The South of France - Green's Warehouse Discount Beverages · The south of France, which in my...

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Extraordinary Wines from Southern France View this email in your browser The South of France The south of France, which in my estimation encompasses the regions of the Southern Rhone, Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, and Southwest France, is simultaneously one of the most dynamic collectives in the wine world yet also one of its most daunting. On one hand the wines from this sprawling area, reflective of its Mediterranean positioning, inherently offer the ripe fruit flavors and soft, full-bodied structure that the consumers seek out in this day and age (with some striking exceptions, of course), and at the generally keen price points that doesn’t make one think twice. Yet on the other hand these remain wines – as is the case with the rest of France – that present the often-times confusing, intimidating, and detached nomenclature of Old World labeling. The quality level below the appellation wines, known traditionally Vin de Pays (regional wines), are not encumbered by the same decrees that rule over the former, and as such happily display the name of the varietal on the label; predictably enough, these wines have found a receptive audience worldwide. But to only venture forth with these wines would be to deny yourself of the real treasures within the south of France. My advice? Go explore. You’ll likely find just the style of wine you were looking for, or you may come across something different and unexpected…what I do know for certain is that what you do find will be worth trying.

Transcript of The South of France - Green's Warehouse Discount Beverages · The south of France, which in my...

Page 1: The South of France - Green's Warehouse Discount Beverages · The south of France, which in my estimation encompasses the regions of the Southern Rhone, Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon,

Extraordinary Wines from Southern France View this email in your browser

The South of FranceThe south of France, which in my estimation encompasses the regions of theSouthern Rhone, Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, and Southwest France, is

simultaneously one of the most dynamic collectives in the wine world yet also one ofits most daunting. On one hand the wines from this sprawling area, reflective of itsMediterranean positioning, inherently offer the ripe fruit flavors and soft, full-bodied

structure that the consumers seek out in this day and age (with some strikingexceptions, of course), and at the generally keen price points that doesn’t make onethink twice. Yet on the other hand these remain wines – as is the case with the rest

of France – that present the often-times confusing, intimidating, and detachednomenclature of Old World labeling. The quality level below the appellation wines,known traditionally Vin de Pays (regional wines), are not encumbered by the same

decrees that rule over the former, and as such happily display the name of thevarietal on the label; predictably enough, these wines have found a receptive

audience worldwide. But to only venture forth with these wines would be to denyyourself of the real treasures within the south of France. My advice? Go explore.

You’ll likely find just the style of wine you were looking for, or you may come acrosssomething different and unexpected…what I do know for certain is that what you do

find will be worth trying.

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Locations F2Green’s Cash Sale Price:

The Non-Vintage Locations F-2 French Red Wine is all from the 2012 vintage and is a blend ofGrenache from the Roussillon, Syrah from the Rhone Valley and assorted Bordeaux varieties. It

was fermented in large oak vats and aged in barrel for ten months prior to bottling. A denseruby/purple color is followed by a big, sweet kiss of licorice, black currants and camphor. Deep,

full-bodied and ripe (but not over-ripe), it possesses good freshness, vibrancy and delineation aswell as a juicy, in-your-face style. These wines are all meant to be drunk upon release, but

enough stuffing is present that they should evolve for 4-5 years. If there are better wines for under$20 a bottle in the world today, please share that information with The Wine Advocate! 91 points. -

Wine Advocate

Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2011Green’s Cash Sale Price:

A densely packed red, offering a ganache frame to the singed orange peel, tobacco, freshespresso and mulled fig and currant fruit flavors. Strong juniper and bittersweet cocoa notes line

the finish. A gutsy style, showing good cut. Best from 2015 through 2023. 300 cases imported. 92points. -Wine Spectator

Victor Costieres de Nimes 2011

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A wine whose provenance straddles the territorial line between the Southern Rhone and theLanguedoc, this comes across as a Cotes-du-Rhone of a higher order. The varietal mix is fairly

unusual here by Southern Rhone standards: the Syrah and Mourvedre both represent 40% of theblend, with 20% balance going towards Grenache. Classic aromas of raspberry, lavender and

licorice inform this wine, with the soft tannins and medium-plus body that make it one of the moreversatile styles around.

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Bandol

La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2011Green’s Cash Sale Price:

The 2011 Bandol offers up a similar, traditionally styled personality with ample spice, underbrush,ground herbs and assorted Mourvedre meatiness that’s balanced by beautiful black cherry and

darker fruits. Medium to full-bodied, with juicy acidity and a fresh, focused feel, it will benefit fromshort term cellaring and have upwards of two decades of overall longevity. These impressive

efforts are made by Michel and Louis Bronzo, who purchased the estate in 1970. 93 points. -WineAdvocate

Gigondas & Vacqueyras

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Domaine la Tete Noire Gigondas 2012Green’s Cash Sale Price:

It bears in mind to consider the situation of the vineyards in Gigondas, especially in comparisonwith those of Chateauneuf-du-Pape; whereas the latter is renowned for the galet (heat-absorbing

stones, for all intents and purposes found exclusively in CdP’s vineyards, the former produceswine of a higher pedigree due to the heat-trapping nature of theirs, located in the shadow of theDentelles de Montmirail mountains. The result from capable hands can be every bit the heady,

meat-tinged powerhouse that defines the sensation of CdP, with even the most exquisite versions(read: this is one of them) at a price point considered especially keen by the latter’s standards.

The Domaine la Tete Noire gives notes of dark brambly fruit, grilled meat, and herbs, with aremarkable depth and concentration that distinguish it from being a mere emulator.

Cuvee Prestige Vacqueyras 2012

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The Vacqueyras appellation lies in-between CdP and Gigondas, separated from the former by asplattering of vineyards that only qualify for the generic Cotes-du-Rhone appellation. The mid-teens retail is lower than average – this is the price one expects to pay for a decent but basicCote-du-Rhone, much less a cru of the southern region. The wines from here are, generally

speaking, more restrained than the ones of Gigondas, perhaps offering more a strong glimpse ofa higher order – this has every bit the spice and garrigue you’d expect, nonetheless – than being

truly analogous to it. Again, consider the price point, and choose to start here after you’ve hadyour fill of Cotes-du-Rhone & Cotes-du-Rhone Villages.

Les Trois Couronnes Cotes-du-Rhone 2013

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The Cotes-du-Rhone moniker in its most basic form spans the entire spectrum in regards toquality; the trick is to find the truly worthy ones from everything that’s out there. The Les Trois

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Couronnes (“The Three Crowns”) Côtes-du-Rhône is a soft, full wine in the classic tradition, withadmirably complex aromas of strawberry, blueberry, lavender, tea and earth. It offers a generous

mouthfeel with the ripe, fine-grained tannins one expects from better iterations. The finish ispersistent, with lingering notes of red fruit and tobacco leaf.

Languedoc

Les Darons Languedoc 2012Green’s Cash Sale Price:

Incidentally, Les Darons translates colloquially to “the parents”, and is supposedly in reference tothe homage this wine is paying to the classic Languedoc style. Well in terms of the varietal mix itcertainly does resemble the classic southern French blend, with its traditional reliance on old-vine

Grenache and Carignan (average of 40+ years in this case), and a minor but importantcontribution from one of the “improving varieties” (an actual French term for an entire host of

grapes that are deemed especially noble) – in this case Syrah. The more contentious aspect isthe use of oak, or more accurately its non-use; traditional winemaking here eschewed new oak if it

used any at all, a reflection of the humble fare being produced – as winemaking has continuallyimproved the unoaked style is now considered THE classic style. Wild strawberries, plum,

lavender & tobacco leaf are the major characteristics here, with the trademark spicy backboneand mineral finish; unencumbered by oak, one should finally conclude.

Chateau Puech-Haut St. Drezery Prestige 2011

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The provenance here is St. Drezery, an official “terroir” of the Languedoc appellation, and thus –wait for it – allowed to be written on the label. The area is home to the Chateau Puech-Haut

estate, known as one of the more ambitious ones even within an area that is increasingly dynamic

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in its overall winemaking approach. If the Les Darons can be considered classic Languedoc letthis stand in as a prime example of the new school, and meant in every sense of the term. Not a

subtle wine by any means, but a wonderful one nonetheless. Glyceral rich and full, this wine’s14.5% alcohol is thankfully scarcely detectable as warmth in a finish than manages to be bothsoothing and stimulating. An outstanding value, it ought to continue satisfying for at least 3-4

years. 91 points. -Wine Advocate

Domaine Anne Gros “Les Fontanilles” Minervois 2012Green’s Cash Sale Price:

The grapes that go into this traditional southern French blend – Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, andCinsault – are planted amongst the wild terrain of the Languedoc, on complex soils that ultimatelyplay their part in the pedigree of this wine. Minervois is one of the better-known appellations of theSouth of France, relatively-speaking. The winemaking team here is Anne Gros & Jean Paul Tollot

- both of Burgundian fame - who together has taken their winemaking perspective to theircountry’s south. Strawberries, musk, and garrigue on the nose, its herbal undertones extending to

notes of raspberry, tobacco, and a long savory finish – a vibrant, complex wine.

Gerard Bertrand “La Clape” L’Hospitalet Rouge 2011 Green’s Cash Sale Price:

The appellation here is Coteaux de Languedoc – La Clape, the wine a blend of Syrah, Grenache,and Mourvedre. The “Chateau L’Hospitalet” line within the Gerard Bertrand portfolio is of singular

quality, with stress being on the purest expression of terroir – from vineyard management towinemaking practices. The grapes here are grown on reclaimed land previously allowed to growwild with garrigue, with the wine itself offering up deep notes of blueberry, kirsch, anise and black

pepper, all of it aligned with a chalky complexity that needs to be tasted to be understood. Awonderful wine.

Gerard Bertrand “Jefferson Cuvee” Cremant de Limoux Rose

(not pictured)Green’s Cash Sale Price:

A superlative sparkler from a southern French powerhouse producer, the Limoux appellation itselfis arguably the oldest one for sparkling wine in the world, dating from the early 16th century whenthe monks of St.-Hilaire accidently allowed a secondary fermentation in bottle (and which the sub-

appellation Blanquette de Limoux Methode Ancestrale supposedly still faithfully follows in itswinemaking regiment). The Cremant de Limoux appellation is focused on more modern

sensibilities, employing Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and some Pinot Noir for the rose tinge. Notesof raspberry, apple peel, lemon rind, honeysuckle & hints of toast inform the soft, persistent

mousse here; the Jefferson Cuvee moniker is an homage to the nation’s 3rd president,supposedly an early admirer of the wine.

Roussillon

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Domaine Lafage “Centennaire” Cotes du Roussillon Blanc 2013Green’s Cash Sale Price:

One of the most sought-after winemakers of Europe at the moment - Jean-Marc Lafage - lendshis expertise with Southern European varietals to several top estates in both France and Spain

(he makes Evodia and Novellum with Eric Solomon among other custom cuvee projects).However, his best work is perhaps at…his estate in the hills of the Roussillon with his wife, Eliane,

also a highly accomplished winemaker. The blend here is 80% Grenache Blanc/Gris, 20%Roussanne, all organically-farmed. The name “Centennaire” refers to the age of vines for this

wine…100+ years old. 2011 Vintage - 92 points, The Wine Advocate

Domaine Lafage “Nicolas” Cotes Catalanes Cuvee 2012Green’s Cash Sale Price:

The 2012 Cotes Catalanes Cuvee Nicolas is an off-the-hook value. Named after Jean-Marc’s sonand made from 100% Grenache from higher elevation sites in the Aspres region, fermented with20% stems and aged half in demi-muid, it offers layers of kirsch, underbrush, licorice and seriousfloral notes in its medium to full-bodied, elegant and seamless profile. Getting a big “wow” in the

notes and showing fine tannin and serious length, it should be snatched up by savvy readers andconsumed over the coming 3-4 years. 93 points. -Wine Advocate

Gerard Bertrand Banyuls 2009

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Many consider Banyuls to be the finest Vin Doux Naturel (sweet fortified wine) in all of France,and they have an argument. The grape here is Grenache, mostly Noire with perhaps some Gristhrown in, and harvesting is done completely by hand. The fermentation is halted by the addition

of grape spirits mere days after it begins, although maceration of the wine on its grape skinscontinues for up to three weeks – the result is a wine that tows the elusive balance of richness &

substance against the natural delicate grape sweetness retained by the process. Pouring ruby-red

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in color, this wine offers rich notes of raisins, baked fruit, orange peel, and roast meat, and isevocative of fruitcake and caramel on the finish. A sweet wine of a truly higher order.

Southwest France

Chateau Haut-Montplaisir Cahors 2011Green's Cash Sale Price:

The grape here is Malbec, better known in modern times as Argentina’s own, but which in realityoriginated from this southwest French enclave, located southeast of Bordeaux. In Bordeaux thegrape was never a primary one (unlike its South American stablemate Carmenere, which in fact

also originated in the southwest France area), and its sphere of influence was confined to itsplace of origin until the mid-late 19th century. Yet in Cahors it is a wine of legend, known

dauntingly as the “black wine of Cahors” since the early 19th century and being of note since theMiddle Ages, but which in fact gained the last levels of its pitch black hue from the actual boiling of

the must before fermentation. A proper Cahors, more medium-bodied than its Argentineaniterations and with an earthy rusticity that may strike a Mendoza enthusiast as startling, is oftensoftened by Merlot (Cabernet Sauvignon & Franc are forbidden here), with the most ambitiousthese days having more of that New World character to them than ever before. Consider the

Haut-Monplaisir then as one that does a fine job of straddling the line – its concentrated notes ofblueberry, tea, and spice running counterpoint to the savory, animal notes of tradition. The

regional pairing here is traditional French farmhouse fare (think foie, and think duck), and it is anapt one.

Vin de Pays

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Orin Swift D66 2012Green’s Cash Sale Price:

What’s an Orin Swift wine doing here? You may ask…well the truth is this wine has as muchpedigree as any worthy iteration coming from the Roussillon, made under the regional Vin de

Pays des Cotes Catalanes. In the words of the Orin Swift winemaking team themselves…In France, the “department” exists as an administrative division much like a county does in

America. Deep in the Southwest corner of the country lies Department 66, which serves as theinspiration and namesake for our winery and vineyards in the town of Maury. Roughly two hours

east of Barcelona, Spain and thirty minutes inland from the ancient Roman port city of Perpignan,old vine Grenache thrives…

And the wine itself? Deep, heavy notes of strawberry, violets, and black pepper, and an equallyopulent mouthfeel – this is in all respects an uncompromisingly big wine, and fortunately enough

the style of wine most seek out these days. But what do others think?

…a blend of 80% Grenache, 12% Syrah and 8% Carignan (from 60- to 100-year-old vines),comes from the schist and limestone soils around the village of Maury. Aged in 100% French oak(25% new), this 10,000-case cuvee retails for around $43 a bottle, but I suspect discounters will

offer it in the mid- to -upper $30 range. This black/ruby/purple-colored wine boasts a terrificperfume of creosote, camphor, charcoal, blackberries, acacia flowers and truffles. Full-bodied andopulent, this is a prodigious effort from the Cotes Catalanes. Even at its full retail price of $43, it

represents a striking bargain. I rated it 95. -Wine Advocate

Puydeval Pays d’Oc 2012Green’s Cash Sale Price:

A distinctive blend crafted by winemaker Jeff Carrel, the Puydeval is in fact based on CabernetFranc, which arguably thrives in the cooler microclimates of the generally hot Languedoc. As

alluded to above, appellation wines are as a rule strictly governed, and this pertains to the choiceof grape varieties as well. Choose to use an unauthorized Bordeaux variety like Mr. Carrel does

here, and the highest quality level is not an option anymore. Nonetheless, the wine has garnered

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something of a reputation, which in tandem point to its Bordeaux characteristics as expressedthrough the south of France – notes of black cherry, raspberries, lavender, anise and tobacco leaf,

rounded out by cedar/vanilla undertones. Hard not to like, in my opinion.

Domaine Laroque Cite de Carcassonne 2013Green’s Cash Sale Price:

Interestingly enough, another Cabernet Franc (this iteration being 100%), but one from the Cite deCarcassonne IGP that surrounds the famous walled city of Carcassonne. Minervois lies to the

northeast, Corbieres to the southeast, yet this wine’s similarity to those southern France stalwartsruns only skin-deep. So is it worthy? Looking the wine up on Wine-Searcher.com brings up the

following points:

1. Critics have scored this as one of the top 5 IGP Cite de Carcassonne wines.2. This is the most sought after wine from the region (as measured by user searches). This wine

has been becoming increasingly desirable over the past year. At $9.99, I think you can decide for yourself…

Amelie Chardonnay 2013

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A bright, crisp Chardonnay, showcasing the ripe climate of the Languedoc-Roussillon region –tropical fruit, red apple, honey & citrus – while being unencumbered by oak. The result is a

precision one usually finds at higher price points. A dynamic French varietal to be enjoyed overthe short-term.

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