Time & Style 2010

The World’s Most

LUXURIOUS AND EXOTIC WATCHES��

presents

PLUS: Stunning timepieces for all occasions: Diving Watches, Black on Black, Dress Watches, Sport Chronographs • Desk Candy for your den

Museum-worthy pens • Star Watch: What Leonardo DiCaprio wears

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El ToroPatented Perpetual Calendar.

Self-winding movement.

18 ct rose gold case with ceramic bezel.

Water-resistant to 100 m. Also available in platinum.

Limited to 500 pieces.

WWW.U LY S S E - NA R D I N . COM

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EDITORIAL

John McGouran | Publisher

Michael La Fave Editorial and Creative Director

Carol Besler | Watch Editor

Evan Kaminsky | Art Director

Jeremy Freed | Managing Editor

Leo Petaccia | Associate Editor

Contributing Writer Matt Currie

Letters to the editor: [email protected]

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ADVERTISING

Jeff McCannSenior Account Manager

[email protected]

Vincent Noëlquébec regional manager

[email protected]

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Time & Style is published by Contempo Media Inc. No

part of this publication may be copied or reprinted

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Volume 3, Issue 1, Dec-Jan 2011

At a recent dinner, I asked a group of watch enthusiasts what advice they would give to a novice collector. A debate ensued about what to spend, where to buy and how to decide on the perfect watch, until one sage

reasoned: “The most expensive watch you will ever own is the one you buy to replace the urge for the one you really want. Don’t settle.”

This is sound advice, from both a financial and an aesthetic point of view. A good watch can be an investment, but it would be wrong to assume it will automatically appreciate in value as though it were, say, a new condo in a transitional neighborhood. If you buy shrewdly or hold on to something long enough, you might do well in the pre-owned watch market, but buying watches strictly for investment can end in frustration and saddle you with a collection you will never enjoy. The idea of owning several watches is to enjoy wearing them and, above all, to look good in them.

People ask me all the time if watches are outdated because “people can just look at their phones.” Sure, but wouldn’t you rather glance at (and show off) a beautiful, prestigious timepiece than drag out your utilitarian phone? Plus, checking your phone is not particularly subtle; there are times when you don’t want to be caught checking the time. Ultimately, though, watches are as much about style as they are about time, and both of those elements will always be worth investing in.

Carol Besler, Watch Editor

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4T I M E & S T Y L E

Investing in Time and StyleE D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

1860 Edouard Heuer founded his workshop in the Swiss Jura.

1916 First mechanical stopwatch accurate to 1/100th of a second.

1969 First automatic chronograph.

2010 TAG Heuer CARRERA Calibre 16 Day Date.

1860 1916 1969 2010

1.877.444.0824 www.tagheuer.com

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6 T I M E & S T Y L E

Dispatches from the World of TimepiecesN E w S

Time for chariTy—Watch enthusiasts poured into auctioneer Antiquorum’s New York showroom in October to bid on several outstanding, special-edition timepieces created to benefit the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. Highlights included a Hublot Big Bang Aero, a semi-skeletonized ceramic and 18k gold chronograph; a Zenith El Primero “Striking Tenth” chronograph; and a Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase. The auction raised US$253,000. CB

The waTchmaker’s waTchmaker—Francois Paul Journe, considered the best watchmaker in the world by his peers and collectors alike, was in Toronto recently to commemorate the availability (in limited numbers) of his brand, F.P. Journe, in Canada. He was the guest of Louis Kostopoulos, a long-time watch connoisseur and collector turned retailer—now president of Louis Black Jewellers, which will carry the watches. Kostopoulos held a dinner for Journe, attended by 60 watch enthusiasts anxious to gape at some of the creations Journe brought along, including a $600,000 Grand Sonnerie Minute Repeater, a watch that took six years to create and holds 10 patents. Journe is the winner of six Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards, the most prestigious award in watchmaking (another four of his inventions are nominated this year). Only the lucky few can indulge in an F.P. Journe. The workshop makes fewer than 900 watches per year, at a core price range of $16,000 to $130,000.

Peking To Paris wiTh frÉdÉrique consTanT—Participants in the five-week Peking-to-Paris car rally, sponsored by watch brand Frédérique Constant, were happy to finish the race in Place Vendôme in October, after trekking over 14,360 kilometres of rough roads (or no roads) through 11 countries—particularly one entry, a Lancia Theta, which broke down five times en route.

Tag reinvenTs Time—

F ive years after being introduced as a concept watch, TAG Heuer’s revolutionary Monaco V4 is now in production. The V4 is the first watch to function via a system of transmission

belts and pulleys instead of the usual pinions and wheels that comprise the gear train of a traditional watch movement. TAG spent years alloying its own rubber compound for the belts to make them resistant to wear, vibration and extreme temperatures. The V4 is platinum and limited to 150 pieces, priced at $80,000.

Antiquorum watch expert, auctioneer and company director Charles Tearle at the special auction for MS in New York. Tearle was in Toronto recently to talk watches with collectors from TimeZone.com.

The Hublot Big Bang Aero was created especially for the Antiquorum auction for MS. The case is black ceramic with a rose gold bezel, and the dial is open-worked. It sold for $23,000.

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Office Stylea C C E S S O R I E S

8 T I M E & S T Y L E

deskToP decadenceFive pieces of sumptuous desk candy.

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Office Stylea C C E S S O R I E S

deskToP

1. Dior iPad CaseTh e iPad is an undeniably impressive feat of technological engineering. Should you feel the need to protect yours from wobbling coff ee mugs and other desktop hazards, you’ll need a protective case that’s just as impressive. Look no further than Dior Homme. Available in Black Tie Leather or Classic Coated Canvas, this product functions as a standard notepad case on one side and an iPad case on the other. Elegant and refi ned, it’s a fi tting home for a device of the iPad’s sophistication. From $470

2. Purisme Letter OpenerLike most people, you no doubt open most of your mail with the click of a mouse and therefore have little practical need of a letter opener. But until letter mail becomes offi cially obsolete, you’ll need something sharp to open those envelopes, and there’s nothing more stylish than this off ering from Purisme. Craft ed entirely from carbon fi bre and weighing just seven grams, its ultra-sleek aesthetics will beautify your desktop, regardless of how much mail you end up opening. $215

3. Roland Iten Card Dispenser RCD 81Th ere are undoubtedly much simpler, more practical options for housing your business or credit cards than Roland Iten’s intricately mechanized dispenser. But you’d be hard-pressed to introduce yourself with more style. It comes in your choice of gold or titanium body, sporting a trigger mechanism that causes the stored cards to pop out and retract at the push of a button. Moreover, the surface of the aluminum inner case is primed for engraving your initials, adding even more uniqueness to an already singular accessory. From $7,275

4. ID Titanium MouseIn all likelihood, the mouse currently sitting on your desk can be accurately described as a piece of fairly cheap-looking plastic. However, as Dutch manufacturer Intelligent Design shows us, it could be so much more. Hand-craft ed from Grade 1 Titanium and high-quality plastic resin into a unique eye-catching form, it’s a cutting edge Bluetooth wireless navigation tool that takes the form of an elegantly wrought work of art. $560

5. Herman Miller Ardea Desk LampA light source is one thing where functionality should not be compromised for appearance’s sake, and the Herman Miller Ardea combines the best of both worlds. Designer Yves Béhar was inspired by the necks of herons, to create an infi nitely adjustable lamp that’s sleek and modern, but with a distinct natural infl uence. $400 By Matt Currie

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Writing Instrumentsa C C E S S O R I E S


The genTleman’s PenTake note: When it comes making a statement of style in your office or study, there�s no better ornament than a finely crafted pen.

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Writing Instrumentsa C C E S S O R I E S

1. Waterman’s Th e Marks of Time Among the elite in Waterman’s innovative Exception line are Th e Marks of Time. Sporting a highly distinctive quadrangular body decorated by swirling lines that emulate fl owing water, Th e Marks of Time fountain pens are craft ed from a bar of sterling silver, which is honed and polished before being dipped in either nickel palladium or 24-carat gold (creating vermeil); it’s topped off by an engraved 18 carat gold nib. Limited edition production runs mean that only 1000 Vermeil copies and 1500 Sterling Silver copies have been produced. From $1,650

2. Faber-Castell’s Pen of the Year 2010 Th e design of Faber-Castell’s Pen of the Year 2010 is based on high- quality handcraft ed rifl es owned by an ancestor of the pen maker. Th e barrel consists of seasoned Caucasian walnut wood juxtaposed against engraved case-hardened metal parts with 24 carat gold inlay; the most intriguing element of construction is the case-hardening, a rarely used process that was also widely employed in the 1800s in high-quality rifl e construction, creating a unique “shimmering” eff ect on the surface of the metal. A fountain pen built like a 19th century rifl e—need we say more? $2,510

3. Dunhill’s Sentryman Meteorite Rollerball A limited edition entry in London-based Dunhill’s Sentryman line, the Meteorite pen derives its name and heft y price tag from a lacquer fi nish comprised of crushed black diamonds as well as actual meteorite rocks collected from Argentina. A distinctly masculine tool, the meteorite fi nish on this rollerball is complemented by a black PVD fi nish on the brass clip and detailing. To call it “out of this world” would be a touchhyperbolic but nonetheless accurate. $1,800

4. Montblanc’s Meisterstuck Solitaire Platinum-Plated FacetTh e appeal of this singular entry in the German penmaker’s Meisterstück line isn’t diffi cult to pin down. Platinum plated from barrel to cap, the surface is defi ned by a matte of unique rectangular facets, creating a grenade-like texture with a uniform metallic shine. An unmistakably masculine totem that’s equal parts power and elegance. Available in fountain, rollerball and ballpoint, it’s the weapon of choice for the high-powered businessman. From $955

5. Cartier’s RoadsterA single glance at this distinctly masculine utensil from Cartier’s latest line should be enough to convince you that “Roadster” is the only name that would do. Th e all-black composite barrel and cap, mixed with the palladium fi nished clip and details, unmistakably channel the bulbous steel bodies and chrome fenders of classic mid-20th century autos. Available in fountain, rollerball and ballpoint. From $390 By Matt Currie

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INTRODUCING BULOVA PRECISIONISTTHE WORLD’S MOST ACCURATE WATCH

WITH A CONTINUOUSLY SWEEPING SECOND HAND

CLAREMONTCOLLECTION

Most quartz watches are accurate to 15 seconds amonth - Bulova Precisionist is accurate to 10 seconds

a year.

The key is Precisionist’s unique three-prong quartz crystal,which produces a vibration frequency of 262.144 kilohertz(kHz), eight times greater than the usual two-prong crystaland the highest of any watch available today. And, theinnovative design of the Precisionist movement reducesthe effects of temperature variation without using a highmaintenance thermo-regulating integrated circuit.

The result is a watch that is extraordinarily precise,yet so easy to operate.

www.bulova.com


Dress WatchesD E S I G N

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1. Perfect for a grey suit, the TAG Heuer Vintage Monaco Heuer chronograph with date window is stainless steel, with a punched black calfskin strap and a sapphire caseback showing the automatic movement. $5,200

2. Rolex, better known for its Submariner and Datejust models, is also the inventor of the classic Cellini Prince collection, inspired by a 1920s design, with hours on one side of the winding stem and minutes on the other. It contains a manually wound mechanical movement. $17,950

3. Th e classic Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Minute Onyx, with a central hour and minute track and a seconds

subdial, both without numerals. Th e dial is onyx and the case is stainless steel. It contains a proprietary automatic movement with 68-hour power reserve. $13,900

4. � e Memovox is a classic Jaeger-LeCoultre model, fi rst introduced in the 1950s. Th e case is stainless steel and the movement is an automatic with an alarm function, set by a crown at 2 o’clock, and a date window. $9,600

5. A subtle seconds subdial adorns the dial of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5124, from the deco-styled Gondolo collection. It is cased in yellow gold, with a manually-wound mechanical movement. $20,800

T here are times when bells and whistles—helium valves, jumbo bezels, tritium-covered markers and cluttered subdials—

should be eschewed in favor of something more understated. A black tie dinner, say, or any dinner short of an athletic victory, requires a watch that is as blithely in repose as you are; off the clock, so to speak. If you must wear a sports watch, let it be something subtle and subdued, like the TAG Heuer Vintage Monaco because, depending on how long dinner lasts, a proper dress watch should be the most sober thing in the room. CB

dressed for dinnerThe perfect companion to a well-tailored suit and a pair of fine cufflinks.

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good TimingThe most popular complication in the world of horology is the chronograph, the ubiquitous stopwatch. Here are a few that perform as well as they look.

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Chronographs T E C H N O L O G Y

1. Th e Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussic is named for the watchmaker who invented the chronograph in 1821. It contains the brand’s fi rst in-house, proprietary movement, a hand-wound mechanical calibre. It also has a second time zone, a day/night indicator, and a “smiling bridge” between totalizers. Steel case with anthracite dial. $10,120

2. Th e Ralph Lauren Sporting Chrono contains an automatic movement made by Jaeger-LeCoultre, a fellow Richemont brand. Th e case is stainless steel and the white dial is applied with elegant Roman numerals. A tachymeter scale circles the bezel. $7,300

3. Th e Tudor Heritage Chrono is inspired by the Tudor Oysterdate

chrono from the ’70s. It is a two-dial chrono with minutes totalizer and small seconds, featuring stylized curved shoulders protecting the crown, knurled bezel and shield-motif markers. $4,245

4. Th e curved case band and arched bezel of the Longines Flagship Heritage was inspired by a 1954 vintage model. It’s a three-hand chrono with detailed chapter ring and an automatic move-ment in a steel case. $8,500

5. Th e Concord Tech is PVD steel and 18k rose gold, with eight black rubber protectors on the bezel. A ribbed guilloché dial is overlapped by a metal grid for a multi-level look. It contains an automatic movement and is water-resistant to 200 metres. $16,900

T he chronograph was invented in 1821 to time horse races, but has since evolved to track much faster animals, such as Olympic

swimmers and Formula 1 racers. Th e importance of tracking kamikaze drivers notwithstandng, the chronograph’s real currency is its function as an element of style. No other category of watches incorporates as many options in terms of design or technology. Afi cionados can choose between split-seconds, fl yback, two-dial, three-dial, retro-grade, column-wheel, chronometer-certifi ed and even digital chronographs that can track time to 1/10th, 1/100th and even 1/1,000th of a second. Th e chrono can be anything: cased in 18k gold or two-tone gold and steel, it becomes a dress watch; for a tougher look, opt for a titanium chrono with a crown protector and pushers big enough to necessitate letting out your cuff s. Th ere is no better horological venue in which to express your individual style. CB


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nauTical sTaTemenTsYou can�t do anything about the lumpy wetsuit or face-distorting scuba mask, but these dive watches will not only time your dive, but help you shine underwater, too.

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1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Off shore Diver, with unidirectional inner bezel with locked-crown function, luminescent hands (on both top and sides), shock and magnetic resistance construction (in case of approaching submarines), and an adjustable pin buckle strap to fi t over wetsuits. Water-resistant to 300 metres. Stainless steel case with in-house movement. $15,100

2. Baume & Mercier Riviera XXL diver’s watch, with a 43mm steel case, and silver dial, and a unidirectional rotating bezel. It also includes a chronograph function, with hour and minute totalizers and small seconds subdial, as well as date and tachymeter. Th e steel bracelet has a triple folding clasp. Water-resistant to 200 metres. $4,290

3. Ulysse Nardin’s Hammerhead Sharkdiver’s watch is a salute to the brand’s background in marine chronometers. Th e titanium case is engraved with the

form of the hammerhead shark. It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, luminous indexes, a small seconds and date at 6 o’clock and a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. It is water-resistant to 200 metres. $8,900

4. Th e Bulova Precisionist, part of the brand’s high-performance Champlain Collection, features a screw-back case, double screw-down crown and continuously sweeping second hand that’s accurate to 10 seconds a year. Th e dial is carbon fi bre and includes a date function, and the hands are luminous. Water-resistant to 300 metres. $650

5. Th e Longines HydroConquest diving watch is a large, 47.5mm watch, with stainless-steel case and black rubber strap, with adjustable diving buckle. Hands and markers are treated with superluminova, case and crown are screwed down and the rotating bezel is unidirectional. With chronograph and date functions. Water-resistant to 300 metres. $3,100

M ost of us think of a chronograph function as the defi ning characteristic of the sports watch, but according to Swiss authorities,

a watch cannot offi cially be defi ned as a sports watch unless it has at least 100-metre water-resistance. If you’re a stickler for rules and you want to pass the sports watch test, then any of these watches, all rated at depths well below 100 metres, will qualify. Most also perform one or more of the additional standard functions of a diving watch, including a unidirec-tional rotating bezel, adjustable strap to fi t over a wetsuit, screwdown locking crown and caseback, heavily luminated hands and markers or a helium valve for diving daredevils. CB

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T E C H N O L O G Y Diving Watches

1. Th e Hublot King Power is high complication with a fl ying tourbillon movement and chronograph function. Th e case is black ceramic and rubber with H-shaped, PVD-coated titanium screws. Th e bracelet is ceramic and PVD steel. $160,000

2. Th e TX 600 Pilot Flyback is a six-hand movement, including retrograde fl yback chronograph function, a second time zone, date window and tachymeter scale. Th e case is steel with a screw-down crown, for water-resistance to 100 metres. $695

3. Th e case of the Franc Vila Fva8 Dark Side is black PVD, with black mother-of-pearl and guilloché dial, with black hands. It contains an automatic chronograph movement with date function. $23,000

4. Th e Bell & Ross Instrument BR03 Phantom is a two-dial chronograph with minute totalizer and small seconds. Th e case is steel with a vacuum carbon fi nish. It is water-resistant to 100 metres and contains an automatic movement. Th e strap is rubber and synthetic canvas. $4,400

arT of darknessBlack on black has never looked better than on these high-performance timepieces.

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Black Watches F a S H I O N

The blacked-out chrono is the ultimate fashion statement, a sign that, secure in the knowledge that your powerful watch

is capable of split-seconds timing, you don’t care that you can’t see where the subdials end and the markers begin. Th e important thing is that it looks great with everything. (Th e index, hands and markerson these timers are treated with a glow-in-the-dark luminescent coating, in case you really do, on occasion, need to read the time.) CB

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F O R H E R

The righT waTch for The righT womanDoes the woman on your arm have something decent on her wrist? Six new watches she�ll love.

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L adies’ watches started out as petite versions of men’s watches, until some wag in the watch industry observed that if there is one thing we

know about women, it is that they are not petite ver-sions of men. Th en all hell broke loose. A barrage of fl owered dials, hot pink straps and confusing bracelet attachments ensued, making it embarrassing to buy a watch for your wife or sister, or especially your mother, not to mention having to be seen with her wearing it. Fortunately things have come full circle and it is now possible for a woman to wear a great watch that is as dignifi ed, powerful and sensible as a man’s—only slightly more petite. CB

Diamonds not your girl’s best friend? Several options and price points are available for most of these, including all-steel, all gold, fully set or without diamonds.

Women�s Watches

1. Th e Rolex two-tone red gold and steel Ladies Datejust contains an automatic proprietary movement, with the brand’s classic logo crown, cyclops date window and distinctive bracelet. Th e bezel is set with 24 diamonds and the Roman numeral at six o’clock is set with 11 diamonds. $8,970

2. Th e Ebel Classic is a two-tone 18k pink gold and steel watch, with diamond accents (42 on the bezel and 11 diamond markers) and a mother-of-pearl dial. It contains a mechanical automatic movement with date function. $6,950

3. Th e TAG Heuer Formula 1 for ladies is the perfect example of a dress/sport watch. In ceramic and stainless steel, with a mother-of-pearl dial and a bezel set with a row of diamonds. Th e movement is quartz. $1,700

4. Th e 29 mm Chanel J12 for ladies has become a modern classic. Th e case and bracelet are black ceramic over steel. Black lacquered dial is set with eight diamond indexes. Th e movement is quartz. $5,600

5. Th e Longines Prima Luna is 18k rose gold and steel, with classic Roman numerals and blued-steel hands, 44 diamonds on the bezel and fl inqué (guilloched) dial. Th e movement is a mechanical automatic. $5,650

6. � omas Sabo designs watches with fashion in mind, including the Sport Chronograph, an oversized (44 mm) ladies’ watch. Th e case is high-gloss black ceramic and steel, with a steel bezel. A two-layer dial with cross pattern adds dimension. Th e watch is a quartz chronograph, with small seconds, minute and hour totalizers. $1,340

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Ultimate pieces for the serious collector

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C O v E R S T O R Y

HIGH TIMERSE very collector has a Grail watch, the one special piece for which he would happily consider trading all

other treasures in his collection. Although criteria vary widely at this level of collecting, qualifying elements include proprietary movements, multiple complications, aesthetic bravado (kick-ass design)

and employment of one or more of watchmaking’s métiers d’art—micro-engraving, enameling, gemsetting and other forms of careful extravagance. Here is a taste of watchmaking’s most elite. By Carol Besler


MB&F hM4 ThunderboltThe case of the fourth Horological Machine from the master watchmaker “Friends” of independent watchmaking impresario Max Büsser (MB&F stands for Max Büsser & Friends) is composed of 65 components arranged in an egregiously imaginative jet-engine twin-pod configuration. Five crystals offer multiple views of the 311-component movement, including two mainspring barrels and two separate gear trains. $158,000


Urwerk UR-CC1 Black CobraIn this idiosyncratic masterpiece, retrograde minutes and hours are tracked on a pair of cylinders, while a seconds index stretches out in a linear display by means of a rotating disk. The Black Cobra is the latest example of Urwerk’s always-eccentric interpre-tation of timekeeping. The luminescent-treated yellow numerals and indicators stand out against a black anthracite background. The case is brushed white gold, with a titanium baseplate. $288,000

High TimersC O v E R S T O R Y


Ulysse Nardin Freak DiavoloThe Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo flying tourbillon has no hands and no crown, but lots of teeth. The open-worked movement’s technical claim to fame is the hairspring and escapement wheels made of silicium, a temperature- and pressure-resistant silicon that eliminates the need for lubrication and improves accuracy. The pivoting escapement does a complete rotation on its axis every 60 seconds, hence the attached arrow, harnessed to indicate seconds. The case is uniquely crown-free, so to wind it, turn the lower bezel; to adjust the time, turn the upper bezel. The case is 18k white gold. $140,000


High TimersC O v E R S T O R Y

Cartier Rotonde Tourbillon Squelette This is a flying tourbillon, which means the rotating escapement is cantilevered from a base instead of sandwiched between two bridges. The result is the impression that the tourbillon cage is suspended in air, an effect heightened by the skeletonized movement and main plate, carved in the shape of Roman numerals. Even the barrel at 12 o’clock is skeletonized, exposing the mainspring. The case is 18k white gold. $139,000

Christophe Claret Dual Tow Night Eagle The movement of this patented monopoussoir planetary-gear chronograph and tourbillon is open-worked, revealing bridges and a mainplate made of black-tinted synthetic sapphire and unique, mechanical-digital minute and hour belts. The components, including the levers driving the chronograph mechanism, are unique to Claret’s workshop, as are the tools used to machine them. $540,000

ON ThE COVER

alberta’s exclusive dealer:

1201 – 17TH Ave SW www.CalgaryJewellery.com 1-866-245-3131

th e watch . r e cons truc t ed .

www . concord . ch

what other watch has a 3.3 mm thick sapphire crystal? what other watch has 7 s ide screws for greater structural strength? what other watch has a dist inct 3 level dial? what other watch has a case made of 53 elements that stands 16.7 mm tall? what other watch has a formula for the ult imate construct ion?

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