Hit the great outdoors and

discover the best places to pitc

h a tent in AustraliaCAMPING IT UP

Sailing theWhitsundays

STAIRWAYTO HAVEN

Jan 9-15 2011 Issue 663 tntdownunder.com

WIN!A $4,500

EAST COAST ROADTRIP PACKAGE

Visiting Koreas troubled border

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ARTISTS INCLUDEStaff Benda Bilili Democratic Republic of Congo Tinariwen Mali Gurrumul Australia Sharon Shannon

Big Band Ireland Grace Barb Seychelles/Australia First Aid Kit Sweden Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain UK Chic USA Chapelier Fou France Blue King Brown Australia Eddi Reader Scotland

Johnny Clegg South Africa Dobet Gnahor Ivory Coast Bonobo UK Penguin Cafe UK Groundation Jamaica/USA Master Drummers of Burundi Burundi Diego Guerrero y El Solar de Artistas Spain DJ Krush

Japan The Barons of Tang Australia Shane Howard Australia LoJo France Shivkumar Sharma India Le Trio Joubran Palestine Mo Horizons Germany The Pigram Brothers Australia Nano Stern & The Sindicato Chile

Kimmo Pohjonen Finland Mahala Ra Banda Romania La Voce Della Luna Italy/Australia Melbourne Ska Orchestra Australia Pascals Japan Narasirato Solomon Islands The Bombay Royale Australia The Bearded Gypsy Band Australia

Jinja Safari Australia anda Union China Jay Hoad Band Fiji/USA/Australia ...

PLUS: KidZone, Taste the World, a Global Village, visual arts, street theatre and so much more!

TUE 24 JAN, THE ENMORELICENSED & ALL AGES

WED 1 FEB, THE PALACE

TUE 24 JAN, THE ENMORELICENSED & ALL AGES

TICKETS: TICKETEK.COM.AU, 132 849, ENMORE BOX OFFICE 02 9550 3666 & BIGDAYOUT.COM

WED 1 FEB, THE PALACETICKETS: TICKETMASTER.COM.AU, 136 100, PALACE.COM.AU, BIGDAYOUT.COM RYKSOPP

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FRI 27 JAN : THE ENMORELIC. & ALL AGESTICKETS: TICKETEK.COM.AU, 132 849, ENMORE THEATRE BOX OFFICE 02 9550 3666 & BIGDAYOUT.COM

THU 2 FEB : THE PA CETICKETS: TICKETMASTER.COM.AU, 136 100, PALACE.COM.AU, BIGDAYOUT.COM

SAT 28 JAN OXFORD ART FACTORYTICKETS: WWW.MOSHTIX.COM.AU, 1300 438 849

TUE 31 JAN NORTHCOTE S.C.TICKETS: 9486 1677, WWW.CORNERHOTEL.COM,9427 9198 & WWW.BIGDAYOUT.COM

with SNEAKY SOUND SYSTEM

FRIDAY 27th JANUARYSYDNEY ENTERTAINMENT CENTRETICKETS: WWW.TICKETMASTER.COM.AU, 136 100 & WWW.BIGDAYOUT.COM

TUESDAY 31st JANUARYSIDNEY MYER MUSIC BOWLTICKETS: WWW.TICKETMASTER.COM.AU, 136 100, THEARTSCENTRE.COM.AU, 1300 182 183 & WWW.BIGDAYOUT.COM

supported by Hot 30

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SYD FRI 27 JAN, THE HORDERNTICKETS: WWW.TICKETEK.COM.AU, 132 849, WWW.BIGDAYOUT.COM

MEL TUE 31 JAN , FESTIVAL HALLTICKETS: WWW.TICKETMASTER.COM.AU, 136 100, WWW.BIGDAYOUT.COM

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MELTICKETS: TICKETEK.COM.AU, 132 849, BIGDAYOUT.COM

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SYD WED 25 JAN, SYDNEY ENT. CENTRETICKETS: WWW.TICKETMASTER.COM.AU, 136 100 & WWW.BIGDAYOUT.COM

TICKETS: WWW.TICKETMASTER.COM.AU, 136 100, THEARTSCENTRE.COM.AU, 1300 182 183 & WWW.BIGDAYOUT.COM

LICENSED & ALL AGES

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TUE 31 JAN, THE PALAIS

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 5

FEATURES

CARRY ON CAMPING 8We take to the great outdoors and reveal our fave Aussie camping spots

JUST BUGGING YOU 18Comedian Adam Buxton is awesome. Hes coming to Oz, so we had to call him

SUNDAY SERVICE 34From drinking in Airlie to sailing away, we lap up the Whitsundays

KOREA BREAK 40Taking a trip to the DMZ the worlds most heavily-armed border

THIS WEEK

EDITORS LETTER

How long ago does Christmas feel already, eh? Yep, were now well into January and the sun is truly shining, so for those of you currently doing the east coast pilgrimage (or even still dreaming about it), weve got a story or two on the glorious Whitsundays, one place you really dont want to miss. Thats on p34. Oh, and this week weve also been getting very excited about camping (p8). Happy travels!

ANDREW WESTBROOKEDITOR editor@tntdownunder.com

8

34

18

OZ DIARY 6

MUSIC & FILM 14

COMPETITION 20

CELEB NEWS 22

NEWS 27

SPORT 29

TRAVEL 30

LISTINGS NSW 46

LISTINGS QUEENSLAND 47

LISTINGS VIC 51

LISTINGS TASMANIA 55

LISTINGS WA 56

LISTINGS SA 58

LISTINGS NT 59

LISTINGS NEW ZEALAND 60

LISTINGS FIJI 62

WORK 63

TRIVIAL PURSUITS 66

40

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM6

OZDIARY

THE MAIN EVENTBRISBANE ROAR VS SYDNEY FC [BRISBANE]

$12 If youre missing some real football action, dont neglect Australias cheap and cheerful domestic A-League. The team to watch at the moment is Brisbane. They lie

one from the top of the table as it stands, but the reigning champs only recently ended a record-breaking 36-match unbeaten streak and are dead certs to be in the running come silverware time. This week they host Sydney FC, who are struggling mid-table but are always one of the best supported sides. They boast former Blackburn man Brett Emerton among their ranks. Kickoff, at Suncorp Stadium, is at 6.45pm. Tix start at just $12, see ticketek.com.auSaturday, January 14

ELVIS FESTIVAL[PARKES]

$20 Elvis may have left the building but

then he went to Parkes. For fi ve full days the NSW town is taken over by the King. Impersonators, tribute acts and fans alike hip swivel their hearts out. There are 150 events including concerts and competitions. Tickets start from $20.

January 11-15 Parkes, NSW parkeselvisfestival.com.au

LANCELIN OCEAN CLASSIC [LANCELIN]FREE The Lancelin Classic

is a hardcore windsurfi ng competition that athletes from all around the world come to participate in. Situated north of Perth, this stunning beach is the perfect place for spectators to enjoy the sunshine and excitement.

January 12-15 Lancelin, WA lancelinoceanclassic.com.au

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between

the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered by Australia Post.

Hear them RoarEDITORIAL Editor Andrew WestbrookStaff writer Alex HarmonIntern Leigh LivingstoneContributors Gillian McVeigh | Rosalind Scutt | Maria Roeckmann

DESIGN AND PRODUCTIONDesign and production manager Lisa Ferron

SALES Sales manager Tom WheelerAccount manager Justin Steinlauf

MARKETING & EVENTS Associate publisher Denise JinksMarketing assistants Lea Pahne

DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland

TNT MULTIMEDIA LTDCEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Australia general manager Vicky Harris

PUBLISHER TNT Multimedia LimitedPRINTED BY Rural PressNEWS AAP PICTURES Getty Images | Thinkstock | AAP | TNT Images | Tourism Australia | Tourism Victoria | Tourism New South Wales | Tourism NT | Tourism Queensland | Tourism Tasmania | South Australia Tourism | Tourism Western Australia | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism FijiTNT Magazine, 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 tntdownunder.comGeneral enquiries Phone 02 8332 7500 Fax 02 9690 1314Email enquiries@tntdownunder.com

SALES ENQUIRIES

PHONE 02 8332 7511EMAIL tom@tntdownunder.comWHERE TO GET TNT

SEE tntdownunder.com/magazine-location.html for pick-up points

like us on facebook/tntdownunder

ILLAWARRA FOLK FESTIVAL [BULLI]

$50 During this festival the Bulli

Showground, by Wollongong, becomes a musical epicentre of culture from around the world. Featured Folk, Celtic, Bluegrass and Gypsy acts will perform over the four days of entertainment. Day passes start from $50.

January 12-15 Bulli Showground, NSW Illawarrafolkfestival.com.au

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s#AMPERSFROMPERDAY!53 s#AMPERSFROMPERDAY.:

#!-0%26!.#!2-!$.%33!$!9!,,/6%2!5342!,)!!.$.:

Most with Fuel allowance or free ferry crossings included. Go to www.standbyrelocs.com to view deals each day. Or call us to go on a waiting list - NEW DEALS EVERYDAY!

-/

FROM

ADAY

standbywrkfile_658.indd 1 1/12/11 9:08:41 AM

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM8

On a continent the size of the USA (without Alaska anyway), Oz has the population of Manhattan Island and is one of the least tarmac-ed countries in the world. Plus, its really bloody beautiful.

So, to really make the most of it, you need to get off the beaten track, escape the cities and stay out bush every now and then. And besides, youll probably fi nd that some of your best nights Down Under are those

spent telling stories and sculling beers around the campfi re before bedding down beneath the Milky Way. Yes, even better than The Woolshed... And thats even before you consider that in many national parks, the experience will most likely set you back less than a measly $10, if anything at all.

One Aussie tradition well worth adopting is sleeping in a swag, which basically means ditching the tent and sleeping outside in a sort of super-

sleeping bag, made of thick canvas to protect you from the elements and with a built-in mattress to soften the sun-baked ground. Drifting off with the sight of a million stars to ease you into your dreams is certainly hard to beat. Just try not to think about the creatures...

Anyway, to help you get out there and enjoy it all, heres a quick peek, in no particular order, at some of our favourite Australian camping experiences.

Camp classicsCheap, cheerful and adventurous, camping in Australias great outdoors is a superb way to experience the country. Heres some of the best places to erect your canvas Down Under...

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TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 9

DUNDUBARA CAMPSITE

Where is it? Fraser Island, Queensland.Whats the fuss about? World Heritage-listed Fraser Island is the worlds largest sand island. A pleasure island for 4WDers, the local wildlife here would have Darwin quivering like a dingo at an underage beauty pageant. It also has some amazing camp spots. Canvas erecting is either done in established sites, like Dundubara, or anywhere beach camping is signposted. Dundubara is relatively basic camping, but right on the beach on the east coast. The most popular way to appreciate Fraser is by 4WD, though you can stay longer (most trips last three days max) and for cheaper by walking round the central part. Take care when setting up camp as travellers have been injured by sleeping too close to the 4WD track. The details: Fraser Island lies at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Brisbane. Head to epa.qld.gov.au for more info about this and other camping spots in Queensland.

WINEGLASS BAY

Where is it? Freycinet National Park, Tasmania.Whats the fuss about? This is possibly our favourite camping spot in the whole world. Hiking up the peak of Mt Amos, you can take in spectacular views of Coles Bay and Wineglass Bay. Walk down and along a beach that looks like its been stolen from the Caribbean and nip into the trees at the end for a wonderful little spot, where wallabies will come and gently pester you while dolphins splash about in the water. The sites are basic, with toilets but no showers, but its a small price to pay.The details: Freycinet National Park is roughly half-way down the east coast, 195km from Hobart (about three hours drive). Visit parks.tas.gov.au for more info on camping in Tasmania.

Wake up next to our fave Aussie beach Wineglass Bay

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Swag-tastic

Photos: Thinkstock, Tourism W

A, SATC, TQ, Tourism Victoria, Tourism

NT, Tourism

Tasmania

THE PINES CAMPGROUND

Where is it? Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park, Victoria.Whats the fuss about? Like Uluru, Mount Arapiles rises out of a plain resolutely, if not quite as spectacularly. And Mount Arapiles is one of the fi nest rock climbing destinations in the world. People take time out from Chamonix to come hang out at the Pines and do some sport climbing. With good toilets nearby, plenty of parking (the campground is tents only though, with a soft bed of pine needles) and world class rock climbing, the place has an amazing vibe over the summer. Some people move into the campground for months at a time just to climb for the season. Guitars, bandanas, woodfi res and cool bottles of wine are de rigueur here. Camping fees apply, just pay the ranger when you get there.The details: Mount Arapiles is 320km north-west of Melbourne via the Western Highway and Natimuk. Check out parkweb.vic.gov.au for more info.

Photos: Thinkstock, Tourism W

A, SATC, TQ, Tourism Victoria, Tourism

NT, Tourism

Tasmania TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 11

GAGUDJU LODGE COOINDA

Where is it? Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory.Whats the fuss about? World Heritage-listed Kakadu needs no introduction. Yellow Water is nestled in the heart of the park, and is a great place to explore further afi eld. Gagudju Lodge Cooinda provides a sanctuary where you can camp out in one of 80 powered campsites, or 300 unpowered sites. And if sweating through your third night under canvas doesnt sound like your idea of fun, there are 48 air-conditioned rooms and a swimming pool.The details: The lodge is three hours south-east of Darwin via the Stuart Highway. More info on Gagudju Lodge Cooinda at gagudjulodgecooinda.com.au or by calling 1800 500 401.

COCKATOO ISLAND

Where is it? Sydney Harbour, New South Wales.Whats the fuss about? Did you know you can actually camp inside Sydney Harbour (and were not talking James Bond style boat-tents here)? Cockatoo Island is a whole eight minutes by ferry from Circular Quay. There you can pitch your tent under the stars and enjoy the best thing Sydney has to offer a view of the harbour (albeit for $45, info at harbourtrust.gov.au). If youre after something a little more hardcore, go bush in the rugged terrain of Marramarra National Park (environment.nsw.gov.au). Its on the junction of Hawkesbury River and Berowra Creek, on the northern outskirts of Sydney. If youve got a campervan and are sick of getting stuck in rush-hour traffi c, have a think about pitching up at the citys legendary but uncrowded northern beaches, such as Narrabeen (sydneylakeside.com.au).The details: Head to environment.nsw.gov.au for the info.

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Hanging out in Mt Arapiles

Who needs showers when youve got Kakadus ancient waterholes

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM12

SHARK BAY CAMPGROUNDS

Where is it? Shark Bay, Western Australia.Whats the fuss about? Shark Bay is yet another World Heritage area. Renowned for Monkey Mia, it is one of the most undisturbed coastlines in the world. Where else can you hand feed dolphins, or nip up to the Ningaloo Reef and dive with whale sharks? There are four designated camping areas in the Shire of Shark Bay, all with 2WD access. Located 18-36km from Denham, the campsites all offer beach-style camping, fi shing, and of course, snorkelling. Permission must be obtained from the Shire, or you can incur a huge fi ne.The details: Shark Bay is located 900km north of Perth and 155km off the North West Coastal Highway. For info, see sharkbayvisit.com or call 08 9948 1590.

Soaring above the Flinders

Whats that Flipper? You want a tuna sandwich? And a Coke?

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 13

SEAL ROCKS

Where is it? Myall Lakes National Park, New South Wales.Whats the fuss about? A great spot for wildlife enthusiasts. You can catch migrating whales gliding up or down the coast, as well as frolicking dolphins, while a school of grey nurse sharks (dont panic theyre friendly) lives nearby. So bring your snorkels. The beach at the tiny Seal Rocks township is a proper treat, with crystal clear waters lapping the golden sands between two rocky headlands. There are a series of campsites, some near the beach and others dotted about the park, often near warm, tranquil shallow lakes ideal for a bit of fi shing, kayaking or simply watching the sun sink, coldie in hand. Most sites have toilets and drinking water and some allow fi res (but check for fi re bans).The details: The small town of Bulahdelah, 40km north of Port Stephens, is the parks gateway and a good spot for last minute supplies. For info, visit greatlakes.org.au or call 02 6554 8799.

WILPENA POUND CAMPGROUND

Where is it? Flinders Ranges National Park, South Australia.Whats the fuss about? The Flinders Ranges National Park has some of Australias most rugged scenery, taking in moonscapes and lush oases with equal ease. It is literally riddled with brutal offroad tracks that can turn into lentil soup after the most trivial rain, and therefore, is a magnet for offroaders. Wilpena Campground isnt exactly roughing it though. It has full facilities with powered sites (for those of you doing the campervan thing), toilets and showers, even a bar.The details: Wilpena Pound Resort is about 450km north of Adelaide via the Sturt Highway. Bookings are not necessary for basic camping. For powered sites or any enquiries, visit wilpenapound.com.au/campground or drop them a line on 08 8648 0048.

NEXT WEEK

Best of the west: What not to miss on the west coast

SOCIALSCENE follow us on @tnt_downunder

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM14

SOCIALSCENE follow us on @tnt_downunder

THE GIRL WITH THE DRAGON TATTOOFILM review by Andrew Westbrook

STARRING: Daniel Craig, Rooney Mara, Stellan Skargrd | CERT: MA | 158mins | Out Jan 12

Cards on the table. Im an unashamed fanboy of Stieg Larsons Millenium series of books, and thoroughly enjoyed the Swedish/Danish fi lm adaptations, meaning that I was both annoyed and nervous when I fi rst heard that Hollywood was also giving them a go so soon. However, despite half-expecting to hate it, I found myself leaving the cinema once again enthralled by the story and eager to see the next installment.

With director David Fincher (Social Network) at the helm, this new adaptation always promised to be slicker and more visually stylish than the originals, which were essentially TV movies, and it delivers from the very fi rst second, with a Bond-esque intro sequence. Other than that, Fincher, along with Craig as the discredited investigative journalist Blomkvist and Mara as the abused young hacker Lisbeth Salander stick incredibly close to what has come before, producing a taut detective thriller about trying to fi nd a ruthless rapist and killer of women amongst a rich industrialist family on a remote Swedish island.

However, that is the fi lms biggest problem. While the leads are both impressive, incuding Craig, who Id originally considered a bad casting decision, and the story is as engrossing and tough to watch as ever, it does at times simply feel like little more than a better looking version of a fi lm that only came out two years ago.

GOOD FOR: Seeing the Hollywood big guns actually succeed in retelling an already good fi lm

HUGOFILM

STARRING: Asa Butterfi eld, Sacha Baron Cohen, Jude Law | CTC | 126mins | Out Jan 12

Widely cited as being one of the fi lms of the last year, a strong Oscar contender and arguably the the most memorable 3D movie made to date, Martin Scorseses latest outing is set in 1930s Paris, and follows an orphan who lives within the walls of a railway station. Full of enchanting touches and performances, Hugo has sorrow, joy and magical design aplenty, especially when the story veers towards the early days of cinema, a subject clearly close to Scorseses heart.

SOCIALSCENElike us on facebook/tntdownunder

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 15

SOCIALSCENElike us on facebook/tntdownunder

ST GEORGES OPENAIR CINEMAFILM FESTIVAL

An iconic Sydney experience, this is the chance to catch new fi lms on a giant screen mounted on an infl atable device fl oating in the harbour, with the Opera House as a backdrop. Tix sold out well in advance, but theres always a few available on the night, from 6.30pm.

Jan 11-Feb 18, Mrs Macquaries Point. $35.

stgeorgeopenair.com.au

THE ABERCROMBIEHOTELPUB

This uni joint has recently undergone a Scottish makeover. It now has tartan seating, munchie feeds for the stoners and mind-altering artwork. Try the deep-fried Gaytime and wash it down with some Rave Juice, served in a bag with a glow stick. Giddyup!

Cnr of Abercrombie St & Broadway, Sydney

HARRY POTTER EXHIBITIONEXHIBITION

The story of the scarred one may be over, but fans can continue the magic by dropping into the Powerhouse Museum. Exclusive artefacts from the fi lms can be viewed in elaborate set recreations, hands-on prop displays.

Until Mar 18. Darling Harbour. $32. harrypotterexhibition.com

CSI EXPERIENCEEXHIBITION

The ever-expanding popular TV franchise CSI has now brought its interactive exhibition to the Gold Coast. For $22.50, you get to pick through a crime scene, Gil Grissom style, and solve the puzzle using the forensic evidence you fi nd at the scene. You even get your very own CSI photo ID card!

Until Feb 29, The Piazza, Surfers Paradise. csisurfersparadise.com

THE DESCENDANTSFILM

Already nominated for fi ve Golden Globe awards (and the fi ve big ones at that), George Clooneys latest vehicle is a tragi-comedy from the mind of Sideways creator Alex Payne. It follows an indifferent family man forced to re-evaluate his life following the sudden death of his wife in an accident, with a lush Hawaii as the scenic backdrop.Out Jan 12

BIG DAY OUT

After months of build-up, this giant Aussie festival is now just around the corner, with the lineup this year being as impressive as ever, including the likes of Kanye West (not playing all cities), Noel Gallagher, Kasabian, My Chemical Romance and many more. The one-day extravaganza visits Sydney, Melbourne, Gold Coast, Adelaide, Perth and Auckland, starting on Australia Day, with most of the top acts playing sideshows in some of the cities as they go.

January 20 February 5. From $175.80

bigdayout.com

DONTMISS!

Celebrating its twentieth year, Adelaides four-day world music spectacular is one of the bigger reasons why South Australia is nicknamed the festival state. And with it kicking off in early March, we thought wed hook up with the organisers to offer one of you a four-day pass, for not just you but also three of your mates. Sweet! Visit tntdownunder.com/competitions.html

WINWOMADELAIDE TIX

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CHATROOM follow us on @tnt_downunder

Adam Buxton One half of genius comedy duo Adam and Joe, Buxton is bringing his hugely successful solo show Down Under for a series of dates as part of Sydney FestivalINTERVIEW ANDREW WESTBROOK

So, tell us about your show BUG.Well, we basically show music videos and I pop around in between. Its like going round to someones house and youre supposed to be having dinner and while dinners cooking, your host opens up his laptop and says, ahh, youve got to look at this. So its a mixture of jaw-dropping, oh my God stuff and, wow thats amazing and inspiring stuff, and then a bit of my stuff as well. We show a selection of the latest leftfi eld, low budget, weird music videos.

Youve long been a YouTube fan, posting your own stuff. Whats the appeal?Its amazingly exciting just to do what you want and have it seen by people without anyone else interfering or any TV commissioning process. Sometimes its nice to work with other people and have a budget and get paid and to have people to say, thats not very good, do it again. But other times its really very nice to not have that to worry about and to think of a stupid idea one morning and have it up online that evening with potentially millions of people watching it.

Do you get obsessive about comments?Ha, well, in the past it was sort of ruining my life! I got into a couple of spats online with people saying unkind stuff about my work,

which is par for the course. However, the fi rst time you read a really vicious comment, it really knocks you for six. But after a while you just toughen up. The main thing for me was starting to incorporate the comments into my show, so thats been quite a nice cathartic experience.

What makes a good comment?Im generally looking for the ones where people have written little essays. As soon as people start writing loads you think, ah, here we go. I just love the idea that people have to share their theses on YouTube. Not only are they setting themselves up as genius critics, but theyre genius critics to a whole audience of people who generally dont give much of a shit about what they have to say.

Youre a massive David Bowie fan. Have you got to meet him yet? I think the closest we ever got to him, and it was very tantalising, was when Jonathan Ross took me and Joe to see Bowie playing at the BBC. We were really excited, thinking Jonathan would introduce us to him afterwards and stuff, but when we went along, this must have been around 2000 or 2001, Jonathan had also brought along a new friend of his called Ricky Gervais. The Offi ce had just come out and Bowie had

picked up on it, so Bowie was all over Ricky and Ricky was all over Bowie as well. We didnt get a look in. We were in the same corridor for about fi ve minutes but all we did was stand by and watch Bowie and Gervais have a mutual gush fest.

And then he was in Extras?Yes, absolutely! They became pals. Its pretty galling I have to say to watch it... Nooo, dont go off with Ricky Gervais, Im the man you should be loving. Ah man, it was hard. One day, maybe. Ive met his son, whos fi lms I love.

Theres still hope...I think it would be very weird if I did meet him. Id go to pieces. I would literally cry like one of those girls at Beatles concerts. I just love him.

I noticed you got a thanks in the credits for Shaun of the Dead and Paul. How come?Ive no idea why I was thanked for Shaun of the Dead, I had nothing to do with it. I was in Hot Fuzz. I mean, were friends. Oh wait, I think I looked at the script. And we did a read through for Paul. But I didnt know theyd done that, thats nice of them.

With your comedy partner Joe Cornish having just written the Tintin fi lm, do you take the piss out of him for hanging out with Spielberg nowadays? Oh, I wouldnt dare. But yeah, its amazing, riding around London on my bike and having buses pull up next to me with giant Tintin posters on and with Joes name almost as big as Spielbergs. Its incredible. Im delighted for him. We used to fantasise about being in the fi lm world when we were at school and I very much hope I make some sort of fi lm one day myself. But yeah man, its what hes always wanted to do so its amazing that its happening for him.

Its a BUGs life

Adam Buxton presents BUG: The Evolution of Music Video is on at the Everest Theatre in the Seymour Centre (Jan 26-29). Tix cost $30.

sydneyfestival.org.au/bug

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20 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

If youre after a real Australianadventure, then theres one optionthat trumps all others hitting the open road with your own wheels.With its endless stretches of the hardstuff and countless deserted beachesjust waiting to be discovered, the land Down Under is a country best explored with the freedom to go where youwant, when you want.

Therefore, TNT has teamed up with TJUCY Rentals, plus some of our bestest eastcoast buddies, to help a couple of you, yes you, our dear beloved readers, do just that for free. Not only will your campervan be sorted, plus freebie trips to the top three destinations on the east coast, but welleven refi ll your backpack with some sweetnew clothes. Not too shabby eh?

THIS PRIZE INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING:JUCY CAMPERVAN: Two-week rentalof a Grande Campa. NEW THREADS:A $1,000 wardrobe from Rush Surf.GREAT BARRIER REEF: A cruise and reef experience, for two people, with CairnsPremier Reef Tours. WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS:A two-day/two-night sailing trip, for twopeople, with Tongarra Sailing Adventures.FRASER ISLAND: A three-day/two-nightguided self-drive tour, for two people, with Nomads Fraser Island Tours.

Competition closes midnight AEST

Tuesday 31st January, 2012.

Log on to tntdownunder.com for

further details and to enter.

follow us on @tntdownunder

like us on facebook/tntdownunder

HOW TO ENTERGo to tntdownunder.com and click on the WIN page. See webpage for terms and conditions. Winners will be selected at random.

WIN

aussie

summer

roadtrip

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RIHANNAS RESOLUTION

[USA]Rihanna has reportedly told friends that her New Years resolution is to fi nd a man.

If her songs are anything to go by the pop singer wants to fi nd a Rude Boy that loves to lie, who maybe likes a little S&M and wont Break It Off.

That kind of charmer may be a little tough to deliver when she paints herself as an Unfaithful, Good Girl Gone Bad that cant remember her own name (na, na Whats My Name?).

Her dress sense might help. I dont think Ive ever seen a picture of the crayon-red haired one fully dressed. See-through dresses and bondage outfi ts seem to be the clothing of choice. Disturbia indeed!

Still, a man that can make her feel like the Only Girl (In The World) has got to be better than her beat em and leave em ex, Chris Brown.

PATHETIC PUNKD [USA]Miley Cyrus and Kelly Osbourne have played a practical joke on Khloe Kardashian for the new Punkd season.

The girls are having dinner at Casa Cyrus when a delivery driver uses the bathroom and gets his junk stuck in his trouser zipper.

Ashton Kutcher got three of the most annoying celebrities together for a prank and the best thing he could come up with was trapped testicles? Oh my, how positively embarrassing!

Why not get their fame-hungry parents in there too putting Billy Ray, Ozzie and that plastic wannabe Barbie Jenna in a room to discuss who can sell their childs soul faster would make much better television.

VALANCE CRACKS A RIB

[THE MALDIVES]Holly Valance, who couldnt crack the music industry to save her life, managed to crack a rib while playing volleyball after boozing in the Maldives.

Valance is most famous as Flick from Neighbours, for dating rich guys and having a very short lived singing career.

Her biggest video clip had her gyrating about looking naked while saying Kiss Kiss a few times. I forget what the song was called.

The damaged one took to Twitter to explain her injury.

Dont play Cardinal Puff then beach volleyball. Votarol is once

again my best friend.Cardinal Puff is a round-the-

table drinking game that gets more complicated the more you drink. Of course.

A cracked rib must be bloody painful, but its impossible to feel too sorry for the poor girl, after all, this happened while on holidays with her rich tycoon boyfriend in one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Couldnt she just pass out like a normal person?

Me. Bitter? No.

Hell be back: Yes, despite getting away with banging the maid (and who knows who else) and somehow getting away with even bringing the lovechild on family holidays for years, it now seems that his deeply religious wife Pam Shriver might be about to take Arnie back. Both the pair have been photographed wearing their wedding rings again.

Rihanna never liked the bashful look

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Photos: Getty Im

ages

@JessicaSimpson New goal: look like @JessicaAlba after baby. Job well done lady!

@AlanCarr Just made myself hot chocolate, slipped on my pajamas and popped a hot water bottle in my bed - please refrain from touching yourselves

@SamanthaRonson Thank you moms for bringing your crying babies to the DMV with you. All of us are so pleased

@rickygervais If the Rapture doesnt happen today dont leap to the rational conclusion that its all made up illogical bullshit. Just pick another date

@MrsSOsbourne Ozzys dog, Rocky, is recovering from a knee operation. Ozzy is very jealous because Rocky is on painkillers every 4 hours

@SethMacfarlane Your favourite team has a big game today. Come watch it on a faraway TV with the sound off -- Sports Bars

@CharlieSheen Born small... now huge... winning (unemployed winner)

TWEETS OF THE WEEK

QUOTE OF THE WEEK

TOPLESS TEAM TRYOUTS [USA]Dennis Rodman is allegedly creating a topless womens basketball team to play a charity match against an established topless team.

You remember this guy, the cross dressing nutbag ex-basketball player from the nineties that was briefl y married to Carmen Electra?

Well, he is holding tryouts amongst exotic dancers in New York because he says I dont know too many men that dont like a good-looking woman running up and down the basketball court.

Which leaves me wondering, has he ever actually watched a womens basketball game?

If you believe it, this is all for charity, but I dont see the appeal of donating cash to watch strippers bounce and sweat for hours on a court... oh wait.

ELTON WANTS JUSTIN[USA]

Elton John wants Justin Timberlake to star in a movie that is going to be made about his life.

The biopic is still in the works, but top of the Rocket Mans wishlist to play him is The Trousersnake.

Eltons hopes are too high. Firstly, he envisions the movie to be like Moulin Rouge and even tried to get Baz Lurhmann to direct it. Secondly, Timberlake has been acting lately, and most people are a fan, but this a bit of a stretch even for him.

Someone like William Shatner or that cranky Muppet that insults people all the time might be more accurate. Or how about Bono? They both like to wear quirky glasses and think pretty highly of themselves.

QUITS FOR PERRY AND BRAND [USA]

It comes as no surprise, hell, most of us probably had money on it, but Katy Perry and Russell Brand are divorcing.

After only 14 months of marriage, Brand fi led for divorce in Los Angeles just before the New Year, citing irreconcilable differences.

Just once I would like to see a less vague reason listed on celebrity divorce papers. How about she kissed a girl and liked it or he never brushed his hair or bathed?

The offi cial statement Brand released was even less believable. Something about well always remain friends, blah blah. We all know how this one goes, theyll be papped smooching other people and suddenly there will be tell-all exposes about how horrible the marriage was. Yawn.

Please stop discussing my ovaries!

LeAnne Rimes doesnt like people chatting about her internal organs... or whether shes trying for a baby

D-Rod admiring his teams rebound skills

Over and out

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OBAMAS REPLACEMENT?

[USA]Mitt Romney has claimed fi rst blood in the long, long road to decide which Republican will face Barack Obama in Novembers Presidential Election.

The Ex-Massachusetts governor secured the Iowa primary, beating right-winger Rick Santorum by just eight votes. The party will make its fi nal choice in August.

MORETON ISLAND FIRE [AUSTRALIA]

Firefi ghters fear a bushfi re currently raging on Queenslands Moreton Island, just north of Brisbane, could go on burning for weeks.

The blaze began last Wednesday when a campsite gas bottle exploded. Up to 80 per cent of the worlds third largest sand island (after Fraser and Stradbroke) could be burnt to the ground as a result.

Amount in pounds fetched by a royal Russian brooch initially bought for 20 by a Hampshire woman

Yachting magazines which caused a ceiling to collapse, trapping a 77-year-old Essex man for 11 hours

Kilometres of a round trip made by a London cabbie to Madrid and back to pick up a customers pet labrador

THIS WEEKIN NUMBERS

32,000

7,000

Romney will be hoping for a bigger margin next time

28 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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OUT OF THE BUSH[AUSTRALIA]

A 56-year-old woman has beenrescued after walking 20km over two nights after her car broke down in the blistering heat of the remote Victorian outback.

The traveller, from South Australia, broke down while driving through the Mallee Sunset Park. Unable to fi x her Ford Transit Van, and with no mobile phone coverage, she set out on foot, walking at night and resting during the 40C heat of the day, until she fi nally got phone reception and called for help.

Sgt Jason Bruhn said she was incredibly self suffi cient.She took four litres of water, an umbrella, a sleeping bag and was on her way, he said. Once taken to hospital she reportedly told staff: So, Ive survived, now just let me go fi x my car.

SPLIT FROM CROATIA TOURISM

[CROATIA] A Croatian tourism offi cial has been fi red for telling a local newspaper that she did not want drunken Aussie and Kiwi tourists travelling to Dubrovnik.

It would be better if they did not come. Dubrovnik does not need drunken Aussie and Kiwi tourists walking naked down the central street, Pave Zupan Ruskovic was quoted as saying to Dubrobacki List.

She was promptly relieved of her duties by the city mayor who stated he would not be renewing her contract due to a lack of tourism diplomacy.

It is believed her comments come from a number of recent reports that Antipodeans are getting into trouble, especially while cliff diving in Croatia.

Last year alone, fi ve Aussie tourists suffered life threatening injuries as a result of falling or diving from the citys World Heritage-listed citys cliffs.

SAFE IN THE SKIES [EARTH]

Last year was the safest on record to fl y, with just one deadly accident for every 1.5 million fl ights, according to a new Ascend report.

The news comes despite the growing number of air passengers, with 2.8 billion travellers on 38 million fl ights throughout 2011. In total there were just 25 lethal accidents throughout the year, killing 497 people. By comparison, 828 people died in 28 accidents in 2010.

ONE DAY IN PARIS [FRANCE]

The Louvre in Paris has been named the worlds most-visited museum for the third year running.

A record 8.8 million people, 66 per cent of whom were from abroad, walked through the doors of the Paris institution, which houses masterpieces like Leonardo da Vincis Mona Lisa.

Londons British Museum was deemed the second most popular, with 5.8 million visitors, followed by New Yorks Metropolitan Museum, with 5.2 million visitors.

RECORD SNAKE[AUSTRALIA]

Everyone puts on a bit of holiday weight around the festive season some more than others.

Australias biggest snake last week tipped the scales at 137kg at her annual weigh in. It took six reptile keepers, at the Australian Reptile Park in Gosford, half an hour to bag the 6.5m potential man-eater Atomic Betty. Tim Faulkner, the parks operations manager, said it was no mean feat getting Betty out of her enclosure.

The scary thing is that she has the ability to crush us, Faulkner said at the park in Gosford, on the NSW Central Coast. Youve got about a second to grab (her head) because as we go down theyve got extremely good vision and she is going to strike.

Betty, who was imported from the US in 2001, usually swallows a goat in about an hour, but it takes up to a week to digest.

She is expected to grow another metre in the next seven years.

The reticulated python is usually found in south-east Asia. The constrictor is non-venomous but is a man-eater and strong enough to swallow a human whole.

Dear oh dear: A lot of reasons have been given for the struggling Australasian tourism industry of late the strong dollar and the economic crisis in Europe for example. But one Kiwi spokeswoman has come up with the supreme leader of excuses for why Queenstown hotel bookings are down apparently South Koreans are nervous to travel as they are unsure what the pesky North will do following the death of their Dear Leader Kim Jong Il at the end of last year.

When roadtrips go wrong

29TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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ARSENAL MADE TO WAIT FOR HENRY

Thierry Henrys return to Arsenal on a two-month loan deal has run into trouble, due to the New York Red Bulls delaying in submitting the paperwork.

Arsene Wenger had hoped the clubs record goal scorer would already be back in north London, however the delay has meant Henry, 34, could not be registered in time and will now be in doubt for Mondays FA Cup match against Leeds.

The date when Henry returns to America has proved the issue, with New York wanting the Frenchman back for a February 20 training camp, while Arsenal want him to stay for the February 26 derby against Tottenham.

CHELSEA EYE UP NEW DROGBA

Andre Villas-Boas has been taking a keen interest in Napolis 35m-rated striker Edinson Cavani, potentially lining up the 24-year-old Uruguayan as a long-term replacement for the expected departure of Didier Drogba.

Representatives of Cavani, who will face Chelsea in the Champions League next month, have been sounding out Premier League clubs for a potential summer move.

Drogba, who is out of contract in the summer, has been linked with numerous clubs in Russia and the Far East, although Aston Villa are also thought to be interested in the 33-year-old.

Chelsea have also initiated talks with 16m Marseille full back Cesar Azpilicueta

Mums the word: Its fair to say that Luis Suarez probably hasnt been enjoying life of late, what with receiving an eight-match ban for racist behaviour towards Man United defender Patrice Evra. Now, to top it off, his mum Sandra has spoken out in defence of him. She said: Hes no racist. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Va va... oh

and are believed to be keen on Sao Paulos midfi elder Lucas Moura, 19.

BUT FRANK LAMPARD INSISTS HES AS

GOOD AS NEWFrank Lampard, however, has given an interview stressing that he wants to stay at Chelsea and warning his club that they shouldnt be too hasty to sell off all the senior players.

Lampard himself, as well as Drogba, Alex, Florent Malouda and captain John Terry have regularly been linked with moves away from London, since Villas-Boas became manager and placed a new emphasis on transforming the aging side.

Lampard, who has started just two of the last seven matches, said: We need our big players. The spine of the team is what made us what we are. Its important.

BALOTELLI BANNEDThe landlord of volatile Italian star

Mario Balotelli has banned the Man City striker from returning to his 3m mansion until he pays up for all the damage he has caused.

Balotelli, 21, had only been living in the house for a month after causing serious damage to his previous fl at, and earning a police caution at the same time, by setting off 1,500 worth of fi reworks inside.

Balotelli is disputing the bill and so is unable to return home.

PODOLSKI SNUBGerman striker Lukas Podolski is

thought to have ruled out a move to Arsenal or Liverpool in January.

Sources claim the prolifi c Polish-born Cologne star believes it would damage his chances of playing at Euro 2012.

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM30

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WEEKLY WINNERTHE AMAZING RACE: Gareth Patterson 31, from UK

GARETH SAYS: Dog beats man: Early morning joggers on Four Mile Beach, in Queenslands Port Douglas.

WINNER

HOT TIPS: Texture

HOW IT WORKS Texture introduces the illusion of a tactile quality. Everything has a texture even if it is the absence of it. A smooth surface is just as tactile as a rough piece of wood. The trick is using that texture in a photo to its full potential to add depth to your composition.Textures are usually best lit from the side.

For gentle textures like feathers or fur a soft, diffused light is good while hard textures like stone look better in a hard light.

Colour can sometimes interfere with our impression of texture, which is why black and white can be so alluring when texture is a major infl uence in a photo.

Photographing texture alone gives rise to great abstracts and surprising images of everyday scenes and objects.

THE MONTHLY WINNER GETS THREE DAYS CAR HIRE FROM TRAVELLERS AUTOBARN WINPhotos are judged by ROUGH GUIDES senior photo editor Mark Thomas each month. Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description, to: travel@tntdownunder.com

Weekly winner Gareth wins a free nights stay at the award-winning Sydney Central YHA (yha.com.au). The monthly winner gets three days car hire from Travellers Auto Barn. The runner-up wins a Rough Guides book of their choice sent to an Oz or NZ address. roughguides.com

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 31

Terms and conditions: Discount valid for bookings on the Zephyr pass only. Discounted rates apply to standard brochured rates on specied passes only. Bookings must be made between 8 Dec 2011-11 Jan 2012. Standard 12 month travel validity applies. Offer not valid in conjunction with any other offer excluding the Day Trip 5% discount. Kiwi Experience reserves the right to withdraw this offer at anytime and without notice. Prices are in Australian dollars. Standard Kiwi Experience travel and booking terms and conditions apply. KX968-12/11-TNTAUD

www.kiwiexperience.com

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AU$419ZEPHYR

TRAVELTIPS like us on facebook/tntdownunder

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Each month our fave interview WINS a four-day Conservation Volunteers Australia experience. Email: travel@tntdownunder.com.

WINCONSERVATION VOLUNTEERS AUSTRALIA EXPERIENCE

ON THE ROAD WITH

LOKTING CHAN22, HONG KONG

WHAT DID YOU DO TODAY?I just got an internship in Sydney so Im not normally used to waking up before 9am during weekdays. After working I am going to Market City with my fl atmates to get fresh ingredients for dinner. WHAT MADE YOU COME TO OZ? After fi nishing my degree, I decided to take a gap year and Oz was my fi rst choice. Lovely weather, nice beaches and defi nitely a good place to unwind.

MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE?The first time I saw koalas at the Wildlife Park, wondering how they can sleep their whole life in the trees.

WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST? Traditional home cooked food and family.

CRAZIEST EXPERIENCE?Drinking countless bottles of wine at home as if there was water inside.

ANY TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS?Dont think too much and just do it. You will be surprised, getting around Oz is not as difficult as you think.

Q Weve just experienced our fi rst Christmas not covered in snow, but worked through the festive season and are now looking to escape the city for some relaxation. Can you recommend a cheap getaway? Simon Blanche, UK

A The Queensland coast is dotted with loads of islands that provide the perfect getaway from the stresses and rigours of working life. While many are populated with expensive and charmless resorts, in turn populated by wealthy and charmless people, a number of chilled-out and cheap retreats can still be found. One that fi ts the bill is Magnetic Island, just off the coast from Townsville. A greener contrast from that dusty city you wont fi nd Maggie is a lush, laidback tropical paradise that has managed so far to keep developers at bay. Half the island is a national park, home to koalas and wallabies and some fantastic bird life, while a few sheltered coves provide the perfect setting for a late night dip (beware of stingers!) Theres plenty to do if you look for it (like the nearby, amazing Yongala

wreck dive). Alternatively, its the perfect place to kick back and do nothing. While it has not much else besides beaches and bush, thats enough to keep you occupied until both mind and body is fully recuperated.

Q Im a surfer heading over to WA. Where is the best place to chill and

catch some waves? Quinn Peters, USA

A Head to Yallingup. Its located at the northern part of the Margaret River region in Western Australia and is home to some of the best beaches for surfi ng. Beaches Three Bears, Yallingup, Smiths and Injidup are all world-renowned for serving up some of the best breaks in Australia. Not only that but Yallingup Beach has safe swimming lagoons to chill out in. You can even watch your mates crash and burn in the surf from the caravan park BBQ area which overlooks the ocean. Its not hard to discover why the Yallingup name in the local Aboriginal language means Place of Love, because youll be in love with it when you leave. Magic.

Catching some of Margaret Rivers legendary waves

TRAVELTALK

CHECKING INAQUARIUS BACK-PACKERSOVERVIEW Just a two minute walk from the famous main beach at Byron Bay. Providing a free meal every night, rooftop terrace and pool, its a great hostel to relax or meet people and every night

there is something happening at the Aquarius bar. ROOMS Most dorms are two-storey and all have en suite. Female dorms available too. BILL PLEASE A bed in a mixed dorm from $28/night.

16 Lawson St, Byron Bay, NSW aquarius-backpackers.com.au

YOU ASKED FOR IT...WE ANSWER YOUR TRAVEL QUESTIONS

XXXXXX TOP FIVElike us on facebook/tnt downunder TRAVELLERSTALEfollow us on @tnt_downunder

Get freakin in Airlie x x x !awesome in Airlie Beach Whitsundays - www.awesomeoz.com

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 33

N

Working in a WA mining town, the US-born KELLI MUTCHLER found herself a long way from home. And style...

Youll notice the ants fi rst, unable to walk without disturbing a swarm. Youll notice the mullets second, for the same reason.

Western Australian mining towns, which offer a backpacker some of the highest wages in the country, also boast the largest deposits of iron ore, six-legged insects, and horrible haircuts. Its the kind of place where every head swivels when you enter a bar, because, without a beard, Southern Cross tattoo or neon work suit, you stand out like a cow on the highway.

Most of the miners work on a fl y-in, fl y-out schedule from Perth. With too many changing faces, I quickly learned to address everyone by adding the typical Aussie azza to the end of names. If that failed, theyd always respond to a hearty Mate!

I, in turn, became The New Backpacker or Darlin. They used the fi rst name when sober, and the second name when theyd had too many JDs.

Most of my shifts were spent behind a bar: fi rst in Paraburdoo (pop. 2,000), then in Newman (so big it had a

Subway). Because alternative nightlife options were mostly non-existent, I, the person pouring the pint, should have held a position of power. But, if I grabbed a local anything other than their usual drink, their respect was gone. One particularly cantankerous customer, Angus, refused to pick up his Fosters if I faced the can in the wrong direction. He could pout and push it away, but he couldnt use his fi ngers to turn it around.

Do you want me to spill it all over myself? hed moan. After that comment, I sure did.

But I kept my mouth shut most of the time, especially at the end of a rowdy Friday night, because the mining crewmen paid with a pile of bills and coins, tapping their pile to indicate where I should take the change from, a fi ght could break out over a missing $10. Within minutes, best friends would be swinging punches like sworn enemies.

Within a week of starting my job in Paraburdoo, I quit wearing makeup. Why lather on foundation, when no one else made an effort in the dry, dirty heat? Most of the men (and a few brave women) sauntered into the bar

for a post-shift pint, still in their work boots and a layer of orange silt. For a while I thought they were simply very tanned from the 40C-plus sun.

The only accessories visible were inked on: most of the men ran a list of childrens names on one shoulder, and an Australia fl ag or native animal on the other. Ex-girlfriends names were guiltily covered up by long sleeves.

Rarely did I understand what anyone said; nodding and smiling was the only response to requests that contained more slang than a modern dictionary. Not only do Western Aussies abbreviate most words even the shortest ones but they dont breath between them, either. Bundyncola, mate, someone would ask, andtoperrightup! If I had the gumption to question this, I was shot with an amused glare. Bloodyyanks, dontyespeakEnglish? Youll soon hear that bottles, coolers, pitchers and pints have turned into stubbies, eskies, jugs and tall ones and real men drink Emu Bitter and Tooheys Old. Noneathatcheapissforme, mate!

Big, friendly, and loud, the people in Western Australia are a breed of their own. And serving them gives defi nition to the term diamond in the rough.

But if youre looking for work out West, take this as a warning: bring bug spray, and a pair of scissors.

BOGAN-HAVEN

WRITE TO TNT AND WINSend us your scary, funny or embarrassing travel tale (preferably about Australia or New Zealand) and if published youll win a $300 travel voucher redeemable on Oz Experience passes (ozexperience.com), ATA NT camping trips (adventuretours.com.au) and with Wayward Bus (waywardbus.com.au). Email your stories (700 words max), to travel@tntdownunder.com

The WhitsundaysQUEENSLAND

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM34

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 35

OZTRIP

It felt like we were under there forever. I wanted to burst out laughing, looking at my boyfriend hooked up with all the scuba gear. But I dared not if the breathing apparatus slipped out of my mouth, it would be panic stations. We were about to do our fi rst ever dive and were lingering under the water as we waited for one of our group to get to grips with her equipment and join us in the deep blue sea. As we waited, I got thinking... Is my mask fi lling up with water? Would a shark fi nd me tasty? Agghh, am I still breathing?

As unnatural as it all seems at fi rst, when you glide through the crystal clear waters, like the Little Mermaids long lost twin, you soon feel right at home in the underwater world. Well, maybe its not quite as simple as that, but as you swim deeper and watch all the brightly-coloured little fi shies fl oat by, its not diffi cult to get lost in the awe of it all.

It is amazing to look around and see hundreds of little eyes look back at you as they swim by. At one stage I even forgot I was swimming with other humans at all, stopping to watch the shimmering of blue and yellow scales fl icker passed every inch of my vision. We also saw little turtles and hundreds of varieties of fi sh in every size, shape and colour.

SAIL AWAY

I was cruising through the Whitsunday Islands, by the Great Barrier Reef. In other words, not giving diving a go was simply not an option. And sure enough, once Id got a taster of the life aquatic I was soon donning my snorkle to head back in again. And again. And again. Id fallen in underwater love.

Sailing the Whitsundays hovers pretty close to the top of most backpackers must-do lists. People come for different reasons: some to dive by the Great Barrier Reef, some for Whitehaven Beach and others for the pure luxury of exploring Australias great paradise without having to cook, clean or even lift a fi nger, apart from putting on suntan lotion that is. The trip can be as action-packed or chilled out

Sunday sessionSailing around Queenslands Whitsundays is one of the most sought-after east coast experiences, but does it live up to the hype?

WORDS GILLIAN MCVEIGH

as you want it to be.There were 25 of us on board, all experiencing our fi rst

taste of the Whitsunday Islands and most of us embarking on our fi rst ever sailing trip. Everyone was impressed as we spread out across the boats spacious deck to enjoy fi rst row seats of watching the sun slide down into the horizon, making the sky an orange and red masterpiece.

SILICON VALLEY

At the risk of sounding like a glutton, one of my favourite bits was the food. After travelling the coast for a few weeks, it was great to get quality food, and plenty of it. Being a vegetarian (or vege-terrible as Captain Johnno dubbed me), I didnt know what to expect. However, I couldnt have been more satisfi ed.

Stopping off at one of the worlds top three beaches had to be the highlight of the trip for many. Indeed, having a picture of yourself in a human pyramid on Whitehaven Beach is practically a mandatory addition to any self-respecting backpackers Facebook page.

From the lookout point, Whitehaven Beach looked nice beautiful in fact but it wasnt until we were down there that we could see just why it is justifi ably one of the best beaches on the planet.

The sand is made of grains so fi ne that you can clean your jewellery with it and no matter how hot the temperature is,

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Whitehaven is justifi ably one of the best beaches on the planet

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM36

the sand remains cool thanks to the unexplained amounts of silicon it contains.

Each night after dinner the crew produced a slideshow of all the pics from throughout the day, which made for a hilarious and often embarrassing nights viewing. The shots from the dive sites were particularly entertaining and we all got some great snaps underwater kitted out in our scuba gear.

BACK TO THE BAR

It was then back to Airlie Beach where the fun most defi nitely did not stop. After a much-anticipated long shower (wed had to limit them to just two minutes a time on the boat), we met up again with the group and crew to enjoy free jugs of beer in the bar and spend the night recounting tales of our sailing adventures.

There is a reason why sailing the Whitsunday Islands is high on most travellers agenda. If you go, expect to spend some of the most memorable days of your travelling here. Youre guaranteed to leave with plenty of very happy memories and lots of very cool photographs.

Photos: Tourism Q

ueensland

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 37

The Great Barrier Reef stretches from Rockhampton to Papua New Guinea and is easily accessible from many coastal Queensland towns. Here are some bewildering facts about the reef and its inhabitants with which you can stun (or is that bore to death?) members of the opposite sex in bars... The Great Barrier Reef is the only living thing on Earth that can be seen from the Moon. It is protected by World Heritage status, meeting all four natural-importance criteria. Namely: its a living record of Earths evolution; has ongoing biological processes; natural phenomena and beauty; and is home to threatened species. It is greater in area than the entire UK. At its widest, the reef is 80km wide; at its furthest out it is 300km from the mainland coast, and at its tallest its more than 500m thick. Its oldest parts have been growing for 18 million years. Although the Great Barrier Reef is counted as one reef, it is actually composed of nearly 3,000 separate reefs, clumped close together. Scientists believe coral may hold the cure for AIDS and cancer. Coral reefs cover less than one per cent of the planets surface but support more than 25 per cent of all marine life. The Great Barrier Reef alone is home to 1,500 species of fi sh, 400 species of coral, 4,000 species of molluscs, 500 species of seaweed, 215 species of birds, 16 species of

sea snakes (eek!), six species of sea turtles, plus several migrating whales. Coral is formed by primitive species of polyp; small, lentil-sized, tube-like animals vaguely related to jellyfi sh and sea anenomes. They suck onto a hard surface and wave their tiny ring of stinging tentacles in the water. These capture their prey plankton and pull it down into their stomach. The nutrients it digests pass along to the whole colony. A colony, or lump of coral, can house tens of thousands of individuals. The best time to see coral is at night, because this is when they reach out from their skeletons to feed. Hard corals excrete lime to form a protective surface around their body. When they die, this white skeleton remains and new generations of polyp build upon it, forming reefs. The colour from coral actually comes from tiny algae that co-habits with the polyps in the colony. Different-coloured algae work with different coral species, so corals appear in different colours. Some coral stings can be felt by human skin, so its best not to touch coral. This suits the coral too, as it is very delicate and can be crushed and killed by clumsy limbs. Global warming is perhaps the biggest threat to the worlds reefs. As the water temperature rises, corals self-destruct. Some scientists predict that most of the worlds coral could be dead in 40 years.

THE GREAT BARRIER REEF GET TANKED UP WITH SOME REEF FACTS

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM38

On the doorstep of the magnifi cent Whitsunday Islands lies the legendary Airlie Beach. Air-lie. The name struck me as unearthly, provoking notions of a fabled paradise. What would I fi nd there? Immaculate beaches and infi nite secluded lagoons? Lapping waters of azure blue and billowing shores of platinum sand? Waves breaking rhythmically around Brooke Shields naked thighs like in The Blue Lagoon?

Arriving in downtown Airlie Beach, I was relieved to see a good selection of pubs and cafs. I ordered a beer. Id be on land for just one night and so was determined to experience Airlie Beach before rushing off to explore the Whitsundays.

Which way to the beach? I asked the barman at the pub with the blackboard advertising a weekly Wednesday night wet t-shirt competition. Over there, said the Irishman, pointing to what looked like brown mudfl ats. I surveyed the apparent beach from over the top of my glass. Id seek it out later. For the moment I wanted to soak up the ambience.

LAGOON LAZIN

It was 1pm and about 32C. The sky was an uninterrupted expanse of perfect blue and I was surrounded by a relaxed-looking group in sarongs and boardshorts. Groups of travellers sauntered past with beach bags and guitars and I counted three combies parked along the kerb of the main street. Finishing up, I followed the direction of the Irishmans casual wave. I walked the coast for a good half hour but found no beach.

Need some Airlie nights?Before being whisked off on a trip around the Whitsundays, spend some time getting well-oiled in party town Airlie BeachWORDS ROSALIND SCUTT

As if the gods had noted my disappointment, I walked straight into a lagoon. It wasnt the kind of lagoon Id expect to see Brooke spear-hunting supper in (this was man-made for a start). Nevertheless, it was a lagoon and I whipped off my bits and lay roasting in the tropical Queensland sun.

At the hostel that evening I sat poolside with a group of Americans drinking XXXX and discussing their recent seafaring expedition. They had been here a week and could confi rm the following: sailing the Whitsundays was one of their best-ever life experiences; there is no beach at Airlie Beach and (most importantly to them) Bud is a better beer than XXXX [not much to boast about Ed].

Keen for some beer action, I grabbed a Brit and suggested we head back down to the main drag, where we soon hit a heaving Irish pub. The rest of the evening was a surreal montage of Swedish girls wearing bikinis and witchs hats just another Airlie night apparently.

Air-lie. The name provokes notions of a fabled paradise

NEXT WEEK

Game on: Preview of the Australian Open tennis

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 39

heart of the reef Airlie Beach

QU E E NSL A ND T H E W H I T S U N DAY I S L A N D S are one of the worlds most spectacular aquatic playgrounds & encompass 74 tropical islands rising from pristine turquoise waters, hosting lots of incredible marine and wild life. W H I T E H AV E N B E A C H C A M I R A S A I L I N G A D V E N T U R ESwimming, snorkelling, beautiful beaches and bays, a stuff-yourself-stupid BBQ lunch with unlimited drinks plus exhilarating sailing aboard Camira one of the worlds fastest sailing catamarans an awesome day out on the water! $139*pp SAVE $36G R E AT B A R R I E R R E E F A D V E N T U R E SThe Great Barrier Reef is truly one of the great wonders of the natural world. Cruise aboard Seaflight to Queenslands most innovative reef pontoon featuring a giant waterslide and underwater viewing chamber. Explore the underwater wonderland with diving, snorkelling, semi-sub or glass bottom boat rides. Includes morning / afternoon tea and an all you can eat buffet lunch. $139*pp SAVE $602 DAY S 1 N I G H TB A R E F O O T L A Z Y DA Z EStart your holiday with a choice of either a Whitehaven Beach Camira Sailing Adventure, or a Great Barrier Reef Adventures. Overnight at Long Island. When you dream of an Island experience this is what you dream of ! Spend the day enjoying the facilities at Long Island Resort or find your own secluded bay and take in the great outdoors. Great snorkelling. Ferry/ bus departures back to Airlie available at a variety of times. You may just be tempted to stay another night! From $199*pp (Dorm accommodation)

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A nation dividedKOREA

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM40

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 41

BIGTRIP

Remember: no laughing, no pointing and only your cameras in your hands. Dont even tie a jumper around your waist or they might think that you are hiding a bomb. The tour guides words make me feel like I am out on a military exercise and not on holiday. But the safety precautions come as no surprise as my travel destination is the most heavily-armed border on Earth: the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) that separates North and South Korea.

Or, to be more specifi c, I am about to enter the Joint Security Area (JSA) in the village of Panmunjom. This is the notorious place where enemy soldiers of a divided Korea stand face to face, separated only by a narrow demarcation line. So here I am, in the heart of the DMZ, a 250km land strip secured with countless land mines and tank traps that has separated North and South Korea for almost 60 years. At present, the JSA is the only connection between the two countries. To get there, I have my passport checked twice, undergo several safety briefi ngs and even have to sign a declaration that my safety cannot be guaranteed in the event of a hostile enemy act.

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

I cant help but feel a bit uneasy, yet hundreds of visitors come here everyday which kind of helps me keep my nervousness at bay. And I really am curious to see this place that is more like a historical re-enactment of the Cold War. I even went out of my way and put on my smartest outfi t instead of the comfy clothes I normally wear.

No sleeveless tops, mini skirts, shorts, thongs and torn jeans: The JSA has a dress code as strict as the Vatican. Thats because, as our tour guide puts it: North Korean soldiers might take photos of you and use them for propaganda purposes. So, our fashion trends might be mistaken for worn out clothes according to that logic.

I dont know if that is all true, but as you can probably tell by now, the relationship between North and South is not exactly one based on mutual trust. Anyway, now that the checklist is ticked, we are allowed to proceed to the

Korea adviceAn ideal stop-off between Australia and Europe, Korea is home to the Demilitarised Zone the worlds most heavily-armed border, which also happens to have a strict dress code...WORDS MARIA ROECKMANN

JSA. The atmosphere is tense and everybody seems to be on high alert. Korean soldiers on duty stand there motionless, facing north, their hands clenched in fi sts, dark sunglasses concealing their eyes. The northern side seems completely deserted. But the fact that we cant see the soldiers doesnt mean that theyre not keeping a close eye on us.

North Korea, one of the most secretive closed off countries on Earth, is only a few metres away behind a concrete slab. And yet, it is impossible to reach as youd risk your life and those around you if you intended to cross. But there is one place within the JSA where you can set foot on North Korean soil safely. There are three blue huts built right across the border and one of them is the conference room of the United Nations Command and North Korea. It has doors on the Northern and Southern side for the offi cial parties to enter. This is where negotiations take place from time to time. Nothing fancy here in this signifi cant building, just a few long wooden tables equipped with microphones. South Korean soldiers block the doors to the North while were in, just in case

After visiting the conference room, were allowed to take a few photos and then swiftly move back to the bus. As its our lucky day today, we get a glimpse of some North Korean soldiers patrolling the border just before we leave.

As we drive off, I wonder how all these families feel after being separated for decades by this division. I remember a

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Yes, even the worlds most heavily-armed border has a gift shop

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM42

Photos: Getty Im

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ages/Reuters

place we went to earlier in the day, called the Freedom Bridge. Hundreds of people have tied ribbons with their wishes for reunifi cation on the barbed wire fences.

In light of all that Ive seen, I run into the one and only souvenir shop of the JSA (yes, apparently even the most heavily-armed border on Earth cant do without one).

Here you can take home a piece of the most closed off country: maybe a whiskey or stamps with the portrait of Kim Jong-il.

SEOUL SEARCHING

Im fi nally leaving the DMZ behind me, the most surreal place Ive ever visited But only 40km south of the border, in the city of Seoul, life is just normal. With over 10 million people, it is one of the largest cities in the world and a cool place to stop over on your way from Australia to Europe. Im staying in Hongdae, a student district with heaps of bars and restaurants. Even at night its still bustling with activity, the streets are crowded with students going out for a drink or late dinner. Shops and stalls as far as the eye can see promote their spicy street foods, glittery jewellery and ginseng facial masks.

Hongdaes not only a cool place at night time but also on a Saturday (except for winter) when there is an arts and crafts market close to Hongik University where students sell their uniquely designed T-shirts, bags and paintings.

But I also like the more traditional places of Seoul, such as Insadong. Walking through the streets of this charming

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shopping district, I have to keep in mind my already overweight luggage as its hard to resist all these hand-crafted tea pots and decorative fans. Insadong is part of Jongno-gu district, the oldest part of Seoul with many traditional wooden houses, palaces (including UNESCO World Heritage-listed Chandeokgung) and beautiful Jogyesa temple, overlayed by hundreds of multi-coloured lanterns.

A bit further south, in Jung-gu district, is another one of the highlights of my tour: Namsangol Hanok Village that displays houses (some of

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TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 43

them authentic buildings, others rebuilt) of times long past. I like it because you can see how the commoners lived

in Korea some centuries ago. You can even try out some traditional Korean games such as arrow throwing, or watch a traditional Korean marriage ceremony.

And then there is Samcheong-Dong, a charming neighbourhood by the base of the

mountain, with many beautiful wooden houses and an interesting mix of traditional Korean restaurants and French and Italian cafs. Its a great place to have a green tea latte or some yummy Korean food.

With its cosy neighbourhoods, historic temples and modern shopping streets, Seoul is a great place to visit. Its easy to fi t in a day tour to the infamous border about 40km up north, the DMZ. Just dont forget some smart clothes.

NEXT WEEK

Papua New Guinea: Finding Australias northern neighbour

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM44

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TOUR FIRMSAdventure Tours Australia-wide tours 1800 068 886,adventuretours.com.au

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