THE VALLEYS BETWEEN BORGIO AND BORGHETTO SANTO SPIRITO The

THE VALLEYS BETWEEN BORGIO AND BORGHETTO SANTO SPIRITO

The other Riviera

enjoy a holidayin the greeneryof Liguria’sRiviera delle Palme

nature

gastro

nomy

itinera

ries

tastes

hospit

ality

Where, howand when

A stone’s throw from the sea

“From up there on the narrow terrace of a towering mountain, I will lookdown over the sea; my body will be salt, the white of a sail or the yellowof a broom flower”. Strolling along the cobbled streets of the villages inthe valleys between Borgio Verezzi and Borghetto Santo Spirito, admiringthe pale stone houses overlooking the sea, breathing in the perfumedbroom flowers, walking through a carpet of beech leaves in the upperBormida Valley, you’re reminded of the wonderful song by Joan ManuelSerrat and Gino Paoli, “Mediterraneo”. Down below white sails bob on thesea; up on the hills the air is tinged yellow with broom flowers andperfumed with ilex trees; the old walls are decorated with delicate blueItalian bellflowers (Campanula isophylla, the delight of many a botanist);the ridges are lined with centuries-old beech trees… then there arevineyards, sweeping panoramas, chestnut woods and wild mushrooms…All this is the other Riviera.

The valleys between Borgio Verezziand Borghetto Santo Spirito

the other riviera

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3

BorghettoSanto Spirito

Loano PietraLigure

Borgio

Verezzi

Bormida di Millesimo Valley and Tànaro Valley

Marem

ola

and Scarincio Valleys

Varatella Valley

Rio Nimbalto Valley

The Maremolaand Scarincio Valleys

the other riviera

PIETRA LIGURE

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Green in some areas, rocky inothers, Mount Carmo casts itsown unique spell that hasmade it one of the area’s mostattractive hiking destinations– not least because of its1389-metre drop straight tothe sea. This majestic deitydominates the coast of Borgio,Pietra Ligure and Loano. Thepanorama from its summitextends from the FrenchRiviera to Corsica, the CinqueTerre, the Apuan Alps, MountRosa, the Lombardy plain andMount Adamello.Countless torrents, includingthe Maremola and theScarincio, flow through thewoods and countryside downtowards the sea.

The valleysof Mount Carmo

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Verez

ziTov

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San G

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Maglio

lo

Giuste

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Ranz

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A stone’s throwfrom the sea

Verezzi200 metres above sealevel, 4 km from the A10motorway exit (PietraLigure) 1 km from thesea (Borgio)

Tovo San Giacomo50 metres above sea level6 km from the A10motorway exit (PietraLigure) 4 km from thesea (Pietra Ligure)

Magliolo270 metres above sealevel, 8 km from the A10motorway exit (PietraLigure), 9 km from thesea (Pietra Ligure)

Giustenice160 metres above sealevel, 8 km from the A10motorway exit (PietraLigure) 4 km from thesea (Pietra Ligure)

Ranzi180 metres above sealevel, 1 km from the A10motorway exit (PietraLigure) 2 km from thesea (Pietra Ligure)

A village loved by poets

VEREZZI

“Verezzi is best walked not from the street but fromthe rooftops, which are not rooftops at all but smallterraces, baked and bent by the sun. An uneven expanse, withslight rises and falls, that takes you from one dwelling to thenext... The main door, the first flight of a broken staircase,reveal that some of them are elegant old homes. On the groundfloor, now... the donkey kicks its legs, on the first floor, prideof place is held by… an oil mill made of solid oak, witnessto an era when olives were pressed by hand… Everything inVerezzi is made of Finale stone: a hard, rosy stone… thethresholds and the architraves, the niche with the statue ofOur Lady, the millstones are made of Finale stone......in Verezzi every house has its own pergola; rising from thepaving at almost every threshold, a vine trained for generations,father to son, to climb the façade fans out at the top toshade the highest balcony…”.(From “Postilla a Verezzi” by Camillo Sbarbaro, published bykind permission of Lina Sbarbaro).

the other riviera Verezzi

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Verezzi’s best-known eventis its theatre festival, heldevery summer in theenchanting square of thehamlet of Piazza.International theatrecompanies performamidst the town’sancient low stonebuildings, with thechurch of Sant’Agostinoas a backdrop, whilst thesummer sunset colours thesky. Nearby, before and afterthe performance…

The BorgioVerezziTheatreFestival

Here are the addresses fordining in Verezzi. The firstplace you encounter as youclimb up from the crowdedcoast is the Ristorante IlMulino (restaurant andbrasserie). Piazza’s AnticaOsteria Saracena delBergallo (inn) serves Liguriandishes – but preparedPiedmont-style. Piazza alsohas other restaurants worthtrying, like the Ristorante ATöpia, named after the area’stypical vine-covered pergolas,and the Ristorante IlCappero (named after thedelicious local capers). Closeto the square where theperformances are staged, theB&B Archivolto and theAgriturismo Cà du Gregorio(guest farm) offer excellentovernight accommodation.The Ristorante da Sem islocated on the walk fromCrosa uphill to the charmingchurch of San Martino: it isan authentic country trattoriasurrounded by holm oaks,where you can enjoy thesound of crickets and abreathtaking view as youdine. A short distance away,

further uphill in thewoods, there is anold mill, referred

to as “fenicio”,after thetechnique

used to makethe internal

blades. The mill isnow the emblem of

the national “Veretium”Theatre Prize.

…cuisine takescentre stage

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The Maremola and Scarincio Valleys

VerezziWhere, how and when

www.inforiviera.it/blu/borgio.cfm

Agriturismo Cà du Gregoriovia Ortari 12, tel. and fax 019 611 952

Antica Osteria Saracena del Bergallovia Roma 17, Piazza, tel. 019 610 487

B&B Archivoltovia Roccaro 6, tel. 019 611 820www.archivolto.net, [email protected]

Ristorante A Töpiavia Roma 16, Piazza, tel. 019 616 905

Ristorante da Semnear the church of San Martino, tel. 019 615 151

Ristorante Il Capperovia Roma 23, Piazza, tel. 019 610 958www.ilcappero.com, [email protected]

Ristorante Il Mulinovia Cava Vecchia 2, tel. 019 613 434

the other riviera Tovo San Giacomo

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The 2300 residents of Tovo San Giacomo live in varioushamlets in the middle of the small but lush Maremola

Valley. The valley is in the hilly inland area of Pietra Ligure, justa few kilometres from the coast and the wooded Melogno Hill thatleads to the Bormida Valley. As indicated by its very name –“vecchio” means old – Bardino Vecchio is an ancient town thatmay date as far back as the time of Charlemagne. The church ofSan Giovanni boasts a Gothic bell tower with several bacini, ceramicplates produced by the Arabs, embedded in its walls.However, the highlight of Tovo San Giacomo is in Bardino Nuovo:the Tower Clock Museum was the first one of its kind opened inItaly. The monumental clockwork parts exhibited at the museumdocument over a century of work by the Bergallo family, nationallyrenowned artists and craftsmen who made clocks from 1860 to1980. Their clocks mark time on the towers of several major Italian

cities such as Albenga, Savona,Bologna and Taranto.

TOVO SAN GIACOMO

The clock town

Maremola and Scarincio valleys

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The local vineyards yield excellent Pigato, Vermentino and Barbarossa,which are ideal with traditional dishes like snails and savoury pies,particularly the local pumpkin pie.And so it’s buon appetito and good night at the Albergo RistoranteFranzone (hotel and restaurant), centrally located next to the town halland the enormous eighteenth-century parish church of San GiacomoApostolo. Accommodation is also available at the Agriturismo Il Poggio(guest farm), a fifteenth-century building dubbed “the general’s house”,where guests can purchase vegetables, barnyard animals, oil, jam and wine,and the Affittacamere Casa Nobile (rooming house).On the right-hand side of the valley the B&B Claro de Luna offers its

guests use of the library, Internet access, a gym with a sauna,and rooms that are elegantly decorated “Missoni” style.Other spots worth visiting are the Taverna Cà di Giurni (inn),which offers Ligurian cuisine as well as pizza, and the lavishand elegant Rélais Il Casale, an exquisite late nineteenth-century country house in Bardino Vecchio. The Hotel RistoranteBergallo is also in Bardino Vecchio, whereas Casa VacanzeBosio (which also has a restaurant), the Pizzeria Il Caminetto,

the B&B La Luna e Sei Soldi, and the B&B La corte dei Miracoliare in Bardino Nuovo. Gourmets can find delicious honey as well as goatcheese and cow’s milk cheese at the Azienda Agricola Il Vecchio Castagno(farm), between Bardino Vecchio and the main road of Melogno.

Buon appetito and… good night

the other riviera Tovo San Giacomo

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Town Hall tel. 019 637 901www.inforiviera.it/blu/tovo.cfm

Affittacamere Casa Nobilevia Roma 59, tel. 333 694 0547

Agriturismo Il Poggiovia Poggio 129, tel. 019 637 [email protected]

Albergo Ristorante Franzonepiazza Umberto I 11tel. 019 637 133

Azienda AgricolaIl Vecchio Castagnodi Carmela Ricciardellovia Portio 185, tel. 019 648 394

B&B Claro de Lunavia Rocca 34tel./fax 019 648 409, 347 694 6294www.clarodeluna.liguria.it

B&B La corte dei Miracolivia Bosi Inferiore 26, Bardino Nuovotel. 019 648 207, 328 585 9908

Tovo San GiacomoWhere, how and when

B&B La Luna e sei soldivia Bosi 3, Bardino Nuovotel. 019 639 225, 340 928 1094www.lunaeseisoldi.it

Casa vacanze Bosio (with restaurant)via San Sebastiano 98, Bardino Nuovotel. 019 637 227, www.casavacanzebosio.com

Hotel Ristorante Bergallopiazza San Carlo 10, Bardino Vecchiotel. 019 637 226, www.bergallo.net

“G. B. Bergallo” Tower Clock Museumpiazza San Sebastiano 10, Bardino Nuovocall Town Hall

Pizzeria il Caminettovia San Sebastiano 162, Bardino Nuovotel. 019 648 152

Relais Il Casalevia Briffi 22, Bardino Vecchiotel. 019 637 5014, www.ilcasale.it

Taverna Cà di Giurnivia G.B. Accame 20, tel. 019 637 158


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Magliolo, which has a populationof 800, is the other municipalityin the Maremola Valley. It has ahistory as an early industrial centre:the road along the valley floor wasknown as Via della Ferriera – theroad to the ironworks – becauseferrous minerals from Elba wereprocessed in Isallo, one of thehamlets further uphill. The mineralswere transported by mules fromPietra Ligure. The ironworks werein operation from 1730 until themid-nineteenth century.The lovely eighteenth-centurysanctuary of Santi Cosma eDamiano is located along theroad leading to Melogno Hill, anda popular country festival is heldhere in September.

MAGLIOLO

Today the ironworks are gone, andinstead there is an “iron way”, a1200-metre Via Ferrata that hikersand mountain climbers can takefrom Cà dell’Erscia to Bricdell’Agnellino, along the Balzi Rossicoast. Along the way adventuroushikers cross a Tibetan bridgestretched over a deep canyon. Thisis an Alpine environment just a stone’s throw from thesea. Those who are afraid of heights can “settle” for awalk along the Terre Alte Trail, which starts in Toiranoand intersects with the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. The1028-metre trail leads to Melogno Hill, along a woodedridge with a marvellous view of the sea. As is the casewith most mountain passes in the Savona Apennines,several nineteenth-century military posts stand guardalong the route.In the central fort, there is an enormous holly tree thatis around 200 years old.

The old Viadella Ferriera

The modernVia Ferrata

Magliolo

the other riviera Magliolo

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The vineyards ofMagliolo produceexcellent Barbarossaand Lumassina, anddelicious snails arecooked in this area.Magliolo boasts severalhotels and restaurants: the Albergo RistorantePicina (hotel and restaurant), the Pizzeriala Genovese with barbecued specialities, andthe Trattoria Il Ghiottone along the mainroad of Melogno. Near Melogno Hill and theAlta Via dei Monti Liguri, there is also theRifugio Alpino Heidi (mountain refuge),where horses and cattle are raised.For information on small local oil and honeyproducers, contact the Town Hall.

MaglioloWhere, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 634 004, 019 634 274www.inforiviera.it/blu/magliolo.cfm

Albergo Ristorante Picinavia Mazzini 17, tel. 019 634 146

Pizzeria la Genovesevia Mazzini 25, tel. 019 634 282

Rifugio Alpino Heidivia Melogno 21, tel. 019 64 193

Trattoria Il Ghiottonevia Canova 22, tel. 019 634 102

HospitableMagliolo

The steady noise of hooves as they clip-clopalong the trail up to Melogno Hill doesn’tfrighten the two blackbirds intently peckingat earthworms in the dark soil under thebeech tree. The air is still damp. The sunclimbs the summer sky, but it has not yeterased the last of the night mist, under avault of branches and leaves that cover thehead of the Maremola Valley and the Alpineslopes of Mount Carmo. The two riders aresilent. Their hands resting on the horns oftheir saddles, they hold the reins loosely,allowing the horses to set the pace anddecide which way to go. No matter: thehorses know the trail far better than theirriders. The high ground, now lit by the sun,gives off the light scent of grass and warmrock, which blends perfectly with the animalsmell of the horses – that smell of livingnature that will remain in the riders’ clothesand beards until the following day, and theday after that. It is a smell that no showeror city soap can wash away. The noise ofthe coast is far away and forgotten: it isastonishing to think that it takes less thanhalf an hour by car to leave the din of thecrowded beaches and promenades behindand reach this hushed forest. This is a placewhere you can easily imagine encounteringa seventeenth-century bandit armed with aharquebus, or an imperial messenger on hisway to the castle of Marquis Aleramo.

Riding in the forest


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Jus Tenens was a village of the Ligurian Ingaunitribe. Destroyed and then rebuilt by the Romansas a mansio on the Via Julia Augusta, it developedunder the Longobards. Today its 870 residentsare divided between the hamlets of San Lorenzoand San Michele.The court was located in San Lorenzo: once amonth, the podestà of Pietra would sit on a stoneseat and hand down his sentences. The seat isstill there, but based on its appearance, the judgecan’t have been very comfortable! This is a landof olive groves and vineyards, and the town halldisplays two ancient stone measures, dating from1606, that were used for oil and wine. In SanMichele the castle that belonged to the bishopsof Albenga and the Marquises Del Carretto musthave been very impressive, judging from the ruinson top of the cliff. The Romanesque church ofSan Michele is also fascinating. Built in the MiddleAges (the Longobards were very devoted to StMichael), it was enlarged during the sixteenthcentury; there are fifteenth-century frescoesinside the church. Cà Comuna, or theold Town Hall, is in the same squareand is well worth a visit.

GIUSTENICE

Giustenice

Piazza Don Noli, near the churchof San Michele, is dominatedby a cypress tree and a holmoak that are 300 and 200 yearsold respectively. It is anexcellent starting point forhiking up to the woods ofMount Carmo.

Monumentaltrees

In the name of the law…

the other riviera Giustenice

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At the end of July, thePalio dei Carri is heldin the church squareof Giustenice tocommemorate the battle of 1448 betweenthe Del Carretto family and the Republicof Genoa, which won after a long siege.Today this event is remembered with abanquet of mediaeval dishes, and withshows, duels and music as entertainment.At other times of the year visitors candine at the Ristorante Capalla, orpurchase typical valley products at theshop Il Mercatino.

GiustèniceWhere, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 648 156www.inforiviera.it/blu/giustenice.cfm

Il Mercatino (local food specialities)Piazza Vittorio Veneto 2tel. 019 637 153

Ristorante Capallavia Besso 4, tel. 019 637 152

Ingredients: 100g butter,200g sugar, 4 eggs,200g dark chocolate, 2 tablespoons floor,vanilla essence.Melt the butter and chocolate in a saucepan.

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar, vanilla andflour. When the mixture is smooth

and well blended, add thebutter and chocolate.

Stir the batteruntil smooth.Pour into a

buttered caketin and bake

very hot oven20 minutes.

Back to theMiddle Ages

A recipe from Capalla a Giustenice:homemade chocolate cake

This dish is traditionally served at Easter, andthere are two versions: a vegetarian one and ameat-based one. The former is also known asfratti, perhaps because it was invented by monks(frati in Italian) during the Middle Ages and thushas no meat. The latter originated among theupper middle classes and calls for plenty of lettuceleaves and high-quality ingredients for the filling.Considered a great delicacy, meat-filled lettucewas served on noble tables as far back as theeighteenth century. The lettuce leaves are usedas a vegetable “wrapping” for an elaborate fillingthat can also contain meat. The lettuce “rolls”are stewed, and are generally served with peas.

Stuffed lettuce: a traditional dishfrom the Ligurian countryside

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RANZI

A peaceful hillside hamlet in the Pietra Ligure district, Ranzi isa village with a Mediterranean air – sunny and bedecked withflowers – and a stunning view of the sea and the coast. Visitorsreceive a warm welcome at the Albergo Cà Ligure (hotel) andcan enjoy fine food at the Trattoria Pizzeria da Piero, in thechurch square, and at the elegant and scenic Ristorante ilCapanno in the upper part of town. Just up the hill there is astone casella, the ancient nuraga-shaped shelter used by shepherds.From here there are several trails that cut through the denseMediterranean maquis covering the slopes of Mount Carmo.

RanziWhere, how and when

Albergo Cà Ligurevia Concezione 10tel. and fax 019 625 181

Ristorante il Capannovia Cappelletta 63tel. 019 625 198

Trattoria Pizzeria da Pieropiazza della Chiesa 1tel. 019 625 184

Ingredients: 2 large ripe Ligurian lemons (unwaxed),200g sugar, 50g butter, 8 eggs, breadcrumbs.Method: wash the lemons thoroughly and boil themin a little water. Set them aside. When they are cool,slice and then crush in a mortar with the sugar.Separate the eggs. Add the yolks to the lemons andblend thoroughly. Grease a pudding mould andsprinkle it with breadcrumbs. Beat the egg whitesuntil stiff and fold them into the lemon mixture.Pour the mixture into the pudding mould and bakein a slow oven for about 30 minutes.

A recipe from Capanno di Ranzi:lemon pudding

A village overlooking the sea

Ranzi

This Alpine landscape, whichresembles the Dolomites in manyrespects, is as popular with thepeople of the twenty-first centuryas it was with our prehistoricancestors of the Palaeolithic. It iseasy to understand why: just lookat the view of the mountains, thesea and the slopes dotted with olive

groves… These valleysrising from BorghettoSanto Spirito and Loanomay be small, but theyare indubitably amongthe most stunning inLiguria.

The Varatella and RioNimbalto Valleys

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the other riviera

The fact that the people of Liguria are“country folk” at heart is clear themoment you head towards Verzi, one ofthe hamlets of Loano near the verdantlower slopes of Mount Carmo. The seais just around the bend and yet, out ofsight, it is also out of mind. This is aland of farmhouses, small cultivatedfields and quiet country villages. Forcountry fare, there is the Pizzerial’Agricola, in the centre; hikers can headto the Rifugio Pian delle Bosse, amountain refuge with restaurant (altitude840 m) at the crossroads of various trailsleading up to MountCarmo.

The star of Ligurian hiking is the Alta Via deiMonti Liguri, a superbly marked hiking trial with44 stages, spanning the watershed from Ventimiglianear the French border to Ceparana, close to LaSpezia. The trail runs through a spectacularsequence of forests, rocky summits and meadows– with almost no traces of civilisation. You’llcome across nineteenth-century military outposts,stone caselle that look like small nuraghi andwere used by shepherds as shelters during bad

weather, a handful of refuges where you cantake shelter or even spend the night,crucifixes on the tallest peaks, chapelsand little churches, and small hotelsnear the mountain passes, which arecrisscrossed by roads rising from the

Rural Liguria

The Alta Via dei Monti Liguriand Mount Carmo

Caves, hermitages and…

VERZI

Verzi

Boiss

ano

Toira

no

Bales

trino

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Pizzeria l’Agricolavia Verzi 30, tel. 019 670 633

Rifugio Pian delle Bosse(with restaurant)tel. 019 671 790custodian: tel. 019 511 154347 780 6308

VerziWhere, how and when


Loano

Verzi180 metres above sea level8 km from the A10 motorwayexit (Pietra Ligure)4 km from the sea (Loano)

Boissano120 metres above sea level3 km from the A10 motorwayexit (Borghetto Santo Spirito)3 km from the sea (Loano)

Toirano40 metres above sea level1 km from the A10 motorwayexit (Borghetto Santo Spirito)3 km from the sea (BorghettoSanto Spirito)

Balestrino370 metres above sea level5 km from the A10 motorwayexit (Borghetto Santo Spirito)7 km from the sea (BorghettoSanto Spirito)

coast and descending to the plains. On sunny dayswhen the north wind is blowing (more frequent inwinter and spring), the panorama seems endless,sweeping from the Maritime Alps to Mount Monviso,Mount Rosa, Mount Adamello, Genoa, the Apuan Alps,Elba, Corsica and the French Riviera. But when thewind gusts in from the sea, the ridge disappears ina fog worthy of the Po valley. A tangle of secondarytrails connects the Alta Via to the coast and thevalley floor. One of the most intriguing is the TerreAlte Trail, which crosses the Pietra and Loano valleys.At an altitude of 1389 metres, Mount Carmo is oneof the main summits along the Alta Via – andindubitably the most scenic. As you gaze down fromthe top of this mountain, you can easily perceivethe true essence of Liguria. It is first and foremosta land of mountains rather than a maritime region,a land of forests and boulders whose skies are crossedby wind-borne eagles.

the other riviera Boissano

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Translated from the localdialect, this means“Boissano, the scent ofolive trees in bloom”. Infact olive treescharacterise thelandscape of thelow hill by the seawhere Boissano wasbuilt. Nearly 2000 people live inthe ancient and modern hamletson the slopes of Mount Ravinet(1061 m), with stone houses thathave terraced roofs to collectrainwater, and several lovelybuildings (including the townhall) with decorated façadespainted in lively colours. Thesquare, where the town hall andparish church are located, alsohas a beautiful well.The town is surrounded byMediterranean maquis, whichthrives alongside vegetablepatches, orchards and vineyards.And on the horizon, the sapphiresea of Loano.

BOISSANO

It is well worth hiking up the trail towardsMount Ravinet to see San Pietro deiMonti (altitude 900 m), whose presentstate does not convey the importanceof this monastery for a period of 600years during the Middle Ages. What is

striking is its silent ambience: scenicon sunny days, melancholy when the

Scirocco wind blows and the coastline belowis swallowed up by fog. Today there is a solitary,picturesque church in the woods, and it is theoffshoot of the monastery of San Pietro in Varatella,founded in the ninth century under Charlemagne.As legend would have it, St Peter stopped hereduring his rather roundabout journey to Rome andbuilt Liguria’s first church. The monastery heldenormous economic and political power in aboutthe year 1000. The monks from San Pietro civilisedthe region and owned property between Albengaand the Langhe area. They also helped improve theregion’s living conditions by promoting agriculturaland industrial development, introducing olive treesand vines and building flour and oil mills. Themonastery was abandoned in 1495 and fell intoruin. All that remains today is a little church that,every year on 1st May, is visited by a procession ofthe faithful from Toirano.

Buizan, prufümmude zærmi

An ancient monasterydedicated to St Peter

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The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

Boissano offers accommodationat Villa Graziella (guest houseand apartments), an invitinglittle building from the 1960slocated on the road up fromLoano, and at DanielaCremonini’s B&B in an oldstone house in the upper partof town.Hungry visitors can head to themodern Ristorante Pizzeria LeQuerce, on the road to Loano,or to the Trattoria Pizzeria LoSchicchero, at the edge of thetown centre.

Town Hall tel. 0182 98 010www.inforiviera.it/blu/boissano.cfm

B&B di Daniela Cremoninivia Gandolfi 26tel. 0182 98 517, 340 259 9960

Casa e appartamentiper vacanze Villa Graziella(holiday home and apartments)via Rive 41, tel. 0182 989 511

Ristorante Pizzeria le Quercevia Rive 3, tel. 0182 989 229

Trattoria Pizzeria lo Schiccherovia Cappella Nuova 11tel. 0182 98 511

BoissanoWhere, how and whenHospitable Boissano

the other riviera

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The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto ValleysToirano

Toirano is one of the oldest towns in Italy.Its population of 2000 boasts a history dating back atleast 12,000 years. How many caves are there in theVaratella Valley? As many as fifty, and some of themare where the prehistoric Ligurians lived, prayed andsocialised – as early as the last Ice Age.

TOIRANO

A town with 12,000 years of history

The Toirano caves are among the most important inItaly, and they are famous around the world. They wereused as dwellings by Palaeolithic peoples, and for shelterby cave bears. Today visitors can take a 1300-metretour through the caves. The Grotta della Bàsura (alsoknown as the Witches’ Grotto) is home to the bearcemetery, with Ursus spaeleus (cave bear) bones. Nearbythere is a corridor with footprints left by bears and themen who hunted them, and the hall of mysteries, whereour ancestors hurled clay balls against the cave walls,for some social or religious reason that has yet to beunderstood.The itinerary then goes to the lower grotto of SantaLucia, with its remarkable stalactites and stalagmites,and the upper one, with a fifteenth-century sanctuarythat was carved into the rock face by a miraculousspring. St Lucy is the patron saint of those with eyetrouble.

Caves of witches and saints

the other riviera

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Toirano

There is more to Toirano than narrowmediaeval streets and prehistoriccaves. The municipality of Toiranorises – or rather, climbs – up theVaratella Valley to Giogo di Toirano(the Toirano Pass, altitude 807 m),which links the area to the BormidaValley, on the Po side of the Rivieradelle Palme. Steep, winding andfull of hairpin bends, this 15-kilometre road is breathtaking withvistas of the barren, rocky valleyand of the Ligurian Sea, from Loanoto Corsica. It is well worth the trip to enjoythe scenery, visit the mountain town ofCarpe halfway up the road, and then hiketo the summit of Mount Carmo or gomushroom picking in the woods on the ridgeoverlooking the Bormida Valley.

And then we came out to see the starsagain… After visiting the caves, whynot wander through the mediaeval townof Toirano. The Byzantines fortified thetown during the sixth century, and whatremains of the walls are two gates, thetower houses, the moat and thebattlemented tower that is now the belltower of the church of San Martino. Themediaeval three-arched bridge over theVaratella is virtually intact. The townalso has brightly coloured twentieth-century murals, as well as the ValVaratella Ethnographic Museum, housedin the ancient stables of the Palazzo DelCarretto. At the museum, you’ll findeverything you want to know aboutToirano – and, naturally, any questionsare welcome.

Narrow streetsand museums The Toirano Pass

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The road less travelled… through a landscapeof green olive trees and yellow clusters of ripegrapes. This is the Strada del Vino e dell’Olio(Wine and Oil Road) that sets out from theolive groves of the province of Imperia, crossingthe Riviera delle Palme and the valleys of Loano and Pietra, towind its way through the area’s most picturesque hill towns,with stone oil mills and row after row of grapevines. Taggiascaand, above all, Pignola are the olive varieties used to make“Riviera Ligure del Ponente Savonese” PDO extra-virgin oliveoil, which has a slightly bitter flavour with an aftertastereminiscent of pine nuts. Pigato and Vermentino are the kingsof the local vineyards: Pigato owes its name to the word pigau,which means “stained” in the local dialect. Pigato is a whitewine that is perfect throughout the meal, with a distinctivemusky bouquet, straw-yellow colour, and a dry, slightly bitterpalate. Vermentino is a dry white with a delicate bouquet. Itis ideal as an aperitif, but it can also be served with Ligurianseafood appetisers, as well as frittata and vegetable dishes withcheese. Both wines should be served chilled but not icy cold.

The Wine and Oil Road

In the nineteenth centuryToirano had 25 oil mills,known locally as gumbi.There were industrialwater-powered gumbi, andsmaller domestic gumbettidriven by donkeys. The“Gumbi” Festival, held atthe beginning of August,is the most popular eventin Toirano. Visitors canstroll through the villageand taste oil, wine andfarinata, and purchaselocally made items at thecrafts show. Typical Toiranoproducts include focacciadi San Pietro, a variety ofthe Genoese pandolcecake, soft torrone nougat,and orange wine, which iswine fermented withorange peel.

the other riviera Toirano

The “Gumbi” Festival

To buy Toirano food specialities, look forA Butega di Carruggi in the old towncentre, or Le Delizie del Frantoio diSandra Rosciano, along the main roadheading down to Borghetto Santo Spirito.The Azienda Agricola Monte Acuto(farm), on the hillside near the FrantoioRosciano oil mill, sells rabbits andhas trout-fishing facilities. TheFrantoio Polla oil mill is locatedin the old town centre.

Toiranospecialities

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25


The Terre Alte Trial leads trekking aficionadosfrom Toirano up to Melogno Hill (altitude1028 m), through the mountain refuge ofPian delle Bosse (altitude 841 m) in theUpper Nimbalto Valley, and passing by theMaremola Valley. At Melogno Hill, the trailmerges with the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri –the “motorway” of the Ligurian mountains– and the main road connecting Finale withthe Upper Bormida Valley, crossing themarvellous beech forest of Calizzano. It isdivided into three stages: Toirano-Balestrino-Toirano, which takes about 3 1/2 hours;Toirano-Pian delle Bosse, about 4 1/2 hours;and Pian delle Bosse-Melogno, about 6hours. After your trek, if you still haveplenty of energy left and have fallen in lovewith the mountain scenery, you can continuealong the Alta Via to Melogno Hill, a three-hour hike through the quiet woods alongthe ridge of the Upper Bormida Valley.

If you plan to spend the nightin Toirano, accommodation is

available at the Albergo Ristorante LaStrega (hotel and restaurant), which alsoserves home-style food, and at the AlbergoRistorante Varatella (hotel and restaurant),uphill from the old town centre. The RistoranteA Xatta, which also has rooms to let, islocated downhill from the town centre andserves trofie pasta, snails and bagna caoda.Excellent food is also served at the RistoranteIl Ravanello Incoronato, the SpaghetteriaPizzeria Il Portico (in the caruggi, or narrowstreets), and the Pizzeria Toulà, which islocated in a lovely stone building with agarden, downhill from the old town centre.But you can also try the BruschetteriaBirreria Tecoteca (also a “tea-tasting” spot!)and La Piazza, or dig into the dishes preparedby the Bar Enoteca dei Capitani. Last butnot least, the Ristorante Al Giovo is wayup near the clouds, in the woods of theToirano Pass by the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri.

HospitableToirano

Trekking through themountains: the Terre Alte Trail

Town Hall tel. 0182 92 101www.inforiviera.it/blu/toirano.cfm

A Butega di Carruggi (local food specialities)via Mainero 35, tel. 0182 98 120

Albergo Ristorante La Stregavia Parodi 1, tel. 0182 98 074

Albergo Ristorante Varatellavia Provinciale 32, tel. 0182 98 078

Azienda Agricola Monte Acutoregione Leade, tel. 0182 989 097

Bar dei Capitani (wine bar)piazza San Martino 13

Bruschetteria Birreria Tecoteca La Piazzapiazza della Libertà 16

Frantoio Polla NicolòVia alle Mura 1, tel. 019 668 027

Caves of Bàsura and Santa Lucia Inferioreguided tours year-round; info 0182 98 062

the other riviera Toirano

ToiranoWhere, how and when

Le delizie del frantoiodi Sandra Rosciano(local food specialities)via Provinciale 1, tel. 0182 98 204

Val VaratellaEthnographic Museumvia Polla, tel. 0182 989 968,www.toirano.it/lacitta/musei.php

Pizzeria Toulàvia Maniero 47, tel. 0182 989 283

Ristorante al Giovovia per Bardineto, tel. 0182 941 789

Ristorante A Xattavia Mainero 33, tel. 019 98 192

Ristorante il Ravanello Incoronatovia G.B.Parodi 27, tel. 0182 921 991

Spaghetteria Pizzeria il Porticopiazza della Libertà 10tel. 0182 989 769

In the Varatella Valley, not far from thetown of Toirano, there are numerousDolomia rock towers, characterised byimpressive karst formations. The erosionof limestone has created natural caverns,modelling the stone and creating evidentand intriguing cliffs.This is a rough, wild and tormentedarea, but it is ideal for rock climbing.Since the rocks are located at an altitudeof just 150 to 460 metres above sealevel, climbing is also possible in winter.The Municipality of Toirano has set upa project that includes ten cliffs and225 different climbing routes, for a rangeof different levels of difficulty, from therock gym to very demanding climbingfacilities.This is a fascinating way to enjoy Alpinesports just a few kilometres from thesea: the perfect way to combine a seasideholiday with the opportunity toexperience the “Ligurian Dolomites”.

Climbing nearBàsure and Fene


The tangle of administrative structures thatgoverned the cities and towns of Liguria, bothwithin and outside the boundaries of the

Republic of Genoa, also included theindependent marquisate of Balestrino. Itwas a “concentric state”, that is, acompletely autonomous entity surroundedby the Genoese republic. The Bava family,

followed by the Del Carrettos, ruled this smallfeudal state until 1796, when Napoleon’s soldiers

wiped it off the map after pillaging the town and oppressingthe population. Nevertheless the small but long-livedmarquisate of Balestrino left a legacy to the modern-daytown of 500: the majestic castle-fortress that dominatesthe village and valley. According to local legend, wrongdoerswho managed to cling to the bars on its windows wereacquitted of their crimes. Who knows? Maybe this is theorigin of the term “everybody out”!

Balestrino

BALESTRINO

It looks like a Romanticpainting of ancient Romanruins set in a clearing, withyoung shepherds playing theflute. We’re talking about theancient Burgus Plebis ofBalestrino, built at the footof the castle. It wasabandoned because of itsunstable terrain, and is notopen to visitors due to therisk of collapse. Silent andbucolic, it has a disquietingair to it, even when viewedfrom above without settingfoot into it. Like true Romanruins, it is full of cats thatappear and then disappear,ghosts or patron saints ofthe town and its history.

Romantic ruins,crafty cats

The Marquis’ castle

the other riviera Balestrino

Balestrino is part of the Environmental Area ofPoggio Grande, which encompasses themunicipalities, territories and trails of the Varatellaand Neva Valleys. These hills are covered withscenic trails that are perfect for trekking andmountain biking. The Terre Alte Trail goes throughthe historical and archaeological sites in thevalley, and there are also numerous spots forparagliding. The modern sanctuary of Monte Croceis located in an extraordinarily scenic setting,on top of a 760-metre hill. On 5 October 1949,Our Lady appeared here to nine-year-old CaterinaRichero. The sanctuary can be reached on footor by car, via a dirt road that branches off fromthe main road to Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena.The nineteenth-century fort of Poggio Grande,located nearby, also affords a lovely view.

Inquisitive gourmets will find plenty tosatisfy their curiosity in Balestrino. Whynot start with ravioli con il faraballa, soft-wheat flour pasta with and a vegetablefilling, served with rabbit sauce. For a rusticand hearty one-course meal, try zemin, asoup of dried chickpeas and beans whichis simmered for hours, and served with thefat from pork rind and brine-packed pig’sfeet. Turtelin is made of cabbage, rice,dried sheep’s milk cheese and oil. Lastlythere’s panizza, a savoury cake made ofchickpea flour that is cut into squaresand dressed with oil, vinegar and pepper.And last but certainly not least, olive oil!Balestrino oil is a unique and exquisiteblend made from different olive varieties.

Trails and sanctuaries The cuisine of Balestrino

BalestrinoWhere, how and when


There are several places to stop in Balestrino: thefamous Ristorante La Greppia, the Albergo RistorantePastorino (hotel and restaurant) in the centre of the“Borgo”, and the Albergo Ristorante Cecchin (hoteland restaurant), which also has a lovely view of theruins of the old town. The Ristorante Residence Ca’de Berna (hotel and restaurant), which has a swimmingpool surrounded by trees, is located in the woodstowards Vecersio.The Frantoio Lotus oil mill, on the way into town fromLoano, sells oil and organic products.

A recipe from Balestrino:mutton stew

A stop in Balestrino

This hearty traditional dish is a favourite at thefestivals held in the squares of Balestrino. Tomake it, cut the mutton into chunks and placeit in a large pot full of boiling water. Boil themeat until all the water is absorbed and the meathas released all its fat. Mince some onion, garlicand parsley and brown them in local olive oil.Add the browned onion mixture to the meat, fillthe pot with water and white wine in equalproportions. Boil uncovered for 90 minutes,adding rosemary, sage and a few bay leaves.When the meat is almost done, add choppedpotatoes and a handful of olives. Buon appetito!

Town Hall tel. 0182 988 004www.inforiviera.it/blu/balestrino.cfm

Albergo Ristorante Pastorinovia Mazzini 4 and via Lucifredi 6tel. 0182 988 109, 0182 988 166

Albergo Ristorante Cecchinvia Provinciale 1tel. 0182 988 001

Frantoio Lotus(oil and organic products)via Panizzi 10, tel. 0182 988 078

Ristorante e Residence Ca' de Bernavia Provinciale 59, tel. 0182 991 985,0182 988 070, www.cadeberna.com

Ristorante La Greppiavia Lucifredi 9, tel. 0182 988 020

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The Bormida di Millesimoand Tànaro Valleys

North of the Po watershed in theBormida Valley, Liguria takes on aPiedmontese air. This is due not onlyto its geographical features, withrivers that flow towards the farawayPo, but to the very history of thisarea, which recounts the adventuresof the Marquises of Monferrato andthe Dukes of Savoy. The Piedmonteseculture has left its mark on thedialects and architecture of these hilltowns. The forests in this area yieldexquisite porcini mushrooms that arethe main attraction at local festivals.The Upper Bormida di Millesimo Valley,between Bardineto and Murialdo, isthe most Alpine part ofthe Riviera delle Palme.

Bardineto, with a population of over600 people, is the highest municipalityin the Bormida di Millesimo Valley. It isin the middle of a plateau of 25 squarekilometres, at an altitude of 700 metres.The area was inhabited during prehistorictimes, and the town itself was foundedby Enrico Del Carretto in the earlythirteenth century. The monks of SanPietro in Varatella established numerousironworks here. But Bardineto is mostfamous for its mushrooms, as visitorsare reminded by a sign at the entranceto the village. The National Festival ofthe Golden Mushroom is held here everyyear, and the local restaurants vie witheach other to come up with new recipesfor preparing porcini and ovoli (orCaesar’s mushrooms).

The Bardineto plateau boasts countlesscaves and mineral springs. Buranco diBardineto has two kilometres of undergroundpassages and tunnels, and it is the largestof the eighty caves explored in the area.It extends over several levels and isfascinating for a number of reasons, including itsunderground stream and the fact that it is the habitatof the Italian cave salamander. San Nicolò, set on arise near the road to the hill of Scravaion, hasByzantine-style frescoes and is one of the oldestchurches in the valley. The Fons Salutis spring, knownfor the purity of its water, is next to the church.

A taste of Piedmontin Liguria

BARDINETO

the other riviera

Caves and springs

The plateauof porcinimushrooms

Bardi

neto

Caliz

zano

Massim

ino

Murial

do

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Borghetto

Bardineto710 metres above sea level21 km from the A10 motorwayexit (Borghetto Santo Spirito)and 31 km from the A6 motorwayexit (Millesimo), 23 km from thesea (Borghetto Santo Spirito)

Calizzano650 metres above sea level25 km from the A6 motorwayexit (Millesimo) and 23 km fromthe A10 motorway (FinaleLigure), 26 km from the sea(Finale Ligure)

Massimino530 metres above sea level12 km from the A6 motorwayexit (Ceva), 41 km from the sea(Finale Ligure)

Murialdo520 metres above sea level11 km from the A6 motorwayexit (Millesimo), 40 km from thesea (Finale Ligure)

ata

wn


the other riviera Bardineto

32

Mushrooms need forests, and thisarea has trees aplenty! Oaks,hazels, chestnuts and beeches,conifers and birches cover 85%of the territory of Bardineto, andthey were exploited as far backas the early Middle Ages forlumber and charcoal. Here aswell, the Slow Food Presidiumfor “chestnuts dried in the tecci(rural stone buildings) ofCalizzano and Murialdo” protectsthe cultivation of chestnuts.Numerous forests and mountainsalso meanplenty ofhikingtrails, andBricPagliarinaoffers thebest viewof theplateau.

Visitors who want to spend the night or enjoy ameal in Bardineto can head to the Albergo RistoranteMaria Nella, which is part of the chain of “bikehotels”. This hotel/restaurant is located near thechurch, in what looks like an elegant mountaincondominium surrounded by fir trees. Food andaccommodation are also available at the AlbergoRistorante San Nicolò (hotel and restaurant) andthe Albergo Ristorante Monte Carmo (hotel andrestaurant), both of which are in the centre of town.The Albergo Ristorante Piccolo Ranch (hotel andrestaurant) is located at the beginning of ring roadcoming from Calizzano. Also in the old town centre:the Locanda Ristorante Da Teresa (hotel andrestaurant) and the Ristorante Pizzeria Bar de Nei.The Agriturismo Oddone is also nearby. This guestfarm is located next to the spectacular ruins of amediaeval castle, the Bormida Valley’s sole exampleof a sixteen-sided polygonal structure. It offersaccommodation and meals, and also sells meat, cheeseand vegetables. The Epsylon Residence (hotel) atVilla Frascheri is open on a seasonal basis; it has apublic swimming pool and is located out in the country.The Rifugio Alpino Le Collette is located along adirt road through the woods of a small valley westof the road for Scravaion Hill. This mountain refugeis ideal as a stopover for hikers travelling along theAlta Via dei Monti Liguri.

Staying in Bardineto

Woodsand chestnut trees

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The Bormida di Millesimo and Tànaro Valleys

Town Hall tel. 019 790 7013, www.inforiviera.it/blu/bardineto.cfm

Agriturismo Oddonevia Martino 13, loc. Castello, tel. 019 790 7115, 349 159 9301www.mangiareinliguria.it/oddone

Albergo Ristorante Maria Nellavia Cave 1, tel. 019 790 7017www.marianella.net

Albergo Ristorante Monte Carmovia V. Veneto 1, tel. and fax 019 790 7069

Albergo Ristorante Piccolo Ranchloc. Cascinasso 10, tel. 019 790 7038www.piccoloranch.biz

Albergo Ristorante San Nicolòvia Roascio 13, tel. 019 790 7022

Epsylon Residencevilla Frascheri, via Albareta 1/3, tel. 019 790 7504, [email protected]

Locanda Ristorante Da Teresapiazza Milite Ignoto 4, tel. 019 790 7223

Rifugio alpino Le Colletteloc. Collette, tel. 019 79 604

Ristorante Pizzeria Bar de Neipiazza Frascheri 1, tel. 019 790 7237

BardinetoWhere, how and when

The chestnut tree is known as erbu in many Ligurian dialects,and the fruit of this noble tree fed entire generations. Theflour made by grinding chestnuts is creamy beige in colourand has a unique fragrance.The first step in making chestnut flour involves drying thechestnuts. This is done in special drying houses, where aslow fire is kept going for days to dry the fruit. When thechestnuts have reached the perfect degree of moisture,they are “crushed”: this gets rid of the shell and the skin.Before the grinding process, any bad chestnuts are removedand, along with the waste from shelling the chestnuts, theyare used as pestumme, or livestock feed. The cleanedchestnuts are placed in a wooden hopper, and from herethey slide between two grindstones. Under the millstone,the dried chestnuts are thus transformed into flour with asweet, delicate aroma.

Chestnut flour: a traditional productfrom the Ligurian mountains

Bardineto is the perfectstarting point for bikingthrough the greencountryside… and downto the blue sea.The Alta Via dei MontiLiguri is just outsidetown, and all aroundthere are kilometres andkilometres of paved roadswith very little traffic, aswell as dirt trails –varying in difficulty –through the woods.

Mountainbiking

the other riviera Calizzano

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The ancient Communitas Calitiani also boasts Romanorigins. Today it is a farm town and holiday resort witha population of 1600, located in a broad wooded dellon the left bank of the River Bormida di Millesimo.Some of the houses here still have scàndole, smallwooden shingles that were used to cover the roofs.The ruins of the mediaeval castle of the Del Carrettofamily overlooks the village, with its long carruggio– the narrow street that cuts Calizzano in half –and its pretty coloured houses. Noteworthy sightsinclude the church of San Lorenzo, built on Romanesqueruins, and the fourteenth-century stone bell tower,which was once the tower of an ancient building.The sanctuary of Madonna delle Grazie near thecemetery has fascinating frescoes in dazzling colours,by fifteenth-century Piedmontese painters.The Municipality of Calizzano is quite large and hasnumerous hamlets: Caragna on the road to Murialdo;Frassino on the road to Melogno Hill; Mereta, amountain village with stone, brick and plaster buildingslocated on the road to Bardineto; and Vetria, apeaceful rural village on the road to the Piedmontregion and Garessio. The “Ciumbere” mineral springsare just outside of town.

The state-owned forest of Melogno is the pride ofCalizzano. This enormous forest is one of the reasonswhy the Bormida Valley is considered one of the mostextensively wooded areas in Italy. And the beech forestof Barbottina is the treasure and triumph of the MelognoForest: there are 40-metre-tall beeches with powerful,elegant trunks. One of them, which is nearly 190 yearsold, is listed among the monumental trees of Liguria.The beech forest is a fascinating sight. Tellingly,Barbottina is considered the finest beech forest inLiguria – and one of the loveliest in Italy.The best way to see the Melogno Forest is to hike alongthe Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. Nevertheless, a car ridealong the main road to Melogno Hill is also ideal fora spectacular view of the beauty and majesty of thesemagnificent trees. The forest is breathtaking in summer,when the dense foliage of the beeches conceals thebabbling brooks, but it is also magnificent when itdons the tawny hues of autumn.

CALIZZANO

“Communitas Calitiani”

Naturally! The municipaldistrict of Calizzano hasnumerous springs, and thewater is low in mineralcontent. Some of the wateris bottled and distributed inItaly, but there is plenty leftto allow tourists and localsto fill up bottles to takehome.Plans are in place to open ahiking trail linking all thelocal springs, enablingvisitors to discovery thewaters, which have differentsensory qualities andtherapeutic properties.

Thirteen clearwater springs

The loveliest beech forest in Liguria

35

Calizzano gets snow in winter, and the Scandinavian-likelandscapes that are created when the snow cloaks the forestare perfect for enjoying the hushed cross-country ski trail(this is the second trail in Liguria to obtain FISI recognition).

Nordic sports

The “chestnuts dried in the tecci ofCalizzano and Murialdo” areprotected by the Slow FoodPresidium, which safeguardsthe chestnuts of the BormidaValley. Also known as“Gabbiana” or “Garessina”chestnuts, they were once a staplefor the local people.Aside from its chestnuts and clear spring water, Calizzanohas a number of surprises in store for gourmets: an areacovered with healthy woodlands naturally has a wealth ofmushrooms – particularly porcini mushrooms. Fresh, packedin oil or dried, they are the pride of the local cuisine andhave now become famous around the world. Many of themushrooms gathered in the woods of Calizzano and theUpper Bormida Valley are dried or packed in oil and sentto the United States, Argentina, France and Germany.But porcini mushrooms are not the only local speciality.The cuisine of Calizzano also boasts polenta with leek sauceor vernari, rare freshwater fish, as well as strozzagatti, asoft, round lemony cake, and the famous home-style breadof the Bormida Valley, baked in a wood-burning oven.To discover the delicious produce of Calizzano, try Santamaria& C., which produces conserves and jams and is located inthe old town centre. Maria Perrone prepares mushrooms,jams, honey and sauces, and the Bottega dei Funghi diBarberis prepares mushrooms, dried tomatoes, oil-packedvegetables, and jams.The Azienda Agricola Maura Canova (farm) near Valle raiseslivestock and sells meat.

Calizzano: chestnutsand porcini mushrooms

Did you think chestnuts were just autumn fare? Calizzano proffers chestnuts toaficionados all year long. The two ice cream shops in this delightful mountaintown offer patrons chestnut ice cream – an original, new and healthy way to enjoythe prized age-old product of the Bormida Valley woodlands.

Calizzano delights:chestnut ice cream


the other riviera Calizzano

The crystalline air of Calizzano means you can enjoythe marvellous night-time display of millions of twinklingstars… But when you get sleepy, it’s time to head tothe Albergo Ristorante Miramonti (hotel and restaurant)in the very centre of town along the River Bormida, orto the nearby and centrally located Albergo RistoranteLux (hotel and restaurant) and Albergo RistoranteEden (hotel and restaurant). In Valle on the road toGaressio you’ll find “quality hotel” Albergo RistoranteVilla Elia (hotel and restaurant) and the AlbergoRistorante Capinera (hotel and restaurant).The Agriturismo Le Giaire guest farm is located in afarmhouse in the woods, offering accommodation andLigurian food – certified by “Slow Food” – as well as asauna and archery facilities. Local food specialities arealso sold here. Other ideas: the Campeggio con RistoranteLaghetti, a campsite-cum-restaurant along the Frassinotorrent but near the centre of town; the B&B Semplicità,near the Carabinieri station; and the B&BAgrituristico La Brinetta, a guest farm bythe woods and meadows of Frassino.Maurizio Franco has rooms to let in therural village of Mereta.

The culinary delights of Calizzanoare served in the local hotelrestaurants, but they can beenjoyed at the Ristorante ilPortico delle Bazure, near thechurch of San Lorenzo, at theOsteria I Gatti alla Luna (inn),near the playing field, or – inthe modern part of the towncentre – at the RistorantePizzeria Odissea, the TavolaFredda Bar Nuovo Sandro ePaola and the Pizzeria La Verna.The homely Trattoria deiCacciatori is located in Mereta,and the Ristorante La Baita can

stoke the appetites of thosewho, by car or hiking

along the Alta Via deiMonti Liguri, haveventured to theforts guarding

Melogno Hill.

Staying in Calizzano Dining in Calizzano


Town Hall tel. 019 790 691www.inforiviera.it/blu/calizzano.cfm

Affittacamere Maurizio Francofraz. Mereta 29, tel. 019 53 683

Agriturismo Le Giairereg.Giaire 24r, tel. 019 79 349338 639 8678, www.legiaire.it

Albergo Ristorante Capineraloc. Valle, reg. Tomaloni, tel. 019 79 510

Albergo Ristorante Edenvia Leale 7, tel. 019 79 676, [email protected]

Albergo Ristorante Luxvia Leale 3, tel. 019 79 594

Albergo Ristorante Miramontivia 5 Martiri 6, tel. 019 79 604

Albergo Ristorante Villa Elialoc. Valle 26, tel. 019 79 633www.villaelia.it

Azienda agricola Maura Canova(local meat)borgo verso Valle, tel. 019 79 198

B&B agrituristico La Brinettavia Frassino 84, tel. 019 79 [email protected]

B&B Semplicitàvia G.Ivaldo 9, tel. 019 790 6126www.band.ligure.it

CalizzanoWhere, how and when

Campeggio con Ristorante Laghettivia Carisciano 12, tel. 019 79 175

La Bottega dei funghi di Barberis(local food specialities)via G.B. Pera 40tel. and fax 019 79 642

Maria Perrone (local food specialities)via G.B. Pera 51, tel. 019 79 637

Osteria I Gatti alla Lunapiazza San Rocco, tel. 019 79 310

Pizzeria La Vernavia 25 Aprile 2, tel. 019 79 550

Ristorante il Portico delle Bazurevia Santa Rosalia 10,tel. 019 790 4020

Ristorante la Baitavia Melogno 3, tel. 019 64 180

Ristorante Pizzeria Odisseavia Leale 1, tel. 019 79 359

Santamaria & C. (local food specialities)via Trento e Trieste 12, tel. 019 790 6065

Tavola fredda Bar NuovoSandro e Paolavia Leale, tel. 019 79 706

Trattoria dei Cacciatorivia Provinciale 12, Mereta,tel. 019 790 7243

Ingredients: 500g chestnut flour, 50g pine nuts,100g raisins, oil, fennel seeds, salt.Soak the raisins in warm water for 15 minutes. Sift theflour into a bowl and add a pinch of salt. Using awhisk, slowly stir in enough water to make a thinbatter. Grease a cake tin with 2 tablespoons of oil andpour the batter into it. Drizzle a little more oil overthe top and stir. Drain the raisins and sprinkle themover the cake with the pine nuts and fennel seeds.Bake at 180°C in the top part of the oven. When thetop forms a thin crust with a few cracks in it, removethe cake from the oven.

A recipe from Portico delle Bazuredi Calizzano: castagnaccio cake

the other riviera Massimino

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With just 125 people, Massimino, located in theUpper Tànaro Valley, is one of the smallestmunicipal districts in Liguria. It is accessiblefrom the Bormida di Millesimo Valley throughthe Giovetti Hill (altitude 912 m). Although itis located on a slope overlooking a valley of thePiedmont region, Massimino is Ligurian. At theturn of the fifteenth century, the marquises ofMonferrato ceded it to the Del Carretto of Finale,and in 1713 it was purchased by Genoa, whichwas interested in its advanced strategic position.Today Massimino is a peaceful hill town colouredby the blossoms of the rose gardens that flourishnear its houses, and it is dotted with the ancientchurches that can also be seen in its woodlands.San Vincenzo and the oratory of San VincenzoFerreri are in the old town centre; Sant’AntonioAbate, which is extremely old, and the lovelychurch of San Giuseppe, with three altars, areat the foot of castle ruins; the parish church ofSan Giovanni Battista, in Costa, is also veryancient.

MASSIMINO

One of Liguria’s smallestmunicipalities

39


Town Hall tel. 019 79 944www.inforiviera.it/blu/massimino.cfm

Albergo Ristorante Belvederevia Statale 2, loc. Tamborlino 12, Giovettitel. and fax 019 79 570

Ristorante la Taverna Anticavia Nazionale 5, tel. 019 79 950

Castellane are large vegetable-filled ravioli. Mince someonion, rosemary and parsley, and brown in oil. Boilsome chard or spinach (depending on the season).When cooked, add the chard or spinach to the brownedmixture. Stir in a fair amount of ricotta. When themixture is cool, add whole eggs, plenty of parmesancheese, salt and pepper. Use the filling to stuff theravioli – which must be made strictly by hand! Cookthe ravioli for a few minutes in boiling salted water.Drain and toss with butter, sage and cheese, or a blendof cheeses melted in cream to make a smooth sauce.

In Massimino, visitorscan stay at the AlbergoRistorante Belvedere,close to the woodedGiovetti Hill, and dineat the elegantRistorante La TavernaAntica, located in thecentre of town near thechurch and the townhall.

The chestnut alsoreigns supreme inthe forests ofMassimino. The localchestnut groves,which have virtuallybeen abandonedtoday, are protectedby the Slow FoodPresidium for“chestnuts dried in

the tecci of Calizzano and Murialdo”. Hikers willenjoy crossing the woods and meadows, takingthe old “salt road”, and mountain bikers canpedal along the MTB Cross-Country Trail.

Protectedchestnuts

A recipe from Albergo Belvederein Massimino: castellane pasta

Hotels andrestaurants

MassiminoWhere, how and when

Five hamlets with a total population of 900, andother now-abandoned villages in the woods of theUpper Bormida di Millesimo Valley. This is Murialdo,the ancient Murus Altus that Napoleon – exaggerating– said was bigger than Paris. The remains of the oldcity walls and the thousand-year-old castle on thehill of Costa document Murialdo’s feudal past, andof its 21 sacred buildings, churches and chapelsthat bear witness to its religious devotion. A visitto the parish church of San Lorenzo at Ponte is amust: built in 1445, it also encompasses a fourteenth-century door with sandstone relief work, severalfifteenth-century frescoes, a terracotta rose window,a bell tower with double lancet windows, and amediaeval baptismal font.

The Wilderness Area of MountCamulera or Bric Zionia covers anextensive wild, uninhabited forest.It fits in with the concept ofWilderness Areas, whose goal is topreserve places with few traces ofhuman settlements that still haveall the features of a wild, pristinelandscape. And this is undoubtedlyone of the most intriguing unspoiltareas in Italy.

Life as it once was in Murialdo, in thehomes of its farming community, isdocumented at the “C’era una volta”Museum in the hamlet of Riofreddo.The museum – its name means “onceupon a time” – was set up in anseventeenth-century ironworks. Herepeople “versify on the slopes of MountCamulera”, with poetic compositionssculpted in the walls of the square andwritten to celebrate the natural beautyof this small but enchanting region.At the municipal headquarters in Piano,there is an interesting exhibitionthat provides a detailed illustrationof the town’s entire environmentaland artistic heritage, as well as itseconomic and crafts activities.

Murus Altus

Once upon a time…

“Each town should havea piece of land like this,left uncultivated”(Cesare Pavese)

MURIALDO

the other riviera Murialdo

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... these delicacies? At theAlbergo Osteria del Borgo diRiofreddo (inn and restaurant),up at the summit andsurrounded by chestnut trees,or at the Miky Bar RistorantePonte, in the village of Ponte,which organises tastings oftypical local specialities. Theseproducts can be purchased atthe nearby Minimarket di RitaAlba Giacosa, which sellsformaggette cheese, junket,blueberries, chestnuts andhoney. Silvana Rubino, inAlberghetti, makes honey, andEugenio Icardo, in the villageof Baduoli, grows splendid rowsof organic blueberries in thewoods (worth seeing!).If you’re looking for an unusualplace to stay, try the CastelloBonetti, atop a wooded hilloverlooking the river: it lookslike the castle of the Unnamedfrom Manzoni’s masterpiece TheBetrothed.

Murialdo is a land of fields and forests: potatoes,mushrooms, peaches and chestnuts grow here,and the woods provide raw materials for lumberand handmade paper.Though chestnuts are no longer a staple for themountain people, steps have been taken tomaintain the remaining chestnut groves. TheSlow Food Presidium for “chestnuts dried inthe tecci of Calizzano and Murialdo” protectslocal chestnuts, mainly the Gabbina (or Gabbiana)variety, which are eaten dried or are used inbiscuits, conserves, sweet spreads and ice cream.The tecci in which the fruit is dried were – andare – buildings used seasonally by woodsmento store their tools or seek shelter for the night.The term is Latin in origin and comes from theword tego, meaning to cover or protect. Thedrying houses, or tecci, are small stone buildingswith just one room and a shingled roof. Inside,about 2 or 3 metres from the floor, there is aceiling made of a wooden grate, called a graia,which holds the chestnuts. On the floor of theteccio, a low fire is kept burning constantly,stoked with chestnut branches or hulls. Chestnutsare placed on the grate, where they are driedby the heat and smoke rising from the fire. Thesmoking process takes about two months. Thechestnuts are turned every so often in order toinvert the top and bottom layers and ensureuniform smoking. After this operation, calledthe girata, the chestnuts are exposed to thesmoke again for 5 to 10 days, and then they arecrushed to remove the shell.At Christmas the best, biggest chestnuts areused to make viette. Dried chestnuts are boiledfor 5 hours in a pot with a weight set on it tokeep them submerged. Prepared this way, theytaste like candied fruit. Naturally, much of thedried fruit is ground and the chestnut flour isused to prepare delicious specialities.

Chestnuts dried in tecciand other delicacies

Where canwe taste…


The Upper Bormida Valley, and aboveall the Riofreddo hamlet of Murialdo,is famous for fazzino or lisone, a softpotato focaccia garnished withonions, garlic, oil, eggs, leeks… andwhatever takes your fancy.The aromatic herbs from the woodsaround Murialdo are used to preparea liqueur called Spingitutto, a digestifthat closely resembles Genepy butis not as strong (it has an alcoholcontent of 30%).

Other delicaciesfrom Murialdo

Town Hall tel. 019 53 543www.inforiviera.it/blu/murialdo.cfm

Affittacamere Castello Bonetti(rooming house)Case Bonetti, tel. 019 53 893, 339 711 3070

Albergo Osteria del Borgofraz. Riofreddo, tel. 019 53 505

Eugenio Icardo (blueberries)borgata Tabadoli, tel. 019 53 993

Miky Bar Ristorante PonteBorgata Ponte, tel. 019 53 610333 216 4504

Minimaket di Rita Alba Giacosalocal food specialitiesvia Ponte 9, tel. 019 53 540

“C’era una volta” Museum in Riofreddotel. 019 53 873, 019 958 [email protected]

Silvana Rubino (honey)borgata Torricella, tel. 019 53 658

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MurialdoWhere, how and when

the other riviera Murialdo

The valleys between Borgio Verezziand Borghetto Santo Spirito

the other riviera

Finale Ligure

Capo Caprazoppa

L. Osiglia

T. Maremola

T. Va

rate

llo

Bormida di Millesim

o

T. Sc

arin

cio

T. Pora

T. Ni

mba

lto

T. NevaBormida di Pàllare

i

A10

Borgio

Pietra LigureLoanoBorghetto

Santo SpiritoCeriale

A10

ERLI

Toirano Boissano

Balestrino

VerziRanzi

Verezzi

Giustenice

TovoSan Giacomo

Magliolo

Bardineto

Calizzano

Massimino

San Bernardo

Gorra

Olle

BardinoNuovo

BardinoVecchio

Isallo

Peagna

ZuccarelloCastelvecchio

di Roccabarbena

Erli

GaressioPriola Bagnasco Noceto

Ceva

Murialdo

Osiglia

San Lorenzo

San Michele

Pianazzo

Canova

Madonnadella Guardia

Perti

Carpe

Monte Sotta1204

Colle Melogno1028

Bormida

Monte Settepani1386

Ormea

Calvi

IMPE

RIA

VENT

IMIG

LIA

ORCO FEGLINO

NOLIGENOVA

PALLARE

Monte Spinarda1357

Bec Agnellino1335

Monte Carmo1389

Monte Ravinet1061

Poggio Grande813

Monte Guardiola735

Monte Alpe1056

Rocca Barbena1142

Bric Tencione1191

Monte Galero1708

Bric Aguzzo1079

Pian delle Bosse880

Vercesio

Grottedi Toirano

Monte Camulera1224

Ponte

S.S.1

S.S.1

A6

490

47

490

52

44

582

Colle Giovetti912

Riofreddo

Giogo di Toirano

Monte Acuto728

Colle Scravaion814

Editorial production: M&R Comunicazione - GenovaTexts: Gian Antonio Dall’AglioEditing: Fabrizio CalziaEnglish translation: Polylingua EnterprisesGraphic design and make-up: Alessia MassariMap and illustrations: Marco FerrarisPhotography: Archivio APT Riviera delle Palme, Archivio M&R, Fabrizio Calzia, Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio,Alessia Massari, Federico Panzano. Thanks to the Municipality of Magliolo for permission to publishthe photograph.Printing: Algraphy – Genova

© 2004, Azienda di Promozione Turistica Riviera delle Palme

This guide describes each valleyof the territory along routes thatgo “municipality bymunicipality”. Each area includesdifferent topics highlighted bysymbols and a colour code:

The territory map uses these symbols:

Art and History

How to consult this guide

the other riviera

Wine, Oil,Distillates

Sport

Harbour Restaurant Bed&BreakfastWineMonument Hotel Typical productsand guest farm

Olives and oil

WalksBeach Plantsand flowers

Honey RidingOrganicfarming

Information andUseful Numbers

Nature and Sport

Gastronomy

Accommodation

Locality

Alassio & Le Baie del Sole

Alassio (17021)Via Mazzini, 68tel. 0182 647 027 - fax 0182 647 874e-mail: [email protected] (17031)Piazza Corridoni, 11tel. 0182 558 444 - fax 0182 558 740e-mail: [email protected] (17051)Via Aurelia, 122/a - Villa Lauratel. 0182 681 004 - fax 0182 681 807e-mail: [email protected] (17023)Via Aurelia, 224/atel. 0182 993 007 - fax 0182 993 804e-mail: [email protected] (17033) seasonalVia Roma, 1tel. e fax 0182 582 114e-mail: [email protected] (17053)Via Roma, 2tel. 0182 690 059 - fax 0182 691 798e-mail: [email protected] (17037)Piazza IV Novembre, 11tel. e fax 0182 547 423e-mail: [email protected] d’Albenga (17038)seasonalVia Garibaldi, 5tel. e fax 0182 582 498e-mail: [email protected]

Il Loanese & Il Pietrese

Borghetto Santo Spirito (17052)Piazza Libertà, 1tel. e fax 0182 950 784e-mail: [email protected] Verezzi (17022)seasonalVia Matteotti, 158tel. e fax 019 610 412e-mail: [email protected] (17025)Corso Europa, 19tel. 019 676 007fax 019 676 818e-mail: [email protected] Ligure (17027)Piazza San Nicolò, 36tel. 019 629 003fax 019 629 790e-mail: [email protected] (17055)Piazzale Grottetel. 0182 989 938fax 0182 984 63e-mail: [email protected]

Il Finalese

Bardineto (17057) seasonalPiazza della Chiesa, 6tel. 019 790 72 28 - fax 019 790 72 93e-mail: [email protected] (17042) seasonalVia Aurelia - tel. e fax 019 859 777e-mail: [email protected] (17057) seasonalPiazza San Rocco - tel. e fax 019 791 93e-mail: [email protected] Ligure (17024)• Finalmarina - Via San Pietro, 14tel. 019 681 019 - fax 019 681 804e-mail: [email protected]• Finalborgo seasonalPiazza Porta Testatel. 019 680 954 - fax 019 681 57 89e-mail: [email protected] (17017)Piazza Italia, 27tel. 019 560 00 78 - fax 019 560 09 70e-mail: [email protected] (17026)Corso Italia, 8 - tel. 019 749 90 03 - fax 019 749 93 00e-mail: [email protected] (17028)Piazza Matteotti, 6tel. 019 741 50 08 - fax 019 741 58 11e-mail: [email protected] (17029) seasonalVia Aurelia, 79 - tel. 019 698 013 - fax 019 698 88 42e-mail: [email protected]

Il Savonese & Il Varazzino

Albissola Marina (17012)Albisola Superiore (17013)Passeggiata E. Montale, 21tel. 019 400 20 08 - fax 019 400 30 84e-mail: [email protected] Ligure (17015)Via Boagno - Palazzo Comunaletel. 019 990 021 - fax 019 999 97 98e-mail: [email protected] (17040) seasonalPiazza Indipendenza, 1tel. 019 705 001 - fax 019 705 269e-mail: [email protected] (17046) seasonalVia G.B. Badano, 45tel. 019 724 020 - fax 019 723 832e-mail: [email protected] (17100)Corso Italia, 157 rtel. 019 840 23 21 - fax 019 840 36 72e-mail: [email protected] (17019)Via Matteotti, 56 - Palazzo Beato Jacopotel. 019 935 043 - fax 019 935 916e-mail: [email protected]

free

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Head officeAlassio (17021) - Viale Gibb, 26tel. 0182 647 11 - fax 0182 644 690www.inforiviera.ite-mail: [email protected]

Information and Tourist Reception Offices - I.A.T.

THE VALLEYS BETWEEN BORGIO AND BORGHETTO SANTO SPIRITO The

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Transcript of THE VALLEYS BETWEEN BORGIO AND BORGHETTO SANTO SPIRITO The