Tin Shed Snuggle Pants
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Transcript of Tin Shed Snuggle Pants
.tinshedyarn . .blogspot co nz ,South Kaipara H ,elensville Auckland
Charted Designs for Traditional Knitting
Tin Shed Yarns –Charted Designs for Traditional Knitting .tinshedyarn .blogspot nz
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Tin Shed Yarns Charted Designs For Traditional Knitting
Tin Shed Snuggle Pants .Knitting Pattern
Tin Shed Yarn Designs is based in the old timber and railway . ,town of Helensville in South Kaipara I work with pure wool
classic lines and traditional methods to create special .garments
Description
Classical knitted leggings for a three-month to six-month old
baby. A folded casing with a plain knit lining makes a comfortable
waistband. Yarn-over increases give fullness and an i-cord
drawstring keeps the pants secure. The merino 4-ply is worked to
a dense gauge to give durability while remaining soft to the skin.
Decreases down the inside legs give structure and are finished
with a ribbed cuff.
Construction
The garment is worked top-down and in-the-round. A length of i-
cord is worked to make a drawstring.
Snuggle Pants
For babies three to six months old
Finished Measurements
Length waist to cuff 42cm
Width at hips 24cm
Skills Required –Intermediate level.
Basic stitches -knit, purl, yarn-over,
paired decreases and central double
decreases, over-sewn bind-off, and i-
cord construction (see Glossary and
Notes). Knitting in the round.
Yarn
Patons Dreamtime 4ply 100%
Australian Merino Wool (169 m per
50gm ball)
Three 50gm balls.
Needles
2.5mm/US #1.5 needles: a 40cm
circular and needles for small
circumference in the round: DPNs, or
magic loop as you prefer.
Miscellaneous
Stitch markers (removable ones) or
safety pins, spare yarn to act as a stitch
holder, two extra 2.5mm/#1.5 DPNs
for making i-cord, or an i-cord maker
(optional). Large safety pin for
threading cord.
Gauge
33 sts and 20 rounds = 10cm (4 inches)
in stockinette stitch
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Glossary and Notes
SKP- Slip one stitch knitwise, then knit the next stitch. Insert the left needle into the slipped stitch. Pass
the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the right needle.
M1- Work to the place where the increase is to be made. Insert the left needle from front to back into
the horizontal strand between the two stitches: Knit the stitch through the back loop.
K2tog- Knit the next two stitches on the left needle as one stitch.
BO - Bind Off or Cast-off. Working right to left, pull the head of the stitch to be bound off over the top of
its neighbour sitting to its immediate left. Pick up the head of that stitch and collect the passed loop
through it as you would a stitch.
K –Knit stitch
P –Purl stitch.
Further details can be found at these web-sites; www.craftexpert.co.uk, and www.craftyarncouncil.com.
Notes
To Make I-cord by Hand
I-cord is a method of working so that a continuous tube of knit stitch is created using DPNs. The
drawstring of these pants is a 4 stitch tube worked on 2 DPNs.
1. Cast on 4 stitches.
2. Knit on round using the DPNs.
3. Without turning the work, slide those 4 knitted stitches to the other end of the DPN.
4. Work a further row in knit, pulling the working yarn tight before starting the first stitch.
5. Slide and knit further rows pulling the working yarn tight at the start of each row. Tube will form
after 4 or 5 rows. Continue for a further 60cm (2 feet). Cast off and knot end.
Yarn Substitutes
Popular merino 4ply yarns such as Merino Superwash 4-ply from Old Maiden Aunt or
Merino Soft 4ply Baby from Skeinz will work.
A summer weight version can be made in a cotton/wool/possum blend such as Zealana Kiwi.
Please attend to the gauge before starting.
.tinshedyarn . .blogspot co nz ,South Kaipara H ,elensville Auckland
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Making the I-cord using a hand-cranked knit-cord maker.
Follow the instructions included with your knitted cord maker. I suggest you work at a steady
pace as speed tends to upset the works and the knitting has to be re-started. Most cord makers
will not work with anything thicker than 4ply.
Make approximately 60cm and knot the ends.
Figure 2 i-cord maker in use.
Schematic Drawing For Tin Shed Snuggle Pants
Waistband with purl ridge
5cm deep
Yarn-overs to increase shape
4 stitches bound off front and
back and joined as a seam.
Joins for legs shaped
with paired decreases
Extra length added
without shaping
Start from waistband
and work down
Waist to cuff
42cm
Width at hips
24cm Work is divided into
legs at this point.
Gusset to
Cuff 25cm
Waist 18 cm
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Instructions for knitting the Tin Shed Snuggle Pants.
To Start-
Using the circular needle, cast on 120 stitches, place markers every 30 stitches to divide
up the sections. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. (See Tip below
if you struggle with the twist!)
The Cheat’s Method To Safely Start Knitting-In–The-Round Without Having Your Stitches Twist.
A less fiddly way to start a project worked in-the-round, is to start working back and forth in rows until all
stitches are lining up smartly. This may take five rows or so. You can then join the round. At this stage you
put markers in to denote front and back divisions. The tail of the starting round is a handy guide for the
start of the work. The gap left by the straight knitting can be sewn up once finished.
Waistband
Knit 20 rounds.
Purl 1 round for turning ridge.
Ribbing: (P1, k1) around.
Work 20 rounds of ribbing as set.
Waistband to Hips
Knit 30 rounds.
Next round, increase and make eyelet holes as increases for hips: (K5, yo) around. 144 sts.
Knit 1 more round.
Increase for Crotch
Round 1, increase: K to 2 sts before first marker, m1, k4, m1, k to 2 sts before third marker,
m1, k4, m1, k to end of round. 4 sts increased.
Repeat Round 1 once more. 152 sts.
Front marker
Back marker
Side marker
Marker for start of
rounds.
Circular needle set-up for
Tin Shed Snuggle Pants
30 stitches
between
markers.
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The four stitches at the front and back centres will become a small seam at the crotch.
Round 3, increase: K to 2 sts before first marker, m1, k4, m1, k to 2 sts before third marker,
m1, k4, m1, k to end. 4 sts increased. 156 sts.
Repeat the increase round 17 more times. 228 sts total.
Next round, bind off for crotch seam: K to 2 sts before first marker, m1, bind off 4 sts,
removing marker, m1, k to 2 sts before third marker, m1, bind off 4 sts, removing marker, m1,
k to end of round. 224 sts.
There will be 112 stitches on either side, for each leg.
First leg:
Knit to first gap created by BO. Slip 112 sts between this gap and the next to scrap yarn for a
holder; you’ll work on the rem 112 sts for the first leg. Distribute the 112 sts of the first leg on
needles for a small circumference: DPNS, magic loop or two circulars as you prefer. This is the
new start of round; place a removable stitch marker or safety pin in the fabric for the start of
the round. Join for working in the round, pulling the yarn tight over the gap created by the BO
and knit 4 rounds.
Decrease round: K1, SKP, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Knit 2 rounds.
Repeat the last three rounds 34 more times, until you have 52 stitches.
Work even until leg measures 25cm cm from division point.
Ribbing round: (K1, p1).
Work ribbing as set for 3 cm.
Cast off.
Return 112 held stitches for second leg to needles. With RS facing, rejoin yarn and complete as
for first leg.
Figure 1. Decreases worked down inside leg. Four stitches front and back sewn together as a small seam.
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Finishing and Blocking
Weave in ends. Sew crotch seam with stitches head to head –it’s best to simply over-
sew firmly through the loops. If you started the work flat you will need to sew up the
gap. Fold the waistband to the inside at the purl ridge and sew down.
Figure 2 Waistband sewn down.
Thread the i-cord through the waistband using a safety-pin: find a point at the front
centre and poke the cord through between stitches in the knitted fabric. I have not
directed you to create a buttonhole for this purpose as I have found it enlarges
unhelpfully.
Figure 3 I-cord threaded into fabric and along waistband casing.
Hand- wash gently in a plant-based fibre wash. Rinse and squeeze out excess water. Dry
flat in a warm spot.
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Figure 4 Crotch stitches sewn together.
Figure 5 Increases at hips worked as yarn-overs.
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Figure 6 Snuggle Pants completed.
Acknowledgements
Test-knitted by Sian Knauf
Tech Edited by Kate Atherley
“I-cord” is often attributed to Elizabeth Zimmerman, and is explained in her 1981 book “Knitting
Workshop”, published by Schoolhouse Press.
Copyright
This pattern is not available to be copied.
The intellectual property contained and detailed in this pattern solely belongs to Tin
Shed Yarns of Helensville, Auckland.
If you want to use this pattern for charity knitting, you are obliged to contact me and
ask….a quick e-mail will suffice. I would be honoured.
If you want to use this pattern for teaching, you are obliged to contact me and
ask…..again a quick e-mail will suffice; Again, I would be honoured.
I can be contacted at the details below;
Contact Details
Fiona MacBride, Helensville, South Kaipara, Auckland.
Ravelry.com TinShedYarns
.tinshedyarn . .blogspot co nz ,South Kaipara H ,elensville Auckland
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