Tools of the Shop

MEGR 2299

Machinery General• Never wear long sleeves, never allow long hair to hang free. • Always wear safety glasses.• A cutting tool is usually an insert, drill bit, end mill, or device

that contacts the work in order to remove some of the work in a controlled manner.

• A machine tool is a device that holds the tool. • Always clean off your machines when done working. • If you don’t know what speeds or feeds you need, please ask. • Never operate a machine that uses coolant, and you notice

there isn’t coolant flowing.

Vertical Band Saw

Vertical Band Saw• Good for cutting some shape, or curved patterns. • Good for very thin or thick sections. • Good for hard or soft materials – band speed dependent and

band material dependent. # of teeth per inch also predicates the material it can cut.

• MUST adjust speed for the material you wish to cut. • Always push material through with a piece of wood. • No coolant needed with this machine.• Safety concern is flying chips, and fingers when pushing on

stock. • This will cut almost all materials. –adjustable SFM

Vertical Saw Speed Adjuster

Horizontal Band Saw

Horizontal Band Saw• Good for cutting large and heavy sections. • Makes a decent finish, holds a decent line. • Speed is fixed, feed is adjustable. • Feed is set by regulating bleed off air pressure on a cylinder.

Feed faster through soft materials, and slow through hard materials.

• Thickness of blade, material of blade, and # of teeth per inch on blade will determine your ability to cut materials.

• This saw does use coolant, do not attempt to cut without coolant flowing.

• Primary safety concerns are fingers when adjusting stock in vise.

Hydraulic Sheer

Hydraulic Sheer• This tool uses extreme pressure exerted on very hard and

sharp dies called blades or shears. • The pressure is so great and so focused the slip planes in the

materials crystal structure is found and exploited, or cut. • Limitations = steel .032” max, aluminum .065” max. Beyond

these thicknesses will probably cut but wear out the ways and the edges on the dies.

• Pay particular attention to your finger placement when pressing the start button.

Drill Press

Drill Press• This tool is designed to hold a bit, and provide a stiff platform

to hold your work piece. • It is adjustable in speed, you the operator control the feed. • To figure the speed setting use this:

• CS X 4 D• Where:• CS = cutting speed (found in look up chart)• D = Diameter of drill bit

• A general principle with the drill press is the larger the drill bit, the slower the speed.

Cutting Speed Chart

Material

Ballpark CS with High-Speed Tool

Cutting Speed High-Speed Tool

Cutting Speed

Carbide Tool

Feed/RevFeed/Rev Carbide

Tool

HSS Tool Lathe*

Lathe*

SAE 1020 - Low Carbon Steel

100 80-120 300-400 .002-.020 .006-.035

SAE 1050 - High Carbon Steel

60 60-100 200 .002-.015 .006-.030

Stainless Steel 100 100-120 240-300 .002-.005 .003-.006

Aluminum 250 400-700 800-1000 .003-.030 .008-.045

Brass & Bronze 200 110-300 600-1000 .003-.025 .008-.040

Plastics* 500 500 1000 .005-.050 .005-.050

Feed Advancement Progression

MATERIAL BRINELL HARDNESS

HOLE DIAMETER

1/16″ 1/8” ¼” ½” ¾” 1 1 1/2 2

Aluminum 99-101 0.001 0.003 0.007 0.012 0.016 0.02 0.025 0.03

Aluminum Bronze 170-187 0.001 0.003 0.004 0.008 0.01 0.012 0.015 0.02

Balkelite - 0.002 0.005 0.006 0.008 0.01 0.012 0.015 0.015

Brass 192-202 0.001 0.003 0.004 0.008 0.012 0.018 0.02 0.022

Bronze, Common 166-183 0.001 0.003 0.004 0.008 0.012 0.018 0.02 0.022

Bronze Phos.; 1/2 Hard

187-202 0.001 0.003 0.004 0.008 0.01 0.012 0.015 0.02

Bronze Phos.; Soft 149-163 0.001 0.003 0.004 0.008 0.012 0.018 0.02 0.022

Celluloid - 0.002 0.004 0.005 0.006 0.006 0.008 0.008 0.01

Copper 80-85 0.001 0.003 0.004 0.008 0.01 0.012 0.015 0.02

Copper Mang.; 30% Mn

134 0.001 0.003 0.005 0.007 0.009 0.012 0.014 0.016

Duralumin 90-104 0.001 0.003 0.005 0.01 0.015 0.018 0.02 0.025

Iron, Cast; Med Soft 196 0.001 0.003 0.005 0.008 0.01 0.012 0.014 0.015

Iron, Cast; Hard 293-302 - 0.001 0.003 0.005 0.007 0.009 0.012 0.012

Iron, Cast; Chilled 402 - 0.001 0.003 0.005 0.007 0.009 0.011 0.011

Iron, Malleable 112-126 - 0.002 0.004 0.007 0.01 0.012 0.015 0.018

Cold Saw

Cold Saw• The cold saw is a saw used to cut hard and thick sections of

material. • It cuts slowly and loud.• Its called a cold saw because unlike it’s counter part –(chop

box) the material is ambient when cut. • With a sharp blade the finish is excellent, and the line through

the stock is excellent. • This tool uses coolant, never operate with out a steady flow. • Pull steady on the handle but do not force. • Low hazard for chip flying, most safety is related to the noise. • Will cut, ferrous and non ferrous materials.

Tube Notcher

Tube Notcher• This machine tool is designed specifically for notching tubular

material. The notches are specific to the diameter of the tool used in chuck.

• The primary purpose is notching tubes to make a chassis. • The tool speed is adjustable, the tool is in a fixed position. The

stock advances into the spinning tool. Feed rates depend on tool material, lubricant, number of teeth on the tool, tool diameter, stock size and material.

• Just like drilling, as tool diameter goes up speed goes down, and as stock harness goes up feed goes down.

Tube Notcher Tools

Fine helical Course helical Continuous

Bead Roll

Bead Roll• This tool is used to make a bead in light gage sheet metal. • Beads strengthen a open section of sheet metal. • This machine is limited to very light gage steel, .023” thick, or

up to .065” aluminum. • The primary safety issue is related to pinching your fingers. • The primary machine limitation is material thickness due to

strength of the fixturing and power of the motor.

Tube Bender

Tube Bender• This machine is used to non-mandrel bent steel tubing. It uses

dies specific to the diameter you would like to bend. • This machine is pneumatic, and reasonably powerful. • We don’t use this much because we have access to a CNC

bender. • The primary safety concerns are pinching fingers.

Hand Roll

Hand Roll• This tool is full manual, you need to crank the lever to make

the rollers move and you also need to guide in your sheet metal.

• This machine is limited to thin materials, and slow increases of radial changes.

• The primary purposes are to curve sheet metal. Industrial rolls come with power drives and can roll 1 inch plate.

• The primary safety concern with a roll is pinching fingers. Since you have to crank it with one hand, its unlikely you will pinch your fingers, but people helping you hold the work material could have their fingers pinched.

Finger Brake

Finger Brake• This machine is full manual. You place your part in the jaws

and apply the clamp. Lift on the red handles and it will bend the piece of material until you stop pulling.

• You can attach a magnetic level to determine the angle you are trying to bend.

• The primary safety concern is pinching your fingers by the clamp.

Belt / Disk Sander

Belt / Disk Sander• This machine is heavily used in the shop, and great for

knocking off an edge of saw cut material. • It has (2) powered sanding surfaces to use. 1- a steel backed

vertical belt. 2- a steel backed disk. • The limitations depend on the grit, or roughness of the

sandpaper that is on it. • It will provide the first level of de-burring necessary, and

reasonably dressed edges. • The primary safety concerns are pieces getting hot from

sanding and burning your fingers, and slipping off your part and sanding your fingers tips off.

• Can sand anything the sandpaper is designed for.

Stone / Wire wheel

Wire wheel Stone

Stone / Wire wheel• Stone’s are vitrified and specific to ferrous metals. Never try

and grind aluminum with one of these stones. The aluminum gets imbedded into the stone, heats up, expands, then explodes the stone into your face.

• Stones come in different grits. This will drastically change the finish after grinding. The stone should be between 1/16th and 1/8th away from the rest. Larger gaps can cause your part to be sucked in.

• The wire wheel is good for lightly cleaning threads, removing rust, and some coatings.

• Both the stone and the wire wheel are very dangerous, they each can quickly remove skin, and the stone throws sparks and material into the air, usually at your eye ball.

Buffer Wheel

Buffer Wheel• Buffer wheels are specifically designed to de-burr edges without

leaving directional grooves and leaving a highly polished finish.• They can de-burr anything hard, metallics and some non-

metallics. Wheels come in different grits, and different densities.

• They are meant to be a last step in the de-burring process. • Must wear safety glasses, and high quality dust mask. The

particulate from the wheel is very bad for your lungs. • Make sure the material your buffing isn’t sensitive to other

materials. For example buffing on aluminum when the previous person was buffing on carbon steel. The steel was embedded into the wheel, now is embedded into your aluminum.

Levels of De-Burring• In industry a rough saw cut, laser cut, water jet cut, plasma cut,

or flame cut will earn you a bad reputation. Never deliver someone a as cut piece unless the prints instruct you to do so.

• De-burring edges can be done with several tools, a simple file can go a long way. The most important thing is the finished edge is consistent with the remainder of the part. For example a fully machined piston would not receive a belt sanded edge as finish prep, but a chassis would.

• Here we expect you to ask, and consider the tools available to you.

• Proper finishing technique is important to the operation of some parts and a good indicator of your thoroughness and attention to detail. If your going to be a designer, you can specify how you want your edges dressed, there are many options.

De-burring cont.• After saw cutting you can de-burr in many ways, here are a

few options. • Saw cut, die grinder with # 80 disk, die grinder with # 120 disk,

rough buffer wheel, soft buffer wheel. –(all depending on what your starting with)

• If you start with a flame or plasma cut, you may have to stone the edge first, then move through the steps above. Heat cutting leaves a hardened edge.