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The place for green fish

London’s swanky SW3, commonlyhome to upmarket and Michelin-starred

eateries, is not the most likely place to gofor a plate of good old British fish ‘n’ chips.

But Tom’s Place, chef Tom Aikens’ thirdrestaurant in the area, nay the street, isabout as far from the characteristic openfryers and smeared glass counters of atraditional chippy as you can get. If itsold pickled eggs, and it doesn’t, youwouldn’t be surprised if they were quail.

With its funky red recycled-plastic furni-ture set against a stark backdrop of silverand black fixtures, it’s the epitome of amodern, utilitarian restaurant.

In keeping with Aikens’ greatest foodpassions, his first chippy is designed to beeco-friendly. Educating people about whatfish to eat and where it comes from is partof the deal, he explains.

“We looked at what people want, andall the criteria here in SW3 fitted a fishrestaurant. The concept of Tom’s Place isdifferent in that we serve fish as simply as

possible – grilled, poached or fried –and do nothing to take away from that.

“It had to be environmentally correctwith sustainable sources,” he says. “Oneof the main aims was to raise awarenessof other species of fish that don’t com-monly get used such as pollock, ray andCornish sardines.”

This commitment to sustainability is car-ried right through the venture, from thefood down to its fixtures, fittings and eventhe take-away packaging which is madeof corn starch.

GREEN-EYED DESIGNThe two-storey site needed considerablestructural work before the fit-out couldeven begin and was subject to strict cri-teria because of its residential setting.Although no changes were made exter-nally, the building now has one of themost distinctive interiors in the area.

Portholes help to create a nautical feel,while the restaurant’s front window show-

cases a fun feature of plastic fish encasedin wacotech – a recycled mesh-type plasticthat is commonly used for insulation, but isused here to resemble fishing nets.

Tom’s project manager Tony Reps, whohas worked with Tom to take all three ofhis restaurants from concept to build,says going green has cost a lot initiallybut is confident in better deals in thefuture. “There were two sides to the greenchallenge – making the building as energyefficient as possible and sourcing new,recycled materials,” he says.

“We ended up paying a premium of upto 40 per cent to go green but found thatpeople who produce recycled and sus-tainable materials are much more pas-sionate about what they do.

“Now the supplier contacts are estab-lished it will be easier to replicate Tom’sPlace and build the brand. They believein their products and after-sales care andyou know that you’re going to get abetter deal on the back of that.”

TOM AIKENS’ SIMPLE FISH ‘N’ CHIPS CONCEPT COMES WITH IMPECCABLE ECO-FRIENDLY AIMS

Go green or else! Chef Tom Aikens is serious about the environment

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HAVE YOU TRIEDTHE GURNARD?A quick look at the menu at Tom’s Place confirms this isno place for plain old plaice.

Marine Stewardship Council-certified cod is the mostrecognisable staple from the British chippy, though hereit swims among a list of more unfamiliar stocks such aspollock, grey and red gurnard, ray and megrim sole.

Theme’s choice of gurnard and pollock botharrived in a tasty and crisp batter, a far cry from thesticky, pappy coverings you often get. Chips werelarge and thick, with delicious homemade ketchupand sides of onion rings and mushy peas. Therewas enough room – just – for a delicious orangemarmalade ice-cream.

From the recycled-plastic chairs andenvironmentally approved wood floors, tothe Avonite serving counters, kitchen cup-boards and tabletops – plus Barrisolstretched plastic ceilings like massiveketchup splodges – the mission to makeTom’s Place predominantly sustainableappears to be a success.

FOOD FOR THOUGHTBut in an area of London where gas-guzzling Chelsea Tractors are still a pop-ular mode of transport, do people reallycare where their fish comes from or howeco-friendly their local restaurants are?Aikens remains positive.

“The restaurant has had the right reac-tion and we will probably open a fewmore of Tom’s Place. It’s been very wellreceived and for a lot of people it’s aneasy place to come in and eat fish or geta take-away, while consciously doing theirbit for the environment.

“Four weeks after opening, we’re

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already making close to 50 per centmore than we expected. Our fish isquick, easy, value-for-money and verytasty, and that’s what people want.”

Apparently, we are entering a new era,where people may come to expect sus-tainable credentials with even somethingas basic as fish and chips. Tom hasalready charted his search for eco-friendlyfish supplies in a documentary and plansto invite local fishermen from across the UKinto his restaurant to educate its diners.Fornow then, SW3 is the most likely place tolook for a thoroughly modern take on thetraditional British fish supper. ■

Tom’s Place aims to introduceits customers to the moreunusual but tasty fish fromsustainable sources

VVEENNUUEE DDEETTAAIILLSS

TToomm’’ss PPllaaccee1 Cale StreetLondon SW3Tel: 020 7351 1806www.tomsplace.org.uk

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