUART RAMSON

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between countries. After the International Treaty on Plan Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture was adopted by the Food And Agriculture Organi-zation and the United Nations (FAO), many began to look once again towards Svalbard. In the spring of 2004, Norway received a request from the Consultative Group for International Agricul-tural Research (CGIAR) to once again consider the possibility of establishing a safety stock of seeds in Svalbard.

From this point, things hap-pened quickly. Norway presen-ted a study about the suitability of Svalbard for such a project to a meeting of the Commission for Genetic Resources of the FAO in Rome in October the same year. The commission recommended the initiative and Norway received broad interna-tional encouragement to proceed with the plans.

In May 2006, the Norwegian government decided the Sval-bard Global Seed Vault should be built and the planning process started in the fall of the same

year. In planning the vault, it was important to avoid building it in, or too close to, coal-bearing layers of the mountain since this would expose it to the possibility of contact with methane gas. It was also important to place the vault high enough in the terrain to allow for all thinkable consequences of future climate change.

The completed facility con-sists of the concrete portal building that provides access through the mountain, f irst through a tunnel of corrugated

steel and then a blasted tunnel in the inner part. The innermost part, the freezer vault itself, is divided into three equal-sized caverns of 9.5 by 27 meters, with the middle cavern being used for the first deposits.

The entire facility is con-structed in a part of the perma-frost not affected by temperature variations.

So what does the Svalbard Global Seed Vault contain seven years after its opening? With more than half a million

types of seeds, it is already the largest seed collection on the planet. Author Pål Hermansen describes the impression of the interior well in his book "Seeds to the World" ("Frø til Verden"), published in 2013:

"This is a journey from country to country, through geography and history. Here are myriads of boxes of rice varieties from IRRI (International Rice Research Institute) in the Phi-lippines, stacks of boxes from the American and Canadian agricultural authorities, and plastic containers from Taiwan, followed by some of the world's most important corn treasures from Mexico and Brazil. On the shelf on the opposite side there are red wooden boxes from North Korea and a signifficant number of cardboard boxes from the research institute in Aleppo in Syria. Considering the rest-less situation in some of these parts of the world, it is a relief that the genetic treasures from the cradle of our civilization are safely stored in the shelves here 150 meters under the ground in Svalbard."

POTATOES: Seeds from more than 1,500 types of potatoes are among the stores inside the Global Seed Vault. PHOTO: ASCOCIATION ANDES

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Geir Barstein

"This is incredible," says Bianca Conway. "You can safely say it is quite different from Australia."

Together with her girlfriend, Ashley David Cook of New Zea-land, they are a world away from home, literally and figuratively."It is so beautiful here," she says, gazing across the tundra, before the barking of dogs subsides and the dogsled again accelerates inward in Bolterdalen and pas-sing Rieperbreen.

The sun is shining, the sky is blue and the hillsides are still covered with white snow as far as the eye can see. Ger-man native Anna Reiss, a dog

handler at Green Dog Svalbard who dreams of becoming a veterinarian, explains what her companions are seeing and experiencing along the way to Scott Turnerbreen – named after an American geologist from Longyearbyen's infancy a century ago.

"These moraines originated from ancient glaciers," she says in a f lawless Canadian accent. "They appear solid from the outside, but are made of small stones frozen together."

Big tripAdventure tourism in Svalbard is in demand like never before. There were nearly 119,000 guest nights in 2014, an increase of

12,000 from the previous year. About 50,000 visitors came to Longyearbyen in total.

The growth appears likely to continue. Ronny Brunvoll, director of Visit Svalbard, said the industry had a strong winter season this year.

"It has been very, very good, I have received confirmation from tour operators," Brunvoll said."There are many visitors to the island and many who are going out on trips, both with dogs, snowmobiles and others."

The dogsledding tour was specifically the main goal for Bianca and her partner. She was sold after Googling "Svalbard" and seeing pictures of the ar-chipelago.

"We had really no idea about where we were going, but it's so fantastic. For us it's a highlight in our lives. This is our big trip," she says, hugging a sled dog named Stress.

"For having that kind of name she is very calm."

Best seasonA telephone survey of some local tour operators suggests this will be a record season.

"We at Basecamp had our best season ever," said Steinar Rorge-moen, administrative director at Basecamp Spitsbergen.

"We have had an increase in all areas, both in the number of guests, tours and sales. This has also been a very good season

Enjoying life in SvalbardBianca and Ashley traveled around the world

to fulfill their dream of being in the Arctic. More and more tourists are visiting the archipelago.

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for the boat in the ice, thanks to good conditions, while Isfjord Radio set records in March and April. Spitsbergen Travel also experienced increases in over-night accommodation, dining and tours," said sales director Eskil Solberg.

"There are an increasing number who are finding their way to us and they have adven-turous days on the island," he said. "The increase is between 10 and 30 percent."

While the golden times are in the months from February to May, the industry continues to face challenges from November until the sun returns.

"We are seeing that it is necessary to think creatively about what we are delivering in

ENJOYING LIFE: A moment of pure joy. The sun is shining, the sky is blue and there is good company.

HAPPY: Going to Svalbard is the "big trip" in life for Bianca and Ashley. PHOTOS: GEIR BARSTEIN

SILENCE: Not a sound inside the ice cave at Von Postbreen.

this period," he said. "Although there has also been an increase then, the numbers are still too small. Both we and other tourism businesses must develop new experiences and become better at marketing that time of year."

QuietUpon reaching the beautiful glacier, it's time for lunch for the tourists as well as dogs. Ashley and Bianca give their lead dogs Leif and Colonel an extra cuddle before the entourage disappears into their own little dark spot inside the glacier.

"The ice cave is carved out by meltwater," said Reiss, the guide and dog handler. "During the summer torrents f low in here."Everyone turns off their head-lamps and holds their breath to listen to the silence. It is entirely dark and there is not a sound.

And it is good that it is so quiet. Because if there is so-mething visitors don't want to

hear down here, it's the sound of running water. Having crept, crawled and pulled themselves up through the narrow entrance, it takes a long time before their eyes get used to the fierce light of the sun ref lected and intensified between mountains. They stum-ble around blindly, speechless over what they have experienced.

"Wow! We have been in another world for 20 minutes," says Elisabeth Lund, a visitor from Sweden.

"This will be something to talk about when I get home. I've been inside 1,000-year-old ice," she says before the three dog teams saddle up and descend from the glacier in a f lash of fur, barks and natural joy.

SnowmobilesThe dogsled and snowmobile tours are the major "engines" for the tourism industry, Brun-voll said. According to The Governor of Svalbard, there

were 7,000 days of snowmobile rentals by individuals in 2014. There is no reason to believe the figure will be lower this year.

Despite the good tourism season, Berit Våtvik at Svalbard Vil lmarkssenter said she's concerned about the growth.

"We are quite small, but we have guests needing to take dogsled tours to get around," she said. "We focus on values such as silence, but we need to go further and further away to get away from snowmobile noise."

"We are not satisfied with the development of the motor industry," she added.

Meanwhi le, in the last stretch of Bolterdalen, the dogsledding teams take a break on the way back to civilization and everyday life. Bianca takes a last look at the mountains.

"It's so quiet," she says. "I want to move here."

TOP OF THE WORLD16

Patrick Reader

The archipelago offers what I call "freedom, meditation and calmness" thanks to a variety

of breathtaking landscapes and stunning protected fauna. Tou-rists from around the world willcertainly be conquered by its pristine beauty and will under-

stand clearly how essential it is for The Governor of Svalbard to manage the preservation of its spectacular wildlife, natural sites and cultural remains

In the north west, biblical fjord Magdalena in Albert I Land is described in books as the most scenic landmark in Svalbard. Large cruise ships

Feel inspired by enchanting Svalbard

Svalbard is for sure one of my favorite remote Arctic spots. Magnificence is here at its utmost best!

SHORT NAP: The king of the Arctic is taking a rest after a good meal. PHOTO: PATRICK READER

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from Longyearbyen and the mainland are often spotted. I visited this area in 2005 aboard the emblematic sailing schooner Noorderlicht originally built in 1910 in Flensburg, Germany. I was amazed by the beauty of thisfjord, in particular the Gravneset peninsula, surrounded by superb peaky alpine mountains and glaciers. At that time, I promised myself to return there one day and see whether things havechanged or not.

Yes, I am back here after nine years at exactly the same period of the year (early September) and on the same red two-masted 46-meter long steel vessel. I gave myself the challenge of convincing Ted the captain of the Noorderlicht to position his ship at the same anchorage spotas nine years ago. Today, on Sept. 2, 2014, the head of the fjord is full of ice f loes surrounding

our steel boat. Nonetheless, the friendly crew and guide Kelvin agreed with pleasure to grant this unusual request as a birthday gift. Everyone on board was enthusiastic about observing the differences between the picture I had with me taken in early September 2005 and the lovely perspective we could all admire today.

On shore, I positioned myself at the same GPS position to take the same picture as in 2005 of the Waggonwaybreen active glacier front (right of both pictures) overlooking the beautiful red Noorderlicht scooner anchored in so-called natural “Trinity Harbour” ,frequently used by whalers during the 17th century.

By comparing both pictures of early September 2005 versus 2014, one can immediately notice that:

different. This is specific to the

Arctic weather which is chan-ging so regularly and giving different scenic views of the same place with new colours and contrast.

pieces around the Noorderlicht in 2014 aren’t coming from the Far North drifting pack ice, but from the mass of ice of the Waggonwaybreen glacier that is melting and calving, presumably faster nowadays due to climate

change and mild temperatures.-

breen glacier front has retreated.

still of the same autumn brown, yellow-green colors, except I felt during my stay the tundra is more soft and moody.

site, showing that cruise ship arrivals with enormous crowdsshould be reduced (it seems this is in process).

Thus, might one already predict that this beautiful Bay will in 2114 be the New Ibiza ofSpitsbergen, where rich foreig-ners will spent their sunny Arctic summer on the beaches ofMad-galena, overlooking green, mossy mountains in their bikinis while others will be windsurfingor jet skiing?

An excursion down a stony path brought us to another remote glacier called Gullybreen that debouches into a side bay.There our guide came up with a fantastic idea that we all remainsilent for 10 minutes to mediate, to look at the stunning borealis-colored horizon, understand how nature is beautiful, go through our life souvenirs, our achieve-ments, consider what ournext challenges might be and to listen to the Arctic elements and spirits expressing themselves.You can’t imagine how welcome this exercise is for a bunch of “Homo Urbanus” that we are...

Air conditioner of our planetA few days before, the Noorder-licht was heading for the little island of Moffen, well known forits walrus tribes. We were unable to go through the f loating pack ice located at 79°, 59,2 N, 13° 38,7 E. The white icy carpet was broken into thousands of pieces. I was concerned observing how thin the white plateau layer was! It remind me how scrawny the pack ice already was in the sum-mer of 2009 along the mythical Arctic Northwest Passage when I sailed its crossing as a mate (more than 5,000 kilometers). So few people are in fact aware of how vital the Arctic pack ice is, along with the South Pole and the Greenlandic inlands – important for each one of us. Wherever we come from, the Philippines, Norway, UK, USA, Africa.

The Arctic is, in fact, the "air conditioner" of our planet, as its white sea ice layer ref lects muchof the sun’s heat back into space

THE AUTHOR: Patrick Reader

SEPTEMBER 2014: The fjord is full of ice and the glacier has retracted. PHOTO: PATRICK READER

SEPTEMBER 2005: This is how it looked like nine years earlier. PHOTO: PATRICK READER

TOP OF THE WORLD18

and keeps our whole planet cool, stabilizing and regulating temperatures across the rest of the world.

In the last 30 decades, we’ve lost as much as three quarters of the f loating sea ice cover. Itsvolume measured by satellites in the summer, when it reaches its smallest, has shrunk so fast that scientists say it’s now in an "alarming death spiral’. In the near future the North Pole couldbe ice-free for the first time since humans walked the Earth. This would be not only devastating for the Inuits, the polar bear and many other species as walruses and narwhals, but certainly for us as well. The moment is overdue for countries to take the first step in declaring the North Pole area a Humanity Heritage and Protected Natural Sanctuary, where only peaceful and scienti-fic activities are authorized, and in parallel for politicians to startimplementing pioneering engi-neering and robotic solutions to make sure the Arctic remains an“icy and cold” region!

The decision makerAt the end of August, boats can usually circumnavigate the big island of Spisbergen; today, the31st, Mother Nature deci-ded otherwise! Driven by the northerly winds and currents, too much ice was drifting towards us with the risk of being blocked somewhere in between Moffen and the entry of Woodfjorden. Some of us were so disappointed we couldn’t circumnavigate the

island in order to head for Wahlbergoya, Barentsoya and Edgeoya, known as the most likely areas to spot the white predator of the Arctic.

The day after, the Svalbard Viking Gods decided to give us a wonderful surprise. There it was!The ultimate marine mammal of the Arctic kingdom, the white cream “teddy bear”.

An enormous and elegant male was taking a small Spa-nish siesta under the icy sun of Smithbreenglacier in Raudfjorden. This predator had just eaten a white-beaked dolphin carcass. How gorgeous and impressive is the king of the Arctic…whaouah, everyone remained silent and atthe same time we were excited by this special encounter.

In fact, changing our naviga-tion plans brought us more south and gave us several unforgettableprecious moments of contem-plation. I wanted to share with you three memorable souvenirsemphazing the fact that Svalbard is a wildlife wonderland!

Stunning wildlife sightingsIn the Arctic, animals must feed by chasing their weakest fellows. Glaucus gulls will attack littleauks soaring in the skies or Brunich’s guillemot chicks, while the Arctic skuas will pur-sue with persistence other birds like kittiwakes until they drop their prey. The elegant small Arctic tern will defend its nest fiercely, acting like “a Spitfire aircraft”, flying with its beak over

the head of the intruder. Just be careful folks that he doesn’t grab your wig! Colonies of walruses will suck up the shellfishes that can be found on the shallow sea bed, while polar bears will hunt seals. Usually, the Arctic fox acts more like a lovely curious animal, strolling among sea bird colonies, chasing chicks and robbing eggs. Today we had the privilege in Fjortende Julibukta to watch a bunch of white and rare blue foxes having a slap-up meal by stuffing themselves with a newly dead reindeer. An unusual sight to see.

Autumn shinning tundraBellsund and southern Horn-sund are wonderful fjords known for their beautiful, uncolored geological rock scenery and energetic hikes. One of my top memories of this 15-day adventure was the three-hour walk we did on the coastal tundra of Ingeborgfjellet. The autumn tundra colors and cliff patterns were so incredible to look at! A cocktail of red, brown, yellow, white and green was shining all over the place. Snow had just fallen, showing the first signs of the Far North winter arrival. A few reindeer were gamboling and eating the last lichens to build up their reserves to face the cold winter.

Largest animal on Earth!The cherry on the cake came during the two last days, on our way to Skansebukta in Isfjorden. Suddenly, the bell of the Noor-

derlicht rang, announcing that something special was in sight. On the deck everyone remained quiet and at the same time eager to understand what mysterious thing we might observe. The word came to me that two blue whales were a few hundred me-ters from the boat. The captain stopped the engine. The sea was quite calm and the weather was greyish. Nothing was there until suddenly two majestic gigantic marine animals started to surface to breathe and to blow high up in the air a spectacular vertical spout, before raising their tail f lukes as they dove. Amazing, I should say unforgettable, to experience such a rare sighting! Once in town, I heard that more and more whales have been recently spotted here.

Now one can understand why Arctic lovers are emphasizing its pristine wildlife and protection.The Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard is without doubt magic, fascinating and deserves our respect!

There are things we can all do at home, no matter how small our daily actions may be, to preserve the enchanting Arctic, and to make sure our grandchildren may have also the pleasure of observing one day these icy Arctic beauties.

Patrick Reader is a wildlife photo-grapher and president of Arctic05 International Polar Organisation.

www.arctic05.org

DINNER: A polar fox enjoying what a dead reindeer can offer.PHOTO: PATRICK READER

GIANT: A blue whale spotted in Isfjorden. This is the largest animal on the planet. PHOTO: PATRICK READER

TOP OF THE WORLD 19

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Celebrating Christmas at 77 degrees northTrapper stories:

CHRISTMAS: Per Johnson together with Odd Lønø in the trappers cabin in Andréetangen, Edgeøya, on Christimas Eve 1964. PHOTO: PER

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»

Kapp Wijk: Built by Harald A. Soleim in 1987, beside the cabin built by Arthur Oxaas in 1937. Soleim has lived there since he built the station, and has worked as a trapper since 1976.

Austfjordnes: Built by Georg Bjørnnes in 1931 and now owned by the Norwegian government. The station was rented to trappers until 2010, when The Governor of Svalbard closed it for a two-year period. It is now reopened. Ragnhild Røssland and Frode Skar have applied to use it for trapping the coming winter season.

Akseløya: Built by Louis Nielsen in 1990. The station is now owned by Tommy Sandal who makes a living as a trapper.

Kapp Schollin: Built by Louis Nielzsen as an ad-ditional station to Akseløya. Tommy Sandal bought it and uses it during the season.

Farmhamna: Built by Hans Lund in 1991. Lund used the station for trapping until 1996. He then stayed away from trapping for 11 years before returning in 2007. Two years later he moved to Longyearbyen with his family. Last year Andreas Rebnor Olsen used the station.

Mushamna: Built by Kjell Reidar Hovelsrud in 1987. The trappers station now belongs to the Norwe-gian government and it was rented out to trappers until 2009. Now the station is closed to trappers.

Polheim: Lies in Mos-selbukta, where it was built during the early 1970s. Used for trapping in the 1980s and 1990s.

Per Johnson

During the winter of 1964-65, I overwintered as a trapper on the east coast of Svalbard. My buddy Odd Lønø and I were transported up on a sailing vessel to Tjuvfjorden at Edgeøya in August 1964. The agreement with the skipper was that they would come back to fetch us next summer at about the same time.

Three long shocks of the ship's whistle and there we were left standing by ourselves. All that was needed to sustain life for one year lay in a giant pile on the shoreline: provisions, tools, raw materials, a stove, skis, sleds, a small boat and kerosene. Six powerful Greenland dogs stood bound in a long chain. The plan was to engage in hunting polar bears and foxes, but first we had to get the old hunting lodge in order. Windows and doors had been knocked out by bears and storms. There was a meter of ice and snow inside on the f loor.

We're now going a little ahead in time: it is Christmas. Drift ice is coming and with it the bears. We have already captured 33 bears. Daylight has disappeared. At midday we see only a slight lightening over the sea in the south. We have long prepared ourselves for Christmas. Filet of bear is carved out and pounded on the chopping block. Eider, goose and grouse are hanging on the porch along with the meat of deer and seals. A wide variety of Christmas cakes are baked.

From the logbook:"There is a northerly gale and driving snow. An incredible racket from the dogs when I chop up frozen bear meat. Now they're eating in deep concentration. We have browned four eider ducks in the iron cauldron. They're standing and cooking in the sauce. Fresh Christmas cakes and coffee. Christmas presents. They came with a pine twig that we we burned in the room. The smell of burning pine, soap and smoldering candles has

formed the perfect Christmas atmosphere. We have taken the lead dog 'Pelle' in for mutual enjoyment. He is so happy that he leaps around on the f loor. It is not entirely possible to avoid thinking about the family. They always have gathered for observances and traditions on this night. Got 'Nytt Land' by Otto Sverdrup as a gift from mom and dad. Home-knitted mittens from grandma. Now I'll go out with a treat for each of the dogs. They have genuinely earned it. It is blowing so much now that one must shovel one's self out of the door.

I would call this an evocative and peaceful Christmas Eve. Far from home, but finding it tolera-ble. Good radio reception from Norway. We hear wonderful music from areas where people socialize. During the evening the wind increases. There is a tremendous pressure on the cabin. The entire place trembles and shakes. We've sat and stuffed in us seven different varieties of cakes. (To be honest, it's the same dough, just in slightly different forms.) We have also hung up some Christmas decorations. There is a feeling of ambience with a little glitter!

This was my first Christmas away from home. It will probably not be the last I celebrate on the Arctic seas, if I know myself right. It is strange to think that here we are sitting in a cabin of three-by-three meters and listening to the storm, while people worldwide are enjoying themselves together. Soon we will crawl into the sack. The only light is from the f lickers of the oven. The cabin has been here for many years. Crooked and gray. What has happened? What joys and sorrows have taken place within these weathered little walls?"

Afterward:A few days before Christmas, we heard a local radio broadcast on the long wave from Tromsø. A message from the 330 Squadron

at Andøya was read. It was re-ported that a military Albatros plane would seek out stations and trappers before Christmas. They would throw down mail. We were asked to prepare three bonfires shaped like a triangle around the cabin. The fires were lit when we heard the plane. Suddenly we hear engine noise. At a low level of altitude the plane came around Negerpynten from the south. There was great activity among us. I ran around with the prepared paraffin bottle and lit the markers. The plane made a big arc, swerved and disappeared towards the south again. Huge disappointment!

When I came home in the sum-mer 1965 and met my mother again she could narrate the following: The agenda was to announce the Air Force would send a plane to the different inhabited places on Svalbard. Fa-mily and friends could through the mail dispatch items sent to the Andøya Air Station. These items would then be thrown down to the respective addresses. My mother sent letters, cakes and lots of good food.

On the evening of the day the f light had taken place, she cal-led Andøya Air Station. She told them that she had sent a Christmas package to her son that was trapping in Tjuvfjorden on Edgeøya. Her question was whether the items had been delivered. The officer she spoke to asked her to wait while he talked with the pilots. After a while he was back with the following message: "The pilots said that when they saw no signs of life at Tjuvfjorden they took the package back again. Where can we send it in return?"

Poor Mother! All winter she feared that we at Tjuvfjorden were injured. It was only when we received a visit from a fishing boat in the spring of 1965 and were able to send a telegram that she received assurances all was in order.

'We have browned four eider ducks in the iron cauldron. They're standing and cooking in the sauce.

Freshly baked Christmas cakes and coffee. Christmas presents.'

The trapper stations

TOP OF THE WORLD22

Christopher Engås

The first settlers in Svalbard were trappers. Historians have

found evidence of Russian trap-per activity in the dark season in the mid-18th century. The first Norwegian overwinter trapper

expedition was in 1790, but it is assumed that the onset of organized trapper activity was in 1840.

Harald Soleim, 74, has made a living trapping at Kapp Wijk since 1976. He is part of a dying breed.

The dying traditionDuring the past 170 years

a handful tough people have sustained themselves in cabins on the archipelago every winter. But the tradition seems to be coming to an end.

TRAPPER'S LIFE: Harald Soleim has been a trapper in Svalbard since 1976.

PHOTO: BIRGER AMUNDSEN

In Ny-Ålesund at 79o N we have facilitated nature and climate research for more than 50 years

TOP OF THE WORLD 23

Dying traditionThe Norwegian government's goal is to sustain the trapper tradition in Svalbard. But during the last few years the number of tough men and women who are willing and able to take on the challenge of staying over winter in a cabin has decreased. The trapper tradition is in danger of becoming extinct.

The Governor of Svalbard receives only a small number of applications from people who wish to overwinter as trappers.

Soleim himself applied for a new winter, being a trapper in Svalbard.

A few years ago, there were trappers stationed in five cabins, or trapper stations as they are called. Thes stations were: Akseløya in Van Mijenfjorden, Farmhamna in Forlandssundet, Austfjordnes in Wijdefjorden, Mushamna in Woodfjorden and Kapp Wijk in Isfjorden.

39 seasonsThree years ago, Harald A. Soleim was the only trapper left on the archipelago. The now 74-year-old man from Bergen started trapping in Svalbard at Bjonahamna during the summer of 1976, but moved to Kapp

Wijk the following summer. Every winter season since then he has lived alone at his trapper station, and sustained himself by hunting nd gathering eggs and eiderdown.

Not only men have spent winters trapping in Svalbard. Six years ago, Linda Bakken spent the winter in Mushamna. For three months she was alone with her dogs.

"The worst thing about being in a trapper station during the dark season is the fact that you are isolated, with no ability to get to your family if an emergency should arise. I'm thinking of deaths and severe illness. But I had no problem getting time to pass. With more than a hundred fox traps, it took me four days to check them all. And when I was done I started all over again. I also had a lot of company in my dogs" she said.

"I certainly wouldn't mind trapping for part of a season, if opportunity should knock. I just hope that it will be possible to maintain this tradition in the future" she added.

The article is based partly on an article in Svalbardposten from January 2012.

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Geir Barstein

An unusual spring has come migrating to Svalbard, with a variety of bird species that is very rare for the archipelago.

On May 18, a hawfinch was observed and photographed at Svea.

"We went to the cafeteria to begin work, then we saw a bird I know from back home in England," wrote Tony Guest in an e-mail. "It looked very tired."

Prefers treesThe hawfinch (coccothraustes coc-cothraustes) is a finch that prefers life among the tall woodland trees to the south, where it uses its powerful beak to break up seeds and kernels. In other words, in Svalbard it is far from home and the species has only been observed twice before.

"That was in Longyearbyen in 2006 and Bjørnøya in 2011,"said Georg Bangjord, a senior advi-sor for the Norwegian Nature Inspectorate who is a biologist and expert on Svalbard's birds. "It is a very rare bird here."

Birds on the nation's birthday The list of celebrity visitors clad in feathers is long and sensa-tional, especially on Bjørnøya where it "exploded" with rarities in the days surrounding May 17.

A total of 70 different species have been recorded so far in Svalbard this year.

"That is historic so early in the year," Bangjord said. "The

annual average is 83 species and this is guaranteed to be a record year."

"Spring has been very unusual and there must have been some very special conditions in play. On average, we see two new spe-cies a year in Svalbard. Climatic and weather conditions allow even the most unimaginable species to find their way here eventually."

On May 14, the crew at the Bjørnøya Meteorological Station recorded Svalbard's first obser-vation of a common pochard, which shuff led around the waterfront with its distinctive reddish brown head and black breast.

"This is a very noteworthy finding," Bangjord said.

Yellowhammer, ring ouzel, common chaffinch, song thrush and common reed bunting are several examples of rare birds that have confusingly found themselves on the island halfway between Spitsbergen and the mainland this year.

"With fewer than five obser-vations, the common chaffinch, ring ouzel and song thrush are in the same category as the hawfinch," Bangjord said. "They are really unusual. It is a very special spring with a big push of involuntary arrivals."

Carried by the windThe smallest birds do not have good migration capabilities over open sea and were likely brought up by strong winds during this

Taking the air route to

SvalbardA historic number of rare species have been

observed in the archipelago in recent months.

period.The odds of survival for such

species are poor for an unadapted and small wretch in the far north.

"Most of them are probably on the road," the bird expert said. "They will be able to survive for a while, but it must be demon-strated that they are able to carry out an autumn migration. That is generally a one-way street."

For the hawfinch at Svea, the adventure was brief.

"It was found dead the next day," Guest wrote in his e-mail.

Svalbardposten reported in April that staff at Bjørnøya observed Svalbard's first magpie, making it the 213th registered species in the archipelago. Bangjord said magpie's presence raises some questions.

"It is unclear how it has brought itself there," he said.

"Magpies don't have the f lying characteristics to survive such a trip physically. So I think there must have been very special conditions for it to have a clear passage across the ocean on its own wings. Another possibility is that the magpie was pulled out of the sea and simply been a stowaway on a boat."

The magpie, which belongs to the crow family, is known to be a wise and sly bird. The one spotted at Bjørnøya was last seen f lying south May 3. It is not known if the seabird is still residing on the island or whether it has turned its beak toward firmer land.

Bangjord said he believes there are more unusual birds out in the terrain these days beyond those reported.

"There are probably many who

CHAFFINCH: One of several observed lately. PHOTO: VENKE IVARRUD

MAGPIE: For the very first time, a magpie appeared on Bjørnøya. The experts are surprised and says this is "a bomb." PHOTO: VENKE IVARRUD

TOP OF THE WORLD 25

see rare birds, but without their being reported," the researcher said. "That is also about a lack of knowledge of species. We encourage people to go to the website artsobservasjoner.no and send in what they see."

Bird feedersA bird feeder can also increase the chances of survival for birds swept in by the wind.

"There is that on Bjørnøya," Bangjord said. "Then the poor sparrows get mired up in resi-dence. When they come so early, they need food to get along."

However, mallards that so-metimes find refuge outside the grocery store in the center of Longyearbyen have good hopes of getting along. One named Andriken was quite apathetic upon arrival, but got a new lease

on life with the arrival of warmer weather.

"They are grazing and robust animals who manage to pull themselves far over the sea," Bangjord said. "For six years there was a male mallard who wintered in the sewage outlet in Barentsburg. The last two years he was joined by a friend."

New every yearUltimately, it all f its into a familiar pattern involving eve-rything: it's not just the air over the Arctic archipelago supplying new species. Svalbardposten reported the first sightings of mackerel in Adventf jorden nearly two years ago. That, in turn, resulted in northern gannet birds finding their way north to local latitudes.

YELLOWHAMMER: Curious little guy, but he shouldn't be here.PHOTO: VENKE IVARRUD

BRAMBLING: Not a usual bird in Svalbard, but as the climate changes more of them are appearing. PHOTO: VENKE IVARRUD

HAWFINCH: There have been only two previous observations of these birds. This one was observed at Svea in May. PHOTO : TONY GUEST

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Christian Nicolai Bjørke and

Christopher Engås

In recent years, Barentsburg has increasingly resembled a big construction site. Alexander P. Veselov, general director of the Russian mining company Trust Arktikugol, said the settlement is pursuing ambitious goals.

"In a few years we are aiming that tourism will be greater than coal mining in Barentsburg," he said. "Before that can happen we need a total renovation of the whole city. And we are well underway with that."

The accommodation capacity is considerably larger and will be further increased, and Trust Arktikugol is also planning to build a shopping center.

Trust Arktikugol has lost money on coal mining for many years, but the company is plan-ning to continue operations, especially for the settlement's own use.

"As in Longyearbyen, coal mining is a foundation and a landmark in itself," Veselov said. "But we want to have more legs to stand on and tourism is a good alternative. We have coal reserves to maintain operations at current levels for about 20 years."

The general director admits smoothly there is something unusual and perhaps even stran-ge about a coal company turning to tourism as a livelihood.

The company is in the process of recruiting guides to be

«Tourist Arktikugol»Barentsburg is strongly committed to tourism.

distributed in Barentsburg, Py-ramiden and for tour activities. They have purchased boats and snowmobiles, and just built a house in Longyearbyen for the company.

"The tourism industry in Russia has responded positively to having the Arctic as a desti-

nation," Veselov said. "Many wealthy people consider the place exotic and will see this part of the world. Personally I think it would also be positive for Longyearbyen. Few will travel to Svalbard without also visiting the Norwegian part."

SPRING: The renovation continues and many of the buildings of Barentsburg are getting a major facelift. PHOTO: EIRIK PALM

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Eirik Palm

With a tilted head and the white ends of a cell phone partly hidden he opens the door, nodding almost a little absent-mindedly, waving me in and disappearing back into his phone call. "Private" it says on the door on the right inside the hall. The artist Olaf Storø is a

public person, but he decides who he lets into his life. When people reveal who they are, you tend to believe them, he likes to say. And he likes to discuss, try to interpret and put things in perspective.

The wisestWith a giant mug on the table in front of him in the sitting

area of his kitchenette and one foot draped over the other, he continues a lively discussion with the person at the other end of the line. It offers the opportunity to look around. Piles of papers and books on the tables, and specially designed suitcases placed randomly around, reveal there are things more important for the burly man than a spotless

dining table and a neat kitchen counter. A drying rack with freshly washed clothes stands in the living room that is separated from the kitchen and dining room with a step down and a wall consisting of building blocks of glass. Only picture of the artist along with Berit Meland, with whom he shares his life and occasionally his scene with, sug-

A blue gaze upon the Arctic

Olaf Storø, 63, like bold projects and has invited art buyers to take grip of a pen. "Write about the artwork you have purchased from me and what you think about me.

And do it without a filter." Then he released a book.

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gests we are not in a bachelor pad. On the kitchen counter stands a percolator that is keeping the water hot. Intermittently it snorts out scorching-hot steam.

"Yes, but now I've got a visitor. Svalbardposten is doing a profile. Call me when he finishes." He presses the red button and puts the phone down.

"I'm hoping one day to get

ding to himself, he scores high on visual memory. Perhaps it is a property that has been exacer-bated as a result of the vision in his left eye being almost gone. Only 10 percent remains after a fatal accident in childhood. At the age of six an arrow got in his eye and, like most children, he did not tell anyone. The damage was lasting and resulted in significantly impaired vision.

"How is your work going?""I think I simplify. I never

learned about the golden ratio, but with me it's always three things that will form a pattern. A triangle that catches your interest. It may be a color blot or otherwise. And when Berit and I are on stage, I'm dependent on that she's standing on the right side. She stands on the left and I do not see the audience. It is completely wrong."

Horse and riderThe house is conspicuous where it stands among the buildings at Sjøområdet, extending in height with large expanses of glass as a sort of a lookout tower.

Another door leads into the holy of holies. This is where the pictures with the characteristic blue color are, a tint that makes you instinctively understand it's Storøs works. A kind of signature.

"For me the blue color is for the soul yearning. Life can only be lived forwards, but it can also only be understood backwards. We come from somewhere, we are headed and we are going somewhere," he tries to explain.

"Body and mind are like the horse and rider; it is not always the horse knows what the rider wants," he says. "I cannot control it; I let what happens happen. I am a vehicle for something else and part of the exercise is to burn, to give it a light. There is a sound that sounds along with the heart, which I can not explain. It's something coming that I never knew was there, and it gets tighter and tighter between these wonderful encounters."

There are high ceilings inside the studio. A spiral staircase extends three f loors up to the top f loor with large windows all the way. The long table up here reveals this tends to be where he takes guests. At the piano, Berit tends to practicing. The second f loor is partly a gallery with a longitudinal rail, exhibiting

pictures and magazines, and with views down to the heart of the building. The studio extends two stories up and the f loor surface is dominated first and foremost by a large lithography press. This is where stone plates polish and process designs until they are ready for reprints, where the colors are added and the press passes paper time after time, adding color and detail on the sheet until the artist is pleased.

In the stillness comes the thoughtsOutside it is blowing slightly. the temperature is on the right side of the scale, considering the season and latitude. The interest in the Arctic was awakened by Helge Ingstad's stories about the lives of trappers. The year was 1965 when the 11-year-old was standing with the book in his hand inside the cabin at Holtaheia in Ryfylke. The seed, which would later lead Storø to Svalbard, was sown.

He describes life as spirals. You rise up and see the other spirals under you: Spirals of experiences, stories, victories and defeats.

He quotes former Store Nor-ske Administrative Director Robert Hermansen: "There have been many uphills and in return many downs," and laughs.

"In order to progress, there must be some who are pas-sionate about something," Storø says. "The essence of art is to provoke, challenge and provide new perspectives. This requires extremes, black and white. When art melts into the gray, it becomes dangerous."

'The string to the attic'"It takes me about ten seconds to scan people – you can't write that in the newspaper – but it's magic," he says. "I think that people who burn have a stronger inner light. When people reveal who they are, you tend to believe them."

"Are you keen to challenge the structures?"

"Is that not precisely the es-sence of art?" he says. "I thinkinvolvement is important. It is very important to burn, but it should not be ugly. We must be good friends, we will live here."

Moreover, he feels confident "someone is looking after him."

"That I believe," Storø says

down to the tabletop," he says, nodding toward the crowded dining table before serving instant coffee of continental strength in a mug and stirring it with spoon. He fills up his own mug with Earl Grey, honey and milk, and droops on the sofa in the kitchenette again. I adjust myself on the two-seater vis á vis. Between us, a big green chest serves as a table. Around us are hanging objects collected over a quarter century in Svalbard, and over the head of the artist is a picture of a bush, bent by the north wind at the Ryvarden lighthouse. "Det er klokest å bøye seg" ("Is is Wiser to Bend") is the title of the work.

"My paintings should always have a double basis, there should be a catalyst for something else," he explains, adding some kind of explanation for the suitcases and gear he did not have time to unpack for exhibitions and a book launch in Longyearbyen and Ny-Ålesund. The book commemorates the passing of 25 years since he came to Svalbard.

Rare, both of themStorø has bent himself. In 2014, the book "Signature" was laun-ched, in which he writes about his works. But most importantly: He lets the current owners of the pictures tell about the pictures and their origin, and without any filter and seepage. It could have gone…well, you never know.

"It's a bold project to let others write what they think about you and your artwork, and then release it in book form," I say, putting down the mug before fishing out a pen from my pocket and preparing a blank sheet.

"I was asked by some miners to come a little earlier to Fruene," he replies. "There was much chatter and then it went more to some books. But they said, like you, that it is daring. Friendship is being that you accept people of all sorts of ways. We are in a way fond of each other anyway and then you do have to accept that people have an opinion."

He hesitates a bit, as if he is going to launch a story, and continues:

"My youngest girl Vårin says, 'you know so many weird people, pappa.' Then I say that 'it is because we are weird, both of us.'"

Storø collect stories. Large and small, and he has the powers of observation to do so. Accor- »

IN THE STUDIO: This is where Olaf Storø is making his art.

PHOTO: EIRIK PALM

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while sipping hot tea with honey."I believe in something

greater than us and as drawing us up. In my head, God has only children, not grandchildren. I think more and more about that."

"But faith has been there," he says. "The string to the attic that suits you and lead you safely."

He prefers tea with milk and honey, and a teacup is always within reach when he works. Always tea, never alcohol. Alcohol and art do not mix, he says. Moreover, whiskey makes him ill.

His childhood was charac-terized by a large presence of alcohol and Storø, at age five, would stand outside and empty one bottle after another. To put an end to the attachment by those around him. Perhaps that created the longing to get away, the driving force? Storø thinks so. And he believes he has learned many things about equality on the road.

"In my life are all of equal worth," he says. "It is perhaps what scares those in power, that I say what I mean."

First chapterA few days later Storø is sitting on a couch in one of the halls on the second floor of the house. On the walls of the bar in the foyer and inside the salon to the side are pictures hanging on display, and a small set of tables where catalogs are situated. Above him is a naked woman with a polar bear right behind. "Storfint Besøk" ("Greatly Fine Visit") he calls the image.

"It is always so that when I see the pictures, I remember what happened in the studio.

This is about fear. Imagine the feeling," he says grinning while the coffee is served.

It was in this room Storø exhibited for the first time in Longyearbyen. His first chapter about Svalbard began on a Fe-bruary day in 1989. Storø opened the door to the artists' cabin in Ny-Ålesund. In the small hut in the middle of the world's northernmost settlement, he would be inspired and work. On many days he went skiing. When he was doing outside activities, he created watercolors and paintings. The emotions were strong.

"I've been in the mountains since I was little, but here you have to learn everything again," he says. "If you are doing something wrong, you die. It's not like in Ryfylke. It was truly remarkable to come here."

He remembers his first en-counter with lithography. An image of the Recherche Ex-pedition 1838 to 1840 made a deep impression in his young mind, and when he in 1991 saw the picture again in Svalbard the impression was strongly revisited. Now he grinds his own stone, working with coal, gum arabic, silicon, linseed oil and pressure, but it should not be too

EXHIBITION: A lot of Olaf Storø's artwork is situated on the first floor at Huset. PHOTO: EIRIK PALM

I do not work to be famous. I need to work for myself.

polished. It suits him, he says. The grinding therefore happens with happens grinding with 90-powder, giving a moderately rustic look.

From the well-equipped sofa under the picture, he says he's excited about the process, about the experiments and about making discoveries. It can go fast ("sometimes so fast that I lose respect for it") or it can be an ongoing process.

"I usually say that a litho takes one to two weeks, plus 30 years."

'I go there now'He learned the craft in an arts class at school. The teacher knew how and reached an agreement where the young Storø would dig out the site of his house by hand. Payment was allowing the youngster to be involved with and making woodcuts. Hr has since gone to Vestlandsut-stillingen and in 1985 to the Graphics Workshop at Nytorget in Stavanger, where he went to study. Ten years later, he bought a used press for 35,000 kroner. He refers to himself as a "art geek." The smell of ink and oil puts him in a good mood, it creates connections to his past.

"You know the smell and presto – then you are back in childhood again. Spiraling." Smile lines appear around his eyes and he leans forward.

"I have wanted to search for the magic, the peace," he says, resuming the thread from Satur-day. "I paint for myself, not for others. Then it is just for pleasure. My background in my childhood may be a reason I won't be part of the crowd. If artwork should be readily understandable and mainstream, it's only copying. Art should not only please, it will also irritate and challenge, open doors inwards with us all."

"Have you created the perfect picture?"

"I think I have a lot of nines, but I have not yet hit a home run."

He points toward the hook mounted diagonally in the room. Two paintings of polar bears are hanging there. One bear is climbing a hill, the other strol-ling around an icy surface. The pictures translate in English as "Upwards, Ever Upwards" and "I Just Go and Wander."

The f irst symbolizes his partner Berit, the other himself.

"I do not need to be famous. I need to work for myself."

Getting

Geodesy facts

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Eirik Palm

"This is a day I have been waiting seven years for. I am getting tears in my eyes!"

Per Erik Opseth, the director of the Norwegian Mapping Authority's Geodesy Division, was excited the day the founda-tion stone was laid down for the new Geodesy Station – or Earth observatory, if you prefer.

The ceremony marked the start of a project that is seen as highly important for most people on Earth. Beginning in 2018, measurements of the Earth's surface will be even more precise thanks to the project in Ny-Ålesund. 'Important tool'Kings Bay AS has completed construction of the road out to Brandalsneset where Veidekke Arctic is responsible for the construction work.

Minister of Local Govern-ment and Regional Development Jan Tore Sanner took chage of the ceremony.

"It will be an important tool in climate research and the

Research village Ny-Ålesund is in contact with celestial bodies up to 12 billion light years away.

g down to the millimeter

monitoring of climate change," Sanner said. Hub Climate research relies on ac-curate data to determine changes with certainty, but the measure-ments are not precise unless they are known with basically 100 percent certainty. In addition to the Earth's own motion, the globe continuously changes form (see fact box). Moreover, Earth's tectonic plates are moving all the time. Svalbard, for example, is moving two centimeters a year.

Measurements must consider all this to be accurate and that requires extremely precise refe-rence points.

The further away researchers are, the more stable these points are. Therefore, the Earth obser-vatory in Svalbard uses quasars that are between seven and 12 billion light years away.

Before Earth's origins"The quasars which sent those signals were sending them long before the Earth's origin," Opseth said. "That's about as

far out" as we can imagine that outer space extends."

"Climate scientists use data from satellites for, among other things, monitoring sea level." Opseth said.

Today there are about 30 such observatories around the world, but most are in the northern hemisphere and in rich countries. Researchers believe it is neces-sary to double that total.

"Today, there is a positioning accuracy of two centimeters and with more antennas it can come down to the millimeter level," said Moritz Sieber, station commander at the Norwegian Mapping Authority's Earth observatory in Ny-Ålesund.

2018"Geodesy is the basis of satellite observation, but the positioning of the satellite cannot be more accurate than our position was," he said. "For climate researchers that means that for greater ac-curacy they have to wait 50 years before they have a fully confident answer. With more observatories they can have the answer faster, maybe just over ten years."

RESEARCH VILLAGE: Ny-Ålesund is the world's northernmost permanent settlement and plays a key role in climate research.

PHOTO: EIRIK PALM

GEODECY: This is how the new Earth observatory will look in 2018. The antennas are pointing at quasars up to 12 billion lightyears away.

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Eirik Palm

Whalers Bay – Kvalbukta –as it has been known by sailors since ancient times, is the area from the ice edge just north of Spitsbergen. Beginning around 1670, the seamen participated in intense hunts for bowhead whales around northern Sval-bard, but in the early 1880s the activity came to an abrupt end as the stock collapsed.

Under changing circumstan-ces until now, the conclusion has been the whale population dropped because of large-scale hunting, but professor Jørgen

Berge at The University Cen-tre in Svalbard/University of Tromsø and colleague Stig Falk-Petersen at Akvaplan-niva/ UiT are not certain that's the only reason.

Nutrent-rich waterAfter several years of studies, they argue coping with the ra-pidly expanding sea ice cover was an equally important cause because the ice prevented light from penetrating, resulting in a sharp drop in the production of algae and glacialis – the whale's main food source. Therefore the living conditions of the bowhead

New spring for the giants

Quickly spreading ice was as important as hunting for the collapse in the bowhead whale population,

according to Arctic researchers.

whale also changed quickly."We are very confident about

this," Berge said. "It includes previously published results and our own theses."

In addition to documentation from various expeditions and logbooks from whalers who confirmed the area was ice-free from 1670 to 1800, they used satellite measurements. The measurements show that area was completely covered by ice from 1979 to 1998, but the cover then decreased.

Similar conditions in 2004 allowed Norwegian Polar In-stitute researchers Kit Kovacs and Christian Lydersen to successfully attach a radio trans-mitter to a bowhead whale. The transmitter showed that whales followed the earlier traffic artery along the coast of Greenland and

north to Kvalbukta.During times such as now,

when there is little ice in the area, scientists believe it provi-des a basis for an upwelling of nutrient-rich water, which in turn results in a high production of glacialis.

"Our hypothesis is therefore that conditions now are favorable for an increase in the population of bowhead whales, and that food reserves north of Svalbard are the treasure chest the surviving bowhead whales are looking for on their journey across the North Atlantic and the Arctic," the researchers wrote in an essay that has also been reproduced in the Norwegian newspaper Aftenposten.

ChimneyIn 2012, the researchers de-

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Geir Barstein

The Norwegian Polar In-stitute (NPI) has been granted permission to tag blue and f in whales in Svalbard this autumn. It is not known how these animals spend the winter in the south, so fitting them with transmitters to track their route via satellite will provide essential information, according to the NPI's application to The Governor of Svalbard.

"In recent decades there has been an increase of these whales in the Svalbard area in the summer," wrote Christian Lydersen, one of the Norwegian Polar Institute researchers, in the application. "The increase was most pronounced in the past four to five years."

"As of today, we do not know where they are staying in the winter, and also very little about the migration routes they follow."

The transmitters will be at-tached by shooting the whales with short spears from an air rif le when they surface to breathe.

Reavealing the secrets of the blue whale

BLUE GIANT: The blue whale has been observed often in Isfjorden in recent years. This one is showing how he got his name.

PHOTO: FRANK BAKKEN

monstrated for the first time an upwelling of warm Atlantic waters along the Arctic shelf edge. Such "chimneys" occur when ice retreats to the shelf break during the winter, which has been observed along the entire east side of Nordaustlan-det. The warm, nutrient-rich water is transported under the fresh, cold water until it rises. Berge and Falk-Petersen have also registered large amounts of the fatty Calanus glacialis, which are found at the bir-thplace of Greenland's whales.

"Due to less ice in recent years, we are seeing conditions that form the basis for recrea-ting this chimney effect," Berge said, adding he is uncertain if the bowhead whale will be-come a numerous species again.

Whale facts

Balaenoptera musculus

Balaena mysticetus

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More stories from the

High Arctic

The Governor of Svalbard The Norwegian Government’s highest ranking representative in SvalbardHead of law enforcement and environmental protectionResponsible for search and rescue missions

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Since the 1600s people from several nations have carried out various activities in Svalbard, such as hunting and fishing, research, mining and tourism. For many years, these activities took place without the region belonging to any particular state. Svalbard was international common ground.

This meant that there were no laws or regulations, and there were no courts to settle disputes. This functioned well as long as the activities on the archipelago were limited to fishing, hunting, mining and research. The ter-ritory was vast, and there were few conflicts.

In the early 1900s the increas-ing mining activity created the need for change. It became im-portant to own the sole rights to land areas and mineral deposits. The need for legislation and courts to settle disputes arose.

Several attempts at finding a solution were made, but it was not until the Versailles negotiations after World War I that an agreement was reached. The Svalbard Treaty was signed Feb. 9, 1920.

Basic principlesThe Svalbard Treaty recognizes Norway's full and absolute sovereignty over Svalbard, on the terms set forth in the treaty. Limitations are not placed on sovereignty as such, but on how Norwegian authority may be exercised in certain specific areas. Norway therefore has an exclusive right to exercise authority in these areas as well, but must ensure the terms are respected by way of legislation and administration.

Non-discriminationSvalbard is part of the Kingdom of Norway. All activities are governed by legislation enacted by Norwegian authorities. Ho-wever, under the treaty, Norway is obliged to grant equal reghts to citizens and companies from all the parties to the treaty in certain fields:* Entrance to and residence in Svalbard. * Fishing and hunting.* Maritime, industrial, mining

and commercial activities. * Acquisition, enjoyment and exercise of property rights, including mineral rights.

In these fields, Norwegian authorities must ensure that, when the legislation is enacted and enforced, no one is treated differently on the basis of na-tionality.

TaxationArticle 8 of the Svalbard Treaty provides that collected taxes, fees and charges shall benefit Svalbard only. Norway may not use its authority to secure reve-nues beyond those needed for the administration of Svalbard. In practice, this means that the income tax in Svalbard is lower than on the Norwegian main-land. There is no tax on goods and sevices, or other fiscal taxes. All revenues and expenses in-volved in the administration of Svalbard are kept in a seperate budget, which is known as the Svalbard budget.

Military limitationsUnder Article 9, Norway is obli-ged to prevent the establishment of fortifications and naval bases. Svalbard must never be used for warlike purposes. Norway has a low key military presence in Svalbard, which consists of mainly coast guard surveillance.Foreign military activity is prohibited.

Environmental preservationThe treaty also expressively states Norway has the responsi-bility of preserving the natural environment in Svalbard.

The treaty todayThe Svalbard Treaty is one of the few legal instruments negotiated at Versailles that still has practical signifficance today. The main objective of Norwegian policies on Svalbard has always been to respect the treaty and to ensure it is com-plied with in order to secure peace and stability in the area.

At present about 2,600 people live in Svalbard. They represent several different na-tionalities, but most of them are Norwegians living in Longyear-

The Svalbard Treaty in brief

byen, Svea and Ny-Ålesund, and Russians and Ukranians living in Barentsburg.

The treaty provides no rules regarding research activities, apart from stating such rules are to be set forth under a seperate agreement. No such agreement has been formed.

In practice – and in the spirit of the Svalbard Treaty – rese-archers from all countries are nonetheless given equal rights to conduct research. During the past few years, considerable international research activity has developed in Svalbard.

SIGNIFICANT: The Svalbard Treaty is one of the few legal instruments negotiated at Versailles that still has practical significance today. PHOTO: EIRIK PALM

We also have winter clothes for children.Open daily, also on your request.

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*Knitwear shop.*Taxfree prices.

*Pure wool or wool with silk.

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The day Svalbard stood stillAnd watched a perfect eclipse.

Geir Barstein

For exactly two minutes and 24.7 seconds, Svalbard was at the center of the solar system – at least for the thousands of people who witnessed the spectacular phenomenon from the archipelago.It happened precisely as predic-ted. Ten minutes and 42 seconds after 11 a.m., the sun, moon and Longyearbyen aligned in a straight line. Adventdalen suddenly filled with darkness from the cosmic shadow, while a strange, silvery light f lickered across the snow and played tricks with shadows.

"I cannot believe it. I cannot believe it. We are standing in the Arctic and there is a total solar eclipse," said Richard Patching, a Canadian visitor well into the distribution of celebratory cham-paign only a few minutes later.

"We bought too cheap a champagne," said Kathy Biers-dorff, his wife.

"But I need another glass."

Cosmic coincidenceSome responded with cheers. Others with silence. Some shed tears, some laughed and some did both. The moon is 400 times smaller than the sun, but it is 400 times closer to Earth. That cosmic coincidence allows them to fit perfectly over one another

"Diamond ring! Diaaaamond ring!" a group of enthusiastic Japanese visitors shouted as the last solar rays were concentrated between mountains and valleys on the moon. The resulting flare of light gave the impression of a diamond ring in the sky.

Then the valley descended into a short, but strange night.

The corona, the outermost part of the sun's atmosphere, rose up like a glowing wreath. The ghostly light was ref lected from Svalbard's white-clad mountains and tundra, while a magical feeling settled over the valley.

In east and west, where the

rest of the world lay outside the shadow of the moon, the horizons glowed in warm orange and red.

"I still haven't landed yet," said Håkon Dahle, a researcher at the Institute of Theoretical Astrophysics at the University of Oslo who has seen one previous total solar eclipse.

"The euphoria is still linge-ring," he said. "Even if I compare it with the wildest hopes I had beforehand, this was even bet-ter."

'Best solar eclipse'Similar exclamations were plentiful, even among the many hardened eclipse hunters who spent several years of planning and huge sums of money for thoose few precious seconds.

"I have seen 11 total solar eclipses," Patching said. "All have been good, but this was the best."

"I've seen eight," said Lloyd Franklin, visiting from Wash-

ington, D.C. "With this lands-cape as a backdrop, it is one of the most beautiful."

Had 'everything'Pål Brekke, a solar physicist at The University Centre in Svalbard and Norwegian Space Center, also said he was over-whelmed.

"This was one of the finest moments I've had in my life," he said. "The weather and the setting was fantastic. Absolutely magical. And it made as great an impression experiencing it with other people, and seeing how they were spellbound. Even locals, who previously thought that 'it is certainly fine to be able to see it ourselves,' say it exceeded all expectations."

The event, Brekke said, had "everything" an eclipse can and should have. The sun's low location and the cold, dry air made the corona exceptionally sharp and lovely. The diamond ring effect was brilliant and

IMPRESSED: Solar physicist Pål Brekke was impressed by the perfect eclipse. To the right you can see the "diamond ring".

PHOTOS: GEIR BARSTEIN

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small, purple beads along the edge revealed the solar chromosphere.

Many noted in particular the strange lights that dan-ced over the ground during the minutes before and after totality. They caused a rare phenomenon that rarely oc-curs so clearly and beautifully.

"These are called shadow bands and it was completely insane," said Brekke, compa-ring the sight with the light that can be seen at the bottom of a swimming pool. "Very few have ever seen them as clearly as now. They are caused when the light is ref lected in the atmosphere."

"People usually tend to lay out white sheets to see them during solar eclipses, but here we were on the world's largest sheet," he said.

The only natural phenome-non that did not materialize was a daytime aurora.

"That would have been a

bonus, but we are aiming to get that during the solar eclipse over Svalbard in 2061," Brekke said with a laugh.

Next chanceThe perfect solar eclipse attracted attention globally, especially since Svalbard was the only inhabited area with clear skies and a total blackout of the sun.

If the internet is any in-dicator, it will be far more crowded in Longyearbyen when the next eclipse occurs in 46 years. Only a few days after the perfect blackout, the newly created Facebook event "Solar Eclipse 2061" had more than 50,000 registrants hoping to still be alive and witness the "century event."

"I'm 72 that year,» one woman wrote. "Then I' l l simply invest in a walker with winter tires and I'm in!"

SPECTACULAR: Suddenly it becomes dark and the corona surrounding the sun appears.

PHOTO: TOMMY DAHL MARKUSSEN / SVALBARDPICTURES

We have almost everything!

OPENING TIMES: MON-FRI 1000 - 1700

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LIFE IN ICE AND LIGHT

THE EXHIBITIONShowing Svalbard’s natural and cultural

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THE MUSEUM SHOPThe museum shop offers a wide selection of literature in several

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List of provisionsAccording to his diaries,

Nøis needed the following provisions needed to live out in Svalbard, cut off from the outside world, for one year. In addition, he hunted meat and collected eggs.

20 kg. f lour18 kg. margarine5 kg. rice15 kg. oats5 kg. small grains2 kg. coffee

1/2 kg. tea5 bottles of juice3 kg. prunes3 kg. raisins50 kg. potatoes5 kg. dried potatoesVarious spices12 cans condensed milk1 kg. dry milk15 kg. syrup1 barrel of sour milk (to

prevent scurvy)

Source: Norwegian Polar Institute

SVALBARD SKIMARATONAPRIL 30. 2016

INFORMATION79 02 13 33

POST@SVALBARDTURN.NO

SPITSBERGEN MARATHONJUNE 4. 2016

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Geir Barstein

The legendary Hilmar Nøis is the trapper with the most seasons in Svalbard. Throug-hout 38 winters "The King of Sassen Bay" kept to the small cabins throughout Spitsbergen, regardless of weather or wind, looking for meat, pelts and eggs.

But there was one "cottage" that stood out: The main station at Villa Fredheim. Construc-tion started in 1924, and upon completion a beautiful house with two f loors and a f lagpole stood on the beach in beautiful Tempelfjorden.

GentlyBut time would prove to be an enemy. Slowly, but surely, erosion and rising sea levels threatened to engulf the building, the largest trapping station in Svalbard.

After several years of plan-ning, officials took dramatic action in April of this year. With the help of a snowcat they simply built a foundation 50 to 60 meters from the shore and moved the cabin to safer ground. The relo-cation took only three minutes.

Facts

Moving the legendary

trapper's cabinVilla Fredheim was threatened by the sea. Now

the famous structure been rescued from the forces of nature.

"I was terrified that we were going to get ourselves stuck firm

down there, so it was just about driving full tilt to get it up," said Knut Fastvold, a machine operator for LNS Spitsbergen. "Once it first started sliding it went quickly." After 91 years, trapper Hilmar Nois' famous cabin is standing on perfectly level new ground that's higher, but with the same beautiful views of Tempelf jorden and Sassenfjorden, where polar bears hunt for seals on the ice during the winter.

Good place"I think Nøis would applaud and feel honored. It is respec-ting and honoring his memory, and he represents the history of Svalbard," said Hans Olav Stegarud, a cultural heritage and conservation advisor for The Governor of Svalbard, when he visited the cabin at its new location for the first time.

"It feels a bit strange, but it looks very nice," he said. "I think it is a good place for people to sit and have a coffee in the sun."

It was already clear by the 1990s the sea was making in-roads and threatening to swallow Villa Fredheim into the eroding beach embankment. There's no guarantee cultural monuments can be salvaged from nature in Svalbard, but Stegarud said the cabin is judged as having an extra high value.

"From a professional stand-point, it is strange to do so-mething like that because it is changing a part of history," he said. "However, it is scary when the sea is coming in. The build-ing has such a high source and

usefulness value that we chose to do something about it."

The cabin's proximity to Longyearbyen was also a factor, Stegarud added. He said the re-location would not have occurred if it was standing on a difficult-to-access island far away.

ErosionBeyond a location a safe distance from the seashore, good drainage and stability were essential when choosing a new site.

"This was the only real al-ternative," Stegarud said. "We found 4,500-year-old shells a half meter down from here, so the ground isn't sagging. This is a stable motherground."

The speed of shoreline's erosion varies. Some years "only" centimeters disappear, while during others meters of land are consumed by the sea. The metal frame built to tow the cabin remains attached so it can be moved if necessary in the future.

"But it will a a long time before that," Stegarud said. "The erosion is about one meter per year, so it will not be threatened for about 40 to 50 years.»

Some work remains to be done before the main cabin is ready for use. The inside was thoroughly braced with rods last year in preparation for the move and the f loor was removed for inspection.

"The f loorboards will be put into place in the same order they were," Stegarud said. "The main tasks are completed and we hope that the rest are cleared up during the summer."

ON THE MOVE: Slowly, the cabin starts moving. Three minutes later the job is done and the historic building is saved from erosion. An overview of the trapping station is to the left.

PHOTOS: GEIR BARSTEIN

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A Taste of ThaiAuthentic Thai curries, soups and noodle dishes, plus sandwiches, salads and pasteries.

Barentsburg Hotel

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Barentz Pub & SpiseriCasual gathering place in the middle of Longyearbyen. Many meet at the "world's northern-most bar" to eat "daily specials" or just chat with friends and acquaintances.

Brasserie NansenA nice place with good views of Hiorthfjellet and a good kitchen at the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen.

Coal Miners' Cabins

FrueneA cafe and eatery with heavy traffic, especially at lunch time. Many residents of Longyear-byen meet here to eat homemade meals. Fruene also produces their own chocolates. Funken BarFireplace lounge with Chester-field furniture and an extensive polar library that provides the feeling of being back in the time of Nansen and Amundsen. Funksjonærmessen Restau-rantHistoric eatery up the valley in Longyearbyen. In earlier times it was here workers in the old mining community took their meals. In addition to a good kitchen, the restaurant offers no less than 70 champagne brands.

GruvelageretRustically furnished pub in Sverdrupbyen with a Svalbard coal mining theme. Debuted in February of 2015 with a menu specializing in Arctic food.

Huset CaféA gathering place for many decades. Good atmosphere, but simpler and more casual than the restaurant. Huset RestaurantThe restaurant's menu changes with the seasons, but local ingredients are a constant. The wine collection represents one of Europe's largest wine cellars.

Karlsberger PubA pub/bar in mine-inspired sur-roundings. Perhaps the largest collection of whiskey you've ever seen? Kita SushiThis is the northernmost sushi restaurant, with delectable small dishes that are made in an instant.

KroaSteakers Svalbard - or just Kora - is known for its warm atmo-sphere. The food is characterized by seasonal ingredients, a good kitchen and attracting many regular diners. Mary Ann's PolarriggIt feels as if you are outside while in there, surrounded by glass, but the temperature is pleasant and the mood is good in the "Vinter-hagen" ("Winter Garden"), a very different kind of restaurant a few minutes' walk from the center of Longyearbyen. Rabalder cafe at KulturhusetCafé with its own bakery and plenty of space for the children in the foyer in the cultural heart of the center of Longyearbyen. Svalbar PubLicensed sports pub - and homemade burgers. A meeting place preferred by many. The atmosphere is great, especially during a live game of football on the big screen.

Food and drinkSvalbard is known for many eating places with good kitchens.

And if you just want to quench your thirst or fancy a good cup of coffee, there are a number of places available.

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www.svalbardblues.com2015 OCTOBER 22 - 25 2016 OCTOBER 27 - 30

The four-day festival is an annual event in late October at 78 degrees north in Longyearbyen. It marks the beginning of the dark season when daylight and the sun is about to leave Svalbard

for four long winter months.

The World’s Northernmost Blues FestivalDARK SEASON BLUES

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Choose your own Arctic adventureSVALBARD

BOOK NOWBooking day trips has never been easier! You can book 24 hours a day online on www.spitsbergentravel.com, or in person at the reception at the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen, Spitsbergen Hotel or Coal Miners’ Cabins.

For packages with accommodation, activities and more, contact Spitsbergen Travel directly on info@spitsbergentravel.no or ring +47 7902 6100.

THE LOCAL EXPERTS Northern lights and Polar night or midnight sun and

perfect program for your Arctic adventure. Whatever the season, we are here to help you get the most out of your visit to Svalbard, with a range of exciting activities available throughout the year. Whether you

dation, activities and more, or want to add a little more adventure to your stay, our knowledgeable local team look forward to hearing from you!

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